For any type of wall finishing, be it putty, plaster, painting, or before wallpapering, you must first prepare the surface. Priming is one of the main stages that must be completed first, because with the help of soil you can achieve better adhesion finishing material with the surface. However, the materials presented on the construction market have quite high cost. But there is an excellent economical solution - PVA primer. It is not difficult to make it yourself, and this solution is suitable for both wooden and concrete and brick surfaces.
PVA glue is a water emulsion of polyvinyl acetate. This Chemical substance solid granular substance without distinct color and odor. The material is used in construction, furniture production, carpentry. It is actively used by schoolchildren, students, and needlewomen. Polyvinyl acetate glue connects various materials: paper, cardboard, wood, rubber, ceramics.
To obtain a primer, PVA glue is diluted with water. On the surface, such a mixture forms a thin transparent film, which has many of the properties of specialized primer compositions.
PVA based primer can be used as an intermediate layer between the surface and finishing coating, promoting good adhesion of materials and reducing the risk of their peeling from the wall as a result of moisture getting on it. In addition, the use of such a primer will reduce the consumption of putty or paint used.
Advantages and disadvantages
A primer made from PVA glue has its advantages and disadvantages. The undoubted advantages are:
- Increased adhesion. An additional layer is created to securely fix the finish to the surface.
- Reduced moisture absorption. The soil penetrates the surface structure, filling its pores and preventing moisture from entering them.
- Creation of a protective layer. A thin polymer barrier helps combat aggressive environmental influences.
- Decrease in quantity consumables (plaster, paint, glue).
In addition, a primer made from PVA ensures even application of paint and facilitates the process of wallpapering. Of course, all this is sufficiently ensured by commercial primer, which is available in a wide range. But often she high price forces you to look for more profitable solutions. Therefore, using PVA instead of a primer is a completely justified option.
Despite all the advantages, this composition still has disadvantages. These include:
- Ineffective– insufficient penetration into the material.
- Lack of antiseptic properties– the primer will not be able to resist the growth of microorganisms (mold, fungus).
- Education yellow spots and divorces– spoils appearance finishing.
- The material loses its properties in damp areas– not used to cover walls, ceilings in bathhouses, swimming pools.
Knowing some subtleties, you can turn disadvantages into advantages and improve the properties of an aqueous PVA solution for priming walls. So, for example, you can increase the ability to resist mold by adding a little whiteness to the composition in the proportion: 50 g per liter of ready solution disinfectant. Add 3% of its volume to PVA soil liquid glass, it is possible to increase the permeability into the processed material, especially into wooden substrates.
If financial resources are limited, it is better to use adhesive primer in utility or non-residential premises. In the living room and bedroom, combination with expensive wallpaper such a primer will not work, because there is a possibility of yellowing, which will significantly change the interior for the worse.
Prepare the primer yourself
How to make a mixture that has the properties of a primer? You need to take the following components:
- PVA glue – 1 part;
- water – 2 parts;
- cement - the amount is determined by the density.
The preparation technology does not cause any difficulties: the glue is diluted with water, mixed, added required amount cement. Ready solution should resemble liquid sour cream and lie well on the surface.
Important! Before you make a PVA primer with your own hands, decide on its quantity. The mixture should not be prepared for future use, since unspent excess will eventually lose its binding properties.
Diluted primer is an excellent, economical means of preceding the treatment of walls with wallpaper glue, but is not sufficient for a reliable finish. Is it possible to improve the quality of the primer composition? Repair experts advise adding crushed chalk and liquid resin to the mixture with PVA glue. Their mass should not exceed 5% of the total volume of the composition.
Important cooking conditions:
- Work on creating a primer should be carried out in a warm room, away from drafts and sources of fire.
- Use convenient containers: a large bucket, a basin, a canister with a wide neck.
- Water is added to the glue gradually, the classic ratio is 2:1.
- Constant stirring of the composition will prevent the formation of a surface water layer. To facilitate labor and obtain the greatest homogeneity, you can use a construction mixer.
Priming walls with glue is different in that it forms a film on the treated surface without filling small cracks and gaps. But, given the relatively low cost of the components used, it turns out excellent construction material, which is quickly done at home.
The finishing goals should be clearly defined. Under wallpaper will do a universal primer that does not require increased water resistance. Elite finishing decorative plaster requires a more expensive adhesion coating.
On video: primer deep penetration from PVA.
Correct application technique
Knowing the theoretical techniques of how to dilute PVA for primer, it is necessary to achieve the correct consistency. To begin with, you should try applying the mixture on small area wall intended for wallpaper. The liquid mass is applied to the surface with a paint roller or wide brush, leaving a white mark.
After drying, the resulting film should not be noticeable. This emphasizes the correctness of the chosen proportions. You should add a little water if the opposite occurs.
Primer application work is carried out in several stages:
1. First of all, the corners and hard to reach places. Next, the primer is applied to the main areas using a short-haired roller.
2. The roller must be dipped in the resulting solution and lightly squeezed against the ribbed part of the container. Convenient device is a special bath with an inclined ribbed surface. By rolling a roller over it, you can squeeze out excess liquid. As a result, wet spots and smudges do not form.
3. For best result You can apply another coat of primer. This ensures reliable adhesion of small dust particles and makes it possible to further apply the putty evenly (it will peel off less).
4. You must wait until the surface is completely dry. The wall should take on a whitish color.
The resulting two-layer polymer coating reliably protects the surface, increases adhesion, and allows you to proceed to applying decorative finishing.
Save on repairs
If not PVA, then what?
You can also use regular wallpaper glue as a primer. It has distinctive features:
- does not form yellowness;
- has better absorption;
- does not form a film;
- inexpensive;
- easy and quick to apply.
Another way to make a primer and save money is to use concentrates. The instructions for them indicate how to dilute such a composition. Sometimes it can be increased 10 times.
Before painting acrylic paints Using a self-primer is not advisable. It is enough to mix the coating composition with water in a 1:1 ratio. The paint itself will act as a primer. It should be applied evenly with a roller. Savings are achieved by reducing the applied layers.
Brush, roller or spray gun?
The selection of tools also plays a big role. Applying a primer with a spray gun is a quick job from a technical point of view, but in terms of aesthetics it is not an acceptable option, since it leaves a lot of marks and smudges that are difficult to clean off.
Using a brush is unprofitable from an economic point of view - it increases the consumption of material. Used for working in corners. For large areas, it is more advisable to use a roller with short or medium pile. But on walls that have unevenness in the form of protrusions and dimples, you cannot do without a brush.
PVA primer does not have the properties it has special compounds for repair. Despite this, it is an indispensable tool for preparatory work, allows you to significantly save material resources. Proper preparation, compliance technological process turns a homemade composition into a high-quality primer material.
Who doesn’t know about PVA glue, which is actively used for gluing products from various kinds materials: wood, ceramics, chipboard, linoleum, paper, glass, fabric and leather bases. The popularity of the glue is determined by the high-quality adhesion of the material and the surface to be glued, its affordable cost, increased resistance to moisture, but, at the same time, good solubility in water, which in itself answers the question, how to dilute PVA glue? The purpose of the glue is determined depending on its type.
PVA glue is the most popular substance in the world. It is universal and will be useful both when studying at school and when carrying out repairs in a house or apartment.
What kind of product is this - PVA glue?
The history of the composition goes back more than a century, and it was invented back in 1912 of the last century in Germany. A couple of years later, the glue entered the sales market and began to be produced commercially. In 2018 production capacity glue exceeded a million tons of the substance.
What does the substance consist of?
PVA stands for Polyvinyl Acetate Adhesive, the component composition of which consists of:
- special synthetic fiber based on polyvinyl alcohol - vinalon, which accounts for about 95% of the product;
- various additives that increase plasticity, stability, and adhesion strength.
Main types of PVA glue
The main types of PVA glue compositions, divided into types according to purpose, include:
- stationery - for gluing paper and cardboard bases;
- wallpaper or household - for gluing paper materials to wooden and cemented surfaces;
- construction - for fiberglass, paper and vinyl compounds. Serves as an additive for primer compositions, which helps to increase technological properties and adhesion of subsequently applied materials: putty, plaster, dry construction mixture;
- super M - indispensable for gluing products made from vapor-proof materials, ceramic and porcelain products, fabrics, glass, leather. In addition, it is used when installing various floor coverings;
- Extra - used for gluing wood, plywood, construction mesh, wallpaper (cork, vinyl, paper, fiberglass), sickle. Used as an additive to improve strength;
- Universal - useful when gluing paper and laminated paper decorative plastic on wood, glass and metal surfaces.
Is it possible to dilute the glue and with what?
So, we come to a question that interests many: how to dilute PVA glue? Let us hasten to answer - yes, it is possible. You just have to do it right. How to cope with such a seemingly simple task and not spoil the glue, read on.
