How to clean the soot in the stove. How to remove soot from your stove

It is still too early to write off stove heating - it is actively used to this day by a huge number of people around the world, in cities and in rural areas, in poor regions and in quite wealthy and prosperous countries. Moreover, to some extent we can say that home autonomous heating facilities are experiencing a "rebirth", since both stoves and fireplaces are rapidly becoming fashionable, and few suburban construction of a modern mansion can do without them.

To get at your disposal a desired one or a fireplace is far from everything. Such structures are always objects of increased danger, and therefore it is extremely important to be able to properly operate them. With the order of burning stoves in the conditions of everyday use, with the types of firewood needed for them - the owners get to know this quickly enough. But what is surprising is that a negligible number of owners know how to clean a chimney with their own hands, and even fewer did it in practice.

This situation is by no means normal. The safe operation of stoves and fireplaces in residential premises for a good half depends on the serviceability and correct operation of the chimney system. Forgetting about this, careless owners endanger life and health and own, and their loved ones risk the safety of their homes and acquired property.

A bit of theory and and history

What causes blockages in chimneys

Why do build-ups form on the pipe walls that require regular cleaning?

The first factor is due to the most commonplace reasons - the burning of wood itself. This is a rather complex physicochemical process, which consists of several stages. Depending on the type of stoves (fireplaces, boilers), on the location and configuration of internal channels for the removal of combustion products, on the design, on the type of firewood used and their quality (or other fuel), both the quantity and completeness of combustion stages (flame phase or phase of decay), which can change one or the other several times.

- So, in the smoldering mode, they mainly burn T the hard ingredients are coals. At the same time, gaseous products may be too low in concentration - this happens at the beginning of the furnace, until the optimum temperatures are reached, and the process of evolving combustion pyrolysis gases has not yet been started "at full". These combustion gases condense quickly, so the combustion at this stage is accompanied by the release of thick white smoke.

- In the mode of active flame combustion, it is the pyrolysis gases that become the main source of heat. As the temperature rises, the color of the flame changes (to close to bright white), and the smoke becomes almost invisible. But gradually their concentration decreases, and with one laying of firewood, the violent flame is soon replaced by the stage of smoldering, for the reason that the gases have already escaped, and the amount of combustible substances becomes less and less.

Be that as it may, in any case, a lot of combustion products come out into the chimney. Mainly with incomplete combustion, they become soot (small carbon particles), complex organic compounds, resins, carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide). Almost all of these products are flammable and, under certain conditions, can even form explosive mixtures.

At the stage of complete combustion, the content of organic matter in the smoke drops sharply, and water vapor, carbon dioxide and sulphurous gases become the main products at the inlet.

From the point of view of chimney clogging, the greatest problems are the smoke, which is maximally saturated with incompletely burnt carbon residues (ash), heavy resins. Therefore, it is very important to know how to choose the optimal ones correctly - not all wood is suitable for these purposes, both in terms of its specific heat transfer and biochemical composition, that is, in terms of the concentration of heavy resinous substances. Coniferous wood is always distinguished by increased resinousness. By the way, not only this feature makes them undesirable for use in everyday life - just look at the table to see how much they lose in terms of density and heat transfer to firewood from deciduous trees.

Wood species	Density limit wood (kg / dm³)	Average density accepted for calculations (kg / dm³)	Working volumetric calorific value of wood (kcal / dm³)
Oak	0,690-1,03	0.81	3240
Ash	0,520-0,950	0.75	3000
Rowan (tree)	0,690-0,890	0.73	2920
Apple tree	0,660-0,840	0.72	2880
Beech	0,620-0,820	0.68	2720
Acacia	0,580-0,850	0.67	2680
Elm	0,560-0,820	0.66	2640
Larch	0,470-0,560	0.66	2640
Maple	0,470-0,560	0.65	2600
Birch	0,510-0,770	0.65	2600
Pear	0,610-0,730	0.65	2600
Chestnut	0,600-0,720	0.65	2600
Cedar	0,560-0,580	0.57	2280
Pine	0,310-0,760	0.52	2080
Linden	0,440-0,800	0.51	2040
Alder	0,470-0,580	0.5	2000
Aspen	0,460-0,550	0.47	1880
Willow	0,490-0,590	0.46	1840
Spruce	0,370-0,750	0.45	1800
Pussy willow	0,420-0,500	0.45	1800
Hazelnut	0,420-0,450	0.43	1720
Fir	0,350-0,600	0.41	1640
Poplar	0,390-0,590	0.4	1600

Resinous substances get onto the inner surfaces of the pipe with smoke, becoming an excellent "glue backing" for adhesion of soot deposits.

But that's not all. Regular use of freshly cut, damp or improperly stored firewood is fraught with danger. The increased moisture content of the wood is the reason for the abundant condensation on the walls of the pipe, on which they also "fit" very well going up the smallest particles of soot.

Raw firewood, and even conifers - you can't think of worse for a stove!

Everything would still be nothing, but in our time, many homeowners consider the stove also as a "universal waste disposal unit." This means that a large amount of household waste is sent to the firebox. It turns out that a huge amount of polymers, food waste, and other substances pass through the furnace, which, when burned, give whole "bunches" of a variety of fats, resins, ethers, non-combustible solid particles, which very quickly lead to overgrowth of the pipe lumen.

A factor stimulating frequent blockages in the chimney may be the work performed by the stove-maker of poor quality. Narrowing of the pipe channel, too many turns or wrong angle, mortar residues on the inner surface of the wall, etc. - all this provokes the build-up of soot waste in such places. In addition, poor thermal insulation of the chimney or ill-conceived, not consistent with the order scheme, the thickness of the pipe walls can lead to excessive condensation formation - and this is another step towards an emergency.
It cannot be ruled out that some birds decided to build nests in the pipe unprotected from above by a cap in the summer, when the stove is not in use. In addition, accidental debris such as dead leaves can enter the pipe. With such little things, it would seem that sometimes it is quite difficult to grow punch-through plugs.
The soot accumulating on the walls can, under the influence of any external reasons, peel off in a whole piece and fall down. If the fragment is large enough, then it often happens that it gets skewed in the pipe cavity, and then a full-fledged blockage quickly grows on the basis of this "bridge".

What is the danger of clogging chimneys

There are many reasons, but whatever the cause of the clogging, it is fraught with many very serious threats:

Constricted chimney gaps sharply reduce the draft, and therefore the reverse movement of smoke is very likely - in the room, from the combustion chamber. In addition to the fact that smoke is unpleasant in itself, the threat of carbon monoxide poisoning increases sharply.
Low draft leads to an increase in the volume of condensation falling on the inner surfaces of the pipe, that is, further clogging of the chimney can go even faster, like an avalanche.

