What to do to make radishes grow faster. Growing radishes: little tricks

Radishes are considered the most popular early-ripening crop and are classified as green vegetables. The leaves and roots contain a large amount of vitamins. At first glance, it may seem that growing this crop is a simple process. However, to get a rich harvest, you should remember the basic rules for growing and do not forget to thin out the seedlings.

Typically, for radishes, a frequent sowing method is used to make it easier for the crop to break through and not be drowned out by weeds. In addition, this is done so that poor seed germination does not affect the future harvest.

Radish care consists of:

glaze;
thinning;
loosening;
feeding.

After about 5 days, when the first shoots appear, the first thinning should be carried out, since radishes are a light-loving crop and will stretch out from shading and shoot arrows early.

The optimal distance between sprouts is 2-3 cm. Seedlings with unfolded cotyledon leaves can be transplanted to a new location. And plants with small leaves are destroyed.

In addition, thanks to thinning, the leaves of the plant take a horizontal position. This position prevents the appearance of arrows.

Unprepared radishes

It is difficult to say exactly when to thin radishes. Usually you need to thin out a second time after about a month. It is necessary to leave a distance so that the root crop can grow and develop. To do this, seedlings are thinned out at a rate of 5-6 cm between plants. The torn root vegetables can now be eaten.

Basic thinning rules:

Thinning is recommended after watering.
The optimal time for thinning is in the evening.
You should hold the ground around the seedling with one hand, and pull the plant out of the ground with the other hand. This simple procedure will reduce the risk of possible capture of a neighboring plant.

After thinning, you need to compact the soil with your hands and water the remaining sprouts with warm water. To improve aeration, it is recommended to loosen the soil between the rows.

To avoid the thinning procedure, you can mix radish seeds with semolina or sand.

Thinning radishes

If this crop is not regularly watered, the root crops will grow dry, bitter, and hollow. However, you should not overwater the plant either, since the root crop will rot. Therefore, in order to get a good, rich, crispy and sweet harvest, it is necessary to control the dosage and moisture supply. After each watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil.

To avoid early and premature flowering of the plant, it is recommended to water the radishes in small portions 2-3 times a week. This procedure helps reduce ground temperature. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the soil, and as it dries out, water the bed with the plant.

In hot weather, you may need to water this plant daily.

The first time the soil is watered immediately after sowing the plant.

An important point when watering is the depth of watering:

First, water the bed so that the water penetrates to a depth of 8 cm;
When the root crops have formed, the plant should be watered to a depth of 15 cm.

For irrigation, simple clean water, a solution of tobacco or ash, or herbal infusion are suitable. It is recommended to combine watering with pest prevention. Radishes have a developed root system and in some varieties the roots can grow up to 30 cm in depth.

This should be taken into account when watering; it is necessary that it has enough moisture to feed it. Improper moistening and drying out of the soil can lead to bolting of the plant, dry and empty root crops.

A few hours before harvesting, the last watering of the plant is carried out. Thanks to this, the root vegetables will be tasty, juicy and will last longer.

Watering radishes

Radishes require nutritious soil, and for this the soil needs to be fed. However, this cult can accumulate nitrates. For this reason, fertilizing should be done carefully and chemical fertilizers should be avoided.

The main application of fertilizers occurs in autumn. When digging, organic matter is added to the soil. In the spring, before planting, complex mineral fertilizers are added to the soil. Such fertilizing is sufficient on fertile soils.
Poor, infertile soils need fertilizing, which is carried out along with watering.
The following are ideal fertilizers for radish growth:

potassium chloride;
superphosphate;
a solution of bird droppings or slurry.

However, it should be remembered that oversaturation with nitrogen can cause bolting of the bush, and not growth of the root crop.

In addition, the soil at the top can be fertilized with humus and peat. However, their layer should not be higher than 1 cm. Thanks to this procedure, less moisture evaporates and it is retained in the ground.

When growing radishes in greenhouses, ventilation should be carried out after each watering to reduce the risk of blackleg disease.

