Heavy disc harrow BDT 3. Three-row disc harrows BDM

Heavy disc harrow for agricultural work on neglected and plowed lands

Disc harrows are intended for agricultural work on neglected and plowed lands. This equipment does an excellent job of crushing blocks and mulching turfed soils. The working units of this type of agricultural machinery are batteries formed from several rotating disks with a diameter of 400-500 mm. The working elements of the harrow are installed at a certain, so-called angle of attack.

A heavy disc harrow practically does not become clogged with soil and vegetation, but it is not suitable for heavy soils, since the blades of the working elements quickly fail. Heavy diskers perform soil cultivation to a depth of up to 200 mm.

Disc drive device

The working element of this equipment is spherical discs with cutouts that go deep into the soil and crush stubble. One battery consists of a certain number of disks installed on one axis. The sections are mounted on a metal chassis in two rows at a certain angle. The discator batteries, installed closer to the hitch, carry out tillage in the camber mode, and the rear ones - in the stall. For better crushing of soil, the working elements of the rear sections must be offset relative to the front ones. The angle of attack of the batteries is adjustable, if necessary, from 0˚ to 21˚. When working on hard and dry soils, the angles of attack increase, and when cultivating light, moist soils, on the contrary, they decrease.

As the agricultural machinery moves, the working elements, due to their rotation with the blade, cut the soil layer and lift it onto the inner surface of the cutting disk. Afterwards, the soil falls from a certain height and is thrown to the side. Thanks to this, the earth is crushed, partially wrapped and mixed. As the angle of attack increases, the working elements of the harrow penetrate deeper into the soil and crush it better. The harrowing depth is adjusted by setting the required angle and adjusting the force of pressure of the discs on the ground. The required pressure of the working elements on the soil is adjusted by increasing or decreasing the ballast mass or the compression force of the clamping springs.

Advantages of disk drives

In operation, heavy harrows have a number of advantages compared to standard harrows of other types, namely:

a constant harrowing depth is ensured;
complete removal of weeds;
no additional maintenance required;
high-quality soil cultivation.

BDT-3

BDT-3 is designed specifically for harrowing fields after harvesting grain crops, cultivating neglected lands, soil after plowing and in preparation for sowing. Also, this agricultural machinery can be effectively used for peeling stubble and caring for pasture and meadow areas. The equipment is used in almost all agroclimatic zones.

BDT-3 with a processing width of 3.6 m and a hydraulic control system is installed on power units 3 and 4, because On the diskator chassis, using special fasteners, work sections are installed, which consist of cut-out spherical work elements mounted on a common axis. The two front and rear right working sections are equipped with seven discs each, and the rear left one has eight working elements. Discs are cleaned using scraper scrapers.

1-hitch; 2-adjustment screw; 3-pneumatic wheel; 4-chassis; 5-lever; 6-traction; 7-hydraulic cylinders; 8 crank axle; 9-fist; 10-guillemot; 11 working sections.

Adjustment of BDT-3

Uniform deepening of the working elements of all sections is ensured by adjustment using a device for leveling the chassis. The lever connected to the frame is connected to the hitch by an adjustment screw, and the rod is connected to the crank axle knuckle. As a result of rotation of the screw, the lever moves the rod, which turns the axle with the support wheels of the harrow using a fist.

The required harrowing depth is established by changing the angles of attack of the disks by spreading or bringing together the outer ends of the working sections.

When moving to another field, the BDT-3 diskator frame is moved to the transport position using hydraulics, which lowers the wheels.

You can buy this equipment either new, from the manufacturer or dealers who sell agricultural equipment, or already used. By purchasing used equipment and carrying out minor repairs, you can significantly save your money.

Specifications

BDT-7

The BDT-7 harrow, as well as the BDT-3, is used after plowing virgin lands and heavy soils, for cultivating the land after harvesting, loosening, and early spring harrowing to seal up moisture. Also, this agricultural machinery can be used to care for pasture and meadow lands.

The main working units include two additional lifting units and the main frame, a hitch with pneumatic wheels, sections with disks, a ridge cutter, a device for adjusting angles of attack, a hydraulic system, and a mechanism for lifting additional frames. Transportation of equipment is carried out using two pneumatic wheels. Moving equipment to another location must be done with the side frames raised.

On the lower part of the side frames there are 4 sections with working elements (2 in front and 2 in back). The discs are spherical in shape with cutouts. The depth of tillage is adjusted by changing the angles of attack of the working sections.

A heavy disc harrow can be purchased at any specialized agricultural equipment store or on the Internet, where a wide selection of different models is offered.

In anticipation of field work, the article will help to reveal the technical potential of the BDT 3 disc harrow, the photo of which you see, and will also introduce the opinion of the owners of the equipment. The material gives prices for the BDT 3 product and uses video and photographic materials.

Perhaps familiarity with the technical indicators of a harrow will be useful to you in the future. A video about the operation of the BDT 3 disc harrow is at the end of the article.

Purpose and design of the BDT 3 disc harrow

After harvesting grain crops, soil layers are used to develop layers. They are also used for cultivating virgin lands. They cut up the land after plowing and prepare it for the sowing campaign. Possibly effective use for stubble peeling and care of meadows and pastures. Its use is not limited in any way, so the harrow is used in all soil and climatic zones.

The trailed unit in question is used in two positions.

In transport position.
And in working position.

The transition from one position to another is carried out using a hydraulic system, which lowers or raises the structure. The harrow, consisting of four batteries, is designed in the shape of the letter “X”.

Disc harrow BDT 3 technical characteristics

Mounted, with a hydraulic control system, BDT 3, with a working width of 3.6 meters, is aggregated with tractors of the 3rd and 4th classes. Maximum penetration into the top layer of soil is 200 mm. In one hour it can cultivate from 2.5-3 hectares of land.

The angle of attack of the disk batteries is 6 0, 10 0, 14 0, 18 0, respectively. The dimensions of the disc harrow are L/W/H = 4800/3000/1520 mm; tire sizes for transport wheels are 6.5-16 inches. In addition, you should be satisfied with the soil penetration indicators:

When peeling stubble 200 mm.
After plowing 120 mm.
On peat bogs, three passes at 250 mm.

Reviews from owners of the BDT 3 disc harrow

Many owners used disk tillers to till the land in the past. They say that they penetrate deeper into the soil in one pass than with a harrow. But the speed of tillage is slower:

Owners are satisfied with reliable fixation:

angle of attack of disk sections;
side frames of the harrow during transportation.

Price for disc harrow BDT 3

On request, the harrow can be purchased in Russia for RUB 250,000.00. On the secondary market, the cost, depending on the condition and manufacturer, ranges from 175,000.00 - 207,000.00 rubles. The trend of price changes depends on the seasonality of sales and the region. Price fluctuations can reach almost 100,000.00 rubles.

Summing up, we can say that the equipment is reliable and will work for the planned 6 years. Proper use can last much longer. And the possibility of purchasing on lease, or purchasing equipment with deferred payment, gives large farms and farmers the opportunity to efficiently cultivate the soil.

In most cases, ordinary garden or vegetable soil is not enough to create the most comfortable growing conditions for strawberries, since it must have the following qualities:

Sufficient level of fertility.
Lightness of soil, this criterion is best met by loamy or sandy loam soil type.
Waterproof.
Absence of groundwater in the immediate vicinity.
The absence in the soil of fungal spores, various viruses and insects that feed on this crop.
Reduced level of acid composition.

Which soil is suitable and which is not?

Soil for garden strawberries must meet the following parameters:

to be loose;
have a pH close to neutral – 5.5-8;
contain water – 70–90%;
have a high humus content - approximately 3%.

Strawberries do not do well in the following types of soil:

clay;
sandy;
sod-podzolic;
peat;
light gray.

Landing dates

Now let's decide on the timing of planting our seedlings for permanent residence.

In principle, you can plant garden strawberries almost the entire summer season, starting from May and ending in mid-September.

But in order to get a good harvest, it is better to stick to spring and autumn planting.

Many gardeners believe that it is better to plant strawberries in the spring, since the berries will begin to fully bear fruit the next year, and if planted in the fall, only a year later.

Spring planting begins from April 20-30 (in regions with warm climates), and until June 15. Try not to be late with spring planting so that moisture does not leave the soil.

If we plant later than this period, then there is a high probability that the plants will go into winter without a sufficiently developed above-ground part or root system and will not have time to form flower buds.

This means that they either will not survive the cold winter at all, or will waste away for a long time in the spring, coming to their senses.

This is probably where I end the article. In the future, we will talk about the rules for planting garden strawberries and caring for them.

