Do-it-yourself wooden door step by step instructions. How to make a front door with your own hands? Paneled door structure

Sections of the article:

Without doors, even the most sophisticated building can hardly be called a home. Entrance, interior, balcony doors not only protect the home from thieves and noise, but also make it more comfortable and attractive. Very often in the design decision, it is the doors that play the role of the final chord, without which all the decoration loses its chic.

Over the fact that a wooden door with their own hands will be much better than a purchased one, every zealous owner must have thought at least once in his life. There are many reasons for this, it could be:

Non-standard opening sizes;
Lack of funds for the purchase of a finished door;
Lack of a suitable model;
Desire to have an environmentally friendly atmosphere in the house.

Today, nothing is impossible either for an experienced craftsman, or even for a beginner who first picked up a planer and a hammer. Do-it-yourself wooden door is a topic on which you can find a wide variety of instructions, descriptions, videos.

As a standard, wood or metal is taken for independent work. And in the vast majority of cases, preference is given to wood. This is understandable, wooden doors have been made with their own hands since a man built his first house. Wood is a soft and malleable material that, with proper processing, can become durable and last for many years.

The first prototypes of wooden doors, as historical excavations have shown, date back to the times of Alexandria. From that time to the present day, the principle of their manufacture has not changed much, despite the many new technologies and tools.

Advantages and disadvantages

Despite the fact that today a lot of newfangled materials have been developed for the manufacture of furniture, window blocks and, of course, doors, natural wood remains a constant priority. This is understandable, wood is the most environmentally friendly material. Wherever the plant grows, it will destroy harmful carcinogens, and will not be saturated with them.

Advantages

In addition to environmental friendliness, there are a number of other advantages, for example:

Ease of processing;
Low density combined with high strength;
Durability;
Low thermal conductivity;
soundproofing;
Resistance to the negative effects of acid and alkaline solutions;
Elasticity, almost all breeds are easy to bend, which allows you to make original designs from solid wood;
Natural beauty.

Of course, many artificial composite materials are not inferior to wood in these parameters, but in some ways they can be superior. But the natural qualities of natural wood, which give coolness in the heat and warm in the cold, cannot be replaced by either laminate or plastic. And doors made of high quality wood according to your drawings and with your own hands will undoubtedly be the best element in the house.

But, unfortunately, like any natural material, wood has its drawbacks, which must be taken into account when making a wooden door with your own hands.

Flaws

Absorption. This is the property of wood to absorb water molecules from the air, which leads over time to deformation or a change in the original dimensions of the product.

Instability to biodefeat;
fire hazard;
Decay.

But, all these negative qualities are solved through proper processing, pre-drying and coating with protective compounds.

Features of different types of wood

Of great importance for creating a high-quality wooden door with your own hands is the right choice of source material. It is no secret that different tree species differ significantly in physical and mechanical properties.

The source material, which is widely represented today in the construction markets, is divided into two main groups, these are coniferous and deciduous trees.

hardwood

This group includes the most valuable wood, which surpasses the rest in hardness, has a fairly high density, original texture and pleasant natural color.
Basically, these are solid expensive varieties, such as:

The Red tree;
Nut.

Oak, ash, cherry are more affordable species with no less high qualities.

Oak is a highly durable and very hard wood that is resistant to biodegradation. And due to the high content of tannins, oak blanks are perfectly pickled. The material is easy to process even with hand tools and is excellent for making curved parts.

Ash can compete with oak in terms of hardness and strength, it is significantly superior in texture beauty, but is many times inferior in terms of biopreservation. If the ash tree is not treated with an antiseptic, then after the first wet season it will begin to rot.

conifers

Softwood boards have always been a priority in the construction market and are still in high demand. This is due to the affordability and a large number of positive characteristics. In the vast majority, blanks are made from pine, less often from spruce.

Spruce has a more capricious wood. It is highly degradable and biodegradable. But, on the other hand, it almost does not accumulate moisture and does not change its shape. In addition, spruce has significantly higher non-thermal conductivity.

Analyzing all the parameters, we can say that pine is the best option for making wooden entrance doors with your own hands. If it is supposed to make interior doors, then it is better to give preference to hardwood.

You can not talk about the tree "good" or "bad". With the right selection of material, taking into account the goals and operation, any array will be ideal. It is important to clearly know what kind of wooden door you are going to make with your own hands, and well-chosen wood will be a great help to you.

Door types

The classification of doors has a rather complex structure. According to the main purpose, external and internal forms are distinguished, that is, entrance or interior doors.

single floor;
One and a half, from two canvases of different widths;
Double field;

According to the manufacturing technology, doors can be:

Paneled;
Shield;
Doweled

The simplest and most affordable option for manufacturing is how to quickly and easily make a wooden door with your own hands. The technology consists in connecting the selected bars with dowels, which can be arranged depending on the master’s imagination: across, with the letter “Z”, herringbone or other pattern. Dowels can be made of the same wood, metal or special plastic.

Doors with simple straight bars are installed in utility rooms or as outdoor doors in country houses. Using curly dowels, you can make wooden doors in the country style using this method, which can favorably emphasize the overall theme of the kitchen or living room.

This is a more complex scheme for making a wooden door with your own hands, requiring a separate frame and inserts - panels. Planks for inserts can be of a wide variety of shapes and materials. They are installed on the principle of "thorn - groove".

Most often, such doors are made for interior spaces, but if desired and with little effort, you can make a solid front door. A variety of materials that can be selected for inserts allows you to make wooden doors with your own hands of the most bizarre design, completely in harmony with the design of living rooms.