Fertilizing the soil for planting radishes

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during irrigation at a rate of 20-30 g per square meter. It is contraindicated to fertilize radishes with fresh manure, since such fertilizing will cause the plant to bloom rather than develop the root crop. To harvest a rich and large harvest of this crop, it is recommended to regularly weed and loosen the rows.

Radishes need thinning. Without this procedure, the root crop will grow small and deformed, since the seedlings will fight among themselves for the necessary conditions for growth: water, nutrition, light. Therefore, many gardeners thin out radishes at least twice - the first time after germination, and the second time approximately a month after planting.

Little tricks for growing radishes

Is it possible to collect seeds from radishes?

Radishes are usually sown from March to October. It grows well in short day conditions, that is, until the beginning of June. But at the height of summer, only varieties that are resistant to stemming can be sown. I am often asked if it is possible to take seeds from radishes. It is possible, but it all depends on many factors.

For example, you cannot collect radish seeds from hybrid varieties. But there are still few hybrids on sale; their seeds are more expensive than varietal ones. But the fruits of hybrids have a milder taste, beautiful appearance and uniformity of root crops.

But you can and should collect seeds from familiar varieties, but again, not from all plants. So, for example, the seeds of a radish, which, without setting a root crop, immediately went into the shoot, will be defective. Such seed material has degenerated, and after it is sown in the ground, all the sprouts will go back to the arrow and there will be no harvest.

The same applies to plants under which fresh manure has been applied. All the radishes will go down the drain without forming root crops. Premature shoots also occur when sowing radishes in mid-summer or in extreme heat.

Some gardeners believe that full-fledged seeds can be obtained only if the radishes are pulled out, wait until they wilt, and only then plant them again. This method is indeed often used. But in order to speed up the production of seeds. If there is still a lot of time before frost, then the seeds can be obtained without replanting.

The main thing is to choose the strongest plants with large turnips for seeds. When transplanting, root crops are buried in the soil to the base of the stem. The distance between plants is 20-30 cm. To ensure that the seeds are selected, productive inflorescences that bloom 15 days after the start of flowering are removed from the stems.

As soon as the beans turn a dull yellow color, harvesting begins. The stems are cut and tied into bunches, hung in a cool room for ripening. This will take a couple of weeks. When the pods begin to crack when squeezed, they can be placed in a bag for threshing.

Advice: Harvesting from your own seeds does not always live up to expectations, since radishes are cross-pollinated with other cruciferous crops and even wild relatives. So when growing seeds on the site, it is necessary to maintain exemplary cleanliness.

Little tricks for obtaining radish seeds

Seeds purchased in stores do not always have good germination. But their seeds always germinate perfectly and radishes are no exception. There are several subtleties to growing radish seeds.

● First of all, to obtain seeds you need varietal radishes. Hybrid seeds are not suitable for obtaining seed material.

● Plant radish seeds at a distance of 3-5 cm from other flowering cruciferous plants. Even wild relatives, such as rapeseed, must be removed within a radius of at least 30-40 m. Only one variety of radish or radish can be grown for seeds, since different varieties will cross-pollinate with each other.

● The transplanting method is considered the most reliable way to obtain radish seeds, since it will take only 120 days to obtain the seeds. With the direct method, seed production will take all 160 days.

● The resulting radish seeds can be stored for 4-5 years and even longer. So once you sow radishes as seeds, you can get by with your seeds for many years.

● When planting radishes from seeds, keep in mind that you can get about 20 g of seeds from each root crop.

● Radish root crops are selected for seeds when they ripen and varietal characteristics are visible. The largest root crops with characteristics typical for the variety are selected for planting.

● Foliage and roots are trimmed.

Only petioles 4-5 cm long and a root 3 cm long are left. Everything else is cut off. Root crops are dipped in a clay mash and after some time planted on the mother bed. Plants are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other and watered thoroughly.

● Plantings can be favored by various pests. Treatments with Alatar or Golden Iskra (or, if you are a supporter of ecological farming, you can sprinkle the plantings with ash) help.

How to sow radishes correctly?

On the advice of a neighbor, I now sow radishes correctly. A few years ago, a heated discussion broke out between me and my neighbor in the country. My friend assured me that there is a certain technology for sowing radishes, thanks to which the fruit germinates quickly and gives excellent results. I didn’t listen to her and, as usual, sprinkled my radishes with ash. And then I realized that something went wrong. This year I decided to follow her advice. I was very pleased with the result. Now I’m telling you too.

Dig up the soil in which you will sow radishes with a pitchfork and lightly loosen it. I advise you to place the seeds in the hole individually at a distance of 7 cm from each other. If you sow thickly, most of the radishes will not grow. And if, like me, you also sprinkle it with ash so that the psyllid doesn’t eat it, then don’t expect any root vegetables. It is better to cover with covering material or simply spray with Fitoverm. After two days, the radishes will be ready to eat.
But before you send the seeds into the furrows, make sure that the distance between them is 20-25 cm. There should be a good area for nutrition and sufficient lighting. Water the soil thoroughly before planting. Planting depth - 1-2 cm maximum.
Then I sprinkle the furrow with soil, press it lightly with my hand, and for four days the soil retains moisture. And when the radish sprouts, then you need to water the plant very generously every day.

Video: Secrets of planting radish and turnip seeds in the ground

Many people ask me at what depth to sow radishes and turnips. It's different everywhere. For example, in the south, whatever one may say, you have to plant to a depth of 3-4 cm, since the top layer of soil dries out quickly and the seedlings may suffer if planted shallower. In the central zone, the climate allows sowing to a depth of 1 cm and 2 cm. Moreover, they benefit from this, since the shallower the planting depth, the greater the harvest.

I make furrows at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. This is necessary so that fertilizers (ash or superphosphate) can be added between the rows and it is more convenient to fight weeds.

Superphosphate must be added so that at the first stages of life, young shoots receive the fertilizers they need, strengthen their immunity, and form a good root system. If you do not want to use mineral fertilizers, replace them with ash: 1-2 cups per 1 m2.

Which radish will not go into the arrow?

When spring ends, we have to say goodbye to some spring crops along with it. The most offensive thing is to part with radishes. Its juicy, slightly spicy root vegetables are welcome guests on any table. Not at all the tasteless something that is brought to us from Israel. Fortunately, there are several varieties that do not go dry even in the heat; they can be grown in the summer.

Gardeners know: To prevent radishes from going to waste, they must be sown a second time from the end of July, when the days are waning and the nights are getting longer. These are the conditions that radishes need to grow turnips, not arrows.

However, there are varieties that you can take a chance with when planting in June-July. First of all, this is 18 days - a variety that probably every gardener has. It is very early and resistant to flowering. Corsair is one of the largest non-shooting radish varieties. The weight of its fruit reaches 40 g. It is resistant to bolting and Soffit - it has bright red fruits that are not afraid of drought.

In addition to them, you can try the varieties Sora, Duro, Early Red, Molniya F1, Rondar F1, Children's F1, Red Giant and others.

Just remember that radishes like to grow freely. The distance in the row should be around 5-6 cm. Thickened crops grow. Thin out radishes after germination. Plants with small leaves are destroyed, while those with large leaves remain at a distance of 5 cm from each other. This is called crop calibration.

It is equally important to water the radishes regularly, preventing the seedlings from drying out. In this case, the radishes do not burst and become wooden. Better, of course, is drip irrigation. When used, radishes are obtained with a particularly delicate taste. This can also be achieved by mulching the rows with straw.

The addition of fresh manure is also contraindicated for radishes.Because of it, even the most persistent varieties will go into bloom. By the way, this is exactly how some one-day companies get seeds. Seeds obtained in this way are not suitable for sowing, since the plants from them will also go to waste.

Varieties of the earliest radishes worth planting this season

Radishes are the very first spring vegetable. Meanwhile, on the eve of the new harvest, its price has doubled. And for us, passionate gardeners, it’s a sin to follow the lead of sellers. We ourselves have a “mustache” and are quite capable of growing early radishes. Moreover, it will be more vigorous and juicier than fibrous, grass-flavored, store-bought radishes.

