Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the apartment step by step. Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment - rules, main stages, plan diagram

Electrical wiring in an apartment is one of the main stages of repair and construction work, which allows for reliable and uninterrupted power supply to the entire room in accordance with the current requirements of PUE, PTB and PTEEP.

Since not only your personal safety, but also the safety of your property depends on the quality of doing the wiring in your apartment yourself, it is better to entrust this service to a highly specialized electrical installation organization with many years of experience. If you think that you can handle this matter on your own, we recommend that you read this article in full, which will describe in detail:

1. Type of cable and wire products for each task.
2. Recommended distance to sockets and switches from the floor.
3. Number of circuit breakers or residual current devices to protect consumers.
4. Nuances when chipping walls.
5. Method of laying cable and wire products.
6. Recommended number of outlets in each room.
7. The best manufacturers of electrical products and much, much more.

Where is the best place to start electrical installation work in an apartment?

As a rule, electrical installation in an apartment begins with the planning stage. What does it mean? In order to correctly replace electrical wiring, installing new wires is not enough. It is primarily necessary to determine the installation locations of sockets, switches, household appliances, and so on.

If you do not properly arrange communications, it will be very unpleasant when, after completion of construction or repair and finishing work, some sockets are located behind cabinets or a bed, and switches are located either too high or too low.

Of course in such situations there is a way out! This is connecting extension cords, but a natural question arises - why then was it necessary to replace the electrical wiring if you constantly trip over them?

The first thing you need to do before starting a renovation is to develop a plan or order a design project. In this plan, you need to outline where you plan to place cabinets, sofas, armchairs, beds, cabinets, household appliances, and so on.

Basic Rules for a Good Plan

1. All sockets should be located at a height of 30 cm from the finished floor.
2. Switches must be located no lower than 90 cm from the floor.
3. Sockets above the work surface in the kitchen are located at a height of 80–100 cm from the floor.
4. A minimum of 4–5 sockets are required on the work surface to connect household appliances (processors, mixers, blenders, etc.).
5. In the kitchen, it is necessary to additionally provide sockets for an extractor hood, refrigerator, washing machine, gas or electric stove, extractor hood, and heated floors (if available).
6. In the bathroom, near the mirror, it is recommended to install 2-3 sealed sockets for connecting a hair dryer, electric razor, epilator, and so on.
7. Also in the bathroom it is necessary to provide sockets for connecting a boiler, heated floor, washing machine, and water purification filters.
8. In places where the TV will be installed (living room, bedroom, children's room, etc.), it is recommended to install 4-5 sockets, 2-3 of which will supply equipment (TV, tuner, game consoles, etc.) 1 will serve to connect the Internet cable "and 1 more for connecting the antenna cable.
9. Sockets in the bedroom should be placed 2 on each side of the bed for easy connection of charging a mobile TV or a lamp on the bedside table.
10. Also in bedrooms, it is recommended to install sconces with a switch near the outlet on each side of the bed to create convenience when reading books.
11. It is better to place the switches on the right side of the door if you are right-handed and on the left if you are left-handed.

And so the plan for arranging sockets and switches was ruined. What to do next? Next we need to select the type of protection.

Selecting the type of protection

According to modern electrical safety requirements, each installation of electrical wiring in an apartment must be done in such a way that each wire in the electrical panel is protected by a separate circuit breaker or RCD (we’ll talk about this a little later). What does it mean? Let's look at a specific example.

An example of calculating protection for a one-room apartment

Let's say you have a wiring diagram for a one-room apartment. According to this diagram:

• In the room: 5 sockets for TV, 4 sockets (2 pieces each) near the bed, 1 switch and 1 air conditioner.
• In the kitchen: 1 electric stove, 1 air conditioner, 4 sockets on the work surface, 1 socket for the hood, 4 sockets for the TV (2 electrical and 2 for the Internet and antenna) and 1 socket for the refrigerator and 1 switch (double-key or single-key).
• In the bathroom: 2 sockets near the washbasin, 1 socket for the washing machine, 1 socket for the boiler, 1 socket (or rather just phase and zero) for the heated floor and 1 switch.
• In the corridor: one socket and 2 pass-through switches.

According to the requirements of DBN and PTEEP, each cable must have its own protection using RCDs (sometimes they are replaced by circuit breakers). Based on these standards, the following number of RCDs (AV) must be installed in the electrical panel:

• In the room: 2 16 A RCDs, one of which will protect the air conditioner, the second a socket group and one 10 A circuit breaker to protect the lighting circuits.
• In the kitchen: one 16–32 A RCD (depending on the consumer’s power) to protect the electric stove and oven, one 16 A RCD for the socket group, one 10 A circuit breaker for the lighting circuits.
• In the bathroom: one RCD for a washing machine, one RCD for a boiler, one RCD for a socket group, one RCD for a heated floor, one AV for lighting circuits.
• In the corridor: one RCD for a socket group and 1 AV for lighting circuits.

Based on the above calculations, we will need an electrical panel for 24 modules, 20 of which will be occupied by an RCD and 4 AV lighting (if the input circuit breaker will be installed in a switchboard on a flight of stairs and overvoltage protection will not be installed in the electrical panel (Barrier, ZUBR, etc. If the input AV and surge protection are installed in this panel, then it should have 36 modules (7 modules will be backup).

What is the difference between RCD (residual current device) and AV (circuit breaker)

The main difference between these devices is the method of operation. What does it mean? In order not to consider in detail the operating principle and characteristics of each device, I would like to say one thing: circuit breakers are triggered only in the event of a short circuit in the controlled section of the electrical wiring, and RCDs are triggered when the insulation of the wires is broken or a leakage current occurs on the metal body of various household equipment.

To make it more clear, a residual current device serves to protect a person from electric shock, and AVs simply protect household equipment.

Why is it worth connecting your washing machine and boiler to a separate RCD?

Since the main consumer of electricity in both the boiler and the washing machine is the electric heating element, which is in contact with water, sooner or later it will break through to the housing, and if it is not powered from a separate RCD, then the light will go out in the entire apartment.