Shield models

The most budgetary option for making wooden doors with your own hands can be called a panel model. The principle of the device is based on sheathing a chipboard sheet with wooden planks, which are a structural reinforcement. Veneer is usually used for finishing. These products are only suitable for indoor use.

Step-by-step instructions for making a paneled front door

The scheme according to which wooden doors are made with their own hands, regardless of the type, is always the same. Small differences relate to the selection and installation of fittings, reinforcing elements and finishing touches.

Before you start making a wooden door with your own hands, you need to make sure that the boards you bought meet the accepted standard, do not require additional drying and do not have visible defects. Next, prepare the necessary tools. If something is missing in your home kit, you need to buy it in addition or rent it in advance.

Tools and materials

Milling cutter manual;
Circular saw, grinding wheels mounted on a drill or grinder;
Electric drill;
Screwdriver;
A set of chisels;
Screwdriver Set;
A hammer;
Measurement tools;
Construction adhesive;
Confirmants (shkans);
Paint and varnish mixes for protection and processing of surfaces;
Planed dried board 4x10 or 4x15, 6 pieces, but it is better to take with a margin, in case of errors in work;
LDSP (laminated chipboard) of the corresponding color.

Step 1

Preparation of frame parts. Measured and cut boards for the frame must be carefully sanded from the wide sides. The ends can not be touched, they will be processed during the milling process.

Step 2

Select the necessary cutters, and perform such operations as:

Rounding corners;
A groove at the end of one of the boards, 2 cm deep and 1.6 cm wide, for the entire length;
Pay special attention to ensure that the groove is strictly in the middle.

Step 3

Corner trimming of the ends of parts. The ends of all harvested boards must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The easiest way to do this is with a circular saw. Track the correspondence of the length of the vertical and horizontal parts.

Step 4

Cut to size chipboard. This must be done according to the following scheme: the width of the door minus the width of the board x2 + the depth of the groove x2. If you are not confident in your abilities, you can buy ready-made cut material.

Step 5

Before installing confirmants, a test assembly must be performed. To do this, you need to fill the finished parts on chipboard and check whether the structure lies flat, if there are any defects or gaps. Then make holes in the top and bottom of the door, and install the confirmers.

Step 6

Finishing touch - decoration

The desire of every craftsman is to make wooden doors with his own hands better than factory products. Therefore, the decoration stage must be given the closest attention.

You can complete the finish with veneering or lamination, enhance the beauty of the natural pattern with a colorless or tinted stain, or simply paint it in the right color.

A door is a device that allows people to pass through walls. The design includes two main elements. The first is a canvas that, when closed, imitates an “insurmountable” wall, the second is a mechanism that opens a doorway. By connecting the canvas with the hanging mechanism, adjusting their coordinated work, everyone can say with confidence that he made the door.

Manufacturing technology of wooden doors

Making a wooden door is very easy. It all depends on the materials that are available. If this is a door for a hut, then with the help of a rope, a knife and sticks of the same thickness, in a matter of minutes you can tie them into an even, flat canvas, and use the same twine instead of loops. But if the task is to make a door to a house or apartment, then you will need special woodworking tools - a saw, a planer, a grinder.

You can make doors of any complexity with your own hands, the main thing is to have a desire and carpentry skills

More recently - about 100 years ago, metal fasteners were very expensive. Therefore, craftsmen made doors without the use of nails and screws. The joints were wooden, consisted of spikes, grooves and dowels (wooden nails). Fine-tuning parts by hand required skill and craftsmanship. A good craftsman made the door for several days. With the advent of mechanization and automation of production, the production of doors was put on the conveyor, and the "human factor" dropped to the adjustment and adjustment of machine tools with numerical control.

Video: door production in a factory

In today's world, almost every home has a set of tools and fixtures that allows you to make a simple door for your own use. Materials are available and often the task is only to properly assemble and fit.

The most common are two types of doors, fundamentally different in design:

Frame (shield) design. The frame of the future door is made from the array, consisting of two racks and crossbars. The internal space is sewn up with panel material such as plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. The resulting cavity is filled with "honeycombs" or soundproofing material. As a rule, this canvas is rectangular in shape. There are no restrictions on dimensions, but the established shape of the doorway is 2 meters high and 0.5–0.8 m wide. In rare cases, larger doors are made. For example, 2.2 m high and 90 cm wide. But at the same time, more powerful hinges must be used, since the weight of the sash increases.
The panel door, assembled from wooden slats, fits well into the country style
Paneled construction. In this case, the door is completely made of natural wood. This increases its weight and strength. It is clear that a solid piece of wood measuring 2x0.6 m will be very expensive. Therefore, the canvas is made from component parts, connecting them into a single plane. By definition, a panel is a thin board or plywood inserted inside a wooden frame. However, it can be interchangeable.
Solid wood paneled door can be decorated with artistic carvings

With the current technologies for the production of doors, a clear division of the leaf structure into frame and paneled ones has been somewhat erased. The sashes are combined, combining elements of both panels and a shield.

Video: are doors divided into panel and panel doors today (expert opinion)

The industrial production of wooden doors includes the following steps:

Preparation of wood material.
Additional processing and preparation of the array (drying, gluing and impregnation).
Fabrication of canvas and frame parts.
Construction assembly.
Finishing works (painting, varnishing, laminating, etc.).

With self-manufacturing of doors, all stages are reproduced at home.