Now watch a few videos with different ways of growing strawberry seedlings from seeds from Yulia Minyaeva. Maybe one of them will be to your liking. I personally liked them all)))

Source

Autumn is considered the most favorable period for planting strawberries in open ground. It is better to choose the middle or end of September for this. The ideal time, since the soil is no longer hot from the scorching summer sun, but has not yet cooled down from the autumn cold. Moreover, before the start of winter there is enough time for the plants to take root and become stronger for the frost.

The taste and aroma of the fruit depends on where the strawberries grow. In sunny areas that have received a moderate amount of moisture, strawberries grow sweeter and more juicy. But in shaded areas it can be small and sour.

Preparation for planting

Before planting the plant, the soil should be treated in advance:

dig up;
apply the required fertilizers;
water thoroughly.

Every point is important - there are no trifles in such a matter. Only proper soil preparation allows you to expect a bountiful harvest.

If planting is planned in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall. If you plan to propagate strawberries in September, dig up the soil at least half a month before the event. Autumn planting is recommended to be done in August-September, when it is still warm and the ground temperature is suitable for the whiskers to take root.

Digging destroys weed roots. This will allow the strawberries to develop better. The digging depth is the bayonet of a shovel. Simultaneously with this procedure, humus, peat, and mineral fertilizers are added.

Strawberry yields are affected by crops previously grown in this area. Areas where peas, onions or garlic, greens and beans, radishes or carrots grew are suitable. It is not advisable to plan to plant a plant after tomatoes, cucumbers, potatoes and cabbage, as well as zucchini.

It is important to mark the area in advance and determine the distance between the beds. Strawberries cannot be planted closely; it is necessary to ensure a distance of 60 cm between each row; within the row between the bushes, a gap of 20 cm must be left. By performing such simple manipulations, you can significantly improve the efficiency of the soil, positively affecting the yield.

Soil fertility level for strawberry crop

Land that contains 3% humus is the most fertile soil option for growing strawberries; it is in this soil that it will feel most comfortable and will begin to consistently produce large volumes of berries.

The humus content indicator is necessary to maintain the optimal amount of moisture in the soil, so if the soil is not fertile enough, then this situation can be corrected as follows:

Add a significant amount of mullein in compliance with the timing and technology of this process, which will increase the humus content.
Take comprehensive measures to prepare the bed for planting strawberries; the main stages are discussed in detail above.
Plant plants that change the chemical composition of the soil, making it noble.
Purchasing land of the required quality, which is a rather expensive option.

Soil for planting strawberries

The composition of the soil for strawberries must meet certain requirements. For abundant fruiting, the soil must have good air permeability, be loose and easy to work. It should absorb water well and warm up.

The best option would be soil with a high content of black soil, which is not common. Therefore, the first priority for a gardener is to optimize the land already available.

Choosing a place for strawberries

Choosing a place to plant our favorite berries is a very important matter, since both the further development of the plant and its productivity depend on it.

So you and I will have to, as they say, “measure seven times and cut only once.”

Garden strawberries prefer to grow in well-lit areas, which are also protected from the winds.

Of course, it can grow in the shade, but then the strawberries will stretch out and the leaves will grow more actively, not the berries.

The berries will take longer to ripen, and they will taste much more sour, and much more work will have to be put into growing them.

To protect garden strawberry plantings from the wind, we plant them under the protection of buildings or shrubs or fruit trees. If this is not possible, then you can create a wind screen from sunflowers or corn by planting them in two rows.

Strawberries prefer to grow on a flat surface or on a slight slope. It is best if the slope faces southwest.

In this case, it is necessary to plant berries in the middle or lower part of the slope, but not in the upper part. We place the rows of garden strawberries across the slope in order, firstly, to save melt water in the spring, and secondly, to save the top arable layer of soil from being washed away.

Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. Our favorite loves to grow in neutral or slightly acidic soils. If it is very acidic, be sure to lime it.

The best option is to carry out liming a year before planting garden strawberries (still under the previous crop) or, in extreme cases, two months before planting.

By adding lime to the soil just before planting, you will greatly inhibit the growth of the plant's roots. And therefore, garden strawberry seedlings will take quite a long time to take root.

Strawberries also do not like low places with groundwater levels less than 0.8-1.0 m.

If you don’t have higher places on your site, then plant strawberries in raised beds at least 25-30 cm high.

Since strawberries produce the best harvest in the second and third years after planting, it is recommended to replant them every 3-4 (at most 4-5 years) to a new location.

And only after 2-3 years will it be possible to return the berries to their previous place of residence.

Proper crop rotation is also very important for strawberries: the berry grows well after garlic, onions, radishes, parsley and other greens, carrots, legumes, green manure; It is not advisable to plant after nightshades and pumpkins, as there is a possibility of infection by root rot or nematodes.

And one more piece of advice, place your strawberry meadow away from raspberry and plum plantings, due to the fact that there is a danger of losing half the harvest from the raspberry-strawberry weevil.

Well-lit places where beans, beets, carrots, lettuce, garlic, radishes, celery, and dill previously grew are ideal for strawberry bushes. But in areas after peppers and potatoes, cabbage and eggplants, it is not recommended to plant strawberries.

Any type of soil except wetlands can be suitable for this crop. A slightly larger harvest and larger berries grow on loam, black soil, and sandy loam soils. An ideal harvest can be obtained even on heavy soils by adding peat, humus, manure or ash. It is desirable that the soil has an acidity in the range of – 5.5 – 6.5 pH.

Optimizing soil for strawberries

The most suitable soil composition for strawberries is sandy loam or loamy soil. These types of soils have many positive qualities:

ease of processing;
sufficient nutritional value;
good breathability;
excellent absorbent qualities;
They warm up quickly and cool down slowly.

The structures of sandy loam and loamy soil do not need improvement. When preparing a site for planting on such soils, it is necessary to replenish the supply of nutrients through the addition of organic matter (half a bucket per square meter) and complex mineral fertilizers.

The most fertile and potentially promising soil for growing strawberries is chernozem soil, but, unfortunately, it is quite rare in garden plots.

The structure of poor sandy, heavy clay soil can be improved and optimized to acceptable requirements. When preparing beds for planting on clay soils, the following should be added:

peat;
coarse river sand;
lime;
ash.

Peat and sand additives will act as a leavening agent and increase the water-absorbing qualities of the soil. Adding lime or ash will neutralize the additional acidity that peat will introduce and increase the air permeability of the soil.

Helpful information! For each bucket of peat added, add 2 tablespoons of dolomite flour or a glass of ash.

The addition of rotted sawdust will improve soil looseness:

fresh sawdust is moistened with a urea solution (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water);
Dolomite flour or ash is added to the moistened composition, mixed and left for several days in a waterproof bag in a warm place.

The sawdust prepared in this way is plowed into the soil during the autumn digging of the site. Horse manure is ideal as an organic fertilizer for clay soil.

Horse manure heats up better, quickly releases heat, has fewer weed seeds and is practically not affected by various pathogenic microflora characteristic of manure.

Sandy soils are the least fertile, so before organizing a strawberry bed, you should add peat, compost, humus, clay or drill flour. In order to create a fertile bed in an area with sandy soil, from which you can quickly get a bountiful harvest, you can use the following method:

Fence the area where the ridge will be located.
Lay the bottom of the future bed with a layer of clay.
Pour 30–40 cm of fertile (sandy loam, loamy, chernozem) soil on top of the clay.

The costs of creating an artificial garden bed will be repaid with a high strawberry harvest.

The measures taken will improve the structure of the soil, increase its nutritional value, and ensure sufficient air and moisture permeability.

Soil acidity

Absolutely accurate soil acidity on a site can be determined using laboratory analysis. At home, you can also set this indicator, and in different ways. Of course, such data will not be absolutely accurate, but it will help determine the necessary measures to optimize acidity.

Table vinegar can help determine the acidity of the soil. You need to take a handful of earth and drop acetic acid on it. If small bubbles appear on the surface of the soil being tested, it means there is a sufficient amount of lime in it, which quenches the vinegar, that is, the soil has neutral acidity. If there is no reaction, we can conclude that the soil in the area is acidified.

The presence of a reaction between vinegar and soil indicates its neutrality (photo on the left); acidic soil does not give such a reaction (photo on the right)

Another way is to monitor acidity indicators, which can be wild plants in the area that have spread naturally and are large in number.

Table: plants-indicators of soil acidity

Adjusting soil acidity for strawberries

Garden strawberries prefer slightly acidic and neutral soils. To make acidic soil useful for planting strawberries, it needs to be limed. For liming, river tuff, dolomite flour, marl, ground limestone, and fluff are used.