Selection of cable and wire products

According to the requirements of regulatory documentation DBN, PTEEP, PUE and PTB:

1. To power power outlet groups, a boiler, a washing machine, an air conditioner, and hoods, it is necessary to install a VVGng 3x2.5 mm cable or a PVSng 3x2.5 mm cable.
2. To connect an electric stove and oven, you need a VVGng 3x4 mm cable or a PVSng 3x4 mm cable.
3. For lighting circuits, VVGng 3x1.5 mm or PVSng 3x1.5 mm will be sufficient.
4. If you are replacing the wiring in a Khrushchev building, the input cable from the power electrical panel on the flight of stairs to the electrical distribution panel of the apartment should be made with a VVGng (PVSng) 3x4 cable, provided that you do not have an electric stove, or with a VVGng (PVSng) 3x6 cable if it is installed in the kitchen oven or electric stove.

What is the difference between PVSng and VVGng

The only difference between these brands is the method of execution. The VVGng cable (for example, 3x2.5 mm) consists of 3 monolithic cores with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, and the PVS cable consists of 3 cores that are woven from many small copper wires.

What does the “ng” marking in the cable name mean?

The addition “ng” means that the cable does not support combustion. Thus, if a short circuit occurs in the electrical wiring, it will go out on its own, thereby protecting your apartment from fire.

How to install cable and wire products (electrical cables)

1. If a short circuit occurs in the electrical wiring, you can replace the damaged cable without dismantling the finish, since it will be easy to remove the cable from the corrugation and replace it with a new one.
2. If the electrical wiring in the apartment is made in corrugation, then the cable has additional protection, and even if your neighbors flood you, the electrical wiring will remain undamaged since the corrugation is sealed.
3. When pulling the cable through the metal profiles on which the drywall is attached, only the corrugation may be damaged, and the protective sheath of the cable will remain undamaged.

How to unplug electrical wiring in separate rooms

Let's look at an example of doing electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands. Let's say you have already assembled an electrical panel and ran cables from it to the rooms. However, what to do next if 2 or 3 cables come into the room (lighting, sockets and air conditioning), and 3-6 cables come out of the sockets (depending on the number of sockets)?

To do this, it is necessary to install a distribution box. In this electrical product, all cables are connected to each other using welding, soldering or special clamps (for example, WAGO).

Important! If you connect a socket group, then according to the marking and correct switching in the electrical cabinet, the brown wire is the phase, the blue wire is the common zero and the green and yellow wire is the ground.

What is prohibited to do when replacing electrical wiring in an apartment

1. Connect wires outside the distribution wiring.
2. Connect the wires using twists (since over time the contact in the twists will deteriorate and a fire may occur).
3. Break the seals off the electricity meter (if it is installed inside the apartment).
4. Chaining walls in panel houses. It is allowed to make only vertical grooves in the plaster layer or to lay electrical wiring in a corrugation behind a false plasterboard wall.
5. Carry out electrical wiring repairs in the apartment using a truncated cable (TU marking). For example, if on a cable with the TU brand it is written that the cable cross-section is 3x2.5 mm, then in reality it can be in the range of 1.5–1.8 mm.
6. Install cable and wire products closer than 10–15 cm to window and door openings.
7. Use non-waterproof equipment in bathrooms. For installation in bathrooms, the degree of protection of sockets must be at least IP54.
8. Install electrical wiring near gas or water supply pipes.
9. Connect to AB 16 A a cable with a cross-section of less than 2.5 mm², since the cable will heat up and lose insulation, and the circuit breaker will not work.
10. Make horizontal grooves.
11. Connect equipment directly without any protection (AV, RCD, etc.).
12. Violate the integrity of the load-bearing wall structure.

conclusions

Replacing electrical wiring in a Khrushchev house is a responsible process that requires certain skills and knowledge, since the safety of not only you and your family, but also all household equipment and fixtures depends on the quality of its implementation. And if you want the electrical wiring in a one-room apartment to last at least 20–25 years, then it is better to entrust this matter to proven electrical installation organizations.

Video on the topic

Electricity is a serious and responsible matter. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private home is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to proven specialists.

Action plan

Electrical wiring in a private house is done before finishing work begins. The frame of the house is out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Determination of the input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of a scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that the technical specifications will not always determine your declared power; most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and components, purchase of meters, machines, cables, etc.
• . Performed by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - overhead or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install electricity into the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets and switches.
• Ground loop design and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining a certificate.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan; each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start by obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the electrical network and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, you will probably be able to build a wall on which you can put a machine and a counter.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to energy consumption standards for a private house, the maximum consumption per house for a single-phase network can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380V network are much stricter: higher voltage, greater chance of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think of heating it with electricity, you are better off using 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for electrifying your home. Take a scale plan of the house, and draw where the equipment will be located, figure out where to place the sockets and switches. In this case, you need to take into account where any large-sized furniture will be located, and where it can be rearranged, so that sockets and switches are not placed in these areas.

All lighting fixtures will need to be drawn on the plan: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, in the kitchen there is a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also equipment that turns on periodically. All this is plotted on the plan, and the optimal location of the switching points is determined. The same approach applies to each of the rooms.

Determination of total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be installed in your home, add up its power. The average power can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there are, take into account starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the reserve to the found amount. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted to obtain permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are given the stated power, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private home.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch runs electrics to lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule; it may be more convenient or expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out in a separate group.

Then the sockets are divided into groups. How many you can “put” on one wire depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power supply line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you may have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - this is where the equipment is most abundant and powerful too: for an electric boiler and electric stove, separate lines are absolutely needed. It is better to “plant” the refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, and washing machine separately. Not so powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

There are usually two to four lines going into the rooms: in a modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the electrical network. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets into which you will need to plug in your computer, router, TV, and phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you intend to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you will need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a dacha, for example, then there may be two or three groups: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

Based on the number of groups received, the number of machines on the distribution panel in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). The number of machines in it is also selected based on the number of groups: there is a separate machine for each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to install more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The installation location of the electrical panel is not regulated by regulations. There are only restrictions regarding the distance from the pipelines; it must be at a distance of at least 1 meter. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many people place the panel in: since it’s a technical room, it makes sense to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities do not make any claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no claims.