In order to grow radishes before everyone else, you need to choose the most ultra-early ripening varieties for planting.
Take, for example, the radish variety 16 days. The name, of course, speaks volumes. But in my practice, I was convinced that on the 16th day it can only be thinned out. But on the 20th day you can already collect the first juicy radishes. The root crops of this variety are round, smooth, bright red, the flesh is white and tender. The taste is delicious. The variety is very productive, resistant to cracking and bolting.
Heat- an early ripening variety that produces a harvest within 20-22 days after sowing. Raspberry-colored root vegetables with tender, dense, juicy pulp with a slightly pungent taste. It is used for forcing, both in open ground and in greenhouses.
The imported variety also deserves attention. Presto. It is removed already on the 16-18th day. The root vegetables are bright red, very juicy, and in excellent presentation. The variety is resistant to cracking and bolting.
Very tasty and beautiful radish variety French breakfast. It ripens on 20-23 days. The root vegetables are cylindrical, the flesh is white, juicy, tender, with excellent taste.
Carmen ripens in 20-22 days. The root vegetables are red, with a slightly pungent taste. The value of the variety lies in its high taste, excellent transportability and resistance to flowering.

The film will help speed up the harvest of radishes

Not everything depends on the variety. It is very useful to cover the beds with film or lutrasil. Or plant radishes in a greenhouse (as we did in our editorial garden). As a result, you can win another three to five days. You just need to put arcs under the film. When sowing under film, the seeds are sown 1-2 cm deeper.
You need to water the bed under lutrasil more often: 1-2 times a week.

Advice: You can sow radishes very early - as soon as the soil allows. To have a salad with radishes on the table until summer, plant them every two weeks.

The shelter is removed only after warm weather sets in, since overheating is more dangerous for radishes than cold.

We speed up the radish harvest with fertilizers

A week after the emergence of seedlings, it is useful to feed the plants with ammonium nitrate: 1-2 matches. box for 10 liters of water. And invigorate the leaves with a solution of urea: 50-60 g per 10 liters of water and 1 teaspoon of microfertilizers such as Ryazanochka or ABS.

How to avoid bolting of radishes?

To avoid the possibility of bolting, sow radishes in April or a little earlier.

For sowing, use large seeds, since small ones most often form a peduncle.

Sow the rows at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other. The distance between plants should be within 4-5 cm. The depth of seeding is 1.5-2 cm.

Spinach sown in one bed among radishes will help protect the plant from damage to the roots. And in order to repel the cruciferous flea beetle, plant onions and garlic next to the radishes.

How to fertilize radishes during growth.

Amateur gardeners complain that the radishes have grown kind of wooden, with empty spaces, not tasty at all, and even piglets refuse to eat them. To my question, what did you fertilize your radishes with, they answer me that they didn’t spare the manure, they sprinkled it from the heart. “Because manure is everything to us!”

Video: Fertilizing radishes with ammonium nitrate.

So, fellow gardeners, if you want tasty, juicy, crispy radishes, then forget the word “manure”. Manure for root vegetables (radishes, beets, carrots) is wasted labor and time. It is manure that will make your vegetables stringy, disgusting and unfit for consumption. It’s better not to fertilize with anything at all if you’re afraid of chemicals. And root crops, such as carrots, beets and radishes, can be planted only after those crops for which you applied manure.

We are not afraid of “chemistry” and two weeks after germination our radishes were watered with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate (1 matchbox per 10 liters of water).

Good luck to you and good harvests!

Radishes are one of the most delicious and healthy plants that you can grow in your garden. To grow radishes, you need to know some of the features of this crop, in particular, study the agricultural technology of growing radishes. Only with the right approach can you get a good harvest.

Radish is an annual plant. It can be characterized as an early ripening, moisture- and light-loving plant, resistant to cold weather.

