Philodendron: growing at home. Features of growing philodendron by seed Necessary care at home

The vegetative method is most often used to propagate philodendron. It allows you to quickly and without much hassle not only get a new plant, but also tidy up an old bush. However, it is not always possible to get a cutting. In addition, there are varieties of philodendron that have practically no stem, so they reproduce by seeds, for example, Philodendron Sello. You can get seeds at any flower shop, but now we’ll talk about how to properly grow philodendron from seeds.

Do I need to prepare the seeds?

Although philodendron seeds have good germination, it is not 100%, and gardeners often complain that only one seed sprouted from a whole bag, or even nothing sprouted at all.

To ensure that the purchased seeds do not disappoint, they simply need to be prepared first by subjecting them to two important and necessary procedures:

firstly, soak for a day in a growth stimulator;

secondly, scratch each seed, damaging its shell.

What soil should I sow in?

At the stage of seed germination, light, loose soil will be required, since the seeds of philodendron are small. In dense, heavy soil, it will be difficult for tender shoots to break through to the top.

For sowing, you can use a regular universal substrate, adding a little coconut fiber to it. Before filling it with soil, drainage should be placed at the bottom of the container, which will protect the seedlings from rotting.

Spread the seeds over the surface of the soil, lightly sprinkle with soil and spray well with a spray bottle. Now all that remains is to organize greenhouse conditions for them: cover the container with a bag or a piece of glass.

Place the greenhouse on a warm windowsill with good lighting. In order for the seeds to germinate, they will need high humidity, in addition, the air temperature in the greenhouse under the film must be at least 25 degrees Celsius.

How to care for seedlings?

Further care of the seedlings is the same as when growing seedlings of other indoor plants. The greenhouse must be ventilated daily, opening the cap for a few minutes, and periodically spray the soil, preventing it from drying out.

It is worth noting that you will have to wait quite a long time for the first shoots of philodendron - sprouts will appear no earlier than in 1.5 months.

When the seeds germinate, remove the cap and continue caring for the seedlings. You can put them into a separate container when two true leaves have formed on the bushes. The next transplant is done a year later in the spring, changing the pot to a more spacious one.

Growing Philodendron - video

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Tuberous begonia: growing from seeds

Growing begonia with seeds is quite a troublesome task, requiring constant, vigilant strict control, but if all the basic nuances of agricultural technology are observed, the results will certainly please you.

Most often, ever-flowering and decorative-deciduous types of begonias are grown from seeds, but tuberous begonias can also be obtained from seeds, although it is worth noting that this process is not quick, so you need to be patient.

Timing for sowing tuberous begonia from seeds

Tuberous begonia seeds are usually sown in December - February. This difference affects plant development, decorative qualities and seed productivity. To establish the optimal sowing time, seeds of various begonia varieties were sown at four times: December, January, February and March (15th of each month). Plants were planted in open ground and in a greenhouse as they were ready: the first and second terms - June 5, the third - July 5, the fourth - July 15-20 after early flowering ones (tulips and hyacinths).

At the first, December, sowing time, tuberous begonia blooms in 150-155 days, that is, in 3.5-5 months. During the second and third sowing dates (January, February), tuberous begonia blooms 10-15 days earlier. At the latest sowing date, flowering occurs after 175 days. The duration of the flowering period also varied. During the first and second sowing dates, tuberous begonia bloomed for 98-112 days. With the fourth term, 83 and 67 days, respectively.

The timing of sowing has a great influence on the formation of tubers. The most complete tubers, 2-2.5 cm in diameter, are formed during the December and January sowing dates. They keep well in winter. Tubers sown in February are much smaller. Their diameter reaches only 0.5 cm. During storage, they fall out by 30-35%. At the March sowing time, if the plants are grown in a greenhouse, the tubers form in pots and reach 1-1.5 cm in diameter by the end of the growing season.

Articles about growing seedlings

Necessary equipment for sowing tuberous begonia from seeds

Begonia from seeds, when grown, retains all maternal characteristics, unless pollination by other species has previously occurred. If the plant from which the seeds were collected stood next to the same one, but of a different color, then a surprise may await you as a result. But this makes the process even more interesting, since you can become the owner of a completely new variety. However, if you want to preserve your favorite plant, keep it away from such pollinators during flowering. For sowing, you will need to stock up on shallow containers and soil for sowing. The soil does not have to be fertile, since at the beginning of its development the seed has enough of its own nutrients contained in it in reserve. Containers for sowing should also not be bulky, since the seedlings will remain in them for a short time before transplanting, the so-called diving.

When the seedlings grow up, they will need to be transplanted into separate pots and special soil, purchased in specialized stores. Begonia is a capricious plant, so it is better not to save money and splurge on ready-made soil mixtures for begonias.

The process of growing tuberous begonia from seeds

One bag weighing 2/10 of a gram can contain up to a thousand tuberous begonia seeds. To increase their size, manufacturers use pan coating (granulation) technology. As a result, the seeds are covered with a shell of a water-soluble composition. If you are wondering how to grow begonia from seeds, if it belongs to the tuberous species, then the answer to this question is very short.

The agricultural technology for growing tuberous begonia with seeds has a number of nuances:

The temperature of the crops should be 22 – 27 °C;

After emergence of seedlings, the temperature is gradually reduced to 19°C;

After the formation of the third leaf, the seedlings are planted;

The second pick is carried out 4 - 5 weeks after the first.

Gently mix the seeds that are not covered with granules with sand in order to then distribute them as evenly as possible over the soil surface. The sowing of granular seeds is easy to control due to their bright color.

How to grow a cactus from seeds at home

Growing rare plants from seeds is a real pleasure for a gardener. And growing something as exotic as cacti from seeds is something incredible. And yet, growing them is not particularly difficult if certain conditions are met. And you will be guaranteed a lot of positive emotions from this process!

Experienced cactus growers have special greenhouses with lamps and reflectors designed for this sacrament. But to successfully grow your own cacti, all these attributes are not required, although they are desirable. It is quite possible to grow cacti from seeds without these “bells and whistles,” if you wish.

Preparing seeding equipment for growing cactus

It is better to sow each species separately, or two species together in small boxes (for example, children's cubes), which are then conveniently placed in one common bowl.

You can also sow in one plastic or ceramic bowl with a depth of at least 3 cm, which is divided into cells using vertical partitions. The sowing site of each species is marked with a number or name. Beforehand, the dishes must be thoroughly washed and disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, bleach or formaldehyde. It is advisable to boil ceramic dishes. All preparation is done on the eve of sowing.

Preparing the seed substrate for growing cactus

The substrate for sowing must be well permeable to air and water, poor in nutrients, able to retain moisture, have a slightly acidic reaction (pH-6) and be sterile. These requirements are met by a mixture of equal parts of sifted leaf soil and coarse washed lime-free sand, with a small addition of sifted peat and charcoal powder. More complex compositions do not have noticeable advantages.

To sterilize, the finished mixture is poured into a pan, moistened well, tightly closed with a lid and placed in the oven, where the temperature is maintained at 200 - 250 ° C. Three liters of the mixture are sterilized for 1-1.5 hours. For smaller quantities of the mixture, the duration of sterilization is reduced.

It is also convenient to carry out sterilization over steam in a pressure cooker. After sterilization, the substrate should remain moist. Sterilization is performed on the eve of sowing. For drainage, use small pebbles, well washed and boiled.

Preparing cactus seeds at home

The process of preparing cactus seeds for planting is similar to many vegetable plants. Soaking them in a potassium permanganate solution will help speed up germination, and the rotting process will be minimized.

It is important to remember that the seeds can be planted a day after soaking. Longer soaking in water will lead to the appearance of long sprouts, which, unfortunately, break off easily.

Planting cactus seeds at home

In any planting bowl there should be three layers: the first is drainage, then a layer of prepared soil, which should be compacted to remove the resulting voids, the top layer is looser and finer, for this the soil must be sifted through a strainer.

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Level the surface, plant seeds using a needle or small brush, and additionally moisten. You need to create a shelter from transparent plastic or glass on top, and place the containers in a warm, bright place. To moisturize, use a pipette or spray bottle, do not allow it to dry out. Monitor the temperature, which should be within +25°C.

After 2-3 months, it is already possible to pick the seedlings, which promotes better growth of thorny plants and a reduction in diseases.

A few words about picking cacti

Grown cacti, on which the first spines and delicate hairs have already begun to appear, must be replanted, and together with a lump of earth around the root. A thick drainage layer is arranged in a separate pot, and then the container is filled with substrate for cacti. The surface of the earth is very carefully leveled, a small depression is made in it and a young plant is placed there. The roots are sprinkled with a thin layer of fertile soil. The small sprout is placed in a warm, bright room, protected from direct sunlight, and watered moderately (as the soil dries).

Conditions for growing cactus

If no signs of growth are noticed, you need to remember the rule: in doubt, do not water! Too much water is always more dangerous than not enough. This is especially important for winter, when most cacti are kept very dry, of course, when kept cold. Low temperatures are necessary for many cacti to bloom during the next growing season.

This cold but light content is sometimes the greatest difficulty in indoor cacti culture. A cold but dark room is not suitable here. Many cacti, especially those blooming in spring, require maximum illumination during rest periods. Despite the cold winter, sometimes it is not possible to achieve flowering of cacti. The reason is that in these species we are dealing with young plants that have not yet matured to the flowering stage. Certain cacti, such as Melocactus, Cephalocereus, Espostoa, form flowers only in a certain flowering zone, this is called the cephalium. This zone is covered with dense, mostly yellow or brown hairs or setae, which sit like a cap on the top or sometimes on the sides of columnomid cacti (the so-called lateral cephalium).

