How to insulate roses for the winter and when. Preparing roses for winter in Siberia

A rose is truly a very beautiful flower. She is undoubtedly the queen of flowers and an indispensable decoration of the entire garden. And I really want to protect her from the cold winter and protect her from severe frosts. So that next year it will again delight its owners with its beauty, we will tell you how to cover roses for the winter.

Of course, it would be nice to start preparing roses for winter from the moment they are purchased. It is better to choose frost-resistant varieties of roses, strong and healthy bushes.

The fact in which place and how the roses are planted also plays an important role. They love light and warmth, so you should not plant roses in the shade. They don't survive the winter well there. If a piece of land is low and melt water collects there, you can raise its level by 30-40 centimeters. It is also very important to plant roses in such a way that they are easily accessible. Sufficient space between roses makes caring for them quite comfortable. It is necessary to regularly weed the bushes, water them abundantly, loosen the soil and wrap them up for the winter.

How to feed roses in the fall.

There are various autumn fertilizers for roses, we offer you 2 recipes that you can easily make yourself:

Recipe No. 1

potassium monophosphate - 16 g;
superphosphate - 15 g;
water - 10 liters.

Recipe No. 2
In a 10-liter bucket dilute:
potassium sulfate - 10 g;
superphosphate - 25 g;
boric acid - 2.5 g;
water - 10 liters.

One bucket of this fertilizer is enough for roses in a flower bed with an area of 4 square meters.

How to insulate roses for the winter and when

At the end of September and beginning of October, the roots of roses must be insulated by pouring a 30-centimeter layer of earth on them. The roots of the roses need to be covered on top:

Fallen leaves;

Fallen leaves will provide protection and additional nutrients. And snow retains heat very well. This will protect the plant's roots and stems from freezing.

If the frost is not severe, up to -5 degrees, there is no need to cover the roots of the roses. Such frost is not terrible, but even useful. It will serve as a kind of hardening for the plant. And it will be more resistant to frost.

5 simple steps on how to cover roses for the winter.

Step 1. Pruning roses for the winter.
Roses are pruned long before they need to be covered. The best time to prune roses for the winter is the end of September - October, when stable frosts occur.

Step 2. Hilling up and insulating the roots for the winter.
Cover the roots of roses covered with soil to a height of 10 cm with a layer of weathered peat, dry sand, shavings or sawdust.

Step 3. Making the frame.
We create a reliable, air-dry shelter in which roses will feel great in winter. To do this, you need to make a frame, low to 0.5 meters, from metal arcs, which are used for country greenhouses. Place the frame over the rose bushes. If any rose stems extend beyond the frame, they need to be trimmed.

Step 4. Insulation.
Stretch insulating material over the frame. There are several options for what material to cover roses for the winter:
- kraft paper and film on top of it;
- burlap;
- synthetic insulation - lutrasil, agrofibre, etc., which will serve you for several years.

Step 5.
Secure the edges of the covering material so that they are not ruffled by the wind, thrown back, or blown inside the rose cover.

Particular care should be taken when wintering young rose bushes. Those that grew for just one summer. The first winter is the most dangerous for them. It is during this period that many plants freeze. Don't skimp on materials. It is better to make a high-quality shelter for the rose bush. Then he will return the favor with his riotous flowers next year.

There is no need to warm roses too early. In a shelter, fresh buds may become moldy and not survive the winter. If the winter in your region is not too frosty, then roses can overwinter well under cover from:
- dry leaves;
- shavings;
- sawdust.

The method of covering roses for the winter depends on what type of plant you are growing. We will start the conversation with the most common type of rose among Russian summer residents - bush roses.

Before covering, you need to use pruning shears to remove all shoots whose tops have not ripened, and also rid the branches of the bush of leaves. This is necessary in order to protect the rose from attack by pests or diseases. After pruning, the maximum height of the shoots should be no more than 50 cm.

Another necessary procedure that precedes directly covering the rose is its hilling, which allows you to protect the basal branches of the bush from frost. After hilling, the roses are sprinkled with a too thick layer of a mixture of peat and sand.