Thick soot is strong enough thermal insulator, which does not allow the oven channels to heat up to the desired temperature. Such a situation always, without exception, leads to a drop in the efficiency of the heating device, to excessive consumption of the fuel used.
Soot is unburned solid residues, but this does not mean that they are non-combustible. On the contrary, a thick layer of soot deposits under certain conditions can easily become involved in a flame, for example, from sparks rising with a stream of gases. This leads not only to the burnout of the pipe walls - the vulnerability of the whole house increases sharply. This situation is one of the main causes of fires in buildings equipped with ovens.

An eerie picture - a sheaf of glowing sparks from a chimney

The chimney overgrown with soot becomes a real fire hazard for neighboring buildings as well - from such an uncleaned chimney, "fiery tails" - sheaves of red-hot solid particles of soot very often fly out.

Such situations are described without any exaggeration. All these troubles can occur in a complex, almost simultaneously, and the consequences are sometimes the most tragic. This is why you should never forget about regular inspections and cleaning.

How often do you need to clean

Cleaning a pipe heavily "overgrown" with soot is an extremely difficult task. The best thing is not to bring it up to this, but regularly carry out inspections and preventive cleaning of the chimney.

The name of the preventive measure and the type of equipment	Frequency of work
*Preventive inspections of the condition of the chimney and chimney ducts of furnaces*
Checking any equipment	Immediately after installation, before commissioning, or after any repair work
Inspection of any equipment operating on a seasonal basis	Just before the start of the heating season
Checking the chimney systems of gas ovens and boilers	At least twice a year during the first two years of operation, then at least once a year.
Checking brick chimneys - regardless of the type of stove or boiler
Inspection of asbestos-cement, heat-resistant concrete or ceramic chimneys	At least once a year
Chimneys of heating and heating-cooking stoves	At least three times a year - before the start of the heating season, during it, and at the end
Cleaning of chimney ducts in pipes - as soon as deficiencies are identified during inspections, and in addition, during the period of active operation:
In heating and heating-cooking furnaces	At least once every three months
Continuous ovens	At least once every two months
In constantly used kitchen ovens	At least once a month
*In regions with severe winters with low temperatures, chimney heads are checked at least twice a month to prevent the ice crust from freezing and forming a blockage.*

That it is necessary to do this is probably already clear to everyone. But who will do it?

Where to find a chimney sweep?

But this is a problem in our time, and no small one. There are not so many chimney sweeps - professionals, in the understanding that was invested in this concept for several centuries.

By the way, the need for the emergence of such specialization in the Middle Ages is directly related to the massive urban fires that from time to time shook many densely populated European cities and literally destroyed them to the ground. Awareness of the direct relationship between the risk of fires and the state of chimneys came, understanding the importance of qualified maintenance of furnaces and pipes. And already in the 17th - 18th centuries, first in the German principalities, and then in other countries of Northern Europe, guilds (workshops) of specialists - chimney sweeps appeared. And in Denmark, for example, this was even carried out by royal decree, which once again proves the importance attached to their work.

By the way, this is one of those professions with which the largest number of all sorts of superstitions is associated, it will also accept prejudices, urban legends and amazing hardly believable stories.

On the one hand, the chimney sweeps, always smeared with soot from head to toe, were like outcasts, who were even forbidden to move on the sidewalks for the "pure public". But on the other hand, all representatives of this profession have always been distinguished by a rather elegant look - a fitted short jacket with certainly shiny buttons and a wide leather belt, and an obligatory headdress - a top hat. Rumor has it that, perhaps, the tradition of wearing a top hat went not only from the desire to look "imposing" - it was just that a lot of devices and accessories necessary for work were placed in this voluminous high headdress. In addition, it could serve as a good shock absorption when, for example, a brick falls on the head.

The activities of the chimney sweeps sometimes aroused some mystical feelings - they were often attributed to closeness with "evil spirits", they frightened naughty children, they often figured in folklore works - legends, songs, ballads, etc. A characteristic feature - very often the plot was based on the fact that under the mask of a chimney sweep smeared with soot some exile or a once-lost child of "blue bloods" is hiding.

For all the wariness towards the representatives of this profession, they were rather very respectful towards them. And in many countries it is still believed that touching a chimney sweep, while staining your finger with soot, is a sure sign of imminent good luck.

Monuments to chimney sweeps have been erected in many cities of Central and Northern Europe. These specialists are in high demand there even now. There are even special schools, the study in which, by the way, takes several years and includes, in addition to narrowly technological areas, many special related disciplines, including mathematics, physics, fundamentals of architecture, ecology and even economics.

True, the "weapons" of a modern chimney sweep are much richer than before. And most importantly, devices have appeared that allow telemetric inspection of pipe channels in order to quickly find the main areas of contamination and remotely monitor the process of their cleaning.

And where to find a good specialist in our area?

Well, first of all, you can search the regional periodicals in the service announcement sections. By the way, competent specialists- chimney sweeps are highly valued and their names and contacts must be known locally.
Secondly, in many cities, regional centers and tp... specialized firms have been created and are operating - enterprises engaged in the maintenance of furnace and boiler equipment. Surely, one of the types of services provided is the audit, repair and cleaning of chimneys.
And thirdly, if all this is not in local conditions, or if there is simply no desire to attract someone from the outside, you will have to learn the basic cleaning techniques on your own.

Mechanical manual chimney cleaning

For a long time, the main method of servicing chimneys was their mechanical cleaning, and, therefore, brushes, brushes, heavy cores on cables, scrapers, brooms and other devices became the main tools of chimney sweeps. Tellingly, all these tools and technological methods of working with them have not undergone any significant fundamental changes to this day.

Cleaning from the roof side

Cleaning tool

So, to clean the chimney channel from above, from the side of the roof, it is usually used rope(rope) on which they are attached (tied or fastened on carbines) hard brushes for cleaning the walls from soot and a massive weighting agent - traditionally, a cast-iron core with an eyelet was used for this.

Classic chimney sweep tool - rope with core and brush

The heavy load (core) has a twofold function. By the force of its gravity, the brush-ruff (one or even several) moves in the chimney channel from top to bottom. But in case of severe blockages, the chimney sweep in the first place punches the canal with the core, using it as a percussion instrument. Only after the passage of the channel has been achieved can the brushes be started up.

The round shape of the core is very convenient in the sense that the risk of its jamming in any tight, soot-overgrown sections of the chimney is minimal. However, this is not at all a dogma, and craftsmen use other available weights when making a homemade tool. The main thing is that the suspended object is well centered, so that it does not become skewed anywhere.

