Lighting in an apartment is an important component of all home electrical wiring. In turn, it is difficult to imagine lighting without switches. Therefore, installing a switch is a fairly popular type of electrical installation work, which will not be difficult to learn. In this article we will take a closer look at how to connect a switch with your own hands.
Types of switches
Modern switches are classified into several types.
By design:
- single-key;
- two-key.
By installation method:
- internal;
- external.
The choice of which one to install depends on the type of electrical wiring you have and the type of fixture.
Features of connecting the switch
A switch is a switching device for closing and opening an electrical circuit by breaking a phase.
Therefore, it is the phase wire that must pass through the switch, not the neutral wire, which must pass to the installation site of the lamp directly from the junction box.
In some apartments, incorrect connections sometimes occur. This is fraught with the fact that when the light is turned off while replacing the light bulb, an electric shock may occur, since instead of a phase, zero is disconnected, and the light bulb socket is energized.
If such an incorrect connection is detected, the phase phase of the wires should be changed. To do this, you need to change the circuit in the distribution box to the correct one.
When installing this device, the question arises at what height to install it, are there any rules and standards. According to the rules for electrical installations:
- It is recommended to install switches on the wall on the side of the door handle at a height of up to 1 m; they can be installed under the ceiling with control using a cord.
- Any switches and sockets must be located at a distance of at least 0.6 m from the doorway of the shower stall.
- The minimum distance from switches, sockets and electrical installation elements to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 m.
In Soviet times, there were slightly different requirements for what height to install switches in an apartment. The standard height was 1.6 m. Therefore, in many apartments they are still located “at eye level”.
Preparation of the workplace
When performing any electrical installation work, first of all, it is necessary to turn off the power supply, check that there is no voltage, and exclude the possibility of unauthorized re-switching on the voltage. Using a voltage indicator, determine which of the wires in the junction box is phase and mark it with a marker.
Prepare the necessary tools:
- pliers;
- voltage indicator;
- screwdriver;
- construction knife;
- marker.
This type of switch is installed in apartments with internal electrical wiring, that is, all wiring is hidden in the wall.
At the location where the socket is installed there should be a recess in which a special box for the switch is installed, into which the wire is routed.
Operating procedure:
- Preparing the switch for installation. It is necessary to disassemble the switch; to do this, unscrew the screws connecting the button to the frame and remove it from the frame.
- Trim the insulation from the wires where they connect, leaving about 1 centimeter of exposed area on each.
- Insert both phase wires into the holes for the wires: the one coming from the distribution box into the inlet hole and the one coming from the switch to the installation site of the lamp into the outlet hole.
- Tighten the screws tightly to securely fix the wires, which should not move freely.
- Install the mechanism in a special box in the wall and securely fix it to avoid loosening.
- Install the previously removed frame onto the mechanism and secure it with screws.
- Install switch keys.
If we are not talking about replacement, but about installing a new switch, it becomes necessary to install a special box for the switch. This is done as follows:
- At the location where the electrical wiring switch is installed, make a niche in the wall slightly larger than the size of the box.
- Lead the phase wire through the hole in the bottom of the box. Secure the box in the niche using any plaster solution.
Connecting an external single-key switch
If home electrical wiring is done in an open way, that is, on top of the walls, then external switches are used. In this case, a box for the switch is not used; the switch is mounted directly on the wall using self-tapping screws, and in some cases, dowels.
Operating procedure:
- Disassemble the switch. To do this, remove the keys from it and unscrew the screws securing the mechanism to the body.
- Having cut off the insulation at the ends of the wires, insert the phase wire coming from the junction box into the inlet of the mechanism, and going from the switch to the installation site of the lamp into the outlet.
- Tighten the screws to securely fix the wires.
- Attach the socket box with the mechanism to the wall and connect it to the switch body. Some models of switches come without a socket box, in which case the mechanism is mounted directly on the wall.
- Set a key.
Connecting a two-gang switch
Installation of this type of switch is used in the following cases:
- The chandelier shades are divided into sections to regulate the level of illumination, each section is connected to a separate switch button.
- The switch is connected to autonomous lamps.
If with a single-key switch everything is clear and simple, then connecting a two-key switch seems much more complicated: the terminal box is different and there are more wires. In fact, this should not cause any big difficulties, the connection algorithm is the same. The device is not much different from a single-key device.