There is no need to rush and cover the roses before the onset of persistent cold weather. But as soon as the temperature stabilizes within 5-7 degrees, the roses need to be insulated immediately.

Lately, the question of how to cover bush roses for the winter has been causing great controversy. Supporters of natural covering materials insist on spruce branches or fallen leaves.

In our opinion, this method has the advantage of good ventilation, allowing plants to breathe freely. However, there are serious drawbacks. The main one is that foliage and spruce branches are a very good refuge for all kinds of pests and diseases. Therefore, by using them to cover roses, we expose them to the risk of infection.

In this regard, gardeners have recently increasingly given preference to artificial insulation materials. On the one hand, they are safer, but at the same time, their use entails a lot of additional hassle. So, for example, it is imperative to build a strong frame on which the material will be laid.

But the main difficulties arise when sudden thaws occur. In this case, the temperature under the covering material rises significantly and the plant may deteriorate as a result of damping off. To prevent this from happening, you will have to constantly take measures to additionally ventilate the roses covered in this way.

In addition, when the snow melts during a thaw, the covering material may become wet, and then, with further cooling, the wet material will be frozen and covered with an ice crust, through which oxygen will not penetrate. To avoid such cases, the covering material is covered with cellophane on top.

They begin to remove cover from roses around mid-April. This is done gradually and the last layer is removed only after the first shoots appear on the bushes.

If you grow bush roses in containers, then covering them for the winter is carried out using the same technology, but before that the container must be buried in the ground. The most important thing is to prepare a hole, the depth and dimensions of which will exactly correspond to the dimensions of the container.

You can also use covering material when insulating climbing roses. This allows you to avoid unnecessary hassle when removing thorny branches from the supports. Most often, burlap is used for this; the use of denser materials causes difficulties.

Another way to insulate roses - more labor-intensive, but also more reliable - involves removing them from the supports and laying them on the ground, after which wooden supports are laid on the branches, on top of which spruce branches are laid.

The shoots of standard roses are tied with insulation, then a thick canvas bag is put on top, which is wrapped with rope. It is especially important to securely secure the neck of the bag, which will be close to the ground. After this, the trunk is hilled up as high as possible. The final event is laying the spruce branches.

Often, fans of growing roses have little idea how to care for these flowers in winter. How to cover roses for the winter is an easy answer, but in fact there are quite a few subtleties in this process. Simply wrapping every bush is not an option, as this will lead to the death of the plants, and if not all, then many. It's time to familiarize yourself with the recommendations for insulation and selection of materials for your rose garden.

Winter hardiness of flowers

What do people face in the spring? Their roses are either frozen or withered . Experts attribute these oversights to several factors:

incorrectly selected material for insulation;
careless or too diligent hilling of already hardy flowers;
attempts to insulate absolutely all types of plants, including frost-resistant ones.

There is an interesting story about the most ancient and frost-resistant rose bush. It is located in the city of Hildesheim. Legends say that it appeared during the reign of Charlemagne. One day, sacred relics were hung on this bush, but people who tried to remove them failed. And then it was decided to leave the roses alone and build a temple next to them. Now the climbing bush is equal in height to the temple, and it is one of the main historical values of its city.

But it's time to return to pressing problems. It is necessary to prepare the conditions for flowers at the end of summer, but before that it is important to find out all the individual characteristics of the plants located in your rose garden.

For example, seedlings that have not yet survived a single winter require additional help, despite all their frost-resistant characteristics. This help consists of pruning, insulating the tree trunk area and branches.

But mature plants that are resistant to cold do not expect anything like this. You need to cover roses for the winter only when they really need it.

The most durable type of roses is called park roses. There is also a product of the efforts of English breeders, colloquially called “ostinki”. Both of these types are so harsh that they don’t even need to be covered with insulation material. They will spend the winter calmly anyway.

But hybrid tea and climbing varieties of roses are extremely sensitive to temperature changes.

Material selection

The most common mistake made by novice gardeners is that they try to tightly wrap flower stems in covering materials. You can constantly see how yet another newbie after wintering complains about the poor quality of the insulation, unaware of his own fault. And some of them don’t even know at what temperature to cover roses for the winter.