Equipment and tools

Different types of doors require different tools to make. A simple panel board is constructed using a hacksaw (with a small furniture tooth), a hammer or a screwdriver, if fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. A more "advanced" door is assembled using electrical devices:

Manual electric milling cutter. With its help, the details of the panel are milled and given a profile look. Groove joints involve sampling wood, which is also done using a milling machine.
The router kit includes a set of cutters with different lengths and cutting edge configurations.
Screwdriver or drill. Needed for sash assembly. It should be noted that when using a drill, a tool with adjustable speed is required. Too fast starting rotation will not allow you to control the fastener immersion process.
Screwdriver with adjustable speed and power of rotation will allow you to make the correct installation of fasteners
A circular saw. Manual or stationary. With her help, wooden boards are cut into pieces. Accuracy in cuts is important, so the saw needs to be well adjusted. An unbalanced blade will cut unevenly, with chips.
Built-in circular ruler allows you to cut boards to a given size
Bulgarian with a set of grinding nozzles. The power and high speed of an angle grinder in this situation are only welcome.
Polishing a wooden plane is carried out with special nozzles
Measuring tools - tape measure or carpenter's meter, marker, straight rail-ruler, straight square.
A set of carpentry hand tools: hammer, mallet, chisels, clamps, etc.
A variety of hand tools greatly speed up the door assembly process

It is advisable to assemble on a workbench or desktop - it is much more convenient and faster.

As for the material for the doors, the design and shape of the leaf is of great importance here. Inserts can be made of MDF, chipboard, OSB or just plywood. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the doors. For entrances, materials with high strength are used, for interiors - lighter, decorative types of wood.

The door frame is made from solid wooden blocks. You will need two bars a little more than 2 m long for racks and two meter bars of the same section for the crossbars. On one side, a quarter equal to the thickness of the door leaf is selected. However, a prefabricated frame structure is also possible, in which the supporting surface is created by building up thin rails.

The blank for the door frame is made taking into account the thickness of the door leaf

The most affordable material is pine and spruce boards. Spruce lumber is more durable, but pine has a nicer texture and fewer knots. Soft-leaved wood species - birch, linden, poplar - are practically not used for the manufacture of doors. The oak massif is very popular. Its structure is strong and durable. However, oak harvesting is an expensive process, which naturally affects the final price.

For simple doors with a laminated chipboard insert, you will need:

edged boards 40–60 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide, with a total length of 6 m;
High quality boards are calibrated in all four planes
a sheet of laminated chipboard, with a total area of not more than 2 m 2;
Cutting chipboard according to the given dimensions can be ordered from the supplier upon purchase
PVA glue;
Glue is used to reinforce the fasteners of the wooden elements of the door
varnish or paint;
confirmations from 25 to 35 mm long.
Color-matched plastic plugs make connections almost invisible

Confirmants are special screws with a smoothed end and an “invisible” cap. They are used in the assembly of furniture and other joinery. A distinctive feature is the wide thread pitch, which allows you to securely fasten both fibrous wood and pressed chipboard sheets. Confirmation slots come in different configurations - from ordinary cross to hexagonal and star-shaped. Accordingly, a suitable nozzle is selected for a screwdriver.

To install the confirmation, a special drill with an extension in the upper part is used.

Calculations and drawings

A well-designed drawing will allow you to avoid mistakes and waste of materials in the manufacture of doors. A sketch and detailing is made on a sheet of paper, indicating the exact dimensions of each component of the canvas.

The drawing shows all the design features of the doors

In accordance with building GOSTs, the following parameters are adopted when installing doors:

The distance from the corner to the loops from the bottom and top is the same and is 15–25 cm.
During installation, technological clearances must be observed
The door handle is installed at a height of 80–90 cm from the floor. The position of the locking device on the sash is determined by the lock device. The striker plate is located on the frame and recessed into the wood in such a way that its plane coincides with the plane of the door frame.
The handle and lock are installed on the door last.
The viewing window is placed at eye level - 150–160 cm from the lower edge of the door leaf.
If a ventilation grill is provided in the door leaf, it is fixed in the middle of the door leaf, at a distance of 15–20 cm from the floor.
The ventilation grille can be equipped with a built-in electric fan

You should also pay attention to the seal, which is mounted around the perimeter of the frame. The forms of rubber seals are different and depending on this, the geometry of the profile of the door frame is formed. Some types of seals require an additional recess for installation.

The protective film must be removed before installing the self-adhesive door seal.

And finally, the door sill. Most often, there is no threshold in interior doors. This saves materials and reduces assembly time. But entrance doors without a threshold are too vulnerable and allow cold air to pass through. Therefore, it is desirable to strengthen this part of the door frame with a metal trim.

Metal platband increases the strength of the door sill

Video: making a simple paneled door

Step by step instructions

Consider the technology of self-manufacturing a wooden door:

Preparatory stage. The prepared boards with the help of a grinding nozzle on the grinder are carefully processed to the state of a polished surface. To do this, it is necessary to use three types of emery: coarse-grained (No. 40), then medium-grained (No. 80) and fine-grained (No. 120). If the boards are planed, then they start immediately with a medium-grained sheet. The final goal of polishing is an absolutely smooth surface with well-developed texture lines of wood. It should be borne in mind that different breeds have different hardness. Processing pine, birch and linden will not take much time and effort. You will have to work hard on oak or ash.
Vibratory grinders are used to polish wood
Next, you need to mill the parts in accordance with the intended design of the door. With the help of a milling cutter and a set of shaped cutters, the ends are given the desired configuration. Each insert fits its groove individually. In addition, you need to make a deep groove along the inner perimeter of the frame. A sheet of chipboard is subsequently inserted into it. The size of the groove is selected in accordance with the thickness of the chipboard - a tolerance of 1 mm is made for grinding. The standard thickness of particle board used for doors is 16 mm. So, the width of the groove will be 17 mm. The depth is selected from 15 to 20 mm, this is enough to securely fix the insert into the canvas frame. At the same time, it must be remembered that in the interests of long-term operation, the depth of the groove is made 1.5–2 mm larger than the size of the spike. Another option is also possible, when chipboard is attached to the canvas frame with glazing beads. Then, instead of a groove on the side posts, it is enough to choose a quarter.
Quarter sampling is preferably carried out on a firmly fixed canvas
Cutting the ends of the boards at an angle of 45 °. If it is possible to use an end circular, the process is greatly accelerated. But if it is not there, the marking is carried out with a simple protractor, and the cut will be performed by an ordinary circular or hand saw. It is important to accurately maintain the size that needs to be measured along the long side of the door frame.
The miter saw allows you to make a high-quality cut at any angle
Open the panels, in our case, the chipboard sheet. The height and width dimensions are calculated based on the depth of the groove. The width of the two prepared boards (upper and lower) is subtracted from the total height of the doors and the depth of the groove is added. For example, with a door height of 2 m, a width of the upper and lower crossbars of 15 cm and a groove depth of 20 mm, we have: 2000-(150x2) + (20x2) = 174 cm. The same calculations are carried out for width.
Primary installation. It is carried out for the final adjustment of all parts into a single design. Everything is assembled on a workbench (or on the floor), cracks and gaps, the general geometry of the canvas are checked. If “inconsistencies” are found, the canvas is disassembled and adjusted. If there are no deviations, the door can be fastened with confirmations. To do this, holes are first drilled for the diameter of the cap, then the screw is screwed in with the head immersed “flush”.
Door leaf decoration. Of the types available at home, painting and varnishing are the most acceptable. Gluing a decorative film or veneer on rounded surfaces will not work well. A spray gun can be a good help when applying a paint layer. With it, you can achieve a uniform coating on the surface of the door. However, this also requires some experience and skills. Many experts believe that decorating is the most responsible and difficult stage in the manufacture of doors.
Lacquering of doors is carried out in a well-ventilated and lit room.
Hardware installation. It is produced last, when the product is already mounted in the doorway. Technological holes are prepared in advance for inserting the lock and handle. Recesses for canopies are cut with a chisel based on the size of the loops. The only exception is the rubber seal. If its configuration involves deepening into an array, the groove is cut out at the preparation stage.
The shape of the holes is determined by the configuration of the door hardware

Video: making a wooden entrance door with your own hands

Do-it-yourself door to the barn

For simple household needs, it is not necessary to assemble a panel door with complex structural elements. In the back room or barn, a panel-type door, consisting of a prefabricated canvas and a wooden door frame, will fit perfectly. Very convenient in this regard are doors made of lining or grooved boards. These lumber is sold with already planed grooves and a smooth surface.

The manufacturing process is very simple:

Video: barn doors

How to make wooden entrance doors with your own hands? Currently, the industry produces a large number of entrance doors from various materials and with various finishes. But the cost of such products is quite high.

If you want to install a wooden entrance door and save the family budget at the same time, you can make a solid wooden entrance door. To do this, you need to purchase the necessary materials and strictly follow the technology for performing work.

How to install a wooden front door

Materials and tools:

boards;
wooden wedges;
spacers;
wood glue;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
mounting foam;
drill;
nails;
loops;
roulette;
building level.

Making a door frame

First you need to measure the opening. After that, proceed to the installation of the door frame. To do this, on a flat surface, you can on the floor, fold the elements of the box. Check the correctness of right angles using the building level. Then you need to glue the elements of the box at the corners. The connection is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Install the box in the doorway. Then you need to mount the frame by installing wedges in the middle and at the corners. Using the building level, check the correct installation of the box. Then put spacers opposite the wedges. With the help of mounting foam fill the gap between the door frame and the wall.

After the foam has dried, after about 12 hours, remove the excess parts of the foam. Then the wedges and spacers are removed.

Then platbands are installed. To do this, you need to cut out the part of the required length, drill the required number of holes for nails. Mount the platband to the opening with nails. The product will be mounted on hinges.

Do-it-yourself entrance wooden door

Materials and tools:

boards;
solid wood;
thermal insulation;
wood glue;
roulette;
building level;
plane;
chisel;
drill;
milling cutter;
self-tapping screws;
loops;
a hammer;
nails;
sandpaper.

The entrance model must be durable, reliably protect the house, and not let in the cold. The design must be made with insulation. One side of the product must be sheathed with heat-insulating material. Therefore, there will be no panels on this side. It is made even, without panels, and pasted over with fiberboard.

It is necessary to purchase boards having a thickness of 50 mm. The width of the board should be 11 cm. This design is made for a door frame measuring 200x90 cm. After measuring the box, its dimensions are specified and the dimensions of the future door are determined. To do this, you need to reduce the size of the box on each side by 0.5 cm.

Then measurements are taken. The size of the product is reduced on each side. In this case, it will turn out about 192x82 cm.

The product must be made with 5 panels. They are made from solid wood.

To complete the construction, you will need 2 longitudinal boards, which will be located in the length of the product and have dimensions of 192 cm. Then 4 transverse boards 72 cm long are made.

During installation, the distances between the crossbars are left such that all panels are of the same size. The connection is made according to the tenon-groove principle, the size of which will be 5x6 cm.

Connect all the details of the structure to each other. Check the horizontal and vertical elements using the building level. After that, the correct installation of the product is checked.

There should be no gaps between the tenon-groove joints. In this case, the spike should not enter the groove quite close. If during the check it turned out that the structure was assembled correctly, all joints are treated with wood glue.

Since the product will be under the influence of a sharp temperature drop and various precipitation, it is necessary to make dowels to increase its strength.

For the manufacture of dowels in the longitudinal boards, holes with a depth of 10 mm are drilled with a drill. They must pass through the spikes of the crossbars. For the design, 8 dowels are installed.