Operating procedure:
- Disassemble the switch. The mechanism is somewhat different from the single-key mechanism. But there’s nothing wrong with that: in modern switches, all contacts are marked. L - contact for the supply phase, outgoing contacts are indicated by downward arrows.
- Having cut off the insulation from the wires at the point of their connection, we connect the wires to the corresponding contacts of the mechanism.
- When installing internally, secure the mechanism in a special box in the wall and put on the previously removed frame. For outdoor use, mount it on the wall and install the switch housing.
- Set keys.
Connecting an illuminated switch
Who, at least once, while searching for a switch in complete darkness, did not trip over shoes and other objects lying on the floor, and, swearing, barely fumble for the treasured button on the wall? This situation is painfully familiar to everyone. Therefore, to make searching easier, an illuminated switch was created. When the light is off, the indicator lights up and indicates its location.
Principle of design and operation of an illuminated switch
Unlike a conventional one, a backlit switch is equipped with a light indication; the indicator is a neon lamp or LED connected in parallel to the contacts of the device and a current-limiting resistor that reduces the voltage in the network.
When we turn off the light, a phase break occurs in the switch contacts going to the lamp. But at the same time, the circuit to which the indicator LED is connected is not broken. The resistor lowers the incoming voltage to the minimum required to turn on the LED.
When the light is turned on, the indicator turns off. This occurs because the current follows the path of least resistance. The lamp is connected to a wire with a cross-section much larger than that of the wire going to the LED, which means the resistance is much less.
A reasonable question arises: if the indicator LED lights up, it means there is voltage, then why doesn’t the lamp in the lamp turn on? It's all about the resistor through which current passes to the LED. It lowers the voltage to a level that is not enough to turn on a light bulb in a chandelier, but enough to turn on an LED.
Connecting an illuminated switch is the same as a regular one.
It is not recommended to connect an illuminated switch together with fluorescent or LED lamps equipped with a ballast. The reason is that when the switch is off, the current flowing through the LED to the lamp charges the filter capacitor, which does not need much current to charge. The capacitor, in turn, tries to turn on the energy-saving lamp startup circuit. However, there is not enough charge on the capacitor, it discharges, and the lamp goes out again. And this can continue indefinitely.
Therefore, the backlit switch is installed only on incandescent or halogen lamps.
You should also pay attention to the fact that if the lamp is missing or burnt out, the backlight will not work. For the simple reason that an LED indicator needs both zero and phase to light up. And the zero to the indicator comes from the switched off chandelier on the ceiling. If the lamp is missing, then the power circuit is broken.
Compliance with safety regulations
Well, we’ve figured out how to install switches - one of the simplest electrical installation jobs that does not require special skills and talents. If you study everything in advance and understand what, how and why exactly this is done, then you can easily and quickly carry out this hitherto unfamiliar procedure for installing a switch.
And one of the most important points is compliance with safety precautions, otherwise the current strength will test your strength. And there are not so many safety rules:
- Before starting work, stop the power supply by turning off the circuit breakers in the electrical panel. Take measures to exclude the possibility of re-applying voltage.
- All tools must be in good working order. It is necessary to check for damage and chips on the insulating parts of the instruments.
Light switch connection diagram, as a rule, causes difficulties for many unprepared people, although in principle there is nothing complicated about it. I will try to convince you of this.
This article presents detailed step-by-step photo instructions, in which the complete process of installing and connecting the circuit, as well as connecting its main elements, is described step by step.
The main misunderstanding is caused by the lack of a clear example. After all, what do we have in fact, trying to understand the circuit and at least roughly understand the principle of its structure? There is a distribution box under the ceiling, in which there are a bunch of incomprehensible connections, a switch near the door, a chandelier or lamp on the ceiling, and all the wires are hidden under a thick layer of plaster. Figuring out what goes where and how it all works is quite difficult. That is why in this article we approached this issue so seriously, analyzing in detail the entire installation from the very beginning to the end. After reading this manual schemelight switch connections will not cause you any difficulties.
Lighting control
Before we look at the instructions, it should be noted that there are many different lighting control devices. Below is a list of the most common:
- single-key light switch (its circuit is discussed in this article);
- two-key light switch;
- three-key light switch;
- dimer;
- switch with motion (presence) sensor;
- single-key pass-through light switch (switch);
- two-key pass-through light switch (switch).