Above the core, brushes are fastened in one or two tiers.

Modern brushes can be made of plastic or have a long metal bristle. (Metal brushes are strictly forbidden to use on chimneys mounted on stainless steel pipes). They differ in shape: most of them are round, but you can find special brushes for a rectangular chimney.

Above and below the brushes are equipped with rings for assembling them into a common structure - for attaching a cable or other circuit elements - additional brushes and a core.

There are also models of long brushes designed for quick and high-quality cleaning of straight cylindrical chimneys. Plastic or metal pile in such products can be arranged in a spiral.

If desired, you can find ready-made "chimney sweep kits" in specialized stores. They are completed for a certain diameter of the chimney and include all the elements necessary for cleaning from above - a rope (cable), a weight, a set of brushes and carabiners.

If such a device is assembled on its own, then the brush can be purchased at the store. But, apparently, there are situations when it is not possible to buy it for some reason at the moment. If the chimney needs urgent cleaning, but there is no brush, you can make it yourself, taking old plastic bottles as a starting material.

Miniature	Description of the work process
	An ordinary plastic bottle is taken, cut in two so that the upper part is about 150 mm in height. The cuts are made on the walls with a step of about 15 mm. The length of the incisions depends on the diameter of the chimney to be cleaned. You need to orient yourself so that with the bent petals, the diameter of the resulting brush is 30 - 40 mm larger than the size of the chimney.
	A hole is drilled in the cork (in the center) through which the rope will pass.
	After the petals are cut and bent, the cork is drilled and screwed into place, you get something like a homemade brush. It is necessary to make two such brushes - they will be located symmetrically, towards each other.
	Any massive object (in this case, an old bronze doorknob) can be used as a load. The weight of the load must be sufficient to allow the brush to pass down through the flue duct.
	A strong cord is securely tied to the load and then passed through the hole in the plugs of both brushes.
	In order for the lower and upper brushes with the "pile" directed towards each other to be located at a distance from each other (from 150 to 200 mm), a glass of the appropriate height must be inserted inside this collecting brush. To do this, a cylinder is cut out of the remaining part of the bottle, cut lengthwise, and installed between the brushes. It is given a diameter of about half that of brushes, after which it is fixed with an ordinary stationery stapler. Then it remains to tie the fixing knot over the plug of the upper brush - and the tool is almost ready for work!

This approach, by the way, is quite justified in country houses, where the furnace is fired not so often, and buying a professional tool or calling a specialist is simply unprofitable. And a home-made brush can do a task just as well as a factory one. And it is not necessary to store it - you can always cut out a new one in a few minutes.

Video: another option for making a homemade "ruff"

How to clean

Before starting cleaning, be sure to close all inspection hatches on the chimney. It is necessary to provide for any measures that will prevent the cleaned out soot from falling out of the stove or fireplace onto the floor and onto interior items in the premises. For example, a hearth or combustion chamber is additionally covered with a wet cloth.
Roof-side cleaning must be carried out with the obligatory observance of special precautions, especially if the roof has a steep slope. Fall insurance is provided. On the feet should be closed shoes with non-slip soles. Be sure to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from the ingress of soot or other particles. Protect hands with gloves. It is probably advisable to cover the skin of the face and hair, since the soot is rather difficult to wash off. Such work should not be carried out in rain or strong wind. Naturally, it is strictly forbidden to start such operations in a not quite sober state, tired, under the influence of certain medications.

Cleaning begins with removing the umbrella (or other pipe head). Examine the entire visible part of the canal, if necessary, clean it of debris and layers with a scraper, a broom, and other improvised tools.
Next, a test pass is made with the kernel. If large layers come across, then the load should help to cope with them - to chop them off so that they crumble down.
After the load has shown the passage of the channel to the required depth, brushes are installed above the core, and the process of cleaning the walls from soot begins. The principle is simple, the work is rather tedious and dirty. The bottom of the brush moves under the weight of the load, and upward - when pulled with a rope. Slowly, in small sections, the walls are being cleaned from the top and to the entire possible depth.
From time to time, the inspection chambers on the chimney are checked - they are cleaned of soot that has fallen from above. Their complete cleaning will be carried out at the end of the work.

Instead of a rope with a load, more and more often nowadays, long flexible shafts with a brush winding on them or collecting rods are used. These tools are more versatile, as they allow you to clean chimneys from below, from the side of the stove (fireplace). Let's consider them below.

Chimney cleaning from the stove side

A tool with a groove is effective only until the first serious turn - even at an angle of 45 ° the passage will be problematic, and with a rectangular one it is guaranteed to stall.

To carry out cleanings, if the constitution of the furnace is well thought out, there should be special vents and hatches that allow cleaning tools to be brought into the pipe cavity without resorting to disassembling it. But here only the force of gravity is no longer an assistant, but quite the opposite. And in order to push the brush inside the chimney, it must be mounted on a rigid and at the same time flexible support.

For small areas, up to 3 - 5 meters, you can purchase a special set in the store - one or more brushes and a flexible fiberglass rod with a handle at the end.

Such a device is quite multifunctional. They use it, changing only brushes of different diameters, for cleaning ventilation systems, small sections of chimneys, sewers.

A more professional approach is a special tool in which a flexible shaft of a much larger diameter is wound on a drum. The dimensions of the areas to be cleaned are certainly much larger. The flexible shaft is usually marked with markings to accurately track the depth of entry of the brush into the pipe.

Finally, it can be prefabricated rods, which are screwed to one another as the brush moves deeper into the chimney.

On sale you can find similar kits, complete with the required number of rods made of fiberglass, and brushes of the required diameter - plastic and metal.

The rods are usually 1 m long each, equipped with threaded adapters for mutual mounting with one another or for mounting a brush. As a rule, there are 10 such parts in a set.

The table below shows an example of how to clean an outside chimney using this kit:

Miniature	Description of the work process
	A properly assembled external chimney at its lowest point necessarily has a plug with a condensate collector, a valve for draining it, for inspection. This is the most convenient place for cleaning.
	The plug is completely removed to open the passage into the cavity of the chimney. The removed part can be immediately cleaned of dirt, fallen soot, and other foreign objects.
	Since the stainless steel pipe will be cleaned, we put the metal brush included in the kit aside - in this case it cannot be used.
	A cleaning brush is screwed onto one of the rods included in the kit.
	The same operation - against the background of an open entrance to the chimney.
	The brush is inserted into the pipe cavity, cleaning begins. Performing translational frictional movements up and down, the brush is gradually moved up the chimney channel. It is impossible to make rotational (around the axis) movements, so as not to accidentally unscrew the assembled instrument.
	As necessary, in the course of work, the total length of the central rod is increased - new rods are screwed on.
	And this miniature demonstrates the highest flexibility of fiberglass rods. Thus, curved sections of the chimney lend themselves to a similar cleaning method (of course, up to a certain limit, but it will most likely be possible to cope with an angle of 45-60 degrees).

