Homemade forge at home. How to make a blacksmith's forge with your own hands Forge forge made of brick

A forge is used to heat metal before forging, cement it, and perform other procedures related to heat treatment. It makes it possible to set the temperature to 1100-1200 degrees. To use a standard forge, you must have special skills and knowledge and be able to select fuel. A gas forge, although it cannot be used for forging, for example, Damascus swords, is structurally quite simple. It can be made in thirty minutes from six fireclay bricks and steel scraps.

Design

Here are the structural parts, the presence of which presupposes the construction of a forge:

table made of fire-resistant material;
hearth with grate;
air chamber;
air drainage;
supply air duct;
tent;
a hole through which long parts are fed;
umbrella;
chimney;
crucible (can be removed);
tempering container;
gas-air chamber.

Charcoal forge

How to make a blacksmith's forge? First of all, you need to understand the principle of its operation. The coal forge functions by burning carbon. When carbon burns, it releases a large amount of energy, which is used for heating.

Since carbon is a powerful reducing agent, it has long been used in the metallurgical field to smelt iron and other metals. Carbon takes away all the oxygen from the metal ore, leaving pure metal after smelting.

Carbon prevents the workpiece processed through the forge from oxidizing too quickly. Thanks to this, the part does not burn out. Blowing is carried out so that the fuel lacks air. If you keep the product in the furnace for too long, it will dry out and become brittle.

Gas horn

The design of the device becomes much simpler if purified monogas (propane, butane) is used as fuel. These gases contain carbon and hydrogen molecules (hydrogen is a good reducing agent; when interacting with air, it releases a lot of energy). The gas can be mixed with oxygen in the burner. A homemade gas forge is made quite quickly. The main thing is to install the burner.

The situation is different if you use natural gas. It is a mixture of unsaturated/saturated hydrocarbons that require varying amounts of air to burn completely. It will not be possible to optimally regulate the oxygen supply.

In addition, natural gas contains sulfur, silicon and phosphorus molecules. Sulfur is the “worst enemy” of steel parts. It makes them unusable. To restore the workpieces, you will need to completely melt them down.

In view of this, natural gas can be used as a fuel only after purification from sulfur. The easiest way is to pass the fuel through naphthalene before feeding it into the burner, which will absorb all the sulfur molecules. A homemade forge operating on household gas is intended primarily for processing workpieces that will not be heavily loaded in the future.

Purpose of structural elements

In production, the table is usually lined with quartz brick, which is fire resistant. It can last for decades even in harsh conditions. A homemade forge for forging is lined with fireclay oven bricks. It's cheaper and more accessible. It will also last a long time if used infrequently.

The firebox with grates, air chamber and supply pipe form the main part of the device - the tuyere. Drainage is designed for precise and quick regulation of airflow. A weakly heated product cannot be forged; it will simply break.

The tent, umbrella, chimney are designed to remove smoke, which is harmful to the human body, from the furnace. Quite a lot of it is formed.

The hardening vessel and the gas-air chamber are optional elements. The hardening container will come in handy if you forge parts from damask steel. they need thermal shock hardening.

The gas-air chamber is used to:

additionally dry and heat oxygen;
purify oxygen from foreign particles and condensate;
introduce special additives into the air for alloying.

The crucible is a heat-resistant cap that increases the maximum permissible temperature. It is installed when a do-it-yourself forging device is used to melt precious metals and non-ferrous alloys.

Making a forge

The easiest way to make a forge with your own hands is from fireclay bricks. The grate shelves are made from cut metal pipes, and the grate bars themselves are made from a steel strip four to six millimeters thick. They must be tightened at an angle with a screw (to capture the blast flow). The fuel will be coal and coke. You can light the forge using a blowtorch. Don't forget to install an asbestos partition between the lamp and the forge. It is possible to use such a forge at home only outdoors, because an umbrella and a chimney are not provided.

You can also make a stationary forge with your own hands. To do this, you need to determine the dimensions of the table on which it will stand.

Stand straight with your feet shoulder-width apart. Lower your right arm, bend it at the elbow joint.
Have your partner measure the distance from your elbow to the ground. Add five to seven centimeters. This will be the height of the table.
Take pliers (preferably large) in your right hand. A partner must measure the distance from the stomach to the ends of the tool’s jaws.
Add 10 - 12 centimeters. This will be one half the length of the table diagonal.
The length of the table side should be 0.7 from the diagonal.