Then, using a planer, the deformations between the joints are eliminated. After that, you need to prepare a milling cutter with a special nozzle. This nozzle is designed to develop grooves. You can use a window cutter.

Using a milling cutter, a groove is made. It should be located on one side of the product and be half the thickness of the door leaf for the panels. Then, using a chisel, round the corners of the joints.

After that, panels are made. They are made from solid wood. To do this, they are cut out taking into account the required dimensions. It is necessary that they are securely fixed in the grooves.

On a milling machine, a panel is made on one side of the board. It is necessary to adjust the position of the surface of the milling machine.

Then you need to sand the panel from the front side. Then it is mounted in the door frame.

Panels must be attached flush with the door frame. This is necessary so that the fiberboard sheets are installed correctly.

Panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle so that it is not noticeable from the back of the canvas. After that, fiberboard is installed and nailed with a hammer.

To finish the outside of the door, an edge cutter is made. After making it on a milling machine, it is necessary to grind it with sandpaper. After that, screw the handles and cut the lock. Then the product is installed in the door frame on the hinges. This completes the manufacture and installation of a wooden front door.

The entrance door, made by hand using this technology, will be strong, reliable and durable.

03.09.2016 37876

After erecting the walls of an apartment or private house, the builders move on to the stage of finishing the premises. Already at this stage of construction, it becomes necessary to install an entrance door to protect the interior from the negative effects of external factors. We also need internal interroom first of all for bathrooms.

What kind of doors can you make yourself

Most homeowners prefer to contact specialized organizations, ordering door structures there or purchasing them in hardware stores. However, there are situations when do it yourself.

Entrance or internal country house and bath.
Temporary door at the entrance to a private house.
All in a situation where the budget does not allow you to turn to professionals.
This is an option for people who know how to handle tools and wood.

The best material for making your own door is wood. Such structures can be frame or solid wood.

Advantages and disadvantages

Durability, environmental friendliness, reliability, good processing ability of the material - these are the positive qualities of these devices.

The negative sides include - high hygroscopicity, as a result of which swelling of the material and warpage of the frame are possible, as well as the need for constant care to maintain a good presentation.

What kind of wood is used as raw material

Having decided on the independent production of a building element, the master selects the material suitable for a particular design.

pine is one of the cheapest materials that can be processed well, but can dry out over time;
alder is also an affordable, light and soft wood, but its ability to dry out must be taken into account;
birch - it combines density and sufficient hardness with viscosity and a beautiful texture, but this material can also deteriorate over time;
oak boards - characterized by high strength and durability, requires skills in woodworking;
beech - it also belongs to hardwoods, and due to its ability to absorb moisture, it requires additional processing;
larch, walnut and maple - the ideal material for a beautiful door, durable and resistant to all influences;
in the premises of expensive apartments or cottages, mahogany in the form of veneer is used for interior doors.

Door making tool

If you are going to make a door yourself, you need to think about what tool to prepare for this work. There are several options for do-it-yourself products, and each needs its own set of devices. However, there are always necessary sets:

roulette;
chisel;
hacksaw;
a square and a long rigid ruler;
drill;
screwdriver and a set of screwdrivers;
grinding devices;
strong sharp knife for woodworking.

manual circular;
milling machine with manual control;
grinder with grinding wheels for wood.

Door in a budget "shield" design

You can make it yourself from boards with a thickness of 50 mm, without using the special skills of a cabinetmaker. Such a door can be attributed to the budget option, among experts it is called - "with dowels". This may be a temporary structure if it is planned to install a more expensive option at this place in the future. At the same time, it is good for a country house or a bathhouse in a summer cottage. Its advantage is durability and high strength. In this case, pine doors are the cheapest option.

The size of the door is determined by the opening made during construction. A box is installed in it and after that the necessary parameters of the future door structure are measured.

In width and along the upper edge, it should be 10-15 mm smaller than the size of the box, and along the lower edge, it should be 15-20 mm from the threshold.

On a sheet of fiberboard, laid on a flat surface, the outline of the intended door is applied. Particular attention should be paid to maintaining 90 degrees at all corners of the contour.

For such a design, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 mm thick, pre-treated with a planer. A quarter is selected on both sides of them so that during assembly there are no gaps between the boards.

The width of the boards is calculated in such a way that a multiple number of elements of the same size fit into the selected contour. In this case, the design will look neat.

Having prepared the boards of the required size, it is required to lay them in the contour drawn on the fiberboard sheet, securing the resulting shield with temporary brackets. Then, with the help of an electric saw, cuts are made at the top and bottom of the shield under the dowels prepared in advance. To do this, the saw is set at an angle of 60 degrees. The unnecessary part of the wood is knocked out with a chisel.

The dowels are made from bars and in the standard version have the following dimensions:

on the bottom of the bar on one side 50 mm, on the other 45 mm;
on the upper part - on one side 35 mm, on the other 30 mm.

Thus, a kind of trapezoidal wedge is obtained in profile.

These dowels are inserted into the prepared grooves. The final fastening is done with wooden spikes or glue.

A brace is installed from the right edge of the top key to the left edge of the bottom key. Previously, oblique cuts are made on it for tight installation to the keys. The slope is fastened with spikes or wood screws.

Budget door made of wood and fiberboard

You can make a simple wooden door from a wood frame, filler and fiberboard. For this you will need the following materials.

50mm thick board to make the frame.
Fiberboard sheet - shields for the outer surface are cut out of it.
The filler of the inner surface - this can be stone wool insulation, pressed corrugated cardboard or other suitable material.