Selection of cables and components

Today's standard wiring diagram for a private house includes two circuit breakers. One - input - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter are sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the panel. The operation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the circuit breaker installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in the event of an emergency, you will not need to crawl under the roof.

If the estimated load is less than 15 kW, the circuit is standard - RCD + automatic circuit breaker, meter and then division into groups. For higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer; its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they are required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not supported by law; it is simply easier for the electricity service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a meter and machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection must be less - IP-44, and accordingly the price will be lower.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private home, it is better to use cables rather than wires. Their insulation is at least twice as good, therefore the laying requirements are not so stringent, and they are safer to use. All internal wiring in a private house must be done with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the cores are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is rigid, more likely to break, and more difficult to work with. If you install electrical wiring in a private home yourself and lack experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used inside wooden houses at all.

Determination of core cross-section

Once you have decided on the material, you can select the diameter of the cable cores. This is done depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the selection of the cross-section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross-section of the core is selected according to the current or power of all consumers connected to one circuit breaker. This is where your home electrification plan, where you have outlined consumer groups, will come in handy once again. You calculate the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross-section of the cores according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. The found power of all consumers connected to the group will be compared (it is easier to find and calculate). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. Follow this line to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The number indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, designate wires of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color you designated what). After the diameter has been determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, and a margin of 20-25% is added to the found figures. You have calculated the wiring for your home.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrical wiring in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation. In houses of less flammable materials, any insulation can be used. The main thing is that it is intact, without cracks, sagging or other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, bathhouse, etc.).

Selection of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers they are standard. You need to know that they exist:

• External - when the body sticks out from the wall. They are easier to install: a backing is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it on top. But few people use such models now, even at their dachas. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
• Internal. A recess is made in the wall for the electrical part, and an installation box is installed and walled up in it. The electrical part of the socket or switch is inserted inside this box.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most often used today. They are decorated in different styles and painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are installed in white.

Read how to connect pass-through switches (turn on/off lights from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends provide for hidden wiring. It can be laid in specially made grooves in the walls - grooves. After laying and securing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing them with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls will then be lined with sheet materials - plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard, etc., then grooves are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The shell with laid cables is attached with clamps to the structural elements.

When installing, you need to remember that the internal electrical wiring of a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

• laying wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
• all connections must be made in ;
• horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from which the cable runs down to the socket or switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during repairs or wiring upgrades. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole or hammer a nail. The main task is not to get caught in the cable.

A large percentage of electrical wiring problems come from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

Still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Installing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires are connected to each other, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Once connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to sign the machine immediately: it will be easier to navigate.

After finishing the electrical wiring throughout the house and checking everything yourself, they call electrical laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and based on the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it you will not be given permission to put into operation.

From this article you will learn:

• Why do you need to do your own electrical wiring in a new building?
• What requirements must electrical wiring in a new building meet?
• What type of electrical wiring can be done in a new building?
• How to choose cables for electrical wiring in a new building

If you have become the happy owner of an apartment in a new building, then you will have trouble finishing it. An important stage of repair is the installation of electrical wiring. Today it is allowed for apartment owners to carry out electrical installation work. Some construction companies, in order to save money, allow owners to install electrical wiring themselves. We will figure out how to ensure that the electrical wiring in the apartment is done efficiently, and how to do it yourself.

Why is it worth replacing the electrical system in a new building?

If the developer installs the electrical wiring in the apartment himself, then most likely the owner of the home will redo it. After all, everyone has different requirements for functionality, and everyone does what is convenient for them.

What problems can you encounter when the electrical wiring in a new building has already been completed?

1. Since automation is cheap, no one can guarantee that the network will be 100% protected.
2. The cable being laid does not meet quality standards; it is good if it meets the specifications. Its cross-section will be insufficient, and the insulating layer will be too thin. It may happen that the inner insulating layer sticks to the outer one, and when cutting the cable they are removed together.
3. When electrical wiring in a new building is carried out in a hidden way, the cable is extended by twisting. No one can guarantee that such wiring, hidden in a wall or floor, will last a long time and that a fire will not occur.
4. To save cable, the grooves hidden under the plaster are laid diagonally. All this leads to the fact that the cable can be broken, for example, if the owner of the apartment wants to install a sconce or drive a nail in this place. Electrical routes must be made in a straight line, making 90-degree turns.
5. The height at which sockets and switches are placed will vary. When you get into your home, take a measuring tape and see for yourself.

All adjustments made to the electrical wiring diagram (if its characteristics change) relate to the reconstruction of the home. Therefore, changes will have to be coordinated with local governments. For example, permission will be needed when you want to lay a cable of a different section, replace a machine, install a new electrical distribution panel, connect another power line, and so on.

You will receive an answer only after 45 days. In this case, you may be denied reorganization. Start from the moment you provide all the required documentation. The authorized body that carries out the approval, after the decision is made, will issue (or send by mail) a confirming document within 3 days.

Based on this document, the owner of the apartment has the right to carry out reconstruction of the home.

You are now allowed to change the electrical wiring in a new building. But do not forget that added power lines, as well as new laying characteristics, are noted in the technical data sheet of the facility.

Electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building should be made of copper cable, which is covered with an insulating layer. It is prohibited to use an aluminum cable: when you turn on several powerful electrical appliances at once, it will not withstand.

The 7th edition of the PUE rules states that electrical wiring in a new building must be made using a three-core copper cable, with one of the cores providing grounding.

There are two types of grounding, the difference is the zero separation point:

• TN-S system (working zero N);
• TN-C-S system (protective zero PE).

A three-core cable extends from the panel in the house: phase - L, neutral - N and ground - PE.

Grounding is necessary to protect occupants from electric shock. In addition, if there is a grounding conductor, then the electrical equipment will not burn out. When you do electrical wiring in a new building, do not forget about grounding. If you connect the grounding conductor poorly, it will break. Then, during a phase breakdown, for example, on a refrigerator, all electrical equipment in your home that is connected to the network will be under extreme voltage.

How to eliminate such a situation? Do not twist the wires together. It is recommended to use special terminal blocks that differ in the way the cable is clamped. Or you can solder the connection, placing it in a junction box, socket box, electrical panel, that is, so that if necessary, you can easily reach them.