Table: lime application dosages for different soil types

Note! Wood ash is an effective way to reduce soil acidity. In addition to the deoxidation effect, ash is a source of calcium, potassium, phosphorus and many trace elements.

Wood ash is used for liming the soil, as it contains 18–36% calcium carbonate

Soil disinfection

To ensure that efforts to grow strawberries are not negated by diseases and pests, when preparing a site for planting strawberries, it is recommended to carry out a soil disinfection procedure. It is especially important for closed beds, hotbeds and greenhouses, where comfortable conditions can be created not only for cultivated plants, but also for pathogens.

There are various ways to disinfect soil:

chemical;
agrotechnical;
biological.

Important! When planning a soil disinfection procedure, you should pay attention to those problems and diseases that are inherent in your weather conditions and type of site.

Chemical method

The most radical method of disinfection is chemical. It reliably and quickly destroys pathogens. The disadvantage of this method is the concomitant destruction of beneficial microorganisms, so it should be used once and in the presence of complex problems. The most suitable preparations for disinfecting soil for planting strawberries are:

fungicide TMTD. To process 1 sq. meter use 60 g of powder. The drug reliably destroys pathogens found in the soil;
copper sulfate. To treat the soil, 50 g of the substance is dissolved in a bucket of water and spilled on the ground. The drug is effective for treating soil in greenhouses and greenhouses. An overdose of the drug leads to the fact that the soil loses its breathability and the number of beneficial microorganisms in it decreases. It is recommended to treat the soil with copper-containing preparations no more than once every 5 years.

To treat the soil against fungal diseases, mold and some pests, use a 0.5% - 1% solution of copper sulfate (50-100 g per 10 liters of water)

Biological method

The use of microbiological preparations gives many positive results:

the number of pathogens in the soil decreases;
When growing the same crops on a plot, soil fatigue is observed. Biological fungicides can neutralize this phenomenon;
the soil is populated with beneficial microflora.

The most effective biological fungicides for preparing soil for strawberries are:

Fitosporin;
Trichodermin;
Alirin B;
Baikal EM-1.

Biological fungicides are characterized by low toxicity and high efficiency

Note! Biological and chemical preparations cannot be used simultaneously to disinfect soil. The minimum interval between applications should be at least 2 weeks.

Agrotechnical method

Properly organized agrotechnical measures help prevent the emergence and spread of diseases and pests and maintain soil fertility. Properly organized crop rotation can help with this. The best predecessors for strawberries are:

beet;
beans;
garlic;
peas;
dill;
parsley.

Harmful predecessors for garden strawberries include tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, zucchini and cucumbers. This is due to the fact that these crops have a number of common pests with strawberries and are susceptible to the same diseases, the pathogens of which infect the soil.

Green manures are green fertilizers specially grown to restore the soil after the growing season, enrich it with nitrogen and microelements and inhibit the growth of weeds.

To disinfect, you can thermally treat the soil by pouring boiling water on it or treating it with steam. This method is very effective, but due to the difficulty of doing it at home, it can be used to disinfect a small amount of soil (for example, for planting seedlings) or disinfect a small ridge.

Note! Planting plants such as marigolds and marigolds on the ridges adjacent to strawberries helps improve the condition of the soil and fight against pathogens.

Mulching strawberry plantings

Mulching strawberry plantings not only protects the crop from pests, weeds and diseases, but also improves the soil structure and increases its fertility. Mulch for crops can be various materials:

Hay, straw or grass are useful because after they rot, active reproduction of hay bacillus occurs in the soil. This beneficial microorganism prevents the spread of fungal infections;
black spunbond ensures rapid heating of the soil, prevents drying out and washing out, and protects it from weeds. To prevent the soil from overheating on hot summer days, it is recommended to spread grass or straw on top of the agrofibre;
needles, cones, branches of coniferous trees, when rotting, nourish the soil, make it looser, and prevent the spread of diseases such as gray rot. It should be borne in mind that this mulch acidifies the soil, so it should be used with caution on soils prone to acidity;
sawdust and shavings retain moisture well and prevent the development of weeds. But when decomposed, these materials acidify the soil and take nitrogen from it. Therefore, beds with such a mulch coating require additional fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as regular application of ash or dolomite flour to prevent soil acidification;
mulch made from humus and compost prevents overheating, hypothermia, drying out, weathering and depletion of the soil. But a layer of mulch made from these materials requires constant updating, as it is quickly processed by soil microorganisms.

Photo gallery: mulching strawberries

Hay and straw must first be thoroughly shaken and dried in the sun, because there is a high probability of germination of weed seeds remaining in them.

Agrofibre ensures regulation of the optimal amount of moisture in the soil and also prevents the growth of weeds

Mulching strawberries with sawdust is advantageous because this material is able to retain moisture for a long time and has a good effect on the soil structure

Rotting. Pine needle mulch improves the soil structure and nourishes it with nutrients

Humus improves any soil: in sandy soil it retains water and nutrients in the root zone, in heavy clay soil it helps make it loose, airy, and nutritious.

Video: preparing the soil for planting strawberries

In addition to the above procedures, we must not forget about the destruction of last year’s plant residues, which may contain dangerous pathogens, about deep autumn digging of the soil with the removal of weed roots and discovered larvae, about recommendations for replacing the top soil layer in greenhouses and greenhouses, because it is in it that harmful substances are concentrated. pathogens and organisms capable of causing infectious diseases. You should not spare time for high-quality soil preparation for planting strawberries. A high-quality crop grown will be a real reward for all the efforts and efforts spent on creating favorable conditions for strawberries.

Soil composition

Below we consider various soil options and the possibility of strawberries growing in them, depending on the composition of the soil:

Humus soil is characterized by a high level of various organic compounds. This is achieved after decomposition of manure or any type of vegetation in the soil.
Turf soil, especially the loamy type, is also well suited for growing strawberry crops. It contains a sufficient amount of organic compounds, while it has a fairly low level of acidity. However, such soil is too heavy, so it is imperative to add an additive in the form of raising agents; this is its only drawback.
Sawdust is the most natural soil loosening agent; it can be added to absolutely any soil if its structure is too heavy. If they did not have time to rot to the required condition, then it is recommended to first carry out the procedure of wetting with urea.
Adding coarse-grained river sand to the soil is another effective measure that allows you to loosen the soil well. However, its volumes should be insignificant and amount to no more than a tenth of all soil components. In addition, the sand must first undergo a heat treatment procedure; for this, it can be placed in the oven. Such measures are necessary because it often contains bacteria or microorganisms that can have a detrimental effect on strawberries.
Adding peat to the soil will allow it to retain the necessary amounts of moisture, which will make the soil very close to the ideal option. However, this should not be abused, since peat promotes the reproduction and maintenance of the vital functions of many organisms, the proximity of which can negatively affect the condition of the crop being grown. In addition, it increases the overall acidity level of the earth, so it is recommended to add at least 1 cup of wood ash to a bucket of peat or add a few tablespoons of dolomite flour.
Adding vermiculite to the soil is not the most common practice, but it can be used in combination with fertilizing the soil with various complexes of slow-acting mineral fertilizers to enhance their effectiveness.

Peat for strawberries

Strawberry leaves turn yellow: what to do

Peat is an organic type of fertilizer, which is the decomposed remains of animals and plants. It contains nitrogen and sulfur, which benefit any crop. For strawberries, this component is required only when grown on sandy and clay soils.

The use of peat for garden strawberries is possible both in autumn and spring. In its pure form, the product is used only for mulching. It must first be ventilated and mixed with sawdust. To reduce acidity, you need to add wood ash to the mixture. When adding peat to the soil, you will need to make compost. To do this, you need to make a compost heap, where you alternate layers of the substance with manure. You can supplement the composition with green mass and kitchen waste. From time to time the pile should be watered with superphosphate solution.

Peat for strawberries

You can fertilize strawberries with ready-made peat compost using two methods:

During planting, place a layer 5 cm high in the prepared holes.
While cultivating the soil, scatter the mixture (30 kg per 1 m2) and dig it up.

Advice! If it is not possible to improve the composition of the soil for strawberries with peat compost, you can purchase peat-based products in specialized stores.

Thanks to peat fertilization, the soil structure is significantly improved, the growth of strawberries and the root system is activated, and the number of berries increases.

Quantity and types of fertilizing

Their type depends on what soil is chosen for planting:

Loamy. You can add a mixture of humus and compost or replace such fertilizers with nitroammophos.
Sandy. For 1 sq.m., 2.5 buckets of humus or manure are enough.
Turf. It is better to fertilize with sawdust.
Heavy clayey. Fertilize with a mixture of manure and river sand.
Soils with low acidity. Add dolomite flour, ash or limestone flour.
Alkaline. Peat and rotted fallen leaves work well.

At the same time, it must be added before digging the soil so that it mixes well with the soil. But it all depends on the level of soil fertility. A mandatory procedure is the complete removal of weeds and remnants of the previous harvest from the selected area. On the day of planting, carry out loosening. It is better to start general soil preparation 4-6 weeks before the intended planting.

Mulching the soil

Mulching strawberry beds is a necessary condition for growing a good harvest of berries. It is necessary to:

The following is used as mulching material:

straw or grass clippings;
black agrofibre;
coniferous litter or branches of coniferous trees;
shavings and sawdust;
humus and compost.

Photo gallery: mulching strawberry beds

When straw or mown grass rots, hay bacillus develops, killing fungal infections

Agrofibre protects the soil from drying out and weeds

Needles increase the acidity of the soil, so use it with caution on acidic soils.

Rotten shavings and sawdust acidify the soil, so you need to periodically add ash or dolomite flour

Humus or compost as mulch requires frequent renewal, as it is quickly processed by microorganisms

Plant care

How to properly care for strawberries?

The most important work in caring for strawberries is weeding, and here, plantings in a continuous carpet are in the best position. They are less clogged with perennial weeds, such as wheatgrass and velvet, because they are dug up more often. At the very beginning of spring, before green leaves appear, we thoroughly clean the plantation of dried leaves. We burn the remains of the plants. Cover the exposed plant roots with soil, pressing it around the plants.
Early loosening of the soil causes rapid growth of strawberries and increases yield by 30-40%. But blooming early, strawberries can be subject to late frosts. So, with very early loosening, you will have to take care of covering the plantation with film.
If it is not possible to cover the entire surface, then delay the development of plants on part of it by late loosening. This somewhat reduces the berry yield, but prevents the plantation from late frosts.

Familiarization with the peculiarities of the proximity of strawberries to various plants and other cultivated crops is one of the initial stages of preparation, which starts at least a year before planting.

There are biological, agrotechnical and chemical methods of neutralization. The biological method allows not only to neutralize pathogenic microorganisms, but also not to harm beneficial microflora. Various drugs are used: “Fitolavin-300”; "Acrobat-MC".

Strawberries grow well and produce abundant harvests after legumes, beets, dill, and garlic.

Preparation of seedlings

Both material purchased from a special nursery and material collected at home are suitable as planting material. A good healthy seedling has at least 3 healthy leaves, and the average root length is about 10 cm.

If some roots are very long, they can be trimmed. In order for the bush to quickly take root and be less susceptible to damage by pests and diseases, the roots of each plant, before planting, must be kept in a mixture of humus and soil, to which water and growth stimulants have been added: Epin or Micras.

So, we have chosen a place to plant strawberries and prepared the soil in advance.

Now let’s decide what varieties we will plant. First of all, try to choose local, zoned varieties of strawberries that have already proven themselves in your climatic conditions.

In order to have these magnificent aromatic berries on your table for as long as possible, I advise you to purchase a few early-ripening seedlings (10%), more mid-early and medium-sized ones (60%), as well as late-ripening varieties (30%).

Don’t forget to plant remontant varieties, both wild strawberries and garden strawberries. And then you will have berries from spring until frost.

We buy seedlings

Pay great attention to the quality of planting material, because this is the basis of all your future harvests.

Of course, it is best to purchase seedlings from trusted nurseries, where they will be strong and healthy.

It is advisable not to buy from the market or from strangers, as there is a risk of purchasing weakened, infected plants or even seedlings of weedy strawberry varieties, which we discussed in the previous article.

What should you pay attention to first of all when buying strawberry seedlings:

These should be stocky annual plants with a rosette with 3-5 leaves.
The root system is well developed and no shorter than 5 cm.
The apical bud (heart) is strong and well developed.
The diameter of the horn is at least 1.5 cm.
Seedlings should not be elongated, overgrown or, conversely, frail.

Usually we plant strawberry seedlings with one horn, but if you see two-horned seedlings on sale, then take them without hesitation, as you are incredibly lucky.

In order to save the family budget, you can not buy a large number of seedlings, but purchase several bushes of the varieties you like and propagate them yourself.

To do this, we plant the purchased seedlings in a specially designated small area (school) and surround them with care and attention.

We remove the flower stalks in a timely manner, carefully arrange the emerging lashes of mustache and help the small rosettes take root in the soil by making holes for them and watering them.

This way we can get up to 40-50 seedlings from each mother plant.

If this is not your first time planting garden strawberries and you already have a plantation of this berry, then for new plantings you can use your own planting material.

When picking berries, look for the strongest and most productive bushes (no older than 2 years) with berries of approximately the same size and without any diseases.

From them we will later take the mustache for planting a new plot of garden strawberries. Whiskers usually start growing in mid-summer.

When our marked bushes bear fruit, the process of formation of mustaches and rooting of rosettes will begin.

Here it is necessary, without delaying the matter, to select the most powerful sockets of the first order (at least the second).

As a rule, weaker bushes grow from rosettes of the following orders. Keep in mind that young plants produce tendrils somewhat earlier than fruiting ones.

Attention! One more nuance when selecting rosettes for planting. It turns out that not all young strawberry rosettes are capable of bearing fruit. Conventionally, they can be divided into “girls” and “boys”.

So, “girls” usually give an excellent harvest, but “boys” will leave you without it. Such bushes produce many tendrils, intertwining the entire garden bed if they are not trimmed in time.

How can you tell which is which? Firstly, for planting, take only the rosette closest to the mother bush; secondly, “girls differ from “boys” in having a more powerful rosette of leaves.

But it is much easier to separate the “boys” from the “girls” during spring planting. In spring, all “male individuals” have only two leaves, while “girls” have three.

If large-fruited garden strawberries are best propagated using tendrils, then seedlings of small-fruited remontant strawberries can be perfectly grown from seeds.

And although this is a rather labor-intensive and troublesome process, the result is worth the effort and time.

We usually sow strawberry seeds in March. If you want to get berries this year, then it is better to sow earlier - in early February.

This, of course, will create additional troubles: creating the required temperature conditions, supplementary lighting, and constructing shelters for early planting of seedlings.

We sow the seeds in boxes about 8 cm high, which we fill with loose soil. We level the soil, water it and scatter the seeds over its surface.

Strawberry seeds are very small, so you don’t need to sprinkle them with soil on top, but sprinkle them lightly with water from a spray bottle and they will “draw” a little into the ground. This will be enough for them to germinate.

Or you can carefully sprinkle them with sand on top through a sieve, about 1 mm.

After sowing, we cover the boxes with film or glass, put them in a warm, dark place and wait for shoots.

Seeds can germinate (depending on the variety) after 10 days, and after 30, or even after 45 days. Therefore, you need to be patient and not fall into despair when the seeds do not germinate for a long time.

You can also use plastic boxes with lids for planting strawberry seeds.

When 2-3 true leaves appear, we begin planting the plants in separate pots.

If you are not in a hurry to get the berries as early as possible, then perhaps the most favorable period for sowing strawberry seeds is from the beginning of May to the end of June.

By planting seeds at this time, we will get excellent seedlings in the first year without much hassle.

I plan to describe all the methods of propagating our beloved strawberries in more detail in a separate article.

Composition of the earth

Strawberries are not a picky plant. However, when planting, pay special attention to the soil in which you intend to plant it.

Strawberries do not tolerate acidic, brackish and calcareous soils. It can grow in any soil, but loamy and sandy loam soils are especially optimal for its growth. Complex fertilizers are added to such soils to saturate them with the minerals necessary for growth.

Basic mistakes

Adding too much peat. It is certainly beneficial for this plant, but should only be used in moderation to maintain water balance. Otherwise, uncontrolled proliferation of microorganisms and changes in the chemical composition will begin in the soil, which will deprive the crop or lead to the complete death of the crop.
Growing in clay soil. It is better to find other places for planting strawberries, since such land is very difficult to improve even by artificial means; this is one of the most unsuccessful options.
Adding excess sand. This procedure must be carried out in full accordance with the established dosages, otherwise the root system will be subject to constant drying out and overheating, and it is the most vulnerable part of the plant.

Unsuitable soil for berries

The soil for the plant should be chosen as carefully as possible. The worst options for it are sand or clay options. It is too poor in terms of nutrients. In addition, the soil for planting strawberries of the following types is not suitable:

alkaline or acidic;
soil on peat or sod-podzolic option;
if there is a gray tint.

