Do-it-yourself horizontal laying of lining. How to install a wooden lining with your own hands

Do-it-yourself installation of lining is quite simple, you just need to strictly follow the instructions.

Modern wall paneling is produced in accordance with European standards, has an aesthetic appearance and high quality indicators.

Installation of lining is used for both external and internal wall decoration of residential premises.

At the same time, this material can serve not only as an element of decor, but also act as a heat and sound insulating layer.

Depending on the climatic conditions of the room, the walls of which are to be finished, the type of decorative material and the method of working with it are selected.

For example, for areas with high humidity, it is recommended to install lining made of PVC material.

But for decorating a bedroom or living room, a lining made of natural wood is the best fit, which has the ability to saturate the atmosphere of the room with a pleasant aroma.

Stages of wall cladding with wooden clapboard

It is enough to learn more about how the installation of a wooden lining takes place with your own hands.

After a while, a cold house made of reinforced concrete will turn into a comfortable, warm and cozy home.

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to stock up on building materials and a set of tools.

In addition to wood paneling, you will need:

• hydro- and heat-insulating materials;
• processing solutions (stain, paint, varnish);
• fixing parts (anchors, nails, self-tapping screws, brackets);
• plumb bob, screwdriver, hammer, drill.

Preparing panels for installation:

• In order to avoid the appearance of fungus on the wooden lining, we cover the panels with a special antiseptic substance;
• We dry the material, after which the lining should lie in the room where the lining is planned. The need is caused by the impact on the material of the climate of the room, as a result of which, its shrinkage will be excluded.

If the climate in the room is too dry, then wood tinting compounds are used before installation.

Thus, the width of the panels will not become narrow.

We determine the direction in which the installation of the lining will take place, since the beam of the crate will have to be perpendicular.

Vertical mounting of the lining will visually make the ceiling higher, but the lining, installed in a horizontal position, will expand the room.

For the manufacture of the supporting structure, you can use wooden slats or a metal profile.

With vertical installation of panels, we fix the first lath of the crate under the ceiling, in a horizontal position.

With the help of a level, we beat off a line parallel to it, for the device of brackets.

Then we mount the brackets in increments of 0.5 m (using a drill and self-tapping screws).

We install a rail into the connector of the brackets, fix it with self-tapping screws through the side holes.

All battens of the crate must be in the same plane, set according to the level mark.

The exact location of the next rail is determined by a plumb line fixed on the first beam. The remaining installation steps are carried out similarly to the installation of the first rail.

To ensure air circulation under the panels, the gap between the vertical bars is made at least 50 cm.

Features of wall insulation for lining

The technology of wall insulation with heat-insulating material provides for the use of beams with a thickness of at least 5 cm in the crate.

This way of working can provide a spatial zone for laying insulation.

Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation. The rolled material is cut into pieces and put into the crate.

If necessary, fix the mineral wool with glue or mounting fasteners. The voids between the segments of the heat-insulating layer are filled with mounting foam.

To exclude the formation of condensate, during the operation of the premises, will allow a layer of waterproofing.

It is applied over the insulation, with a rough texture inward.

Do-it-yourself installation of wooden cladding panels

Before proceeding with the wall cladding with wooden material, we choose the method by which the lining is installed:

• Method number 1. Fastening panels to the crate using nails or a construction stapler. The option with nails will require the additional use of a doboynik - to completely drown the hats in the wood;
• Method number 2. The use of kleimers - the option with brackets is used for mounting thin-walled lining. The method is simple: the planks are alternately fixed with brackets to the wall using self-tapping screws, while each subsequent plank hides the fastening of the previous one.

Having chosen the appropriate installation technique, we proceed to the actions. With vertical wall cladding, the lining begins to be fixed from the corner of the room.

In the case of using horizontal plating, it begins to be installed from top to bottom.

So that moisture and dust do not get into the grooves during the operation of the room, during the fastening process, the panels are placed with the grooves down.

The lining is mounted using a level that allows you to determine the evenness of the future wall.

The final panel is adjusted to the desired size with a hacksaw.

The space between the floor and the lining is covered with a plinth; special strips are used to decorate the joints.

Which installation method to choose depends only on the preferences of the master.

Fastening PVC panels to the frame of the crate

Installation of plastic lining takes place in the same sequence as the wooden one.

Do-it-yourself installation of a plastic lining begins with the installation of a supporting structure on a wall, made on the basis of wooden beams or a metal profile. Then they proceed to the marking and installation of the PVC lining on the frame.

Sometimes, with the ideal evenness of the walls, the mounting of PVC plastic panels is carried out directly on them. The phenomenon is quite rare.

At the slightest flaws in the main supporting structure, they construct a crate.

For installation, in addition to PVC panels, you will need additional components:

• starting, corner and connecting profile;
• plinth for ceiling and floor;
• construction stapler, staples, galvanized self-tapping screws with a hemispherical cap.

Installation of PVC sheets starts from the corners of the room. Self-tapping screws to the frame of the crate are attached to the starting corner profile.

A sheet of plastic lining is adjusted to the desired size and installed with the spiked side into the corner panel.

Applying the level, control the correct vertical installation, and then fix the panel.

Existing methods for fixing PVC panels can be carried out using:

• construction stapler and staples;
• self-tapping screws, with a hemispherical head and a press washer;
• special fasteners for plastic panels.

The installation of all subsequent plastic sheets is the same:

• Each sheet of lining is customized to the desired size;
• They are connected to the previous one using the thorn-groove method, snapped into place along the length.

The other side is fixed on the crate frame. So to the final PVC strip.

The last sheet of lining will need to be adjusted not only in height, but also in width. After that, with one side it is mounted in a groove, the other - in an angular profile.

When cladding walls, above and below the openings of the premises, it is also necessary to measure the materials in width and height, cut off the excess. At the end of the work - decorate with a profile.

Installation of plastic lining is a method that will suit even a person who has never before had experience in such work.

How is the lining of the ceiling clapboard?

To eliminate the sagging of the plastic ceiling, you can build a crate frame with a step of no more than 40 cm.

After the crate is installed on the ceiling, a mounting bracket is fixed around the perimeter of the room, with the smooth side to the frame profile, the side with the groove out.

Self-tapping screws are used for fastening, the gap between them should be about 25 cm:

The ceiling plinth is adjusted along the length of the wall. Corners are installed along its edges and attached to the mounting plate.

In the resulting gap, between the mounting bracket and the plinth, a plastic lining is mounted, its other side is attached to the frame profile.

In this way, all subsequent sheets are installed.

The workflow is completed by mounting the ceiling plinth to the mounting bracket.

