Drawings of hip roofs. Construction of a hip roof: from frame to roofing How to build a hip roof

A hip roof is a structure consisting of four roof slopes: two trapezoidal slopes on the sides and two triangular slopes on the ends of the roof. These slopes are called hips, hence the name of the entire roof. This decision is driven more by design and architectural taste than by construction necessity. Hip roofs have long gained popularity in Europe, and over time migrated to us. Any do-it-yourself hip roof, drawings of which you will find here or in other sources, looks very aesthetically pleasing due to the slopes of all the slopes. This same feature helps reduce wind resistance from all directions, which means... A roof with hips will become more reliable and will last longer without repair.

A hip roof can be built without the help of professionals, even with the most primitive builder skills. The only difficulty is that you can’t do it alone, you will need 2-3 assistants.

Roof structure with hips

Hip roof diagram. Which is the leader among developers, has four slopes, two of them triangular. These hips are attached to the ends of the roof of the house to connect the cornice and ridge beam. The front and rear hips are built in the form of a trapezoid (truncated triangle), they have a larger area and an increased slope. Trapezoidal hips secure the ridge and cornice on the remaining sides.

There are also half-hip roof designs, and they are called Dutch. Half-hips are when the cornices of the side slopes are higher than the front and rear slopes. A Dutch roof is most often erected when installed in the attic of a living room.

The usual hip roof consists of components and elements that are assembled into a single structure in one way, and serve as a frame for more complex structures. In the diagram below, the hip structure consists of the following elements:

The corner rafter (position No. 1) is always installed at a smaller angle than the intermediate rafters. For intermediate and corner rafters on the sides of the roof, use a board measuring 50x15 cm;
Short rafter beams (position No. 2) are installed on the corner rafters. The angle of inclination should be the same as the inclination of the intermediate rafters;
The cross-section of the ridge (position No. 3) should be the same as that of the rafters themselves;
The central intermediate rafters (position No. 4) are attached to the corners of the ridge beam on three sides;
Intermediate rafters (position No. 5) are beams that connect the ridge beam and the trim boards laid along the top of the roof. The trim boards form a cornice.

A more detailed diagram of the roof structure with hip elements is in the figure below:

The ridge is supported by a stand (position No. 1), which is attached at the junction of the opposing pair of rafters and the ridge beam. Posts are not always present in the roof design, but their counterparts must be present in the design;
Tightening (ceiling beam, position No. 2) – a beam for fastening the rafters together;
The filly (position No. 3) serves to continue the overhang; the filly beam is attached to the rafters. An overhang is needed to protect the walls of the house from rain and snow;
The wind beam (position No. 4) strengthens the rafters on the windward side of the house. This beam can be installed on several sides;
The frame (short rafter, position No. 5) attach the frame to the corner rafter beam;
Mauerlat (position No. 6) is a powerful wooden beam that serves as the basis of any roof;
Sprengel (position No. 7) strengthens the roof structure and reduces the load on the walls. Mounted diagonally between the corners of the house on the mauerlat;
The struts (position No. 8) can be attached to the rafters at different angles. Their number and angle of attachment depend on the presence or absence of an attic;
Diagonal (side rafters, position No. 9) are installed from one or both ends of the roof;
The purlin (position No. 10) is the step of fastening the rafters.

How to install a hip structure

The roof with hips must be assembled in a certain sequence:

The first stage is the development of a scheme;
According to the diagram, the parameters of the roof are calculated - all its dimensions will depend on the width of the dimensions of the external and internal load-bearing walls of the house;
Tools and materials are prepared;
Laying a layer of waterproofing on the walls for installation of rafters;
The attachment points of the rafters on the Mauerlat are marked;
Installation of rafters and other roof elements according to the diagram;
Roof decking.

After processing the lumber and drying it, you can begin to install the roof - attach the Mauerlat beams to the load-bearing walls of the house. The Mauerlat is laid on the waterproofing, then the installation and fastening points of the rafter beams are marked on it. The Mauerlat beams are laid on the upper surface of the walls or on a beam that is pre-attached slightly below the walls.