The choice of lighting control device occurs individually for each specific case, since any of the devices presented in the list above has its own functional features. A more detailed description, purpose and connection of each device can be found in the corresponding instructions presented on our website.
Installation of pre-installation elements of a single-key switch circuit
Any circuit starts with a junction box. It is in it that all the necessary wires will soon be collected, the cores of which will be connected to each other in a certain sequence, creating a single-key switch circuit.
This example shows a method for making hidden wiring; in a compact form you conduct what is usually located under the plaster. For hidden and open wiring, the switch connection diagram is the same.
We mount the socket box, it is the basis for mounting the socket or switch mechanism.
The installation of this circuit element is presented in more detail on our website in the following instructions, and.
Now, let's add a circuit breaker; it performs the function of protecting the electrical circuit from overload currents and short circuits; it is usually installed in the power panel.
To complete the picture, we are missing the last element of the circuit - the lamp; we will install it a little later, and now we are moving on to the next stage.
Laying the wires necessary to complete the single-key switch circuit
It was time to install the wire. In our example, we use a wire of the VVGngP 3*1.5 brand, three-core, with a cross-section of 1.5 mm, intended for permanent electrical wiring inside residential and non-residential premises.
You can read more about this brand of wire in the article, "".
Let's start the installation by laying the wire from the junction box to the socket box.
In the distribution box and socket box you need to leave a supply of wire for connection; 10-15 centimeters will be enough.
Now, we lay the next wire, from the junction box to the lamp.
The next wire will be the final wire of the circuit; it is designed to supply power to the circuit breaker; it goes from the electricity meter or input circuit breaker to the upper contacts of the circuit breaker going to a specific group or direction.
Attention! If you already have a supply wire and there is voltage on it, then before carrying out all electrical work it must be turned off. After disconnecting, you must make sure that there is no voltage on the wire; the easiest way to perform this action is to use a voltage indicator. If necessary, you can use the detailed instructions for use provided on our website in the article.
We move on to the next stage of the circuit, connecting the equipment.
Connecting protection, control and lighting devices
Let's start by connecting a protection device that will protect the circuit from overloads and short circuit currents. In our example, this role is played by a two-pole circuit breaker.
Also, devices such as voltage limiters and voltage limiters are used as circuit protection devices. To get to know these devices better, find out how they work and what they are intended for, you can follow the appropriate links.
Before starting installation, we need to determine the color of the wires. Our wire comes in blue, black and yellow colors with a green stripe. The blue wire is always used for zero, yellow with a green stripe is ground, white is phase.
Using a knife, carefully remove the first protective insulating layer.
Now we remove the required amount of insulation from the phase and neutral conductors for connection, approximately 1 cm.
We insert the stripped wire into the contact terminals and tighten the clamping screws. We check the reliability of the wire by pulling it up from the contact clamp and swinging it left and right. If the wire remains motionless, the contact is good.
Similarly, we connect the outgoing wires to the junction box. Be sure to follow the color scheme of the wires; if on the suitable contacts of the machine the zero is on the top on the right, then on the bottom on the outgoing contacts it should be on the right. Accordingly, the phase will be on the left.
Please note that on the outgoing wires the color of the wire has changed slightly, the phase wire has become completely white. Different manufacturers color the wire cores differently, the phase and ground wires are most often subject to changes, the zero is invariably blue. I would recommend For ease of installation, to avoid confusion, use wire from the same manufacturer.
We remove the first outer insulation, measure out the required amount of wire needed to connect to the machine, strip it and connect it. We check the reliability of the wire fastening in the contact clamps; if everything is in order, we move on.
We remove the insulating layer from each core.
We connect the wires to the contacts of the circuit breaker.
In our example, a three-core wire is used and this is not accidental, the fact is that this wire is universal. For example, now you want to hang a lamp in the room that is turned on by a single-key switch, but time will pass and after 3 years of making another renovation, you will want to hang not a lamp, but a chandelier. To connect it, you will need another switch, a two-key one, and it requires not a double, but a triple wire. Having a three-core wire in the junction box, you can easily change the circuit with just one additional twist. Also, if necessary, the third wire can be used as. This option is suitable if you are installing a lamp with a metal body in a room with high humidity; a grounding contact is usually provided on such lamps.
To connect the grounding wire we use a special contact clamp.
We measure out the required amount of wire, strip it and connect it. We check the reliability of the contact connection.