In the same way, cleaning of any part of the chimney is carried out, where it is possible to introduce a brush. This can be done when cleaning from the roof, from inspection hatches or directly from the firebox (a typical example is a conventional fireplace). Removing the brush from the pipe is carried out in the reverse order, with successive dismantling of the sections.

The soot removed from the surface of the walls is collected and removed - sometimes they connect to this stage. After a certain pause, 30-40 minutes, necessary for the cleaned soot to completely settle, all inspection hatches and valves are checked. After cleaning, it may be necessary to carry out minor repairs to the chimney - for example, to repair cracks or other defects on the outer surface. Be sure to re-install the pipe head.

By the way, a set of such rods is easy to make yourself, using polypropylene pipes for this. Their flexibility, of course, is not as high as that of carbon fiber reinforced plastic, but it may be quite enough for certain straight chimneys.

If there is, then the manufacture of such a set of rods will take just a few minutes. Cut the pipe (Ø 20 mm) into equal lengths (eg 1 meter), and weld ½ ”ordinary threaded fittings around the edges of each. It is clear that "dad" is welded on one edge, and "mom" is welded on the other.

Chemical cleaning of chimneys

Mechanical chimney cleaning is a very radical method that gives good results. But only this event is quite difficult and very dirty. Is it possible to simplify such cleaning? It turns out that it is possible, if you regularly carry out preventive work using special chemical agents.

The principle of their physicochemical action may be different, but aimed at common goals - the removal of already formed soot deposits from the inner wall of the pipe and the creation of conditions for the longest possible prevention of new soot adhesion. Let's take a closer look at several of these tools:

"Smoke"

Products of the Russian company "Ecolais" are manufactured under this brand. The assortment is represented by three different products:

Special box "Smoke"

The principle of operation of such a cardboard box cleaner is extremely simple. It is simply installed in a combustion chamber (in a fireplace or stove) and set on fire. The entire cleaning process takes about an hour and a half. The chemicals included in the preparation in the box actively cleanse soot deposits, transform resinous components, make them brittle and saline on their own. As a result, the growths either crumble down, or go out, carried away by the smoke, outside.

Smoke cleaner in the form of a box

By the way, the active effect of such cleaning is not at all limited only by the burning time of the package - it lasts for two weeks, and the pronounced effect will be noticeable for at least three months.

Log "Smoke"

If the agent described above is purely prophylactic, then the log cleaner will add an aesthetic component to the process.

More aesthetically pleasing - to use the "Smoke" log

This cleaner is designed in the form of a regular log that can be used for heating or a stove. By the way, the metal salts included in its chemical composition give a very interesting visual effect - a beautiful turquoise flame.

Otherwise, the principle of operation remains the same.

Cleaner for pellet stoves and boilers "Smoke"

Manufacturers have provided for a cleaner in the form of granules, which helps to cope with the problems of contamination of the internal channels and chimneys of pellet boilers and stoves. This type of fuel has its own specific features, therefore, a special approach is needed to prevent such equipment.

This cleaning agent has been given the characteristic look of a conventional one - it is more convenient to mix them with the main fuel. But, by the way, you can use it in ordinary wood-burning stoves.

Usually, cleaning is carried out at intervals of once every two months. In a flight boiler, you need to mix 10 kilograms of purifier with a ton of natural pellets. If an ordinary stove is cleaned, then it will be enough to add a kilogram of granules daily, for 5 days, to the firewood during one of the furnaces.

Video: cleaning chimneys with Dymovoy brand products

Production of the companyHANSA

Technologists of the West German company HANSA, while developing preventive measures for heating devices, focused on combating creosote - resinous substances that interact with water vapor, and create the very sticky base on which soot actively settles.

The substances included in the preparations act in two ways. The former are aimed at active catalysis, so that carbon particles are burned as completely as possible, practically leaving no soot. Other substances react with creosote when exposed to high temperatures. In this case, the resinous structure loses moisture, and hence its viscosity. The remaining layer becomes brittle, brittle, it begins to crumble and almost completely burns out in the flame of the hearth.

On sale you can find several types of similar cleaners that in Russia they are better known under the "Chimney sweep" brand.

The upper miniature shows the "Chimney sweep" tool, made in the form of a free-flowing mixture. The set includes a measuring cup, with the help of which the dosage is carried out. The tool is used both for cleaning and for prophylaxis, adding, for example, 1 - 2 measuring cups for every 4 - 5 furnaces of a stove or fireplace. This approach allows you to be sure that soot will not accumulate in the chimney.
Below is the same product, but dosed in sachets. The use is the same as described above.
Medium miniature - Chimney sweep log in a package. In this form, it lays down in a heated combustion chamber, ignites and leaves until complete burnout. In order to keep chimneys clean at all times, it is recommended to carry out such preventive maintenance about once a month.

Cleaners "Chimney sweep" are suitable for all types of stoves and chimneys. Most importantly, they do an excellent job of cleaning the most difficult pipes in this regard - brick pipes, which often have an uneven porous wall surface.

« Kominichek "

This is also a very well-known and widely popular among Russians means for cleaning Czech chimneys.

Pre-packaged sachets of "Kominichek"

It is an istallic mixture packaged in sachets of 14 grams. Usually one such bag is designed for a kilogram of dry firewood. Chemical reagents convert the soot deposits that have settled on the pipe walls into a substance that burns even at low temperatures. This can be attributed to the merits of this drug. Disadvantages - its "power" will not be enough if the chimney is heavily running and the layer of soot on the walls is already more than 2 mm. And one more limitation - processing with the help of "Kominichek", due to the peculiarities of its chemical composition and, as a result, smell, can be carried out only with the door of the combustion chamber tightly closed. Thus, such a cleaner cannot be used in fireplaces with an open hearth.

There are many other tools - there are plenty to choose from

There are many other cleaners, soot and resin converters, etc., both domestic and foreign. You can take some of them for trial and choose the best option for yourself - both in terms of efficiency, ease of use, and cost.

Video: one of the means of chemical cleaning - "Cheerful chimney sweep"

Folk remedies for cleaning chimneys

There are many ways in which our ancestors with varying degrees of success fought against the phenomena of overgrowing of chimneys with soot. Surely, some of these folk methods were taken into account when creating modern chemical cleaners.

