DIY hand garden auger drawings. Do-it-yourself drill: earthen, for pillars, wells, drawings, dimensions

A hand drill is necessary for construction when repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or vegetable garden. Using this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for installing supports during the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced with any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that hand drill for poles you can do it yourself, saving a significant amount of money. All you need to make this indispensable tool is detailed instructions, describing how to make a drill, availability necessary materials, tools and, of course, patience.

Using a hand auger, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for posts or planting trees.

It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loamy base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made from high-quality materials. In this case, its service life may be unlimited.

Materials and tools

Before you begin, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do this, you need to have:

welding machine;
welding clamps;
grinders with a cutting disc for iron;
electric drills;
pairs of gas keys;
dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
die holder;
vice.

Materials for making a drill: grinder disc, drill, pipes.

As practice shows, application in in this case simple cutting inserts with sufficient large diameter, is unable to give the desired effect. A hand drill made from such material will take away your energy and time in the process of drilling earth holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made drill made by yourself will be much more effective, and working with it will take noticeably less time.

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Device

A hand drill consists of the following elements:

Pen.
Insert.
Cutting attachment.
Clutch.
Bolt with nut.
Cutting blades.
Guide rod.
Blade.

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Manufacturing of pre-rippers

As for the worm version of the tool, making it yourself is quite difficult. Taking this into account, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of force applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.

The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crumble dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the hole and supply the already loosened soil to the surface of the disk ripper.

The disk ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil upward. During one such process, the depth of the dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, working with a hand drill will be quite difficult.

A good material for making pre-rippers can be car spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.

For sharpening cutting edge such a ripper must maintain a certain angle. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can begin welding the next section of the rod. The next step it is necessary to attach the second pre-ripper element to it (end-to-end). Finally, all that remains is to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise backlash may occur.

As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole, for its manufacture it is recommended to use processed circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid displacement of forces, as a result of which the dug wells may turn out crooked.

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Threading

At the opposite end of the rod it is necessary to cut a thread onto which the coupling will subsequently be screwed. For this purpose you will need a vice and a special die. Clamp the barbell (end up) in a strong vise, maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, completely undesirable depreciation may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end to form a cone. This will guarantee that the die will sit correctly and evenly on the bar. After this, you can begin cutting work.

There is nothing complicated in the thread cutting process. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die gets stuck during work, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After this, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The most optimal thread is considered to be 10 cm long.

The next step is to screw a coupling onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of the connecting seam. At this point, you can safely assume that you have completed the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.

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Making a pen

The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at right angles in a T-shape. The main bar itself can have a length of 40 to 50 cm. The recommended width of the handle should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the rod's resistance to rotational force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand-held pole drill will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the ground in moderate parts.

Before you start welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, making sure the corners are straight. This way you will not only save correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not move to the side. The weld seam should be end side main rod. At this stage you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and service life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on all the stress, don’t skimp on the electrodes.

The uneven joints are ground down using a grinder; this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but will also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get while using a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod in the same way as the previous one.

Is it possible to make a drill with your own hands? For some earthworks in the country an indispensable tool is a hand drill. A hole dug using this tool will be compact, and the excavated earth will be less than when working with a shovel. The hole drill will also preserve the natural structure and density of the soil.

Types of garden drills

Garden augers vary in power, size and purpose. Highlight following types Yamoburov:

non-motorized ( handheld device, which is actively used in everyday life);
mechanized (a manual device that runs on gasoline and a motor);
mounted (a mechanized device that works with a tractor or other equipment).

A non-motorized hole drill will be able to make holes of medium diameter and depth in the ground. The work is carried out thanks to the operator who holds the tool. This device is very convenient to use and easy to transport due to its compactness. Using such a tool, you can put up a wooden fence or dig holes for seedlings. The device consists of a main rod with a knife and a T-shaped handle. There are models of earth drills with removable knives or a screw, which makes it possible to drill holes of various sizes (up to 2 m) and diameters (up to 30 cm).

The mechanized drill is equipped with a drive. Him simple design: screw auger or rod and electric or gasoline drive with geared motor. The screw is started thanks to the rotational and translational movements of gears. Such a tool can drill deeper holes (up to 3 m).

Mounted drills are intended for drilling wells big size and diameter. They are used for installation of street lighting poles, fencing of enterprises, train stations, and airports. Thanks to them, fencing for trenches is made. They have great performance and power.

To choose the right device, you need to pay attention to specifications drill: hole diameter, depth, number of holes per day, power.