We do the same on the outgoing contact.
The circuit breaker is connected. All the wires necessary to complete the circuit are in the junction box.
Let's move on to connecting the lamp. In our case, a socket with a light bulb is installed. We prepare the wires for connection, remove the outer insulation, measure out the required amount of wire for connection.
We strip the phase and neutral conductors for connection.
In the case of a light bulb and socket, a grounding wire is not needed; we insulate it and bend it to the side. When connecting a lamp or chandelier, do the same; there is no need to cut it off; it may be useful in the future.
We connect the wires to the socket.
Now our diagram has almost acquired its proper form, to complete the picture we perform.
We strip the wires and remove the required amount of outer insulation.
We don’t need the grounding wire, we isolate it and put it in the socket box. We remove the insulation from the copper core of the phase and neutral wires.
Our single-key switch has plug-in contacts, this will greatly facilitate our connection.
The contact of the suitable phase is indicated by the letter "L", and the arrow extending downwards.
We connect the white wire to the appropriate contact, the blue wire to the outgoing one.
All that remains is to install the mechanism in the socket box (mounting cup) and The switch connection is completed.
You can see more details about how other electrical wiring elements are installed (sockets, double switches, illuminated light switches, lamps and chandeliers).
Our diagram has acquired a general form, all the necessary equipment is connected.
Let's move on to connecting the wires in the junction box.
We analyze in detail the connection diagram, how to connect a light bulb and switch
Let's go through the wires again.
The wire on the left is the power supply.
The wire suitable from above goes to the lamp (chandelier). In our example, for a socket with a light bulb.
The bottom wire goes to the switch.
We start wiring the circuit for connecting the switch with the wire going to the switch. We clean it and remove the first layer of insulation. There is no need to cut the wire too much; at least 10 cm of each wire should remain in the box.
We remove the insulation from the copper core of the phase and neutral wires, approximately 4 cm.
Let's move on to the wire that goes to the lamp. We remove the top insulation, strip 4 cm each on the phase and neutral wires.
Now we can start connecting the wires.
Zero comes to the light bulb directly from the supply wire, and the phase is made into a gap. The switch will break it; when you press the power button, it will close the circuit and supply a phase to the light bulb; when you turn it off, it will open and the phase will disappear.
We connect the phase white wire going to the light bulb with the outgoing blue wire of the switch.
There are different types of wire connections; in our example, the connection is made in the simplest way, by twisting. First, twist the wires together with your fingers.
Then we stretch the connection using pliers and tightly twist both wires together.
We bite off the uneven end of the twist.
In this circuit, we do not use ground wires, so we insulate them and place them in a distribution box so that they do not interfere.
Now let's move on to the power wire. We clean it and prepare the phase and neutral wires for connection.
We insulate the grounding wire and place it in the junction box.
Now, we supply power to the switch. We connect the phase core of the supply wire with the phase core of the wire going to the switch. Twist the two white wires.
And at the end of the circuit, we connect the neutral core of the supply wire to the neutral core of the wire going to the lamp (lamp).
The connection diagram for the single-key switch is ready.
Now, we need to check the operation of the circuit in action. Screw the light bulb into the socket.
Apply voltage. Turn on the circuit breaker.
Using a voltage indicator, we check the correct connection of the circuit, make sure that we have not mixed up anything, there should be a phase on the phase wires, and zero on the zero.
And only after that we turn on the switch.
The light comes on, the circuit is connected correctly. Turn off the voltage, insulate the twists and place them in the distribution box.
The installation of the circuit is completed, the question of how to connect a light bulb and switch is disassembled and explained in detail.
In this work we used:
Material
- distribution box - 1
- socket box - 1
- single-key switch - 1
- lamp - 1
- wire (measured according to the specific measurements of your room)
- circuit breaker - 1
- ground contact - 1
- insulating tape - 1
Tool
- pliers
- wire cutters
- flat screwdriver
- crosshead screwdriver
- voltage indicator
How much we saved by doing the connection diagram ourselves:
- specialist visit - 200 rubles
- installation of an internal distribution box - 550 rubles
- installation of a ceiling lamp - 450 rubles
- installation of an indoor socket box (brick wall, drilling, installation) - 200 rubles
- installation of a single-key indoor switch - 150 rubles
- installation of a two-pole circuit breaker - 300 rubles
- installation of a grounding contact - 120 rubles
- installation of wires open up to 2 meters (1 meter - 35 rubles), For example, let's take 2 meters- 70 rubles
- installation of wires openly above 2 meters (1 meter - 50 rubles), for example, let's take 8 meters - 400 rubles
- wall gating 8 meters (1 meter - 120 rubles) - 960 rubles
TOTAL: 3400 rubles
*The calculation was made for hidden electrical wiring.