If you want to make your home cozy and warm, then you should not use modern materials such as concrete, glass and metal when decorating. You can use lining, the installation of which can be done independently quite simply. In this article, we will tell you how to do it. Natural materials are becoming more popular today, and the aforementioned cladding will create a natural microclimate that is comfortable for the human body in the premises.

The choice of lining

On sale today you can find lining made of natural wood and polyvinyl chloride. In the first case, varieties such as larch, pine, linden, birch and aspen are used. The choice of material will determine the room, or rather, its purpose. If the conditions in the room are characterized by high humidity, then it is best to use a plastic variety of the described finishing material. Whereas for the walls of an office, living room or bedroom, wood cladding is perfect.

The choice is also important. For example, pine rocks should not be used for a bath, as when heated, they begin to release resins. Choosing a plastic lining, you can take advantage of a wide range, which is represented by different colors and imitations of natural materials. It will be easy to care for such walls, and installing products is quite simple. But plastic has its drawbacks, for example, it is exposed to a mechanical nature. This indicates that the finish will not last long if carelessly used. Among other things, plastic cannot be called environmentally friendly.

For reference

Wooden lining, the installation of which can be carried out using several technologies, is distinguished by sound and heat insulation characteristics. If it is properly processed before installation, it will show the quality of durability.

Preparation for work

Before proceeding with the installation of wall cladding, the wooden lining will have to be prepared by treating it with protective compounds that will prevent damage to the wood. The material will not rot, insects will not destroy it, and mold will not form on the surface. If desired, wood can be treated with stain or azure, then the walls will acquire the desired color. If you have chosen a wooden lining, the installation of the finish should be done only after thorough drying, which is achieved by acclimatization inside the house during the day. But this is not the whole list of preparatory work: it will be necessary to install a supporting structure, the slats of which can be purchased ready-made or cut from an inch board with a small section. For this, the master will have to use an electric saw.

The elements of the crate are installed on the surface using screws or self-tapping screws, while between the boards it is necessary to provide a step in the range from 50 to 60 centimeters. When constructing a frame system, it is necessary to level the supporting structure using a plumb line or building level.

Additional manipulations

If you have chosen lining, the installation of this finish is sometimes carried out after the installation of sound and heat insulation materials. There should be a gap between them and the skin, which will serve as a ventilation space. After that, a heater is laid, which is covered with a vapor barrier. To install the lining itself, you will need a counter-lattice, the elements of which are also treated with a primer against fungus and putrefactive formations.

Various mounting methods

Before starting work, it is important to decide on the method of installing the lining. There are several of them, and the master must choose the most convenient for himself. The lining looks like separate boards, on one side of which there is a recess, on the other - a spike. It is inserted into the recess of the next element. Fasteners can be made hidden or external, it is carried out with decorative screws or simple nails, as well as staplers or clamps. The main thing is not to damage the finish, so as not to split the wood and not spoil the appearance of the material.

Do-it-yourself installation of lining with your own hands must be done with special care, the nail head must be hidden in the wood, for which you should use a puncher. It is important not to chip the groove, in which case the fasteners will be loosened. If you prefer a hidden fastening method, then the lining must be nailed or screwed to the crate from the side of the groove at the point of docking with the tenon. If you allow the moment that the fasteners can be seen, the plank can be nailed with small-head nails. They are scattered all over the lining randomly. This method of fastening is simpler and faster, but such an error is made when lining utility rooms.

Do-it-yourself lining installation in residential premises is carried out in a more complex and accurate way, which involves the use of nails recessed into the groove of the finish. Fasteners are not visible, and the method is called hidden. In order to fix the finish with high quality, you can stock up on metal clamps. Such grips are made of galvanized sheet and can have different shapes and sizes. On the one hand, they should be cut into the groove of the product with teeth, on the other hand, they should be nailed or screwed to the elements of the crate.

You can use stapler fastening technology, and you need to use a special gun. Fasteners are driven into the groove of the lining and fixed to the crate. Installation of wooden lining can be done in another reliable way, which involves the use of decorative screws. At the same time, an excellent result is achieved, which even a beginner can achieve.

Installation of wooden lining

Installation of lining on the wall should be carried out after installing the insulating and vapor barrier material, as well as the counter-lattice. Prior to the arrangement of the frame system, it is necessary to determine the direction of the cladding. This is due to the fact that the crate should be perpendicular to the skin. It all depends on the goal. Horizontally trim is installed if it is necessary to create a feeling of a spacious room. The lining is mounted vertically when there is a need to visually raise the ceiling, making the room higher.

With horizontal cladding, it is necessary to start work from the ceiling, moving towards the floor. In this case, the groove of the product should be directed downwards. This requirement is explained by the fact that debris and moisture should not clog the grooves of the board. Otherwise, destructive processes will prematurely destroy the finish.

If you decide to use clamps, then the fasteners should be installed in the depth of the previous board. It is attached with screws or nails to the battens. In this case, it is important not to create obstacles for the spike of the next board. In order for the installation to be carried out efficiently, it is important to check the level with a plumb line or an appropriate construction tool every 10 boards. Quite often, home craftsmen today perform the installation of lining on their own. A balcony or a room for any other purpose after that will look great. By the way, the technology remains the same. Before fixing the last facing board, you need to adjust it in width with a circular saw or a hacksaw. Then the element is nailed, and the gap is closed with a plinth. You should start installing it only after you check how evenly the finish is strengthened.

plastic clapboard

Installation of lining on the ceiling, as a rule, is carried out in the bathrooms, as well as loggias and balconies. Initially, the old finish, if any, will need to be removed from the surface. Sometimes experts advise to analyze how well materials are retained, if they do not exfoliate, then their removal can not be done. In the bars for the crate system, holes should be drilled for the installation of self-tapping screws, removing them from each other by 0.5 meters. With increased humidity in the room, the wood must be coated with drying oil, paint or varnish.

Before the PVC lining is installed, the bars should be fixed to the ceiling. To do this, they are applied in their place and through the holes made, the position of the fastener is projected onto the ceiling using an impact drill. After holes are made in the surface, the bars must be attached to the ceiling by screwing in the screws. After that, you can proceed to the ceiling sheathing, first of all, a plinth or L-profile to the bars is installed around the perimeter. Next, you can begin the installation of plastic lining. To do this, with one wide end, where the spike is located, you need to insert the panel into the plinth, while the other end is attached with a stapler to the timber.

Conclusion

The spike of the next panel will need to be installed in the groove of the previous one. And from the side of the groove, fasteners should be installed, driving it into the crate. By analogy, the entire ceiling is sheathed.

Technologies do not stand still, and every day new finishing and building materials appear on the market, which simply amaze with their qualities and characteristics. But there is something that is timeless, and has not lost its relevance for many decades in a row. We are talking about natural wood and finishing materials from it. And in this article we will talk about how do-it-yourself wooden lining is installed.