Let's remember a few popular "recipes":

Regular boiling water can be of immense help in breaking through very strong old soot blockages. Several liters of very hot water are poured from above into the pipe just before starting to light up the stove.

Boiling water will soften a little T hard build-ups, and the rising hot gaseous combustion products will destroy them, lead to the fact that soot will fly out in chunks along with the smoke.

One of the easiest ways is to add a small amount of common table salt to the wood. Sodium chloride vapors appear to have a destructive effect on viscous soot deposits.

True, this method is applicable only as a preventive measure. It will not help to cope with old, even small build-ups of soot.

Unexpectedly, but naphthalene also helps in this matter. A standard tablet of this substance, thrown into a melted hearth, becomes an excellent preventive and cleansing agent. The soot begins to flake off and come out with the smoke.

The method is proven, but, alas, not without flaws. And the main one is that naphthalene has a very persistent smell, which is very difficult to get rid of, and which is not pleasant to everyone.

Don't throw away potato peels - they are a very effective remedy for soot build-up in your chimney. From time to time, it is useful to pour peelings or even just finely chopped raw potatoes into a fully heated oven.

An old folk way - burning potato peelings in an oven

Rising fumes with a high starch content soften the structure of the soot build-up. Some of them will fall off. And the rest will be much easier to clean mechanically.

For a long time, a mixture of coal, saltpeter and "blue stone" - copper sulfate, has been actively used to clean chimneys. The composition is made in the proportions:

- copper sulfate - 5 parts;

- powdered coal (better - coke) - 2 parts;

- saltpeter - 7 parts.

A lot of such a mixture is not needed at all - about 20 grams per hundred kilograms of firewood is enough. The composition is poured into an oven preheated to the optimum mode, then the door of the firebox is very tightly closed. It is forbidden to carry out such cleaning in open-type hearths.

Finally, one of the most famous cleaning methods is the use of special firewood for this purpose. So, it was noticed that the fumes released during the combustion of aspen or alder contribute to the detachment of soot carbon from the walls of the chimney, and a very large, but short-term heat allows the residues to go out with smoke or burn out in the firebox.

Alder firewood - usually stands out against the general background with bright colors on the cut

It is interesting that neither alder nor aspen firewood can in any way be ranked as a high-quality type of fuel for heating premises, or - the heat transfer from them is small. But having a stock of such wood is still very useful. Occasionally, for prevention purposes, you can complete the furnace by sending a few kilograms of alder or aspen into it. True, in this case, you need to ensure that the sparks, often flying out of the chimney during such a procedure, do not cause a fire on neighboring buildings.

So, there are a lot of tools for prophylaxis and regular cleaning of the chimney. It is the responsibility of every homeowner to keep the stove in good working order and in a safe condition. And it is up to him to decide whether to call the chimney sweep master or do everything on his own. The main thing is not to forget to do this, to make such events a priority. And, of course, strictly follow the recommendations for the correct operation of the furnaces - then you will not have to turn to cleaning questions so often.

If you decide to clean the stove chimney from the wells, the pictures will help you better understand the process. How effectively a wood-burning stove works depends on the condition of the chimney. Pipe cleaning is required if smoke does not escape. Stove-makers say that if the construction is done correctly, it stays clean for many years.

The stove should be heated with dry wood, there should not be a lot of tar in them. Ash must be regularly removed from the blower; garbage must not be burned in the firebox. If you follow these rules, then it is enough to check the chimney structure 2 times a year. The treatment process depends on how much the pipe is soiled with soot. Chimney cleaning is required when poor draft is observed.

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The clearance of the pipe is reduced when soot settles on its walls. The thrust is reduced, and the smoke accumulates, because it is difficult to get out. Instead of heading outside, it enters the interior. Plaque does not allow the brick to warm up well, the efficiency of the furnace is noticeably reduced. People in the room can be poisoned by carbon monoxide.

The oven will work for a long time if it is cleaned in time. Remember that soot can ignite in the stove when exposed to high temperatures. When the walls of the chimney crack, sparks entering the room can start a fire.

You must first purchase the following tools:

You will need a large diameter brush, it is best to buy a metal product.
A brush will be needed to work. It should be rigid, which will help to quickly remove carbon deposits from the inner walls of the pipe. It is very good if the tool is equipped with flexible holders.
Buy a bucket and scraper.
For self-cleaning of the pipe, special products will be needed.

Stove makers, cleaning wells, often choose folk methods. The most popular is the use of salt, it is poured onto the wood during the combustion process. Note that salt is most commonly used to prevent soot formation.

How to clean the pipe? You can remove soot on the walls of the chimney by using waste in the form of potato peelings. The oven must be heated well, and then put in the flame. The steam that appears during the burning of the peel will break down the soot that enters the chimney. Large pieces will fall into the oven, after which it must be cleaned.

It should be noted that peeling potatoes is not a separate method. It is only an aid in soot softening. After carrying out preparatory work, you must clean the chimney manually.

If you have aspen logs in store, the fireplace will be cleaned as soon as possible. Burn the wood (several batches will be needed). This method is not safe. The fact is that when burning aspen logs, a high temperature is created in the firebox. The soot starts burning in the chimney. If you plan to use this method, make sure the chimney does not crack at high temperatures. If there is a thick layer of soot on the walls of the pipe, then it is better not to risk it, but choose a simpler method.

What tools can you use?

Use preventive measures at regular intervals. This allows you to forget about the need to clean the oven soon. Prophylactic solutions are chemicals and are more often commercially available in the form of liquids. They are added to the ovens at the moment when the wood is burning. In this case, a gas is formed, which does not harm humans, but effectively affects the deposits.

The most effective remedies include the following:

Composition against soot. This powder is released specifically to clear smoke paths. It will have to burn in the package along with the wood. Before using, pay attention to the packaging, you should find instructions on it. The latter will indicate how much powder is required for 1 ton of fuel.
Kominichek. This product is suitable if the soot layer is low. It turns carbon deposits into oxide, and already it can be burned at a low temperature. The use of the substance is very simple. 1 bag should be placed in the stove when the wood is burning, after which the firebox door is tightly closed. The granules, under the influence of high temperature, release substances that dissolve the soot on the walls of the oven.
Log. This product looks like a small briquette. When the bar burns, volatiles are formed, which can reduce the thickness of deposits on the walls of the chimney. The remedy is very popular. After its application, the carbon deposit dries up and then crumbles into the furnace firebox. The substance reduces the risk of deposits formation, prolongs the service life of pipes. The briquette can be used in all types of fireplaces and fireplaces.

