How sofas are made Do-it-yourself corner sofas

You can assemble a corner sofa with your own hands without much effort at home. Ready-made drawings and diagrams will help in this. In the future, it will also be possible to repair the corner sofa yourself.

Corner sofas are very comfortable. They are distinguished by the fact that they occupy a small area, look good, create the necessary coziness and comfort in the room.

There are corner sofas made of fabric, velvet, leather, leather substitutes. Matting is widely used as a beautiful, original and rich upholstery.

Fabric corner sofa Velvet fabric Genuine leather
From eco-leather From matting

Corner sofas fit perfectly into any interior. Such furniture can be freely placed both in the living room and in the kitchen. In addition, it will also serve as a bed.

If you want, but don’t know how to make a corner sofa with your own hands, you need to read the full description first. , how it is assembled. Step-by-step instructions will explain everything in detail and in an accessible way.

Corner sofa assembly instructions

Additionally, you can see photos and videos with a detailed description of the work. It is more reliable to be guided by the recommendations and master classes of those who have already made similar products on their own.

Do-it-yourself corner sofa

In order to make a sofa at home, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Fiberboard (chipboard, 1.6, 0.3 cm);
• timber (preferably pine, section 3 by 5 cm.)
• plywood (1.5, 0.5 cm);
• foam rubber;
• synthetic winterizer;
• upholstery fabric;
• legs for furniture;
• lifting mechanism;
• a set of tools (saw, jigsaw, self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, carpentry glue, screwdriver).

Do not use hardwood blanks (oak, etc.) as materials for a corner sofa with your own hands, as they are quite difficult to process. It is better to take birch as a basis. And the function of nails is better performed by self-tapping screws. They loosen less and better hold structural details.

Frame manufacturing

The first step in making a sofa at home is preparing the frame. In order not to be mistaken with the dimensions, it is better to look at the ready-made diagrams and drawings of the corner sofa, photo. Having studied everything in detail, it is worth getting to work.

Sawing fiberboard (chipboard), bars can be done by yourself, but it is easier to order where building materials were bought.

From the very beginning of the assembly, the armrests are prepared. To do this, a pair of rectangular parts are cut out, which are interconnected by bars. They are placed between the sheets, fastened. Then proceed to the assembly of the frame.

To do this, two identical sidewalls are interconnected using horizontal bars and vertical racks. It turns out the left half of the sofa. The seat frame is inserted into the frame, it is covered with plywood on top. The back is closed with fiberboard (chipboard). If desired, you can change the corner of the sofa by directing it in the other direction.

The right side of the sofa is designed in the same way as they did with the left. Here you only need to remember that there should be a box for linen at the bottom of the sofa.

The bottom of the frame must be covered with plywood, then screw the back, put a lifting mechanism that will unfold and fold the sofa.

foam padding

Having made the frame, you can start stuffing with foam rubber. It should be remembered that the foam for the seat and back should be thicker than for other parts (100 mm.).

In order to properly make the stuffing, you need to take accurate measurements from all the details. Then the foam rubber is cut according to the measurements taken and glued. This is where PVA glue comes in handy. And so that the sofas with your own hands are original and beautiful, you can give the upholstery a certain shape by cutting off its thickness in certain areas.

upholstery fabric

When the do-it-yourself sofa frame is ready, you can move on to its upholstery. The fabric on the corner sofa should be dense, so it will retain its appearance longer and protect the furniture from damage. To protect the sofa, it can be covered with agrotextile. The material is placed on the foam rubber, then it should be covered with sheathing.

We first cut out the fabric according to pre-prepared patterns.

You can simply cover sections of the sofa with material and cut out the details according to their size. Then, using a sewing machine, a cover is made. It is pulled over the product and fixed.

In order for the upholstery fabric to keep its shape better, and for the corner sofa to look more interesting with your own hands, you can make a tightening.
To do this, holes are made under the fabric in fiberboard (chipboard), and the tightening itself is made using nylon loops, originally sewn to the upholstery.

Upholstery options

A wide variety of materials are taken as a cover for a sofa. Often use matting , genuine leather, cotton, flock.

1. Gunny is one of the most durable types of fabric. It is actively used for the manufacture of upholstered furniture. It is undemanding to personal care, gives the product originality. This is a durable material that can function for a long time without losing its appearance. Unlike other materials, matting does not wrinkle and holds its shape well.
2. Genuine leather will give the sofa an expensive look, the material looks good, durable, does not require special care.
3. Cotton is a natural material. It is harmless to health, passes moisture and air. Furniture with such upholstery is perfect for a children's room.
4. Flock is another popular option. It looks like velvet, it contains nylon and nylon pile. This upholstery is very practical, resistant to dirt. Flock is not exposed to sunlight, you should not worry that the coating will fade or burn out in the sun. It is also distinguished by an abundance of colors, you can choose according to your taste.

To choose the upholstery to your taste, you can see a photo of all its options.

A sofa is a furniture that is always needed in the interior. Furniture stores do not often offer those types of sofas or other products that would fit into interior design. It is possible that the owner himself has skills in making furniture, so he can afford to make the desire to make furniture for the house his own come true.

The sofa is an integral part of the interior. And, if the store offers high prices for this furniture, you can make it yourself.

It should be foreseen that various tools will be needed to create a sofa. Having prepared them, you can make a sofa according to your size and your own taste with your own efforts. The product will be made according to an individual drawing, which is associated with its uniqueness.

Then resourcefulness, acumen, skill and knowledge of carpentry can come to the rescue in order to create a unique masterpiece on your own. At the same time, you can know that the use of materials in the process of creating a sofa will not be associated with large cash outlays, as when buying it, given the coloring of the skin to your own taste.

Determining the design of the future product

Before starting work on creating a sofa, it is necessary to design its external image, and then develop the furniture design in the room as a whole. However, you can come up with a corner sofa design that will fit under the main furniture. It should be borne in mind that it is difficult to make high quality sofas at home. You can make a corner sofa yourself by making a frame mounted on stands or product legs.

From time to time, a roller system mechanism is used. Due to the folding seats of the sofa, you can have special access to all its niches located on the sides. Niches will be mounted in the form of small boxes, and then installed on the sofa at their own discretion.

It is necessary to plan the dimensions of the product carefully, because it may not fit in the prepared area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. All calculated sizes are chosen based on your own taste, preferences and the size of the area of ​​​​the room. At this stage, you should prepare a drawing in advance in order to create a regular or corner sofa.

Next, you should visit the building materials store. For beginners doing work related to the installation of a sofa for the first time, the most convenient solution would be to design a folding structure, rather than a corner one. The frame of the product must consist of a frame that is rectangular in shape, mounted on legs, taking into account all suitable dimensions.

To create a frame, bars are used, the best material for the manufacture of which is pine. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the beam. Fasteners should be made so that cracks do not occur. To give the sofa frame maximum strength, you can screw each beam in a cubic shape to the corners of the frame.

Self-tapping screws are suitable for fastening. The bottom of the sofa will consist of plywood, while the dimensions of the sheet must correspond to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe frame. Plywood can be nailed with nails located at the same level. You can make a sofa based on the performance of work in three stages, which includes:

1. Purchase of materials.
2. Tool preparation.
3. Creation of a frame (framework).
4. Product upholstery.

Let's consider each of the stages in more detail.

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Step by step creation of a sofa

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Required materials for the manufacture of the product

You can make a sofa yourself without the use of special and additional types of material; pine timber and plywood are ideal here. First, the product must be designed in detail on paper. It is necessary to carefully consider any detail, for example, the level of inclination of the back of the product, a certain size of the height of its legs, the overall dimensions of the structure as a whole, etc.

It must be taken into account that the entire load from the product will fall on the legs of the sofa and its back, the base must be strong. The back and seat should be provided with appropriate strength, the legs of the product should be firmly fixed on the frame. When creating a sofa, it must be taken into account that the pine timber is prepared taking into account the appropriate size, which is 60x60 mm, and the thickness of the plywood sheets is taken equal to 12 mm. These types of materials are the most common, as they are associated with an affordable offer at an affordable price.

Among all fastening materials, one can distinguish: self-tapping screws and steel corners. The necessary tools will be a screwdriver and a saw. better with the help of foam rubber, tapestry or padding polyester. Strengthen the material with covers with a zipper. The frame can be made from beams, which differ from harder wood species, without any additional disadvantages. All wooden elements must be varnished to preserve the appearance of the tree.

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Where to start assembling the sofa structure

Among the main elements of the sofa, one can distinguish the presence of:

1. Railing.
2. Pillows.
3. frame.
4. Legs.

Making a sofa can conditionally be divided into four stages.