If the apartment has old type wiring - made of aluminum, you should dismantle it and make it copper. Is it possible to install new wiring? Then use terminal blocks to connect the copper cable to the aluminum cable.

• Where are sockets and switches located?

It is prohibited to place sockets and switches wherever you please. This point is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 23-05-95.

So, the switch should be located no more than 10 cm from the doorway (on the side where the door handle is located). At what height to install is up to you, choose the most convenient option. However, in children's organizations the switch must be located strictly at a height of 180 cm from the floor.

According to SNiP requirements, if the room is no more than 6 square meters, then one socket can be installed. However, it is prohibited to connect electrical appliances (that consume a lot of electricity) using portable devices. Therefore, it is better to immediately install so many sockets that there are enough to connect all the electrical equipment. It is recommended to make more sockets in the kitchen area.

We choose special sockets that will be located in rooms with high humidity, with protection from water. They are located at a distance of at least 60 cm from sinks, bathtubs, and toilets. They must be connected via an RCD. Choose the location of the outlets so that it is convenient for you to use them. Distance from the floor, windows and doorways - from 10 cm, from the ceiling - 20 cm.

Branches to sockets and switches must be 50 cm away from the gas pipeline, and 4 cm from other communications.

• What types of electrical wiring are there?

According to SNiP requirements, electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building is carried out horizontally or vertically. You can install the wiring:

1. in a hidden way- if it is important for you to protect yourself and preserve the interior. The cable is laid in the floor, in the voids between concrete slabs, and also in the walls. If the wall is wooden, then the cable is laid in a special protective sleeve to reduce the risk of fire;
2. open method- this way it will be easier to carry out electrical wiring in a new building. Wires can be laid in channels that are mounted on the surface of the walls. The advantage of this method is that you can quickly get to the wire to repair it. However, the interior of the home will be damaged.

You can carry out electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building by combining the two methods described above. For example, the main line will be hidden in the floor or ceiling. In this case, the wire leading to sockets and switches is laid in an open way. The combined method is used infrequently, usually for installing wiring in utility rooms.

Most often, electrical wiring in a new building is carried out in a hidden way. However, it is worth considering how you will replace the cable if a breakdown occurs.

It is best to place the cable in a corrugated sleeve. This way you can easily take it out and replace it with a new one. In this case, the finishing coating of the walls will not be damaged. The corrugated hose is laid in channels that are cut with a grinder or a grinder. Please note that according to SNiP, it is prohibited to deform metal reinforcement when cutting channels on reinforced concrete slabs. In addition, the wire should not be placed at the joints of panel slabs.

• Automatic machines for protection

When carrying out electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building, do not forget about the circuit breakers. They are located in the electrical distribution panel according to the following rules:

• if the machine is 16 A, a lighting line is connected to it;
• 20 A circuit breaker - socket line;
• The 25 A circuit breaker is designed for connecting high-power household appliances. It is necessary to draw a separate line to the electrical panel.

In addition to automatic machines, RCDs should be installed on all electrical equipment. It will work if a current leak of 100 mA occurs. We connect all lines separately to an RCD, which is designed for leakage from 10 to 30 mA.

Planning electrical wiring in a new building

Don't want the network to be overloaded while using household electrical appliances? To avoid additional damage to the walls, professionals advise, before starting installation work, to develop an electrical wiring diagram for an apartment in a new building. The wiring and connections are shown schematically below.

Electricians do a wiring diagram in a new building like this: first, lighting fixtures and powerful electrical equipment are marked on the drawing. Then, having calculated the approximate power, a wiring diagram is selected, the cable cross-section is determined, and circuit breakers are selected.

• Power block

This includes household electrical appliances that consume a lot of electricity, such as an oven, electric oven, boiler, split system. To connect equipment to the network, a separate high-power line is installed, which is protected using automatic machines. This is the only way to ensure proper safety of using household appliances in your home. In addition, if you need to repair the electrical network, you can do it quickly and easily.

• Lighting block

How the lighting part can be designed:

• one group;
• 2-3 groups of lighting fixtures.

The first method is suitable for small rooms where the load on the network will be small. The second type of scheme is used most often. The connection diagram for several groups is shown below.

When, in addition to lighting fixtures, the room contains power supplies and transformers, they should be connected through a separate electrical circuit using an individual circuit breaker.

• Large electrical equipment

The kitchen area is where most electrical equipment is located. And most often, electrical appliances work even when you are not using them (for example, a refrigerator, electric stove, bread maker, and so on). To ensure that they function properly and the power grid is not overloaded, lay a separate line. In this case, the cable must have a large cross-section, and the circuit breaker must be of such power that it can withstand the maximum voltage for your conditions.

Electrical wiring in a new building begins with the installation of a distribution panel. It will be supplied with electricity from the electricity supplier. The panel is usually located at the entrance to a country house, on the staircase of a high-rise building or in the apartment itself.

As for the apartment panel, electricity from the input goes to a meter, which records how much energy was spent. The current is then sent to outlets, switches and lighting fixtures.

To protect electrical circuits, special automatic installations are used. They are embedded into the circuit in the panel in front of the cable that leads to the outlet or switch.

How much energy was spent by each electrical appliance is recorded in the panel, after which it is calculated by an electric meter, which passes the entire load through itself. This explains why the mains of the panel are made of cables with a large cross-section: this is the only way to prevent network overload and avoid damage to the insulating layer.

The wires going from the panel to the energy consumers may have a small cross-section, because they experience less load. However, the cross-section of the core and the material from which it is made should be chosen carefully. Special reference literature defines the rules for using cables and the permissible load.

There are three ways to complete an electrical wiring diagram for an apartment in a new building:

1. Loop (buses) - the main line is installed through distribution boxes, from which branches go to energy consumers.
2. Radial method - current is supplied to each consumer through a separate cable, it goes directly, there are no breaks or connections from the circuit breaker.
3. Combined method - combines the two previous methods.

All electrical wiring diagrams in a new building are not similar to each other, since many designs of various models of electrical devices and wires (cables) are used. They are installed according to standard or specially developed projects using one technology or another.