If you heat the stove 2-3 times a week, then it will be enough to burn 1 log every six months. If the fireplace is used daily, 2 briquettes will need to be used during 1 season. If you need to clean a wood-burning stove, which is used during the heating season, you will need to burn a log once every 3 months.

If the fireplace is large, it is better to clean it by burning 2 packs of the product. They must be thrown into the furnace one after another. In order to achieve maximum cleaning efficiency, the log must be placed on the hot coals left over from the previous time. If the element is off, light it.

The additives that the manufacturers have included in the briquette will be active for a couple of weeks. All this time, carbon deposits will fall into the furnace, breaking off from the walls of the chimney. The oven can be cleaned after 2 weeks. Be sure to inspect the chimney, pay attention to the condition of the knee. After that, you can clean it of debris. Be sure to treat the smoke damper.

Cleaning the oven by hand

If you do not want to deal with cleaning the oven, call a chimney sweep. The specialist will not only appreciate the traction, remove soot plaque, but also check the design. Of course, you can take care of your fireplace and chimney yourself. Pipe cleaning should be done as follows:

Start with preparation. Close all openings of the stove leading to the room (including the firebox door), then soot will not get into the room. If the firebox is open, hang a damp cloth over it.
Chimneys can only be cleaned in dry and calm weather. Be sure to use the elements of insurance when you work on the roof of the house.

If the stove is not in use for a long time, then you will need to make sure that birds do not build nests in the chimney. If you cannot remove the accumulated debris, then simply push it down. Use available means for this purpose.

The chimney must be cleaned if the soot layer is more than 2 mm. If it is less, then complete cleaning is not required. Alternative methods can be dispensed with. If the soot has laid down in a dense layer, then it is easy to remove it with a scraper. After that, you can additionally clean the walls of the chimney with a brush or run a brush over them.

In the process of working with the chimney, you may find that the tool does not go further. This means that you stumbled upon a congestion in the structure. Most often it is debris, but bricks that fell out of the collapsed masonry can also lie across the pipe. If you have not cleaned the pipe for a very long time, you may find this phenomenon. It is available to remove it using a heavy core. The device is made of steel.

The core is suspended from a rope and secured with a carabiner. The tool should cover about 70% of the pipe diameter. It must be carefully thrown into the chimney. Be sure not to touch the pipe walls with the tool.

The kernel will quickly remove the blockage, after which the cleaned chimney can be brushed again. Attachments that you plan to use should be connected with carabiners. Remember that the core cannot be replaced with sports kettlebells. Their center of gravity is displaced, products can get stuck in the pipe. To remove such objects, the structure will have to be dismantled.

Fireplaces that have a straight chimney can be cleaned not from the roof, but from the room. To do this, you need to buy a brush made of metal. The best product is the one that has a long handle.

After the work is completed, the firebox should be opened. Thoroughly clean the holes, brush away grime and dirt with a brush. Do not forget to process the blower, scoop out the ash from it. Remove carbon deposits from the pipe walls. You can use a vacuum cleaner for this.

Conclusion

If you want your oven to work well, you need to clean it. An excellent effect can be achieved using chemicals. Their regular use guarantees the trouble-free operation of the stove or fireplace.

Regular cleaning of chimneys of stoves and fireplaces from soot is a mandatory procedure, regardless of the frequency of use of the heater. Modern chemicals, proven folk remedies and special mechanical methods are suitable for these events.

The choice of the most effective technique depends on the level of pollution of the chimney channels and the desire of home owners to do everything on their own or, in the full sense of the word, without getting their hands dirty, entrust the work to professionals.

Are you planning to get rid of burning with your own hands, but do not know which of the ways to use? We will help you decide on the tactics of action. The article provides a detailed overview of the most effective methods, indicates the reasons for the rapid clogging of the chimney and indicates the timing of the cleaning measures.

Chimney flue clogging is a natural process that occurs as a result of combustion. Only part of the fuel, decaying into fractions, acquires a gaseous form and goes out, as an emission, into the atmosphere.

Other fragments with a heavier, denser structure take the form of a soot deposit and settle on the inner surface of the pipeline, over time, significantly deteriorating its throughput.

The chimney coming out of the roof must be closed with a special windproof cap. Then, during the period of seasonal downtime, a bird or wasp nest will not be built there, and in winter leaves, branches, ice and other foreign elements will not get inside.

The use of firewood from coniferous trees provokes clogging of the canals. The viscous resinous substances, contained in excess in the composition, form a powerful adhesive base and help to retain soot deposits on it.

Such contamination is difficult to clean with preparation and requires careful removal by means of mechanical devices.

Household waste, packaging containers, the remains of old furniture, textiles and other items that are not a fuel resource by definition, during combustion, emit caustic ester complexes, heavy carcinogens and resinous compounds.

Therefore, the burning of such human waste in the furnace of a stove or fireplace negatively affects the operation of heating equipment of any class.

All of them in the form of a dense, viscous sediment cover the inner surface of the pipes and create conditions for the retention of soot, soot and soot. The channel through which the gaseous elements escape into the atmosphere is narrowed to a minimum, the draft is overturned, and some of the smoke enters the living room.

The temperature in the room drops and the use of heating equipment becomes dangerous due to the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

They accelerate the clogging of the chimney channel with deposits of firewood from a recently cut, damp forest.

If the current moisture content of the log exceeds 12%, it is strictly forbidden to immediately throw it into the firebox. It must be thoroughly dried in a warm room for at least 1 week.

A damp log reduces the level of heat transfer by 35%, contributes to the rapid clogging of the smoke exhaust system, and eventually disables it.

Method # 3 - aspen wood to remove soot

Heating a stove or fireplace with aspen wood is a simple and rather effective cleaning procedure. Its convenience lies in the fact that you do not need to perform any additional actions. It is enough to place a wood-burning tab in the firebox, light a fire and wait for it to completely burn out.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

An interesting way to clean pipes that does not require climbing to the roof - simple, modern and effective.

Regular cleaning of chimney pipes and channels is a very necessary and useful procedure. It has a beneficial effect on the general condition of the heating system, restores the traction properties of the equipment and contributes to the economical consumption of the resource.

Preventive measures can be carried out as needed independently, strictly adhering to the instructions for the drugs and safety rules. In case of blockages or other more serious problems, it is better to use the services of an experienced professional.

Do you have personal experience of cleaning the chimney of a stove or fireplace? Please tell the readers what method of soot removal you have used. Leave comments, ask questions and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.