In order to cope with the task, try to adhere to some recommendations and dilute the glue only warm water, various types of solvents have a negative effect on technical properties and the structure of the composition, destroying it. In this case, it is necessary to mix the glue as intensively as possible.
How to dilute a heavily thickened composition
Let's figure out whether it is possible to dilute the PVA glue. When the glue dries and becomes very thick, a crust or small dry particles resembling flakes form on its surface. These impurities that the solution may contain should be removed before applying the composition to the surface.
Clumps of jelly consistency can be left as they dissolve when stirred.
How to dilute the dry mixture
You already know how and with what to dilute PVA glue in its usual form, but sometimes you have to work with a dry mixture. Such substances are diluted according to the proportion or ratio indicated on the packaging. The manufacturer recommends that you adhere to these recommendations, otherwise the glue will lose its technical properties and will be useless for gluing.
An exception
If 90% of types of PVA glue can be diluted with water, then 10% falls into a special category adhesive compositions, present on the market and not amenable to dilution with water. They are usually presented in finished form: in a diluted state and in appropriate containers, since they are characterized by an unpleasant chemical odor, and the substance dries out quickly in open cans. To prevent the glue from hardening, try to buy containers that are large enough to apply the glue at one time. This will save both glue and money.
There are exceptions when such glue is diluted, but only with the use of a special synthetic solvent.
How to properly apply diluted glue to a surface
So, having figured out how to dilute thick PVA glue, working with it does not involve any difficulties. It's quite simple. The presence of instructions will simplify the task, since the insert contains brief information about what this or that type of product is used for gluing and how to use it correctly. Since the application of wood glue and paper glue is different in some way, some people encounter problems when gluing wooden surfaces. To prevent unpleasant moments from happening to you, remember a simple rule: apply glue to the side of the product that absorbs the composition more slowly, that is, with a less porous structure.
Is it possible to dilute PVA glue with water? We figured it out. Remember that when working with PVA glue, regardless of the type, follow some rules:
After studying the information provided in the article, you received an answer to the frequently asked question: “how to dilute PVA glue?” Taking into account the recommendations given, the use of glue will be for you rational decision if necessary, connect any parts to each other.
So, we need to glue something to something. What options do we have and how do some adhesives differ from others?
Let's try to consider the main types of adhesives, their disadvantages, areas of application and most importantly
- areas where they cannot be used.
General properties of all adhesives:
- thinner adhesive layer- higher strength
- Excess glue must be removed before the glue dries
- try on seven times, once place the parts to be glued together and press
- There are no universal adhesives; in any case, this is a compromise.
Moment.
A classic, so to speak: liquid, smelly and plastic - all about Moment glue. The recipe goes back to glue 88, developed according to legend specifically for the military, but the moment is its household version. Once upon a time, its formulation included toluene, which has narcotic effect, but then it was banned and the recipe was changed, claiming that the properties had not changed. A very versatile adhesive with a wide range of applications.
The main method of application - as with almost all "old classic school" adhesives - is to apply a layer to both surfaces to be glued, dry, then apply a thin layer and press firmly. It dries completely in about a day. Good coarse glue.
Pros:
Good adhesion to many surfaces, that is, a truly universal adhesive.
After gluing, you can re-glue it if it doesn’t work out (with reservations, since sometimes it can “come apart” in the form of such an eerie “lunar landscape” that you just have to wash it off.
Dilutes well with solvents (tried toluene) to liquid form. Then it can be applied with a brush in a very thin layer. This trick is used to stick foil on surfaces.
It is completely removed from metals and glass without damaging the surface; it can also be removed from some plastics.
Typically used for gluing transparent plastics like polycarbonate and acrylic, since the modern version does not harm these polymers (they can be used to glue protective plates onto optics).
Minuses:
Even when dried, it is slightly plastic, so rigid fixation cannot be achieved.
The adhesive seam is thick, which is due to the gluing principle. It is impossible to achieve precise instant gluing.
The gluing area should be relatively large.
PVA and derivative adhesives (mainly carpentry adhesives).
Excellent water-soluble (diluted with water if thickened) glue for paper and wood. Apply a thin layer to both surfaces, combine and fix. The glue seam when gluing wood is so strong that it can only burst again outside the seam (I personally checked it).
Pros:
Cheap.
Ideal for wood.
Minuses:
For other materials it is practically useless.
BF-2.