The racks are attached to the floor beam, in the upper part - to the ridge. Also, the central rafters at the ends of the roof are attached to the ridge beam. Markings are made for the installation of intermediate beams along the front and rear slopes of the roof, after which the rafters are attached, connecting the corners of the house and the ridge diagonally. It may be necessary to install reinforcing posts in this place.

Short rafter beams or frames are attached to these rafters with the same spacing as the intermediate beams. In this fragment of the roof, trusses, wind beams, fillets and struts can be used for reinforcement (depending on the roof layout).

The roof is laid in the following sequence:

A vapor barrier is attached to the rafters;
The sheathing is attached to the vapor barrier;
Insulation is placed in the space between the slats and covered with a windproof film;
The counter-lattice is attached.

The desire to make a roof with your own hands can only be welcomed, but even a simple gable roof requires serious skills in working with wooden frame elements. Building a hip roof with your own hands on the first try, without any practical experience, is no less difficult than making the foundation of a two-story house or laying the box of a building made of sand-lime brick.

But, unfortunately, there is no other way to acquire valuable skills other than to participate in the practical construction of a hip roof with your own hands. Most knowledge has to be gained through practice, so the information below will help you avoid making serious mistakes in the first place. An ordinary garden gazebo or a small shed is suitable for this, but it is still better to learn from real masters on the hip roof of real objects.

Preparing to install a hip roof

For normal work on installing a hip roof, you need to establish good personal contact with the nearest decent construction company that has its own carpentry shop. Be prepared for additional orders for pine beams and 50 mm boards, since, most likely, there will be enough defects in cutting beams and rafters when working with your own hands. The overconsumption of construction wood on a hip roof due to the lack of experience in doing it yourself will be at least 5-7% of the amount of material included in the estimate.

We will make the hip roof step by step in approximately the following order:

We will install the Mauerlat on the walls with our own hands;
We will lay the floor beams;
We will install the ridge beam of the hip roof on vertical supports;
Let's assemble pairs of diagonal rafters into a hip triangle with our own hands and secure it to the ridge beam;
We sequentially install the flanges on each of the hip roof planes;
We will install ordinary rafters and struts;
Let's do the sheathing of the hip roof decks with our own hands.

Why you should do the work yourself on a hip roof in this sequence can be found out in more detail in the video

Important! It is better to carry out most of the operations of measuring, cutting and installing each element from start to finish with your own hands, without breaking it down into operations, for example, one measures, and the other cuts and installs a beam on a hip roof. This is the only way to ensure the proper level of quality of work.

Installing a hip roof

The most common way to build a hip roof is to install its rafter system and frame on a prepared floor made of rectangular timber. A set of beams is laid directly on the Mauerlat. It is better to secure the Mauerlat boards themselves with your own hands using anchor bolts on waterproofing mastic.

We lay the beams with our own hands in increments of 60-65 cm. The outer beams do not reach the walls by about half a meter, so additional short beams 110 cm long have to be laid on the wall.

To securely fix the floor beams from a short beam, we will make a small device from a corner with our own hands. To do this, we hammer short pieces of reinforcement into the wall, with which we will attach the Mauerlat under the hip roof. We weld pieces of steel angle bent into the letter G with our own hands to the extended and bent sections of metal. A shelf width of 4 cm is quite enough to securely fix the entire set of floor beams under a hip roof using self-tapping screws and nails. In the video, individual elements of the hip roof can be viewed in more detail.

To increase the transverse rigidity of the floor, we will cut out with our own hands and insert short jumpers between the beams in a checkerboard pattern. It is better to fasten the jumpers using corners and self-tapping screws. We cover the ends of the beams along the perimeter of the roof with magpie boards. We pay special attention to ensuring that all four corners of the overlap are in the same plane, and that there is no raising or lowering of the corner points of the connections.

Attention! In each of the corners, we cut it out of timber to size with our own hands and install an additional diagonal strength element. In the future, the heel of the diagonal rafter of the hip roof will be installed on it, so we align its position and fasten it with the utmost care.

Installing ridge beams and diagonal rafters

The next step is to build a so-called hip roof bench, consisting of a three-meter ridge beam supported by three vertical posts. To do this, mark the midlines and find the center of the foot of the building. The middle beam will be located exactly in the middle, the other two posts will be a little more than a meter away from the center.

We cut out and lay the ridge beam of the hip roof onto the posts. We choose the cross-section of the beam the same as that of the vertical posts. This design is quite unstable, so we nail two boards to each rack, working like struts.

Before we begin installing corner or diagonal rafters, let’s do a small calculation of the length of the slanted rafter leg of the hip structure. To do this, we measure with our own hands the length from the middle of the support in the corner sector of the floor to the nearest vertical “bench” beam and the height of the support itself. Using the geometry formula, we obtain the “rough” length of the diagonal roof beam. The calculation process is complex, so you can first try your hand at the frame of a hip roof for a gazebo or similar structure.

There is one reliable way to accurately determine the length of the hip rafter leg with your own hands. For this, a six-meter construction tape is used, with which the distance is measured from the top point of the end of the ridge girder to the middle point of support in the corner of the floor. What follows is exactly how, in the video, you can cut the corner on the top of the hip rafter with your own hands so that it fits as tightly as possible to the ridge without gaps.

In this case, the accuracy and quality are much higher than when using a template for a hip rafter.

Without fail, we cut out and install two additional elements: supports on the diagonal beams and struts holding a pair of corner rafters and a ridge girder, until the second pair of corner rafters of the hip roof is assembled and installed on the opposite side.

Important! Before fastening the diagonal beams, you should accurately align the angles between them and the correspondence of the inclination of the left and right hips.

If this is not done, the roof will have slightly different angles of inclination of the slopes, thus, with our own hands, we will ruin the appearance of the hip structure completely and irrevocably. We fasten two diagonal beams to the ridge using self-tapping screws, nails and metal plates. We transfer the previously installed supports under the corner rafters to a point located at a distance of a quarter of the length from the corner to the vertical post.

Installation of external and ordinary rafters

The extensions are installed in the same way as diagonal beams, alternating the supports in a checkerboard pattern. You can see the installation process in more detail in the video:

Despite the information about the length of each cutout, gleaned from the drawing, the workpiece has to be tried on and cut many times until we get to the desired size and angle of the cut.

When installing external rafters, we control the level of deflection of the diagonal beam, and if the selected cross-sectional size of the beam for the slanted rafters turns out to be small, we be sure to strengthen it by stuffing an additional board on top - forty. Often, diagonal beams, due to their considerable length and heavy load, are immediately made from two 50 mm boards.

Next, we install ordinary rafters. In the upper part, we cut out a support groove on each of the two paired row rafters and rest them on the ridge beam. From the bottom side, using a square and a pencil, we mark the cutting angle and trim the edge of the beam so that it fits smoothly onto the floor beam. We align the marked and cut ordinary rafters in pairs and align them so that each of the slopes forms an almost flat plane. When finished, we secure the exposed beams with self-tapping screws and begin sewing together the frame of the hip roof with nails and metal plates.

Final work

After installing the ordinary rafters, we check and make sure that the geometry of the diagonal beams, their relative position and angles of inclination have not changed. After this, we go through all the fastening points, both on the diagonal and on the row beams of the hip roof, once again and reinforce them with screws, nails and wood overlays and treat them with anticorrosive.

Conclusion

Assembling a hip roof, even if it is a gazebo in a garden or park, requires scrupulous alignment of the geometry of all elements. Without the skill to correctly cut and position each element of the frame, taking on such work only with your own hands, without the help and advice of a specialist, is a futile task. All the same, this will lead to errors that will certainly appear in the design of the hip roof over time.

Having your own roof over your head is a vital necessity for every person, regardless of age, gender and occupation. It is equally important that the roof is strong and reliable, for which it is recommended to turn to highly specialized professionals, or at least draw up a clear step-by-step construction plan and thoughtfully make the necessary calculations. The hip type of roofing systems, beloved by European developers, can be a reliable and aesthetic option.

Hip roof: device, configuration, features

The hip roof consists of four slopes; its top view resembles a sealed envelope.

Hip roof installation. View from above

The side slopes have the shape of a trapezoid, the slopes at the ends of the building are smaller in size, have a triangular shape and are called hips. The apex line formed where the rafters join forms the ridge. Its length is less than the length of the building being covered. The junctions of the side slopes and hips form ribs, the number of which is equal to the number of diagonal rafters. To drain liquid into storm drains, a drain is formed in the roof structure.

Note: additional slopes significantly reduce the height of the ceiling in the room under the roof, which is why this type of roof does not allow the presence of a residential attic in it.

Architectural diversity

Depending on which geometric figure is taken as the basis of the design, the following options for creating a hip roof are distinguished:

Half-hip. In this case, the hips are added only in the upper part of the slope.
Half hip roof type
Classic. The standard design of such a roof includes four slopes: two lateral trapezoidal and two triangular, located at the ends of the building.
Hip sloping standard roof
Tent. The slopes of such a roof are all triangle-shaped and the same size, so this option is only acceptable for square-shaped structures.
Hip hip roof with equal slopes
Broken. This is the most labor-intensive construction option, since all components are connected at different angles and have different shapes and sizes. Unexpected and stylish combinations of geometric shapes allow you to create a truly exclusive roof shape, making the costs justifiable.
A type of hip roof with several gables

Advantages and disadvantages of the design

The advantages of this type of roofing systems include:

Resistance to strong gusts of wind. A competent approach to roof construction allows you to minimize the likelihood of structural failure on overhangs.
Protection of building facades from precipitation due to the presence of overhangs on all sides of the building.
Visual reduction in the height of the building. This effect is valuable when it is necessary to integrate a house into an existing building without disturbing its balance.
Originality and high aesthetic qualities.
The rigid roof structure, obtained thanks to the corner ribs, eliminates the possibility of deformation of the roof surface.

However, along with the advantages, the hip design also has its disadvantages, the list of which includes the following:

Higher cost of time and money compared to a standard gable roof.
If sloping skylights are built into the roof, there is a possibility of excess moisture entering the house. To avoid this, you have to constantly cover the windows before it rains, which is not always convenient.
It is impossible to arrange an attic - the end slopes significantly reduce the area of the room under the roof.

Thorough preparation is the key to effective work

At the preparatory stage of erecting a hip roof, it is worth taking into account the type of material, wind strength and level of precipitation in the area.

Note: hipped hip roofs are especially popular in areas where protection from strong gusts of wind is needed.

When choosing the angle of roof inclination, it is worth considering that in areas with a dry and hot climate or strong winds, the angle should be minimal (2–5°); in climatic areas with heavy rainfall, the inclination must be greater.

Before making all the necessary measurements, you can make your own measuring rod from plywood, which will reduce the likelihood of errors in measurements. It is recommended to immediately apply all the dimensions necessary for work to the rail. This will allow you to avoid numerous measurements, thereby saving time, and avoid mistakes that are often made during repeated numerous measurements using a tape measure.

It is recommended to start marking the roof from the center line. It is located at the upper level of the end wall trim. Then it is necessary to measure the thickness of the ridge board (the value of this indicator is divided in half) and outline where the first element of the rafter system will be located. One end of the marking strip is applied to the line marked for the location of the first part of the rafter system; at its other end, the line of the internal side wall is marked, where the intermediate component of the rafter system will be located. By moving the batten to the line of the outer contour of the same wall and placing its opposite end on the resulting overhang, you can find out the exact length of the roof overhang. The exact location of the second component of the rafters is established by moving the batten to the edge of the side wall and placing a mark between the side wall and the upper end of the frame.

Calculation

The calculation of the hip roof structural elements is based on the Pythagorean theorem. The main parameters of a hip roof include:

We select material and tools

The correct choice of material used in the manufacture of rafters has an important influence on the strength and durability of the hip structure. Whether the roof will be a reliable shelter from bad weather or a flimsy structure subject to rapid wear and tear depends on the responsibility of the developer. When constructing a hip roofing system, the most popular types are hardwood and pine. To avoid damage to wood by pests, the material must be well dried and soaked in antiseptic agents. Professionals recommend using soft tiles as a material for the roof surface. It makes it possible to implement many style solutions and saves both monetary and labor costs for installation. To ensure the strength of the rafter system, roofing craftsmen advise selecting a material of the same composition and cross-section, as well as using a single fastener.

The list of necessary tools and materials should include:

Screwdriver;
Level;
Hammer;
Roulette;
Circular Saw;
Roofing nails and screws;
Pencil;
Insulation;
Waterproofing film;
Wire (diameter 4 mm);
Antiseptic;
Marking strip.

After all the necessary measurements and calculations have been made, and the necessary details have been prepared, you can begin installing the roofing structure.

Proper construction of a hip roof with your own hands

Initially, it is necessary to mount the base of the roof - the Mauerlat. With its help, the weight of the roof is evenly distributed along the entire perimeter, so to create a Mauerlat you need a large beam made of hardwood. To begin with, measure the required length of the beam, saw it off, and apply a mark to cut out the joint grooves. Wooden formwork is mounted on the masonry, a layer of concrete is applied to it, into which metal spiers are screwed. The base of the roof will be attached to them. When the concrete hardens, roofing material is laid on it or a layer of bitumen mastic is applied, which performs the function of waterproofing.

Hip roof marking scheme

In the timber, carefully treated with an antiseptic and water-repellent varnish, holes are drilled for the spiers, after which the timber is placed on the spiers and secured with anchor bolts. It is not recommended to cut holes for rafters in the Mauerlat and use many studs for fastening, as this may negatively affect its strength.

After the Mauerlat is installed, you should mount a bench to support the ridge, and along its line, secure the support posts themselves.

A ridge beam is installed on the support posts. It is worth considering that the ridge bears the main load of the central roofing part, so it must have an impressive thickness. After this, you can begin installation of the rafter system. Sawing is carried out in accordance with the calculated parameters. First, the diagonal rafters are installed. All rafters are attached to the mauerlat using special nails, wire, staples and corners.

The rafters are attached to the mauerlat using special nails, wire staples and corners

Then the central rafters are installed. The average distance between them is 60 cm, but the pitch can be adjusted depending on the angle of the slope and the type of roofing material. The corner rafters are attached to the diagonal rafters last.

After installing the rafter structure, the sheathing is nailed to it, after which, using a construction stapler, a vapor barrier film is attached to the rafters, and sealing tape is attached to the seams. Then the insulation and waterproofing are tightly laid on the rafters, after which wooden planks are fastened across the rafters, finally securing the insulation layer and the outer covering.

Video: hip roof rafter system

Video: attaching the Mauerlat to the armored belt

Ventilation

Don’t forget about roof ventilation, because air circulation is no less important than waterproofing or thermal protection. From below, in the wind hem, the air enters, but it is better to make the exit higher, closer to the ridge beam. If the roof has a wooden wind sheath, the boards are placed a few millimeters from each other. The plastic lining must have perforated components, or soffits. If you have a ready-made binder and its elements are tightly assembled, it would be useful to install small ventilation grilles into it, placing them along the length of the binder at a distance of approximately 80 cm from each other.

A detailed study of the installation of a hip roofing system makes it clear that the process is not simple, but the effort is worth it. In this matter, the main thing is accuracy in measurements and calculations and care during construction work. If you strictly follow the advice of specialists, the result may be above all praise. The hip roof has taken a strong position in modern construction due to its practicality and interesting design. In order for the roof to become a reliable protection from heavy winds and turn the house into a miracle of architectural art, it is necessary to strictly follow the planned plan and check the quality of the work at every stage. This will make it possible to correct shortcomings in the shortest possible time and will avoid wasting time on correcting errors.

The hip roof is very practical and looks elegant. But it takes a lot of effort and expense. It is possible to erect it with your own hands, but the main thing here is to have certain construction engineering skills and strictly follow calculations and diagrams.

Specifics of this type of roof

She is one of the types hipped roof. The top view of the house with it resembles a closed envelope. Specialists called two slopes of a small area, having a triangle format, “hip”. The shape of the other pair of slopes is trapezoid. Their size is larger.

The hip roof is formed by the following units (diagram):

Horse serves as the top of the roof. This is a line formed by rafter tandems in the area where they are fastened. The specificity of the ridge is that it is inferior in length to the structure it covers.

Hips. These are triangular shaped slopes. They are positioned above the end walls and are used instead of a pediment. They are made up of diagonal and intermediate rafters (DS and PS).

Stingrays. Their shape is trapezoid. Their beginning is from the ridge, and their end is in the overhang.

Ribs. These are the angles formed in the areas where the hips and slopes are fastened. The number of hips is equal to the number of DS. Their total number is 4.

Drainage network. Its components: funnels, pipes and gutters. It allows you to drain unnecessary liquid from the surface of such a roof into the sewer system.

Important! The hip roof does not provide for the creation of a residential attic in it. Reason: its two slopes significantly reduce the height of the ceiling in the under-roof area.

Rafters and supports

The differences in the installation of a complex hip roof from a gable roof are the presence of a larger number of components. They are as follows (diagram):

Ridge run. This is a special beam. Rafter duets are mounted on it.

Diagonal rafters (DS). They make up the ribs of the hips. From the end of the ridge they follow to the corner nodes of the Mauerlat, connecting to it. They are longer than standard rafters. The material for their creation must have a large cross-section. And this is usually what double boards become. When drawing up drawings, it is important to take into account that the angle of position of such rafters is flatter than that of standard (intermediate) rafters.

Standard or intermediate rafters (RS). The place where their top is secured is the ridge girder, and the area where they end is the mauerlat.

Central standard rafters. There are usually 6 of them. They are connected to the end of the ridge and DS. This connection takes a lot of effort. This requires absolute concentration and adherence to precise markings.

Spawners or legs of short length. On the upper side their contact with the ridge is not allowed. The place where they are connected is the diagonal rafters. The lower the position of the sprig, the shorter it is.

Puff. This is a timber lintel. It is positioned between the standard rafter duo.

Rigel. This is a tie installed in the upper zone of the roof, right under the ridge .

Floor beams. These are puffs mounted below, at the base of the rafters.

Rack. This is a vertical beam. It serves as a support for the ridge and distributes the mass of the roof onto the load-bearing elements. If you need to make the attic area more spacious, the racks can be concentrated in the middle of the rafters.

Strut. These are supports fixed in a perpendicular position to the rafters. They keep them from sagging. A brace is extremely necessary if the roof slopes reach a length of 4.5 - 5 m.

Sprengel. This is a device for supporting diagonal rafters. The sprengel is formed by two beams. One mounts two parts of the Mauerlat. The second with emphasis enters the first and also into one DS.

Calculations, drawings, projects

Before creating a hip roof, it is necessary to carefully calculate its constituent structures. How to do this correctly? Before calculations, a diagram of the building to be covered with all parameters is created. Then, using simple formulas based on the Pythagorean theorem, you can calculate:

Diagram with parameters:

Ridge height value. The data here is: h = b x tanα/2. Here b is the length of the structure between the rafters from the end plane. And a is the angle of position of the slopes.
Length of standard rafters. Data: e = b / 2 x cosα. Here b is the same length, a is the same angle, e is the length of standard rafters.
Area of slopes. Data: S = 2ea. Here S is the total surface area of the slopes, e is the same parameter from point 2, and is the length between the rafters along the length of the building.

DS length:

Hip roof with parameters:

These diagrams help to calculate the length of the specified rafters only with the availability of data on the parameters of standard rafters.

The required pitch between rafter tandems is also often found in reference books, based on the type and thickness of the working material (wood) and the length of the slopes. The calculation results are reflected in the drawing. Next we mark the roof using it.

It is also very convenient to perform the above calculations on a calculator.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat is the basis for installing the roof. It is needed to distribute the mass of the roof over all load-bearing elements. It is usually created from wooden beams, and hardwood is used. The greater the mass of the roof and the more complex its configuration, the larger the cross-section of the Mauerlat. As a rule, craftsmen use pine beams with minimum parameters of 15 x 15 cm.