It is advisable to place the tuyere air vent with a vacuum cleaner at the bottom. The drain flap must be able to slide out to the front.

It is recommended to install a solid grate with grooves that intersect and divide the slab into squares. Carbon deposits accumulate in them. If you drill holes, you will need to clean them with a steel rod after each forging.

Why shouldn’t you make a forge with your own hands using a grate made of planks? This is due to the fact that fuel burns differently. In the cracks between the shelf slats, oxygen will flow where it is easier for it to escape. In that area, the temperature will rise, the entire part will dry out, and its fragility will increase.

How to make a forge if there is no special grate? A good option is a tuyere in which the holes are located concentrically and have a radius of 4-5 millimeters. This design gets dirty slowly and ensures uniform blowing.

Gas burners

The gas forge is ideal for artistic forging. There are models that are almost impossible to create without a category. The advantage of such devices is that they operate on any gas and have powerful supercharging.

Bicycle parts can be used to make a gas horn with your own hands. The only turning work you will need to do is turn the sprocket from the bicycle gearbox. This device can operate on propane, butane. However, it can only heat small brick furnaces that are closed. Under no circumstances should you light a burner with acetylene. The part will simply burn out and the device will explode.

Understanding how to make a gas forge is much easier than understanding, for example, an electrical circuit. To make it, use the appropriate drawings and photos. Watch the DIY forge video and you will be able to create a device that is perfect for home use.

Hand forging is becoming increasingly popular - both to meet your own needs and to produce various products to order. Heating of metal, in order to increase its plastic characteristics, must be performed in special heating devices, the simplest of which is a forge. The main task of the forge is to ensure a stable increase in the temperature of the metal to forging temperatures, i.e., no less than 1200 °C. How to make a homemade forge, and whether it is possible in principle, is discussed below.

Classification of types of forges

It can be carried out according to the following main indicators:

According to the type of fuel used. There are gas furnaces, as well as devices operating on solid (coal) or liquid (fuel oil) fuel.
According to the design features, open and closed forges are built.
By hearth size (effective surface) – small, medium and large.

Solid fuel furnaces, which require the use of coking coal, are an effective technical solution for video shooting, but an outdated one. This will require not only ensuring a continuous supply of high-quality charcoal, but also coming to terms with technological shortcomings, including:

uneven heating;
inability to control the process;
increased sulfur content, which will increase fragility during the forging process;
increased fuel consumption, it can be up to 120 - 150% of weight;
low efficiency of the device, accompanied by significant waste.

Nevertheless, such designs, in conditions of single production of products, can be used at home, especially if they are mini-forges running on cheap fuel oil.

Forge design

To create more favorable working conditions for a blacksmith, it is more advisable to build closed forges. Although they are somewhat more difficult to manufacture, they are more efficient and provide uniform heating of workpieces, in particular, those with a round or rectangular cross-section. Open forges remain insignificant in terms of product size for artistic forges.

A closed-type forge consists of the following elements:

steel support frame with racks;
hearth;
linings;
gate valve;
fan;
chimney pipes.

If during forging it is necessary to heat the metal not completely, then technological holes are made in the damper. They are equipped with closing eyes, necessary to reduce fuel losses and speed up the heating process.

When setting up a workshop, it is economical to equip the forge with a simple recuperator - a unit that increases the temperature of the exhaust furnace gases. Furnaces with recuperators have a higher efficiency, and the generated heat can be used, for example, for a furnace that performs subsequent processing of forged products - their forge welding, bluing, etc.

Stages of making a homemade forge

How to make a blacksmith's forge, and where to start? To make a closed furnace, you will first need to determine the dimensions of its hearth. They are determined by the desired performance, and depend on fuel consumption and the intensity of the forge. For the gas option, the optimal fuel supply speed can be taken to be 1 - 1.5 m/s: in this case, heat transfer processes in a closed space will proceed quite efficiently.

The hearth tension N is related to the productivity of the furnace N by a simple ratio:

where F is the hearth area.

Taking into account the area allocated for the forge, as well as the expected forging productivity (for example, in kg of products), it is possible to establish the actual minimum tension of the hearth (it should not be less than 100 - 150 kg/m2 ∙h, otherwise the arrangement of even a mini-version of the heating installation turns out to be unprofitable).