With development, humanity has invented an irreplaceable thing: electricity, without it it is difficult to imagine modern life. Thanks to this, in addition to sockets, light switches are always installed in every room. A switch is a structure that mechanically closes/opens an electrical circuit, allowing the light bulb to turn on or off.
Division of switches into types
Before we discuss the topic of connecting the switch, let’s consider what options are provided by the manufacturers. Household switches are divided into several types:
With one on/off key
This type of switch is more primitive in structure. It contains a functioning module with a set of contacts; fastenings made in the form of metal antennae; frame; movable power key.
The main components are usually made of metal to improve contact. Sometimes you can find switch housings made from ceramics. Such elements are more resistant to electrical loads and can withstand about 32 A. But more often the switch body is made of plastic. Such raw materials are cheaper than ceramics, but the load on them should be lower (no more than 16 A).
This type of switch is selected if the lighting fixture has one lamp. It is possible to distinguish a subtype in switches with one key: backlit switches. The housing contains an LED light that helps locate the switch in a completely dark room.
When are switches used? If the light sources in the room do not require connection directly to the network using a cord, then a wall switch is installed in it. They are designed for chandeliers on the ceiling or lamps on the wall
Before choosing a switch, you need to consider the humidity in the room. For rooms with high humidity, it is worth selecting switches with a higher degree of protection (IP 40).
Switches with multiple keys (usually their number does not exceed three)
In general, the structure of such switches is similar to the structure of single-key switches. The main difference is that an individual key closes/opens its individual lighting device. For large rooms, switches with a large number of keys have been developed. Examples of such switches can be studied in photographs in specialized literature or on the Internet.
Wall-mounted switches
Such switches are clearly visible and are used if the electrical wiring goes over the wall.
In-wall switches
This type of switch is installed in modern apartments where the electrical wiring is hidden in the wall. These switches fit harmoniously into the interior and do not attract attention.
The switch - remote control - has also now become widespread. Modern lighting devices come together with remote controls. They allow you to adjust the desired flow and shade of light.
The remote controls have the function of turning on all the light bulbs of a lighting fixture or, conversely, creating a subdued atmosphere by extinguishing some of the light bulbs.
How to choose a switch location
Before you begin installing the switch, you should decide on its location. It is necessary to weigh all the pros and cons of its location. The most common location of switches is near the door. This is convenient when you can control the light in the entire room when leaving or entering. Other options are also possible. For example, switches are located at the head of the bed.
Before you begin installing the switch, you need to understand its connection diagram. Regulatory regulations for installation should be taken into account: the switch cannot be located closer than sixty cm from the shower stall and at least half a meter from the gas branch.
According to them, you also need to step back about 10 cm from the doors and almost a meter from the floor. In rooms with high humidity and large temperature changes, you should avoid installing switches.
Instructions for connecting a switch indoors
Before starting installation work, you need to study the instructions for connecting switches and prepare all the necessary equipment: a knife, pliers, a screwdriver, a voltage indicator, gloves and glasses. After the tools are prepared, you can begin installation work.
The very first thing that needs to be done is to turn off the power to the apartment. In this case, it is necessary to de-energize the entire apartment, and not just the room in which the switch is planned to be installed.
Now it’s worth using a voltage indicator and inspecting all the wiring to confirm its safety and not receive a current discharge.
The second stage when installing a switch is the immediate preparation of the place where the switch will be located. This place should be thoroughly cleaned of the paint layer, dust and dirt should be removed. They will not allow the switch to be installed properly or leveled.
If the switch is after purchase, you must first unscrew it using a screwdriver. It is necessary to free the box from internal components. This will facilitate the process of connecting electrical wires to the closing contacts of the switch.
We proceed directly to connecting the wiring to the switch. Using pliers, you should remove unnecessary wires, leaving no more than fifteen cm. This size of wires is enough to conveniently mount the switch. If the wiring exceeds the specified length, they will not be hidden inside the breaker box.
