For covering wood with veneer (single-layer plywood), “SYNTHETIC JOINERY” glue is most suitable, since it forms a completely colorless seam. You can use casein glue. Polyvinyl acetate glues are less suitable due to low water resistance, and bone glue is simply inconvenient to work with; in addition, it forms a painted seam.
If glue is applied to both surfaces - both the wooden product and the plywood - the plywood will immediately curl into a tube, and when straightened, the joints of the individual plywood sheets will separate and small cracks will appear around them. Therefore, only the surface of the wooden product is coated with glue and dry plywood is placed on it. It is pressed with a load for 40 minutes so that the pressure in the seam reaches 6-8 kgf/cm2. The seam is completely cured within 6 hours.
When using “SYNTHETIC JOINERY” glue, which, as we have already said (see page 132), is two-component, you can not mix the resin and hardener in advance, but apply them to the product separately: first a layer of hardener solution, and then a layer resin. After this, dry plywood is applied and pressed down with a weight. The resulting adhesive seam is quite strong, but fragile. He withstands the action cold water, but in warm temperatures (60°C) it quickly collapses.
Decorative films made of polyvinyl chloride and laminated paper decorative plastic It is best to glue it to wood with rubber adhesives “ELASTOSIL-2”, “88N”, “KR-1”, “Zh-3” and “DUBOK” glue based on polyvinyl butyral.
It is useful to sand the underside of the film with fine sandpaper and degrease it with gasoline. Glue is applied to both surfaces to be glued, film or plastic is placed on wooden product, carefully “squeezing” it out of the seam air bubbles, and apply a load (about 3-4 kgf/cm2) for 20 minutes. If you use “OAK”, then after applying the glue until the surfaces to be glued together, you need to wait 2-3 minutes. The seam is completely cured in 10 hours (with the exception of “ELASTOSIL-2” glue, which finally hardens after 3 days, and “DUBOK” glue - after 1 day).
When gluing with ELASTO-SIL-2 glue, it is absolutely necessary that the surfaces to be glued are absolutely dry and that no moisture gets on the seam during setting.
Fabrics are firmly glued to wood with “POLYVINYL ACETATE” glue, “BF-6”, “OAK” and “UNICUM”. However, “POLYVINYL ACETATE” and “BF-6” adhesives have disadvantages: the first is characterized by low water resistance, the second forms a seam colored yellow.
When gluing with polyvinyl acetate glue, the fabric and wood are coated with glue and a small weight is applied for 10 minutes. After 12 hours, the seam is completely cured.
BF-6 glue is also applied to both surfaces, but in two layers. The first layer is dried, and then the second is applied to it. After this (when the second layer has not yet completely dried), the fabric and wood are applied to each other and the glue seam is ironed through a wet rag with a hot iron until the rag is completely dry. When using UNICUM glue, instead of ironing, it is enough to simply press the seam for 2 hours with a weight.
Often in everyday life or when making furniture we have to glue various materials. IN carpentry and furniture In fact, the skills of the master in this type of work play a big role.
The quality of gluing depends, first of all, on the pre-treatment of the bonded surfaces. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, and remnants of old glue or paint; the surface must always be dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or a file.
When gluing metal, porcelain, glass, stone and some other parts, it is necessary to first degrease them by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in the solution. ammonia gasoline, acetone, baking soda solution.
When gluing different materials, you need to follow several rules: apply glue to the surface only thin layer, but in such a way that there are no missing places. The glue should be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, etc.) and of uniform consistency, that is, it should not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not in any way contribute to a stronger bond. According to the instructions, some types of adhesives should be heated before use. We would advise you not only to heat the glue itself, but also to heat the materials being glued. Then the bonding strength will increase.
As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in a warm place not lower than 18 ° C. The parts should be pressed tightly together using a press, pressure or vice.