What is the secret of popularity

The first and most important argument that probably every adherent of wooden materials will say is naturalness and environmental friendliness. Of course, it’s hard to argue with this, the lining is made only from pure wood, and naturally, there is not a drop of plastic or other chemicals in it.

Naturally, a thick layer of varnish completely deprives the tree of its natural qualities, turning the lining into a composite material made using chemical components. But let's not dispel the dreams of many about environmentally friendly housing, and just talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this finishing material.

Advantages

It:

• Durable and resistant to mechanical damage material, which, even in the event of scratches or chips, can be easily restored independently.
• Installing a wooden lining is a fairly simple process., which does not require any special knowledge from you, or an ingenious set of tools.
• Of course, lining is an environmentally friendly material., and even under a layer of varnish and impregnations, it will create a completely unique surroundings and atmosphere in the room, in which it will always be warm and cozy.
• Any tree has excellent insulating qualities.. On the walls - this is not only additional insulation, but also soundproofing.

As you can see, the advantages are very significant, and they are guided by them, choosing a natural lining as a finish for their home. But not everything is so simple, and this material has a number of disadvantages, which can simply repel many.

Flaws

It:

• Without additional processing, the tree is very sensitive to water and moisture., it quickly absorbs it and begins to dry out. Of course, this is not true for all types of wood, and some, on the contrary, only become stronger when in contact with water, but the price for such materials will be appropriate.
• Many types of wood have the ability to absorb and retain odors for a long time. which are very difficult to get rid of later. That is why, finishing the clapboard of a wooden kitchen is highly discouraged.
• Price. Often, one of the fundamental arguments that scares off so many potential customers. The fact is that natural wood, and even more so finishing materials from it, by definition cannot be cheap, unless of course we are talking about class C lining, but more on that below.

How to choose lining

It is with this that the installation of a wooden lining with your own hands should begin, since in fact, it is often much more difficult to select high-quality material than to mount it. So, the whole lining is divided into four categories, each of which has its own special requirements, and as a result, it also differs in cost.

Extra

The highest class lining. Premium material. It is unacceptable marriage or defects in manufacturing. According to the standards, no more than one knot with a size of no more than 2 centimeters per two linear meters of material is allowed on extra-class lining.

Moreover, the knot should be of the same color as the wood and hold tight. In addition, scuffing of fibers or roughness is not allowed on such a lining. This material does not require additional processing, it is ready for installation immediately after purchase.

Important! Humidity, one of the main enemies of the tree, in extra class lining, this figure should not exceed 5 percent of the total mass. It is unlikely that you will be able to check this yourself, but if you feel moisture under your hands, this is an occasion to think about the conditions under which this material was stored in a store or supplier.

Class A

Class a lining differs little from extra, but two small knots per panel are allowed in it. An interesting fact is that the difference in price turns out to be quite significant, although visually it is unlikely that anyone will find and see the differences.

Class B

A more budget option, which allows errors in the form of knots, or roughness. When choosing such a lining, it is advisable to carefully examine each panel for strong defects.

It is necessary to pay the main attention to the following nuances:

• The presence of blue. This defect appears as a result of improper drying of the blanks, and, in fact, blue is the initial stage of mold. Of course, after careful processing, the growth process can be stopped, but it will be very difficult to hide the bluish tint even behind a thick layer of varnish.
• Fiber scuffs. A common defect that can be easily removed with sandpaper, but there are cases when the burr has affected a large area of ​​​​the panel, and it is in this place that peeling can begin.
• Big knots. Knots themselves are not a problem, and moreover, sometimes they look very harmonious, but there are times when the root does not hold well and can simply fall out, leaving behind an impartial hole.

Class C

In fact, this is a marriage, and its price is appropriate. There are no specific selection criteria here, and any errors are allowed. It should be noted right away that finishing with class C wooden clapboard can be a real torment.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the curvature of the panel, since no instruction will help you to put an uneven board correctly. Most often, such material is used for finishing utility or utility rooms.

Mounting

So, the material is selected, sorted and brought home, which means it's time to talk about the installation. And the first thing to do before attaching a wooden lining is to prepare everything you need.

Experts have noticed that sometimes it takes much more time to search for some important little thing than the repair itself, so you should always start with making lists and preparation, and we, in turn, will try to make this process as easy as possible.

Tool

You will need:

• Perforator for fastening the crate, and, accordingly, a drill of the required diameter.
• Roulette, pencil.
• A hacksaw for wood or an electric jigsaw, which will greatly speed up the process.
• Construction level. Ideally, there is a laser tool that greatly facilitates the marking process, but if it is not there, then you can get by with the simplest one, with a water balloon.
• A hammer.

Well, and the two most important tools: patience and properly sewn hands of the master. If all this is there, then you can safely proceed to the next stage, which is called the construction of the crate.

Lathing construction

Do-it-yourself wooden lining should be attached exclusively to a pre-prepared crate, in no case try to nail the panels directly to the wall, this will only lead to marriage and you will have to completely change and redo everything. Some home masters simply neglect this advice, and this is a very big mistake.

• The tree does not tolerate distortions, which inevitably occur when panels are mounted directly on the walls. Of course, you can pull the panel to the wall and force it to take the necessary shape, but this will only lead to the fact that it will be in constant tension and sooner or later it will crack or tear out the fasteners, returning to its original position.
• As you know, a tree is able to absorb not only moisture, but also odors, and some types of wood are even able to adopt rust from metal upon contact with it. Therefore, if you attach the lining to the wall, it will begin to collect all the accumulated condensate and dust particles, which will significantly speed up the process of decomposition of the material.
• You will have to fasten the lining to the wall with dowels, which, as a rule, have an impressive diameter, which means that you will not be able to make a hidden fastening, and the hats from screws or self-tapping screws will be in the most visible place, which, you see, does not look very nice.

So, the arguments have been given, and the need for the crate has been proven, which means that we are arming ourselves with a pencil, a tape measure level and for business. First of all, it is necessary to apply markings on the walls, but before that, it is necessary to treat the lathing bar with special impregnations, which will significantly extend its service life.

The bar will be attached horizontally with us, so we cut it to the size of the room, and carefully go through it with impregnation or antiseptic stain. It is necessary to do this even if the lining itself is left uncovered. The block is in direct contact with the wall, and is also made of weaker woods, so it is better if it has additional protection.

Advice! Try not to work with impregnations at home. Despite the fact that they are practically odorless, if they get on the floor or even more furniture, it will be very, very difficult to remove the stain.