The installation of the Mauerlat takes place before the construction of the house. How to do:

Working with timber. It is measured and sawn to the required length. In the corner areas, the mauerlat is attached to each other using the “claw” method. To cut out a groove for fasteners, markings are made.
On the last laying line board formwork is created. It is filled with viscous concrete. Metal spiers are inserted into it to fasten the necessary timber.
After the concrete has hardened, a waterproof layer. Here you can use bitumen mastic or roofing felt.
Should treatment of timber with protective agents. You need antiseptics and a fire retardant with powerful penetration, as well as a moisture-proof varnish.
In the Mauerlat holes are marked and created for metal spiers. A marker will do for marking. To create - a drill.
timber is placed on these spiers and firmly secured with anchor-type bolts.

Construction stages

Here it is imperative to follow the instructions and technology. The stages of work are as follows:

Pulls are placed. They are floor beams. At least two of them are required. Racks are placed on them. Specialists install a boardwalk on top of them. This way the rafter network is built more conveniently and safely.
Attaching the posts to the tie rods. More racks can be used. But excess weight for the structure is needed only when absolutely necessary. While the network is not stable, the racks are fixed for a while with vertical struts.

Scheme step by step:

To create a hip roof, a soft roof is usually used. It is easier to cover slopes with complex configurations. For such a roof, a continuous sheathing is prepared from layers of moisture-resistant plywood.

For fixing roofing material to sheathing special fasteners are used. Its composition: stainless steel with a rubber cap. The method of positioning the sheets is with an overlap of 10-15 cm. This creates protection against moisture ingress. The steeper the slope, the more you need to follow this method.
After laying the roof, the roof is insulated from the inside. You can create windows, a drain and even a chimney in it.

For the gazebo

A hip roof is an ideal option for private houses. Its competent creation is impossible without special skills, calculations, hard work and patience.

Hip roofs can also be created on smaller buildings, for example, gazebos. But only the following types of gazebos are suitable for such a roof:

Square shape. Here the roof is made up of four slopes - triangles of the same size. They connect at one point. The horse is not created. Scheme:

Rectangular shape. The roof is formed by two slopes - trapezoids and two slopes - triangles. At the top is a skate. It follows the long plane of the rectangle. Photo:

Mandatory building materials

We build a hip roof from the following materials:

Wooden beam. Suitable parameters: 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm. A power plate is formed from it, as well as vertical posts and puffs.
Boards. Required cross-section: 5x5 cm and 10x15 cm. Rafters are formed from them. Diagonal rafters require boards of greater length and thickness. Therefore, the option with double boards is popular.
. Required dimensions: 3x10 cm or 4x10 cm. The sheathing is mounted on them.
Reiki. Parameters: 3x3. They will serve as a counter lathing.
Wind board.
Board for cornice.

All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Rafter network design

Scheme:

Creating a hip roof for a gazebo is also impossible without the stage of drawings and calculations. Calculated:

slope angle;
ridge height;
load (to determine the cross-sections of the rafters).

A drawing is made based on the calculated data. It reflects the parameters and relative positions of the components of the rafter network. It has many analogies with the rafter network used to cover a house. As can be seen from the diagram, the composition here is almost the same. There are just a few nuances:

Roof support and weight distribution- This is a function of the upper harness.
Step between standard rafters, which rest on top on the ridge girder, and on the bottom on the base (mauerlat), is as follows: 60 - 120 cm.
Narozhniki, forming a slope, are placed in increments of 60-80 cm.
There is no need for formwork or concreting.

Hip roof and bay window rafter system from Anton Weber:

Stages of erecting a hip roof on a gazebo

A gazebo with a hip roof is built according to the following rules:

The upper frame of the gazebo frame is strengthened. A board is needed here. You can also use two layers. The boards can be overlapped on top of each other. Along the longest side of the structure, a tie beam is mounted to the frame. The fasteners here are metal corners.

You need to retreat half a meter from the middle of this puff. Two meter stands are placed at this distance. Their verticality is maintained by temporary struts. Their tops are then fastened with a ridge girder.
Installation of standard rafters. If the run is 1 m, it is necessary to mount a pair of rafters on each side, along the edges of the run. There will also be a meter interval between them.

The sheathing is being laid. It should be solid. She is nailed down.
The roofing material is being cut. It is secured with galvanized fasteners (screws). The joints are covered with sealant.

The following is an example of a well-designed hip roof on a gazebo:

How to create a project

The author of the blog “Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse in the village!” talks about creating a hip roof project for a bathhouse in the SketchUp program.

A beautiful and stylish solution for decorating a country house in a European style. Made from practical material, such a roof can be complemented with elegant elements, such as roof windows.

Laying a hip roof with your own hands is not so easy. To do this, you need to consult with specialists who carry out calculations of hip roof structures in order to design a strong and durable roof.

By doing the work according to the instructions and following the diagrams, you can achieve the desired result.

What is a hip roof?

A hip roof is a type of hip roof. Two of its slopes have a trapezoidal shape, and the other two (end ones) are triangular, which is how it got its name - hip.

Types of hip roofs

There are many popular hip roof designs. The most popular hip roofs are shown in the photo.

Half hip roof. The most common methods for installing a Dutch hip are. It is characterized by trimmed slopes if there are attic compartments in which windows need to be cut. The Danish hip is distinguished by a shortened front, on which lies a trapezoidal slope.

Hip hip roof. In his scheme there are four equal-sized slopes. Suitable for square rooms. It is organized on four diagonal rafters, with a slight angle of inclination (no more than 30 degrees).

American hip roof. The design involves optimizing the space under the roof to increase the attic room.

Roof with a cuckoo. Functional and decorative solution. Increases the area of the attic. It is also possible to organize additional sections, such as storage rooms or attics. This structure allows you to glaze vertical walls.

Roof with canopy. Typically, this design is chosen for a house with a porch. It differs in that the sheathing for the canopy protrudes over the main rafter part.

Gable roof. If the diagonal rafters meet (as is the case with a square roof shape), the ridge is not installed. This type of system belongs to the tent type. There is no need to install a ridge in symmetrical dome roofs.

Asymmetrical hip roof. If it is necessary to optimize the space under the roof as much as possible, this type of construction is used. All slopes in it have different lengths and angles of inclination. A very complex design to implement.

Advantages and disadvantages

The coating is resistant to winds and loads (snow);
The design is made in such a way that it allows the installation of eaves overhangs along the entire perimeter of the building;
I do not let moisture into the room;
Visually elongate the height of the attic structure.

Difficult arrangement of the roof truss system. The difficulty lies in the volumetric calculations of hip roofs, and this leads to an increase in the price of the roof.
Since the design assumes a wide angle between the slopes, this leads to a narrowing of the space under the attic.
If windows are installed in a hip roof, moisture may enter the premises. To eliminate this problem, windows must be covered with moisture-proof materials.
The rafter system can only be completed by an experienced craftsman who knows the intricacies of this type of roofing.

Roof diagram for a rectangular building frame

The design diagram for this type of roof is like a sealed envelope. The hip roof drawings indicate the following elements:

The ridge of the roof is the junction of the ribs of the trapezoidal sides. The ridge is shorter than the base of the room being covered. Slopes are attached from the ridge to the overhang;
The other two triangular sides of the covering (hips), held together by diagonal rafters;
Four ribs at the junction of the slopes and hips.

Design elements

Supports made of beams based on Mauerlat. Necessary for uniform distribution of roof mass over all load-bearing parts. The width of one beam is 100-150 × 150 mm.
Racks supported by supports, the height of which depends on the angle of inclination of the hips.
The ridge rail, fixed to the posts, is the support for the rafter hip roof.
Main rafters. They rest on a Mauerlat base and a ridge rail.
Diagonal rafters.
Narozhniks - continue the surface of the main slopes, trusses - strengthen the supporting structure.
Struts and sheathing. The sheathing forms a platform for the roof.

Operating procedure

The sequence of installing a hip roof begins with drawing up a drawing of the roof plan. Next, depending on the width between the walls of the room, the necessary parameters are calculated.

The next stage is the selection and purchase of the necessary materials and tools. When everything is ready, we proceed to lining the walls. This is necessary for installing the rafter system. For subsequent installation, the walls must be marked.