1. We supply current with a loop.

The ends of the cables must be connected inside the junction boxes. To switch them, you will have to complete a wiring diagram.

As a guide, you can take the diagram that is used in a high-rise building for electrical wiring in a 1-room apartment.

The switchboard located in the entrance contains a meter, as well as 2 machines: one for the socket group, the second for the lighting group. From them cables go in a loop to 3-4 junction boxes:

• for the living room;
• for the kitchen area;
• for the restroom.

Both cables must be laid parallel to the boxes and connected there. Due to the fact that several decades ago the load on the network was small, the wires were used of the same thickness. The wiring was done entirely with aluminum cables with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2. Currently, to create electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building, they use copper wires. We will tell you how to calculate the cross section later.

In the hallway there is a distribution box for the restroom; it is connected by a wire to a socket and a switch with two keys so that you can turn on and off the lights in the bathroom and toilet.

You can also use machine guns for protection. They should be connected separately to sockets and lighting fixtures. Also, consumers can be controlled according to the location where they are located. For example, AB No. 1 will protect electrical appliances in the kitchen area and toilet, No. 2 - appliances in the hallway and living room.

You can supply current to consumers in a different way: part of the electricity will flow through an additional third circuit breaker of the panel. How to properly connect sockets and switches?

• we turn on the lighting in the room, connect all electrical equipment to the network (for example, a floor lamp and a TV);
• we turn off one circuit breaker in the panel, see which lamp or electrical appliance has stopped functioning;
• we record it so as not to forget;
• We do the same with the other circuit breaker and write down what happened;
• We analyze the obtained data.

2. We apply voltage using the radial method.

Here, as in the situation described above, the distribution of energy among the machines occurs with the help of an apartment panel. Machines should be selected so that they are suitable in terms of technical parameters for consumers in terms of the voltage being tested.

A single-piece cable without twists is routed from the machines to the consumers.

Since in the event of a breakdown it is the faulty line that can be disconnected from the network, electrical wiring in a new building in this way will be as reliable as possible. But there are also some nuances:

• a large number of machines;
• the impressive size of the shield in which they will be placed;
• long cable runs.

As a result, in order to create a scheme, as well as implement it, you will have to spend a large sum.

3. We apply voltage using a combined method.

This method combines daisy chain and radial connections, but it takes into account the wiring features in each specific case. Thanks to optimal load selection, costs can be reduced.

It doesn’t matter which electrical wiring diagram you choose for an apartment in a new building, the cable is laid either in a hidden or open way.

With the hidden method, the wire is laid in the walls or floor (under plaster) or in the voids of plasterboard structures.

If the wiring method is open, then the wire is attached to the walls or ceiling using brackets.

Advantages of the hidden method:

• The wire is not visible.
• It is impossible to damage the wiring.
• Even if a short circuit occurs, a thick layer of plaster will prevent a fire from occurring; at most, the wires will melt. If the wiring is open, the finishing coating may catch fire.
• Easy to carry out cosmetic finishing.
• If the electrical wiring in a new building is optimally planned and executed with high quality, it will last for many years.

Flaws:

• You will spend a lot of money and effort creating electrical wiring in a new building using a closed method. You will have to sand and finish the surfaces, and this is an additional expense.
• To replace a damaged wire, you will have to spend a lot of money.
• Hidden wiring is poorly cooled. This means that the permissible voltage is lower (compared to open).

Advantages of the open method:

• Ease of installation.
• Budgeting.
• You can quickly change the electrical circuit in a new building.

Flaws:

• The interior will be ruined.
• Increased risk of wiring damage.
• Fire may occur.

Analyze the advantages and disadvantages of both methods before choosing the right one. However, experts recommend doing electrical wiring in a new building using a closed method.

We will talk about a power cable for household use or a wire designed for a voltage of 220/380 V. We will not consider other types, for example, wires for a TV, computer, for heating, and the like.

1. What is the cable made of, its design features.

The wire can be made of copper or aluminum. Copper cables, compared to aluminum cables (with the same cross-section), have better characteristics in terms of reliability, resistance, current, and they practically do not heat up. Copper cable does not oxidize; it is flexible. Therefore, its service life is long, and the product does not lose its quality over the years.

Important! PUE prohibits the use of aluminum wire for electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building.

The wire can be single-core (single-wire) or multi-core (stranded). Single-core ones will be stiffer, they are practically unbending, especially when the cross-section is large.

In theory, for hidden electrical wiring in a new building, you can use a single-core copper cable. The plaster will protect the conductor. However, in reality no one uses single-wire cable.

Single-core stranded cable is softer and more flexible. It can be bent and rotated as needed. It is recommended to use it both when creating open and hidden types of wiring.

A three-core single-wire cable is the right choice if you need to do electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building.

Important! A cable in which each core is made of one conductor is different from a wire in which the core is made of several conductors. Since there is a high risk of fire, stranded cables are not used when installing wiring in a home.

2. Section.




The unit of measurement is mm 2, the cross-section means the throughput of the wire. So, 1 mm 2 wires made of copper can pass from 8 to 10 A, from aluminum - 5 A. For the wiring to function properly, the cross-section must be large. This is the only way the cable will not overheat and the insulation will not melt due to the increased load. Moreover, if the electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building is of a hidden type, then it will not cool well, so the cross-section should be generous.

Important! Section and diameter are different values. You can measure the diameter yourself using a ruler or caliper, which is more accurate. We substitute the obtained data into a special formula and obtain the cross-sectional area.

Also, do not forget that you should choose a wire for electrical wiring in a new building, rounding up. For example, you did the calculation and it turned out to be 1.4 mm 2. This means that you should choose a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm 2, and not 1 mm 2.

The ideal option is when the cross-section is exactly the same as indicated on the wire. However, in reality it may be less. Since the product is certified not by cross-section, but by resistance, errors are therefore allowed. However, when the data differs too much, it means the product is defective. A professional can determine this simply by looking at the wire. And you can find out the diameter of the core, and then calculate what cross-section the cable has to make sure.