How to water a cactus at home

Watering during growth and flowering is carried out abundantly, but the water should not stagnate in the pot. Water with warm, settled water, but never on flowers. It's good if you spray it with water every day.
During the period of flowering and budding, fertilizing (root and foliar) is carried out for two weeks; these are ready-made mixtures for forest cacti rich in potassium and moderate nitrogen content, which is harmful to the roots in large quantities.

What kind of lighting should there be?

Lighting. Cacti need light at the very early stage of life - during germination. Of course, like many indoor crops, direct sunlight will be harmful to them. Therefore, it is advisable to place the tray on a sunny window, but it must be shaded.

Philodendron at home

Plant philodendron (lat. Philodendron) belongs to the genus of evergreen flowering perennials of the Araceae family, which, according to experts from the Missouri Botanical Garden, numbers about 900 species. The genus is the second largest in the number of plants in the family, so not all of its representatives have yet been described and studied. In the wild, philodendrons are found from Mexico to the tropical zone of America in swamps, river banks and moist, warm forests, as well as in Australia and the Pacific islands, where they were apparently introduced by seafarers.

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Philodendron flower - description

Philodendrons have an amazing variety of life forms: among them there are hemiepiphytes, epiphytes and even hemiepiphytes, but primarily philodendrons are climbing plants, epiphytes that use aerial roots to anchor themselves to a support. It’s not for nothing that in translation “philodendron” means “I love a tree.” If a philodendron seed has sprouted from the soil and there is no tree nearby to climb, the plant will crawl along the ground in a long vine, guided by the shadow cast by the nearest tree, fence, or anything else that the philodendron can use as a support. Philodendron has underground and aerial roots. Aerial ones are divided into numerous short and hairy ones, which serve to secure the plant to a support, and thicker and longer ones, used to extract nutrients and moisture.

The stems of philodendron are fleshy, woody at the base, the leaves are alternate, petiolate, large - in nature, sometimes up to two meters long. Depending on the type and variety, the leaf blade can be oval, pinnately dissected, arrow-shaped, etc. On the same plant, young and old leaves can differ not only in size, but also in shape. The color of the leaves is also varied, but the color of the upper side of the leaf is always darker than the bottom. The inflorescence of a philodendron is an ear with a waxy two-color blanket, similar to a hood, the fruit is a berry.

Some philodendrons grow to large sizes and require a lot of living space, so they are grown in greenhouses to decorate entryways, great rooms and conservatories. But we are interested in indoor philodendron, which will not take up much space and time, but at the same time will refresh and decorate an ordinary city apartment.

Philodendron - home care

How to care for philodendron?

It is best to place home philodendron in light partial shade, away from direct sunlight, and do not forget that variegated forms of the plant need more light than single-colored ones. Make sure that the philodendron is protected from drafts. The temperature in summer should not be higher than 25? C; on hot, stuffy days, spray the plant or wash its leaves with settled water to prevent them from overheating. In winter, the air temperature should not fall below 15? C.

Air humidity should be, if not like in a tropical forest, then still very high, the lack of humidity will immediately affect the appearance of the leaves: they will become smaller and simpler in shape. Therefore, get ready for frequent spraying - this is what distinguishes caring for philodendron. Watering Philodendron must be organized in such a way that the substrate does not remain dry for a long time, otherwise drought will immediately affect the decorative qualities of the plant - first the tips of the leaves will dry out, then whole leaves in the lower part of the plant will dry out and fall off. Excess moisture leads to Philodendron leaves turn yellow. Philodendron turns yellow, however, in some other cases, for example, when overfed with fertilizers. Water for irrigation should be used either boiled or settled.

Philodendron fertilizer.

In tropical forests, philodendrons feed on animal excrement, rotted tree leaves, insect waste products, rainwater and dust dissolved in it. Indoor types of philodendrons respond well to fertilizers with equal percentages of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, but the concentration of the solution should be 20% weaker than that specified by the manufacturers, and the more often you feed, the weaker the concentration should be. The dormant period of philodendron is weakly expressed, but it occurs in winter, so after the new year, feeding is temporarily stopped and watering is reduced - until mid-March.

Replanting homemade philodendron.

Philodendron is replanted in the spring, as needed: young plants - annually, adults - once every 3-4 years. A pot that is too cramped or updating the old soil may be considered a necessity. Substrate for this tropical plant it must be slightly acidic, light, porous, breathable and at the same time nutritious. The basis for it can be soil for orchids, consisting of charcoal, sphagnum moss, peat and bark. To this mixture you need to add perlite or sand, high-moor peat and leaf (grass) humus. This composition will provide air access to the roots and, quickly passing water through it, will remain moist for a long time. You do not need any special instructions on how to replant a philodendron: it is best to use the transshipment method, and then supplement the new pot with fresh substrate.

Philodendron propagation

Philodendron propagates vegetatively, by apical or stem cuttings, as well as by leaves with a heel. The cut should be sprinkled with sulfur or charcoal to avoid rotting in a humid environment. Propagation should be carried out in spring or summer, and areas of the plant on which aerial roots have already formed are best suited for planting. For rooting, a mixture of garden soil with vermiculite and sand is used. It is advisable to place the rooted part of the plant under a plastic bag to create greenhouse conditions; from time to time the polyethylene will need to be removed to ventilate the plant and eliminate condensation. Then, when the cutting or leaf takes root, it is transplanted into more nutritious soil.

Home philodendron - species

Since there are too many philodendrons both in nature and in culture, we will try to introduce you to the most famous and popular species and forms. So.

Philodendron melanochrysum andreanum

- a highly decorative species due to its heterophylly (various leaves): young leaves are small (5-7 cm long) - heart-shaped, copper-red, and adults reach from 40 to 80 cm in length (in nature, of course), in shape - more oblong, color bronze-green with whitish veins and a narrow light border along the edge. At home it is demanding regarding air humidity.

Philodendron micans

- a small and compact vine. The stems are thin, the leaves are up to 10 cm long and up to 5 cm wide, velvety, young ones are reddish in color, adults are brownish-green. Unpretentious.

Philodendron verrucosum

very popular among flower growers because it is incredibly beautiful: heart-shaped velvety leaves 15-20 cm long and 10 cm wide grow on petioles densely dotted with warty bristles. The problem with this species is that it does not tolerate dry air well.

Philodendron bippenifolium

is also in demand in culture. Its leaves, shaped like a famous musical instrument, reach 40-50 cm in length. The plant is not capricious and has already served as the basis for the breeding of several highly decorative hybrids.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum

And Philodendron selloum . Despite the external similarity, which misleads many, these are two different species. They are large vines with a woody, powerful trunk. The bipinnate philodendron is very rare, but the Sello philodendron is widespread in cultivation.

Philodendron erubescens

- the most famous species among flower growers, which served as the basis for breeders who successfully developed many varieties with its participation. The trunk of the vine is red-green, with age, when it becomes lignified, it turns into gray-golden. The leaf petioles at the base are dark red, the leaves are 25-30 cm long, 15-20 cm wide. The spathe covering the fragrant cob is white - 15 cm long, dark purple. The plant is completely unpretentious and tolerates infrequent watering, poor lighting, and insufficient air humidity.

In addition to the above, such types of philodendrons as arrow-leaved philodendron, scale-bearing philodendron, drop-bearing philodendron, graceful philodendron, ivy-shaped philodendron, lobed philodendron and many others are also grown in cultivation.

How to grow philodendron at home

Philodendrons are often used to decorate apartments. They are unpretentious and grow quickly with minimal care. The leaves look very original. The variety of varieties suitable for home conditions allows you to create a whole island of greenery, ideal for relaxing after a hard day at work.

Description of the plant

Philodendron (Philodendron) is a genus of perennial evergreen plants from the araceae family. About 900 species found in nature have been described, not counting hybrids bred through selection. The homeland of philodendron is the tropical rainforests of South and Central America, islands in the Caribbean Sea. There are especially many of them in Mexico. From these territories, sailors brought them to Australia, Oceania and Southeast Asia, where new species arose.

Monstera is a close relative of Philodendron.

There are two groups of philodendrons: vines and non-vines, which are called tree forms. Most of the plants of the second group are large in size, and all of them have notched leaves. Therefore, it is difficult to grow them in a room; they are more suitable for the halls of public buildings or for a greenhouse.

In their natural environment, philodendron vines grow up to 200 meters or more in length.

Literally translated from Greek, “philodendron” means “tree-lover.” This is a completely fair description. Most of them are climbing epiphytic plants that use tree trunks as support. The “owner” does not suffer in any way.

In nature, philodendrons are much larger than in captivity.

In order to cling to trunks, philodendrons produce short, thin aerial roots covered with small hairs. The plant uses other aerial roots, longer and thicker, to absorb nutrition and moisture.

If there is no tree near the place where the seed hatched, the philodendron will curl along the ground. But not in any randomly chosen direction, but focusing on the nearest shadow. This is how the plant “learns” about the location of something that can be used as a support. Until the philodendron reaches its goal, its internodes form long. Then they shrink sharply and get fat.

Philodendron without support is a continuous carpet of foliage

Tree-like philodendrons are easy to distinguish from other araceae. There are two types of leaves on the plants in strict order. The first one looks like a scale, covers the second one, located on the petiole. As the plant matures, the leaves gradually fall off, leaving a bare stem.

In adult plants, traces of fallen leaves are clearly visible on woody stems

The shape of the leaves is very diverse - ovoid, pinnate, heart-shaped, oval, arrow-shaped, fan-shaped. To the touch they are dense, leathery, located on long petioles. Under natural conditions, the leaves can be more than 2 m in length. Moreover, young and old leaves on the same plant can be completely different from each other. This has led to the fact that it is still not possible to determine the exact number of philodendron species.

The color of the leaf blade also varies significantly. But below it is always lighter than above. The philodendron inflorescence is a spadix up to 20 cm long, wrapped in a continuous petal-veil. The coloring is varied, but invariably two-tone. White, yellowish, scarlet colors are repeated. After flowering, the berries ripen.

It is almost impossible to make philodendron bloom at home.

Certain areas of the inflorescence can heat up to a temperature 10–12? C higher than the ambient temperature. The mechanism of this phenomenon is still unclear to botanists.

On a philodendron inflorescence, the flowers are arranged in a strict order

Philodendron has a beneficial effect on the atmosphere in the room in which it is located. The plant releases volatile phytoncides that purify the air from many pathogenic microbes and bacteria. These same substances have a positive effect on the health of those living in the apartment, especially in the presence of cardiovascular diseases and problems with blood pressure.

Carry out any work with philodendron only with gloves. Like all aroids, the leaves, stems and shoots of the plant contain a thick, acrid white sap. If it comes in contact with skin or mucous membranes, this substance can cause severe burns. For the same reason, remove pots of philodendron out of the reach of children and pets..

What types can you keep at home?

Philodendron is ideal for home gardening. But this does not apply to all types, but only to those that have suitable sizes. Some plants simply won’t fit into an apartment. But they look great in greenhouses and lobbies of large buildings.

Table: Philodendron spear-shaped, climbing, Xanadu and other popular varieties

Photo gallery: types of philodendron with different leaf shapes

How to create the microclimate a flower needs at home - table

Planting and transplanting

An adult plant does not need frequent replanting. Carry out the procedure once every 3-4 years, when the pot becomes small. Replant young philodendrons (up to 5 years old) every year. Replanting large philodendrons is associated with significant difficulties, and sometimes is not feasible at all, so you can limit yourself to annual replacement of the top layer of soil.

The possibility of replanting philodendron directly depends on the size of the plant.

The only suitable time for transplantation is spring. Finding out whether to carry out the procedure this year is easy. Pay attention to the leaves. If they gradually become smaller, it means that the plant is cramped in the pot. The shape of the new philodendron pot should be high and 5–8 cm larger in diameter than the old one. A layer of drainage at least 3–5 cm thick must be placed on the bottom.

You should not take a pot “for growth”, hoping that this way you will have to replant the plant less often. In this case, it is very easy to miscalculate watering.

The main requirement for the soil is lightness and breathability. At the same time, the soil must be nutritious. The best option is slightly acidic or neutral soil. It is best to prepare the substrate yourself, using as a basis one specifically designed for orchids. Add to it a glass of coarse river sand, dry peat and humus per liter.

Philodendrons also grow well in hydroponics.

Other soil options:

Mixed in equal proportions are turf soil, universal soil for indoor plants, humus, dry peat and river sand. For every 2 liters of soil, add a glass of crushed charcoal.

Turf soil, leaf humus, dry peat and sand in a ratio of 3:2:1:0.5.

Think in advance which design option to choose. The interior will be wonderfully decorated with a composition that reproduces the natural habitat of these plants: philodendrons on a support grow especially lush and dense. Supports can be bought or made yourself from a wooden cutting, wrapped in a suitable natural material - strips of moss, coconut fiber (sometimes called sponge). The most advantageous alternative is a hollow plastic tube of medium diameter with drilled holes or a plastic mesh rolled into a tube, filled with soil or sphagnum moss. On such a support, philodendron shoots will not only be fixed, but also take root.

Creepers look no less impressive in hanging pots. To ensure that the leaves form a continuous lush bush, periodically pinch the tops of the shoots.

The transplant procedure looks like this:

1. Remove the philodendron from the pot. Do not shake off the soil from the roots. They are very easy to damage, and then the plant will die.
2. Place a layer of soil about 5 cm thick into a pot with drainage.
3. Place a lump of earth taken from an old pot on the ground, and securely secure a support nearby.
4. Top up the soil. It should not reach the top edge of the pot by 1–2 cm. Make sure that the support does not warp.
5. Water the plant thoroughly.

Video: Philodendron transplant

Necessary care at home

Philodendron is relatively unpretentious. There is no clearly defined rest period. Pay the greatest attention to watering and fertilizing.

Philodendron is very moisture-loving. From early spring to mid-autumn the plant needs abundant watering. In winter it is reduced. Use water only at room temperature and pre-settled for at least 6-8 hours. The ideal option is rain or melt water. Water as the soil surface dries out. In hot weather, the plant is additionally sprayed 1-2 times a day. In winter, keep the soil slightly moist. Don't let her move away from the edges of the pot.

During the intensive growth phase (spring and summer), fertilize once every 15–20 days with a solution of universal liquid fertilizers for indoor decorative foliage plants. For very large specimens, double the number of feedings. In winter, on the contrary, once a month is enough. The content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in fertilizers should be approximately equal. Suitable: Kemira-Lux, Agricola, Master, Bona Forte, Floris, Orton Flower, Ideal. If you think the plant has grown excessively, choose fertilizers with a minimum of nitrogen.

Strictly follow the manufacturer's recommended dosage. An overfed philodendron turns yellow, withers, and leaves fall off. You can get rid of excess minerals by immersing the pot in a container of water. When the soil is well saturated, allow the liquid to drain. Repeat 2-3 more times.

Do not feed a newly transplanted plant for six months.

For philodendrons grown in greenhouses or greenhouses, add humus to the soil in mid-summer at the rate of 1 liter for every 15 liters of soil in the pot.

For greater decorativeness and “bushiness,” pinch off the tips of shoots that have reached a length of about 50 cm by about a quarter. Then the plant will begin to branch more intensively. Use the “clippings” as cuttings. It is strictly forbidden to cut off aerial roots. It's better to point them towards the pot. Over time they will reach the soil.

Problems and their solutions

Flower growers, especially beginners, often encounter the fact that philodendron loses its decorative effect. The reason is individual errors in care.

Philodendron: features of growing a tropical beauty

Philodendron is a popular plant that looks beautiful both in a city apartment and in an office. This tropical resident does not require careful care and will not take up a lot of time for busy people. The variety of philodendron species is great, and both natural and hybrid plant varieties are used at home.

Philodendron: general description

Philodendron is an evergreen perennial plant of the Araceae family. In its natural environment, philodendron grows in Mexico and the tropics of South America, as well as in Australia and some Pacific islands, where it was brought by travelers.

For the most part, philodendrons are vines that are attached to a support using aerial roots. If the plant has grown far from a tree on which it could cling, its lashes simply creep along the ground in the direction of the nearest trees.

The stems of philodendron are thick, fleshy, and woody at the base. The leaves are large and can sometimes grow up to 2 m in length. The leaf blade can have an oval, heart-shaped, arrow-shaped or dissected shape, depending on the type of philodendron. Leaves of different ages on the same plant vary in shape and size. The color of the leaves is varied - from shades of green to red. Philodendron blooms with cobs with a two-color spathe, and the fruit of the plant is a berry.

Some types of philodendron are not suitable for city apartments; there is too little space for them. But there are also indoor philodendrons, they are quite compact.

Video about the plant

Types and varieties common in indoor floriculture - table

Appearance of some varieties of philodendron - photo gallery

Philodendrons are unpretentious, but require some simple growing rules.

Conditions depending on the season - table

Features of planting and transplanting

Space and support requirements

Future owners of philodendrons should be guided not only by their appearance, but also by the amount of space in the room. Tree varieties are particularly demanding of living space. Most often they are used to decorate country houses and office spaces due to their large size. At the same time, we should not forget that a lack of living space leads to significant injury to plants, falling and withering of leaves. As a result, the philodendron may lose its attractiveness.

If the choice is in favor of vines, they should be provided with comfortable support. Such philodendrons cling to aerial roots during growth. Therefore, the choice should be made on supports wrapped in suitable material, for example, moss or coconut fiber. Branched stands also look great. When skillfully pinching the shoots, the philodendron very quickly entwines them.

Soil requirements for planting

Most varieties of philodendron grow well on slightly acidic and neutral substrates. At the same time, they require the soil to be sufficiently loose and light. Therefore, the soil should be mixed with sand, peat or humus in a 1:1 ratio. Of the commercially available substrates for philodendrons, the best soils are those intended for violets and orchids. At the same time, it is worth adding additional baking powder to them. Expanded clay, small pebbles or broken bricks must be poured onto the bottom of the pot.

Pot and transplant

Philodendron feels most comfortable in a rather cramped pot. As soon as the roots intertwine into a tight ball, the plant needs a transplant. To do this, you should take a pot that will be about 10% larger than the previous one.

Philodendron replanting is usually required every three years. It is best to produce it in late winter or early spring. After transplantation, the plant should be well shaded and watering reduced for approximately 14 days.

Step by step process

Planting philodendron does not require any special skills. However, in order for the plant to feel comfortable, the following instructions must be followed:

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the pot. There should be quite a lot of it - at least a quarter of the height of the vessel.

Pre-prepared soil is poured over the drainage.

The plant is planted in the soil so that the roots are completely covered with soil. In this case, you should ensure that the growing point of small philodendrons is not covered.

The plant is watered abundantly.

Philodendron care

Philodendron is a rather unpretentious plant. However, in order for him to feel comfortable and actively develop, a number of simple conditions must be observed.

Watering and required air humidity

Philodendron requires regular watering. It is undesirable to allow the soil to dry out. If you water a flower rarely, this may affect its appearance. In this case, the leaves of philodendrons become small and lose their attractiveness.

For irrigation, use soft water free of chlorine. Non-mineral spring water is excellent. When watering with tap water, it should first be left for several days.

The air when growing philodendrons should be sufficiently humid. The flower reacts to its dryness by shredding the leaves and losing their decorative properties. Therefore, in hot summers and winters, when the heating is turned on, the philodendron should be sprayed regularly - at least once a day.

How to fertilize philodendron

In summer, plants need to be fed with regular store-bought fertilizers at least weekly; in winter, monthly feeding is sufficient. If the vine is large, you can add humus once in the summer to the top layer of the substrate.

Philodendron is fed only after thorough watering, otherwise excess salts in the soil can harm it. When choosing fertilizers, it is recommended to purchase complex ones. If you want to speed up the growth of a flower, you should feed it with compounds containing a high nitrogen content.

The plant does not tolerate excess fertilizer well - its leaves rust and wither. If too much fertilizer is added, then the philodendron does not need to be fed for at least 2 months.

Usually, the philodendron can cope with excess fertilizers on its own for some time, but if the concentration of minerals in the soil is too high, the plant will have to be replanted. You can simply rinse the soil by placing the pot under running water at room temperature for 15 minutes; it should not stagnate, completely coming out through the hole at the bottom.

A plant bought in a store should start feeding after 2–4 weeks, and if you grew it yourself, then when the first shoots appear. Plants that have been transplanted do not need to be fed for the first six months.

If the philodendron is not replanted on time and fed irregularly, the leaves will begin to become smaller and the tips will turn yellow and dry out. The plant begins to grow more slowly, and underfeeding negatively affects the thickness of the trunk.

Philodendron actively develops throughout the year. He does not require a period of rest.

Errors in care and ways to eliminate them - table

Most often, diseases and pests affect weakened plants, so to prevent them, the philodendron should be properly cared for. Nevertheless, any gardener should know how flower ailments manifest themselves and how to deal with them.

Control of diseases and insect pests - table

Increase the temperature.

Water the plant thoroughly and cover with a bag for 3 days.

In case of a high degree of damage, wipe the leaves with soapy water, then treat the flower with Fitoverm (dilute 10 ml of the drug in 1 liter of water). Spraying is carried out once a week for a month.

1. Replanting into new soil.
2. Treatment with Actellik, as in case of scale insects.

Philodendron pests in the photo

Reproduction of philodendron at home

Philodendron can be propagated using cuttings or seeds.

Rooting cuttings with leaves

When propagating by cuttings, it is enough to cut off the top with several leaves. An additional advantage will be the presence of aerial roots.

To root a philodendron, you will need the following:

3. Cuttings must be treated with activated carbon powder and left in air for 3–4 hours.
4. Prepare the soil. To do this, mix peat and sand in equal proportions and water thoroughly.
5. Stick the cuttings into the prepared substrate.
6. Cover the pots with film and secure it well so that air does not get inside. You can also use glass jars if there is a suitable volume. Cuttings need good lighting and a temperature of about 30? C.
7. Every few days you should open the greenhouse briefly to spray the soil. After a month, you can increase the ventilation time, and after another 30 days, remove the greenhouse.
8. When new leaves appear, philodendrons can be transplanted into larger pots and cared for as adults.

If you propagate philodendron using air layering, the stem with aerial roots does not need to be cut from the plant. It is enough to attach the roots to the soil surface with a pin. Once the cuttings have taken root, they can be cut from the mother plant.

Growing from seeds

Since philodendron practically does not bloom at home, seeds should be purchased at the store. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates their germination rate on the packaging, usually it is 80%.

Instructions for sowing seeds:

9. For a day, soak the seeds in a solution of potassium humate, HB-101 or another growth stimulant, diluted in accordance with the attached description.
10. Fill the pots with sand and water well. The substrate should first be poured with boiling water or heated in the oven.
11. Place the seeds on the surface and sprinkle with water.
12. Cover the pots with film or glass and place in a warm, well-lit place.
13. Do not allow the soil to dry out, and ventilate your plantings for a few minutes every day.

Philodendron germinates 1.5–2 months after planting the seeds. From the moment of germination, gradually accustom the plant to air, increasing the ventilation time. As soon as real leaves appear, you can plant the sprouts into pots. After a year, replant the philodendron and care for it as usual.

Philodendron is an evergreen perennial vine belonging to the Araceae family. “Tree-lover” is how the name of the plant is translated. This is explained by the fact that in tropical forests (lives in Mexico, Latin America, Australia) the vine climbs tree trunks, seeking bright light. Help is provided by aerial roots located in the internodes. They serve not only for attachment to the support, but also for nutrition. The finest hairs sprout and become attached to the trunk.

Botanical description

The shape of the plant can be varied: epiphyte, semi-epiphyte, terrestrial plant in the form of a flexible vine or subshrub.

The root system is superficial and branches well. The stem is quite thin, its length varies from a few centimeters to 2-3 m. Over time, the base of the stem becomes so woody that support is no longer needed. The bark is brownish, flaking.

The leaves are very decorative. The leaf blade can reach a length of up to 2 m. They are arranged alternately, attached to long petioles. They can be oval, arrow-shaped, finger-dissected or have a dissection in the form of a pattern. Moreover, the shape of the leaves can change several times during the life cycle of the plant. The main color is various shades of green, there are variegated forms. The vine also grows cataphylls - these are scale-like leaves that serve as protection for vegetative buds. The leaves fall off, leaving indentations on the trunk where the petioles attach.

How philodendron blooms

The flowering is a spadix surrounded by a spathe. It is located on a dense short stalk, colored in a light green, cream or pinkish tint. Its length is about 25 cm. The bedspread has a cream or reddish tint. At the top of the spadix are the male reproductive flowers, then the gap is filled with sterile flowers, and at the bottom are the female ones.

But the activity of male flowers does not coincide with the activity of female flowers - pollination requires several inflorescences, which open at different times. At first, the cob grows vertically, slightly covered with a blanket, then bends slightly, and the blanket moves to the side. Philodendron is pollinated by bread beetles and beetles.

Then the cob returns to an upright position and is completely covered with a blanket. On one plant during flowering, 1-11 inflorescences open. The fruit is a juicy berry, the ripening of which can last about 1 year. At this time, the cob is under a tightly closed blanket. The ripe fruit has a white, yellow, greenish tint. It is filled with very small seeds.

Various types of philodendron can often be found in greenhouses and botanical gardens, but some of them are adapted to indoor conditions. Even an inexperienced gardener can care for this vine.

Growing philodendron from seeds at home

Philodendron seeds photo

• Small philodendron seeds should be sown shallowly, up to 0.5 cm deep.
• The soil is loose, slightly acidic; you can add some pine needles for better air and water permeability.
• It is better to plant seeds less frequently, keeping a distance of 5 cm between seeds.
• Water from a spray bottle and cover the container with a bag.
• Keep in a bright, warm place.

• Shoots appear unevenly, after 1.5-2 months.
• When the second true leaf appears, the plants are planted in separate containers.
• Philodendron seedlings develop very slowly, at first having absolutely no resemblance to adult plants. Only in the second year will similar leaf shapes appear.
• As the plants grow, they are transferred to larger pots.
• It is advisable to direct aerial roots to the base of the trunk, into the ground, so that they take root.
• In warm weather, during the active growing season, young seedlings are fed with complex fertilizers for decorative foliage 1-2 times a month, and in winter, during the dormant period, feeding is stopped.

Propagation of philodendron by cuttings

Flowering at home is extremely rare, and pollination requires the presence of several flowering plants, so the plant is most often grown from cuttings.

Philodendron reproduces successfully vegetatively. It is better to carry out the procedure in spring or summer.

• After pruning the plant, a large amount of planting material is obtained. These are apical or stem cuttings.
• The cuttings should contain 2-3 internodes.
• Root in a sand-peat mixture or water.
• First, keep the cuttings for a day in the root solution.
• Place the cuttings horizontally or stick them into the soil at an angle of 30-45°, cover the container with film or glass to create a greenhouse effect.
• Maintain the air temperature between 25-30 °C. Ventilate at least once every 2 days. The rooting process lasts 7-30 days.
• If there are aerial roots in the internodes, this happens quickly.

Philodendron is also propagated by leaves with a heel (the leaf plate is cut off along with the petiole and a piece of old bark). Root in water or sand-peat mixture. Once roots appear, plant in a permanent pot.

Reproduction by layering

• Species that have a vertical, quickly lignifying stem can be propagated by layering.
• Damage the bark on the side shoot (shallow cut), wrap it with sphagnum, securing it with tape.
• Moisten the moss regularly. Roots will appear in 2-3 weeks.
• Separate the cutting from the mother plant and plant it in a pot to grow on its own.

How to divide a philodendron bush, watch the video:

Philodendron transplant

Replant young plants (up to 3-4 years old) annually, then every 2-3 years. It is better to do this in February-March. Focus on the appearance of the plant: if it is withering, its growth rate has slowed down, most likely the container is already too small. Each time you replant, slightly increase the diameter of the container.

The soil requires loose, air- and water-permeable, neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

A mixture that works well for plants is: 2 parts each of turf and peat soil, 1 part humus soil and 0.5 parts sand. You can add some charcoal or moss to prevent the plant from rotting.

You can mix leaf, coniferous soil, sand and peat in equal proportions.

Place a drainage layer at the bottom of the container.

Immediately after planting, provide shading and minimal watering; the plant will adapt after a couple of weeks.

How to care for philodendron at home

For good growth and development it is necessary to provide optimal conditions. Care will not cause much trouble; the philodendron is able to withstand a short vacation of its owners.

When choosing a location, keep in mind that over time the dimensions of the plant increase - it should not be cramped.

Lighting

Philodendron requires bright, indirect lighting without direct sunlight. Light shading is possible, but the color of the leaves fades due to lack of light. A suitable location would be windows facing east or west.

Air temperature

A temperature range of 17-24 °C will be comfortable for the plant. In winter, a gradual decrease to 14 °C is allowed. In the summer heat, ventilate the room more often. Drafts and sudden temperature changes harm the plant.

Air humidity

The liana requires high air humidity (about 70%). Spray the plant daily using a fine mist sprayer to ensure that there are no streaks left on the beautiful leaves. Periodically place on a tray with damp moss, pebbles, and expanded clay. The proximity to the aquarium is favorable, you can place any container with water nearby, use air humidifiers. Dust makes air exchange difficult - periodically bathe the vine under a warm shower.

Watering

Apply generously and often, keeping the soil slightly moist at all times. Drain excess water from the pan. Avoid waterlogging; at low air temperatures, reduce watering.

For watering and spraying, use soft (settled for at least 24 hours) water at room temperature.

Feeding

During the period May-September, fertilizers should be applied to decorative deciduous plants 2-4 times a month. Use 30% or 50% dose respectively. The rest of the time, feed 1-2 times a month with a low concentration fertilizer solution. Balance is important. Young plants are fed less often. When transplanting adult plants, you can add rotted manure to the soil - then do not feed for a couple of months. The introduction of large amounts of nitrogen is harmful to variegated forms - the color fades.

Philodendron pruning

• Apply in the spring before the active growth period begins.
• Leave the stem length about 40 cm.
• The cut location is below the zone of the upper tier of aerial roots.
• To limit the size of the plant, periodically pinch the shoots. Do this over the top internode.
• Remove dying leaves at any time.
• Aerial roots can be shortened, but do not cut them off completely.

Diseases and pests, other difficulties in caring for philodendron

Root rot occurs from overwatering. An emergency transplant is required. Remove the vine from the pot, remove the affected areas of the root, treat the cut areas with a fungicide, and also disinfect the pot. Replace the substrate with a new one and plant the plant.

Pests: scale thrips, aphids, spider mites. If pests are detected, it is necessary to treat with an insecticide and spill the soil with aktara.

Possible difficulties:

• If the soil is initially chosen incorrectly (if it is heavy), proper moistening is difficult: dense soil will cake and take a long time to dry out.
• From excess fertilizer, the leaves wither, their tips turn yellow and brown.
• Due to a lack of nutrients, the leaf blades become smaller, the tips turn yellow, dry out, and overall growth rates slow down.
• With insufficient lighting, new leaves grow smaller, their color is pale, and their growth rate slows down.
• If the humidity of the earthen ball is constant, but the leaves have lost their elasticity, the lighting is too intense.
• Direct sunlight leaves burns on the leaves in the form of brown spots.
• The leaves become brown, brown, and fall off - insufficient watering.
• Yellowing of leaves occurs from excess moisture.
• The leaves become covered with black spots or dark green or brown spots appear between the veins - hypothermia.
• The leaf blades wrinkle, turn brown, and the tips turn up - the air is dry or the air temperature is too high.

Types of Philodendron with photos and names

The numerous genus has more than 400 species. Let's look at the most popular ones in home floriculture.

Philodendron verrucosum

Liana with soft creeping shoots. The leaf blades are heart-shaped, reach a length of 15-20 cm, a width of about 10 cm. Their surface is velvety, the color is dark green, with bronze-brown stripes running along the veins of a lighter shade.

Philodendron blushing Philodendron erubescens

The shoots stretch up to 1.8 m. The lower part becomes lignified, turning into a strong, vertically located trunk. The leaves are oblong, whole. Length – 30 cm, width – about 25 cm. The surface of the leaf plate is glossy, bright green in color, the reverse side has a reddish tint.

Philodendron ivy scandens Philodendron hederaceum or climbing philodendron Philodendron scandens

The length of the vine reaches 6 m, and is often grown as an hanging plant. The leaves are large (length - 15-30 cm, width - 10 cm), heart-shaped, elongated, whole.

A plant with an erect stem. The leaf blades are palmately divided, the edges are wavy. Their length is about 30 cm, the surface is glossy, bright green.

Philodendron Sello or bipinnate Philodendron selloum = philodendron bipinnatifidum

The height of the stem is about 3 m, gradually becoming woody. Heart-shaped leaf plates are attached to long petioles, the edges are notched. Their length can reach 90 cm. Color varies from light green to dark green.

Guitar-shaped Philodendron Philodendron panduriforme

The flexible stem reaches a length of 2 m and needs support. The shape of the leaf plate is similar to a guitar, the surface is glossy, dark green in color.

Lobed philodendron Philodendron pedatum or stop-shaped philodendron

The stem is thicker, but flexible. Heart-shaped leaf plates are attached to long petioles; at first they are whole, then cut into 5 lobes. They stretch 30-40 cm in length and have an emerald color.

Evans' Philodendron Philodendron x evansii

Hybrid form. The leaf plates are heart-shaped, incised, the edges are wavy, the surface is shiny. The dimensions are amazing: their length is 60-80 cm, width 40-50 cm. Young leaves have a green-brown color with veins of a bright green hue; as the leaf grows, it becomes dark green.

Philodendron radiatum

A fast-growing vine, reaching a length of 1.5-3 m. The leaf plates are dissected, rigid, and stretch 20 cm in length.

The only flexible shoot is covered with large leaves (length 45-70 cm). The leaf blades are oval-shaped, dissected, and painted dark green.

Philodendron xanadu Philodendron xanadu

Liana with woody stem. The leaf blades reach a length of 40 cm. They are soft, oblong, become pinnately dissected as they grow, and are painted bright green.

Philodendron squamiferum

A liana with leaves 25-30 cm long. They are attached to long petioles of a reddish hue, covered with scale-like hairs. The leaf blades are first cut into 3 lobes, then into 5, the posterior lobes are smaller. The tips of the blades are sharp.

Philodendron bipennifolium

The leaf blades reach a length of 40 cm. In young leaves, the division into blades is not clearly expressed, first there are 5 of them. The edges of the blades are rounded.

Philodendron spear-shaped Philodendron hastatum

A flexible vine that needs support. The length of the leaf plates is 35-40 cm, they have a light green color, and are shaped like an arrowhead or a spear.

Philodendron Martius Philodendron martianum or Philodendron cannifolium

Bush-shaped plant. The leaf blades are heart-shaped, oblong, whole, reach a length of 40-50 cm, the surface is glossy. They are attached to long thickened (swollen) petioles, which can reach a diameter of 7-8 cm.

Philodendron golden black or Andre Philodendron melanochrysum

A liana with large leaves reaching a length of about 60 cm. The color is green with a copper tint, the veins are white.

Pay attention to philodendron hybrids: Blue Mink, Purple Prince, Prince of Orange, Red Emerald.

Philodendrons are special plants both in the beauty of their rich green, shiny, most often carved leaves, and in their character. Finding a culture so suitable for placing in rooms is very difficult. Philodendrons love careful care and demonstrate all their qualities only under ideal conditions. And while there are a few tricks and tricks to growing philodendrons, they can easily make a friendly, durable addition to a collection, serving as space dividers and large green accents.

If we put together all the requirements of philodendrons for care and conditions, then it would be more correct to classify them not as plants that are easy to grow, but as crops of average complexity in agricultural technology. But for gardeners who are looking for large plants that combine a very beautiful appearance with durability, can be content with standard care and do not require constant care, philodendrons are one of the leaders among indoor giants.

Growing philodendrons is easy. The main thing is to remember the minimum acceptable requirements and preferences of the plant, constantly monitor its condition and the degree of drying of the soil. But there are also rules that will allow you to avoid mistakes and preserve the beauty and health of philodendrons for many years.

Secret No. 1. Individual approach

The main, and perhaps the most reliable advice that can be given (and received) when buying a philodendron is to be sure to study all the features of a particular species and even variety. After all, some varieties of these plants are more hardy than other varieties. And the “scatter” in the requirements for growing conditions and care for different types of philodendrons can be very large. Some plants are better adapted to indoor environments or specific locations than others.

So, shade tolerance is an excellent characteristic of the variety. philodendron ivy leaf (Philodendron hederaceum )- climbing philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum), which can be used for full-fledged landscaping in the back of the room. He can keep him company philodendron blushing (Philodendron erubescens), but other species grow better in a diffused light place and in partial shade.

Philodendron bipinnate(Philodendron bipinnatifidum) - with its almost meter-long beautifully cut leaves - not the best candidate for small rooms and apartments. In any case, when purchasing, it is worth checking how demanding your philodendron is regarding air humidity, what maximum size it can reach, and whether it is easy to control. With this check you will save yourself from dozens of problems.

Secret No. 2. Philodendron's shade tolerance has limits

Unless your philodendron is a shade-loving species or one that can tolerate less light, consider it a plant that needs good light. It is in such places that most species of these plants best reveal their beauty. Direct sunlight is contraindicated for any philodendron, but shading can only be light. When choosing a place in the room for your philodendron, try not to move too far from the window and stay within locations with good lighting.

Secret No. 3. Artificial lighting and natural light for philodendron

Philodendrons are unique plants. They can grow in completely artificial light as well as on a suitable windowsill. There is no need to be afraid of additional lighting. It is better to use this property for landscaping where the light is almost always on, but there is no source of natural light. In the corridor, bathroom, foyer, offices, transitions between rooms, philodendrons will open up good design prospects for you.

Secret No. 4. Add a couple of degrees to the minimum temperature

In recommendations for growing philodendrons you can often find a minimum permissible temperature of 13 degrees. It is better not to bring the situation to such a decline. Limit the winter temperature range to just 16 degrees. And then you will prevent most of the problems and difficulties that may arise in growing philodendrons.

As for the air temperature from spring to autumn, room temperatures will be comfortable for philodendrons (from 20 to 25 degrees). But higher rates are not. In order for philodendrons to remain highly decorative in the heat, you will have to make efforts to control more abundant watering and increase air humidity. But the main thing is to protect the plants from temperature changes. Do not place any heating devices near philodendrons, protect the plants from air conditioning and even ventilation in cold weather.

Just by stabilizing the temperature and monitoring the minimum indicators, you guarantee that the leaves on your philodendron will not become smaller, and growth and development will occur evenly.

Secret No. 5. “No” to flying on the balcony

Despite the fact that many indoor vines become even more beautiful after a summer spent outdoors, do not rush to classify philodendron as such a crop. Even climbing philodendrons do not like moving into the open sky or onto a balcony, let alone giants. The thing is that philodendrons do not tolerate drafts at all. And in the fresh air they will be constant even in the most protected places.

Secret No. 6. Stable soil moisture for philodendron at any time of the year

The substrate for any philodendron, regardless of the type, should always be slightly moist. Stable, constant soil moisture is the main guarantee that the plant will not give you any unpleasant surprises. The main rule for watering philodendrons is: the next watering is carried out after 1-2 cm of the substrate at the top of the pot has dried. And this rule is relevant for both summer and winter. But since the rate of drying (and plant consumption) of moisture will be different, the frequency of watering will accordingly change significantly.

Make it a rule to water your philodendron less abundantly in the cold season and use less water compared to summer and the active development phase of the plant. Water from the pallets is always drained immediately after watering.

Secret No. 7. Humidification of support and air

Most indoor philodendrons are vines. And for success in growing them, do not forget to moisten the supports (if, of course, you use the usual support for these plants, covered with moss or a synthetic substitute material). The support should never dry out completely.

But this is not all the moisture measures: philodendrons also love high air humidity, so additional measures need to be taken for the plant. Spraying is not the best option. For philodendrons, it is better to choose a simple method with a “handicraft” or home humidifier - placing stands or trays with moisture-retaining materials.

Do not forget to wipe the leaves from dust - any philodendron responds to such care with a brighter color.

Secret No. 8. Don't rush to replant your philodendron

Philodendrons belong to those indoor crops that do not need to be replanted annually, even at a fairly young age. The rate of growth of aerial parts does not always correspond to the growth of the rhizome. Increasing the size of the pot when replanting by 3-4 cm ensures that the philodendron will only need to be replanted after a year. And older plants can be replanted once every 3 years.

The optimal period is not February - early March, but late March - early April. When replanting, carefully ensure that the depth level remains the same and lay a new drainage. And for climbing philodendrons, any transplant is completed with a very simple procedure - pinching the ends of all elongated or simply too long shoots.

In years when the philodendron is not replanted, replace about 5 cm of the top of the substrate.

When choosing a substrate for philodendron, give preference to special mixtures for decorative deciduous crops. Other slightly acidic or neutral, coarse-grained, light, nutritious and loose soil mixtures are also suitable.

Secret No. 9. Be careful with philodendron fertilizer

Philodendrons are fertilized frequently and over an extended period. Feeding for this plant is carried out every 2 weeks, from March to September. But if philodendrons are transplanted, then feeding is not carried out for another 4-6 weeks after the procedure. The first feeding is carried out with a half-reduced dose and then, until the normal schedule of these procedures is resumed, another pause of one month is made. To find the ideal schedule, you need to monitor the plant.

With a lack of fertilizer, the philodendron becomes smaller, the leaves turn yellow and dry, growth is clearly slowed down, and the trunk is thinner than usual. When overfeeding, the tips of the leaves turn yellow and brown, the leaves become lethargic and lose their elasticity. Excess nitrogen is especially dangerous for philodendron, causing rapid growth (correspondingly, and vice versa, if you reduce fertilizing with nitrogen, plants can be controlled in growth).

When choosing fertilizers for philodendrons, do not be deceived by the beauty of their leaves: for this plant, not fertilizers for ornamental foliage crops, but complex universal fertilizers are better suited.

But the main rule of fertilizing philodendron concerns the procedure itself: always feed the philodendron after abundant watering. This is the only option for protecting the plant from high salt concentrations and the only way to feed the philodendron so that it does not perceive the feeding procedure as an excess of fertilizer in the soil.

Secret No. 10. Problems are always visible on philodendron leaves

If you water the philodendron incorrectly or overfeed, if you do not take measures to moisten it or if you select the wrong conditions (including lighting), your mistakes can lead to problems with the health of the plant. They always appear in philodendrons in the same way - on the leaves. Wilting, discoloration or other lesions in the form of signs of yellowing or drying out, rotting and discoloration are signs that you have made a mistake. And it’s time to analyze your care and make adjustments to it.

Secret No. 11. Beware of black spots on philodendron leaves

Inspection of the plant and constant monitoring of its condition should also include constant inspection of the underside of the philodendron leaves. And if during monitoring you find black spots, try to immediately analyze the possible cause and take action. Several reasons can lead to the appearance of black spots:

• excess humidity;
• infestation with mites or aphids;
• sooty fungus infection.

If you made mistakes with watering the philodendron and other measures, simply adjust the care, but insecticides and acaricides will help fight pests.

Secret No. 12. To propagate philodendron, choose the cutting method

It is the rooting of apical cuttings or parts of the stem with lateral shoots that is the easiest way to get a new philodendron. With the second cutting method, make sure that leaves develop on the side branches. For the first one, cut not short cuttings, but 12-15 cm long tops. In any case, it is better to root cuttings in moist peat or peat substrate in greenhouse conditions and with very strict temperature control: the permissible range is from 20 to 22 degrees.

Philodendrons are very diverse and are suitable for growing not only in greenhouses and winter gardens - there are many varieties for growing at home. And creating optimal conditions for maintaining and caring for a plant is a feasible task even for a beginner in floriculture.

Philodendron: is the plant suitable for the home?

Philodendron is one of the most popular plants in home floriculture; it belongs to the Araceae family. This is an evergreen, perennial plant. Since not all species are described, their number ranges from 250 to 900.

The name comes from two Greek words - phileo, which means to love, and dendron - tree. The name very accurately conveys the main feature of the plant, namely the ability to attach through its roots to nearby trees, which become a natural support for the philodendron. Essentially, the philodendron is a vine with a semi-herbaceous or woody stem. There are species that have a fairly powerful, stable stem, which allows the plant to rise to the desired height without support.

Philodendron attaches itself to trees using aerial roots.

The leaves, depending on the type, have different lengths - from 11 centimeters to 2 meters and a width of up to 90 centimeters. The location is next. The shapes are ovoid, arrow-shaped, heart-shaped, oval and other shapes. Philodendron has an interesting property - the same plant does not have a specific leaf shape. Young leaves are heart-shaped at first, but change size and shape as they grow. The color is mainly dark green, with the upper side of the leaf blade being more intensely colored than the lower. Less common are species with purple leaves. Mostly young leaves have a purple color, which lose this color as they grow.

Another interesting feature of the plant is that it has two types of leaves:

1. Scaly - it protects the vegetative bud. Such leaves are called cataphylls. They are permanent and deciduous.
2. An ordinary leaf located on a long petiole.

Traces of fallen leaves and cataphylls are visible on the philodendron trunk

Philodendron roots come in two types: aerial and underground. Thanks to the aerial roots of Philodendronattaches to a support and receives food and water. Aerial roots have slight differences, it all depends on their purpose. Those that hold the philodendron to the tree are short, numerous and covered with hairs. Feeding roots are longer and thicker and are able to penetrate under the soil. Very often these roots replace an underground root system that has been damaged and died.

The inflorescence is a spadix wrapped in a spathe, colored in shades of pink, purple, pale green and red. The flowers are bisexual. In greenhouse conditions they bloom more readily than when grown at home.

Philodendron inflorescences vary in color

Philodendron fruits ripen at different times, depending on the type, and are a berry with small seeds inside.

The sap of the plant is poisonous, so you should wear gloves when working with it.

Philodendron grows in tropical rainforests

Under natural conditions, the length of philodendron can reach more than 200 meters.

Philodendron has a beneficial effect on the room in which it is located, releasing phytoncides that fight microbes. NASA has included philodendron in the list of plants that purify the air.

Seasonal conditions of detention - table

Season	Humidity	Temperature	Lighting
Spring	Humidify the air around the plant. Spray the support. Place the flower on a tray with moistened expanded clay. Wipe the leaves from dust with a damp cloth (velvet just spray the leaves). Take a shower once a week.	Comfortable from 23 to 28 °C. In conditions of high humidity, it can withstand higher temperatures. It is recommended to grow only in well-ventilated rooms.	Provide bright, diffused light. Avoid direct sunlight.
Summer
Autumn	Spray regularly when heating appliances are on. Keep away from batteries. If the air temperature is below comfortable, avoid spraying.	Not lower than 15 °C. The soil temperature should be higher than room temperature. At temperatures below 12 °C the plant will die.
Winter

Features of planting and transplanting

Plant location

Philodendron is a shade-tolerant plant. But if there is insufficient lighting, the shoots will stretch, the leaves will become smaller, and varieties with variegated leaves will lose their color. Direct sunlight will also not be beneficial. The best option is to put the plant near the east window. If the windows face south, then it is better to hide the philodendron in the middle of the room.

Protect your philodendron from drafts!

The best place for the plant will be an east window

Landing rules

The new planting pot should be high enough and with a wide top, taking into account the fact that the aerial roots of philodendron can take root 5–7 cm higher than the previous one. Too large a pot can cause waterlogging of the soil, which is undesirable. Be sure to have drainage holes.

A tall pot is suitable for philodendron

In nature, philodendrons grow in soils that contain fallen leaves and rotted wood. When buying an earthen mixture in a store, you should opt for light soil for Saintpaulia. The main requirement for soil is good water and breathability. If you decide to make the mixture yourself, you will need:

• 3 parts garden soil;
• 2 parts peat;
• 4 parts orchid bark;
• 1 part perlite.

There is another option that includes:

• 1 part of turf land;
• 3 parts leaf;
• 1 part sand.

You can add horn shavings or bone meal to the soil mixture, which will make the soil more nutritious.

The finished mixture should be light and loose, easily permeable to water, with neutral or weak acidity pH 5.5–7.

Don't forget to prepare the support. You can buy it in a store, or you can make it yourself. For small plants, it is better to make a frame from rigid wire or install a trellis. For more impressive specimens, take a wooden stick, branch or piece of plastic pipe and wrap it with fibrous material or sphagnum moss. A philodendron climbing along a support will take up little space in the apartment.

The support must be kept damp. During the period of active growth, it is sprayed with highly diluted fertilizers.

Features of transplantation

Adult plants are replanted every 2–3 years, and young plants - annually. For specimens that are too large, you can renew the top layer of soil without replanting. To do this, remove 5 cm of the old soil and replace it with new one.

For large specimens, it is enough to annually change the top layer of soil to a new one

The best time to transplant philodendron is spring.

Transplantation is carried out in the following cases:

• The soil becomes compacted or covered with moss.
• Roots grow through drainage holes or leaves become smaller, indicating a cramped pot.
• Minerals accumulate excessively, appearing as white streaks on the soil.
• The presence of pests or signs of philodendron disease in the soil is observed. In this case, it is necessary to remove the old soil and cut off the diseased roots.

When replanting, do not forget to disinfect the soil by dousing it with boiling water or roasting it in the oven.

The plant should be replanted immediately after purchase.

Step by step transplant process:

1. Place a layer of drainage into the prepared pot.
2. Add a layer of soil on top.
3. Carefully remove the philodendron from the old pot, trying to preserve the earthen lump and not disturb the roots.
4. Place the plant in the center of the new pot along with its support. If you stick it in after planting, you can damage the roots.
5. Add soil from all sides, then spill it with water. The soil will settle and fill all the voids. Add the remaining soil and water again.
6. When planting, do not bury the root collar.

If you bought a philodendron in a store, then when you get home, carefully remove the plant from the pot and inspect the root system. If the roots have completely entwined the earthen ball, then replanting is necessary.

Philodendron transplantation using the transshipment method - video

Plant care

Watering

Residents of the rainforest, philodendrons, love moisture. In spring and summer, regular and abundant watering should be done, allowing the top layer of soil to dry slightly. Watering should be done with soft water at room temperature, which has stood for at least 6 hours. Tap water will lead to salinization or alkalization of the soil, which can cause the death of the plant. The best option would be rain or melt water.

In autumn, watering is gradually reduced. By winter - reduce it to a minimum, but do not allow the earthen clod to dry out.

The water from the pan should be drained after each watering.

Philodendrons love moisture.

Top dressing

For normal development, philodendron needs feeding. Young plants especially depend on them during active growth, but do not overfeed them, as excess fertilizer will cause poor formation of young foliage.

From March to September, adult plants are fed every week with complex mineral fertilizers diluted 2–3 times, or once every 2 weeks with the same fertilizers, but in the prescribed concentration. The composition of fertilizing should include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in equal proportions. Make sure that fertilizers do not contain calcium salts.

Organic fertilizers will bring a lot of benefits to philodendron. Manure diluted in water to a light straw color will be an ideal top dressing. It should be applied after watering.

Organic fertilizers should be alternated with mineral ones.

In winter, feeding the plants is not stopped, but only reduced to once a month. But if philodendron is kept at low temperatures, then feeding should be stopped.

The transplanted plant is not fertilized for six months.

For large tree-like philodendrons, well-rotted compost is added to the top layer of soil every summer.

Flowering at home

Philodendrons usually bloom in greenhouses or conservatories. It is almost impossible to achieve this phenomenon at home. However, there are species that can delight you with flowering at home. These include: Xanadu, Blushing, Scaly, Warty, Double-pinnate, Silver Queen. In order for a plant to bloom, you need to create an environment close to the natural conditions of the habitat: taking into account humidity, temperature, soil composition, properly selected fertilizers, lighting.

The philodendron flower pleases with its beauty for a very short time - just a day.

At home, philodendron practically does not bloom.

Rest period

In philodendrons, the dormant period is weakly expressed. It begins in the second half of December and lasts until the beginning of March. At this time, reduce watering and fertilizing the plant, but do not stop. The temperature is maintained within 20 ° C, the flower is kept in a bright place.

Errors in care and their elimination - table

Error	Cause	Elimination
The leaves begin to dry from the tips and become papery to the touch.	The indoor air is too dry.	Place the pot with the plant on a tray with wet expanded clay. Spray the leaves more often. In winter, place it away from batteries.
Dry light spots on the leaves.	Sunburn.	Protect the plant from direct sunlight.
Elongated shoots, small leaves, faded color.	Lack of light.	Place the plant in a brighter place.
Rotting of stems and shoots at the roots.	Combination of low temperature with high humidity, heavy soil.	Raise the room temperature or move the plant to a warmer location. Reduce the frequency of watering. Replace the soil with a lighter one.
The leaves curl.	Excess fertilizer in the soil.	Place the pot with the plant in a large container of water. Let the philodendron be well saturated with moisture. Then remove it and let the water drain. Repeat the process 2 times. Or place the plant under running water for 15 minutes. It is important that the water is at room temperature and that the pot has drainage holes. Maintain the correct concentration of fertilizers and frequency of fertilizing.
The apical leaves are small and yellow.	Lack of nutrients.	Increase plant nutrition.
The lower leaves turn yellow and die.	If this process is accompanied by the growth of young and healthy foliage, everything is in order.	The natural process of dying off old leaves.
The leaves turn black.	The effect of cold air.	Remove the philodendron from the draft and find a warmer place for it.
The leaves turn yellow and rust.	Massive yellowing of leaves indicates excessive watering and low temperatures.	Adjust watering to normal. Raise the room temperature.

An interesting feature of philodendron is the formation of liquid droplets at the tips of the leaves. They appear when the air humidity is high, for example, before rain. This phenomenon is called guttation. This may also indicate an excess of moisture.

Diseases and pests

Philodendron, like all aroids, very rarely gets sick. But on a plant that is not properly cared for, pests can settle, weakening the plant and leading to its death.

Philodendron pests and their control - table

Pests	Signs of defeat	Treatment	Prevention measures
	Small light brown tubercles are visible on the stems, in the leaf axils and on the leaves. Young larvae quickly spread throughout the plant.	Insecticides - Aktara or Actellik, strictly according to the instructions. It is best to process outdoors, using protection in the form of gloves and a gauze bandage. If the products are used indoors, be sure to open the window. After treatment, ventilate the room.	Mechanical removal using a cloth soaked in soapy water. Repeat the procedure after a few days until the pest completely disappears.
	On the underside of the leaf and on the apical shoots, clusters of gray, black or green insects are noticeable. They feed on the sap of the plant. If action is not taken, the philodendron may die.		If the infestation is minor, aphids can be removed using a sponge and soap solution.
	The affected plant is entwined with a light cobweb, on which a whole colony of mites is located. The color of insects is brown, green, red. They suck the juice from the plant, the leaves become covered with small white dots.		It’s good to wash off the pest with a warm shower (as much as your hand can tolerate). Increase the air humidity around the plant to at least 40%.
	Small winged insects up to 1.5 mm in size. A gray-brown coating forms on the affected leaves.		Wash off insects with soapy water. Remove the top 10 cm of soil, replacing it with new one, or replant the plant.
	Young shoots and leaves are affected. They become covered with cotton-like lumps. The affected parts turn yellow and fall off.		Treat the plant with a sponge soaked in alcohol. After 20 minutes, rinse the philodendron in the shower.

Harmful insects in the photo

A plant affected by a mealybug appears to be covered with small balls of cotton wool. Adult thrips and their larvae A plant affected by spider mites Aphids reproduce very quickly and can destroy the plant Stem affected by scale insects

Reproduction methods

Philodendron is very easily propagated by apical or stem shoots, cuttings, and air layering. Using an aerial root area is the easiest way to root a plant. You can try to propagate by seeds, but this method is more suitable for greenhouse farming.

The best time to propagate philodendron is spring.

Propagation by cuttings and leaves

1. Carefully cut off the selected apical or stem shoot with two or more leaves with a sharp knife.
2. Sprinkle the sections with crushed activated carbon and leave to dry for several hours.
3. Fill small pots with a mixture of peat and sand (perlite can be used instead of sand) in equal proportions or with sphagnum moss and moisten thoroughly.
4. Press the dried cuttings into the mixture by 3 cm or lay them on top so that the growth point is on top.
5. Make a greenhouse out of a plastic bag or glass jar and place it in a bright place. Temperature from 25 °C to 30 °C.
6. Every 2-3 days, briefly ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil.
7. After a month you can remove the cover.
8. When the cuttings have roots and 2 young leaves grow, they are transplanted into slightly larger pots and cared for like an adult plant.

Using the same method, you can root a leaf with aerial roots or a piece of heel. If you just cut off a leaf, you won’t be able to root it.

Rooted Philodendron cuttings

Philodendron, from which cuttings have been cut, rejuvenates and produces many new shoots.

Rooting air layering

It is very easy to propagate Philodendron by air layering. To do this, you need to select a shoot from a climbing philodendron and place it on a moistened peat substrate or sphagnum moss in a small pot. You can secure the shoot using a piece of bent wire, or by slightly digging it into the ground. After a month, the cuttings will take root and can be cut off from the mother plant.

You just need to put the shoot on moist soil and secure it

Planting a woody stem

A large plant with a woody trunk is propagated as follows:

1. Make small cuts on the stem and sprinkle them with Kornevin.
2. Moisten the moss and apply it to the cuts, wrap it in cellophane on top and tie it.
3. The moss must be hermetically sealed on all sides. If this cannot be achieved, you need to sometimes add water to it to keep it moist.
4. When the roots appear (they will be clearly visible through the cellophane), the top is cut off and planted in a pot, having first removed the bag of peat.
5. New shoots will soon appear on the remaining stem.

Rooting a woody stem - a method suitable for adult philodendrons

Growing from seeds

Tree-like forms reproduce using seeds. Use only fresh seeds - it is best to purchase them in specialized stores, checking the expiration date.

1. The seeds are soaked overnight in distilled water, then planted in a prepared mixture of peat and sand. Seeds cannot be covered with soil, they must be on the surface!
2. The container with the seeds is covered with a bag and placed in a bright place, avoiding direct rays of the sun. The ideal temperature is not lower than 28 °C.
3. The container is opened when 2-3 leaves appear on the seedlings - after about 7 weeks.
4. When the seedlings are 10 weeks old, they can be transplanted into separate pots.