Glue Butyral Phenolic (will give little insight, but it sounds funny). This is an alcohol-soluble adhesive for gluing metals, rubber and other materials and their combinations. If it thickens, easily dilute it with alcohol to the desired consistency. Durable after drying. Can be used for impregnation of transformers and electric motor windings. Reacts well to "baking" - holding at high temperature after gluing, which improves the quality of the adhesive seam.
Thermal bonding is possible, when glue is applied to both surfaces, dried and ironed. In this way, it was possible to repair the sagging chipboard lamination in prehistoric Soviet times.
Can be easily "pumped" into paint by adding pigment. So, for example, paint is made for Kalashnikov assault rifles - it is a mixture of the alcohol-soluble pigment Nigrozin and BF-2.
Pros:
Cheap.
Glues metals well.
Minuses:
Low ductility of the adhesive seam.
BF-6.
A close relative of BF-2, but intended for gluing tissue and medical needs (glue a cut, stick a bandage on a wound, etc.). After drying it is plastic. Also alcohol soluble.
Pros:
Cheap.
Plastic glue seam.
It seals small cuts well - drop it, smear it around, wait.
Minuses:
For leather and fabrics only.
Epoxy adhesive.
Two-component adhesive that cures by chemical reaction epoxy resin and hardener, which must be mixed before using the adhesive.
The very high adhesion of the glue allows it to be used over a wide range. True, after drying it can sharply decrease and after using force we will tear the glued parts away from each other (aluminum loves this thing). Scratching the parts to be glued helps a little.
The seam is strong and solid. IN Lately modifications are made to epoxy adhesive with a plasticizer introduced into the composition. This gives a more flexible adhesive seam.
You can also add various fillers to the composition for different purposes to obtain putties. For example, the introduction of aluminum powder (silver) increases the strength of three-dimensional adhesive joints within certain limits.
Very good "fast" epoxy adhesives- Poxipol and Konakt. The contact hardens a little slower, making it more convenient to work. The time from mixing to noticeable thickening is about 5-10 minutes (you don’t have to hold small parts, they won’t move anywhere), it sets seriously in 30 minutes - 1 hour (you can already carefully handle excess glue), and completely hardens within a day.
Epoxy is not susceptible to the release of caustic fumes and solvents, so it can be used for gluing optics.
Pros:
Durable seam.
It hardens in any case, frost will only reduce the hardening time, whereas in the case of nitro adhesives this can increase the time by orders of magnitude.
The high strength of the dried glue allows it machining. It is even possible (to a limited extent) to cast parts using filled epoxy adhesive.
Suitable for working with optics.
Minuses:
Adhesion in liquid and solid forms differs, so tests must be carried out when gluing.
Super glue.
He's like a superhero - he can do anything, he can't be stopped by ordinary means and he always comes to the rescue of everyone. Or so they show us in the movies.
In terms of composition, it is an ester of cyanoacrylic acid, that is, in fact, one can say it is a relative acrylic glass. It is caustic and relatively volatile, so it would be good not to inhale it and protect your eyes.
Although the strangest thing about it is that it does not contain a solvent, that is, it cannot physically fizzle out, only evaporate (slowly, slowly). However, it has a very specific polymerization (hardening) mechanism. It does this upon contact with moisture, especially if the layer of glue is thin. Alkalies and some other substances also activate solidification. That's why he can glue his fingers together so well. If it dries out on its own, it is due to moisture in the air.
Has adhesion to a decent amount different materials, plus it polymerizes well only in thin layer, which is why it is popular - I dropped it, pressed it, the glue spread over the area, met moisture and began to polymerize, and set. And all this in a second or two (if the layer is thin).
Tricks: to speed up polymerization, you can drop water on the seam, but this will lead to a deterioration in quality, since only a thin layer has good strength.
You can get three-dimensional structures using soda (it is alkali, so it starts polymerization): pour a layer, pour superglue on it - it sets instantly. We repeated it, sometimes laying it with fiberglass.
ATTENTION: It is absolutely not suitable for gluing transparent plastics and any modifications to optics. When drying, some of the glue likes to evaporate and settle anywhere, and also corrode the surfaces of plastics, especially polystyrene.
I had a case: I glued protection into a collimator. I took a suitable frame, cut out a round piece from a polycarbonate lens, glued it with superglue and left it to harden - and went to drink tea. When I returned I found a beautiful white raised fingerprint on the polycarbonate. It happened like this: the fingerprint left on the lens absorbed the evaporating cyanoacrylate and the latter set there. As a result, the entire fingerprint was “imprinted” from solidified cyanoacrylate. And how superglue makes polystyrene matte...
If you use some of this glue, it is better to buy it in model stores: they are sold there in large volumes and come in different strengths - low, medium and high. I use a medium-strength model. It is convenient to impregnate all sorts of reinforcements, connections, etc. For example, when installing connectors for reinforcement, I wrap them with strong thread and soak them with superglue.
Pros:
Quickly - I pressed it and in a second it stuck together.
Convenient - a hermetically sealed tube, if you squeeze out the air, is almost eternal.
Moment glue is universal. People often resort to its help in everyday life, but, unfortunately, they sometimes forget about neatness. It is better to practice gluing objects in old clothes and rubber gloves. But if, nevertheless, the glue ends up where it was not intended (on good clothes, the hands of a master, or on some objects), it needs to be cleaned.
If possible, remove the glue immediately before it dries. A “fresh” stain is much easier to dissolve than an old one. If you don’t have a single recommended product on hand, the contaminated area can be moistened with water. This will increase the drying time of the product, and you will have time to find suitable option to remove it.
Anticlean
This special remedy Sold in almost all construction stores. Outwardly, it looks like a tube of glue, but it acts diametrically opposite. Please read the instructions carefully before purchasing. The fact is that anti-glue is an aggressive chemical substance that is not suitable for all surfaces. Although it can be used to quickly and effectively remove stains from the floor, furniture, etc. It must be remembered that anti-glue is a toxic substance, so you need to be careful when using it and, of course, keep it away from children.
Acetone and nail polish remover
It is better to work with acetone at outdoors. A cotton swab or rag is moistened in the product. First, you need to check the effect of the liquid on an inconspicuous area of the surface, since there is a possibility of loss of color of the material.
This method is suitable for removing adhesive from many coatings., including metal and wood. However, be careful with plastic and textiles. Acetone is harmful to delicate fabrics (wool, velvet, silk), as well as to fabrics that contain acetate. After the glue is removed, the item must be washed or washed with soapy water.
Nail polish remover is much less harsh than pure acetone. However, it is also best to first perform an interaction test with the surface being cleaned. The liquid is applied to the stain for 15-20 minutes, then the glue is removed with the hard side of a dishwashing sponge. After this, the item is washed (or washed) in the usual way.
Gasoline and white spirit
These liquids are also aggressive, so they are best used on fresh air or in a well-ventilated area. Operating principle in in this case similar to working with acetone. First, check the interaction with the surface in an inconspicuous area. Then carefully apply the product using a cotton swab, remove any remaining glue and put the item in the wash (or wash it with soapy water). White spirit solvent is recommended as a suitable solution for removing adhesive from iron and plastic.
Dimexide
This one is synthetic medicinal product sold in pharmacies. It dissolves any remaining adhesive on different surfaces, both hard and textile. This is what they recommend craftsmen for removing traces of glue from monitors of laptops, tablets, phones. The work follows the same scheme: apply, wait, wipe off, remove the remaining product with a napkin.
Vinegar and citric acid
You can also prepare solutions for removing glue from vinegar or citric acid. The resulting compositions will be less effective than chemicals, but more gentle.
Recipe with citric acid: 25 g of acid is dissolved in a liter of water. Recipe with vinegar: dilute one part vinegar with two parts water. You need to moisten a cloth in one of the solutions, and then use it to carefully try to wipe off the glue.
Soap solution
This method is suitable for removing dirt from fabric. You need to make a “strong” warm soapy solution and soak the fabric in it for 20 minutes. Then you need to wash the item.
In this case, a solution of any detergent can help. Of course, it will not immediately dissolve all the glue, but it will be able to soften it, which will make removal easier. And while you are busy preparing the soap solution, your hands will also be cleaned if they are also dirty with glue.
Margarine, vegetable oil
Glue residues can also be easily removed from the skin of your hands using oil. They need to smear the contaminated area, wait 15 minutes, and then rinse the skin with warm water. You can also try to remove glue stains from plastic and wood with oil, but this method is only suitable for treated or polished wooden surfaces. This is worth taking into account, otherwise oil stains will be added to the glue stains.
Removing dried adhesive from surfaces is a painstaking undertaking, which is complicated by the presence of high-quality components in its composition. Anyone who knows how to dissolve glue can get rid of the problem. Chemically active solvent materials of natural or synthetic origin can help in solving this problem.
The most accessible solvents
Most versatile natural remedy, when used, you can remove dried traces of carpentry, plant, stationery and polyvinyl acetate composition - water. To clean the surface, simply blot the fresh residue quickly and rinse with water until it disappears. sticky marks. Unfortunately, if the stain is old and firmly ingrained, then it is not possible to remove it using such a solvent.
Another popular remedy that can be used to dissolve glue has proven itself to be sunflower and baby oils. Each of them needs to grease the dried residue several times and wait a while. It will gradually lose its adhesive qualities and the solvent will mix with it, as many types adhesive mixtures are made from oil. Upon completion of the procedure, the remaining marks are easily erased, and the surface is rinsed with water. Vaseline has a similar property; its high fat content promotes the rapid breakdown of molecules.
Among natural solvents, ordinary vinegar can be distinguished. You should wipe the stained area with it and wait half an hour. During this time, the stain will begin to lose strength, dissolve in acid, and the residue will need to be wiped off.
A mixture of baking soda and water in a 2:1 ratio is very effective in this matter. This paste-like substance is applied to the contaminated area, wait until the clot is completely dissolved and rinse with water.
Alcohol is considered an effective solvent, capable of decomposing many adhesive compositions. When applying this drug to the stained area after 5-10 minutes. the strong clot will soften. Next, the residues are freely removed during the process of wet wiping. Acetone has a similar effect, but should be used carefully when cleaning synthetic surfaces. Other known solvents are: gasoline, turpentine, white spirit, ammonia. When using them, for greater efficiency, the adhesive clot is preheated with a hairdryer. Thus, the process of its removal is accelerated.
How to remove PVA?
Of all existing adhesives, PVA is the most susceptible to dissolution. The arsenal of tools that can be used to dissolve PVA glue includes the following materials:
- 1. hot soapy solution - when treating with this material, the surface should be washed with 9% acetic acid or 96% alcohol;
- 2. baking soda perfectly softens hardened residues; to get the result, you need to walk a hard sponge with soda over the PVA layer - it will be wiped off in a minute;
- 3. water softens the dried PVA clot, its soluble elements are separated from the emulsified suspension, the remains can be wiped off with a rag moistened with acetone, methanol, isobenzene or ethyl acetate.
How to get rid of traces of Super glue and Moment glue?
A product such as Super Glue glues any materials together in a matter of seconds. Before you start working with it, you need to familiarize yourself with how to dissolve Super Glue if you need to correct mistakes. Several factors influence the choice of solvent:
- . how long ago the adhesive was used,
- . the type of surface on which it is located,
- . purity of the expected result.
The main thing is not to miss the time of its hardening. Otherwise, the work will become significantly more complicated; most often, the stained surface will lose its attractiveness irrevocably.
Among effective techniques In order to dissolve Super Glue, as well as its analogue Moment, you should select acetone. However, it has a negative effect on varnished materials and may cause more harm than good. This should be taken into account before you start cleaning work. It is possible to remove a fresh stain in a couple of hours using dimethyl sulfoxide, which is freely available in any pharmacy.
No matter how strange it may seem, water is the most durable, but at the same time safe remedy How to dissolve hardened Moment glue. To do this, apply a damp cloth to the contaminated area and cover with polyethylene for a day. Within 24 hours, the clot will gain moisture and can be easily wiped off with an abrasive sponge.
How to dissolve stubborn adhesives?
Many people do not know how to dissolve Titan glue, which belongs to the class of very resistant and difficult to remove compounds based on acrylic copolymers. By effective means Contributing to its dissolution are concentrated plumbing acid, gasoline, dimethyl ketone, turpentine, methylbenzene, ethyl acetate. After soaking in these products, it is necessary to remove the residues mechanically.
When choosing a method for dissolving epoxy glue, you should remember that this will have a significant impact on the performance properties of the final polymer. The addition of solvents helps reduce viscosity, and the strength and water resistance characteristics of the product deteriorate. Suitable for dilution are acetone and denatured alcohol, which can evaporate quickly without remaining in the resin.
When choosing a product to dissolve rubber or 88 glue in case of drying, you can choose gasoline, since it is included in their composition. Dilute the adhesive composition to the consistency of liquid sour cream so that it does not drain from the roller.
Key factors to consider when breeding:
- 1. Adding a solvent significantly reduces the viscosity and strength of the polymer.
- 2. The service life of the adhesive and its curing period are increased.
- 3. Dilution causes the resin to shrink, which increases microcracks.
- 4. The color of the polymer changes.
- 5. Increases fluidity on verticals.