Due to a lack of nutrients, the berry will not fully develop in such soil. The berry does not like acidic soil due to its special composition, which is harmful to the root system. Despite the fact that, according to gardeners, black soil is considered the most nutritious soil, there are a number of other criteria for choosing soil.

For example, the soil for garden strawberries may differ by several units from the required requirements. In this case, the composition can be artificially adjusted.

Landing rules

To speed up the process of rooting the crop, it is recommended to plant strawberries in the evening, or at another time, after waiting for a cloudy day. To plant, dig a furrow, which is dug under a stretched rope. The gap between the grooves should be at least 65 and no more than 85 cm (it all depends on the variety). There is about 20 cm between the plants themselves.

If you use your own planting material when planting, it must be healthy, use bushes no older than 2-3 years, from which they distinguished themselves with a high yield the previous year. To obtain high-quality planting material, it is recommended to remove flower stalks, because gardeners insist that in the same season you can get either a rich harvest or high-quality healthy seedlings from a strawberry bush.

In order to obtain planting material, you need to dig the first rosettes on the strawberry mustache into cups. It is from the first rosettes that you will get strong and healthy plants. By correctly calculating the time of planting, you can get ready-made seedlings in cups, when planting which you will only need to remove excess leaves (there should not be more than 3-4 of them). Planting bushes is carried out using the method already described.

Every 3-4 years it is worth renewing strawberry plantations, since this is the most optimal period, after which productivity indicators sharply decrease. And it’s very easy to grow young seedlings yourself.

Gardeners prefer this method because of the low costs, which will help increase the berry yield by almost half. Agrofibre is often used when planting in northern regions, where winters are long and frosts are frequent.

Fertilizer dosages

The dosage table will help you navigate the complex set of recommendations:

Sandy and sandy loam 1.5 kg. per 10 m2
Clay and loam 14 kg. per 10 m2

If you need to reduce acidity, you can use wood ash. It is not recommended to use an alkaline environment, because it can be destructive for plants, therefore, in addition to deoxidation, ash is a source of phosphorus, calcium and other vitamins.

These tips will help you properly prepare the soil for planting. And also understand what kind of soil strawberries like.

It is recommended to have the soil from the site tested to determine its acidity level. This will allow you to choose the right fertilizers, since it is quite easy to change the chemical composition of both acidic and alkaline soils.
When growing in a swampy place or with shallow groundwater, it is necessary to build fairly high ridges or hills on which this crop will grow.
To effectively get rid of weeds at the preparation stage, you need to use herbicides or stretch black film over the bed; several weeks will be enough to completely destroy all unnecessary plants.

Experienced gardeners know that different crops can change the condition of the soil. Therefore, it is important to choose the right landing site taking this factor into account. Land for strawberries can be selected only after planting certain plants. Strawberries will feel most comfortable in the garden beds if the following types of crops grow on them:

radish or legume family;
mustard or garlic;
greens in any form or salad leaves.

With the help of early plants of the above type, you can sufficiently prepare the soil for strawberries. Therefore, when wondering what kind of soil strawberries like, it is worth knowing the plants that negatively affect the soil. First of all, these are pumpkins and nightshades; it is not recommended to plant strawberries under them.

Plant care

Tips for growing strawberries: soil preparation, watering, planting and care

The most common berry crop in our gardens is strawberries. It also causes the most controversy due to the methods of setting up plantations. I will give several ways to plant plantations.

The main task of gardeners when planting is to provide all the necessary conditions for rapid rooting. To get a healthy plant you need proper care.

The first half month after planting in open ground, strawberry seedlings require regular, abundant watering at least 2 times a week. This event is held subject to no rain. After making sure that the young rosettes have taken root, watering is gradually reduced. But the soil should not dry out. It is better to water in the morning and use settled water.

Top dressing

Strawberries really like additional fertilizing, but in the fall, after planting, fertilizers will not be appropriate (except for fertilizing the soil before planting). Already in the spring, young plants are watered several times with mullein infusion.

Mulching

It will not be needed if the strawberries are planted under agrofibre. Otherwise, mulching is carried out after planting, using humus or peat. Sawdust, pine needles and pine cones can be considered an ideal organic mulching product that will not only protect strawberries from various damage, but also become a mineral complex.

Trimming

It is not advisable to trim young leaves in the fall immediately after planting. The exception is when, after transplantation, a large number of mustaches or peduncles are formed. If this is not done in a timely manner, they will simply drain all the strength from the young plant.

To ensure that the top layer of soil near newly planted bushes does not become a “home” for pests, it must be processed in a timely manner. During this period, even the use of chemicals is allowed, since harvesting is not planned for the next six months.

Gardeners consider Karbofos one of the most popular preparations. The solution is very easy to use: heat it to at least 32°C and water the selected area, before thoroughly loosening the soil. For the best effect, create a greenhouse effect - cover the treated area with film for 2-3 hours.

Prevention against pathogens of strawberry diseases that may appear in the spring can be done with fungicides and preparations that contain copper.

Perlite for strawberries

Perlite is a volcanic rock formed by hydration. To obtain a porous material used in agricultural technology, the rock is heated. Then they are crushed and used for growing various crops.

The material significantly improves the soil structure, retains moisture and prevents the formation of crust on the soil surface. The use of the additive can be aimed at different purposes:

the large fraction is used as drainage;
covering the top layer of soil prevents mold;
storage of bulbs and tubers;
good material for germinating seeds.

As you know, not only open ground is used for growing strawberries. You can do this in a greenhouse or at home, where a pot is used instead of the usual bed. Recently, the Dutch method of growing strawberries has become popular. This method allows you to harvest year-round, does not require special investments and has many more advantages.

Perlite for strawberries

For cultivation, plastic bags or plastic containers are used, which are filled with perlite mixed with peat. This composition absorbs moisture and releases it only when necessary. Place the bags on the greenhouse racks at intervals of 50 cm.

In addition, perlite is good to add to soil for growing at home. Here it is also important to decide what kind of land is needed for strawberries. It is advisable to make the composition yourself, using forest soil, high-moor peat, perlite, humus and fine sand.

Note! To grow strawberry seedlings at home, you should not take soil from the garden, as it may initially be infected with a nematode.

Growing strawberries: planting methods

We plant strawberries as early as possible, as soon as we manage to get the first seedlings, that is, in mid-July. A berry planted at this time will produce a harvest the following year.

Single-line strawberry planting

With this method, the distance between rows is 70 cm, between plants in a row from 15 to 30 cm
In the second half of summer, we move the tendrils from the row-spacings of young strawberry plantings into rows with a rake - this helps to expand and thicken the rows with the formation of a strip of plants up to 40 cm wide
In the area of fruiting strawberries, we remove the weeds as they appear.

Formation of strawberry plantation in 2 rows

The distance between the lines with this planting is 30-40 cm, the next two lines are planted after 70 cm
In waterlogged areas, strawberries should be grown in beds 15-20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide. In such beds we make two rows of plants at a distance of 40-50 cm

How to plant strawberries in a continuous carpet?

With this method, mother plants are planted every 1-1.2 m
Newly growing plants fill the entire space
On such plantations we leave narrow paths for harvesting and caring for the berry plantation.
This planting allows you to get a harvest within 2 years.
After this we replant the plantation

This method is especially popular. What's good about it? It allows you to get the largest yields of berries, but relatively small ones. However, reducing the size of the fruits does not affect their taste, and even improves them somewhat. Even in the leanest years for strawberries, a good harvest always ripens. The berry plant has to be replanted more often, but the high yield and relatively less work on caring for the plantings justify the labor costs of replanting .

What else do you need to know?

When preparing the beds in the fall, add 8 kg of compost or manure, potassium salt (25 g), superphosphate (60 g) and potassium chloride (15 g) to the soil.

If you prepare the soil just a week before planting, add 6 kg of humus or 8 kg of rotted compost, as well as 25 g of potassium sulfate. The values provided are calculated per square meter of soil.

Whatever the soil, to grow strong plants, be sure to add ash to the soil a couple of weeks before planting. It will become both an additional fertilizer and will disinfect the soil. The fruits are clean and of high quality and pure. Before planting, water the bed with water - a bucket for every square meter.

Preparing for winter

Young, newly transplanted plants, which have not yet strengthened the root system, especially need to be prepared for the winter period. To protect plants from freezing, the top of the soil should be mulched with a layer of straw or fallen leaves. You can also replace them with corn stalks, sawdust, spruce branches, or peat.

Watering is carried out with a special nutrient solution by drip. In this case, seedlings are planted not only in open soil, but also in special small pots.

Plants should not be planted closer than 20 cm from each other. When growing in this way, constant moderate watering and good drainage are considered a prerequisite.

Providing your family with a rich harvest of strawberries from your garden is very simple - you just need to follow simple rules for planting and caring for berry bushes.

Do-it-yourself flowerbeds and beds for strawberries

When planting strawberries in the garden, a single-line or multi-line planting scheme is used. Vigorous bushes are planted at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other, low-growing varieties - 20 cm. The row spacing is left wide – 70 cm.

You can plant strawberries on beautifully decorated beds. To save space, tiered beds are practiced. Let's look at the design of some of them.

Tiered beds made of stone

Tiered beds made of stone can be made of any shape:

round;
square;
triangular;
rectangular.

It is good to grow hanging varieties of strawberries in tiered beds. First of all, when constructing a ridge, the area is leveled. Preparing natural stone:

limestone;
sandstone;
diabase.

Markings of the future ridge are made on the ground. A trench 30-40 cm deep is dug along the perimeter. Fill it to 2/3 of the height with crushed stone, 1/3 with sand, and compact it. Lay out a wall of natural stone. Use cement mortar for bonding or use dry masonry technology.

Mark the contours of the 2nd and 3rd tiers. Each subsequent one should be narrower than the previous one. Lay out the walls for the 2nd and 3rd tiers. The height of each subsequent tier should be higher than the previous one.

Fill the ridge with fertile soil after the cement has dried. You can plant strawberries. The advantage of this ridge:

decorative look ridges, can serve as a garden decoration;
good drainage;
the ridge is filled with clean, fertile soil, which reduces the likelihood of illness;
for strawberries easy to care for.

It will take time to build the ridge. Its production is quite labor-intensive.

Multi-tiered beds made of wooden boards

A simple solution is a square, multi-tiered bed made of wooden boards. To make it you need planed, edged pine boards with a cross-section of 30×140 mm. To connect the corners - bars 50x50 mm or 40x40 mm.

Mark the dimensions of the first tier. Assemble the bottom box. The boards in the corners are fixed to the bars with self-tapping screws. The entire area of the first tier is filled with fertile soil and compacted. The following boxes are made similarly, but smaller in size. The width for landing should be at least 35 cm.

Advantages of flowerbed design:

saving places;
receipt per unit area bigger harvest;
strawberries suffer less from infections and pests;
multi-tiered ridge made of boards - decorative garden element.

Disadvantages of the multi-tiered planting method:

in cold climates requires shelter for the winter;
in hot weather, frequent watering is needed, the ground dries out quickly.

Beds made from tires

Is it possible on an area of 1.2 sq. m of your garden plot to plant 120 strawberry bushes? It turns out it is possible. To construct such a vertical ridge you will need 8 old tires and a plastic pipe with holes made in it for irrigation (diameter 5.5 mm).

The diameter of the pipe must match the diameter of the irrigation hose or adapter. Prepare fertile land. Choose a sunny place.

In each tire, cut from 12 to 16 holes measuring 6x10 cm around the circumference. Tires are stacked alternately on top of each other.

Plant strawberry bushes in the tire holes. Cover the roots tightly with soil. Pour through the slits. Install the pipe in the center. Its height should be slightly greater than the height of the ridge. Place an irrigation hose onto the pipe.

The advantages of such a ridge:

saving places;
absence weed;
convenient to water and care;
clean berries, don't get sick.

There are also disadvantages. To prevent strawberries from freezing in winter, you will have to pack the ridge in several layers (straw, reeds, insulation).

Slate beds

The slate remaining after construction can be used to build a bed for strawberries. If you have a polycarbonate greenhouse, solve two problems at once:

insulate greenhouse around the perimeter;
build comfortable ridge.

Dig a trench in the ground. Its depth is 25-35 cm. Cut slate 70 cm high. Place cut branches and plant debris at the bottom of the trench. You can add wood ash there. Cover the ridge with fertile soil consisting of garden soil, humus, peat, and sand.

The advantages of such a ridge:

convenient to water and care for strawberries;
moisture is well retained in the soil;
spring earth warms up quickly.

Slate fencing is classified as a low-ecological structure. Its appearance is not aesthetic.

Watering

Soil moisture is the primary condition when planting strawberries. When planting bushes, the soil should be close to the absolute value of humidity, but at the same time moisture-permeable. This level can be achieved with daily watering. The best alternative is considered to be the drip irrigation method, which significantly simplifies the watering process.

During the period when the leaves of the plant are actively growing, the rate of moisture decreases to a considerable extent, but does not stop.

An important point is to prevent the soil from drying out and becoming overly moist.

Over-dried soil will lead to a poor harvest, and too much water will lead to the development of pathogenic microorganisms.

It is recommended to control the level of soil moisture throughout the entire period of strawberry growth and development. To do this, you can use moisture meters to accurately measure the water level.

If the ground is excessively moist, it is wise to drain it.

Common problems with fall planting

an incorrectly selected area can cause the bushes to be damaged by pests and diseases, as well as poor yields;
Excess moisture can cause fungus damage to the bushes or rotting of the root system. If you do not take care of covering or mulching your strawberries in a timely manner, the plants may be destroyed by unexpected first frosts.

Water the rosettes only at the root. Water should not fall on the leaves and, moreover, linger on them. If droplets of water remain on the leaf plates during sunrise, then burn spots appear in their place.

Secrets of experienced gardeners

Loose loams or sandy loams suitable for strawberries are rarely present on the site in ready-made form. But if you do a few manipulations, it is quite possible to get such soil for planting strawberries. To do this you need:

cut down the top layer of podzolic forest soils about 8 cm thick;
fold the layers in several layers to a height of up to 1 m and a width of up to 80 cm and pour plenty of water on each layer;
cover the pile with polyethylene, leaving small “windows” for the flow of fresh air;
under such conditions, the temperature in the pile increases greatly and all plant residues, pathogenic microbes and fungi, and insect pest larvae begin to burn out;
after 2-3 months, as a result of the organic “combustion” process, soil is obtained that is most suitable in its structure and mineral composition for growing garden strawberries.

How to properly prepare the soil

The right decision would be to start preparing the site for future plantings in the autumn, since after winter the soil will be saturated with moisture and all that remains is to loosen it properly using a fork. This option is also good because it reduces the amount of necessary spring work in the garden.
When digging up the soil under the plantation, you should carefully remove all weeds and even their roots remaining in the ground. You need to dig the beds deeply (on the bayonet of a shovel), then in winter most of the pathogenic microorganisms and insect larvae will die from low temperatures (freeze out).
Pre-prepared soil will have time to settle properly before planting. Then the roots of the planted young bushes will not become exposed over time, which negatively affects the further development of the plants.
Proper moisture plays a significant role in preparing the soil and further growing garden strawberries. The difficulty is that strawberries require a fairly large amount of water and at the same time cannot tolerate waterlogging. Before planting the plants, the prepared bed should be watered abundantly for several days, but the moisture should not stagnate.
Young strawberry plantings must be mulched with peat or humus. Pine litter is perfect for these purposes. Any mulch serves several purposes at once: it protects the soil from drying out, is an additional source of nutrients and protects the root system of plants from freezing in winter.

Composition of soil for strawberries

According to gardeners, the most optimal soil composition for such an unpretentious plant is humus. It contains the largest amount of organic matter, which is so necessary for the full development and growth of the culture. It is obtained by decomposing natural humus and vegetation residues. That is why creating such soil manually is possible even for beginners in plant care.

In the absence of pets, the soil for garden strawberries is turf-type. This type of soil does not have sufficient acidity, so you can balance the soil using a natural baking powder. The solution to the question of how to prepare such a baking powder lies in sawdust, which is thoroughly moistened with urea. But in this case, it is important to maintain the proportions: 1 part sawdust to 10 parts soil.

But peat is controversial. Some gardeners say that planting on peat soil will help improve the quality of the harvest. Others are of the opinion that the soil composition for strawberries is not suitable for strawberries due to the inappropriate acidity level.

You can prepare the soil for planting using the following popular additions:

humus of natural origin;
turf;
peat soil with natural additions;
wood type sawdust.

These components are taken in equal proportions, mixed thoroughly and sprinkled on the selected area.

Additional soil preparation features

Recently, many gardeners have begun to grow berries using non-standard methods. They require special soil preparation. Planting berries in pots or bags is becoming not only fashionable, but also practical, especially for residents of big cities. For example, for planting in pots, containers or pipes, the soil will be the same, but the additives will be different:

The first step is to consider the method of planting in bags. Instead of perlite, gardeners recommend adding a fertilizer called vermiculite. This method will allow you to preserve the required amount of moisture and fine sawdust with your own hands.
The composition of the soil for planting in pipes implies the presence of 10% sand of the total volume of soil. 10 grams of wood ash also wouldn’t hurt; its main task is to prevent strawberries from rotting.

Planting strawberries in the photo

When choosing a place to plant strawberries in an area where the crop will be comfortable, its biological characteristics are taken into account. First of all, we remember that strawberries are very light-loving. The quantity and quality of strawberries is directly proportional to the amount of solar energy received by the plants. For this reason, we choose the sunniest place for planting strawberry seedlings in the spring. The duration of illumination of the berry garden with direct sunlight should be at least 8-10 hours a day. Even with slight shading, all varieties experience a delay in flowering and ripening of berries by 7-10 days, the overall yield is greatly reduced and, most importantly, the taste of the berries sharply deteriorates. The fruits become more watery and sour. Yield losses from gray rot in shaded areas increase, and leaves are more susceptible to all kinds of fungal infections.

In places with light openwork shading - under the crowns of mature fruit trees - only small-fruited strawberries can be planted to effectively use the space. For this crop, the decrease in yield from shading is the least noticeable.

The second thing that should never be forgotten is that strawberries are a very demanding crop in terms of soil fertility. Therefore, when choosing a place to plant strawberry seedlings in the spring, we allocate the most fertile areas for it.

Be sure to pay attention to the mechanical composition of the soil and water regime. Based on the mechanical composition of the soil, the best option for planting strawberries and wild strawberries is light loam. In areas with heavy clay soils and in damp lowlands with stagnant moisture in the autumn-winter period, strawberries grow very poorly. The root system rots, the leaves and berries are severely damaged by fungal diseases. Areas with groundwater levels closer than 1 meter are unsuitable for strawberries.

Subject to regular watering and fertilizing, strawberries do well in soils with a high sand content. But southern slopes with light soils and elevated areas are still not the best option. In winter, on slopes, especially steep ones, strawberries can freeze severely due to the fact that snow is blown off the plantings. In dry years, which have become more frequent recently, plants will suffer from overheating and lack of moisture. In this case, it is necessary to foresee the possibility of watering in advance.

Video: How to plant strawberries in spring

What kind of soil do strawberries like - acidic or alkaline?

The acidity of the soil will determine how well the crop will develop, whether it will be susceptible to diseases, and whether there is enough nutrition for full ripening.

A small comparison of indicators will help you determine which soils are preferable for strawberries:

pH 3-4- strongly acidic soil, in which the content of nitrogen, potassium, boron and phosphorus is scanty. And these are the substances that are necessary throughout the growing season. In such soil there is an increased content of aluminum, iron, and manganese. An excess of these minerals reduces the ability of root system cells to absorb already meager nutrition;
pH 7-8- slightly alkaline soil is characterized by a lack of phosphorus, but if it is constantly replenished with the help of fertilizing, then a lack of zinc and copper occurs, which leads to chlorosis;
pH 8-9- increased alkaline reaction is characterized by a lack of nitrogen and phosphorus, an excess of copper, manganese, zinc. This factor slows down the development of the plant and leads to curling of the foliage.

The conclusion suggests itself: For good development of strawberries, you need slightly acidic soil or with a neutral reaction. In slightly acidic soils, the amount of necessary elements is close to the ideal composition (in a neutral environment it is optimal); with the help of fertilizing, the crop receives everything it needs. In addition, the vital activity of beneficial microorganisms is best demonstrated in slightly acidic and neutral soil. Ideal acidity parameters for berries are in the range of 5.5–6.5 pH.

No less important is the structure of the soil for strawberries and its carrying capacity. Both loose sandstones and heavy clay soils are equally unsuitable. Nutritious chernozem, with proper feeding, for example, mulching with pine needles, will become an ideal soil. But such lands do not exist everywhere.

Suitable in composition, “correct soil” are the following lands:

sandy loam- quickly evaporates moisture without forming a crust on the surface, perfectly allows air and water to pass deep, lightweight;
loamy- quite fertile, perfectly passes and retains moisture, loose, allows heat and air to pass through.

Do you need to dig up the soil?

Many summer residents neglect to dig up their strawberry beds. As a result, the soil is too hard and the strawberries do not germinate. Only with this approach it is necessary to take into account that the root system of strawberries reaches a depth of about 30 cm. In order for the harvest to be of higher quality, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient flow of moisture and air. If you do the digging without leveling the top layer of the bed, then the frosts will rid the gardener and the berries of most of the larvae of small pests. The bed can be leveled even after a frosty period.

If the summer resident is in poor health and it is not safe to use a shovel, you can replace it with a pitchfork. In most cases, turning over layers of earth is not as important as loosening it efficiently. If the soil is heavy, then digging up the soil in the autumn may be in vain. Literally after the first precipitation, such soil will become monolithic and the berries may suffocate in it. Therefore, before the digging process, in the case of peat soils, the following additions can be added directly to the garden bed:

sandy;
rotten sawdust;
turf.

With the help of these additions, you can improve the quality of the soil in the area and its fertility. You should also measure the levels of melt and groundwater. For strawberries, the higher the planting site, the better. Despite the berries’ love for moisture in the summer, in other months you should not overdo it with liquid.

It is worth remembering that the roots of the berry react instantly to changes in moisture and the system begins to rot already on the second day if there is an excess of it. If, due to climatic or other conditions, strawberries have to be grown in less than ideal conditions, you can form a special drainage layer. It promotes the removal of melt water and a decrease in water levels.

Planting green manure

Before planting strawberries, you can prepare the soil by planting green manure. These are plants that can enrich the soil with nutrients. They can be planted in summer or autumn, and removed after flowering begins. The stems and leaves of plants serve as compost to improve soil composition.

The following green manures are most effective:

Optimal site selection

To successfully cultivate garden strawberries (or strawberries), you should adhere to several rules for choosing a site.

The best place for planting berries is a sunny and draft-protected area with loose, water- and breathable soil.
It is unacceptable to locate the plantation in a lowland with close groundwater. Excessive humidity and stagnation of water will certainly lead to rotting of the roots and death of the plantings.
Heavy clay soils that have poor drainage ability are not suitable for strawberries. It is better to choose areas with sandy loam or loam.
Garden strawberries love a large amount of organic matter, but a humus content above 3% is undesirable for them.
Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soils with a pH level in the range from 5.5 to 6.5 for full development.
Despite the negative attitude towards stagnation of water, the crop does not tolerate drought well and requires constantly high soil moisture, which is achieved by regular heavy watering, especially during the period of berry formation.
Garden strawberries grow best after grain crops, but nightshades and cabbage are not the most suitable predecessors for the berries, since after them many pathogens of dangerous diseases and insect pests remain in the soil.
Do not grow garden strawberries in one place for more than four to five years, otherwise the quality and quantity of berries will only deteriorate over time.
The main amount of all necessary substances and fertilizers should be applied immediately when preparing the bed. Subsequently, it will be very difficult to radically improve the structure and fertility of the soil - you will have to limit yourself to only maintenance fertilizing.

The first step when preparing the land before planting is to inspect the area and determine the type of soil based on the previously indicated characteristics. It is also important to prepare the soil for strawberries by taking into account predecessors. Previously growing plants on the ground influence its composition. The best predecessors for strawberries are greens, beets, carrots, and peas.

Preparing the soil for planting strawberries in the fall should include taking into account the characteristics of the land after the listed crops. Such types of predecessors as pumpkin and nightshade are undesirable.

The beds are prepared for planting in the fall after the main crop is harvested after suitable plants. Before planting strawberries, you need to remove the weeds first. For example, peat soil requires 20 kg of sand. You also need to add a mixture of organic matter and lime to the soil.

Mineral fertilizers

In autumn, when planting strawberries, mineral fertilizers based on nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium can be added to the soil. When working with mineral fertilizers, you must strictly adhere to the prescribed dosages. Substances are added in dry or dissolved form.

In the fall, strawberries are fertilized with ammonium sulfate, which looks like small white crystals. The substance dissolves well in water. Before digging the soil, dry ammonium sulfate is scattered over its surface. For each square meter, 40 g of this substance is enough.

Important! Ammonium sulfate is absorbed by the root system and helps strawberries grow green mass.

After planting strawberries in the fall, the last fertilizing is done at the end of October. During this period, potassium humate is used. This fertilizer is of organic origin and allows you to increase the yield of strawberries, stimulate their growth and strengthen the plant's immunity.

In autumn, superphosphate is added to the soil, which requires a long time to dissolve in the soil. 1 g of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water, after which the soil is watered between the rows of strawberries.

What and how to lime the soil

Liming is the only way to correct acidic soil. Its meaning is that the alkaline ions of liming substances neutralize hydrogen ions, reducing their total amount. In agricultural practice they use:

slaked lime;
ground limestone;
dolomite flour;
marl.

These are all rocks with a high carbonate content, often yellowish in color. They are relatively soft, easily ground into powder and dosed. The powder is evenly scattered over the dug up soil and mixed thoroughly with it using a rake.

Acidic soil is not a sentence, but a challenge to the gardener. By determining the degree of neglect of the problem and mastering the technology of liming the plot, you can create optimal soil for strawberries that are generous in their fruits.

Soil acidity

Soil acidity is determined by the pH sign. And for strawberries this indicator is at level 6, which indicates a slightly acidic environment, close to neutral.

Increased acidity of the area is dangerous, since aluminum ions can inhibit the root system of the plant and prevent it from developing properly.

High acidity is determined by the presence of:

weeds such as woodlice, sedge, horsetail;
red-brown deposits on stones and paths;
rusty hue on the surface of the earth.

Litmus paper will help determine the pH level. It is lowered into a container of water in which there is a bundle of soil. If the indicator turns yellow or red, then the soil in the area is acidic. From blue to light blue – neutral alkaline.

Correcting the soil condition begins with liming the bed. Slaked lime powder or dolomite flour is sprinkled evenly on the area under the strawberries, mixing with the soil with a rake. You can increase acidity with peat and gypsum.

Achieving the appropriate pH is essential for the plant to feel comfortable and produce excellent yields.

How to adjust soil characteristics

It happens that the area is not suitable for planting berries. In this case, you shouldn’t give up strawberries completely. In this situation, artificially adjusting the composition according to do-it-yourself recommendations helps:

Some gardeners use sandy soils for planting strawberries. You can plant strawberries in this type of soil after adding humus. The best fertilizer is considered to be manure from a cow or any type of poultry. In this form, the soil for strawberries will become suitable for planting.
Another option is reduced or, conversely, increased acidity. It is possible to stabilize acidity levels at home. Limestone or organic additions help reduce acidity. Plastering or mineral fertilizers will help increase the indicator.
Soil that contains excess moisture is unacceptable. The soil should be moderately moist. For this reason, gardeners do not recommend planting berries in lowlands. After all, a large amount of water accumulates there.

Knowing how to update the soil composition for strawberries in different situations, you should consider a number of the following questions. These recommendations will help not only improve the composition of the soil, but also understand what soil acidity is suitable for strawberries.

If there is not enough space for planting berries, you should know the following recommendations:

If there is no space other than lowland, the land for strawberries should be located at the highest point.
If the soil is only soil, you can improve the nutritional value with humus or purified sand.
In low areas there should be a drainage ditch to prevent water from flooding new seedlings.

Strawberries are an unpretentious berry. Therefore, it can easily grow on flat areas with a slight slope. Ideally, if it is directed to the southwest. In this case, the soil for strawberries will be ideal, because it is under the sun’s rays.

What is meant by acidity?

Soil is not just lumps of fertile earth, it is a complex complex of chemical compounds. They enter into various reactions, and also help or, conversely, interfere with plant roots to absorb water and nutrition. Being in groundwater, some of these compounds split off hydrogen ions, and the more of them, the higher the acidity.

The pH symbol is used to indicate acidity. The acidity scale includes numbers from 1 to 7, with seven indicating a neutral environment, and anything higher is an indicator of alkaline soils. For strawberries, wild strawberries and most garden crops, with the exception of heather, soil with a slightly acidic reaction is ideal, in other words, with a pH of about 5.5-6.0.

On soils with an acidity index below 5 (strongly acidic), aluminum ions are released in the fertile horizon, which, in fact, inhibits the root system of strawberries and strawberries.

Before planting, the bed must be thoroughly treated to remove weeds. Therefore, standard weeding techniques often do not work. There are weed plants from perennial varieties that are much more difficult to weed out. Advice from experienced gardeners will help you get rid of weeds, both perennial and simpler ones:

Weeding the beds must be done immediately after the last snow has melted;
For a week and a half, you should cover the bed with black, non-woven material. If there is none, you can use agrofibre or roofing felt;
Then remove the shelter after the specified period;
Cut off the shoots that appear afterwards with a flat cutter or using a hand cultivator.

This procedure is relevant for spring cleaning of strawberry beds. If the cleaning is of the autumn type, the cover should not be removed until August. Or you will have to constantly cut annual weeds by hand. This option is ideal for gardeners who are not supporters of organic farming.

Using these tips, you can choose the right land for planting strawberries, as well as learn how to care for them. As a result, the berry will thank the gardener with a high-quality harvest.

Perhaps familiarity with the technical indicators of a harrow will be useful to you in the future. A video about the operation of the BDT 3 disc harrow is at the end of the article.

Purpose and design of the BDT 3 disc harrow

The trailed unit in question is used in two positions.

In transport position.
And in working position.

Disc harrow BDT 3 technical characteristics

When peeling stubble 200 mm.
After plowing 120 mm.
On peat bogs, three passes at 250 mm.

Reviews from owners of the BDT 3 disc harrow

Many owners used disk tillers to till the land in the past. They say that they penetrate deeper into the soil in one pass than with a harrow. But the speed of tillage is slower:

Owners are satisfied with reliable fixation:

angle of attack of disk sections;
side frames of the harrow during transportation.

Price for disc harrow BDT 3

Among the various types of additional equipment used in combination with tractor equipment in the agricultural sector, the special harrow BDT 3 is of great importance. It allows you to effectively cultivate land plots of an impressive area and is of the disk type.

Before studying the most significant technical characteristics of BDT 3, it is necessary to consider in more detail the main features of this type of equipment. The harrow is designed for cultivating neglected, plowed lands, as it does an excellent job of crushing small blocks, as well as mulching the soil.

The main working element of this device is batteries constructed from rotating disks. Their diameter can vary from 40 to 50 cm, they are mounted at a certain angle for greater efficiency. The BDT 3 model belongs to the category of heavy units and has an impressive list of advantages in comparison with lighter analogues.

Among them, worthy of mention:

constant processing depth;
high efficiency of weed removal;
no need for additional maintenance operations;
excellent performance.

The harrow allows you to cultivate the soil

Due to its features, this unit is widely used in the agricultural sector and is widely used for cultivating various types of soil. The battery consists of several disks that are mounted on the same axis and move synchronously.

The front batteries are responsible for the primary tillage of the soil, and the rear batteries are responsible for the formation of a distinct harrow and soil rejection.

Purpose

The heavy disc harrow is ideal for harrowing agricultural land after successful harvesting of grain plants, as well as in preparation for sowing. The device is often used to care for pastures, meadows and other areas intended for grazing.

Due to its technical characteristics, as well as its reliable design, the model is used for processing various soils in most climatic zones, which makes it a universal solution.

Significantly expands the scope of application and the ability to adjust the unit using a special adjustment screw. It is connected to a lever, which is responsible for moving the rod, due to which it is possible to turn the axle with the disks.

Specifications

As mentioned earlier, one of the main reasons for the popularity of this unit intended for land cultivation is its outstanding technical characteristics, as well as its simple and reliable design. Among the most important indicators characteristic of the device, it is advisable to mention:

processing width/depth - 3m/20cm;
number of working units - 29 pcs;
distance between disks - 22 cm;
productivity (depending on soil type) - 1.8 ha/h;
movement speed during processing - 8-10 km/h;
unit dimensions (LxWxH) - 4.64x3.37x1.15 m.

Harrow disc

Due to its weight - 1.75 tons, the equipment belongs to the heavy class, which requires the presence of appropriate power in the tractor equipment that is planned to be used in conjunction with the harrow. The cost of the product can vary significantly and depends on the condition and year of manufacture of the equipment. A new unit will cost 250 thousand rubles, and a used one in good condition can cost about 175 thousand.

Principle of operation

The equipment boasts a simple operating principle. The working elements (disks) begin to rotate as they move, and thanks to their pointed parts, they cut off the layer of earth. It, in turn, rises to the inner surface of the disk and, having risen to the required height, is thrown to the side.

This allows you to crush small fragments of soil, turn it over and mix it. If you want to increase the processing depth, you can increase the working angle, which will allow the discs to penetrate the soil more effectively and improve the quality of harrowing. Thanks to the simple principle of operation, even unqualified personnel can use this type of equipment, provided they have the minimum necessary knowledge.