When gluing wood, it is recommended to heat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the humidity of the parts being glued be the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. We would recommend that you glue dry wood with animal and synthetic glues. Animal glues include bone and casein glues. Let us immediately note that preparing bone glue for work requires quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than compensated by its advantages. It is advantageous to use it when a large volume of work is performed. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which distinguishes it from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand loads of up to 60 kg per 1 square meter. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, tiles of dry wood glue can be stored indefinitely; they practically do not deteriorate.
Wood glue should be prepared in a special glue cooker. The glue cooker consists of two tin vessels, one of which (the wider one) is filled with water, and the second (smaller in size) is filled with glue and placed in the first one. The glue gun can be successfully replaced with ordinary tin cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) prevents the glue from burning and can maintain heat for a long time. To make bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and add water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then let it cook. For cooking liquid glue For 4 parts by weight of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be heated, stirring, so that the entire mass is obtained without clots or grains. Do not bring the glue to a boil; this may reduce its adhesiveness and durability. Determine the readiness of the glue by dipping a stick into it.
The glue is ready if it flows slowly from the stick in a thick, even stream. If the glue turns out to be too thick during cooking, you can dilute it hot water. When working, use hot glue; if it has cooled down a little, it can be heated in a water bath. Don't brew it right away a large number of glue. Brew as much as you need to carry out the work; reheating already hardened glue worsens its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also give it fire-resistant properties. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and cook it in a glue cooker until you get a thick composition, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the adhesiveness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at a ratio of 25:2.
When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of water room temperature and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. The adhesive powder must be poured into the water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. Ready mix At first it will be thick, and it is set aside for a while to liquefy. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should flow from the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, since at temperatures above 40 °C casein coagulates and loses its adhesive properties. You can prepare adhesive powder at home, provided you have the necessary ingredients. The glue contains 7 parts by weight of dry casein powder and 1 part by weight of borax (sodium boric acid).
To prepare glue from such a powder you will need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour in casein cold water in a 1:1 ratio and leave for 3 hours. Dissolve borax in hot water and pour the resulting solution over the swollen casein. Stir continuously until you get a fairly thick, homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under pressure for 4 hours, but the glue finally dries only after 12 hours. Big advantage casein glue is that it can glue wood high humidity. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives, such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses; please read the instructions provided carefully.
Sometimes it is necessary to glue plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film onto a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood using casein or synthetic wood glue. You can also glue plywood with tile wood glue, but it creates a noticeable dark-colored seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then place a plywood sheet on it and press it tightly on top with pressure. The pressure should be approximately 8 kg and should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.
To glue plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. These can be adhesives such as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, "Elastosila-2". Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of the wood or plastic.
Clean the wood from dust, and sand the back side of the plastic until the plastic becomes slightly rough. Be especially careful around corners and edges. Then wipe the treated surface of the plastic with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces to be glued and connect them. Pressing the plastic firmly against the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze out all the air from under the plastic, and then place something heavy on the plastic so that the pressure is evenly distributed over the entire surface to be glued, at least 4-5 kg per 1 sq. . see. Leave the oppression for half an hour. These glues are completely cured within 24 hours.
For gluing to wooden base fabric, leather, leatherette, use adhesives: “Oak”, “Unicum”, BF-6, “Polyvinyl acetate”.
Also at home, if you have the necessary ingredients, you can prepare high-quality adhesive composition. For this you will need 400 g of wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix the dry ingredients, add water and place on low heat, or better yet, use a glue boiler. While preparing the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically to prevent lumps from forming. As soon as the glue begins to thicken it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive composition is uniform. This glue is used only when hot. Leathers and leather substitutes (without fabric base) degrease synthetic films with acetone and gasoline. Fabrics do not need pre-treatment before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until dry.
It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and “Polyvinyl acetate” adhesives, since BF-6 glue can show through the front surface and stain the fabrics yellowish. Polyvinyl acetate glue is destroyed by water.
It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Patex, Elastosila-2. If you need to stick to wooden surface small metal objects (hooks, shelves), we would not recommend using the first three of the named brands of adhesives. These adhesives form so-called “creeping seams”, that is, under the influence of loads metal object will slide off the wooden surface. Before gluing, file the surface of the metal to make it rough, and then degrease it with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces to be glued, clamp the parts in a vice and leave for a few minutes. The glue will finally dry in 10-12 hours.
For gluing smooth surfaces use the same adhesives, glue "Elastosila-2".
Apply a thin layer of glue to surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave for one hour. After this, wipe the surfaces with a swab soaked in acetone and connect them. Clamp the glued parts in a vice for 4-5 hours. The glue will finally harden in 10-12 hours.
Glass is most often glued with adhesives such as Polyvinyl Acetate, Mars, Super Cement, BF-2, Patex, Unicum. These adhesives form virtually colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry a little for 10 minutes. Apply a second layer and after 2-3 minutes connect the parts to be glued. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other for 20-30 minutes. The glue hardens completely only after a day.
To glue glass and metal together, take “Glue-sealant”, “Elastosila-2”, “Unicum”. Degrease both surfaces, lubricate with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become waterproof after three days.
You can glue glass to wood, as well as glue fabric or cardboard onto it using PVA, PVA-A, or Polyvinyl Acetate adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, lubricate the surfaces with glue and place the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.
At home, BF-2 or "Epoxy" glue is used for gluing metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust using sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of glue to the surface and leave it there for an hour. Then place the blanks coated with glue in the oven, heated to 50-60 oC, and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it begins to dry (no longer sticks to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vice and dry them in the oven at a temperature of 130-150 oC for 1-2 hours. Cold drying
It hardens completely only after 2-3 days.
Epoxy glue is indispensable in some cases. It consists of two components, resin and hardener.
When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; If you get hardener on your hands, remove it with a swab soaked in acetone, and then wash your hands with running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl with hot water, but not higher than 30 ° C. Mix warm resin with hardener in the ratio specified in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as you would others.
Also read in this section:
Useful tips about repairs
Tips from housewives on cleaning the apartment, cleaning carpets, caring for furniture. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly remove a blockage in the kitchen or restore chipped enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.
Insulation
Everything about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here's how to make an attic warm and what materials to use. Everything about methods and technologies for insulating houses, cottages, and basements. You can calculate the material consumption.
Insulation materials
How to choose the right materials for thermal insulation works in what proportions to prepare cement mortar for walls, how to insulate Vacation home. Recommendations will help you choose materials that have fire-resistant and low thermal conductivity properties.
Often we need to glue a broken or cracked plastic product - from the temple of glasses to the bumper of a car. It may also be necessary to glue a hook in the bathroom or a holder for a garden sprayer. The essence of the gluing process is to dissolve the surface layer of two workpieces and form from this solution a layer of plastic common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, “glue tightly together.”
Determining the type of plastic
In order to reliably glue plastic, you first need to find out what kind of plastic the object is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.
All manufacturers put recycling symbols on their plastic products - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing reuse materials.
The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often the numbers are supplemented by an abbreviation. These designations are used to determine the type of plastic.
What does the marking on plastic mean?
- PET low density polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packaging or packaging food products. Available in the form of film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
- HDPE compacted low pressure polyethylene. Used for the production of shrink film and packaging bags.
- V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride - non-food plastic, used for the manufacture of strong and durable items, such as household buckets, frames metal-plastic windows, linoleum.
- LDPE Low Density Polyethylene high pressure. Used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, cold water pipes.
- PP polypropylene. Plastic is not chemically active, heat-resistant (up to 150 ° C), most widely used in the production of medical goods, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
- PS polystyrene. Also food grade plastic, it is used to make disposable tableware, household utensils, and kitchen appliance housings. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - polystyrene foam, used in everyday life and in construction work.