To begin with, a sheet of fiberboard is laid out on a flat surface. After that, the contours of the door are applied to it, clearly maintaining 90-degree angles.

On this contour, a frame is assembled from a fifty-millimeter board. It is assembled in the "thorn - groove" variant, when a through groove is cut in one board, and a spike in the other, suitable in size to the prepared groove. Another option is to select a quarter at the ends of the boards, followed by laying one inside the other.

When assembling the "thorn - groove" fastening is carried out with the help of glue and wooden round spikes. When assembling "in the overlay" - it is better to fix the boards with wood screws.

A wooden plank is inserted in the middle of the door rectangle to ensure the rigidity of the frame. So that the frame does not change the geometry during the further assembly of the door partition, it is necessary to fix it with temporary brackets.

Two sheets are cut out of fiberboard according to the size of the door contour. One sheet is attached with screws to the prepared frame.

The resulting internal voids are filled with the selected filler. After that, the second sheet is attached to the frame on the other side.

If necessary, fittings are installed in the prepared door - handles and latches.

Such a homemade wooden door is installed at the entrance to the bath and toilet, or as another interior partition.

Paneled door structure

Production is possible in paneled execution. This is a more complicated way. The person who undertakes such work must have certain skills in woodworking.

Paneled doors made of solid pine are the best option for home-made production. Pine is a cheaper material, at the same time, a board made from it is easy to process and is durable.

Components of a paneled canvas: frame or strapping, mullions, panels.

made of wood with your own hands begins with the manufacture of the strapping, which is the frame of the entire structure. Strapping bars come in different thicknesses. If their thickness is about 44 mm, then they are connected using the tongue and groove method into one spike. With a thickness of the frame bars up to 54 mm - pairing in two spikes, and with thicker bars - in three. The fastening of the bars is done on glue using round wooden spikes.
Centerpieces are bars of the same thickness as the strapping. Their number depends on the design of the canvas and can be from one to three. In some cases, in addition to the transverse mullions, a longitudinal mullion is installed. These elements strengthen the door system and in addition, panels are fixed in them. The mullions are connected to the strapping also in the "thorn - groove" variant.
Panels are made of solid wood, plywood, and special reinforced glass. You can fasten the panels in the strapping and mullions in different ways - in a quarter without layouts, using self-tapping screws; in a deeper quarter with layouts that hold the panel in the web structure, the layouts are fixed with self-tapping screws; into a blind groove.

This is done due to the fact that the wooden door leaf can absorb moisture or dry out, depending on the season.

If the master has artistic skills, then panels can be made with patterns.

After the final assembly of the paneled door leaf, it must be allowed to “lie down” for several days so that possible mistakes can be identified during assembly. Then the canvas is painted or decorated in another accessible way.

Attention! When painting, you need to pay attention to one feature. After applying the first coat of paint or varnish, fluff appears on the wooden surface, forming a surface roughness. When the paint dries, a fine-grained sandpaper must be passed over the wooden surface. The door becomes smooth and you can safely apply the second layer.

So, it is quite possible to make a wooden door with your own hands. The main thing is to correctly assess the abilities and capabilities, correctly choose the raw materials, and in the manufacture of the door structure, exercise accuracy and safety precautions. All the same, wood is a soft material, and the tool for processing it is especially sharp.

Despite the fact that today doors are made from a variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also mounted on all functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.

To figure out how to make a door out of boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the elite ones, are made of boards, but the material can have different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.

In addition, door leafs are divided into types according to their design, and in order to determine which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.

Types of doors by design

Wooden doors can have several types of structures - these are paneled and massive, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.

massive doors

Massive doors are made of thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, interconnected in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined lintels, which will make the structure more rigid.

For massive doors, wood of different species and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is being made, then for it you need to choose moderately dried, dense high-quality wood of expensive species, such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and a dense structure. With appropriate processing, such a door will last a long time without deformation and damage by insects dangerous for wood.

A massive door can have a different design - both simple, which is suitable for installation, say, in the steam room of a bath, and complex, having a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.

For bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to consider when making a door structure for wet rooms is its careful processing and water-repellent agents.

Massive doors may have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - this is the canvas, which should always be made of natural wood.

Paneled door

Paneled wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but more often its glued version is used, which is made from separate wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together, creating thick boards or bars.

Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the web - vertical and transverse elements, as well as mullions, are made from it. Separate elements were fastened earlier with the help of spikes, today dowels are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. Original frames are formed from the timber, in which panel panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF covered with natural veneer, or plastic imitating the textured pattern of wood. The panel usually has a thickness of ⅓ of the thickness of the glued beam. The panels are fixed in the frames with the help of veneered or natural glazing bead, which gives the appearance of the paneled door aesthetics, smoothing the sharp edges of the frame.

Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf has a small thickness, so they are most often installed in openings between rooms.

The paneled construction is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than a solid canvas. Pricing is based on what kind of wood the boards and beams are made of, and what kind of veneer the material for the paneled door is covered with.

It should be noted that paneled canvases are often completely made of natural wood, only made according to a similar design scheme.

Panel doors

Panel doors can be called a budget option, as their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made of cheaper material - it is low quality wood and fiberboard, lined with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Panel doors are solid, hollow and small-hollow. They differ in that in some the internal space is completely filled with unedged timber fastened together, the second consists only of the strapping and outer skin, and the third is partially filled.

A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side bars, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical crossbars are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame.

Small-hollow structures of door panels have different fullness of the internal space, and a variety of materials can be used for filling - it can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or foam.

Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of unedged or edged timber, tightly fastened together.

Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are shown in the figures:

Schemes of panel doors - 1

BUT- solid construction;

B– small-void filling;

Schemes of panel doors - 2

AT– filling voids with veneer;

G and D- small-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

Schemes of panel doors - 3

E– filling with shavings;

AND– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;

W- a panel partially filled with solid bars with a place provided for installing glass or plywood sheet.

Schemes of panel doors - 4

And- filling part of the canvas with veneer;

To and L- filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;

M– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.

The frame of a panel door is lined with various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fibreboard, plywood or veneer.

When facing panels with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled overlays.

To obtain a high-quality panel door, the lining of the structure is carried out with linden or alder plywood, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. The material made of alder and linden does not deform, which creates a reliable basis for

On top of the glued layer, finishing plywood made of precious wood is fixed. The direction of the fibers of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the glued material.

Often, instead of plywood, natural veneer from expensive wood species is fixed on the glued layer. Its layers, and there may be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.

Sometimes a solid shield of glued timber is immediately shaped with veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a total facing of 2 ÷ 4 mm.

The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then even, well-finished bars are used for them, which in color and texture will match the finish of the remaining planes.

The end bars are fastened to the shield with dowels and glue.

This type of door, depending on the finish, can be a bathroom or utility rooms, as well as quality. However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, so they are not suitable for the entrance role. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then move on to preparatory work and manufacturing.

Door making tools

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable large workbench table, on which all elements will be assembled into a single canvas.

From the tools you need to prepare:

Manual milling cutter - this device will help to make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, equalize the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If the goal is to make a door that looks professional, then this tool is indispensable.

Planer for leveling the end sides of the door.
Clamps for tightening the glued web.
Hacksaw.
Bow and hand saw.
Chisels of various sizes.
Rubber and regular hammer.
Building level.
Ruler, tape measure, folding rule and pencil.
Sandpaper and grinder.
Screwdriver.

Necessary materials

For the manufacture of doors, the following materials will be required:

Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
Joiner's glue.
Self-tapping screws of different lengths.

In addition, for each type of door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials, which will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door panels.

Choice of lumber

It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the canvas, otherwise the finished door may be deformed, and it will not be possible to correct this defect.

The main criteria for choosing wood are as follows:

The type of wood is chosen at will and financial possibilities.
For doors, the so-called commercial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if they do exist, then they are small in size and light in color.
In order for the tree to "behave" well during processing and the period of operation of the doors, upon purchase, the material must have a residual moisture content of 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way does not deform or dry out, as the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
When buying boards, they must be checked for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and try to connect them with each other using groove-thorn locks. The boards must not be bent or bent.
The thickness of the boards for the door can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
Before starting work, it is recommended to walk on all surfaces of the boards with a grinder with fine-grained sandpaper. If this device is not available, then you can make a grinding device yourself from an ordinary wooden block by attaching sandpaper to it.

Production of a massive door

Whatever model of a massive board door is chosen, a plank shield will serve as the basis for it, which must be properly assembled. Otherwise, the wood can “lead”, and it will be impossible to operate such a structure.

A solid board door is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product in different situations will be different.

For a bath, the simplest design is usually used, in which a shield assembled from boards is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.

In this drawing, you can see different options for fastening strapping:

General view of the door;

I - a door with a Z-shaped strapping;

II - X-shaped harness;

III - double Z-shaped harness;

IV - double X-shaped harness;

V - triple strapping.

For the entrance to the house or for installation in residential premises, the doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the markup of the selected relief pattern is applied to the canvas, and then the relief is cut out using a milling cutter.

Illustration
	For the manufacture of the shield, tongue-and-groove boards are taken, having a tongue-and-groove fastening, or not tongue-and-groove. The thickness of the boards should be at least 25 mm, but if a door is made to enter an apartment or house, then a board is taken even with a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for outbuildings or baths are most often made from non-grooved boards using one of the straps shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a grooved high-quality thick board is taken.
	Further, the prepared boards are marked and sawn into the desired segments.
	The next step from the board is going to the shield. In this case, it is necessary to lay them in such a way that the pattern of annual rings is directed in one direction. If tongue-and-groove boards are taken for manufacturing, then the spike is carefully cut off from the extreme element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling the shield, the tongue-and-groove boards are assembled using both the tongue-and-groove joint and wood glue. Not grooved - just glued together.
	The work should be carried out on a large desktop - a workbench, where it is possible to place the door leaf completely and lay it perfectly evenly.
	The assembled and glued shield of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry.
	The finished dried shield is processed by a milling cutter to a perfectly smooth state. In this case, the joints between the boards become almost invisible.
	It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped into clamps. The result is a fairly heavyweight powerful shield, having a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often a door is made in this way, on which some relief pattern will later be milled or cut out.
	Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of harnesses. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be observed for easy entry of the cross member into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf.
	Then, markings are made on the door leaf where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the boards of the shield. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ of the thickness of the board.
	According to the marks made on the shield, transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut with a milling cutter. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their “nests” quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can also cut the groove manually - first, cuts are made at the right angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel.
	When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side, and then gradually pushed inward using a rubber mallet or mallet.
	When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this.
	If you plan to decorate the finished shield with some kind of relief pattern, then its outline should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that, cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed on the hand mill, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste.
	The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be influenced by external factors, then in addition to the antiseptic, water-repellent compounds should also be used. When making a door for entering an apartment, it is recommended to cover the wood with flame retardants.
	If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, make the door more “noble” or artificially “age” it, then staining technology can be used for this. Wood stain is covered with wood in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be covered with several layers of varnish.
	On the finished canvas and door frame, markings are made for installing the selected model of hinged hinges. Then the hinges are mounted on the marked places.
	The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the canvas and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. The last step is to hang the door into the doorway and fine-tune it if necessary.