As a rule, radishes belonging to the European group are grown in our latitudes. This variety has a one-year development cycle, that is, the ripening of roots and seeds occurs within one season. There are also biennial radishes. In this variety, the roots ripen in the first year, and the seeds in the second.

Eating radishes helps eliminate vitamin deficiency. This is especially true in early spring. This effect is ensured due to the high content of B vitamins, vitamin C and other beneficial substances in radishes.

Necessary conditions for sowing

To obtain a rich harvest, it is necessary to provide radishes with certain conditions.

Radishes take root well only if they are planted in loose and light soil. This garden crop does not tolerate drought, so the soil must be well moistened. The soil environment should be neutral or slightly alkaline. The area where radishes are planned to be planted in the spring is recommended to be plowed in the fall and mineral fertilizers added to the soil.

Before planting radishes, it is advisable to fertilize the soil with rotted compost and wood ash. For 1 sq. m. use half a bucket and 200 g of fertilizers respectively. If you are planning early sowing, then it is recommended to make the radish beds high enough (15-18 cm). The beds must be loosened before sowing. Planting should be done in an area that is well heated by the sun.

Radishes love sunlight, so they need to be provided with bright light. If daylight hours last more than 13 hours, then it is advisable to darken the radishes. Otherwise, the sprouts will bloom. The optimal temperature for radishes is in the range from 16 to 18 degrees. The plant does not tolerate temperatures above 20 degrees. Radishes can sprout even at +3 degrees, and already sprouted sprouts can withstand light frosts (up to -3 degrees).

By growing, you can get a harvest every 2-3 weeks. You can start growing radishes in a greenhouse immediately after the top layer of soil (up to 10 cm) thaws.

Radish seeds should be planted in furrows that should be kept moist. The seeds can be soaked before sowing, or they can be planted dry. They must be placed at a depth of approximately 2 cm. The distance between them in the bed should be about 5 cm, and the distance between the rows should be 10 cm. Until the first shoots appear, it is recommended to cover the beds with film. This will help retain heat and moisture in the soil. The seeds should germinate in about a week. If necessary, seedlings can be thinned out.

Radishes need regular moderate watering.

If the plant does not have enough moisture, the root vegetables will grow tough and bitter. If you water radishes excessively, the roots may crack. You can feed the plant with mineral fertilizers; it is advisable to use easily soluble forms.

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Pest and disease control

The main threat to radishes is cabbage flies and cruciferous flea beetles. Protection against these pests will be provided by spraying with an infusion based on wood ash and tobacco dust; the components must first be sifted. The use of chemicals to kill pests is strictly prohibited.

If carried out on soil that has an acidic environment, then the root crops may be affected by a viral disease - clubroot. If this happens, growths will form on the root crops. affected plants must be destroyed, and to prevent the spread of the disease, the soil must be treated with special disinfectants.

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Subtleties of cultivation

Sometimes radishes behave unusually, in such cases it is necessary to perform additional actions on the plant. For example, if the sprouts stretch out too much, then the beds need to be hilled. If yellowness forms on the tops, then you need to feed them with fertilizer containing nitrogen. The soil must contain a sufficient amount of potassium, otherwise the root crop will not form. It is best to grow radishes in the place where potatoes, legumes, cucumbers or tomatoes previously grew. But radishes cannot be planted in soil into which manure has recently been applied. In addition, cruciferous root vegetables and cabbage are not the best precursors for this plant.

If you want to get radish seeds for further sowing, then you need to plant radishes under film and early. Hybrid varieties are not suitable for obtaining seeds, since they do not pass on all their qualities to their offspring. To obtain seeds, you need to select the largest plants, cut the tops on them so that cuttings about 3-5 cm long remain. After about three weeks, a powerful stem will appear, which can reach 80 cm. When the pods containing the seeds open on the seed stem , it can be cut off.

The main thing is to choose the strongest plants with large turnips for seeds. When transplanting, root crops are buried in the soil to the base of the stem. The distance between plants is 20-30 cm. To ensure that the seeds are selected, productive inflorescences that bloom 15 days after the start of flowering are removed from the stems.

Little tricks for obtaining radish seeds

Seeds purchased in stores do not always have good germination. But their seeds always germinate perfectly and radishes are no exception. There are several subtleties to growing radish seeds.

● First of all, to obtain seeds you need varietal radishes. Hybrid seeds are not suitable for obtaining seed material.

● The resulting radish seeds can be stored for 4-5 years and even longer. So once you sow radishes as seeds, you can get by with your seeds for many years.

● When planting radishes from seeds, keep in mind that you can get about 20 g of seeds from each root crop.

● Radish root crops are selected for seeds when they ripen and varietal characteristics are visible. The largest root crops with characteristics typical for the variety are selected for planting.

● Foliage and roots are trimmed.

● Plantings can be favored by various pests. Treatments with Alatar or Golden Iskra (or, if you are a supporter of ecological farming, you can sprinkle the plantings with ash) help.

How to sow radishes correctly?

On the advice of a neighbor, I now sow radishes correctly
A few years ago, a heated discussion broke out between me and my neighbor in the country. My friend assured me that there is a certain technology for sowing radishes, thanks to which the fruit germinates quickly and gives excellent results. I didn’t listen to her and, as usual, sprinkled my radishes with ash. And then I realized that something went wrong. This year I decided to follow her advice. I was very pleased with the result. Now I’m telling you too.

Video: Secrets of planting radish and turnip seeds in the ground

I make furrows at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. This is necessary so that fertilizers (ash or superphosphate) can be added between the rows and it is more convenient to fight weeds.

Which radish will not go into the arrow?

When spring ends, we have to say goodbye to some spring crops along with it. The most offensive thing is to part with radishes. Its juicy, slightly spicy root vegetables are welcome guests on any table. Not at all the tasteless something that is brought to us from Israel. Fortunately, there are several varieties that do not go dry even in the heat; they can be grown in the summer.

Gardeners know: To prevent radishes from going to waste, they must be sown a second time from the end of July, when the days are waning and the nights are getting longer. These are the conditions that radishes need to grow turnips, not arrows.

In addition to them, you can try the varieties Sora, Duro, Early Red, Molniya F1, Rondar F1, Children's F1, Red Giant and others.

The addition of fresh manure is also contraindicated for radishes. Because of it, even the most persistent varieties will go into bloom. By the way, this is exactly how some one-day companies get seeds. Seeds obtained in this way are not suitable for sowing, since the plants from them will also go to waste.

Varieties of the earliest radishes worth planting this season

Radishes are the very first spring vegetable. Meanwhile, on the eve of the new harvest, its price has doubled. And for us, passionate gardeners, it’s a sin to follow the lead of sellers. We ourselves have a “mustache” and are quite capable of growing early radishes. Moreover, it will be more vigorous and juicier than fibrous, grass-flavored, store-bought radishes.

In order to grow radishes before everyone else, you need to choose the most ultra-early ripening varieties for planting.
Take, for example, the radish variety 16 days. The name, of course, speaks volumes. But in my practice, I was convinced that on the 16th day it can only be thinned out. But on the 20th day you can already collect the first juicy radishes. The root crops of this variety are round, smooth, bright red, the flesh is white and tender. The taste is delicious. The variety is very productive, resistant to cracking and bolting.
Heat- an early ripening variety that produces a harvest within 20-22 days after sowing. Raspberry-colored root vegetables with tender, dense, juicy pulp with a slightly pungent taste. It is used for forcing, both in open ground and in greenhouses.
The imported variety also deserves attention. Presto. It is removed already on the 16-18th day. The root vegetables are bright red, very juicy, and in excellent presentation. The variety is resistant to cracking and bolting.
Very tasty and beautiful radish variety French breakfast. It ripens on 20-23 days. The root vegetables are cylindrical, the flesh is white, juicy, tender, with excellent taste.
Carmen ripens in 20-22 days. The root vegetables are red, with a slightly pungent taste. The value of the variety lies in its high taste, excellent transportability and resistance to flowering.

The film will help speed up the harvest of radishes

Advice: You can sow radishes very early - as soon as the soil allows. To have a salad with radishes on the table until summer, plant them every two weeks.

The shelter is removed only after warm weather sets in, since overheating is more dangerous for radishes than cold.

We speed up the radish harvest with fertilizers

How to avoid bolting of radishes?

To avoid the possibility of bolting, sow radishes in April or a little earlier.

For sowing, use large seeds, since small ones most often form a peduncle.

Sow the rows at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other. The distance between plants should be within 4-5 cm. The depth of seeding is 1.5-2 cm.

Spinach sown in one bed among radishes will help protect the plant from damage to the roots. And in order to repel the cruciferous flea beetle, plant onions and garlic next to the radishes.

How to fertilize radishes during growth.

Video: Fertilizing radishes with ammonium nitrate.

We are not afraid of “chemistry” and two weeks after germination our radishes were watered with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate (1 matchbox per 10 liters of water).

Radishes have always been considered the simplest vegetable in agricultural technology - plant it, water it, protect it from the cruciferous flea beetle, and in three weeks it’s time to harvest the first harvest. So that our grandmothers don't grow radishes? This has never happened before!

However, recently, gardeners have increasingly complained about difficulties when growing radishes. The seeds don’t sprout, the root crops don’t form, or the plants immediately go to waste – and after winter you can’t crunch fresh juicy radishes anymore. Let's understand the intricacies of growing radishes in order to avoid failures and unnecessary troubles in the future.

Problem	Possible reasons	Solution
Planted seeds do not germinate.	Most likely, the seeds withered and rotted in too damp and cold soil.	A week before planting, dig a small hole twenty centimeters deep, place the seeds in a fabric bag and bury them. In the ground, the seeds will get very wet, but thanks to the bag they will not rot. After a week, they need to be dug up, dried for two hours and planted.
No root crop is formed.	Lack of potassium in the soil, shaded area.	Plant radishes in a sunny place, adding ash to the soil when planting.
Radishes are formed, but the fruits are fibrous and hollow.	Excess nitrogen in the soil, lack or excess of moisture, planting too deep or radishes are over-planted in the bed.	Timely watering. Do not overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, do not add manure when planting. Sprinkle the seeds no deeper than 0.5 centimeters and remove the ripened root crops while doing so.
The plants shoot up and bloom.	Too hot weather, long daylight hours, damaged roots, small or old seeds.	Early or late boarding. Cover with dark material. Thinning by pinching rather than pulling. Selection for planting large and fresh seeds.

In fact, there are quite objective reasons for poor radish harvests in recent years. The fact is that for several years in a row there has been practically no spring in central Russia. In mid-April there is still snow, and in early May the heat is already thirty degrees. The optimal temperature for growing radishes is +15°C – +18°C. It is not surprising that having planted radishes in early May, we get only flowering “tops” and not a single “root” - it’s too hot.

When to plant radishes? Based on current realities, we can conclude that May is already too late. It is necessary to sow either in March-April or in July-August. Radishes are not planted in June due to short nights. As you know, radishes are a long-day plant. During the period of long days and short nights, it tends to flower and form seeds, and this is the last thing we need. Therefore, radishes are sown when daylight hours are short, or this day is artificially shortened for them.

Radishes can be sown before winter or even directly in winter on the ice crust. With pre-winter or winter sowing, seedlings will appear much faster and the root crops will have time to ripen before the onset of heat.

So, what options do we have for sowing radishes?