- O Other (others) - materials that are not intended for recycling, for example, with inclusions of metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.
PS - polystyrene
To reliably glue plastic, you need to carefully examine the markings on the product and select an adhesive intended for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. To reliably use this method at home, you need to gain considerable experience.
Glue marking
Tubes with glue are also marked, it’s just a pity that the designation system does not always coincide with the designations in the triangle on the plastic product. Most often you can see the following symbols on the tube:
- PC-polycarbonate (used for covering greenhouses and canopies).
- ABS is an acrylonitrile copolymer.
- PP polypropylene.
- PPMA organic glass general purpose.
- PE is a well-known polyethylene.
- PVC is another familiar one - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
- PS – polystyrene.
- PA 66 - polyamide.
- PUR polyurethane.
If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must be included with the tube, which plastics can be glued with it.
Types of adhesives
The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their use.
How to glue plastic
To dissolve the surface layer of a material, it is necessary to destroy the chemical bonds between the molecules. For this purpose, special substances are used - strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and may not even leave a trace on a material from another group. The basis of each adhesive composition is such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:
- a hardener that promotes drying;
- filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the glue is intended.
One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to glue polystyrene and plexiglass.
Depending on the method of use, the products are divided into several groups:
- liquid;
- contact;
- reactionary;
- hot melt adhesives.
Liquid
Liquid ones are widely used in everyday life; they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic that has a porous structure. They are produced both on the basis organic solvent, and on water based. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient for the base to evaporate. After that adhesive layer hardens to form a joint. A typical example is PVA glue; it can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.
Contact
Bonding takes place in two stages:
- the surfaces to be glued are lubricated with a thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
- After a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.
This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can be used to glue polystyrene and other plastics together at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and prevent drops from coming into contact with the skin or mucous membranes.
Reactionary
One-component reactive agents dissolve the bonded material very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are like this famous brands, like Secunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and rigid.
Two-component ones consist, respectively, of two components stored separately from each other:
- hardener;
- fixative
The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to the surface, where the mixture hardens to form a compound. The basis is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home turns out to be very durable. Characteristic feature is that complete hardening takes quite a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and fragility.
Hot melt adhesives
This group includes substances that exhibit their properties when heated to 110-120 °C. To use you need a special glue gun With heating element. Differs in precision of application. In addition to plastic, it can be used to glue wood, fabric, and paper together at home.
How to glue plastic tightly at home
After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, you should:
- Thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be bonded. To do this, use alcohol, a degreaser or a soap solution (only laundry soap);
- To glue objects more reliably, you need to increase wettability. To do this, treat the surface with a velvet file or fine sandpaper;
- Mix two-component reactive substances only after completing the preparation of parts;
- do not use brushes with natural bristles;
- Apply enough adhesive so that when pressing the workpieces, the excess is not squeezed out beyond the gluing zone.
The parts should be pressed so as to prevent their displacement in the gluing plane relative to each other.
How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts
So that gluing plastic at home gives maximum effect, follows:
- accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
- carefully follow the instructions for use;
- wait for the required time for the seam to gain strength and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
- for outdoor use or for items used in high humidity conditions, you need to choose a waterproof brand;
- despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
- If there is no marking on the product, then you can try dropping a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.
Epoxy glue produces one of the strongest bonds and is compatible with many types of plastics.
What affects the reliability of gluing
The reliability of the seam is influenced by a number of conditions. All of them are important, and failure to comply with any one can lead to the fact that what is glued at home will fall off, despite compliance with all the others. So:
- Compliance of the product material and adhesive composition.
- Correspondence of the type of adhesive composition to the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. The direction of these efforts is equally important. Thus, compounds that produce rigid seams are not suitable for repairing, for example, shoes - after all, the sole will bend and twist during use, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, this composition can successfully glue, say, a hook to glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
- Compliance with application technology. Everything is important here - how many seconds or minutes the surfaces need to be compressed, and how to degrease them, and how long to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular “plastic-glue” pair, is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A deviation of one second in the exposure time or premature start of use of the product can lead to secondary failure.
- Mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly clean the surface from dust and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts against each other must be perpendicular to the surfaces being glued. You should not allow the parts to move mutually after pressing - this will also lead to failure.
Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Carefully following simple rules by the home craftsman will allow you to obtain strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale vapors of the adhesive and do not allow it to get into food, skin or mucous membranes. If accidentally swallowed, consult a doctor immediately, making sure to take the tube with you.
Plastic products are widely used in everyday life. If they break, you need to know what kind of plastic glue you will need for repairs. To ensure a strong and safe gluing result, we advise you to become more familiar with the types of plastic and the rules for selecting an adhesive composition.
What does the marking on plastic mean?
Since some adhesives may dissolve rather than bond plastic, it is recommended that you examine the markings on the broken product. The plastic type icon looks like a triangle formed from arrows (recycling symbol). Inside it there are numbers from 1 to 7, and below there is an inscription. These identification marks determine whether the material belongs to a particular type of plastic, which will allow you to select the correct adhesive.
What types of plastic exist:
- 1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. It is used to produce food packaging for liquid products.
- 2 (HDPE) - polyethylene high density, designed for the production of packaging and shrink film.
- 3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. It is made from plastic windows, linoleum, etc.
- 4 (LDPE) - low-density polyethylene, toys for children, pipes, bottles, and packaging containers are made from it.
- 5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. Used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
- 6 (PS) - polystyrene. Disposable tableware is made from it. Foamed polystyrene is widely used in construction.
- 7 (O) - this type of plastic cannot be recycled and consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, and foil.
Glue marking
The main difficulty is that the glue markings do not match the plastic recycling symbols.
How is glue for plastic marked?:
- PE - polyethylene;
- PC - polycarbonate;
- PP - polypropylene;
- PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
- PMMA - organic glass;
- PUR - polyurethane;
- PA 66 - polyamide.
Sometimes it's easier to find clear instructions in Russian than the marking icon. But if there are no recommendations on the packaging, then the symbols will help you make the right choice.
Types of glue
Plastic has low adhesion due to its smoothness, making it more difficult to glue than other materials. In industry, such products are fastened by welding. This method is not used at home, but you can choose good glue. The principle of operation of the composition is this: it dissolves the surface, and with strong squeezing the parts are connected. Therefore, the main component of plastic adhesive is a solvent of synthetic polymers. For viscosity, the composition contains liquid polystyrene.
Liquid glue for plastic and Moment plastic The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:
- Hot melt adhesive. Represents solid adhesive rods. They must be heated before use. There are special ones, and there are also types of glue for use without a gun. This composition is suitable for small jobs, as it does not have special bonding strength.
- Contact. It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can tightly glue plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. It is necessary to use personal protective equipment. For better fastening of the parts, after applying the glue, you need to wait 10 minutes, and only then squeeze them firmly.
- is made on a water basis and is considered the least effective way fastenings. It takes a long time to dry (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subject to increased loads. But liquid glue samples do not deform the plastic; this is very important for working with small parts.
- Reactionary- reliable and affordable option glue for plastic. There are several types of such compositions: some are designed to work under water, others harden under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and others work on outdoors. There are one-component and two-component ones.
Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive to glue children's toys.
Product examples
What can be found on the shelves of construction and hardware stores:
- « Moment plastic"- a type of glue that binds many types of plastics together. He has transparent base, sets quickly and forms a strong connection. This is a waterproof and heat-resistant composition. However, it contains toxic substances and is not used to repair products that come into contact with food or skin.
- "Super Moment"" - instant glue.
- - epoxy glue, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy to use composition.
- "" is a brand that offers several types of glue for plastic. Among them are adhesive-sealant for transparent plastic, compound Plus for PVC, PMMA- adhesive for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
- « Second» - superglue for hard plastics. One of the fastest acting compounds.