3. Thickness of the insulating layer.

It doesn’t matter whether the wire is single-core or stranded, each of the wires must be covered with an insulating layer of PVC plastic. In addition, polymers and cross-linked polyethylene are used as insulating materials. The insulation thickness must meet quality standards. For example, the insulation thickness of a wire used in an apartment (voltage no more than 660 V, cross-section 1.5–2.5 mm2) should be 0.6 mm. The insulating layer may be slightly smaller, but not less than 0.44 mm.

4. Shell.

The insulated wire strands are covered with a sheath on top. Its task is to protect and fix them. The shell is made of PVC plastic, polymer, it is much thicker than insulation. For example, a multi-core cable has a sheath thickness of 1.8 mm, and a single-core cable has a sheath thickness of 1.4 mm. The thickness may be slightly less than the specified values.

The sheath is always present on wire intended for home use. Even if it has low power and a double insulating layer. Only in this way will the conductor work properly, and the likelihood of a fire will be zero.

5. Marking.

When performing electrical wiring in a new building, pay attention to what is written on the cable. The marking contains all the data so that you can choose the right product. The inscription can be printed in a contrasting color or embossed; it should be clearly visible.

The tag, as well as the electronic catalog, may not contain information about the year of manufacture, as well as about the manufacturer. The standard marking looks like this: VVGng(ozh)-0.66 kV 3x1.5.

This means that in front of you is a three-core copper cable, its cross-section is 1.5 mm 2, the core is single-wire (solid). The insulating layer and shell are made of PVC plastic (PV), the product is flexible (G), non-flammable (ng), voltage - 660 V.

Important! The letter designation of the product brand must begin with the material from which it is made. The letter A stands for aluminum cable. For copper cable, no letter designation is used. This means that all products of the BBN brands are made of copper.

6. Color.

Standard colors can be the following: solid solid color, or a 0.1 cm stripe is applied to the shell throughout the entire product. If you see that the wire is speckled or striped, it means that it was made in a homemade way and there is no guarantee of quality and safety.

7. How the wire is packaged.

The cable can be packaged in a coil or drum. Coils are used for retail sale. Drums - for wholesale. The cable must have a label with the main characteristics of the product.

The cable for electrical wiring in a new building in a coil of 100 meters comes with a tag. However, when they sell you a piece of cable, naturally, no one will give you a tag, but you can ask to see it.

8. Certification.

The presence of a certificate confirms the quality of the product, as well as the fact that the cable is suitable for electrical installation work. In addition, there must be a fire safety certificate. To review these documents, ask your advisor to provide them to you. The documentation must indicate that the wire meets state quality standards. Also pay attention to the expiration date; there should be some time left before it expires. Usually the documents contain technical specifications according to GOST for wires. This means that the product is of high quality.

9. Appearance.

What should a quality cable look like? Please note that there are no dents or kinks, the product should not be squeezed - all this indicates that the wire is defective. The wires may be broken or shorted to each other. Obviously, there is no need to use such a product for electrical wiring in an apartment in a new building. Therefore, carefully inspect the cable before deciding to purchase.

In most cases, apartment renovation is not complete without changing the electrical wiring due to housing redevelopment, physical and moral wear and tear of cables, increased load on the network and other factors.

The scope of work on the reconstruction of electrical wiring depends both on the size of the housing and on the planned degree of equipping each room with household equipment and appliances. Today everyone is accustomed to electricity, but this does not make the consequences of an electric shock any easier - a current of 5-10 A in a 220 V household network is deadly. Therefore, when installing electrical wiring, there are no small details.

Installation of an apartment's electrical network consists of the following steps:

1. Project/scheme development.
2. Calculation of the need for materials and accessories.
3. Marking for grooves and installation of grooves.
4. Laying cables and installing distribution boxes, sockets, switches.
5. Assembling the distribution panel and electrical wiring.

Electrical wiring project

It is impossible to carry out competent installation of the electrical wiring of a modern apartment without a pre-developed power supply diagram, guided only by momentary solutions to emerging issues. Reconstruction or installation of new electrical wiring should be carried out only after a detailed study of all the requirements for the new electrical network. Neglecting these recommendations not only risks equipment failure, but is also dangerous for the residents of the house as a whole. Therefore, before starting electrical installation work, it is necessary to develop a project for the electrical supply of the apartment, and it is better to solve this issue with the help of professionals.

The obligation to develop a project for the electrical supply of an apartment is not enshrined in law, but the procedure for connecting the installed electrical wiring to the power line of the building is regulated by strict rules, including the need for approval.

A professionally completed electrical supply project upon completion of the renovation will become an important annex to the apartment’s registration certificate and will facilitate approval. According to the PUE, the apartment's electrical wiring system is an electrical installation, and therefore its connection to the house line and operation must be carried out in accordance with the general requirements for such equipment:

• the internal wiring of the housing must be compatible with the external electrical network in terms of power;
• The electrical wiring of the apartment should not pose a danger (electrical fire) to the people living in the house.

Approval of the apartment’s internal power supply project is carried out by Rostechnadzor and is mandatory in the following cases:

• when installing electrical wiring in a new building from scratch;
• when reconstructing the existing network in secondary housing with increasing the power allocated to the apartment.

When visiting a property on an application to connect it to the home network, regulatory authorities require a project for the electrical wiring of the apartment completed in accordance with all standards, and the accuracy of this document is an argument in favor of the compliance of the power supply system with all the necessary requirements.

General rules for installing electrical wiring

The document defining the requirements for the installation of electrical wiring and any other electrical equipment is the PUE - “Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations”.

Basic rules for installing an internal electrical network in an apartment:

1. The wiring and connection of cables are carried out inside distribution boxes with careful insulation of the connection points.
   

   Direct connection of dissimilar wires (copper, aluminum, steel) is prohibited.