So, our bar dries, and we will deal with the crate. The most responsible in this process is the fastening of the ceiling and floor planks, since they must be strictly level. in all other places errors are allowed, and even fastening "by eye" is possible.

To begin with, we measure the height of the ceiling, and divide the obtained data in half, put a mark at this place. Now, we have two identical segments, each of which must also be divided into two. Thus, we mark the walls until the distance between the marks becomes about 30-50 centimeters.

Now we need horizontal lines that are drawn in the area of ​​​​the ceiling and floor. You need to make them guided by the indications of the building level, from the highest point. The markup is ready, which means that it remains to fix the bars. We fasten the first and last element according to the horizontal line, and all intermediate ones, simply starting from the marks.

That's all, the crate is ready, which means that the most difficult thing is already behind, and the last stage remains, fastening the lining.

Lining fastening

As you probably already understood, before attaching a wooden lining, it must be processed. If you purchased class B or C material, then each panel must be sanded with fine sandpaper, in the case of class A or extra, this will not have to be done. After that, the boards are covered with impregnations and, if desired, varnished, and while our material is drying, we invite you to watch the video in this article, which describes in detail the entire installation process.

So, the lining has dried up, and you can fix it. You need to start from the side from which it is more convenient for you to hammer in nails, and the first panel must be placed with a comb in a corner.

Fastening is easiest to do through the body of the panel, with small furniture studs, which hold very well, and at the same time are invisible themselves. The next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and is also fixed to each element of the crate.

The main difficulty can arise in the corners, when the edge panel may have to be cut along the entire length. Well, here, in principle, that's all, it remains to install skirting boards and decorative corners that can be mounted on glue or on the same furniture nails. Do-it-yourself wooden lining is ready, and you can enjoy the work done and the result.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to do everything very carefully and extremely carefully, since well-dried wood is a very fragile material that requires a scrupulous attitude towards itself.

In order to easily, quickly and efficiently carry out the installation of wooden lining, you need to know how, with what help and in what sequence you need to perform certain actions. Depending on which room you plan to sheathe, there will or may not be various installation steps.

Clapboard is a material that is very convenient for installation. Each plank has a groove on one side and a ledge on the other. As a result, when fastening, a reliable lock is obtained.

After reading the information below, you will quite easily do the installation yourself.

Tools and materials you will need:

• wooden slats with a section of 20x40 mm;
• self-tapping screws or dowel-nails (depending on the wall to which you will attach the crate);
• mounting level;
• screwdriver;
• thermal insulation material (for example, mineral wool);
• waterproofing material (substrate or vapor barrier);
• construction stapler;
• polypropylene twine;
• lining;
• kleimers (special staples) with ordinary nails;
• a hammer;
• a small piece of lining;
• plinth;
• dumbbell;
• finishing nails;
• fire retardant composition.

Preparatory stages

The most optimal and durable is the crate for lining, made of wooden beams, although quite often other materials are used for these purposes, such as a metal profile.

The first stage: We make the crate. For the crate, you will need wooden slats with a section of 20x40 mm, self-tapping screws or dowel-nails (depending on the wall to which you will attach the crate), a mounting level, a screwdriver. We attach the slats to the wall, placing them perpendicular to the future direction of the lining (the lining can be mounted both vertically and horizontally). Before fixing, we check the evenness of the wall surface using the mounting level. If the wall is uneven, then we put a piece of plywood under the rail. Check again for evenness. The step of the rails should be no more than 40-50 cm. We fix the lower rail at a distance of 3-5 cm from the floor. We install the top rail at the level of fastening of the ceiling elements. We also fix rails in the corners and around door and window openings. It is important to note that all electrical wiring work should be carried out before the installation of the crate, since after the installation of the wooden lining is completed, this will not be possible.

The requirements for materials used for the installation of balcony waterproofing are very high.

The most reliable material used for the installation of balcony waterproofing is polyurethane mastic waterproofing.

The second stage: heat and waterproofing (this stage is necessary if you are installing wooden panels in a private house, in a sauna, on a balcony or loggia). To do this, you will need a thermal insulation material (for example, mineral wool), waterproofing material (for example, a substrate or vapor barrier), a construction stapler, and polypropylene twine. The underlay or vapor barrier can be installed first before the batten is installed, and then a second layer can be placed on the batten after it has been filled with mineral wool. It is important to remember that when installing a vapor barrier, you need to fix it with a rough side to the insulation. Hydro- or vapor barrier should be overlapped by 10 cm and the joints along the entire length should be fixed with adhesive tape. Waterproofing fasteners are carried out using a construction stapler in increments of 10-15 cm. So that mineral wool does not slip or deform over time, it must be fixed with polypropylene twine. Fastening of polypropylene twine is carried out using a construction stapler.

fine finish

It is advisable to mount the lining with the help of kleimers, because. no nail heads are visible.

The third stage: installation of lining. When installing, you will need the panels themselves (it is better to use alder for finishing the sauna), finishing nails or kleimers (special staples) with ordinary nails, a mounting level, a hammer, a small piece of lining. Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary that the unpacked lining lay in the room in which it will be mounted for at least 48 hours. Installation of the first panel must begin from the corner. You can attach to the crate with finishing nails or with the help of clamps. If you use kleimers during installation, then in the future the lining can be easily dismantled with your own hands. After that, the same material can be used when installing in any other place.

After you install the first lining and fix it, you need to insert the comb of the second panel into its groove and fix it. The second and subsequent lining will be difficult to insert by hand, they will most likely be difficult to enter. To facilitate this process, there is no need to purchase a special tool. It can be made by hand. It is enough just to take a small piece of the sawn-off panel and, inserting it with a comb into the groove of the next installed lining, gently tap on it with a hammer. This must be done along the entire length of the lining until it fits snugly. Bottom and top boards can be additionally secured with nails.

Every sixth board must be checked with a mounting level so that the installation continues without deviations. The gap between the lining and the load-bearing walls should be 1.5-2 cm. This is necessary so that in the future the wooden wall remains even and does not lead despite the fact that it was not installed by professionals, but by you with your own hands.

It is allowed to finish wooden lining with appropriate skirting boards.

Fourth stage: finishing with fittings. At the penultimate stage, you will need a baseboard, a dumbbell, finishing nails and a hammer. We continue to create comfort with our own hands, you are almost at the finish line! In order for your lining to take on a finished look, it is necessary to arrange corner joints and close the gaps between the floor and ceiling. For corner joints, you can use a narrow plinth or dumbbell, for the lower and upper gaps you need a plinth of such dimensions as to close these gaps. You need to fix the plinth and dumbbell with finishing nails, then the look will be aesthetic.

Fifth (final) stage: wall processing. you have already done a lot with your own hands, the last important procedure remains: processing the mounted walls with a fire-retardant composition. You need to do this at least three times every day. After such treatment, your walls will serve you for a long time. You will be warm in winter and cool in summer.