1. Frame assembly. For a frame or wooden frame, it is necessary to prepare bars that do not have visible flaws and are smooth. You can make them from those breeds that are more durable. With pre-prepared tools, the beams are cut. Next, begin to fasten the frame. If there are only few screws for fastening, then it is best to treat each joint with a non-toxic wood glue that is most suitable for the selected material.
2. Production of seats and backs of the sofa. You can make a sofa using foam rubber, which is more economical. Its analogues are also ideal: holofiber or polyurethane foam. The final material has sufficient elasticity, but at the same time flexibility. It can be quickly given the desired shape, it is not able to absorb water. If the filler moves along the frame, then it must be glued to the frame.
3. Sofa upholstery. For sheathing, leather or tapestry can be chosen, which seems to be the more economical option. It all depends on the wishes and financial capabilities. To sheathe the product, you will need a construction stapler. The material is pre-cut, its edges are processed. Then you should give the appropriate fixation to the skin on the details of the wood product, that is, its frame. It is enough to sheathe the sofa once, and later it will not be necessary to spend all your money on its secondary close-fitting. All the work can really be done without an assistant. Can . Another option would be to create custom sofa covers. However, it is necessary to provide for the presence of soft seats, which are pillows.
4. Final processing. It is better to treat each visible wooden element of the sofa with stain and varnish, for which all materials should be prepared at once even before the assembly of the frame begins.

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Using timber and plywood to make a frame

You can prepare the entire set of tools yourself, you must provide for the presence of:

1. Hacksaws.
2. Drills.
3. Fraser.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Roulette and centimeter.
6. Pencil.
7. Rulers.
8. Sandpaper.
9. Scissors.
10. Cutter.
11. Construction stapler.

Not taking into account steel fasteners, glue is used, which allows each of the parts to be firmly and efficiently connected to each other. This will make the structure stronger and safer. Each joint must be glued with a suitable adhesive. It should be ideally suited for a wooden product. Otherwise, it will be uncomfortable to rest and sit on the made sofa.

It will be necessary to assemble a sofa from a bar by creating three frames having a size of 72x1860 mm. You can strengthen the corner parts in the same way, and the installation principle is connected with a spike on the glue. The base of the sofa is made of two frames. The frames must be interconnected by four bars 60x60 mm and a length of about 200 mm.

You will need a glued board, which is laid in the part of the sofa where the mattress will be. It is imperative to strengthen the hinges to the frame, and the third frame must be lined with a board, like the side walls of the sofa. The back of the product should be fixed to the wall with 5-6 loops, which will guarantee the product the required level, the carrying capacity of which is from 150 to 200 kg, the back should rest on both sides of the rack, if it is unfolded.

When the manufacture of the sofa seat is already completed, they begin to create the frame of the back of the product.

This can be done by following the appropriate steps, the same as when creating the seat of the product. If a folding sofa model is required, then it is better to firmly fix the back of the product. This can be done using reliable steel angles of sufficient thickness. Experts do not recommend making the back strictly vertical.

It is always a pleasure to return home and, sitting on a comfortable sofa, enjoy the comfort of home. Sofas are going out of fashion so quickly now that it is better to save a lot of money and make such furniture at home, especially if the interior space is made in a restrained style.

The main advantages of independent production of upholstered furniture:

• Saving money. A sofa made by yourself will cost the owner several times cheaper than purchased in a store.

• Quality control. Making a sofa on your own, you can carefully approach the choice of basic and consumable materials, choose only high-quality, dried timber, certified foam rubber of suitable density, as well as reliable, beautiful and durable upholstery.

• Wide choice of designs. Before you make a sofa with your own hands, you should first evaluate the style of the room in which it will be located and choose the design of the product in accordance with the interior design of the room.

• Optimal dimensions. When planning to make a sofa yourself, its dimensions and shape can be selected taking into account the actual dimensions of the room, fitting it into the free space.

• Change of upholstery during operation. Having learned once to carry out assembly work and upholstery hauling, you can replace textiles or other coatings on the product at any time.

• Pride in a job well done. A hand-made sofa will always be the pride of its owner, which he can boast of to his acquaintances and friends.

Anyone with a low level of training and a certain set of tools can make a simple sofa on their own using assembly diagrams.

What is a sofa bed

In Soviet times, it was enough to say that a sofa bed was needed, and it became clear to everyone what a person needed. Modern sofas that can also be used as a bed differ not only in appearance, but also in the way of transformation.