And again, experts help us out, explaining that roses can make do with covering materials that are widely used in everyday life.

How to cover roses for the winter, except spruce branches:

One of the most important conditions when insulating any plants is to always leave an oxygen cushion between the material and the flower. Otherwise, the plant will simply die, despite the outstretched helping hand.

Types of shelter

Each type of shelter has its own purpose. Each of them is used for a specific purpose. There are several types:

The air-dry type is most suitable for hybrid flowers. Its main advantages are temperature stability and excellent ventilation. In this case, the thermometer never drops below 4 degrees below zero. The likelihood of damping off of roots is noticeably reduced. All you need is a strong frame and polyethylene. The lower edges of the greenhouse should be covered with earth.
You can’t think of a better shield method for climbing roses. The peculiarity of these flowers is that they shed their leaves late, which is why they require the closest attention from the gardener. The essence of the preparation is to cut off the remnants of the leaf blades, fix the lashes near the ground, on a thick layer of spruce branches. After this, the bush must be covered on both sides with shields. The structure looks like a tent or the roof of a house.
Jute bags are suitable for standard plants. You need to put a canvas without a bottom on the crown. Tie it at the base of the growing branches. Then the top of the bag is tightly stuffed with insulation. It should be closed. If we are talking about roses growing in tubs, then before the onset of cold weather they should be sent to the basement, and not covered with something, leaving them outside.

Basic Rules

It’s already clear how to insulate roses for the winter, but we can’t help but mention a few general rules. The very first of them is the strict implementation of preparatory work at the moment when the leaves begin to fall.

First of all, dry and damaged branches are pruned.. Be sure to get rid of any remaining foliage, since pathogenic bacteria multiply in unrotted cuttings. It makes sense to spray the bush with Fundazol.

It is important to pay attention to the hygiene of the tree trunk holes. It is necessary to remove all weeds, mulch residues and leaves from them. Only when this is done can you begin the process of insulating the root system.

By correctly distributing your care and attention between different varieties of queen flowers, it is easy to achieve excellent results in insulating roses for the winter.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: Even before planting the bushes, you need to think about how to place the roses on the site so that it is convenient to cover them in the fall...

Often, after removing the cover from roses in the spring, amateur flower growers experience a feeling of bitterness - their pets have turned black and become moldy. But so much effort was spent, the bushes were so carefully insulated for the winter, but all the efforts were in vain. Owners often attribute such failure only to the weak viability of roses in central Russia and are convinced that their favorites are freezing to death.

In fact, the reasons for failure lie elsewhere. Successful overwintering of roses is determined by the mandatory implementation of a number of agrotechnical measures throughout the summer, since preparation for winter begins long before the onset of cold weather.

Even before planting the bushes, you need to think about how to place the roses on the site so that it is convenient to cover them in the fall. In particular, it is necessary to leave a free approach to planting, to provide a place where the shoots of climbing roses will be laid and where the shelter will be placed.

It is not advisable to plant other crops nearby that can be damaged when working with roses. It is especially important to take this into account for standard and climbing roses. Their shoots must be preserved, as they will bloom next year. The place chosen for laying the shoots should not be below the level of the plantings themselves; roadside ditches are also not suitable - after all, water will accumulate there in the spring, which is detrimental to roses. As a last resort, low spots can be raised by adding sand.

Roses are light-loving and we must remember that bushes grown in the shade winter worse, since during the summer they do not have enough light for normal photosynthesis. As a result, the processes of accumulation of nutrients in the plant slow down.

Based on the principle of convenience, it is better to place roses (Hybrid Tea, Polyanthus and Floribunda) in rows 30-40 cm apart, taking into account the age of the plant and the growth rate of the selected variety.

It is better to plant small-flowered Polyantha, Miniature or Groundcover roses in a continuous border with a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes, if the area is damp - more densely. Then, during autumn waterlogging, moisture is absorbed faster.

Weak plants do not winter well. This means that you should carefully ensure that the roses are well formed and grow a healthy leaf mass during the summer. This can be achieved subject to timely control of pests and diseases, and roses have a lot of them.

You often hear from hobbyists that they begin to take action when signs of disease appear on the bushes. If this happens in the second half of summer, then the plant often dies during the winter. Sick roses shed their leaves, which stimulates the awakening of new buds. This phenomenon is extremely undesirable in the second half of summer, since at the end of August - beginning of September measures should already be taken to slow down and stop the growth of shoots, otherwise they do not have time to ripen, and as a result the bushes do not overwinter well.

Disease control must be preventive. In the spring, after removing the cover and throughout the entire growing season, it is necessary to regularly (once every 10 days) spray the roses with Bordeaux mixture against various fungal diseases.

You can use more effective modern fungicides; their use will significantly reduce the number of treatments. They are sprayed on the bushes when the bulk of the shoots and leaves have grown. The treatment must be repeated every 10 days.

Good results for the prevention of powdery mildew are obtained by treating two or three times a season during the hottest part of the day with a 0.3% solution of soda ash.

Pest control should also be regular. During the summer, fallen leaves and pruned shoots should be carefully collected and burned, and weeds should be regularly destroyed. You should not be lazy, cover all the cuts on the branches with garden varnish, and disinfect the cutting tool in a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

Only with proper and regular nutrition of roses throughout the growing season can their resistance to diseases and pests be achieved.That’s why it’s so important to pay attention to feeding. They are carried out approximately once every 2 weeks.

In the spring, when active growth of shoots begins, fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen is applied. At this time, ammonium nitrate is used in solution (20 g per 10 liters of water) or embedded in the soil in dry form (40 g per 1 m2).

For summer feeding, it is better to use fermented manure (1:10) - one bucket of infusion for 4 plants. Foliar feeding with microelements is useful. In August, they begin to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (30 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water). They contribute to the timely ripening of shoots. Physiologically active substances (sodium humate, albumin, epin) that stimulate growth can only be used in the first half of summer.

From mid-August, all agrotechnical measures should be aimed at slowing down and stopping the growing season. To do this, reduce or completely stop watering, depending on the weather.

Sometimes, in too rainy autumns, plastic film is stretched over the bushes in order to somehow reduce the flow of moisture.

You can make furrows to drain water from the rose garden. If individual shoots continue to develop intensively, their ends need to be pinched, which will inhibit growth and accelerate ripening. Otherwise, such shoots die over the winter.

Too much flowering in late fall can also weaken the plants by wasting too much nutrients. To stop this process, the shoot at the base of the bud is bent. As a result, apical growth is inhibited, and the lateral buds do not wake up.

Roses do not have a pronounced dormant period, so even a temporary increase in temperature to 0 ° C in winter stimulates growth. That is why it is very important to choose the optimal timing for covering the bushes.

If you start too early, you will have to remove the leaves, which will stop photosynthesis. Delay may cause damage to shoots from early frosts.

When the temperature drops to minus 3°, the water in the stems freezes and ruptures the conducting vessels. Frost pockets form into which pathogens, such as fungal spores, enter. Subsequently, such shoots have to be cut into a ring.

It is very difficult to treat frost shoots, and the loss of a shoot weakens the bush.

Sometimes the first frosts occur early, in September, and then the weather remains warm for a long time. If after such frosts the roses thaw slowly, then the cells of the conducting vessels return to their normal state.

To slow down thawing, the bushes can be covered with paper, cloth, and sprinkled with water.

It is impossible to determine in advance when and how strong the early cold snap will be. To protect yourself from the first frosts in the autumn, I recommend using gradual covering of roses.

To do this, you first need to prepare them: carefully remove the leaves from the bottom of the bush, very carefully moisten it and the ground around it with a 3% solution of iron sulfate from a watering can (the drug burns the leaves, so they are removed). Then the bases of the shoots are sprinkled with sand (2 shovels per bush).

At temperatures just above 0°, roses stop growing, nutrients are no longer consumed, but begin to be deposited in the bark, pith, buds and roots. As a result, natural hardening occurs, which allows the roses to survive in the winter. The accumulated nutrients will be of great importance during the spring awakening of plants. These processes take place only in the light, which is why covering too early is not advisable.