In order to make a forge with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

thick sheet heat-resistant steel;
refractory brick (fireclay or dinas);
rolled steel profiles (angles, channels) for mounting the hearth frame, manufacturing the damper and support posts;
steel chimneys for removing gases generated during the heating process of products;
fireproof coating for sealing cracks;
sheet or wide steel for external lining.

The design of an open hearth is much simpler - it only needs to be equipped with a grate system and provide an air supply that intensifies the heating process. In this case, a conventional ventilation hood made of heat-resistant steel is sufficient to remove combustion products.

In addition, during construction it makes sense to use standard units. Here we should mention a fan for the furnace, which can be used as units produced for high-power double-circuit boilers. Also suitable are ventilation pipes and steel chimneys designed for smoke removal of gases at 300 - 400 °C. You can set up a forge with your own hands using burners from powerful double-circuit boilers.

Making the support frame

Since the forge is a stationary unit, you should clearly determine its location. At home, not the entire part of the workshop can be used as a forge. But, of course, the forge should be adjacent to one of its walls, preferably one that does not communicate with adjacent buildings, since in this case it is much more difficult to arrange chimneys and install a fan for the forge.

According to fire safety conditions, the structure must be at least 1 m from the main wall of the workshop, and any use of materials with reduced fire resistance (including GKLO plasterboard) is excluded.

When making a support frame, it is advisable to use ready-made drawings that can be purchased or downloaded on the Internet. The dimensions of the forge/mini-forge are consistent with your own capabilities. It would be good if the drawings also included photos and/or videos of the forge in operation.

The support posts and frame are made welded, for which low-alloy steel 09G2S is usually used. It has sufficient strength, is easily and reliably welded, and is resistant to high-temperature corrosion. The pitch of the plate cells of the support frame is determined by the dimensions of the refractory. The finished frame is provided with holes for subsequent fastening of external lining elements.

Manufacturing of hearth and roof

When choosing refractories for arranging the upper part, they are guided by considerations of durability, the type of heated products, as well as the intensity of use of the forge. Fireclay and dinas are used most often.

Fireclay is manufactured according to the technical specifications of GOST 390-79. Buying uncertified products is very dangerous, since it is sometimes difficult to distinguish fireclay bricks by color from ordinary ones, which melt at 1200 ° C. Fireclay bricks suitable for masonry must be cream-colored and have low porosity. In this case, its weight is at least 5 kg. There are plenty of demo videos on the Internet that can help you identify quality products. The brands ShPD, ShA and ShB are suitable for the construction of the forge.

Download GOST 390-79 “Fireproof fireclay and semi-acid products for general use”

Hello humanity, today I will tell you how to make a forge with a temperature of up to 1100 degrees Celsius. In a forge, a forge is used to heat metal before forging, cementing and other heat treatment operations. When working with metal, it is almost always necessary. The forge will be coal, so it will be closer to nature. In addition, it is very reminiscent of the historical forge that our ancestors used. And most importantly, it will be simple, both to manufacture and to use.

We will need the following materials:

Fire brick. The most common refractory bricks are red and fireclay. Even though I used red, I recommend taking the second one. Since it can withstand high temperatures, and red can crack and break over time. You only need 12 bricks.
Fireclay clay. Any refractory clay will do. But fireclay is the most common. I bought a forty kg bag, but it's too much. Ten is enough. It is ideal to take twenty kg, so that if there is clay, you can cover up cracks, make injection molds, etc.
Construction sand. If yours is not new, like mine, it needs to be sifted through a special screen.
Iron pipe with a diameter of 25-30 mm.

You will also need some tools and consumables (a bucket, gloves, a hacksaw, etc.), I’ll tell you about them later.

Forge chamber

First, let's figure out what the forge will look like. I visually arranged all the bricks as they would be in the finished furnace.
The blowing will be sideways. Oxygen will be driven into the forge chamber through an iron tube. It needs to be filed at 45 degrees on one side, although I never did this. We insert it into the camera at an angle too. The photographs show how we will lay bricks together with clay.

Let's prepare the clay

I mixed it in a nine-liter bucket. Mix clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Next, add clean water. Knead the clay until it reaches the following condition. You need to roll a small ball, put it on one palm, and start pressing it with the other. Cracks should appear when it is squeezed halfway. In terms of consistency, it should resemble... Well, it doesn’t matter what.
Next, generously lubricate with clay all the joints between the bricks, all the internal and external parts. This way the heat will remain in the chamber for a long time. Lubricate the joints between the iron pipe and the bricks well with clay. The brick that serves as the back wall can be left unattached. This way you can move it aside and work with long workpieces. Of the top bricks, I attached only the outermost one with clay. This way the forge can be used both open and closed.
The pipe can also be improved to regulate the air supply. It can be sawed in the middle and threaded on both sides. Now we screw into the part in the furnace a plumbing tee with a tap, something like this:

So, by opening the tap, we can regulate the air supply. But I gave up on that too.

A few words about the air supply itself

Of course, something must force delicious oxygen into this pipe, which will heat the coals in the chamber to hellish temperatures. You can use blacksmith bellows. The kind our ancestors used in their forges. But this is not the best option, you need at least a couple of bellows to get the required temperature, and it would be nice to have an assistant who will tirelessly press the bellows.
It is much more productive to use electric leaf blowers. For example, a turbine for inflating mattresses. I used an old Soviet vacuum cleaner. You can even twist the hose from blowing in to blowing out, but it broke. I had to tape the bag on the side where the air is blown out.

A little about using the forge

I used it for forging and casting. It melts aluminum and other non-ferrous metals in a matter of seconds. We were able to cast some parts using foam molds in sand and clay molds. He melted aluminum cans in a special crucible. Next, the molten metal was cast into sand and plaster molds.

It is well suited for forging knives or some small metal products. We will talk about making knives from files in my next article.

One of the photos shows a heated forging, however, the color rendition is not at all the same. Due to the bright sun, it is impossible to determine the temperature of the workpiece by color. That’s why the forges used to be in twilight. Here is a video of the forge in action.

Lighting the forge

Everything is very simple here. The forge runs on charcoal, so you simply pour coals into the inside and light them like in a barbecue - using a highly flammable liquid. Next, apply air. In a few minutes the forge will heat up to 1000 degrees, and this is not the limit; the heat will also remain in it for a long time.
Blacksmithing can be both an unusual hobby and a highly paid profession. Professional blacksmiths receive very good money for their hard work!

If you are involved in forging, then you have probably had to think about heating the metal more than once. If you don’t yet have the financial opportunity to purchase a forge, then try making a forge with your own hands.

Types of forges:

by type of fuel - forges can operate on solid, liquid or gaseous fuel
by type of installation - portable or stationary models forges
according to the design of the hearth - open or closed type
according to the principle of operation - fuel or electric
according to the method of air supply - with a side nozzle or a central lance
by hearth size (effective surface) – small, medium and large.

The general structure of the forge is shown in the figure below.

Stages of making a forge with your own hands

1. The production of a forge begins with a table, the height of which will be 0.7-0.8 m, the surface will be 0.8 * 0.8 m or 1.0 * 1.5 m.
2. A furnace nest is placed in the center, consisting of a tuyere or grate for air supply. The grate is often made of cast iron. It is inserted into the hole of the table with a tight fit. If the brick is pre-soaked in water, it will be easier to process.
3. Next, you need to install the air blowing mechanism. This can be a mechanical foot blower, although it is better to use a fan, which is often taken from vacuum cleaners. Its speed is quite enough for work and, moreover, it does not produce much noise. You can make a fan from a blower from a hand siren or use a fan from a car heater.

What kind of fuel can be used in a forge? There are many options. This can be charcoal, hard coal, coke (preferably fine fractions), bottled gas or main gas, liquid fuel, most often fuel oil.

In the next video we will see how a craftsman made a forge with his own hands from an ordinary cast iron duckling. Holes with a diameter of 8 mm were drilled in the bottom of the ducklings. A galvanized pipe is inserted into the pan, filled with expanded clay concrete, and air is blown in.

This video presents a forge made by hand with minimal investment. A detailed story from the master about how he made this forge.

The next video is about a quick and cheap way to make a forge with your own hands. Available to everyone and inexpensive materials for production: bricks, metal bracket, wire, pump from a rubber boat.

The forge is indispensable in workshops and forges for creating steel products by forging hot metal at temperatures up to +1200°C. There are many different models with a simple design and for different types of fuel with different characteristics. How not to make a mistake in choosing them and build them correctly?

Structurally, the forge consists of the following elements:

base made of non-flammable material and having high strength;
fireproof table;
fuel chamber with grate;
air chamber and drainage;
inlet air duct;
air valve for adjusting air supply;
tent-shaped chambers;
opening for feeding long workpieces;
bugle umbrella;
gas-air chamber;
baths for hardening workpieces;
chimney for removal of combustion products;
removable furnace.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of the forge is based on the chemical reaction of combustion of carbon, which, when reacting with oxygen, forms carbon dioxide with the release of heat. In addition, metal recovery occurs, which is a very important aspect for the formation of homogeneous, high-strength parts.

To maintain an optimal level of combustion and temperature, air ducts and air chambers are installed inside the fuel chamber, which forcefully pump pure oxygen. Due to this, it is possible to obtain temperatures above +1000°C, which are unattainable with conventional combustion of solid fuel (coal or wood).

At the same time, using the inflation technology, the volume of air is selected so that there is always a slight lack of oxygen for the oxidation reaction to occur. In other words, it is necessary to select an operating mode to prevent metal combustion.

The time the smelted part remains in the furnace should also be limited, since in an atmosphere of carbon dioxide the metal will begin to react with it and form a high-strength alloy with increased fragility. These negative consequences can be avoided by introducing additional oxygen into the chamber in such an amount that carbon dioxide has time to completely react.

Purpose and uses

A DIY forge is made depending on its main application and can be configured accordingly for specific tasks. Therefore, it is important to understand what each of its structural parts are intended for:

a firebox with a grate, an air chamber, a valve and a pipe are used to burn fuel and heat the metal workpiece; depending on the temperature requirements, they can have an open or closed design, and also not be equipped with air pressurization;
air drainage is used to regulate the supply of oxygen and prevent embrittlement of the metal, allows you to create optimal conditions when heating and melting the workpiece;
a tent or umbrella with a chimney is used to remove carbon monoxide and other combustion products that can harm human health;
a quenching bath is necessary for rapid cooling of the metal and its acquisition of optimal plastic and strength properties;
a heat-resistant cap or crucible, used to expand the zone of uniform heating, which makes it possible to effectively melt metal (usually non-ferrous precious metals) in a crucible;
gas-air chamber, used for drying air, purifying it from impurities, as well as for introducing alloying elements, designed to produce high-quality products with specified characteristics in accordance with a specific reference diagram of states and phases;
the table serves to place all the elements of the forge on it, as well as for partial cooling of the workpieces; it is a mandatory part of the design.

The forge is used for the following purposes:

heating the metal for subsequent forging or other types of processing;
melting in special forms;
heat treatment to improve certain properties.

Classification of forges

Before making a forge, you need to familiarize yourself with their classification in order to select the most suitable design option. Classification is carried out according to the following criteria:

by type of fuel used;
by type of construction;
according to hearth size.

Types of forges by type of fuel used

According to the type of fuel used, forges are divided into the following types:

gas;
solid fuel;
on liquid fuel.

Solid fuel forge

Gas furnaces have the simplest design and are cheap to repair and maintain. They are characterized by minimal weight, which allows them to be made portable or compact.

Solid fuel furnaces are distinguished by the ability to obtain the highest possible heating temperatures, the relatively low cost of building materials for construction and ease of operation. For their kindling, it is permissible to use the following types of fuel:

carbon or coke, characterized by high cost and increased efficiency (consumption is up to 5 times less than coal), it does not contain foreign impurities, ignites at temperatures above +450°C;
Coal, the most common and efficient fuel, emits coke gas when burned, so when lighting it is necessary to wait until it has completely evaporated; it is suitable for forging various decorative elements or parts of medium quality;
charcoal has a minimum ignition temperature compared to other types of fuel, but it burns out quickly and is characterized by increased consumption, so it is effectively used for kindling.

It is permissible to use diesel fuel, fuel oil or waste oil as liquid fuel. At the same time, it is important to pre-clean it, since the presence of impurities will cause an unstable flame and release of harmful compounds into the atmosphere.

This also makes it difficult to maintain equipment due to frequent blockages.

Classification by design features

A homemade forge can be classified according to its design features as follows:

by installation method: portable or stationary;
according to the design of the combustion chamber: closed or open type;
according to the placement of the boost: with a side or central nozzle.

Types of forges by hearth size

There are different sizes of hearth forges: small, medium and large. They are determined by the operating efficiency of the installation and completely depend on the intensity of fuel consumption and operating modes of the fuel chamber. The optimal efficiency of fuel flow rate is from 1 to 1.5 m/s.

The productivity of the forge is directly proportional to the amount of tension and hearth area. In this case, the minimum tension is considered to be in the range from 100 to 150 kg/m 2 h. Values outside this range are not economically viable.

How to make a blacksmith's forge?

Before you make a forge with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools. This will minimize time costs

Instructions for creating a solid fuel mobile forge

Before starting work, you must collect the following tools:

welding machine;
drill;
file;
set of wrenches;
putty knife;
roulette;
level;
clamp;
marker;
Bulgarian

Having prepared a drawing of a forge, you need to purchase materials for its construction:

sheet steel 2-3 mm thick (recommended 09G2S);
swivel wheels 4 pcs.;
square profile pipes with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm;
refractory cement;
air snail;
fastening elements: bolts and nuts;
stainless steel pipe along the diameter of the volute outlet;
adapter.

A mobile open-type coal forge is manufactured step by step as follows:

We take a steel sheet and mark it with a marker according to the size of the desktop.
We cut out the tabletop with a grinder and clean the edges with a file.
We mark a rectangular hole on the cut sheet for the mouth of the forge and cut it with a grinder.
We take the second steel sheet and mark the elements of the parts for the trapezoidal mouth of the forge.
We cut out the vent elements and then weld them into a single structure.
We weld the muzzle to the working surface of the table in the place of the cut hole.
We turn the structure over with the mouth down, mark the places for the location of the walls for the placement of coals.
We cut out the sides for the working surface of the table from steel.
We weld the sides so that there are no gaps at the seams, and the seam itself is strong and continuous, we accurately center the structural elements.
For the lower part of the vent, we cut out the walls from steel for supplying air ducts, and then weld them.
We make a removable bottom for the vent, designed to remove ash.
We attach the pedal to it using levers.
On the wall for supplying a pipe with air, we make a hole along the diameter of the pipe.
We cut out elements from steel profile pipes and weld a frame for fastening the working surface.
At the bottom of the frame we weld a bar for attaching the snail, and then fasten it with bolts.
We prepare the pipe for the air duct.
We attach the air duct to the cochlea and the vent; if necessary, we provide additional fastening to strengthen the structure.
We attach swivel wheels to the bottom of the frame with bolts.
We coat the joining seams with fireproof putty.
We form a refractory layer on the working surface of the hearth based on refractory cement mortar.

A coal forge must be tested by heating it to operating temperatures, but only after the cement layer has completely hardened.

Step-by-step instructions for making a gas forge

To make a gas forge, you need to prepare the following materials in advance:

fire brick;
sheets of heat-resistant steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm;
thin stainless steel sheets (thickness up to 2 mm) for external cladding;
steel profile pipes;
chimney pipes made of stainless steel;
fireproof putty;
standard burners used in gas heating boilers;
fan for pumping air.

You will also need the following tools:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
drill;
file;
roulette;
marker.

A gas forge is manufactured in the following sequence:

We take refractory bricks and build the body of the forge out of them. If necessary, we process the ends with a grinder with a special attachment for concrete to ensure a tight joint.
In the front part of the structure we create a small step made of refractory bricks, designed to maintain the optimal temperature.
We make a rectangular hole in the back for ventilation.
We make a base from a thick sheet of steel to the size of the brick body of the forge.
We weld profile pipes at the end parts of the sheet so that the bricks inside them are motionless.
In the side of the combustion chamber we cut a hole for supplying a gas pipe with an installed burner.
We cut out the upper part for the forge from thick sheet steel.
We weld the corners of the body at the bottom and top.
We drill one hole in the corners and tighten the lower and upper parts of the forge with pins.
We cut out a stand for the forge from profile pipes, and then weld all the parts in accordance with the drawing.
We install the forge on the stand.
We attach a pipe to the chamber to remove combustion products.
We place a gas burner inside the chamber and attach it to the point of entry into the chamber.
The outside of the body is sheathed with thin-sheet steel, having previously cut out parts with the required dimensions from the sheets. We weld all seams with a continuous seam.

Making your own forge is not only an inexpensive and relatively uncomplicated process, but also allows you to get an installation for specific needs.