Everyone knows that the removal of fuel combustion products in stoves and fireplaces is carried out through the chimney. It is also designed to create a natural draft in the system, ensuring the efficiency of the combustion process. Those who have a stove are well aware that when the chimney passability decreases, serious problems arise in its operation, up to the occurrence of back draft.

In this case, instead of being taken out to the outside, smoke and soot enter the interior of the dwelling. In such a situation, urgent cleaning of the chimney is required, otherwise carbon monoxide poisoning is possible. Regular maintenance of the fume extraction system will help to avoid these situations. You can clean the chimney from soot in different ways, with which we will get acquainted.

You can clean the pipe neatly and even elegantly

Why is the chimney overgrown with soot

Fuel combustion is a process of its high-temperature oxidation in the presence of oxygen. If the temperature is not high enough or oxygen is low to maintain an efficient combustion process, soot is formed as a product of insufficient carbon oxidation. Visually, it is found in combustion products when black smoke comes out of the pipe. The main causes of soot are:

Using raw firewood as fuel. The combustion temperature in the firebox is reduced due to the consumption of thermal energy for drying firewood, as a result, soot is actively formed.
Plywood, chipboard and other similar materials contain glue. When it burns, the chimney clogs up very quickly, as when burning plastic bags and plastic.
A large amount of soot is formed when the natural chimney draft is reduced. This can occur due to the cover of the damper or insufficient height of the pipe itself, as well as when its permeability is reduced.

This is what the soot looks like on the inner surfaces of the pipe.

The type of wood used as fuel also influences the rate of soot overgrowth in the chimney. This process will most likely occur when burning coniferous wood, slower - deciduous, but they are much more expensive. Regardless of the type, it is imperative to make sure that only dry firewood gets into the firebox.

However, even if you choose the right fuel, you still have to clean the soot in the stove with your own hands from time to time.

Why you need to clean the chimney

The soot lifted by the upward flow of warm air is deposited on the inner walls of the pipe. The soot layer that thickens over time leads to rather serious disturbances in the operation of the heating system. These include:

reduction of natural draft due to narrowing of the smoke exhaust duct;
accelerated wear of the inner surfaces of the pipe walls;
decrease in the efficiency of the functioning of the furnace;
increasing the risk of fire inside the smoke exhaust ducts.

Such a "fireworks" of burning soot can lead to a fire

To prevent the occurrence of such unpleasant consequences, the pipe must be subjected to periodic cleaning. This procedure should be carried out at least once a year. This procedure is not pleasant, but it is simply necessary to clean the chimney and remove soot from it.

Methods for cleaning chimneys and stoves from soot

To learn how to clean the stove correctly and remove soot from it, it makes sense to study all the known ways to do this job. Since ancient times, the services of chimney sweeps were necessary for a large number of people, professionals in their field were respected in society. Since then and to the present, many methods have been invented for cleaning chimneys from soot. These primarily include the time-tested mechanical methods using special tools that have been used by professional chimney sweeps for decades.

Good results are obtained by burning off soot by the thermal method, but when using it, there is a danger of pipe cracking. You can clean the chimney without using special tools, using chemical means of folk invention or industrial development.

The work of a chimney sweep is not devoid of romance

Getting rid of soot with your own hands

The mechanical cleaning method is used in case of severe pollution of the chimney, when the soot layer exceeds two millimeters in thickness. In order to get rid of soot with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Made of plastic or metal chimney brush. Its diameter should be one and a half times the inner section of the pipe.
Flexible sanitary cable equipped with a comfortable handle. It can be replaced with a strong rope.
Long handled brush with stiff bristles. It should be possible to extend the length of the handle if necessary.
A metal core or weight attached to the ruff. These parts must be centered and have a diameter half the inner section of the chimney.

Chimney cleaning can be done from above or from the bottom of the fireplace or open firebox. When performing all manipulations on the roof (to prevent falling), use a safety rope and a sturdy ladder. The respiratory organs are protected with a respirator, gloves are put on the hands, and shoes with non-slip soles are on the feet. When working at heights, it is forbidden to consume alcoholic beverages and drugs that reduce the reaction rate and concentration.

Basic pipe cleaning tools

Before performing all procedures, it is necessary to allow time for the chimney to cool completely. The doors of the heating device in the living area are tightly closed to prevent soot from entering the house. The work begins with lowering a metal load, fixed on a flexible cable, into the chimney. This allows you to determine the distance to the blockage in order to clear it.

At the same time, one should try to keep the load along the central axis of the pipe section so as not to damage its walls.

A thick layer of carbon deposits from the inner surface of the chimney is preliminarily cleaned with a scraper on a long handle. The final cleaning is done with a brush with a metal core attached to it. If an open combustion chamber is provided for in the design of the furnace, cleaning the chimney is completed from below using a brush with stiff bristles or a brush on an extending telescopic handle. Last of all, using a vacuum cleaner, the furnace is cleaned of soot.

Chemical cleaners are a good helper

Chemical cleaners are good helpers in removing soot from the chimney. They handle even the most difficult dirt well. Specially selected reagents effectively remove thick layers. When burning on smoldering coals of a composition consisting of a mixture in equal parts of coke, saltpeter and copper sulfate, soot deposits fall off.

Chemicals are easy to use

The industry produces the so-called anti-carbonaceous chemical composition, which has a very strong effect. In no case should the dosage of the drug indicated on its packaging be violated, otherwise cracking of the chimney may occur. Before use, it is imperative to read the instructions for use and follow all the recommendations indicated there.

In the Czech Republic, a composition called "Kominichek" is produced, the active ingredient of which is copper chloride, therefore, when using it, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation in the living room, and even better to leave it. The frequency of processing is about three months with active operation of the stove or fireplace.

Domestic manufacturers produce natural aspen or birch logs impregnated with chlorine copper. It has an uncomplicated name: a log is a chimney sweep; when it is burned in the furnace, substances are released that destroy resinous deposits on the inner surfaces of the exhaust system. Given the relatively high cost of chemical cleaners, it is cheaper and easier to take preventive measures to reduce the formation of deposits and carry out mechanical cleaning on a regular basis.

Folk remedies for cleaning are not worse than chemistry

Folk remedies for cleaning work no worse than proprietary chemicals. The simplest and most affordable way is to clean the dirt in the chimney with potato peelings. To do this, burn about half of a bucket of dried potato peelings in the furnace. The starch contained in them softens tarry deposits, and they are easily removed mechanically. When burning, firewood sprinkled with rock salt releases sodium chloride vapors, destroying soot deposits on the walls of the chimney.