Now the installation is complete! you can be proud - all this is done by your hands!

Do-it-yourself lining installation: instructions with photos and videos

Do-it-yourself lining installation is a great way to save money on repairs. You can sheathe the walls and ceilings of houses, saunas, balconies and loggias with clapboard.

Features and technology of finishing with lining of different types

Clapboard decoration of various surfaces inside the house is performed in order to give them an excellent decorative look. Currently, there are different types of materials that are combined into a single group. The technology of working with them is different and depends solely on the selected product. It should be noted that all activities can be carried out without building qualifications.

Instrument preparation

It is customary to distinguish the two most commonly used types of material: plastic and wood. Do-it-yourself lining installation in each case has some differences and individual characteristics. But the process will require the same set of tools:

• Screwdriver.
• Perforator with the necessary nozzles.
• Level.
• Hammer and mallet.
• Electric jigsaw.

Separately, a wooden beam for the crate and fasteners (self-tapping screws, kleimers, carnations) are prepared. All work begins with a common event - the construction of the frame.

Do-it-yourself set of tools for mounting lining

Mounting rails on the wall

Installation of wooden lining and its plastic variety is carried out mainly on the frame. It is installed like this:

1. Wooden beam is well treated with antiseptic compounds. If the events take place in a room that is characterized by a constant average humidity, then it is possible to impregnate only with a primer.
2. The surface is prepared in advance. There is no need to do such work perfectly, but you should remove the old coating, check the walls for mold and fungus, and cover up all defects with putty.
3. Markup in progress. The surface is drawn based on how the lining will be located. The main thing is that the lining is carried out perpendicular to the bearing bars.
4. Wooden slats are drilled out. The hole pitch is 50-60 cm. These holes are transferred to the wall. A puncher prepares places for dowels.
5. Racks are laid strictly according to the level. If there is a distortion, then pieces of plywood are placed.
6. Thus, a frame is obtained, which consists of rails arranged in a certain order. The voids between them can be used for laying insulation.

The construction of the frame under the lining

On a note! Many people think that it is better to install lining on a metal profile. Indeed, such an option can be applied, but only in extreme cases, when significant irregularities of the base are observed.

Fixing a plastic product

This option has proven itself for rooms with high humidity. Unlike a wooden look, laying a lining made of plastic does not imply its additional processing, impregnation. Therefore, working with it is much faster. The order is:

• Starting strips made of plastic are laid on the frame. They can also be mounted on the wall itself, but in this case it needs more careful preparation.
• These strips have holes into which the first fragment is inserted. It is immediately fixed with a clamp.
• Further, the procedure is very simple: the fragments are grooved and fixed on the frame.

Much more difficult is the lining of the walls with clapboard, which is made of natural wood.

Various ways of fastening wooden lining

Finishing with wooden clapboard is performed a little differently than its plastic variety. Initially, it is advisable to decide on the method of attachment. There are three main options:

1. Use of nails. Galvanized nails are used for work, their small caps are the least noticeable on the surface. Installation of lamellas occurs directly. In order to hide the carnation flush, and also not to spoil the material, a doboynik is additionally purchased. This option is suitable for those cases when the product will be processed with colorful compositions.

Installation of wooden lining with nails

• The use of clamps. This is the most modern method, which makes the process much easier. Wall clapboard finishing is much faster, the main thing is to adapt to install this fixture, which looks like a bracket. It turns out a completely hidden installation, which makes it possible to disassemble the decorative coating without damaging the delicate wood.

Mounting the lining on the kleimers

• Work as an industrial stapler. It should be noted right away that a simple version of such a tool will not be able to provide proper fastening. Installation consists in the fact that the inner part of the groove is punched with brackets.

Installation of lamellas using an industrial stapler

Options for laying wood material

There are two main options for laying material, which differ in their direction. Namely - vertical and horizontal.

Vertical option

1. The first fragment is fixed in the corner. For this, carnations are used, which will hide under a decorative corner. If there is no such additional element, then the caps are simply bitten off with side cutters, and the carnations are clogged very carefully.
2. Be sure to check the clarity of the vertical laying. After all, any inaccuracy will lead to the fact that subsequent lamellas will have even greater curvature.
3. The fixed element is fixed with clamps. Next, the following lamellas are installed, which are first grooved and then attached.
4. Every five fragments are checked using a level and a plumb line.
5. The final finishing element is filed to the desired size.

Vertical way of mounting lining on the wall

Horizontal way

The interior decoration of the house with clapboard can also be done horizontally, this happens as follows:

• The slats are installed from the ceiling. The groove should look down. If the lining has the shape of a rounded log, then its installation begins with a groove top, this will hide the docking points.
• The mounting technology is similar to the previous version. But it must be borne in mind that for a stronger fixation - the boards are lined with dies.
• Going down from top to bottom, it is quite convenient to fix the elements on the studs. The main thing is to finish them off so as not to damage the front side.

Installation of lamellas in a horizontal way starts from the ceiling

On a note! The diagonal scheme looks very original. It is made on a frame, the racks of which are located in a more frequent step.

Fastening the lining to the ceiling

Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling decoration is done most carefully. The fact is that fixing the material is rather inconvenient, so the risk of making a mistake and damaging the decorative surface increases. To do everything most correctly, follow the following instructions:

1. The supporting structure is assembled so that there is no doubt about its reliability. The safety of the people living in the premises depends on this.
2. The bars are selected with a cross section of 2 * 2.5 cm. They should be equal in length to the size of the ceiling. If the slats are short, then they are sewn together with the help of corners.
3. Take into account that the fastening step of the dowels should be 30-40 cm.
4. The evenness of the fastening of the crate is checked by the laces stretched along the walls.

Directly sheathing with lamellas looks like this:

• The first element is installed at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall. This is necessary to level the process of possible shrinkage of the building and the "play" of wooden material.
• The fragment is baited on galvanized carnations. This must be done carefully, because the board can crack.
• It is better to choose clamps as fasteners, they are more reliable. They are fixed to the guides with self-tapping screws. Nails are not used due to the fact that they can slightly weaken the structure, which will lead to its subsidence.
• Further, each element is placed by attaching it to the groove and fixing it to the clamp.
• Difficulties may arise with the last fragment, it should be cut to the required size, taking into account the indentation from the wall.

Clapboard ceiling lining

1. It is much more efficient to perform wall cladding with clapboard when the material is already varnished, this will allow you to process all inaccessible areas, as well as perform the work with the highest quality, avoiding possible streaks and streaks.
2. Finishing with clapboard inside the house in places of high humidity suggests that the lamellas will not go into the groove all the way. This will avoid deformation.
3. Do not hit the groove with a hammer, this will damage the material.

Clapboard decoration of walls and ceiling inside the house: do-it-yourself installation of wooden lamellas

Even a person without proper experience can perform clapboard decoration. But you need to take into account the rules for placing lamellas on the frame and suitable fastening methods.

Proper installation of lining on the ceiling and walls

Increasingly, plastic building materials are being replaced by wooden ones: they are more affordable, environmentally friendly and look more interesting in the interior. Proper installation of lining on the ceiling or walls can be easily done with your own hands, if there is a step-by-step instruction and a work plan.

Features of installation work

You can install the lining both on the walls and on the frame, these methods are selected based on the material of the walls. The installation of wooden lining directly on the walls is most expedient to be carried out in a wooden bath, there is no need to additionally weight the structures with a metal profile or load-bearing wooden beams. But, if the installation is planned in residential premises or utility rooms for general purposes (balcony, closet, etc.), then it is better to use frame equipment.

Photo - work order

Rules for installing lining:

1. Installation of the coating on the ceiling is carried out only by the frame method. In this case, the bearing profile guides are attached to the beams, but if the beams were not installed or they were hidden behind other building material, they will have to be re-mounted;
2. On the balcony, in the steam room or in the corner rooms of the house, the lining must be insulated. This is necessary due to the fact that MDF panels or natural wood boards have a porous structure that has good conductive properties. Due to the circulation of oxygen, cold air from outside can easily enter the living space;

Photo - construction cake

• The frame step for eurolining panels, classic boards and PVC varies. For euro, MDF and PVC - 40 centimeters, for ordinary - 50;
• Waterproofing is also installed in the bathroom and steam room along with insulation. The same rule applies to the exterior decoration of the facade with clapboard.

Installation guide

It is easiest to install a plastic or wooden seamless lining on your own: its installation involves pushing the panels on top of each other and fastening them in certain places with nails. Sometimes, instead of nails, staplers, clamps and self-tapping screws are used.

Consider how the do-it-yourself battens are installed on the ceiling:

1. The technology for installing lining on the ceiling and walls is similar, with the exception of the working surface. To start installation work, you need to determine the lowest point of the ceiling. To do this, the same distance is broken off from each corner with a ruler, and then the lowest angle is determined. From it, with the help of a level, the ceiling is drawn;
2. The frame device can be made of both metal and wooden beams. It is preferable to use a metal profile on large areas, since it has a higher rigidity;

Photo - installation diagram

• A wire mesh is laid off from the main line. The step of the beams is determined based on the selected material. After that, brackets or U-shaped suspensions are mounted. They are installed with the calculation of 5 per meter. It should be noted that an important feature of working with lining is that the material must be perpendicular to the frame. If the boards are installed horizontally, then the supporting beams are mounted vertically and vice versa. This scheme is valid for any surfaces that are finished with wooden boards;

Photo - installation example

• Beams or profile guides are mounted on them. The perimeter is installed first, it is made either from load-bearing UD or wooden beams with a section of 25 mm. It is advisable to try to lay the base as close as possible to the wall, otherwise, after finishing the finish, a gap may appear between the wall and the ceiling, which will need to be additionally blocked;
• When the frame is ready, wiring is done (if necessary), vapor barrier and insulation. A film is installed under the frame, which will protect the walls and the supporting system from the effects of condensate. Further, sheets of foam, mineral wool or other insulation are mounted;

Photo - finished frame

• A waterproofing film is installed directly on the thermal insulation. It is stretched to protect the frame and heat insulator from moisture. In particular, you need to take care of the insulation of the corners - it is here that gaps appear through which water enters the frame and contributes to the appearance of dampness;

Photo - thermal insulation

• After that, a lining is installed on the surface of the crate. Installation work is carried out close to the wall, the first panel moves as close as possible to the corner. The entire coating will be leveled along it, so special attention is paid to its installation. In order to move the board as close as possible to the wall, a small piece of wood and a hammer are used. The wood is joined to the board and it needs to be hit several times with a hammer to create a hard corner;

Photo - padding

• For the installation of subsequent panels, special brackets are used. Kleimer with a tongue moves onto the first board, while its second half is superimposed on the frame. Next, the bracket is attached to the surface of the bearing beam with self-tapping screws or nails. For one panel of standard length (2.5 meters), 2 clamps are used, for the House block (imitation of timber), whose length often does not exceed 0.5 m - one bracket;

Photo - kleimer

• When construction work is completed, the lining is covered with drying oil, protective equipment and varnish or paint.

Painting can also be carried out before the start of installation work, but then the finish may suffer when installed on the frame. After that, it remains only to install skirting boards at the joints of the ceiling and walls.

Photo - finished room

The rules for mounting the frame and vinyl or wooden lining on the ceiling and walls are very similar. Only the definition of the perimeter differs. To mount eurolining, you need to draw lines of the same length from the ceiling and mark the surface from them.

Tips for choosing lining and installation:

1. In a sauna, bath, attic or other rooms with a high temperature, you need to use a lining made of linden, larch or aspen. These rocks do not heat up and do not emit resin under thermal influence;
2. The wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds;
3. Seamless sheet often exceeds the dimensions of conventional panels, so it requires reinforced fasteners. Most often, builders use special screws or nails. When working in a building made of concrete slabs, even dowels can be used;
4. If the method of installation on walls without a frame is chosen, then before starting work, the old coating is completely dismantled, the walls and ceiling are leveled, as well as their primer.

Do-it-yourself lining installation: instructions, video

What does the installation of lining include? Features of installation work. Installation instructions and tips for choosing lining.

Do-it-yourself lining installation - complete work instructions

Modern buildings are dominated by artificial materials. Houses are built of reinforced concrete, but living in these buildings is cold and uncomfortable. Therefore, when arranging housing, you still want to use natural materials. If you have a desire to live in a wooden house, but the financial possibilities do not allow it, opt for a wooden lining.

What is needed for plating and how much it can cost

If you decide to use the lining as a facing material, it is worth evaluating your future costs.

The cost, depending on the material, its quality and the type of panels, varies greatly ( from 180 to 1300 rubles per m2).

Plastic and MDF panels are cheaper than those made from natural wood, and of the variety of available types, the most expensive is a block house.

Prices for the installation of lining vary from 150 to 500 rubles per m2, while the crate will cost 100 - 300 rubles. Sometimes the work can be more expensive, it all depends on the image of the specialists or the company performing the installation work.

Having decided on the type of lining and timber, it is worth considering the need for related elements:

• tools (perforator, screwdriver, drill, spirit level, hammer and pliers, plumb line);
• materials for insulation and waterproofing;
• means for processing (paint, varnish, stain, etc.);
• parts for fasteners (brackets, anchor screws, wood screws, nails).