2. Meters, distribution boxes, sockets and switches must be easily accessible.
3. The switches are mounted on a section of the wall that is not covered by the door leaf in the open position (from the door handle side).
4. There are 2 standards for the height of the switch from the floor - “Soviet” (160 cm) and “European” (90 cm), both are acceptable for use.
5. When connecting the wire from below, sockets are installed at a height of no more than 1 m, focusing on ease of use, when connecting to the network from above - from 1 to 1.5 m. In children's rooms of apartments, for safety reasons, it is allowed to place sockets higher - at a height of 1.8 m, based on the standard for premises of institutions with children.
6. Sockets and switches should be placed no closer than 50 cm from the gas pipeline.
7. The location of wiring sections on the walls should be orthogonal (vertical or horizontal) - this will make it easier to trace cables when performing minor repairs (drilling holes, gating).
8. Electrical wiring should not come into contact with metal elements of building structures (fittings, embedded parts).
9. When installing several cables with single-layer insulation in one groove, each of the wires must be placed in a corrugated cover.
10. Vertical sections of wiring should be located at a distance of at least 10 cm from door and window openings.
11. Horizontal sections of wiring are located no closer than 15 cm from the floor slabs.
12. The distance from the cable to the gas pipeline pipes must be at least 0.4 m.

Calculation of the need for materials and accessories

The required amount of material is determined in two ways:

• according to the wiring diagram - the most accurate;
• for the total area of ​​the apartment - approximate.

When calculating the cable according to the diagram, the total length of the electrical wiring marking is measured, to which 10% is added, plus 20 cm for each socket or switch, plus 50 cm for each lamp and 50 cm for the distribution panel.

To calculate the need for cable based on the area of ​​the apartment, the numerical value of the housing area is multiplied by 4, and the total footage of the wire of all sections is obtained. 40% of the obtained value is the length of the cable for lighting, the remaining 60% is the footage of the power cable.

Cable sections of wiring sections are calculated in relation to the wire material, laying method and maximum load on the line. For the convenience of selecting the required wire, the cross-sectional values ​​are tabulated depending on the specified factors:

Cable cross-section (mm2)	Open installation						Pipe installation
	Copper			Aluminum			Copper			Aluminum
	Current (A)	Power, kWt)		Current (A)	Power, kWt)		Current (A)	Power, kWt)		Current (A)	Power
		220 V	380 V		220 V	380 V		220 V	380 V		220 V	380 V
0,5	11	2,4	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—
0,75	15	3,3	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—
1,0	17	3,7	6,4	—	—	—	14	3	5,3	—	—	—
1,5	23	5	8,7	—	—	—	15	3,3	5,7	—	—	—
2,0	26	5,7	9,8	21	4,6	7,9	19	4,1	7,2	14	3	5,3
2,5	30	6,6	11	24	5,2	9,1	21	4,6	7,9	16	3,5	6
4,0	41	9	15	32	7	12	27	5,9	10	21	4,6	7,9
6,0	50	11	19	39	8,5	14	34	7,4	12	26	5,7	9,8
10,0	80	17	30	60	13	22	50	11	19	38	8,3	14
16,0	100	22	38	75	16	28	80	17	30	55	12	20
25,0	140	30	53	105	23	39	100	22	38	65	14	24
35,0	170	37	64	130	28	49	135	29	51	75	16	28

When calling a conductor a cable or a wire in everyday life, you should know that these are not synonyms:

• wire is a stranded or single- or stranded conductor with or without light tubular insulation;
• a cable is a system of insulated conductors combined into a single structure, which is additionally insulated and, depending on the model, protected by an armored casing.

When choosing a material for electrical wiring of an apartment, you should give preference to cable - a more reliable and durable material.

As for the material used to make the cores, the regulatory documents clearly define the following:

PEU 1.7.34
“...In buildings, cables and wires with copper conductors should be used...”

SP 31-110-2003, clause 14.3
“Internal electrical networks must be flame retardant and made with cables and wires with copper conductors in accordance with the requirements of 2.1 and 7.1 of the PUE.”

Strobe device

In modern housing, open wiring is used very rarely, and internal installation has features that depend on the material of the building structures.

Cables are mounted on brick walls before plastering, securing the wiring with clamps. If such a wall is already plastered, then grooves of the required section are made along the plaster with a preliminary cut on the surface with a grinder.

Wall grooves in panel houses should be done with caution - no deeper than the standard plaster layer of the panel and without damaging the reinforcement of the structures.

In monolithic houses, the wiring is either attached to “black” walls before plastering, or laid in grooves made in old plaster.

Remember: it is prohibited to ditch monolithic enclosing structures!

Cables are routed through the wall between adjacent rooms into a rigid steel channel-sleeve, pre-installed into the structure with obligatory reflection in the project).

Sockets for mounting and distribution boxes are made using a drill with a core drill.

Laying cables and installing distribution boxes, sockets, switches

Cables in grooves are temporarily fixed with gypsum mortar before plastering. The sockets for mounting and distribution boxes are cleaned of dust and wetted. A box is put on the end of the cable, after which it is also temporarily fixed in the socket - with a small amount of gypsum mortar, flush with the wall surface. When sealing cables in grooves, the gaps around the boxes are finally filled and rubbed with cement mortar. Each outlet should be connected directly from the distribution box, without forming one cable for several outlets. When clearing the single-core ends of the cable from insulation for connection to contactors, you should avoid cutting the copper conductors - at the point of such a notch, the conductor becomes brittle.

Installation of the front covers of sockets and switches is carried out after finishing the walls.

The assembly of units in distribution boxes is carried out using special terminal bars - the use of twisted cables is undesirable due to the need for careful insulation and the inconvenience of disassembly.

Assembling the distribution panel and electrical wiring

First of all, the shield itself is purchased:

• external design - easy to install, but requires space;
• internal type - more aesthetic and compact, but installed in a niche.

Then the panel is installed in the apartment, most often in the hallway, after which all the circuit breakers of the wiring lines in the apartment are assembled and installed in it. It is not recommended to have more than one line on one machine.

All electrical wiring lines are “ringed” from node to node, after which they are brought to the panel and connected to the machines.

Upon completion of the connection with the circuit breakers of all lines, one common cable with a cross-section of at least 6 mm2 is routed from the distribution panel to the access panel.

Conclusion

It is possible to install electrical wiring in an apartment yourself. Especially if you have a professionally designed diagram and electrical installation skills. However, it should be remembered that learning electrical installation from your mistakes is life-threatening. If you have never had to do this work before, it is better to turn to professionals, at least for a step-by-step consultation, including on calculating the power of consumers and choosing the cable cross-section.

