We make a device for sharpening knives. Knife sharpener, Apex type, from what was on hand Do-it-yourself mechanical knife sharpener

Electric grinders, or, as people say, emery stones, are collected in a great variety from everything that falls to hand; they are often made from motors from washing machines.

I also decided to make myself a homemade machine for sharpening drills, knives, etc. I have a Chinese sharpener, but its quality 😥 well, you understand...

Making such a machine turned out to be one of the easiest things to do :)

Because:

I had an extra engine with 1370 rpm and 370 watts.
I didn’t order an attachment for placing a grindstone on the shaft from a turner, such attachments are sold on our market - just know the diameter of the motor shaft and you can purchase the attachment for only 250 rubles + 200 rubles. for the whetstone.

Making a sharpening machine with your own hands step 1

I installed an electrical box on the engine, placed a capacitor in it to start the engine, a toggle switch - a switch and a power supply for the lamp.

I used a toggle switch from a Soviet tube TV - it turns out to be a reliable thing; first I installed a modern, beautiful Chinese toggle switch - when using it, the machine “stuttered” (worked with some jerks), and replacing the toggle switch with another of the same brand did not help until I installed a Soviet toggle switch.

Out of curiosity, I later installed these Chinese toggle switches on another engine, which also began to “stutter”, it’s a shame, I paid 100 rubles for 2 toggle switches. - I just threw money away...

Well, with the capacitor - everything is standard, I won’t describe 101 times how to connect a three-phase motor to 220V - it’s easy to find on Google, or in our article on.

Backlight for sharpening machine step 2

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For illumination, I used an unnecessary LED table lamp from IKEA, bought for home, but not useful anywhere, the lamp is powered from the mains through an adapter, which I ripped out and hid its board in a box on the motor.

Tool rest for lathe step 3

To attach the tool rest, I used a furniture corner sharpened at the desired angle, then I attached a piece of 32x32 corner to it, in which I sawed a groove and installed a tool rest on it from a piece of 4 mm steel. The tool rest is fastened with a countersunk screw; thanks to the groove in the corner under the tool rest, the tool rest can be moved closer or further from the grindstone. The corner is also attached to the casing with a screw, which allows you to adjust the angle of the tool rest relative to the whetstone.

From a furniture hanger I made a corner for attaching protective glass; for this I used a piece of plexiglass 6 mm thick.

The sharpening stone I used was 200x20 mm gray - I like these ones better for their hardness, the white ones crumble a lot. I know about marking stones, but I don’t do professional steel processing to spend a long time selecting a stone according to its parameters.

When installing the stone, I placed two cardboard washers, as required, so that when tightening the nuts, the whetstone would not burst.

About the safety of a homemade sharpening machine

We read the theory - we know...

The casing of my emery machine is not closed on one side - for safety reasons this is not possible, the casing should cover the stone as much as possible, but I decided for myself that sometimes it is convenient for me to sharpen something on the side of the stone, although this is not recommended. And in general, I usually finish my machines gradually, I think in the future, when I want, I will still make a cover for the casing so that it covers the sharpening stone on all sides.

But my machine also has safety advantages:

the protective glass on Chinese machines is much thinner than I used;
The machine speed is 1380 rpm, although the whetstone is designed for 3000 rpm. per minute This means my stone will have a very small chance of breaking.

What did I get

I received an excellent homemade machine for sharpening drills, knives and other tools, the machine has enough power even for sharpening axes - tested;
The machine speed is low, the sandpaper sharpens better at 3000 revolutions, but mine works quietly and persistently, I would say :)

Recommendation for choosing a motor for a homemade grinding machine

The engine is taken depending on your needs, if you are going to sharpen only awls, small knives, etc., then an engine from a washing machine from the USSR will suit you. Such engines usually have 1380 rpm. per minute and 180-250 watts of power. Now there are motors from modern automatic washing machines, but they are more difficult to connect - you need a special board, but you can regulate the speed on them.

For more confident work, it is better to take a 400W engine and 1380-3000 rpm. Such a sharpener will be a good help in the workshop.

But if you want to work with large parts, sharpen crowbars, for example :), then you need to use a motor of about 750 W or more and 3000 rpm.