Once you have removed the unnecessary wires, you can begin to perform a rather important step. Using pliers, you need to strip about two cm of the wiring, removing the outer insulation.
If the gap between the cleaned wires is made larger, there is a possibility of a short circuit during operation of the switch. To make it easier to connect the wires to the contacts, it is better to bend them.
Direct connection of the switch
You can learn how to properly connect a switch from various literature sources. It is worth noting that inside the wiring there are wires of different colors. Usually this is a brown wire that is responsible for the phase. And the yellow-green wire, which is responsible for grounding. When connecting wires to contacts, it is important not to confuse them.
You can distinguish the difference when installing switches with one or more keys. Basic rule: the brown wire is connected to the disconnector with the L symbol.
The placed wires must be clamped with the screws that come with each switch. Be sure to check the reliability of the attached wires. If the ends of the wires are not tightened enough, the contact will be interrupted and the switch will not function.
The span of connected wiring should be folded so that they fit in the switch box. When arranging the wires, you need to leave room for the switch itself to fit. By attaching the switch body, it can be lightly secured with screws. They do not need to be screwed in all the way; first, the switch needs to be aligned.
You can level the switch using a level that you prepared in advance. After the switch is aligned, be sure to tighten the screws tighter. The main thing is not to cut the thread on the screw head; if necessary, this will prevent its dismantling.
The final stage is the process of installing the housing and the switch key. This procedure is performed by hand, lightly pressing these parts to the places where they were at the very beginning.
If, after turning on the electricity in the apartment, the light in the room turns on using the installed switch, then the connection was successful.
Thanks to this detailed article, you can be convinced that installing the switch yourself is quite possible. The main thing is to prepare everything and carefully follow the instructions.
Photo - instructions on how to connect the switch yourself
To control household electric lighting sources, various devices are used, the most common of all is the switch. This is a simple device located on the wall and connected to wires. The design of the products is different, but the internal circuit diagram of the single models is the same.
In our material we will tell you how to connect a switch with one key in order to quickly make repairs. For convenience, several connection methods will be given with thematic photographs clearly demonstrating the installation process.
A switch is a simple mechanical (less often electronic) device for contact closing/opening an electrical circuit to turn on/off lighting fixtures.
We will touch on the design features and installation of the simplest models - single-key switches.
They consist of 4 main parts:
- worker node– metal base with contacts and push-button drive;
- fasteners– legs or antennae made of metal connected to a metal plate;
- decorative design– panels or frames;
- dynamic part– plastic key.
Some parts, mainly internal ones, are made of metal, such as galvanized steel; external decorative trim is usually made of safe plastic. Ceramic elements are also available that can withstand loads of up to 32 A, while plastic is rated for 16 A.
Reasons for installing a single key switch include:
Image gallery
There are many applications for double switches. They are usually connected to chandeliers in order to be able to adjust the lighting intensity: turn on a certain group of lamps, one lamp, or all at the same time. Another common application: lighting separate bathrooms or connecting a hood and lighting.
In private homes, a switch with two keys often turns on the lighting outside at the entrance or inside in the hallway. Where lighting is provided to a balcony or loggia, a double switch would also be appropriate so as not to install 2 separate switches for each zone in the room. Zoning rooms using lighting or design accents is becoming increasingly popular, and double switches are also often used to implement such tasks.
Connecting objects to a switch with two keys is quite within the capabilities of the average business person. This does not require supernatural knowledge and skills. All you need is to have certain equipment and understand all stages of the work.
First you need to check the wires, that is, test which one is phase. Using an indicator screwdriver it is not difficult to do this: upon contact with a phase in the screwdriver, the signal LED will light up. Mark the wire so that when performing further operations you do not confuse it with the neutral one.
Before you begin installing the switch, you must secure your work area.
If we are talking about a chandelier, you should turn off the power to the wires coming out of the ceiling. When the type of wires has been determined and marked, you can turn off the power (to do this, use the appropriate circuit breaker in the panel) and begin work on installing a double switch.
Decide in advance and ensure that you have connecting material for the wires. Typically used:
- self-clamping terminals;
- screw terminals;
- caps or electrical tape for hand-twisted wires.
The most convenient and reliable way is fixation with self-clamping terminals. Screw clamps can weaken over time, and electrical tape tends to lose elasticity and dry out. Because of this, the reliability of the connection may weaken significantly over time. Self-clamping terminals provide a reliable, strong connection.