Calculate the cost of installing electrical wiring in your apartment!
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Do you want to change the wiring in your apartment yourself? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don’t have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself, this article is for you.

Calculations and diagram

Single-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you don’t need to be an engineer, because you don’t need a complicated linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing by hand. An electrical wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly distribute the cable throughout the apartment, and calculate its approximate amount, as well as determine the load on each future line.

Wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, take into account what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are pass-through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one busy line, for example in the kitchen; it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Determine the required number of lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to operate without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate cross-section. And if there are several consumers on the same line (for example to the kitchen) (and there will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave cable safety margin, that is, select the desired cross-section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.

In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. — For outlet lines, use a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 sq. mm, for all lighting 1.5 sq. mm, and for a hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq. mm - and everything will be fine!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in Watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, neutral, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (with grounding), because all modern devices have an additional protective terminal, and automatic protective equipment only works using grounding .

To replace electrical wiring, it is best to use a VVG-ng cable. You can, of course, use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft ones need to be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller grooves, and it is possible to insert the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross-section of 1.5mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only cable in accordance with GOST! For example, an excellent cable is the Gostov VVG ng cable. This is a very important point in preparing to replace the wiring! You can save on automation or sockets (they can always be replaced), but don’t skimp on the cable - get a good one.

Marking

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located; the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after renovation will be 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and place a mark every 7 cm (socket box size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for children's institutions, kindergartens and schools, where sockets and switches are installed at height not lower than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially in your home, you can do as you please. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.

Preparing for gating

Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as laying cables under baseboards or ducts.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a suspended or suspended ceiling; if these are not planned, then the ceiling needs to be chipped. And since, monolith of ceilings Ditching is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster to the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We strongly do not recommend ditching the ceiling yourself, since you need to know the technology for correct gating so that the whole house doesn’t collapse someday.

In cases where plastering of the ceiling is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and tighten a new one in its place.

Using a 70mm or 68mm concrete crown (attachment for a hammer drill), holes for the socket boxes are drilled. Using a wall chaser or grinder, grooves are cut out for laying the cable. There should be grooves in the walls strictly vertical, not horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the panel are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugation is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed; the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation in accordance with GOST! Save on corrugation; if you don’t have drywall or wood (or other flammable materials), then you don’t need corrugation!

Noisy work

When you start hammering walls, don’t forget about the law. You can only make noise with a hammer drill in apartment buildings at strictly defined times; each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan you need to get permission from the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they start beating in response. It's better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Grilling

Before you start dabbling, it is highly advisable that the walls and ceilings be plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since everything socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw the monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will be trenching so as not to touch communications, such as old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't determine where the old wiring goes, call an electrician, or simply turn it off in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For ease of work, make yourself a temporary carrier (extension).

The hole for the socket boxes is drilled to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, then drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown. After which, the cutting with a crown will go noticeably faster, one might say – it will go like clockwork. If it gets on the reinforcement, it is best to use another crown; in extreme cases, you can knock it off with a spatula. It’s better to use a hammer drill for help (don’t forget about neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Grooves for laying cables go from the socket box to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the groove down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these tasks, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder and a diamond disc for stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, wear a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to prevent dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

Laying the cable on the floor is not difficult; it is enough to hold it to the floor in any way so that it does not float up when they make the screed. Usually they lay the cable along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall) so that later they know exactly where the cable goes.

It is worth noting that it is better not to lay cables under doorways! To lay the cable along the floor, it is better to make through holes between the rooms. Otherwise, there is a possibility of damaging the cable when installing the interior thresholds.

Laying the cable in the groove is also not particularly difficult. You can secure the cable in the groove using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (construction plaster). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use for installing socket boxes. But before you smear the grooves with it, you need to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fastened in the groove and does not stick out anywhere, the grooves can be covered with ordinary plaster mixture; this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Junction boxes (or distribution boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today, professional electricians will tell you that There is no need to install junction boxes in existing apartments! They can play a cruel joke on your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing, flooded neighbors, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It’s easy to give up junction boxes - do all the switching in the socket boxes! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Typically, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is needed to branch out socket lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.

Electrical panel installation

The most budget option is to install all the circuit breakers on the staircase in a common panel, where your old circuit breakers and meter are already located. To do this, it is necessary to route all the cables into the access panel. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead shield is up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetically pleasing, but the overhead one is easier to install. All lines from the apartment go to the panel, and from it one thick cable goes to the entrance panel, the cross-section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable cross-section. According to the rules, you cannot insert more than two lines into one machine; if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. The most necessary condition is the installation of circuit breakers for protection against overloads and short-circuit currents (conventional single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (current leakage protection).

It is best to install RCDs on the lines of high-risk areas: wet rooms, children's rooms. There is no need to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! They install one common RCD only for the purpose of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a fault in the event of a leak, + the entire apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, lighting or street lines, an RCD is not installed.

Installing additional types of protection is already a luxury: thermal relay (protection from cable heating), lightning protection, stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm, etc.

Shield assembly

One of the most crucial moments is assembling the shield. If you are using a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be any color except blue and yellow), all others (zero N blue, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their busbars. When using RCDs or difavtomats (automatic and RCD “in one bottle”), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marked N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers made of wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the switchboard, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate cross-section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and neutrals across the circuit breakers using a cable with a cross-section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fit into the clamp, or does not hold well in it.

Final installation. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed last, after clean finishing (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule of good installation is good contact!

Most of the outlets in your apartment are pass-through, that is, through them the cable goes in a loop to each subsequent outlet. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example IEK), they have a very poor (to put it mildly) clamp and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, pull all connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumps out of the clamp, it means you did not clamp it properly or the clamp was defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that the best clamps in sockets are produced by LeGrande and Schneider.

To ensure that the frames lie flat and tight, install a group of sockets or switches level, joint to joint, and screw them to the socket boxes with small self-tapping screws on two opposite sides, close to the wall. Then tighten the spacers inside the socket (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or screws!

Monitor the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use screws that are too long, as they may touch the wires.

At each stage of repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finishing.

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