Rocket modeling is an activity that captivates not only children, but also adults and accomplished people, as can be understood by the composition of teams of athletes at the World Rocket Modeling Championship, which will be held in Lvov on August 23-28. Even NASA employees will come to compete. With rockets assembled yourself. In order to make the simplest current model DIY rockets, specialized knowledge and you don’t need any skills – it’s available on the Internet a large number of detailed instructions. Using them, you can make your own rocket, either from paper or from parts purchased at a hardware store. In this article we will take a closer look at what kind of rockets there are, what they are made of and how to make a rocket with your own hands. So, in anticipation of the Championship, you can get your own model and even take it into flight. Who knows, maybe by August you will decide to take part in the extra-class payload rocket launching competition “Save the Space Eggs” (held as part of the Championship) and compete for a prize fund of 4,000 euros.
What does a rocket consist of?
Any rocket model, regardless of class, necessarily consists of the following parts:
- Frame. The remaining elements are attached to it, and the engine and rescue system are installed inside.
- Stabilizers. They are attached to the bottom of the rocket body and give it stability in flight.
- Rescue system. Necessary to slow down the free fall of the rocket. It can be in the form of a parachute or a brake band.
- Head fairing. This is the cone-shaped head part of the rocket, which gives it an aerodynamic shape.
- Guide rings. They are attached to the body on one axis and are needed to secure the missile to the launcher.
- Engine. Responsible for the takeoff of a rocket and is even in the most simple models. They are divided into groups according to the total thrust impulse. You can buy a model engine at a craft store or assemble it yourself. But in this article we will focus on the fact that you already have a ready-made engine.
It is not part of the rocket, but the launcher is a must-have item. It can be purchased at finished form or assemble it yourself from a metal rod on which the rocket is attached, and trigger mechanism. But we will also focus on what launcher you have.
Classes of missiles and their differences
In this section we will look at the classes of rockets that you can see with your own eyes at the World Championship in Rocket Modeling in Lviv. There are nine of them, eight of them are approved by the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale as official for the World Championship, and one - S2/P - is open not only to athletes, but to everyone who wants to compete.
Rockets for competitions or just for yourself can be made from different materials. Paper, plastic, wood, foam, metal. A mandatory requirement is that the materials are not explosive. Those who are seriously involved in rocket modeling use specific materials that have best characteristics for missile purposes, but can be quite expensive or exotic.
An S1 class rocket must demonstrate in competition best height flight. These are one of the simplest and smallest rockets that take part in competitions. S1, like other missiles, are divided into several subclasses, which are designated by letters. The closer to the beginning of the alphabet, the lower the total thrust impulse of the engine, which is used to launch the rocket.
S2 class rockets are designed to carry a payload, according to FAI requirements, a "payload" can be something compact and fragile, with a diameter of 45 millimeters and a weight of 65 grams. For example, a raw chicken egg. A rocket can have one or more parachutes, with the help of which the payload and the rocket will return to the ground safe and sound. S2 class rockets cannot have more than one stage and they must not lose a single part during flight. The athlete needs to launch the model to a height of 300 meters and land it in 60 seconds. But if the cargo is damaged, the result will not be counted at all. So it's important to strike a balance. The weight of the model with the engine should not exceed 1500 grams, and the weight of the fuel components in the engine should not exceed 200 grams.
S3 rockets may look exactly like S1 rockets to the uninitiated, but their competition goals are different. S3 are rockets for the duration of descent using a parachute. The specificity of the competition in this class is that the athlete needs to carry out three rocket launches, using only two rocket models. Accordingly, at least one of the models still needs to be found after launch, and they often land several kilometers from the launch zone.
For models of this class, parachute diameters usually reach a diameter of 90-100 centimeters. Common materials are fiberglass, balsa wood, cardboard, the nose is made of lightweight plastic. The fins are made of lightweight balsa wood and can be covered with fabric or fiberglass.
The S4 class is represented by gliders that must remain in flight for as long as possible. These are “winged” devices, whose appearance quite seriously different from what can be expected from a rocket. They rise into the sky using an engine. But it is forbidden to use anything in gliders that will give them acceleration or in any way affect soaring; the device must stay in the sky solely due to its aerodynamic characteristics. The materials for such rockets are usually balsa wood, the wings are made of fiberglass or foam, and balsa wood too, that is, everything that weighs almost nothing.
The S5 class of rockets are copy rockets, their flight goal is altitude. The competition takes into account not only the quality of the flight, but also how accurately the participant was able to replicate the body of a real rocket. These are basically two-stage models with a massive launch vehicle and a very narrow nose. They usually go towards the sky very quickly.
S6 class rockets are very similar to S3 class rockets, but they eject a drag band (streamer) during flight. In fact, it serves as a rescue system. Since rockets of this class must also stay in the air for as long as possible, the competition participant’s task is to create the lightest and at the same time strong body. Models are made from parchment or fiberglass. The bow is made of vacuum plastic, fiberglass, paper, and the stabilizers are made of lightweight balsa wood, which is coated with fiberglass for durability. Belts for such missiles are usually made of aluminized lava. The tape should flap intensively in the wind, resisting falling. Its dimensions usually range from 10x100 centimeters to 13x230 centimeters.
S7 class models require very painstaking work. Like the S5, these models are multi-stage copies of real rockets, but unlike the S5, they are evaluated in flight by how plausibly they replicate the launch and flight of a real rocket. Even the colors of the rocket must match the “original”. That is, this is the most spectacular and difficult class, don’t miss it at the World Model Rocket Championship! Both juniors and adults will compete in this class on August 28th. The most popular rocket prototypes are Saturn, Ariane, Zenit 3, and Soyuz. Copies of other rockets also take part in competitions, but as practice shows, they usually demonstrate worse results.
S8 are radio-controlled cruise missiles. This is one of the most diverse classes; the designs and types of materials used differ significantly. The rocket must take off and make a gliding flight within a certain time. Then it needs to be planted in the center of a circle with a diameter of 20 meters. The closer to the center the rocket lands, the more bonus points the participant will receive.
Class S9 - rotorcraft aircrafts, and they also compete with each other in terms of time spent flying. These are lightweight models made of fiberglass, vacuum plastic and balsa wood. Without an engine they often weigh about 15 grams. The most intricate part of this class of rockets are the blades, which are usually made of balsa and must have the correct aerodynamic shape. These rockets do not have an escape system; this effect is achieved due to the autorotation of the blades.
At competitions, rockets of this class, as well as classes S3, S6 and S9, must have a diameter of at least 40 millimeters and a height of at least 500. The higher the subclass of the rocket, the larger its dimensions must be. In the case of the most compact S1 rockets, the body diameter should not be less than 18 millimeters, and the length should not be less than 75% of the length of the rocket. These are the most compact models. In general, each class has its own restrictions. They are set out in the FAI (Fédération Aéronautique Internationale) code. And before flight, each model is checked to ensure it meets the requirements of its class.
Of all the rockets taking part in the current Championship, only the models of the S4, S8 and S9 classes are required to ensure that none of their parts separate during flight, even on the recovery system. For others this is acceptable.
How to make a simple and functional rocket model from scrap materials
The easiest rockets to make at home are the S1 class, and the S6 class is also considered relatively simple. But in this section we will still talk about the first. If you have children, you can make a model rocket together or let them make it themselves.
To make the model you will need:
- two sheets of A4 paper (it is better to choose a multi-colored one so that the rocket looks brighter, the thickness of the paper is approximately 0.16-0.18 millimeters);
- glue;
- polystyrene foam (instead, you can use thick cardboard from which boxes are made);
- a piece of thin polyethylene, at least 60 cm in diameter;
- ordinary sewing threads;
- stationery eraser (as for money);
- rolling pin or other object of a similar shape, the main thing is that with smooth surface and with a diameter of about 13-14 centimeters;
- a pencil, pen or other object of a similar shape with a diameter of 1 centimeter and another with a diameter of 0.8 centimeters;
- ruler;
- compass;
- engine and launcher if you plan to use the rocket for its intended purpose.
On the drawings, of which there are a lot on the Internet, you can find rockets with different ratios the length and width of the body, the “sharpness” of the head fairing and the dimensions of the stabilizers. The text below shows the dimensions of the parts, but if you want, you can use other proportions, as in one of the drawings in the gallery below. The procedure still remains the same. Look at these drawings (especially the last one) if you decide to assemble the model according to the instructions.
Frame
Take one of the stored sheets of paper, use a ruler to measure 14 centimeters from the edge (if your volume is not as large as ours, just add another couple of millimeters to your figure, they will be needed to glue the sheet together). Cut it off.
Roll the resulting piece of paper around a rolling pin (or whatever you have). The paper should fit perfectly to the object. Glue the sheet directly on the rolling pin so that you get a cylinder. Let the glue dry while you begin making the head fairing and tail section of the rocket.
The head and tail of the rocket
Take a second sheet of paper and a compass. Measure 14.5 centimeters with a compass and draw a circle from two diagonally located corners.
Take a ruler, place it on the edge of the sheet near the beginning of the circle and measure a point on the circle at a distance of 15 centimeters. Draw a line from the corner to this point and cut out this section. Do the same with the second circle.
Glue cones from both pieces of paper. Trim the top of one of the cones by about 3 centimeters. This will be the tail section.
To glue it to the base, make cuts on the bottom of the cone approximately every centimeter and 0.5 centimeters deep. Bend them outwards and apply glue to inner side. Then glue it to the rocket body.
To attach the head fairing, you need to make a “ring”, thanks to which it will be attached to the base. Take a sheet of the same color that you used for the base and cut out a 3x14 centimeter rectangle. Roll it into a cylinder and glue it together. The diameter of the ring should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the base of the rocket so that it fits perfectly into it. Glue the ring to the rocket head the same way you glued the base (just don't cut anything off the cone this time). Insert the ring with the other side into the base of the rocket to check if you got the diameter right.
Let's go back to the tail section. The rocket needs to be stabilized and a compartment for the engine must be made. To do this, you need to again take the paper from which you made the base of the rocket, cut out a 4x10 cm rectangle, find an oblong and round object with a diameter of about 1 cm and wrap a piece of paper around it, having previously smeared glue over the entire area so that you end up with a dense multi-layer cylinder . Make 4 mm cuts on one side of the cylinder, bend them, apply glue to the inside and glue them to the tail section.
The rocket must have stabilizers at the bottom. They can be made from thin sheets of foam or, if you don’t have it, thick cardboard. You need to cut out four rectangles with sides 5x6 centimeters. From these rectangles, cut out the clamps. You can choose any shape at your discretion.
Please note that the head fairing, tail cone and engine compartment must be aligned exactly along the longitudinal axis of the body (should not be tilted away from the body).
Rescue system
In order for a rocket to return smoothly to the ground, it needs an escape system. This model is about a parachute. Ordinary thin polyethylene can act as a parachute. You can take, for example, a 120-liter bag. For our rocket, you need to cut a circle with a diameter of 60 centimeters in it and secure it to the body using slings (length approximately 1 meter). There should be 16 of them. Strong threads are suitable for the role of slings. Attach the lines to the parachute using tape at equal distances from each other.
Fold the parachute in half, then in half again, then squeeze it.
To secure the parachute, take another thread, the length of which should be twice the length of the body. Glue it to the engine compartment between the two stabilizers. Tie an elastic band to the thread in two places, so that if you pull the thread, the elastic band will stretch, and the thread will limit the stretching (recommendations: tie the elastic band to the thread at a distance of 5 centimeters from the top edge of the body).
Before stowing the parachute in the rocket, you need to place a wad. For example, a piece of cotton wool (or soft paper, napkins) can act as a wad. Make a ball out of the material you like and insert the rockets inside. If you have talcum powder, sprinkle it with talcum powder to prevent possible fire from the charge. The wad should not be inserted tightly, but the amount of cotton wool should be sufficient to push out the rescue system.
Insert it inside the rocket, then put the parachute and lines. Carefully use rings so that they don’t get tangled.
A streamer can also act as a rescue system, and if you want to make an S6 class rocket, then you can see how to lay it down and tie it down in these photographs.
Attaching to the launcher and launching
Cut out two rectangles 1.5 x 3 centimeters. Twist them into a cylinder with a diameter of approximately 0.8 centimeters so that the launcher mount fits freely through these cylinders. Glue to the base of the rocket on one axis at a distance of a few centimeters from the top and bottom of the base.
Install the engine into the engine bay. Ready to go!
To start, you need a metal rod with a length of at least a meter and a diameter of 4-5 millimeters. It must be strictly vertical to the ground. Regardless of any conditions, the end of the rod must be at a height of at least 1.5 meters from the ground to avoid injury to the eyes.
Never try to launch a rocket at home! Even such a seemingly innocent device can cause a lot of trouble indoors. The distance from the launch site to the nearest houses must be at least 500 meters.
After igniting the engine, move away from the rocket at least 3-5 meters. Spectators, if any, should be at a distance of 10-15 meters. If you plan to entrust the launch to a child under 16 years old, be sure to be close to him.
P.S.
Despite the fact that making the simplest paper rocket is not at all difficult, rocket modeling is a serious and interesting view a sport that requires a lot of work and a lot of time. And also very spectacular. Against the backdrop of growing interest on the part of private companies in space exploration, popularizing this topic among the population, especially children, is extremely promising. After all, those who have been attracted to space since childhood, a larger share likely to choose it as a field of activity in adulthood. If in Ukraine several decades ago the topic of space had not been so popular among children, then it would be unlikely that now in our country there would be people and companies like those who invest money in such a promising industry as space. An event on the level of the Model Rocketry World Championship could not take place - because there would be no strong teams and no great desire to stir up interest in the industry among future generations. We have already written about how interesting the Championship promises to be. There, by the way, it will be possible to assemble a rocket yourself from finished parts. Come to Lviv and see everything with your own eyes. Detailed information information about the event can be found on its
Protests against Syrian President Bashar al-Assad in March 2011 turned stubborn and bloody civil war, during which more than 250,000 people have already been killed, hundreds of thousands of people have become refugees and much of the country lies in ruins. Several opposition, terrorist, gangster groups and violent Islamic State jihadists across the country continue to fight President Assad's government forces with whatever weapons they can get their hands on.
Today we will look at what weapons oppositionists and terrorists are using to fight against government troops in Syria.
Vulcan - a homemade rocket mortar made of four pipes attached to an excavator.
Homemade projectiles made from gas cylinders, the flight range of such a projectile is up to 3 kilometers.
Another homemade mortar that fires projectiles from gas cylinders. One person can handle such a mortar, load it and fire a shot.
Homemade Syrian cannon, transported by an ordinary tractor.
The Free Syrian Army fires homemade slingshot missiles at President Bashar al-Assad's government forces.
Militants fire at Syrian government troops from homemade gun, which is easy to place in small streets between residential buildings.
Shot from a homemade rocket launcher. Syria, Aleppo.
Sham-2 - homemade armored vehicle, made on the basis passenger car, belongs to militants of the Al-Ansar brigade. The Sham-2 is equipped with a machine gun.
The homemade armored vehicle is equipped with a camera and a monitor, and the machine gun is controlled by a joystick from a game console, similar to a game shooter.
"Sham-2" inside. The creators are proud of their invention.
A huge homemade sniper rifle of a Free Syrian Army militant from Damascus.
Protected steel sheets a truck with explosives drove into the wall of Aleppo prison in February 2014. Then more than 300 militants of the terrorist organization Jabhat al-Nusra managed to escape from the central prison.
Militants make homemade mortar shells. an old house in Aleppo, Syria.
Another makeshift workshop of militants in Syria.
Installation of a homemade mortar on one of the fronts in Damascus. The militants use an iPad tablet to determine the temperature.
At one of the factories in Aleppo, terrorists are turning shells on machines.
Terrorists use a homemade catapult to launch a bomb at government forces of President Bashar al-Assad in the city of Aleppo.
Sham-1 is a homemade vehicle armored with iron sheets.
In one of the courtyards of the city of Lataki, militants are making homemade rockets.
Homemade gas masks for militants.
A retired officer puts on a homemade gas mask made from a plastic bottle, gauze, coal, cotton and cardboard.
Homemade gun.
Homemade rockets.
Homemade bombs. New Year's toy.
Homemade mortar.
A homemade bomb is ignited by a simple cigarette and launched using a catapult.
The design of the catapult is simple: a large slingshot and a long elastic band. The more you pull, the further the projectile flies.
shot from a homemade cannon.
A militant makes a mortar shell on a lathe.
The workshop creates new weapons for militants of a terrorist organization.
DIY mortar shells.
terrorists launch homemade missiles at the Syrian government forces of Bashar al-Assad.
Piece metal pipe serves as a hand grenade launcher.
The militants paint homemade rockets at home.
This is already a full-fledged homemade artillery mount on wheels.
Homemade militant grenades.
Homemade mortar.
Homemade rocket launcher.
...
The militants are real masters of weapons making, they can create guns like these that cause considerable damage.
Another miracle of weapons manufacturing.
Double-barreled shotgun.
A child in a workshop where homemade mortar shells are produced.
). When soda is added to vinegar, intense secretion begins carbon dioxide, which we can observe in the form of thousands of bubbles and foam formed.
NaHCO 3 + CH 3 COOH → CH 3 COONa + H 2 O + CO 2
soda + acetic acid → sodium acetate + water + carbon dioxide
In cooking (baking), this reaction of soda with acetic acid is often encountered. The carbon dioxide released into the dough “inflates” it, making it porous and “airy”.
But how can the reaction of acetic acid and baking soda be used to create a rocket? Now we will find out and consider this using the example of creating a simple chemical rocket. Let's get started...
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT:
Plastic bottle 0.5 liters, sticks or pencils (3 pcs.), baking soda, table vinegar 9%, paper clip, tape, cork (preferably rubber chemical, but wine will also work), tea bag, tapes(not necessary).
MANUFACTURE:
Step 1.
We glue the legs of our rocket to the bottle with tape. As support legs, you can use pencils of the same length or cut out identical branches.
Step 1 a. (optional)
We glue the ribbons with tape to stabilize the flight. Why optional?! From experience we found out that with ribbons the rocket flies much lower due to greater air resistance.
Step 2.
Open the tea bag and pour out its contents. Pour baking soda into an empty tea bag. We tie the bag so that the soda does not spill out. You should get a bag of soda so thick that it can easily fit into the neck of a plastic bottle.
Step 3.
Attach the soda bag to the cork using a paper clip.
Watch the video, which shows in detail how to make such a rocket...
PREPARATION FOR FLIGHT AND LAUNCH:
Step 4.
Fill the bottle with vinegar to a third of its volume (approximately 150 ml).
Step 5.
Carefully, so that the soda does not spill into the bottle with vinegar, insert the bag of soda and tightly plug the neck of the bottle with a stopper.
IMPORTANT: The cork should fit very tightly, with effort, into the bottle. To do this, you need to select a cork of appropriate thickness. The stronger the cork holds, the greater the pressure created inside the bottle during the chemical reaction, and the higher our rocket will fly.
Step 6.
We turn our rocket upside down. In this case, the vinegar comes into contact with the soda bag and a chemical reaction begins to occur with copious discharge carbon dioxide.
About chemical reaction see the interactions between vinegar and baking soda here
Step 7
We wait about a minute until enough gas has formed to shoot the plug. As a result of the reaction, more and more carbon dioxide is released into the bottle. Because The plugged cork prevents this gas from escaping, and the gas pressure inside the bottle increases. When critical pressure is reached, the cork, along with the contents of the bottle, is shot down. Under the influence of jet thrust, the rocket flies upward.
This rocket flies quite high! With a tightly driven plug, the rocket takes off to a height of 20-30 meters (height 9 storey building~ 27 meters).
IMPORTANT:
Rocket tests should only be carried out at outdoors! The vinegar has a strong smell and when started it splatters everywhere.
Do not stand close to the rocket during launch!
Do not point the rocket at people or animals!
Under no circumstances should you lean your face over a loaded rocket “just to have a look” or “to see why it doesn’t take off for a long time”!
By observing these simple rules you can launch your own rocket in a fun and risk-free way. Good luck!
How did the test of our rocket go in field conditions see below...
Making a homemade punching bag with your own hands.
How to make a barbell
Making a homemade barbell at home with your own hands.Homemade wooden barbell stand
We make a bench press rack from boards and timber. Simple manufacturing, rack drawings.How to make a homemade punching bag
About how to make a punching bag with your own hands, using the same technology you can make a homemade punching bag.Homemade snow scooters
Making homemade snow scooters, snowboards and others sports equipment to go down the mountain.DIY barbell
How homemade barbell from scrap materials. A simple simulator for a summer house or installation in the yard near the house.Homemade sports ground
How to make a homemade one sports ground with your own handsHow to make dumbbells
Homemade dumbbells for home, how to make a homemade barbell - pump up your muscles.Homemade speed sled
A sled for downhill skiing that not only allows you to reach speeds of up to 150 km/h, but also allows you to control them both while moving and during flight after jumping from a springboard.Homemade exercise machines
Making a horizontal bar with your own hands, a homemade exercise machine for the latissimus dorsi muscles, the simplest sports equipment can be made by anyone. Almost any person is capable of inventing one or another device, including one for sports purposes. However, it should be taken into account that we are surrounded by a great variety of ready-made equipment and training equipment. So, for example, in the absence of an expander, its role can be perfectly performed by a hemostatic rubber tourniquet or rubber bandage, sold in pharmacies. To increase the load, several tourniquets are used or a medical bandage is folded in several layers, and in their absence, the expander will be replaced by elastic training pants or tights, the stretching amplitude of which, unfortunately, is not very large.
An excellent raw material for the manufacture of a rubber shock absorber is an old automobile inner tube, from which the ring elements of the shock absorber are cut. They can be used independently or they can be mounted on specially made handles. Such shock absorbers stretch well and do not tear.
From car camera easy to make a weight by cutting unnecessary part and cutting through 4 handles, after which wet sand, pebbles or crushed stone are poured into the weight-bag.
A kettlebell with lacing can be made from tarpaulin by placing a plastic bag with a weight filling in it. An ordinary stick is used as a handle. The weight can be made from any metal blank by welding the handle. If such a weight is uncomfortable and puts pressure on the forearm, then it is covered with a soft fabric cover.
A good sports equipment will be made from a wooden “headstock” used to compact the soil. It is a log with a handle nailed to the end. With it, you can pump up your biceps and perform deadlifts, and to increase weight, you can either soak it in water or stuff additional weights onto a log.
If you insert a handle into a piece of a hollow log or a metal blank, you will get a completely new projectile.
Such Sports Equipment can be performed with removable disks.
Another unusual projectile is a steel cylinder with an adjustable handle. By rearranging the handle, the physical shoulder is lengthened or shortened, changing the load on the muscles. Another sports equipment for training biceps works in a similar way.
Discs are installed on a special armrest with a handle and a bar, with the ability to move them and fix them along the entire length of the bar using locks.
As a rule, beginners purchase inexpensive solid ball dumbbells. But after a few months they turn out to be unusable due to their low weight. Replaceable weights will help correct the situation, each of which consists of two halves, fixed together with bolts.
It is very easy to make a dumbbell from a pipe, the ends of which are sawn and bent, and large ones are suitable as a load. cans from tomato paste with a volume of 3 liters, filled with cement.
More complex, but more convenient to use, is a dumbbell, consisting of a handle to which metal boxes with three compartments in each are welded.
The compartments are made to fit the size of the bricks and are closed with a common lid. The weight of such a dumbbell can be changed by adding or reducing the number of bricks. For professionals who work muscles with heavy weights and under different angles, a dumbbell is suitable, the handle of which is installed under any required angle.
A barbell can be considered like a large dumbbell and the same techniques apply to making it as for making a dumbbell. To make a simple neck, just use a crowbar, or in its absence, a piece water pipe. Wooden plugs are driven into both sides of the pipe, after pouring shot, small pebbles or sand inside.
Restrictors are installed on the pipe in the form of bushings with clamps and simple locks are made, also in the form of bushings with a threaded lock. Discs for the rod are made either from suitable waste metal, or poured from cement into a special mold, or made from wood. You can increase the weight of a wooden disk using dumbbell weights mounted on the disk rods.
For additional fixation of weights, simple locking elements can be used. A convenient rod will be made from a metal box to which a U-shaped pipe is welded.
The geometry of the curved pipe is measured in advance based on the height of the bench on which the bench press is done and the height of the athlete’s chest. Any heavy objects, be it stones or light sports equipment, are placed in the box. If you make the U-shaped pipe extendable, you can perform squats with weight while standing on a bench.
Bent barbells are used to work out various muscle bundles. Not everyone can afford this at home. But to make special devices Anyone can use barbells.
Having decided on the shape of the nozzle and the diameter of the neck, it is ordered from any metal craftsman.
If an athlete has any sports equipment, then for a variety of exercises with them, appropriate devices are made that add up the weight of the equipment. So, for exercises with weights, a holder is made that allows you not only to add up the weights, but also to train by performing various grips.
By installing weights on a homemade bar, you will get an almost real barbell. 
A device that is a support, on the axis of which a beam with handles is installed, is perfect for deadlifts, presses, and squats. 
On load-bearing beam holes are made for weights or other loads, by rearranging which the required load is achieved. 
A homemade expander is made from door springs, connecting them in two pieces along the length, and the handles are copied from a factory expander. If the force has increased, but there are no more springs, then rubber shock absorbers are passed inside the springs, which increase total load and don't get tangled. To use an expander as a “block”, a wide hook-holder is bent from metal. By combining an expander and a dumbbell or an expander and a barbell in one design, one achieves the summation of the loads produced by each of the sports equipment.
To make block devices, you will need pulleys - wheels with grooves for a cable or rope, which are secured to an axle. Removable pulleys can be attached to hooks. Interesting combinations can be achieved by attaching pulleys to a bench or footrest. A mushroom rod is used to attach the disks to the block, and single or double hooks are used for weights and dumbbells. 
Everyone knows how to make a crossbar. But few people know where to get the bars. After all, push-ups with or without weights are one of the main exercises. Perfect as bars kitchen table, between the legs of which spacers are inserted.
Without spacers, the legs will break. You can also do push-ups from two tables or cabinets, and if they have different heights, then alternate push-ups, turning 180 degrees. Two sticks can serve as bars, preferably with flat ends. 
Placed on the windowsill and table, they will become an excellent folding exercise machine. The most simple beams They are two chairs with their backs facing each other. But this design is not stable. Therefore, we can recommend fastening the backs of the chairs with a board with slots for the backs. The board may have several slots to accommodate different grip widths for push-ups. 
For push-ups from the floor, use special straight or beveled stands. They can be made from wood or metal. They allow you to work your pectoral muscles very well with deep push-ups. Stands are used for various types push-ups, including wall racks.
The rope turns into a static simulator, which can not only be stretched, but with which you can even “do push-ups” either in a given position, or by doing push-ups and at the same time releasing the rope held by your hands. Best friend athlete's book will also serve as a support and a static expander for the pectoral muscles and biceps. 
The tree branches will turn into a “natural block”, affecting both the development of the latissimus dorsi muscles and the arm muscles. 
Well, hands, for example, can be trained with any objects at all, be it a bicycle tire, a piece of rubber mat or plastic bottle.
CONCLUSION: When training at home, it is important not to be afraid to experiment; you need to look for new ways to work out certain muscle groups, design previously unknown simulators, sports equipment and devices.