Samples of folk remedies for pipe cleaning

Combustion of aspen wood at the final stage of heating the stove is highly efficient. They have a high combustion temperature, and the exfoliated deposits burn out from the intense heat, while it is necessary to ensure that sparks do not fly out of the pipe. Birch logs peeled from bark have approximately the same effect when they are loaded into the combustion chamber.

An alternative to aspen firewood is walnut shells. They also have a very high combustion temperature, so no more than two liters of this material should be loaded into the furnace at a time. Walnut shells perfectly cleanses the chimney from tarry deposits. Common naphthalene is a good prophylactic agent. A tablet thrown into the fire helps to exfoliate the soot and release it along with the smoke, but the smell of naphthalene is extremely persistent and it is very difficult to get rid of it later.

By mixing seven parts of saltpeter, five parts of copper sulfate and two parts of coal, a so-called blue mixture is obtained. Approximately twenty grams of this mixture are poured into a well-heated furnace and the door of the combustion chamber is closed. It is not recommended to use this composition in furnaces with an open hearth.

As you can see, cleaning the pipe yourself is not at all shameful.

Some owners, without further ado, clean the chimney with an ordinary watering hose, preferably hard. It is pushed as far as possible into the chimney and performed several reciprocating movements. As a result, most of the dirt falls down: into a substituted bucket or other similar container.

An unusual but effective method is the burning of aluminum cans. They should be placed in a well-heated firebox with lots of hard coals. One can should burn out in about five minutes, and not just lie there, changing the color scheme. Vapors from burning aluminum have a good cleaning effect.

The extreme method using a chainsaw

Using a chainsaw is an extreme chimney cleaning method. A nozzle is put on the unit, working on the principle of removing sawdust from woodworking machines in the form of a snail. It turns out a kind of exhaust cannon, powered by a chainsaw motor. The flow of the extracted soot is oriented in the direction of the wind. A similar effect can be obtained using a vacuum cleaner with a reverse exhaust, but for its operation, you need to run an electric power cable to the roof.

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The following video has been carefully selected and will definitely help the perception of the above.

Periodic cleaning of stoves and chimneys from soot prolongs the life of the stove equipment and ensures safe operation. The fact is that a dirty chimney narrows the lumen and does not allow smoke to escape freely and at the required speed. Excessive soot can ignite from accidental sparks and cause a fire. Experts recommend checking chimneys twice a year, and if problems are found, immediately clean the chimneys.

Modern methods of cleaning the stove chimney

To clean the chimney from soot, it is not necessary to call a chimney sweep - every homeowner can cope with the task. Modern methods allow you to get this dirty work done quickly and effortlessly.

Chemical cleaning - a new approach to pipe cleanliness

Cleaning the oven with chemical means is not in any way associated with the profession of a chimney sweep plunging into a chimney. To get rid of dangerous deposits on the walls, it is enough to add a special agent to the fuel during the heating. The chemical reaction leads to the formation of substances that contribute to the decomposition and burnout of the soot.

How dry cleaning works

Cleansing products are sold in the form of powders, liquids, or briquettes. They are recommended to be used regularly, they prevent the "overgrowth" of complex smoke circulation channels, which are not so easy to reach with mechanical devices. Before use, be sure to read the instructions and strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
The most popular among the owners of stoves and fireplaces are preparations of the "Chimney sweep" series of Russian production and the Czech product "Kominichek". Also on sale you can find a powdery agent PCA (anti-carbon chemical composition), which gradually softens the soot and promotes its combustion and shedding into the furnace.

Chemicals are effective with a soot layer of no more than 2 mm

You can independently prepare an anti-carbonaceous chemical composition from five parts of copper sulfate, seven servings of saltpeter and two parts of coconut charcoal. 200 grams of an aggressive composition is distributed over hot, but already burnt out coals. The result is a corrosive gas that eats away at the soot.

Mechanical cleansing is an effective method and a guaranteed result

Mechanical cleaning of the chimney is required in cases where the check has revealed a strong blockage or foreign objects are found in the pipe. It is not recommended to arrange general cleaning if the soot layer is less than 2 mm - this can damage the walls.
Relatively dangerous work should be done in good weather without precipitation, be sure to secure yourself with a strong rope. The firebox and ash pan are preliminarily cleaned of soot, coal and firewood. The damper at the entrance to the chimney is removed, and all stove valves and doors are tightly closed to avoid dirt entering the premises.
First of all, the channels are carefully inspected for the presence of foreign objects - often debris flies into the pipe during a strong wind. In the fall, you can find a bird's nest inside. Any excess should be removed or pushed down with a pole, and then removed from the oven. In some cases, the blockages cannot be pushed through - when such difficulties arise, a heavy weapon is used - a special cannonball suspended from a strong rope.

The diameter of the ruff should slightly exceed the dimensions of the pipe

To clean the round pipe, take a ruff with a diameter slightly larger than the chimney and clean the channel with intensive movements from top to bottom. If there is a dense layer of soot, it is first removed with a mild scraper. Channels with square and rectangular cross-section are cleaned with brushes.

Ruff with weight for cleaning pipes

After completing work on the roof, they move into the house and clean the stove of soot, starting from the upper cleaning hole and moving to the blower and firebox. You can finish cleaning with a vacuum cleaner using all the available holes for access. Professionals choose a special technique for this, but an ordinary home assistant can also cope with small residues.
At the end of the mechanical cleaning, the chimney is carefully inspected for damage and the cracks are covered with clay solution.

Pollution prevention and folk cleaning methods

A correctly folded chimney will not be covered with soot if you use only high-quality fuel, do not burn garbage and household waste in the furnace. Most of the soot during combustion is formed by softwood firewood and damp logs.
Traditional methods of cleaning furnace equipment do not contain chemicals, but they are effective and safe:

Burn a bucket of potato peels or chopped and dried potatoes in the firebox. The starch in the tubers will soften the plaque and facilitate subsequent mechanical cleaning.
For prophylaxis, it is recommended to periodically add salt to the firebox - this will not only help keep the pipe clean, but also give the flame a beautiful shade.
Dry aspen logs are a natural soot destroyer and the best chimney orderly. The secret is that aspen produces special gases, strong flames and a powerful stream of smoke, pushing the deposits to the surface. For prophylaxis, aspen firewood can be added to the firebox along with other logs.

High-quality fuel is a guarantee of the cleanliness of the chimney

The first signal that the chimney is clogged is a change in smoke - it becomes denser and darker. When the duct is clogged, the flame takes on a dark orange tint. It is important to pay attention to alarms in time and start cleaning. If it is not possible to do this difficult work on your own, it is better to immediately contact a professional chimney sweep.