Philodendron grown from seed - a rarity for home propagation

Almost all types of philodendron take root easily in water. But this method is not entirely suitable for the plant, since its root system must adapt to new conditions - the soil substrate.

Philodendron in indoor floriculture - video

1. Growing temperature: summer - 18 - 27°C, winter - cool rest period at a temperature of 17 - 20°C.

2. Lighting: shading from direct sunlight; philodendron can receive direct sunlight in the morning and evening in spring and summer. In autumn and winter there is bright lighting throughout the day.

3. Watering and air humidity: a well-moistened substrate during the growing season; in winter, in accordance with the air temperature in the room, the substrate is dried to half the depth or more between waterings. Air humidity increases with the onset of hot weather.

4. Trimming: Formative pruning is not required for most varieties. Sanitary is needed as needed, when it is necessary to remove old, yellowed leaves.

5. Priming: nutritious and loose substrate with a high organic content, with a neutral or slightly alkaline pH.

6. Top dressing: during the entire growing season - mineral fertilizers or organic matter every 2 weeks. In autumn, fertilizing is reduced, and in winter it is stopped completely. Resume fertilizing in the spring, when young leaves appear.

7. Reproduction: stem or apical cuttings in early spring, sowing seeds.

Botanical name: Philodendron.

Philodendron domestica - family . Araceae.

Homeland of the plant. Central America.

Description. Philodendron is an extensive and very diverse genus of plants in external characteristics, including about 500 species of vines and subshrubs, among which there are evergreen and deciduous species.

Many plants have long aerial roots on the stems.

Shape and size sheet plates extremely varied, as well as their shade. The leaf petioles are long.

During the flowering period, plants form inflorescences- cobs surrounded by thick blankets.

Height. Philodendron flower growing rapidly - per season capable of adding 50 - 100 cm height.

The final height of the plant varies greatly and depends on the specific species.

2.Philodendron care at home

2.1.Reproduction, growing from seeds

Philodendron reproduces at home stem cuttings 10 - 15 cm long with 2 - 3 internodes, in the spring And at the beginning of summer.

1. For planting, prepare small pots or disposable cups with drainage holes.
2. A drainage layer 2-3 cm high is placed at the bottom of the cups.
3. Fill the pots with a damp mixture of peat and coarse sand. The soil is moistened with a spray bottle.
4. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings and the bases are dusted with growth hormones.
5. Root under a glass or plastic cover for 1 month.

The plant reproduces successfully and seeds. Seedlings are kept away from direct sunlight at a temperature of about 26° C.

After sowing first shoots may already appear within 5 days.

2.2.Transplant

Plants transplanted in spring, young copies annually, A adults - every 3 years.

You should not place the philodendron in a large pot - excess soil not occupied by the roots accumulates excess moisture and the plant rots.

In large tub specimens annually change the top layer of soil for fresh spring.

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2.3.When it blooms

Philodendron grown as a houseplant rarely blooms at home, only with proper care.

2.4.Soil

Compost should good moisture permeability and be nutritious.

A mixture of garden soil with peat and leaf humus is suitable. Add coarse river sand to improve drainage.

The soil must have neutral or alkaline pH.

2.5.Diseases and pests

• The leaves are getting smaller, and the petioles become shorter and thinner with a lack of lighting.
• Yellowing of lower leaves indicates overwatering.
• The edges of the leaves dry out and turn brown when there is insufficient air humidity.
• When moisture stagnates plants rot.
• Leaf spot.
• Direct sunlight on the leaves provokes the appearance of burns.
• As plants age, they form a main trunk and begin bare the bottom- such philodendrons are pruned and the top is additionally rooted.

From pests Spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects can settle on plants.

Insects - pests

Insect name	Signs of infection	Control measures
	The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development	Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals: green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Spider mite	Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down.	Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik.
Scale insect and false scale insect	Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. When scale insects become widespread, they cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development	Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon.

Philodendron is undemanding and forgives many mistakes of novice flower lovers.

The stems of the vines are thin and for development need support.

To give the flower a neat appearance long stems Can trim in the warm season.

Wipe the leaves periodically use a damp sponge to remove dust.

Aerial roots Plants should be covered with soil if possible.

Delete old, yellowed leaves. Carry out pruning with a sharp and sterile instrument.

If possible place plants outside in the warm season, sheltering them from strong winds and rain.

You should not place philodendron near heating sources - it will dry out the edges of the leaves.

2.7.Watering

Watering should be abundant, but the soil should dry out at 1/3 depth before each next watering.

At cool winter The frequency of watering is significantly reduced.

The plant will tolerate short-term drought rather than excessive flooding.

2.8.Fertilizer

Feed liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.

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2.9.Lighting

Well lit location. Necessary shade from direct rays sun summer and spring, during the daytime.

in autumn And in winter when the sun is often hidden by clouds, it is worth providing maximum possible lighting.

When grown in partial shade, plants grow taller and become less attractive.

Philodendrons with carved leaves in insufficient light begin to develop entire leaf blades.

2.10.Temperature

This heat-loving plant prefers to be kept at normal room temperature throughout the year. As the temperature rises, the air humidity should also increase.

When the temperature drops, indoor philodendron slows down or stops altogether your height.

Possible during winter months cool dormant period, however Not expose plants to temperature below 15°C.

2.11.Spraying

When the temperature increases above 22° C, the air humidity should also be increased by spraying the leaves of the plant or placing it on a tray with wet pebbles.

2.12.Purpose

Elegant and undemanding plant for landscaping large offices and halls.

Good for vertical gardening and for growing in hanging baskets.

2.13.Note

All parts of the plant toxic, so be careful when working with it. Keep Philodendron away from children and pets.

The plant is capable purify indoor air from harmful impurities, such as formaldehyde.

2.14.Hydroponics

Grows well in hydroponics.

3.Types of Philodendron:

3.1.Philodendron elegans

A large, powerful vine with a flexible stem that rarely produces lateral shoots. It is distinguished by large, glossy, green, pinnately dissected leaves up to 45 cm long. A very airy plant.

3.2.Philodendron panduriforme

The leaves of this species are capable of changing shape with age. Young leaves are simple, heart-shaped, large and have a beautiful shape reminiscent of a guitar.

3.3.Climbing Philodendron or scandens - Philodendron scandens

An elegant vine with thin, non-branching shoots. The leaves are heart-shaped. There are varieties with variegated leaves with contrasting stripes.

3.4. Philodendron Scandens Brasil

Decorative deciduous vine with heart-shaped glossy leaves on short petioles, colored green with yellow stripes of varying thickness.

3.5.Philodendron erubescens

A liana with young leaves, leaf petioles have a red tint. One of the few species that blooms indoors. The flowering resembles a calla lily - a thin cylindrical spike consisting of small white flowers surrounded by a large bright red blanket.

3.6. Philodendron selloum or bipinnate - Philodendron selloum

A large openwork plant with large carved leaves, slightly reminiscent of a monstera. With age, this species forms a trunk and reaches 3 m in height, so its cultivation requires a spacious room.

3.7. Philodendron xanadu - Philodendron xanadu

Despite its external similarity with philodendron, cello is distinguished by its more compact size - it does not exceed a height of 1.2 m and a width of 1.5 m. The leaves are glossy, dark green, deeply cut, each can consist of 15 - 20 “fingers”. An interesting feature of the plant is that the base of the petiole of each leaf is wrapped in another hard, light green, strap-like leaf about 10 cm long, which falls off over time. When damaged, the leaves of this philodendron emit a pleasant pine aroma.

3.10.Philodendron Princess - Philodendron Princess pink

A unique decorative foliage plant with large glossy, dark green leaves, which darken with age and become covered with various shapes of spots and stripes of pink color. Young leaves have a brown tint. As the plants age, they form a small, thick trunk.

3.11.Philodendron micans

A beautiful liana with green leaves that are velvety to the touch. Young leaves are bronze in color with light green veins. A great plant for hanging baskets.

3.12. Warty Philodendron - Philodendron verrucosum

A large vine with large dark green, spear-shaped, glossy leaves. An interesting feature of the species is that the branched leaf veins are highlighted in a light green tint. Young leaves are tightly rolled into tubes and have a burgundy-brown tint.

3.13. Spear-shaped Philodendron - Philodendron hastatum

A large evergreen vine with bluish-green, green or silver-green leaves in the shape of an elongated spear.

3.14.Philodendron Red Emerald - Philodendron Red Emerald

A valuable evergreen ornamental foliage plant - a vine with large bluish-green leaves. There are variegated variations with leaves having white or pink spots and stripes. Leaf petioles are long, ribbed, burgundy. Young leaves also have a burgundy color.

3.15.Philodendron ornatum

An ornamental foliage plant with large heart-shaped dark green leaves on long petioles. Plants with silver-green or blue-green leaves are often found.

3.16.Philodendron squamiferum

An evergreen vine with large, deeply divided dark green, glossy leaves. Young leaves are simple, entire, and only with age do beautiful deep notches form. The leaf petioles are long, often covered with yellowish or pink scales. With age, the plants form a powerful trunk.

3.17. Philodendron perforatum or Monstera - Monstera

A small genus of perennial evergreen vines that contains about 20 plant species. Monstera is a very large and spectacular epiphytic plant that has well-developed aerial roots, with which it clings to support. The leaves are dark green, glossy, round, up to 45 cm in diameter, located on long petioles - up to 30 cm, young leaves are whole, large leaves become carved. The newly emerged leaves are rolled into a tight tube. During the flowering period, the monstera throws out an inflorescence - an ear up to 25 cm long, surrounded by a white blanket.

Many vines have long aerial roots hanging from the stems. Roots help plants cling to support and feed the upper leaves.

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