Photo of self-made emery:

There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. Firstly, the purchase of an inexpensive device made in China, in further operation, will not provide the product with the required quality.

Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but a significant drawback is the cost. If you don’t have the opportunity or just the desire to pay a tidy sum for a device, you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs; create your own creation based on existing models. Do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine, different types with detailed instructions.

We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of two metal corners connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole in which the knitting needle with the nozzle at the end will be inserted.

Of the options being considered, this one is the least convenient to use, but not easy to manufacture. We will improve the device and try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of pressing angle degrees.

We take ordinary metal plates,

whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the required parameters.

Using a grinder, sharp corners are removed at the ends of the parts (the sides that act as clamps). Using a file, we grind down the edges of the clamps; you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.

According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the threads. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of a noble appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing cuts into your hands).

We purchase a standard aluminum corner and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. We cut threads in the holes intended for the entry of the pin. And the hole that is intended to support the knitting needles must be widened using a needle file.

Next you will need two pieces of metal rod

approximately 15 cm long. We insert them into the outer holes and fix the insertion depth with two nuts of the corresponding diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to size M6. Into a hole of a larger diameter we screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) size M8, onto which a wing nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary ones, but larger in diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts that will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.

Nuts are threaded onto the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with the help of nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.

The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (shaped like the letter “L”), two holders (the outer one with a through hole for a knitting needle), a wing nut and a rod with an M6 thread.

We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.

Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the lowest level of sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation on the support. But, despite this, this device for sharpening knives is quite suitable for use for domestic purposes, and the plus is that it is very simple to manufacture.

In the process of work, we will need two wooden blocks with dimensions 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts of sizes M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “L”).

The tools you need are a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.

Using a regular protractor

We apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. There is no need to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.

Turn the hacksaw over and insert its blunt side into the cut slot. We place the second part on top and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.

Apply the chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. Lightly tap the top of the chisel with a hammer and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood has been removed, we bring the area to the required level using a file.

We drill holes for the bolts and spokes to fit in as shown in the figure. Using fine-grit sandpaper, we smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.

We thread the bolts through the larger holes, then thread regular nuts and tighten them tighter. The smaller ones contain knitting needles (necessary to prevent the blades from sliding down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. At the end we fix everything with a pair of wing nuts.

We imitate a sharpener model from Apex

This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of a fairly massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle; a rod is mounted on the side, on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of sharpening device, despite its dimensions, is the most successful in comparison with the previous ones.

It is easy to use and its sharpening quality is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.

To work we will need the following:

(not a whole one, even a quarter is enough);
magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
metal rod M6 or M8;
small wooden block;
a small piece of plexiglass;
two bolts and three wing nuts;
10 screws;
4 rubber feet;
saw;
drill;
ceramic clamps (or wood blanks).

First you need to cut three small blanks from a sheet of chipboard. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an 8 cm long element from the block (section 4x2 cm).

We drill two through holes perpendicular to each other in the segment. The first is at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second is at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the block and right up to the hole, we cut out a pile of wood 1 cm thick. The plexiglass cut has the following parameters: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the blade.

We take the first largest workpiece

from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we place the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.

We place the edge of a medium-sized part on the top of the small workpiece and again connect them using 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle piece should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the platform of a large part, again using 2 self-tapping screws.

Using a drill, drill a shallow cavity into medium-sized parts. It should be located almost at the very edge of its highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.

We mount a magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the board) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.

We place a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board so that its hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt with a washer on it through them and screw the nut from below.

A hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part. The rod itself is fixed using two nuts: a regular one and a wing nut. To prevent them from cutting into the surface of the board, we separate them using washers.

A blank from a block is screwed onto a fixed rod.

A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed on the outside with a nut. By tightening the knob, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod; when we release it, we move it up and down freely. The sharpening angle is adjusted using this bar (raise or lower along the rod).

The element for clamping the sharpening blade is assembled from a cut of a metal rod, two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed on for greater stability of the product.

We looked at three different options for sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a specific option based on your needs, as well as your skills in a similar work plan.