When to plant radishes to get a harvest

Option one. Pre-winter sowing. In this case, the bed for radishes is prepared in October-November. A sunny area is selected that is not flooded by meltwater and quickly warms up in the spring. Grooves up to five centimeters deep are cut on it. In the period from November 5 to November 20, radishes are sown with dry seeds in the prepared grooves and covered with peat or humus to a depth of two centimeters.
Option two. Winter sowing. This option is suitable for those who have the opportunity to visit their site in winter. The bed must be prepared, as in the previous case, back in October. In winter, from December to February, they rake away the snow and plant the seeds directly into the frozen ground, again sprinkling compost or peat on top.
Option three. Early spring sowing. For those who have a completely enclosed greenhouse, you can safely plant radishes there in early to mid-March. All that remains is to water the plantings from time to time in order to get a good harvest by the end of April and free up the greenhouse for other crops. Radishes should be sown in open ground as soon as the main snow cover melts. You can sow seeds directly into the remaining snow, on the ice crust. When melting, the water will draw them into the soil to the optimal depth. True, planting in cold soil has one drawback - the seeds can wait too long for heat and rot in the ground. If you don’t want to take risks, you can warm up a bed for radishes in early spring. To do this, a week before the intended planting, the area must be watered and covered with film. Microorganisms will quickly revive the soil, and the film will warm.
Option four. Late sowing. If you didn’t have time to plant radishes in the spring, nothing is lost yet. At the end of July and beginning of August, when the day has waned and some beds have already become vacant, you can try growing radishes again. Late radishes even taste better than early radishes and shoot much less often. It is recommended to cover the bed with the sown seeds with hay. Radishes will sprout well through the hay and will be very juicy and large.

How to sow radishes?

Radishes must be planted in a sunny place; there will be no good root crops in the shade. For radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, legumes, tomatoes or potatoes are considered. The main thing is not to plant radishes after cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables, even if they are green manure (mustard, oilseed radish, rapeseed).

It is not necessary to dig a bed for radishes; it is enough to loosen the area with a flat cutter to a depth of five centimeters. Then make the required number of furrows 2 centimeters deep (if the soil is fertile) or 4 centimeters (if the soil leaves much to be desired). First, a small layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the groove, and then ash. On depleted soils, first of all, place a small layer of compost in the furrow, then sand and ash.

It is better to sow immediately at certain intervals, approximately 4-5 centimeters between plants and 15 centimeters between rows. Then there will be no need to pull out excess plants in the future. Cover the seeds with loose soil, peat or coconut substrate, lightly, without unnecessary zeal. The optimal seeding depth is half a centimeter. Deeply planted radishes become fibrous.

Choose only early ripening varieties for sowing; late varieties simply do not have enough time to gain weight, and they will go to waste. It is highly advisable to conduct a preliminary selection of seeds. Radishes planted with large seeds form root crops faster. And if you are not lazy and soak the seeds for 10-15 minutes before planting, the radishes will sprout the very next day. When sowing with dry seeds, seedlings appear in 3-5 days.

Caring for radishes: watering, mulching, covering

Immediately after sowing, water the radishes well and mulch the soil between the furrows to avoid moisture loss. Sawdust, pine needles, and mowed grass are well suited for mulch. Water for radishes is extremely necessary; without moisture, you can’t even dream of a harvest - the plants will bloom immediately. Therefore, radishes need to be watered abundantly every two days.

If you did not maintain the distance between the seeds during planting, then the radishes that have grown to five centimeters in height will have to be thinned out. It is recommended not to pull out weak and excess shoots, but only pinch them from above. In this way, it will be possible to avoid damage to the roots of plants remaining in the ground, because radishes with damaged roots go into color.

And the biggest difficulty in growing radishes is the fight against the insatiable cruciferous flea beetle. The best method in this difficult matter is shelter. Immediately after sowing, it is necessary to cover the bed with moisture- and breathable covering material and do this until the tops become coarser and no longer attract flea beetles.

During the period of root crop formation, you can artificially reduce daylight hours for radishes - after six o’clock in the evening, cover the bed with radishes with a dark covering material. This technique allows you to achieve an excellent presentation of radishes - smooth, large, juicy and very tasty root vegetables.

Radishes are harvested as the root crops become larger. Under no circumstances should you overstay the harvest in the garden – the root crops will begin to lose their juiciness, become hollow and harden. Therefore, if you have more radishes than you can eat, just cut off the tops, shorten the root and store the radishes in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. She will stay for more than a month.