Type of mechanism	Description and method of transformation
	The mechanism of a simple book can be safely called the oldest, but at the same time the simplest. In order for such a sofa to turn into a bed, it is enough to raise the front part until a characteristic click appears and lower it. To assemble the sofa, repeat the steps. Of the positive characteristics, one can note the presence of a box for storing linen and the cheapness of the mechanism, but at the same time there is a significant drawback - considerable efforts must be made to transform it. A certain distance from the wall must also be maintained for the free lowering of the backrest, which is not always convenient in small apartments.
	Such a sofa is an improved model of the "book" and is distinguished by the fact that the backrest can be installed in an intermediate state, that is, reclining. The transformation mechanism is more expensive, but more functional. When unfolding the sofa, you need to focus on the number of clicks of the backrest fixing mechanism - one or two. The size of the department for storing linen depends on the design features.
	The mechanism of such a sofa is very durable, so you do not have to fear that it will wear out with frequent unfolding. It unfolds without much effort - just pull the strap, and the front part will extend, followed by the entire mechanism. After these steps, the sofa can be used as a bed.
	This mechanism is most often used in corner sofas. The transformation mechanism is very simple - there is a retractable part from below, with a soft pillow in it, which is fixed manually in its place. Even a physically weak person can decompose. This sofa does not have a drawer for linen.
	The mechanism of such a sofa is hidden under a soft pillow, which each time will need to be removed before laying it out. After that, the mechanism is pulled out and unfolded. The bed consists of 3 sections, which are not very comfortable to sleep on, so a sofa with such a mechanism is extremely inconvenient for everyday use. It is better if it has to be laid out occasionally, for example, for guests. There is no laundry box.
	Unlike the French version, the American version uses a different principle - unfolding occurs along with the back. Decomposing is not at all difficult - just pull the back towards you. In the unfolded state, such a sofa bed is more comfortable for sleeping, and the convenience of the layout makes the model more popular.
	A sofa with an accordion mechanism is very comfortable for sleeping, as it is wide and the mattress is even. It is also not difficult to expand such a sofa - just raise the seat when a characteristic click appears, and then push it out. It is during the transformation that it becomes clear why this mechanism is so called - it moves apart, like accordion bellows. A sofa with such a mechanism is quite reliable, takes up little space when folded, it is possible to use drawers for linen.
	"Eurobook" is very reliable, since there are no mechanisms at all. Having pulled out the front part, the back is simply lowered - it is hinged. It is comfortable to sleep, and even there is a large drawer for linen. In order not to damage the floor covering with legs, they must be upholstered with soft material, nailed with plastic tips or installed rollers.

Video: how to make a sofa bed

What is sofa sofa

People sometimes say that they need a sofa sofa. It is important here to define what is meant by this name. Now the differences between a sofa, a sofa and an ottoman are gradually being erased. For example, on the site of a furniture store there is no division: both the sofa and the sofa and the ottoman are called sofas, and on another site they sell a sofa ottoman, calling it a sofa. The comparative analysis provided in the table will help to understand this issue.

Sofa	Sofa
Sufficiently high back, significantly higher than the armrests.	The back is low, made on the same level with the armrests.
The seat is soft, can consist of several pillows.	The seat is flat and very wide, most often solid.
The contours are rounded, emphasizing the elegance of the product.	The shape is angular, without smooth transitions.
High.	Low.
Volumetric and beautiful.	Compact, inelegant.
Multifunctional.	The number of functions is minimal.

Now let's move on to the process of making a sofa.

How to make a chester sofa

To do the job you will need a tool:

• manual circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• stapler (preferably pneumatic, but if there is no compressor, then you have to work manually);
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• marker and pencil;
• ruler and tape measure.

This standard set of tools will be essential in the manufacture of any sofa.

So, you should prepare all the blanks and cut grooves in them in accordance with the sketches presented.

The assembly diagram is presented by a number of photographs, sequentially showing the stages of work.

Inserting the workpieces into pre-cut grooves, fix them with self-tapping screws.

First, crossbars smeared with PVA glue are fixed on the racks.

The holders are screwed to the rail with self-tapping screws and fixed with brackets, after which the part is fixed on the frame.

The armrests and the front of the sofa are upholstered in fiberboard.

We draw the center line and mark 14.5 cm on it - this is how the markings are made for the buttons, which will then be installed. Then, holes are drilled in the marked places using a pen drill.

After sheathing with fabric, we proceed to gluing foam rubber to the frame. In those places where it is inconvenient to glue, you can shoot the foam rubber with a stapler.

Now we will make two sketches, having performed the necessary measurements.

First, measure the distance from the top button to the side bar. We do the same with the back - from the button to the back bar. You also need to measure the distance from the front pillar to the first top button on the armrest. All these dimensions are entered in the sketch.

• Size L is the length of the arc from the button to the top bar.
• L + 50 is 50 mm to shoot.
• 155 is the distance between the rows.
• This data is not final, as it will still change.
• 195 is the size between the buttons horizontally. On the bar it was 145mm, but now 50mm has been added to the folds.
• Each row comes with a 97.5mm offset.
• Green shows a 50 mm edge allowance.
• Bottom distance N this is the distance from the bottom button to the bar with an allowance.