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With my own hands.
Manufacturing Features.
DIY transforming bench: drawings, dimensions.
Making a drill yourself

Making a pit drill is labor-intensive work, but it does not require any special skills. To make an earth drill you will need the following tools:

cutter;

rod (a metal structure that increases when the drill is immersed in the soil);

handle for rotating the device;

welding machine;

lathe;

motor with sandpaper;

electric drill with various drill bits for metal;

steel sheets;

steel rods;

pipe.

To make a drill with your own hands, you can use the drawings. First you need to cut a sheet of steel and cut out circles of different diameters, which will ensure the versatility of the device. Circles will be used to make the cutters. The diameter of the workpieces should be larger the right size recesses by 5 mm. All workpieces are drilled in the center so that the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the rod.

On a lathe, bushings are made from steel with perforations in the center, in which the threads are made. They will be needed to attach the cutting parts to the rod. It is recommended that they be performed by a master, because the reliability of the device itself will depend on its strength.

Next you need to turn round blanks into spiral shapes. For this purpose, a small segment should be cut out of the workpiece, the ends should be secured in a vice and stretched. Due to stretching, the workpiece takes the form of a spiral. There is no need to stretch it too much, otherwise the metal will lose strength.

After this, sharpen the outer end of the spiral so that it cuts the soil easier. Small cuts (approximately 3 mm) should be made on the rod at intervals of approximately 8 cm from the edge. Sharpen the edge of the rod for easy penetration into the soil and cut into a shallow spiral. To make it easier to work with dense soil, weld a metal drill to the edge of the rod.

The rod is made from pipe sections. The possibility of fastening them to each other is provided. A handle is attached to the top to rotate the device. Upon completion of all construction work, you need to paint the device with a special paint that can protect the instrument from corrosion. The drill for poles with your own hands is ready.

Digging holes for posts with your own hands using a shovel is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. This may take more than one day if the decision is made to build a fence. Way out of this difficult situation- do everything with help garden borer. The device is simple and does not require the use of energy, that is, it is clean hand tool. It's easy to work with, no big effort required. As practice shows, in 15 minutes you can dig a hole in the ground with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of one meter. That is, in just a couple of hours you can completely prepare places for installing poles.

Today, garden tool manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of hand drills. They cost differently, but if the work they do is one-time, then maybe it’s worth making it yourself. How difficult is this creative process? Basically, for anyone home handyman For those who are familiar with simple plumbing tools and can handle electric welding, this task is quite doable. Let's look at how you can make a garden hand drill from scrap materials.

Required materials and tools

What materials will be required for this:

Metal pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm.
Strip 3-5 mm thick.
A metal sheet 3-4 mm or a disk from a circular saw, you can use a cutter.
Bolts with M6 nuts, if a drill with removable knives will be manufactured.

Tools:

Welding machine complete with electrodes;
Hammer;
Hacksaw or grinder;
Roulette.

Attention! Pay attention to the internal diameter of the cutter; it should be slightly larger than the external diameter of the pipe by approximately 5-7 mm.

Manufacturing process

First of all, the length of the hand drill for the pillars is determined. Approximately, you can take it within 1.5 m. Therefore, a piece of this size is cut from the pipe. Pruning is done with a grinder.

Very important element- this is the tip of the drill. It serves as a guiding element. But if you come to the issue of ease of drilling soil (especially hard), then it’s worth making a small drill from the tip. Therefore, it is better to make the element itself from a metal strip 5 mm thick. How to do it right.

A 10 cm long piece is cut from a strip 5 mm thick and 20 mm wide.
One end of it is sharpened into a cone. This can be done with a grinder by putting an emery disc on it.
The other end is ground on both sides so that it can easily fit into the pipe. Turning length - 5 cm.
The tip is inserted into the pipe and electrically welded on all sides.
You can change the design of the tip (improve it) by making a small drill out of it. To do this, you will have to heat the device and shape it into a screw, something like a corkscrew.

It is the corkscrew design that will help increase the element’s ability to bite into hard soil. Here it is important to accurately establish the direction of twist. It should coincide with the angle of inclination of the main drill knives. Typically, the tool is twisted clockwise, which means that the sharp edge should be located on the right side.

There is another option for making a drill tip with your own hands. To do this, you will have to cut the end of the pipe longitudinally to a depth of 3-5 cm. This is done with a grinder. There should be four or five cuts, with the same distance (or approximately the same) left between them. Now, using a hammer, you need to adjust the edges of the cuts to the center of the pipe diameter. After that, the joints of the cut strips are scalded with electrodes, and the end of the device is sharpened with a grinder.

Now you can proceed to installing the main knives. You can make them yourself from various cutting working tools. The cutters and disks from the circular saw were listed above. Basically, this list is longer. If cutting discs were not found, then knives can be made from sheet steel 3-4 mm thick. You simply cut a circle out of a sheet of the required diameter; by the way, this can be done with a grinder or electric welding. Then a hole is made in it with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. And after that the steel circle is cut into two even halves.

You can first cut the circle in half, and then cut semicircles on the two halves for the pipe. The important thing here is to finish the process by sanding down all the raw edges. The outer edges of the half-discs are sharpened to a certain sharpness. After which both knives are welded to the pipe. There are a couple of recommendations here:

The distance from the place where the tip is welded to the place where the knives are installed is 10-15 cm.
The knives themselves are installed one above the other, the distance between them is 5 cm, the installation angle is approximately 20°.
The discs must be welded so that their working edge is directed downwards, that is, when drilling, the drill should easily crash into the ground.

All that remains is to weld a small piece of pipe perpendicular to the drill pipe. This will be the handle. Its length is 50 cm, but here everyone chooses it for themselves. To prevent the effort of human hands from breaking the weld between two pipes, it is necessary to weld gussets cut from a metal sheet on both sides.

The design of the drill can be modified, or rather, improved. Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig holes for posts longer than 1.5 m. Therefore, it is recommended to add a couple of additional pipes to the tool, which will increase the length of the tool itself. How to make these elements correctly.

Firstly: it is necessary to modify the drill handle, making it removable. Therefore, it is not welded tightly, but made in the shape of the letter “T”. In this case, the section of pipe that will be inserted into the drill barrel must have a diameter less than the diameter of the barrel. And at the same time, the handle should fit into the barrel unhindered, but not so much as to reduce the strength characteristics of the tool itself.
Secondly: in the barrel of the handle you need to make two through holes, located perpendicular to each other. The distance between them is 5-6 cm.
Thirdly: exactly the same holes with a diameter of 7 mm must be made on the drill barrel at the entry point of the handle. It turns out that both elements will be connected with two M6 bolts.
Fourth: several pipes 1.5 m long are prepared, corresponding to the diameter of the handle barrel, in which the same holes are drilled at both ends. Locations are the same as on the handle barrel.

To lengthen a hand drill two or three times, you need to unscrew the fastening bolts, remove the handle, insert the pipe into the pipe, secure them with bolts, install a handle on the free end of the extended drill, attaching it with two bolts.

As for the diameter of the holes for the posts, this can also be changed if the knives are made removable. To do this, at the place where the knives are installed, it is necessary to weld two shelves cut from a strip 5 mm thick. You can make the shelf in the form of a circle with an internal hole for the tool pipe. A circle with a diameter of 8-10 cm is cut out of a sheet of iron, a hole is made in it for the pipe, and this element is installed and welded to the trunk. You must first make four through holes in it, two on each side. Removable knives will be attached to them.

Attention! Removable knives are fastened with M6 bolts. Installation of bolts should be done with the thread upward towards the handle. They simply in this position will not interfere with the process of drilling the soil.

You can increase the efficiency of the drill if you install between the knives and the tip additional element. This is, in fact, a flat cutter that will loosen the soil before inserting the knives and center the drill itself. A small addition will make it possible to increase the drilling speed, especially in hard soils and in places where there are a large number of plant roots in the ground.

It’s not difficult to make such a flat cutter with your own hands. To do this, you will need a plate 4-5 mm thick and 30 mm wide. Two pieces of 80 mm length are cut out of it. They are welded opposite each other to the drill barrel. The right edge of the additional knives becomes sharper. To prevent heavy loads from breaking the flat cutter, you can add two metal gussets to their fastening.

In principle, this is how you can make a hand drill with your own hands for digging holes for pillars. Let's face it, it won't take very long to make this tool, about two hours, no more.

Good day. I want to tell you about how I made the drill.
I needed to install several posts of different diameters on the site. I was too lazy to dig, buying a ready-made drill was expensive, and my hands were itching. That's how the idea of making a drill myself came up. I found several on the Internet interesting options and, in fact, got down to business.

Since my posts were of different diameters, I decided to make a drill with interchangeable attachments for different hole diameters, 100 and 180 mm. Next I will describe the manufacture of a drill with a diameter of 100 mm.
So, to make a drill I needed:
1. Pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm, length 150-160 mm
2. Strip, 3-4 mm thick, 20 mm wide and about 80 mm long.
3. Milling cutter (or circular disk), in the future I will simply call it a disk, with a diameter of 100 mm and a thickness of at least 1.5-2 mm. (Fig. 1)
In this case, it is better to take a pipe with a diameter 2-5 mm smaller than the central hole of the disk.

A
B
IN

Figure 1. Drill components. A – cutter (disk); B – tube; B – stripe.