Panel door manufacturing

It is not difficult to make a shield door yourself. The main thing is to have all the materials at hand, a solid tool, withstand all sizes, keep the edges even and the corners straight. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for one made of solid board, it is necessary to make a panel, only it can consist of low quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a continuous surface, but with gaps.

Based on the description of the design, it can be made in three ways:

The first one is that first a frame frame (strapping) of the required size is assembled, and then its internal space is completely or partially filled, that is, a solid or finely filled shield is created inside the frame.
The shield can also be made separately, and then it must be fixed into the frame, and then sheathed with a finishing material.
The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.

Each of the methods has its pros and cons, and which one to choose - the master chooses on his own. Below, for example, the first version of the manufacture of the door will be considered.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	So, first, a frame (strapping) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a beam with a section of approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width).
	Having prepared the timber, you must select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest can be called the one that is called "half-tree". The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very accurately, and then easily selected using a conventional hand saw and chisel. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are smeared with glue and connected at the corners, and they must be controlled using a building corner, since the bars must be perfectly perpendicular. During the connection of the beam, the frame must lie on a hard, even surface, and after joining the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving.
	After the glue has dried on the joints, they must be fastened with dowels, for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled. Then, dowels treated with glue are carefully driven into them.
	One side of the frame should be lined with one of the selected materials immediately after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, fiberboard is chosen for reasons of economy. A sheet of material cut to the desired size is laid on a flat table, then a frame is laid on it and its location is marked on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and carpentry glue is thickly applied to the marked strips. Then the frame returns to its place and is firmly pressed against the facing material. In this position under pressure, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two crossbars are mounted between its side bars.
	Further, the internal space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - it can be timber, MDF pieces or other woodworking waste mentioned above, or low quality wood. So, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued together, and also glued to the bottom sheet of the facing material and the frame bars. Before covering the entire structure with a cladding on top, it is necessary to allow the glue to dry well.
	This diagram shows a frame-panel construction, and inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and small-hollow versions. These elements are designed for rigid insertion of a lock or door handle.
	While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for facing the outside. To do this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two sheets of finishing material are cut out according to these dimensions. If you plan to stick two sheets, then ordinary fiberboard is first glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press that you can build yourself, for example, by covering the canvas with plastic wrap, then laying gypsum boards on top of it.
	If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for sheathing, you can use natural wood slats, but they will have to be screwed to the frame by drilling “under the sweat” holes to drown the self-tapping screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be treated with sandpaper.
	Then, all the corner parts and ends of the door leaf need to be processed with a milling cutter - only then the door will look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also fixed. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame.

It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their inner space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.

Panel door manufacturing

Paneled doors have the most complex structure, and one cannot do without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them during its manufacture, since the elements require special processing.

Panel doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or glued laminated timber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. On sale you can find a lot of different models, but for self-production in the absence of significant experience in carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first thing to do when deciding to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing of the future design and put down the dimensions of each of the parts on it. This drawing shows a door with four panels: a) general view of the door; b) spiked nodal connections of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock crossbar; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper mullion; 6 - lower mullion; 7- top panel; 8 - bottom panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove.
	To make a frame, you need a bar - it can be made from a massive board or from a glued bar. It will be somewhat more difficult to work with the latter, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. The beam will be needed for vertical elements, crossbars and mullion. The beam must be processed with a milling cutter, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes curly cuts are immediately made, which will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use a glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove must be left even.
	Then, you need to work on the crossbars, cutting out the connecting spikes on both sides and processing all the edges with a router. At the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end side of the upper and lower crossbars, which will go to the end of the door, remains flat and solid.
	According to the size of the spikes on the crossbars, in the vertical bars, cut-grooves are made for assembling the door. Before you make them, the bars are carefully marked.
	For the manufacture of panels that will be installed in the grooves of the crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all or several of the panel parts can be replaced with glass. If it is glass that is chosen, then you will also need glazing beads, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them.
	The panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut out grooves, they are framed with a figuratively cut glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then for their manufacture plywood or boards are purchased that have a thickness greater than for flat panels - it can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than the grooves cut in the transverse and vertical bars, since it should freely enter them.
	All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to once again check all the elements and, if necessary, additional markup. The assembly of all parts into a single canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All spikes, before installation in the grooves, are smeared with wood glue.
	The canvas is assembled in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical bars, according to the markings, all the details are glued - crossbars and panels. - Next, mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in the crossbars and mullions. - After that, the remaining vertical beam is glued.
	- The framing glazing beads are glued last. If necessary, a rubber mallet or a wooden mallet is used to install the spikes in the grooves. After that, the canvas is carefully lined from all sides, and its corners are checked with a building corner. Then, it is compressed with clamps until it dries.
	On the finished door leaf, markings are made for the installation of fittings - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after the final surface finish.
	Finishing the door can be done with acrylic lacquers or water-based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, and thus emphasize the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or more layers. From above, the stained wood can be covered with a colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries, fittings are installed.

The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the leaf in the door frame.

These parameters are, in principle, identical for mounting any type of leaf in a door jamb.

In conclusion, it must be said that it is quite difficult to make a wooden door on your own, without experience in carpentry. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools that not everyone has in their home “arsenal”. Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it is best to order it to a professional master or buy a ready-made version.

Video: a master class on making a paneled door from a solid wood

But if you still decide to experiment or there is a persistent desire to learn how to make ever-in-demand carpentry, then you must definitely purchase high-quality tools, both manual and electric (including, of course, a milling cutter with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to turn out well, you can try to make individual parts. In any case, if there is a desire to do such work, then you need to try your hand.

Learn how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.