Further hardening of roses occurs in late autumn, when the temperature is set at minus 2-8°. At this time, the shoots lose a significant amount of water. Starch begins to turn into sugars, which prevents the rose cells from freezing. The second phase does not require light and the absence of leaves does not affect the process.

It is at this moment that the final stage of sheltering needs to be carried out. It usually falls in the first ten days of November. All remaining leaves are removed, the roses are cut to a height of 40-45 cm, the upper part of the shoots is sprayed with a 2% nitrophen solution and the bushes are covered with insulating material: sawdust (3 buckets per bush), earth, dry leaf or peat.

When using earth as a shelter, it is prepared and dried in advance.

Softwood sawdust is preferred.

Peat is mixed with a small amount of sand so that it does not cake and allows air to pass through.

Sawdust and peat are very moisture-intensive materials; they have the ability to freeze quickly and thaw slowly. Considering that in central Russia winters are unstable and often alternate with thaws, this property of peat and sawdust makes it possible to maintain a constant temperature under the shelter.

To repel mice, you can put spruce branches on the insulating material or use naphthalene tablets, lumps of sawdust soaked in strong-smelling substances (kerosene, creolin).

In winter, you need to make sure that the wind does not blow away the snow. To detain it, you can install shields and put branches on top.

In the conditions of central Russia, such a phased covering of roses can be considered the best option.

This method has one drawback - the bushes must be trimmed, since it is impossible to completely cover them. Of course, we must strive to preserve the shoots as much as possible, then the roses will bloom well in the new season. To do this, if possible, they are bent down.

There are other shelters. Air-dry is considered reliable protection. It is a frame 50-60 cm high, which is made in the form of a low greenhouse from a metal rod, bent pipes, etc., connected to each other with wire.

The frame is installed over the roses in early October, before the ground freezes. The bushes are freed from the lower leaves, treated with a 3% solution of iron sulfate and covered with sand. Before frost sets in, they are tied together. In this case, they use only synthetic twine, which does not absorb moisture and does not grow moldy. The connected shoots begin to gradually bend to the ground.

This work is carried out before frost, until the branches have lost their flexibility, otherwise they can be broken or the bark on them will crack. Too thick, rigid shoots are cut to such a height that there is a space of 10-25 cm between them and the roof of the shelter.

With the onset of the first frost, the remaining leaves are torn off. This operation must be performed necessarily, otherwise the roses with leaves in the shelter will continue to “breathe,” creating increased humidity and provoking the formation of mold. Roofing felt is laid on the frame, leaving the ends open until constant frost sets in (minus 8°). Then they are closed. A film is stretched over the roofing material to completely prevent moisture from getting inside; its edges are well strengthened. The entire structure must be reliable so that it can withstand thick snow cover.

In a damp area where groundwater is close, an air-dry shelter cannot be used. Condensation will accumulate under it and roses in a humid environment will begin to rot.

Climbing roses, before the onset of the first frost, are removed from their supports, the leaves are removed, treated with iron sulfate, tied and laid on a piece of roofing material. Then the shoots are covered with sand, and when persistent frost sets in, they are covered with another piece of roofing material, which is secured using improvised means.

You should not use materials for covering that quickly rot and absorb moisture, for example, hay, straw, moss.

Of the other groups, Climbing and Polyantha are more winter-hardy.

Grafted roses withstand winter better than self-rooted ones. published

How to prepare roses for winter

It would be a good idea to start preparing roses for winter from the moment you purchase them. It is better to choose strong and healthy bushes.

Preparing roses for a good winter begins long before the onset of winter. Already in August they stop watering them. Then the plants are fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers so that the branches become woody before the cold weather.

How to feed roses in the fall.

There are various autumn fertilizers for roses; we offer you 2 recipes that you can easily make yourself.

Recipe 1

In a 10-liter bucket dilute:

potassium monophosphate – 16 g;
superphosphate – 15 g;
water – 10 liters.

Recipe 2

potassium sulfate – 10 g;
superphosphate - 25 g;
boric acid – 2.5 g;
water – 10 liters.

One bucket of this fertilizer is enough to fertilize roses in a flowerbed with an area of 4 square meters.