Having calculated the cost of materials and components, how much it costs to install a lining, you may decide to do it yourself. Moreover, special skills are not required for this.

Processing and coating

Before you start covering the room, the material must be prepared.

1. Cover the panels with bio protective agents to prevent the formation of mold, the appearance of harmful insects and decay.
2. Dry the material.
3. Leave for several days in the room where it is planned to be installed. This will give the panels time to adjust to the temperature and humidity, which in turn will ensure a quality installation without subsequent shrinkage.

Wood stains, oils or others wood tinting compounds are applied before installation. This is due to the fact that low humidity leads to shrinkage (width may decrease within 1 mm). If you plan to cover it with varnish or paint, then this can be done after the completion of the installation work.

So, the panels can be covered with colorless compositions, varnished, tinted, special oils will help to give them an exterior like valuable breeds or painted.

The use of glossy varnishes and other synthetic-based decoration compositions is prohibited, especially for interior work. When sheathing a steam room with wood, you should not cover it with anything.

Lathing installation

Do-it-yourself lining installation begins with the installation of the crate. If the walls and ceilings in the room are even wooden, then the lining can be attached directly to them, but in 99% this is not the case.

Therefore, it is impossible to do without installing a crate, which will become a supporting structure.

First you need to choose a direction, in which the panels will be mounted. In the frame, the beam should be perpendicular to this direction. Horizontal laying will visually expand the room, and vertical laying will raise the ceiling.

The crate can be made of metal profile or wood. For lathing, slats with a cross section of 20x40 or 25x50 mm are used, they can be easily bought at specialized outlets or, if there are inch wooden boards, made independently by cutting with an electric saw.

It is better to use coniferous wood, it is not so affected by changes in humidity and temperature.

We proceed directly to the creation of the supporting frame. If the wall will be sheathed vertically, we fix the first beam horizontally under the ceiling:

• using a level, we outline a line parallel to it, mounting brackets will be installed along it;
• using an impact drill and anchor screws, we install brackets at a distance of half a meter;
• we form a connector under the beam, bending inward part of the fastening;
• we fix the beam, fixing it with wood screws in the side holes of the brackets, and wrap the rest of the fasteners to the wall.

All bars in the frame must lie in the same plane and be set strictly according to the level. To do this, having installed the first beam, plumb lines are attached to it, which will help determine the location of the remaining rails.

Further installation of the crate is carried out similarly to the installation of the first beam. The vertical distance between the slats should be about 50 cm. In order to avoid the occurrence of mold and fungus, it is advisable to cover the crate with a primer layer.

Before installing the lining, you can additionally insulate the wall.

Most often, mineral wool in rolls is used for this. It is cut into segments of the required size, which are then inserted under or between the beams of the crate.

For additional fixation of the insulation, you can use mounting fasteners or glue.

After laying the insulation, the joints of the segments must be filled with mounting foam (do not use "extra" foam, it can deform the insulation).

There is a second option, in which the insulation is laid before the installation of the frame, it is strung on fasteners for the rails, after which the crate is completely mounted.

At the end of the insulation procedure, in order to avoid the formation of condensate, we lay waterproofing: vapor or hydro-barrier films (rough side inward).

Video - insulation of the balcony with foam plastic under the crate:

First of all, you need to choose one of 5 ways to fasten the lining.

1. This method is characterized by simplicity, high fixation strength and the possibility of dismantling if necessary. Mounting the lining on the kleimers is easy to do on your own: they are inserted into the internal projections of the grooves on one side, and the other is attached to a wooden frame.
2. A hole equal to ½ the diameter of the self-tapping screw is drilled in the panel, after which, using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screws are screwed in until completely immersed in the tree. The holes are closed with a wooden pin and polished. The method is often used in the lining of rooms in baths.
3. A method for professionals: a nail at an angle of 45º is carefully hammered into the groove, then driven into the crate. To fix a panel of 2.5 m, at least 6 nails are used.
4. A hole for the screw is drilled in the panel spike, and then the board is screwed to the rails. The process must be carried out flush with the board.
5. With a construction stapler, the staples are installed diagonally into the groove of the panels, and fasten them to the crate.

Horizontal cladding involves fastening panels is carried out from above, and the groove should be directed downwards, so moisture and debris will not get into the grooves, therefore, it will last much longer.

Fixing the panels is carried out by one of the methods presented above. To perform high-quality installation, do not forget, using a level, to check whether the walls are even.

If the panel is not tightly pressed against the previous one, it can be knocked out using a piece of lining for this, so as not to damage the connecting system.

The last panel, before being fixed on the crate, is adjusted with a hacksaw, the gap between it and the floor is closed with a plinth, and the joints and corners are decorated with special slats and corners.

Lining is an excellent finishing material that will fill the house with comfort and maintain a healthy microclimate, and thanks to its sound and heat insulation properties, it will become much more comfortable to live in it.

Do-it-yourself lining installation - instructions with photos and videos

Do-it-yourself lining installation begins with the installation of the crate. If there are walls and ceilings in the room ... Horizontal cladding involves fastening panels ...

The wooden finish of the house makes it more cozy and warm inside and out. However, this can be costly. Therefore, materials that imitate wood are more often used. The wagon does a great job with this. It can be mounted on ceilings, external and external walls of the house and even doors. There is a wide range of this material. The process is so simple to perform that lining the walls with clapboard with your own hands will not cause difficulties.

Classification

There are different types of distillation according to the type of material from which it is made.

Clapboard made of wood

It can safely be called a classic of the genre. There are a huge number of different subspecies of wooden lining, which differ in the type and breed of wood used to make it.

This is an environmentally friendly material that can be chosen for facing any surface. There are other positive qualities, such as environmental friendliness, lightness, ease of installation. However, when choosing a material, it is worth remembering that there are disadvantages:

• the influence of natural factors on the external state (temperature changes and high humidity deform the material), which requires processing with special means;
• the need for meticulous care.

Plastic lining

This option is considered budget. They can decorate the ceiling and walls. Has a beautiful appearance. Mounted without seams. The disadvantages include the fact that such lining is short-lived, can fade and turn yellow, easily collapse, especially in the cold. However, all the shortcomings of the material are offset by its low cost.

Metal lining

It is made from thin sheets of steel and aluminum, which are covered with protective materials. They differ in color and texture (it is possible to select a lining that imitates wood).

Aluminum lining is characterized by a long service life. Most often, it is sheathed with facades of houses.

Steel lining is budgetary, but short-lived. If the protective coating is damaged, then irreversible corrosion will begin, and the thin material will quickly rot.