We will make the auger part of the drill from the disk. To do this, cut the disk into 2 equal halves, as shown in Figure 2

Figure 2 Cut disk.

Next, prepare the drill tip. It is necessary to give direction to drilling and ensure stability. Let's take a strip; it is desirable that the width of the strip be at least half the diameter of the pipe. In the example I described, the width of the strip is equal to the diameter of the pipe. (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Strip and pipe

From one edge of the strip we make a mark at a distance of approximately 12-16 mm (Fig. 1B). This section will remain straight. We clamp the strip in a vice, according to the mark, and twist it approximately 90 degrees (Fig. 4)

Figure 4. Twisting the strip.

The result will be a spiral strip (Fig. 5).

Figure 5 Spiral strip and tube with markings.

Figure 6. Marked strip

Figure 7. Tip after trimming.

We give it the shape of a feather on sandpaper (Fig. 8.) (in principle, this is not necessary, but it is more beautiful this way). The tip is ready, let's move on to the next element - the guide.

Figure 8. Finished tip

Let's make a guide to which the disk halves and the tip will be welded. On one edge of the tube we apply markings in the form of a crown with four peaks - teeth (Fig. 5). The height of the teeth is approximately 35-40 mm. After this, carefully cut out our “teeth” (Fig. 9) and bend them evenly inward (Fig. 10).

Figure 9 Cut guide

Figure 11 Guide.

Next, we make a slot in the tip at the junction of the two prongs, as shown in Figure 11 A. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the tip, and the depth is slightly deeper than the bend line of the prongs, 5-10 mm. If the guide width is smaller internal diameter pipe, it will be enough to make a slot such that the straight section of the tip passes inside the guide. We sharpen the two edges of the slot to fit the spiral (Fig. 11B), so that the tip fits into it to its full depth (ideally, after welding, the tip should smoothly move into the guide) (Fig. 11B).

A
B
IN

Figure 11 Slot in the guide.

Figure 12.

Well final stage, weld the disk halves. To do this, we draw 2 lines on the guide - the edges of the hole in the floor disks will be located on them (Fig. 13).

Figure 13

In principle, you don’t have to draw these lines, but with them it will be easier to symmetrically arrange the half-disks. We weld both halves one by one to the guide (Fig. 15), at an angle of 50-70 degrees to the axis of the guide.

Figure 14. Welding the disk halves.

The drill is almost ready, all that remains is to clean it and attach the handle.
A drill with a diameter of 180 mm was made in the same way. Both drills shown in Figure 15

Figure 15.

Figure 16 shows the drill assembly with handle. I think there is no need to describe the manufacture of the handle; in Figure 17 everything is clear.

Gardening tools make a lot of things easier different types works on suburban area. These are tools that are easy to design and use and can be used to various works With for different purposes. One of these tools is a hand-held garden auger. With its help, the time and burden of digging holes of different diameters in the ground are reduced.

The design of the drill is very simple. This is a vertical metal rod to which a pointed tip is welded. A perpendicular handle is attached to the top of the rod, special plates are welded just above the tip, and removable knives are attached to them with bolts. By choosing knives of different lengths, you can increase or decrease the diameter of the holes being dug. At the same time, the depth of the wells can also be controlled by increasing the rod itself. The garden auger kit includes removable sections that are attached to the rod using a threaded connection.

And although the drill itself is called a garden drill, it has found its application in various areas of private construction. That is, they use it not only in the garden or vegetable garden. Eg:

With its help you can make wells in the ground under support structures(for columnar foundations, for fence posts).
For the construction of shallow wells or compost pits.
You can use it to drill inclined or horizontal wells for laying communication systems or drainage of the site.
Of course, it is often used for its intended purpose - digging holes for planting trees.

Types of earthen garden drills

The tool market today offers a fairly wide range of garden drills, both domestic and foreign. The most popular hand-held garden auger today is a tool called “Bison”. Russians have been using it for a long time, considering it wonderful garden tool, which has high reliability, long term services and most cheap price. In second place you can put a manual earth drill of the TISE brand, also from a Russian manufacturer. Let's not forget about foreign analogues. For example, a Finnish hand-made earth drill from the Fiskars brand, which has an original, improved design. True, such a hand-held garden auger costs more than Russian ones.

A few words about the TISE brand drill. To give you an idea of what we're talking about, look at the photo above. This is enough complex design, with which you can make an expansion at the very depth of the well. Such earth drill called foundation because it is usually used for the construction of foundation structures. In this case, expansion increases strength columnar foundation in the longitudinal direction (from top to bottom). That is, due to expansion, it is possible to reduce the diameter of the well being dug, which reduces the material costs of purchasing building materials mostly cement.

Let us add that garden hand drills are not necessarily only mechanical tools. Today manufacturers offer a fairly wide the lineup electric and gasoline analogues, with the help of which the process of digging holes and wells is brought to a minimum of simplicity. Of course, these are fuel costs, and the price of such a unit is higher, but in pursuit of convenience and speed of excavation work, many summer residents and country developers choose them today.

In addition to plate drills, the market also offers auger types. It is the auger design that allows you to increase the productivity of soil excavation. In addition, some models have uneven edges. work surface, and jagged. It is these teeth that make it easy to cut off plant roots and quickly delve into the hardest soil.

And another type of garden drill is the Tornado brand. A completely different design, which has become a symbiosis of plate knives and fork-shaped knives. Look at the photo of the drill below and you will immediately understand distinctive features Tornado. This design reduces rotational resistance to a minimum due to vertically mounted fork-shaped knives. They simply loosen the soil very well and cut off plant roots without any problems.

How to make an earthen garden drill with your own hands

Certainly, perfect option- this is to buy a drill in a store. This is quality and reliability. But you can make a garden drill with your own hands from scrap materials without any problems, because its design is not that complicated. What will it take?

Tools: electric welding machine and Bulgarian. From materials:

Water pipe 1.5 m long with a diameter of 20 mm.
For the drill handle, it is better to use a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm and a length of half a meter.
Metal plate 5 mm thick. Its other dimensions are: length 20 cm, width 5 cm. You will need to make stands for knives from it.
It is better to use a disc for cutting stone as knives.

Now you can move on to making a drill with your own hands, drawings are not necessary here, but still look at the photo above, where the approximate dimensions of the tool are established. First of all, you need to weld a piece of metal plate to the end of the length of the pipe and sharpen its end. This will be the tip of the drill. Plate dimensions: length 10 cm, width 2 cm. You can sharpen it before welding it to the pipe using grinder or a grinder, putting it on grinding wheel. It would be ideal if the plate is inserted inside the pipe and welded to the diameter of the latter. Two to three centimeters of protrusion will be sufficient. But it is a reliable mount.

Next, it is necessary to make the primary knives; they are installed after the tip. Their purpose is to loosen the soil before the main knives work. They can be made from the same metal plate by cutting two strips 8 cm long and 3 cm wide. They simply need to be welded to the pipe on either side of it, as shown in the photo above.

Attention! The primary knives are installed on the pipe with a slight deviation. This sets an angle that will allow you to easily cut into the ground. The angle of inclination is chosen arbitrarily, but not more than 45°. The edges of the knives must be sharpened.

Now you need to weld the shelves to attach the main knives. They are made from the same plate. First you need to drill holes in them for fasteners (M6 bolts). There may be two or three holes. Please note that the shelves must also be installed at an angle of approximately 20°.

As mentioned above, basic knives can be made from an old disk that was used to cut stone. You just need to cut it in half with a grinder, make holes in the halves for fasteners that coincide with the holes on the shelves. Simply place the knives on the shelves and mark the holes with a marker, then drill according to the marks. Very important point- this is to properly sharpen the edge of the main and primary knives. Its tip should be directed towards the ground.

The last step is to weld the handle to the rod. To prevent the handle from falling off the mount during operation of the garden auger (the loads can be significant), it is recommended to weld two gussets on the sides, all from the same metal plate. The hand garden auger is ready, you can use it. By the way, this design had removable knives. You can make your own tool with a certain diameter for digging soil. The knives are simply welded to the shelves, and not mounted on bolts.

To prevent the threads of the bolts on the drill from becoming clogged with earth, which will make it difficult to change knives later, you can install protection on the threads from PVC hose or purchase electric cambrics.
To know to what depth the well is being dug, it is necessary, starting from the installation site of the main knives every 10 cm, to make marks with a file, which are then marked with numbers using paint. Convenient and practical. By the way, there is no point in painting the garden auger itself; the paint on it will not last long when working in the ground.
You can assemble such a drill with your own hands from scrap materials in one hour. In addition, its qualities will not differ in any way from the factory ones, especially since it has a design with removable knives, which increases the functionality of the tool.
After all the welding work you need to knock off the scale and grind the welding seams with a grinder. The handle needs to be sanded sandpaper so that its edges are smooth and do not hurt your hands.

Working with a homemade drill is sometimes difficult. This is especially true for hard soil, in which they are found in large quantities plant roots. In this situation, the hand drill may lead to the side. Therefore, before starting drilling work, you need to loosen the drilling site with a shovel and try to cut off the roots to the length of a bayonet.