Information to note : , .

The blades in a cutting tool are the basis of everything. A kitchen knife, grinder wheels, chains for a brush cutter or chainsaw with a well-sharpened blade simplify and speed up the work process.

You can sharpen a tool in a professional workshop or at home if you make a knife sharpening machine with your own hands from simple materials.

For knives used at home, you do not need a special tool for sharpening; it is enough to have a sharpener in the form of a bar on hand. But if you have a chainsaw at home, the chains of which also need regular sharpening, or an angle grinder, the disks of which constantly become dull, then it is better to make the installation yourself. The essence of the device is this: a block is attached to the desktop in two variations - with or without adjustment. For those who do not understand the essence of making a sharpener with your own hands from the text, you can watch photo or video master classes.

Device manufacturing diagram

In order for the device to be of high quality and safe, you need to calculate in advance the dimensions of the machine for sharpening knives with your own hands and select the necessary materials. The first thing to do is calculate the angle between the working part of the cutting blade and the block.

Next comes the selection of base materials (support) and stone. You can make a machine from glass covered with sandpaper or stone attached to a support. The first option is less expensive, and the sandpaper can be changed at any time, but a more reliable installation is made of stone.

Process nuances

In order for the machine for sharpening knives according to the drawings with your own hands to turn out perfect and last for more than one year, you need to take the advice of experts. The first thing to take into account is what type of blade will be sharpened.

After all, an individual angle is selected for each knife:

Blades for cutting hard objects (for example, cardboard, wood, metal), chainsaws - 30-45 degrees.
Hunting and tourist knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees.
Kitchen cutting tools for slicing various products need to be sharpened at 20-25 degrees.
Simple knives for slicing bread, vegetables and fruits require 15-20 degrees of sharpening. Regular household scissors, as well as razor knives, should be sharpened at the same angle.

Necessary materials

If you need to make a sharpening machine, you will need the following materials:

several wooden beams;
sandpaper;
sawing tools;
drill with several drills.

Simple machine. Step-by-step instruction

Step 1. Take three slats and place them so that together they form the letter H. The width of the middle rail should be equal to the width of the saw block. Repeat the procedure.
Step 2. Place the slats perpendicular to each other, connecting their bases - the main structure for holding the saw bar is ready.
Step 3. This is one of the most important steps! It is necessary to correctly calculate the angle of attachment of the bar relative to the slats. Calculate it using measuring tools and mark the places where the timber is attached along the vertical and horizontal slats.

If you want a universal device, then you need to make several retractable bolts at once at a distance apart so that you can change the tilt of the beam if necessary. This can be done using simple measuring tools and drills. After this, you can cut the slats to a convenient length.

The inconvenience of such a machine is that you will have to independently control the position of the knife relative to the beam. If you don’t want to think about anything at all while sharpening knives, scissors or chains, then you should make a more complex machine.

Universal machine. Step-by-step instruction

Read each step carefully and, where possible, draw a drawing for each step indicating all dimensions - this will be an excellent help in your work:

Cut two rectangular trapezoids from plywood, the bases of which will be 60 and 170 mm, and the side at a right angle will be 230 mm.
Cut a rectangular board with dimensions 230 by 150 mm.
Fix the rectangle between the bases so that it protrudes 40 mm upward.
Cut a block measuring 60 by 60 mm and secure it to the base of the wedge.
Using a drill, make a vertical hole in the block at a distance of 50 mm from the center. Insert the fittings at the top and bottom of the hole, and into them - a pin of the appropriate diameter, 25 cm long.
Process the rectangular base. At the level of the 40 mm protrusion, make a cut of approximately 2 mm so that a sheet of sandpaper can be attached to this place
Make a fix:

- Take an L-shaped plank with dimensions of 15 by 18 cm along the long edges and an approximate width of each shelf of up to 5 cm.
- Take a rectangular plank 5 by 5 cm.
- Make a groove in the board at the level of the stud and attach the strips to it with minimal movement.

8. Make a regulator:

- Secure the stud with a nut so that it does not rotate.
- Cut a block from hard wood with dimensions of 20x40x80 mm and secure it to the stud with nuts.
- On the wide side, make a hole of 9 mm with a distance of 15 mm from the edge.
- Cut two blocks of 50x80x20 mm from hard wood and make one hole in them at a distance of 20 mm from the edge in the center.
- Take the weld of the stud and the smooth rod and fasten the blocks to it as follows: first the locking nut, then the first block. Then an aluminum profile, then a second block and another retainer.
- Glue the sandpaper to the aluminum profile.

The universal sharpening tool is ready. Cut out several templates with different angles so that you can use them as a guide when working. Remember that pre-created drawings will help you at every stage of creating a tool - do not neglect this step, otherwise it will be very difficult to avoid mistakes.

It doesn’t matter what you need to sharpen - a simple kitchen knife, garden or nail scissors, or chainsaw chains - such a tool will cope with any job if you set the angle correctly and remember to use it when the need arises.

General issues

Any cutting tools require proper care, as they gradually begin to lose their former sharpness, and working with such products becomes painful, almost unbearable. The biggest irritant is a dull knife, which turns into an absolutely useless object. To avoid such situations, it needs to be sharpened periodically, and sharpeners are very helpful in this, buying which is not at all a problem. However, not all owners are inspired by this option, because high-quality devices cost a lot. An elegant and logical way out of the situation is a device for sharpening knives with your own hands. Functionally, homemade tools are in no way inferior to their competitors - factory models, but they allow you to achieve significant savings.

Introduction to the concept of “sharpening angle”

The purpose of the process is known to everyone - to give the blade sharpness. However, this operation is slightly different for each type of instrument. The reason is the purpose of the knife - household, hunting, fishing. The difference between them is not at all visible at first glance, but it is precisely this that determines what the tools are used for. This is the sharpening angle, but it can only be seen and compared for those knives that have not yet been sharpened at home. The following values are accepted:

8-12° - for scalpels, straight razors;
10-15° - for fillet knives (fillet knives);
15-20° - for cutting food;
20-25° - for general purpose tools;
20-40° - for hunting knives;
30-50° - for massive special knives (for example, for a machete).

Smaller angles are designed for working with soft materials, larger angles for hard substances.

There is no single standard for all instruments. Some Western manufacturers of hunting weapons consider a sharpening angle of 23° to be ideal. There are companies in America that sharpen similar and combat knives at 40°. There are tools with different sharpening angles for parts of the blade. A serious military example is the Russian saber (40 and 30°). Such weapons become universal, but for the home craftsman this sharpening has a disadvantage - it is much more difficult to work with.

In order to be able to sharpen knives correctly, making an almost professional device for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need to provide for the possibility of changing its angle. This task is the most difficult: both during design and during manufacturing.

Grinding stone grit

Abrasive whetstones differ in grain size. There is a conditional division: small stones, medium stones and coarse stones. The accepted classification is numbers - the number of grains located in a unit area. Some manufacturers (for example, Chinese) make duplicate inscriptions in English for the convenience of customers.

Extra coarse: 200-250 - extremely coarse. They are completely unsuitable for sharpening knives.
Coarse: 300-350 - rough. These stones are used only for severely dull or damaged blades.
Medium: 400-500 - average. You can get by quite easily without an abrasive of this grain size.
Fine: 600-700 - small (thin). This is the most popular type of whetstone for sharpening knives, including at home.
Ultra/extra fine: 1000-1200 - very fine. They are used for final processing of the blade, which they want to bring to shine.

Sharpening stones should have a convenient shape. It is optimal if the length of the stone significantly (1.5-2 times) exceeds this parameter of the blade. The most practical products are those that have different grain sizes: coarse on one side, fine on the other. For ordinary household knives, a modest set of sharpening stones will suffice. It consists of 2 medium-grain bars (different) and the same number of small-grain stones, one of them can be ultra-fine.

The bars differ in origin. Natural sharpening stones (corundum, slate) have several disadvantages - quick grinding and, as a rule, the absence of fine-grained products. These materials are soaked (or just wetted) in water before work. After this procedure, an abrasive paste is formed on the surface, which guarantees greater sharpening efficiency.

How to sharpen knives by hand?

Without mastering the techniques of manual sharpening, a craftsman will not be able to sharpen a knife correctly, since any device for sharpening knives with your own hands will only make his work a little easier when sharpening the edge of the tool. The process looks like this:

A block of medium or coarse grain is placed on the work table and then fixed.
Calculate the sharpening angle. Begin to sharpen the knife away from you, keeping the angle constant. The movements are uniform and smooth; strong pressure is not required here.
In one movement, the tool is carried to the end of the stone. The edge of the knife being processed must always be perpendicular to the center line of the block, therefore, when approaching the rounded part (towards the tip), the blade is turned, trying to maintain the required perpendicularity as much as possible.
When the movement is completed, the tip is not removed from the surface, but the “walk” begins in the opposite direction. The steps are repeated until a thin continuous “burr” appears on the back side of the blade, which is checked with a finger, which is drawn perpendicular to the edge. If it is smooth along the entire length of the blade, then this part of the operation is completed. Otherwise, work continues along the entire length until the ideal is achieved.
Change the block to a second product - with a finer grain size. Sharpening continues away from you, but without the reverse movement. The second side is treated in the same way.
Switch to another pair of sharpening stones - small ones. In the first of them, the process with movement is repeated only from oneself.
When the burr edge can hardly be felt, they move on to the last sharpening stone - the smallest one. On it, the movement away from you is done only once on each side, while simultaneously reducing the pressure to a minimum.

The remaining mini-defects are dealt with using a belt glued to the beam, rubbed with GOI paste. They do this by alternating sides, turning the edge back. Many people saw such a simple process in old Soviet films.

Homemade machines

A device for sharpening knives with your own hands makes it relatively easy to solve the main problem - to guarantee a constant angle of inclination of the blade relative to the block. Some simple devices are easy to make. Those sharpeners that provide greater comfort are already more demanding of the master.

Elementary vertical device

It consists of a corner frame and a keystone. Despite the primitive design, the prices for these store-bought goods are quite high, and replacement sharpening stones have to be purchased separately. Any craftsman who has the following on his farm can make this device for sharpening knives with his own hands:

four bars of the same size;
grindstone;
drill, drill bits;
protractor;
bolts, nuts.

This sharpening device allows you to hold the knife strictly vertically, which will greatly facilitate the work with the cutting tool. The process goes like this:

First of all, two wooden corners are made from timber, the elements of which are placed at an angle of 90° to each other.
Having accurately connected both parts and fixed them, make marks for the holes corresponding to the diameter of the bolts. Then they are drilled.
The parts are connected with bolts, and the elements are slightly tightened with nuts.

The device is ready for use. The most important thing in it is the correct determination of the required angle for sharpening the blade. This is done using a protractor. After setting the angle of inclination, the block is inserted and the nuts are tightened until the stone is securely fixed. If you modify the tool a little, the sharpening stone and knife can be swapped. The device has one downside: it is impossible to smoothly adjust the angle of the whetstone.

Sharpener from mounting angles

To make this sharpening device you need to prepare:

metal corners (material thickness - 6 mm, size - 90x90 mm);
whetstone;
2 small metal rectangles (jaws for clamping stones);
threaded rod M6, length - 160 mm;
a knitting needle, electrode or other thin rod;
drill, screwdriver;
file, hacksaw, pliers;
bolts, nuts.

The work itself is performed according to the following algorithm:

Holes are made in the corners into which threads are cut.
Grind off the bevels on the jaws, which are designed to fix the blade. Otherwise, they will become an obstacle to the movement of the grindstone.
All sharp edges and corners are processed with a file.
Holes are drilled in the metal sponge rectangles, then a thread is made for the connecting bolt. The touchstone is fixed.
A knitting needle bent at an angle of 90° is inserted into the hole of one of the jaws and then fixed.

This spoke part will play the role of fixing the angle of inclination of the sharpening stone. The advantage of this model is the ability to change the angle of inclination over a wide range, which will be an additional advantage for processing various knives, as well as other cutting tools.

Plywood sharpening machine

Most parts of this device can be made from scrap materials, but in this case plywood was used for its manufacture. The master is free to take polished or laminated material. You will need:

sheet of plywood, its thickness is 8-12 mm;
wood (hardwood), carbolite or textolite for the adjusting block (20x40x80 mm);
sheet steel, thickness - 1 mm;
grindstone;
timber (60x60 mm);
metal pin (diameter - 10-12 mm, length 250 mm);
hacksaw (jigsaw, grinder);
shoemaker (sectional) knife;
drill (screwdriver);
2 fittings for the stud (internal thread - M10);
rasp;
thicknesser;
self-tapping screws, bolts, nuts (plus M10 wing nuts), washers.

Plywood is a lightweight material. In order for the base to be stable, it is better to make it heavy enough. “Horseshoes” made from a 20x20 mm metal corner can cope with this task.

Base

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

Parts are made from plywood - 2 sidewalls and an inclined plane. Having drilled three holes in the side elements and 6 in the ends (3 in each) of the inclined part, they are temporarily connected with self-tapping screws.
In the rear part, between the sidewalls, four self-tapping screws (2 on each side) secure the timber. In it, stepping back 25 mm from the edge, holes are made for the pin: first they work from above and below with a thin drill, then they are expanded. The fittings are screwed in on both sides. Insert the adjusting pin.

Podruchnik

Remove the upper part of the base, since it is necessary to build a device on it for pressing and fixing the cutting tool. The support is assembled from 2 steel strips: 60x170 and 40x150 mm.

Stepping back 40 mm from the front edge, use a hacksaw to saw down the groove; its depth is 2 mm. Using a shoemaker's knife, remove the top two layers of plywood so that a steel plate 2 mm thick fits into the sample.
The metal elements are folded together (the smaller one is at the bottom), making equal indentations along the edges, then 3 through holes (6 mm) are drilled. The plates are tightened with bolts, the heads of which are placed on top. They are welded to the plate, the beads are removed, and they are ground.
Mark and drill holes in the sample of the inclined part, then secure the tool rest with nuts.

Pressure bar

The fixation mechanism also consists of 2 parts: the upper bar is L-shaped (80x150 mm, width 45-50 mm), the bottom is rectangular (50x100 mm).

The smaller part is placed below, at the far edge of the larger one. 2 holes are made in both: 25 mm away from the edges of the bottom plate, then the top plate is drilled. Both elements are tightened with bolts (8 mm) and driven in opposite directions. The caps are processed in a similar way: they are welded and then ground.
On the inclined part, stepping back from the edge where the adjusting pin is located, 40 mm, use a thickness planer to draw a line. Holes are made at a distance of 25 mm from the top and bottom ends (8 mm). They connect their edges with lines, then make a cut with a jigsaw and widen it with a file to 8.2-8.5 mm.
Both planks are connected through a groove, the elements are tightened with bolts, and a lamb is screwed onto the plank from below.

Adjustment system

To secure it, place a washer on the stud and screw on a nut, which is tightened so that the rod cannot turn.

15 mm are retreated from the edge of the block; a through hole is drilled in the end on both sides, which is expanded to 9 mm. Then a thread is cut into it.
Stepping back 50 mm from the resulting axis, drill a hole (approximate diameter - 14 mm) in the flat part of the part, it is perpendicular to the first, vertical one. It is well flared with a rasp.
The resulting block is screwed onto a stud. To ensure its fixation, it is controlled from below and above with lambs.

Sharpening carriage

It is made from a 30 cm pin and a rod, the thickness of which is the same 10 mm. They are welded together. To fix the block, 2 elements (20x50x80 mm) are cut out of solid material. A hole is made in the central part of each of them, the distance from the top edge is 20 mm, the diameter is 10 mm.

First, a wing is screwed onto the carriage, then a washer, bars, again a washer, and then a nut. In such a bar you can easily fix sharpening stones, but craftsmen strongly recommend making your own set of replacement whetstones.

The basis for them will be a rectangular aluminum profile, the width of the flat side of which is 40-50 mm. It is sanded, degreased, then Moment is applied to the surface, then sandpaper of different grain sizes is glued on. It is better to take the material on a fabric basis. You can glue suede fabric to one element from the set to be able to straighten the blades with GOI paste.

“Rules for correct” sharpening

The blade is fixed parallel to the edge of the tool rest, then it is pressed with a bar. After inserting the template, adjust the angle between the plane of the working tool and the sharpening block.
If the blade is already very far from ideal, sharpening begins with a coarse whetstone (400). Once the runway is free of ripples or creases, the grain is reduced by sanding the sides in both directions with minimal effort.
The final stage of the operation is straightening with a block of suede cloth and abrasive paste applied to it. In this case, the movement can only be done in one direction - towards you.

It’s not difficult to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, especially if you choose a very simple model. More advanced devices will take much longer, but they are certainly worth every minute spent, because the savings are serious. What models you can create on your own can be seen in the photos and videos. One of them is here:

Dull knives in the household can not only cause a bad mood for the housewife, but also cause accidents. Hardware stores have an assortment of tools designed for sharpening knives, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a machine for sharpening knives yourself; the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to craft.

Types of stones for processing blades

Before you start making a knife sharpening machine with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with information about its components. Sharpening stones, or they may also be called abrasive stones, are one of the decisive factors in achieving an excellent result, but the skill of the master plays an equally important role.

Types of whetstones

So to get the perfect sharpening you will have to practice a lot.

There are the following types of stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:

Tools that require water to operate. The advantage of this type of sharpening stone is that it saves material - the surface of the tool is less susceptible to wear.
Oil stones are similar in structure to water stones, but have an oily surface.
Natural stones are made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone undergoes industrial processing.
Artificial stones - artificial materials are used in their production. It is believed that instruments made from non-natural components are inferior in quality to natural materials, but they are also quite cheap.

If desired, you can make a homemade abrasive block. To do this, you need to take flat plexiglass 5 mm thick, rectangular in shape, and stick sandpaper on it using double-sided tape. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener; it is convenient because when the sandpaper wears out, it is easy to replace.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Exact observance of a given angle is the main requirement when processing a cutting surface with an abrasive tool, and it is its value that affects the sharpness of the blade.

Using a simple marker you can control the turning angle; just paint over the area being sharpened with it. Uniform erasing of paint indicates good quality of the blade.

Necessary conditions for a sharpening machine

In order to make knives with your own hands, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, then he can develop them himself or use ready-made drawings that are offered in specialized literature.

For ideal processing of the cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:

reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
compliance with the angle, during the sharpening process the angle must be constant;
The design of the machine must provide for the possibility of changing the sharpening angle.

You can read below about how to make your own blade straightening devices that are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.

DIY knife sharpener

The most affordable option for a sharpening device

We are making the fastest version of the device. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars must be the same. The wooden corners are fastened together using adjustable screws, and a sharpening block is securely fixed between them at the required angle.

Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:

the processing angle has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient during a long processing process;
the need for rigid fixation of the device on the working surface for its stability;
When sharpening, you need to constantly monitor the tension of the ties so that the block does not change its position.

But it should be noted that such simple homemade products are quite suitable for processing home kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in production.

Manual sharpener with adjustable stone

This machine is a more complex design, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine called the Lansky sharpener.

Lansky sharpener

The advantage of such models is the reliable fixation of the knife blade.

The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw stand with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which an abrasive stone is mounted. By moving the bar along the screw rod, you can change the angle of metal processing.

The advantages of machines with a similar design include:

high processing accuracy;
the possibility of replacing the block with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
The wide support base allows you to secure the machine on any table.

When operating the machine, the only difficulty lies in the long-term adjustment of the position of the sharpening stone. If you plan to process different types of blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.

Possibility of adjusting the position of the knife

An alternative to a machine with a moving sharpening stone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the whetstone. Basically, its design is similar to the machine with an adjustable bar, a little easier to manufacture.

A movable block is mounted on the base plane to secure the rod with the bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one is adjustable, the other is persistent. Using an adjustable clamp, you can adjust the sharpening angle.

The only drawback of this model is the appearance of wear on the bar in one specific place. This drawback can be eliminated by installing a long pin to adjust the edge relative to the surface being processed.

Each option described above has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making your choice in favor of one model or another, you need to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for operating the machine.