Table: classification of lining by cross section

Name	Description
Standard	Equipped with a thorn-groove system (the thorn of one board is inserted into the groove of another). The spikes in the lining are slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that when the tree completely dries out, its deformation does not begin. Standard lining has good sound and heat insulation. When correct, there should be no gaps between the slats.
"Calm"	She is also called a "collective farmer", Russian, classic or simple. It differs from the standard view only in the rounding of bevelled corners. The high demand for "calm" is due to the high quality lining and neat appearance.
	This lining has a longer groove, which gives the surface a slightly different look. Production takes place in European countries, Russia and Belarus.
Softline	"Soft line" translated from English - "soft line". The name encodes its main distinguishing feature. If we talk about the appearance, then this is a kind of mix of “calm” and eurolining, where there are rounded bevels and an elongated groove.

Ceiling rail, block house, floorboard and timber imitation also often refers to subspecies of lining. This is because these materials are manufactured and fastened in the same or similar way.

Photo gallery: different types of material by section

When installing such a lining between the slats, there will never be gaps
Differences of lining calm from the standard is only in the presence of rounded bevels
Eurolining is produced in Europe, Russia and Belarus
Combines the features of eurolining and "calm"

Table: division into classes

Class	Description
BUT	The material is of good quality, sometimes knots can be seen on the surface that do not fall out. A few resin cracks on the surface or blind cracks are also normal for this class. Suitable for home decoration.
AT	On a plank 1.5 m long, there can be 4 knots, but no more, resin pockets and blind cracks in a small amount. Not recommended for home decoration.
FROM	Low quality material. They often sheathe outbuildings. In such slats, knots can fall out, there are through cracks, the color differs from the standard.
Extra	This wagon is perfect. There are no knots or other flaws on the slats.

Table: material classification by wood species

The lining is made from deciduous and coniferous wood. Each of them has certain characteristics that may be suitable for a particular place of cladding.

	wood species	Description
hardwood tree	Oak	Resistant to rot, mold and mildew. Durable and flexible. The color ranges from light fawn to dark brown. Sanding oak to perfect smoothness is almost impossible. High price.
	Linden	Very good for residential cladding. It is also suitable for facing the bath, because it emits a pleasant smell, and it does not heat up from high temperatures. It has an aesthetic appearance and low density. Turns yellow over time.
	Aspen	It is very easy to handle. In terms of its properties, it is in no way inferior to lining made of linden. Holds its shape very well. Suitable for covering surfaces of housing and baths. In the latter case, when interacting with high temperatures, the aspen does not dry out, and cracks do not appear on it.
	Alder	Wood contains a large percentage of tannins. The characteristics are similar to oak, but easier to process. Expensive and rare breed of wood.
	Ash	In terms of strength, wood is slightly worse than oak, but visually more aesthetic. Has a rich texture. Easily processed. Expensive. It has a dense and elastic texture.
coniferous wood	Cedar	The noble beauty of the material is quite expensive. It has a pleasant healing aroma. Soft and plastic material, which makes it easy to process.
	Larch	Has a very high density. Thanks to the gum in the composition, it is moisture resistant and protected from decay. When exposed to high temperatures, it gets very hot. Smells nice. Difficult to process.
	Pine	Budget and common cladding option. A healing aroma emanates from the wood of this species. It is easy to handle
	Spruce	Its loose and soft structure does not tolerate moisture very well. But this is a great option for cladding the interior walls of residential premises because of the excellent thermal conductivity. It has a pleasant coniferous smell and aesthetic appearance. When processed with special means, the service life is significantly increased.

Preparation for sheathing the walls of the house

The first stage of facing a log or brick house is the preparation of walls and material:

Stock up on all the necessary tools and materials in advance. You will definitely need a hammer, a building level, a puncher, a screwdriver, a tape measure and a jigsaw.

Which mounting method to choose

Usually the lining is equipped with a tenon-groove system, which allows you to fasten the planks well to each other. However, the material must also be fixed on the crate. This can be done with staples, clamps, screws and nails. The mount can be placed openly or hidden. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the entire structure is well fixed, and the lining is not damaged.

Kleimers

Kleimers will fix the lining with the highest quality. But it is important to choose the right size of nails. It is selected depending on the thickness of the grooves. Often, clamp sets already have nails.

Video: how to fasten the lining with kleimers

Mounting gun with staples

Staples are fired from a pistol into the groove of the board and securely fix the lining to the frame part. But it is very difficult for beginners to do it the first time.

Decorative screws

Qualitatively fastens the boards, while the aesthetic beauty of the material is not lost.

Nails and screws

Both those and others should be fastened diagonally. So, the rail is clamped into the groove of the previous strip of material, and the cap presses it to the base.

Material calculation

An example of calculating materials for a room with dimensions of 5x4x2.5 m.

• length (A) - 5 m;
• width (B) - 4 m;
• height (C) - 2.5 m.

Using these parameters, you can calculate:

• A * C \u003d 5 * 2.5 \u003d 12.5 m 2 (the area of ​​​​one of the walls);
• 12.5 * 2 \u003d 25 m 2 (the area of ​​\u200b\u200btwo opposite walls);
• A * B \u003d 5 * 4 \u003d 20 m 2 (the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe second wall);
• 20 * 2 \u003d 40 m 2 (the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe other two opposite walls);
• 40+25=65 m 2 (total surface area to be finished).

To find out how much material is needed for such a room, you need to determine the size of one lining plank.

How to clad the walls with your own hands using the horizontal placement of the lining

The work is carried out in several steps:

How to sheathe walls if you place the lining vertically

Wooden facade cladding

When facing a house from a log house, there are some features

If you plan to paint the walls of the facade after cladding, then you can purchase a middle-class lining for finishing. Otherwise, it is better to take a better quality lining, since all the flaws will be visible (even if the surface is varnished).

Perform the work in the following sequence:

The process of cladding the walls of the facade does not differ from the interior decoration.

Windows, protruding corners and skirting boards can be decorated with decorative elements for beauty.

Before facing the clapboard, do not forget to mount a layer of insulation and vapor barrier

Material handling after installation

Choose only high-quality processing tools.

You will need:

Ideally, the surface treatment of the facing material should be done before its installation.

Perform the work in the following sequence:

1. Clean the surface of the wood from dirt, dust and fungus with a steel or hair brush, and then with fine-grained sandpaper.
2. Treat the planks with an antiseptic and primer. These funds can be found 2 in 1.
3. Paint or varnish the surface. But before proceeding to this stage of work, wait until the previous layer dries well.

You can easily finish the walls of your house both outside and inside, using lining for this. There are practically no difficulties. The main thing is not to be afraid and boldly follow the instructions.

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