To perform all operations accurately, you must have the following tools:
- 2 screwdrivers - flat and Phillips;
- assembly or stationery knife or other device for stripping insulation;
- pliers or side cutters;
- construction level.
Preparing wires for correct installation
Depending on the type of device being connected, preparing the wires may involve various manipulations. 
If you are installing a chandelier with 2 wires coming from each lamp, you can connect it according to your preferences. Modern lighting equipment often has ready-made wires already connected in a certain way. In this case, to change the options for lamp combinations, you will have to disassemble the base of the lamp. If this is of great importance to you, pay attention to the wires at the time of purchase to avoid unpleasant surprises when connecting the device.
There are usually three wires coming out of the installation box. It is necessary that their length does not exceed 10 cm. This is quite enough for comfortable work. If the wires are longer, just cut them. Next, you should strip the ends of these wires of insulation by about 1-1.5 cm and connect them to the corresponding terminals of the switch.
The phase is connected to the terminal marked “L”, and the remaining wires are connected depending on which switch key you want to use for a specific section of the lamp or individual devices.If you have a modular type switch, that is, consisting of two separate single-key components, you must provide power to both parts. To do this, make a jumper from a small wire and install it between the two halves of the switch.
Connection diagram for two-button switch
A two-key switch consists of 2 single keys assembled in one housing. The neutral and ground wires approach the sections directly, and the phase passes through the switch. Thus, when the corresponding key is activated, the circuit is broken, that is, the phase suitable for a certain section of the device or a separate device. 
Connecting the switch to the distribution box is described above. It is often unclear how to carry out electrical installations in a location. There may be several options here, depending on whether the number of wires on the ceiling matches the number of wires coming out of the chandelier.
- The simplest option: equal number of wires from the ceiling and chandelier (mostly 2 by 2, or 3 by 3). Here you just need to twist the corresponding wires that you previously rang and labeled. Connect the neutral wire from the ceiling to the zero of the chandelier, and the phase wire from the ceiling to the chandelier phase and always to the switch itself. Installation is complete.
- In case There are three wires coming out of the ceiling, and you have more of them on your chandelier, you need to distribute the pairs into sections in advance and connect each of them to only one of the phase wires. Both groups must certainly be connected to the neutral wire.
- If you find that 4 wires coming out of the ceiling, which means one of them is grounding. Its presence is typical for modern buildings. If your chandelier has a similar wire, then you just need to twist them together. If not, then the wire coming from the ceiling must be insulated. Protective grounding wires can be recognized by their characteristic yellow-green color and the “PE” marking.
A common problem is that the breaker does not operate the way you expected it to. For example, when you press the first key, a certain section does not work, but when you press the second, all lamps work simultaneously. That is, there is no distribution of lamps to switch keys.
Another option: when you turn on the chandelier, only some of the lamps work, and all of them do not light up even when both switch keys are pressed.
Starting with the choice of assembly location, size, and ending with connecting all the components according to the diagram - this is the secret of how to make it. Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions.
Is it possible to connect a three-phase motor to a 220 volt network? The article will provide an opportunity to understand how high-power devices work in single-phase networks.
And finally, the saddest option: the switch does not work at all.
Most likely, when connecting, you did not match certain wires and connected them in the wrong order. Perhaps you neglected to check the wires on the ceiling and in the junction box, and relied only on the colors and markings. And in no case should you do this, since when installing wiring, non-compliance with marking standards is very common.
In order to find the reason, you need to go back to the beginning of the installation and carefully follow all the steps.
Armed with an indicator, be sure to ring all the wires and label them. If you suspect a wire malfunction, contact a specialist. If there are no problems with the wiring, re-fasten the marked wires according to the diagram and be extremely careful.
Thus, you should follow simple recommendations so as not to encounter problems when performing electrical work:
- before starting work, be sure to turn off the electricity at the work site and make sure that no one accidentally turns it on at the most inopportune moment;
- You must always act according to the instructions and do not neglect deep comprehensive preparation: check and mark the conductors, properly clean them and prepare them for subsequent operations;
- it is necessary to arm yourself with tools, at least a minimum of devices is required, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid problems with the reliability and strength of the connections being made.
Video on the installation diagram of a double switch
For more detailed information on how to connect a two-key switch, we recommend watching the video: