Electric heated floor in a wooden house: types and installation diagram. Warm water floor in a wooden house Light heated water floor in a wooden house

The desire to make a home warm, cozy and comfortable pushes people to use modern heating technologies. The installation of heated floors has become especially popular. Installing such a system is not difficult, but installation, for example, on a wooden base has a number of features.

Purpose of heated floors and installation features

A wooden floor resembles a multi-layer cake, the main components of which are rough laying, layers of thermal insulation and waterproofing, a finishing base and the final floor covering. Between these layers you can lay a warm floor - a modern heating system that allows you to organize heating of the room.

When installing heated floors on a wooden base, you need to consider the following:

• If wooden floors are part of a wooden house, then when installing the system it is important to remember that during the first year after construction the walls shrink significantly, which can reach 5%.
• Wood is a natural material that is sensitive to changes in the indoor microclimate. With strong changes in humidity and temperature, it can dry out, crack or rot.

First of all, you need to decide whether underfloor heating will be the main type of heating, or whether you plan to install it as an additional one. This affects the choice of equipment power. For example, when installed as the main type of heating, the specific power of the system should be 180 W/sq.m, and as an auxiliary heating system - 140 W/sq.m.

For installation on insulated terraces or in a winter garden, equipment whose power is 15–20% higher is suitable. The same indicator should be taken into account when choosing a system if there is a cold basement under the insulated surface.

The installation of heated floors occurs in predetermined steps. Its value depends on the planned heating intensity. In cool places, such as near the outer wall of a building, heating sections can be laid at smaller intervals than in the center of the room.

Kinds

One of the types of electric heated floors is mats

Heated floor models are divided into two groups:

• Electric floors are specialized current-carrying systems consisting of heating mats, cables or special heating film.
• Water floors are structures made of tubes with coolant circulating inside, which are attached to the base and connected to centralized heating or its own boiler with a pump.

Electric floors, in turn, are divided into three types:

• Heat cable. It is sold in skeins; models differ in the degree of heating and the amount of heat generated. Power range - 120–180 W/sq.m.
• Mats. This is an analogue of a cable floor, in which the heating element is attached to a base with a given pitch.
• Infrared film, along the edges of which there are contacts. Power - 150–220 Wm/sq. m.

Electric floors are easier to install and smaller in size; when installing them, it is not always necessary to dismantle the old floor covering. They heat up faster, and with the help of a customizable control system, you can set a particular temperature in each room. In addition, electrical structures are durable and can last up to 50 years.

But when installing on a wooden base, you must remember that there is a risk of fire in case of a short circuit. Another disadvantage of electric floors is their high energy consumption. When laying such structures, it is also necessary to check whether the electrical wiring can withstand the additional load.

Water systems are safer. All elements of such floors are hidden by the top floor covering, so the pipes do not take up extra space inside the room and do not spoil the interior. When installed on a wooden floor, water systems heat the room evenly, but weaker than electric structures, because the thermal conductivity of wood is low. It should also be taken into account that there is a risk of leaks, especially at the joints.

In general, water-type underfloor heating is the most common backup heating system.

The choice of heating method also depends on what kind of top covering will be used in the house. If you plan to lay ceramic or porcelain tiles, it is better to choose mats or a standard heat cable for heating. For parquet boards or laminates, a film heating system is used. Water heated floors can be used with all types of floor coverings.

If installed correctly and following basic safety and operating rules, all types of structures are suitable for installation on a wooden floor.

Water-heated floors are cleaner and safer than electric ones

Installation of water heated floors on a wooden base

• Building level.
• Set of adjustable wrenches and wrenches.
• A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
• Shears for metal-plastic pipes.
• Hot welding.
• Roulette.
• Pipes for coolant circulation.
• Waterproofing film
• Thermal insulation material
• Fastenings - clamps, brackets, strips and so on.
• Equipment for connecting to the heating system: couplings, adapters, mixers, manifolds.

To create a warm floor, various types of tubes can be used: metal, metal-plastic, plastic, suture, seamless and others. The most popular variety is seamless metal-plastic highways.

Water system design

When laying a pipe system on an existing wooden floor, it is necessary to assess its condition. If there are small cracks, they need to be sealed using heat-insulating material or grout mixtures. If the old floor cannot be repaired, it must be dismantled. The reasons for dismantling are:

1. Lack of insulation. The wind can “walk” under the boards.
2. The distance between individual joists is too large. It should not exceed 50–60 centimeters.

After checking and possibly dismantling the old wooden floor, you can begin installing a new structure. It is produced in several stages:

Do-it-yourself cable heating system installation

Required materials and tools

In the process of installing a cable floor, you will need a set of equipment and tools:

• Heating cable.
• Thermostat.
• Foil and material for thermal insulation.
• Corrugated tube.
• Mounting tape.
• Measuring instruments (ohmmeter, voltmeter) necessary to check the network.
• Fastening elements.
• Working tools: pliers, screwdrivers, scissors, tape measure.

Installation Guide

When installing a cable structure, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances:

1. The presence of a thermostat in the system minimizes the risk of fire and overheating of floor coverings. In wooden buildings the maximum temperature level is 40 degrees.
2. Heating elements are evenly distributed over the area of ​​the room. The exception is areas where cabinets, sofas and other heavy objects are placed. With constant exposure, their weight can deform the cable.
3. The height of the covering laid over an electric heating system depends on the type of wood. If the surface consists of hard wood (oak or beech), then the height limit is 2.4 mm. For “soft” varieties this figure is 2.2 cm.

It is not advisable to place carpets in a room with heated floors. They prevent heat from spreading throughout the room.

The main thing when laying the cable is to distribute it evenly over the entire floor surface

The installation technology is as follows:

1. The floors are cleaned of dust and other contaminants.
2. Cracks are sealed using grout mixtures produced for treating wood surfaces. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam: the product has high insulating properties.
3. The rough foundation bars are laid. Fastening to the base is done using self-tapping screws.
4. A thermal insulation layer is placed in the interlayer between the bars. The most commonly used is foil, which acts as an insulator and reflector of heat rays emitted by heating devices.
5. A galvanized mesh is laid over the thermal insulation layer.
6. The heating cable is laid on the mesh.
7. Small cuts are made at the intersection of the cable and the bars.
8. Fastening the wires to the bars is carried out using mounting film. If you need to secure the cable to the mesh, you can use clamps.

Installation of film heating on wooden floors

When preparing the base for installation of the film system, there is no need to dismantle the old coating. It is only necessary in case of significant physical wear.

Required materials and tools

When installing an infrared heated floor, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Heating film.
• Polyethylene film.
• Thermal insulating substrate.
• Thermostat and temperature sensor.
• Wire (cross-section - from 2.5 sq. mm).
• Tools: scissors, knife (can be a stationery knife), indicator screwdriver, tape measure, pliers.

Installation technology

If you plan to use infrared film as the main heating source, you need to ensure that it covers more than 70% of the floor.

Sheets of infrared film should be placed evenly on the floor, but in no case overlap each other

Self-installation and connection of the infrared floor is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Cleaning the floor from dust and other contaminants. Work takes place on a dry, clean surface.
2. When the rough layer is wet, the thermal film is waterproofed. For this, polyethylene film up to 50 microns thick is used.
3. A film made of polypropylene or metallized lavsan is used as a heat reflector (aluminum foil cannot be used for these purposes). First you need to cut the material. If a warm floor is installed in a large room, you need to ensure that the length of the film is no more than 10 meters.
4. The material is laid at a distance of 25–30 cm from each wall. The thermal film is laid out on the floor with the copper bars down. It is forbidden to step on the film or drop tools. It is also not allowed to overlap two sheets of paper on top of each other. Before installation, you should mark out the room, determine where heavy furniture and equipment will be placed, and avoid these places. Otherwise, due to constant pressure, the thermal film will deteriorate.

It is better to invite a competent electrician to connect the system to the electrical network. If you want to do this yourself, then the work should be organized as follows:

1. Strip the wire (8–10 mm) and insert the end into the contact clamp.
2. The contact is established on a sheet of film. The connection points and cut lines are insulated with vinyl mastic tape.
3. After connecting all the sheets, the resistance is measured at the ends of the wires connected to the thermostat.
4. Next, the load is calculated. To do this, use the formula W=V2/R, where V is the network voltage, R is the resistance. The final figure should be about 20-25% lower than what is indicated on the thermostat. After this, you can connect the device.
5. Thermal film strips are connected to the thermostat in parallel. To avoid possible damage to the wiring, individual sections are hidden under thermal insulation.
6. Then the temperature sensor is placed. The device is included with the thermostat. The installation location depends on what material is planned to be used as the finishing coating: if it is soft, then the sensor is installed in a place with minimal load.
7. Connecting the thermostat to the network and testing the system for contact overheating, sparking, and so on.

After all work on installing the film floor is completed, the finishing coating is laid. If you plan to use ceramic or porcelain tiles, a mounting grid is first laid out on the floor and attached in places where there is no thermal film. After laying, the adhesive solution used to install the tiles must dry. This will take about a month. It is not recommended to turn on the heated floor until this moment.

Video: How to make film heating on a wooden base

An ideal indoor microclimate is achieved using heating devices. To obtain the optimal temperature in the room, you need to follow the rules for selecting and installing heated floors on a wooden base, which allow any homeowner to easily install the chosen system.

Most people are skeptical about the idea of ​​installing a heating system based on a wooden floor base. After all, everyone knows that temperature changes trigger deformation processes - and in general, wood-like materials have too low a coefficient of thermal conductivity for such a design to be effective. However, new technologies are emerging that make it possible not only to additionally heat individual rooms, but also to organize quite comfortable main heating in an unconventional way. We will tell you how to do it on a wooden floor in a private house in this article.

Basically, the issue of installing heated floors on prefabricated wooden foundations arises in individual households. In the apartments, all floors are concrete, and such technology may only be necessary if you do not want to remove the old wooden flooring or parquet during renovation. And in houses, even if the floors of the first floor are arranged in the form of a concrete screed on the ground, the vast majority of interfloor floors - even in brick houses - are constructed from beams.

1. This design is a multilayer sandwich, the top of which is the subfloor of the above room. If the house is just being built, heating elements can be placed inside this pie; if it is already in use, floor heating can be organized without removing the sheet flooring.
2. The layering of the structure can be different and depends both on the structure of the floor as a whole and on the type of floor covering that is supposed to be laid at the finish. And note, this does not necessarily have to be a board, carpet or some decorative chipboards. It may well be ceramics, which, with proper preparation of the base, fits perfectly on wood.
3. With the same success, heating elements can be installed under any coating, and the choice of one or another installation technology depends on their type. You can, for example, provide a traditional wet screed, on which it is very convenient to install not only ceramic, but also quartz vinyl tiles. And it’s not so much about convenience as it is about the better ability of the solution layer to accumulate and transfer heat.

Note! However, today there are alternative ways to improve the heat transfer of prefabricated wood floors. For example, for laying water pipes or cables, metal plates were invented that warm up to the temperature of the coolant and give off heat well.

The plates have recesses, thanks to which the heating elements do not protrude to the surface and do not interfere with the laying of the finished floor. Only a thin membrane is laid between them, which helps remove steam from the internal space. This is if the coating itself is vapor permeable. You can pour and on top of the plates, only in this case the layer between them should be waterproof.

Are there any advantages to not having a monolithic screed?

If there is a concrete monolith floor in the cake, the principle of the heating effect is more or less clear to everyone. Heating elements - be it pipes with hot water, molded electrical cables or rolled mats and films - transfer thermal energy to nearby material.

1. If it is a stone, which is a concrete screed, then it heats up perfectly and gradually transfers heat to the overlying layer. If it is tiles made of natural or artificial stone (ceramics also belongs to this category), the tandem turns out to be simply ideal, since their properties are approximately the same.
2. But when the heat source is shrouded not in a material that transfers heat, but insulating it, the efficiency of heating the premises is significantly reduced. Hence the need arose to use metal strips that could accumulate and transmit instead of structural material.
3. However, in some situations, the absence of a screed is even preferable. For example, if there is a building under the first floor, into which heat should not flow. Or in old houses, where after many years of use the floor beams may lose some of their original strength, and it is undesirable to load them with a rather massive layer of concrete.

water heated floor

On a note! Let us give one more, very significant argument in favor of a prefabricated heated floor, which does not have a screed. Such a floor can be used immediately after installation, whereas when pouring concrete, you must first wait the required 28 days to gain strength (you can walk, but you cannot apply heat). Moreover, even without a screed, you can lay any covering, including tiles, at the finish.

Methods for dry assembly of heated floors

The most common method of installing layers of insulated flooring is the laying option. In this case, pipes or other heating elements are laid either between the joists or on top of the rough boards.

Between the joists

In the first case, a special structured substrate is laid between the lags, into the recesses of which it is very convenient to install pipes.

It is best to take the substrate with a reflective top layer, but you can also use regular foil insulation. Simply, thanks to the recesses in the special substrate, you don’t have to figure out how to fix the pipes in the desired position.

But if necessary, you can always come up with something, as the photo below convinces us of. Here, transverse strips were installed between the logs, to which the heating elements were fixed with metal clamps. Finally, all this is sewn up with sheet material, on top of which a decorative covering is already mounted.

On rough surface

In the case of laying pipes or cables on top of a subfloor or an old plank floor in the latter, it is necessary to mill grooves into which the metal plates that we have already mentioned above must be inserted. The only problem is that the tool needed for this is unlikely to be at hand, and not everyone can handle it. And hiring a specialist for this work will cost about 65 rubles/m2.

To avoid milling, you can use the method shown in the example below. Here, in order to install galvanized plates, boards were mounted on a wooden base. They were chosen to be of such a thickness and installed at a pitch that would allow the protrusion in the plate to fit perfectly into the gap.

It is doubtful that this method provides any savings, because you have to pay for milling and boards one way or another. If it is not possible to lay heating elements between the beams - you do not want to dismantle the old floor, or the small height of the ceiling does not allow installing another tier of logs, it is much more convenient and cheaper to use heating films rather than pipes. True, due to the cost of the coolant, such a floor may turn out to be more expensive in operation.

You don’t even need to make a screed on top of them - just cover the system with a protective film and lay the laminate. But under the rolled materials you will have to arrange an intermediate hard layer in the form of plywood or other sheet materials. But this is a double-edged sword.

self-leveling floor

On a note! Such a layer will become an additional obstacle to heat - reflective elements will not help much either. For greater heating efficiency, a mortar screed is still better. In the case of a film, it can be made very thin, from a self-leveling floor or a self-made mortar without large filler, which adds increased weight to ordinary concrete. Just keep in mind that the filler mixture must contain additives that make the monolith immune to elevated temperatures.

There is no uniform technology for assembling heated floors on wooden bases. Here everything needs to be decided based on the specific situation, and there are quite a lot of options. You can come up with your own way of arranging layers, only in this case you need to correctly compare the abilities of a particular material to perceive and transfer heat.

Sequence of work on a wooden base

As already noted, now most developers provide heated floors immediately during the construction of a house. Thanks to them, real estate can always be sold more profitably, and the buyer will be sure that he will definitely not freeze in his new home. But people don’t always buy ready-made houses, but try to build them themselves whenever possible. Everyone understands perfectly well that it works out cheaper, and it’s easier to correct your own mistakes than other people’s.

Wooden buildings require special attention, as wood is highly susceptible to shrinkage. This applies not only to the frame of the house, but also to its internal lining, which after a year becomes not so attractive: cracks appear from which it blows, and in some places there are cracks.

Often, only then does the owner begin to think about installing heated floors. But there is furniture on them, and disassembling the covering to get to the joists is too labor-intensive work. How to get out of this situation?

Analysis of the “flight” step by step

We propose to consider this situation in more detail, using a specific example as a basis.

Table. Step-by-step installation instructions.

Steps, photo

Thanks to their many advantages, floor heating systems have gained wide popularity among homeowners, including owners of wooden private cottages. But in this case, the installation of heated floors has its own nuances, since such houses rarely have concrete foundations on which they are laid in the traditional way. In this article we will talk about these nuances and how best to install a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

Methods for installing underfloor heating

In wooden buildings, heated floors with coolant can be installed in 2 ways:

• Traditional, under a screed made of cement-sand mortar.
• “Dry” method, on wooden logs or beams

Since in houses made of wooden beams the floors of the first floor or the ceiling above the basement are often concrete, the traditional method of installing floor water systems cannot be completely discarded. Moreover, you should not try to build a heated floor over wooden joists on such bases; this will lead to unnecessary costs, and the result may not meet your expectations. It is better to install a heating system under the screed on rough concrete floors, and only then lay the wood flooring.

The situation is completely different when the house has wooden floors. You should not use a screed with a heating circuit on them, and here’s why:

• The cement-sand screed exerts an additional load for which the ceiling is not always designed.
• A good wooden house constantly “breathes”, as a result of which the mortar layer can crack, since the amplitude of its expansion does not coincide with the processes in wooden structures. It will be necessary to compensate for the expansion of the heating circuit, which is quite difficult and expensive.

For reference. Sometimes wooden houses are often built from insufficiently dried profiled timber, which is why at first changes occur in the thickness of the structure, leading to cracks in the material. In such conditions, the screed will certainly suffer.

The use of various electric floor heating systems cannot be ruled out, of which the most acceptable option is the use of infrared heated floors for heating a wooden house. A thin polymer film with heating elements applied to it is laid directly under the floor covering; no screed is required, which greatly simplifies installation work. However, in this case, the choice of energy resources for heating a home is limited to electricity, while the coolant of water heated floors can be heated from a gas, solid fuel or diesel boiler.

Some homeowners, paying tribute to tradition, build brick stoves in wooden houses, integrating a heating circuit for water into them. In this situation, there is simply no alternative to underfloor heating circuits with coolant.

Installation of water heated floors using the “dry” method

Joists and wooden floor beams are used as load-bearing structural elements of the floor in houses. The joists are installed on a solid base or on many point supports, while the beams have 2 support points at the edges and, in some cases, are additionally supported by partitions. Since the beam is a load-bearing structure of the floor, it is not allowed to make any grooves or cuts in it, this is the main difficulty when installing a heated floor in a wooden house. The only way out is to lay a subfloor from boards or sheets of chipboard, and from there you can begin constructing a “pie” of underfloor heating.

The situation with lags is somewhat different. When the timber is laid on a solid solid base, it is possible to cut grooves for the water circuit pipes and there is no need to make a subfloor. If the logs are supported at several points, then it is extremely undesirable to make cuts in them, as in load-bearing beams. But in any case, before installing a subfloor on top of the beams or joists, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid between them. To lay a heated floor over wooden joists on the first floor, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 80 mm, and for overlapping, 20-30 mm is sufficient. In this case, a waterproofing layer of polyethylene film should be laid under the thermal insulation material on the first floor.

Under the pretext that all floors of a private house constitute a single space, many installation manuals for heated floors indicate that the floors do not need to be insulated. Like, there’s nothing wrong with some of the heat from the heating circuit going down. In fact, this violates the very principle of operation of underfloor heating, since the heat coming from the ceilings of the room will remain in the upper zone, and in the room where the underfloor heating system is located, it may not be enough. To ensure that heat is distributed evenly throughout the rooms for which it is intended, lay a small layer of insulating material, arranging a warm, dry floor in the ceiling.

After the thermal insulation material has been laid and a rough base made of boards or chipboard has been installed, it is necessary to ensure that all the heat from the heating circuit is reflected upward. This is done in 2 ways:

• You need to start installing warm wooden floors by laying a foil reflective layer over the entire surface. In the case where the circuit pipes are planned to be laid directly on the insulation and through cuts in the joists, then the foil is laid only between them.
• A more expensive method is using slab wood materials and profiled sheets of galvanized metal. Having drawn a diagram of the layout of the contours of heated floors on a wooden base, in the intervals between the pipe routes, parts made of chipboard are attached to it with self-tapping screws. Sheets of galvanized steel are inserted into the resulting grooves.

The installation of water heated floors continues with the layout of the heating circuit pipes. For this purpose, metal-plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm (DN10) are most often used. The laying step here must be kept smaller than in heated floors under screed, since heat transfer in our case will not be as effective. The coolant pipe transfers heat to the coating not directly, but through an air gap, hence the reduction in heat transfer. Accordingly, the average pipe laying pitch should be 150 mm, maximum 200 mm. After this, the circuit is connected to the manifold, checked for leaks, and the finishing coating for the wooden floor can be laid.

Underfloor heating "under the screed"

The technology for installing underfloor heating, which involves embedding the contours into a screed made of cement-sand mortar, is widespread and quite well known; the floor cake is shown in the figure:

First, you need to ensure the waterproofing of the future slab by laying a plastic film over the concrete preparation. Then, in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, a damper tape is attached along the entire perimeter of the room along the walls, after which insulation is laid over the entire surface of the base.

In order for water-heated floors to have good heat transfer, a foil film with markings along which the pipes are laid out is laid on top of the thermal insulation. The laying pitch here varies from 150 mm (for parquet with carpet) to 350 mm (for tiles). It is necessary to ensure that the length of each circuit does not exceed 100 m. The pipes are fastened using special strips or plastic “harpoons”. At the end, the circuit is connected to the distributor and checked for leaks.

The last stage is pouring the screed. The optimal thickness of the solution layer is 3-5 cm above the top of the pipe, complete hardening time is 3 weeks. After this, you can finally make a warm floor in a wooden house by laying a finishing coating over the screed.

Conclusion

Installing a warm water floor on a wooden surface is somewhat more difficult than under a screed, and its heat transfer is less. But don’t let this worry you, it will not affect energy consumption in any way. You just need to take into account that floor circuits will not be enough for full heating and you will need to provide a radiator heating system.

Warm floors in a wooden house are an effective system for heating interior spaces, operating in tandem with standard heating. The choice of the type of heated floor for a wooden house depends on many factors: the efficiency of the system, the cost-effectiveness of installation and operation, the complexity of arrangement and the possibility of combination with one or another floor covering. Having selected a suitable auxiliary heating scheme, you need to understand how to make a warm floor in a wooden house step by step: starting with laying the base base and ending with decorative finishing.

Underfloor heating systems for a wooden house

It is believed that the best option for a heated floor for a private wooden house is a water system, when the heated coolant - water or antifreeze - circulates through pipes laid in the underground space. Electric heated floors, which function by heating an electric cable or graphite plates (carbon rods) sealed in film, are less commonly installed in wooden buildings, but they also have certain advantages. Before choosing a heated floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to analyze all the pros and cons of existing heating systems, decide on the filling of the floor “pie”, as well as the type of decorative material for the finishing flooring.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating systems

• Mermen. Complex and expensive to install, inexpensive to operate. Inertial - due to smooth heating and cooling, they are optimally suited for plank floors, parquet boards, linoleum, and carpet. They create a significant load on the floor and are distinguished by the largest thickness of the floor “pie”.
• Electrical cables. Light weight and slight loss in room height compared to water systems. Disadvantages include the possibility of short circuits and fires, and significant energy consumption.
• Electrical cables on mats. Simplified installation diagram, smaller heating element cross-section than classic cable systems. Electric heated floors are perfectly combined with ceramic floor coverings.
• Infrared. The most budget-friendly, fastest and easiest-to-install option for heated floors, easy to install yourself. They have low thickness and weight, low inertia, and average power consumption. It is possible to quickly adjust the temperature using a thermostat and perform partial system repairs. Combines well with laminate.

Stages of installing a heated floor in a wooden house

The procedure for installing a heated floor depends on the chosen system: cable, water or infrared, the type of base (concrete, wood) and the type of floor covering.

Instructions for laying heated floors in a wooden house on joists:

Among all types of heating, installing a water heated floor in a wooden house is perhaps the most complex and difficult. When laying, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the building, select the optimal type of flooring and strictly follow the phased installation plan.

Is it possible to water heat a wooden floor?

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, installing a warm water floor in a wooden house made of timber is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the heating issue. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances related to the peculiarities of using a wooden house.

So, for example, heating floors above 30 degrees is prohibited. A wooden surface under the influence of high temperatures is easily deformed and turns into dust. Therefore, a water heated floor on a wooden base must not be connected to the central heating circuit, but a separate heat source must be used for this purpose.

Having a warm water floor in a wooden country house greatly limits the possibility of using a concrete screed. The heating system will have to be installed dry, which also creates certain inconveniences.

When choosing a floor covering, you should take into account that some popular finishing materials: laminate, parquet boards - when heated above 25°C, they begin to emit toxic fumes of formaldehyde.

Most manufacturers of heating equipment take into account the need for the simultaneous use of two heating circuits with different heating intensities, providing customers with boilers with the ability to connect heating radiators and heated floors.

Options for installing a wooden floor with water heating

There are several options for installing heated floors in a wooden house. The choice of installation method is selected depending on the technical characteristics of the building.

Common installation methods are:

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying a water circuit. The mats can be laid on a flat floor base. To do this, first trim the surface using plywood or QSB boards. A modular floor does not require the use of cement mixtures. Polypropylene pipes cover the DSP on top and the floor covering is laid.
• Installation of warm concrete water floors on top of wooden structures. Before installation, ensure maximum insulation of wooden elements from moisture. All work is carried out exclusively with ready-made compounds with a short drying period.
• Milling a wooden floor for pipes of a warm water floor system. Using cutters, machines cut out recesses for the passage of the pipeline. The wooden base begins to serve as mats. As a result, costs for floor components are reduced. The disadvantage of milling is the labor intensity of the process. But if you have specialized tools, installation time can be reduced to a minimum.

You can install water-heated floors on a wooden floor using other methods. There is the following method. In a wooden frame, a pipeline is simply laid under the logs. The plank floor is dismantled, the water circuit is installed, after which the flooring is laid back.

To protect the wood as much as possible from moisture, the water circuit is laid in a special corrugation. The corrugation protects against the effects of water even in the event of leaks.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

Installing a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. The exception is special safety measures necessary to protect wooden surfaces from moisture.

Practice has shown that the best option would be to use polypropylene pipes.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

The maximum length of the water circuit should not exceed 70 m. If this is not enough for the heated area, so-called water floor laying areas are created. To ensure uniform supply to each heating circuit, a water manifold is installed.

What floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

The following types of flooring are traditionally used:

• Ceramic tile– the advantage of ceramics is rapid heating of the surface and high heat transfer. Use is limited to the hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential areas. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be covered with a screed or covered with a cement bonded particle board.
• Laminate and parquet boards– there are two types of installation of water heating on wooden floors: on mats or prepared grooves. Laminate or parquet can be laid regardless of the method of installation work. The only drawback of the floor covering is the inability to heat the surface above 25°C.
• Ordinary board - you can also lay a heated water floor on wooden beams with your own hands, laying the board over the water contour. The solution does not require serious material investments. This method is chosen if it is not possible to reduce the distance to the ceiling. Subsequently, it is possible to additionally lay linoleum or laminate.

1. Hammer.
2. Rules.
3. Angle grinder for cutting reinforcement.
4. Construction level.

To work with wooden surfaces, you will need a set of cutters and drills, and a powerful drill.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation?

The peculiarities of the design on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in the phased installation of heating will lead to operational problems. The appearance of condensation and leaks is critical.

The pipe laying system does not allow the following violations:

Warm floors for a wooden house are a reasonable solution. If you follow the installation recommendations, you can avoid possible difficulties during future operation.

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