- For minor car repairs, special automotive plastic sealants are sold.
- Rexant - hot melt adhesive, available in the form of rods. It can be transparent or colored (to disguise joints if colored parts are connected).
- Akfix HT300 - thermo- and water-resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive sealant contains silicone. It reacts to humid air.
This is not the entire range that the adhesive industry offers. It cannot be said that any glue is better or worse. Each composition is designed for specific types of work. Read the instructions carefully and follow all recommendations.
How to glue plastic
The type of plastic is set, the right glue selected How to glue correctly plastic items:
- Parts should be cleaned. If necessary, degrease the item with a soap solution or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has greater adhesion and objects will be easier to stick to.
- It doesn't hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them up. This way the glue will stick better.
- Two-component compositions are mixed only after surface preparation.
- If parts are coated with glue using a brush, then use an object with artificial bristles.
- The glue is applied in such an amount that when compressed, its excess does not protrude to the surface.
- You need to squeeze objects together firmly, but carefully.
- The duration of adhesion of materials depends on the selected adhesive.
Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.
Sometimes you need to attach a variety of materials to plastic: wood, glass or metal. In this case, the glue must take into account the characteristics of the two surfaces being connected, and not just the plastic.
Glue Super moment Tips for work with plastic:
- For external work, waterproof glue is used.
- Despite high temperature which glue can withstand, plastic objects themselves should not be subjected to it.
- When working with contact adhesive, it is necessary to ventilate the room.
- The best adhesive for marking 7 (O) is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
- If there is no marking on the product, then build on this: for plastic toys and artificial glass, polystyrene is used mainly; For bottles, buckets and boxes, glue designed for polypropylene and polyethylene is suitable.
Take the time to study the labeling of plastic products and glue. If repairing small toys like Lego is a simple process, then for more serious work the familiar Secunda glue may not be suitable for everyone.
You will definitely use this trick if you didn’t know it before. We will talk about how to very reliably glue plastic or plastic parts using ordinary second glue, using one small secret, which increases the strength of the connection of two parts by more than 10 times.
What's the trick?
So, the secret is that around the seam of the parts to be glued we will apply ordinary soda with superglue. The result is a very strong thickening around the seam.The fact is that the cyanoacrylates that make up the glue interact with soda. They interact and are not just a filler. When these two components are mixed, an instant reaction occurs and the strongest composition is obtained, which can be used to glue not only plastics, but also metals. A peculiar resemblance cold welding. Second glue by itself is not half as strong when used alone. It is not surprising that everything they did did not hold up well and fell apart. But with the use of this technology, this will no longer happen.
Will need
- Any super or second glue.
- Baking soda.
Gluing plastic
Let's get started. The bushing into which the screw is screwed has broken off. And, accordingly, I will now restore all this.At the beginning everything is as usual. Lubricate the area with glue.
One and the other have details.
Let's connect them.
Now the soda comes into play. When the parts come into contact, excess glue is squeezed out; it needs to be sprinkled generously with soda.
After 5 seconds, the excess can be blown off.
Then pour superglue generously around the crack and immediately cover it with baking soda again.
We blow off the excess again.
We repeat the process again.
Sprinkle generously.
As a result, a strong bead has formed around the bushing, which will hold everything securely.
Although everything has hardened before your eyes, it is recommended to let it sit for about 24 hours before using the product.
Pros and cons of the method
Pros:- Instant hardening. Even large drops freeze immediately.
- The end result is a very durable monolith.
- Glues almost any plastic.
- You can even seal holes and holes.
- Instant hardening can act as a negative factor due to the fact that the composition cannot be poured into the center of the parts to be glued.
- The reaction occurs with the release of heat, which in some cases can be negative.
- Unfortunately, such a composition can only be applied to the surface, but there are times when it is not possible to reach it.