At the beginning of September, you need to inspect all the bushes and determine their condition. If the leaves are red, it means the bush is in a state of growth and is not ready for winter. There is no need to pick faded rose buds. The seeds will begin to ripen, and the bush will understand that the flowering period is over and it is necessary to prepare for winter. Next comes the stage of pruning the bush.

How to insulate roses for the winter and when

Rose roots, at the end of September, it is necessary to insulate them by pouring a layer of earth of 30 centimeters on them. The roots of the roses need to be covered on top:

fallen leaves;
snow.

Fallen leaves will provide protection and additional nutrients. And snow preserves the body very well. This will protect the plant's roots and stems from freezing.

If the frost is not severe, up to -5°C, there is no need to cover the roots of the roses. Such frost is not terrible, but even useful. It will serve as a kind of hardening for the plant. And it will be more resistant to frost.

When to insulate a rose bush for the winter. In a few weeks, towards the end of October, you need to clear the bush of all young shoots, leaves, and buds. Autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter are necessary procedures when growing roses in the Russian climate.

Young shoots of roses must be pruned. Otherwise, in the spring they may begin to rot and ruin the entire plant. When the bush is cleared of all unnecessary things, it would be a good idea to treat it with special products against pests and fungus.

5 simple steps on how to cover roses for the winter.

Step 1. Pruning roses for the winter. Roses are pruned long before they need to be covered. The best time to prune roses for the winter is the end of September - October, when stable frosts occur.

Step 2. Hilling up and insulating the roots for the winter. Cover the roots of roses covered with soil to a height of 10 cm with a layer of weathered peat, dry sand, shavings or sawdust.

Step 3. Making the frame. We create a reliable, air-dry shelter in which roses will feel great in winter. To do this, you need to make a low frame, up to 0.5 meters, from metal arches that are used for. Place the frame over the rose bushes. If any rose stems extend beyond the frame, they need to be trimmed.

Step 4. Insulation. Stretch insulating material over the frame. There are several options for what material to cover roses for the winter:

kraft - paper and film on top of it;
sackcloth;
synthetic insulation - lutrasil, agrofibre, etc., which will serve you for several years.

Step 5. Secure the edges of the covering material so that they are not ruffled by the wind, thrown back, or blown inside the rose cover.

Also, alternating severe frost with warming is dangerous for roses. This is much worse than severe frost all winter. During a thaw, the snow begins to melt, water gets into the insulation, and with subsequent frosts it freezes inside. With the next warming, the inside melts and the bush itself begins to rot and deteriorate. And high humidity is the cause of many diseases.

When to insulate roses - do not insulate roses too early. In a shelter, fresh buds may become moldy and not survive the winter.

If the winter in your region is not too frosty, then roses can overwinter well under cover from:

dry leaves,
shavings,
sawdust.

They are poured onto a rose bush pruned in the fall, at least 20 cm high, and pressed on top with spruce branches. Spruce branches will hold back the snow, and it will not settle too tightly on the rose bushes over the winter, so you will get an airy, dry shelter for roses for the winter.

Under no circumstances should roses be covered with polyethylene for the winter. When sunny, warm days arrive, the air under the film will heat up, creating a greenhouse effect. The buds will begin to bloom during the day and freeze on cold nights. This way you may lose your roses.

How to cover roses for the winter in Siberia

Growing roses in the harsh Siberian climate is extremely difficult; sometimes even covering roses for the winter in Siberia does not help, and flower growers dig up rose bushes, replant them in containers and move them to the basement for wintering. But we hope that your climate is not so harsh and we offer you the following method of covering roses in Siberia, which can also be used in the Urals.

For this you will need:

large boxes;
a lot of dry covering material for the roots - this can be fallen leaves, hay, straw, sawdust or shavings;
spruce branches;
thick covering material - lutrasil with a frame or a pyramid for covering roses for the winter.

Sheltering roses for the winter in the Urals or Siberia is done like this:

we dig in the roses with half a shovel, preserving the roots, and hill them up;
We install a large box 50 cm high around it, it is advisable that the cut branches of the rose do not peek out of them;
fill the box with completely dry natural material;
cover everything with spruce branches;
We install the frame with covering material on top.