Given all these dimensions, we obtain the dimensions we need.

In the second figure, we see that there is also a distance V from the front bar to the top extreme button.

After obtaining these dimensions, we transfer it all to the fabric.

Now let's make a carriage tie. How to do it right, and how you can do without a button press, you can find out by watching the following video.

Video: correct and incorrect carriage coupler

Now we need to make a mattress. To do this, a snake spring is fixed on the base, and a dense woven material is placed on top of it. Then a coconut trunk is laid, then foam rubber of 35 (or 42) density 10 cm thick. We will lay a synthetic winterizer on top, and only after that you can proceed to lining the sofa with fabric (or leather).

This sofa will be comfortable, beautiful and durable.

After viewing the following slide show, you can watch the assembly process of a similar design.

Video: sofa assembly process

As you have noticed, the work cannot be called easy, so without experience it will not be easy to make a high-quality chester sofa.

How to make a corner sofa

Now corner sofas are very popular, but this is not only a tribute to fashion. This design allows you to save space in a small apartment. However, this is not an economical option, such furniture will serve as a decoration for both small and large rooms.

Video: making a corner sofa in an apartment

In our case, we will consider the process of making a soft sofa for a small apartment. Chipboard will serve as the basis.

As a rule, the size of each sofa is individual, as it is adjusted to the dimensions of the room, but the sketch presented will help you navigate the further work.

In order for all the details to turn out to be the right size, it is necessary to make a pattern, outline the contour of the workpiece along it. According to the marked markings, all the details are cut out with an electric jigsaw, after which you can proceed with assembling the sofa. Instead of wood screws, it is better to use confirmations, since they are just designed for reliable fastening of chipboard parts.

Since our sofa will not be solid, but in two parts, we will assemble them one by one. First, let's deal with the sofa, and then the attached corner part.

We will not dwell on the manufacturing process of the soft part, since this information was presented in the previous section.

As a result, we should get such a small sofa. Please note that the spacer, installed in the middle, has a recess sufficient so that it does not prevent the springs from stretching to the maximum level under the weight of a person.

The back of the attached part of the corner sofa should be a continuation of the main part, but the lower part is made lifting, which allows you to hide bedding inside.

The lower part is made in the form of a box, the cover of which will be the soft part of the sofa.

To maintain the lid in the raised state will be a mechanism that simultaneously performs the role of hinges.

It turned out to be a very decent and comfortable corner sofa.

What should be a sofa for the kitchen

Since even in the same house the sizes of kitchens can vary somewhat, it is necessary to determine as accurately as possible the dimensions of the sofa for this room. Since the design is usually simple, it will not be difficult to draw a sketch that will indicate the necessary data.

Particular attention should be paid to the height of the seat. The legs will constantly be in an uncomfortable position if the seat is too high or too low. If your height is "non-standard", you are probably familiar with this problem. In any case, it is better to measure the height of your favorite chair, but you should not forget about other family members.

You can also make a simpler non-folding design, which is often called a sofa chair.

Video: how to make a corner sofa in the kitchen

How to make a eurobook sofa

What is a sofa-book, all people know, but what is a eurobook, few people know. In essence, this is an improved model of an ordinary folding sofa. The design of this model allows you to install it close to the wall and even in the middle of the room. The transformation method is also different, since the seat is pushed forward, and the back rests on the vacant seat. Another nice feature of the eurobook is that in the unfolded state, in terms of convenience, such a sofa is in no way inferior to a bed, since there is no deep depression in the middle, and 2 halves of the same size, almost flat.

There are not so many disadvantages, but one - significant - is worth mentioning: when the seat is pulled out, the legs of the sofa sliding along the floor can scratch and even ruin the floor covering.

Frame assembly

First, we will make frames for the soft parts of the future sofa. To do this, we need 4 two-meter even beams without knots 40 × 40 mm, and from the same beam 14 pieces of 72 cm each.

Pieces of bars are screwed to the four bars along the edges - they will play the role of amplifiers. To fix the frame, we will use wood screws 4.2 × 70 mm.

Now you can assemble the frame, but for now use 1 self-tapping screw per corner.

A sheet of plywood with a thickness of 5 mm is laid on the assembled frame. It must be fixed on the narrow part of the frame with self-tapping screws (or staples), and then align the frame and check that the plane of this part is even. Then you can screw the sheet completely.

It's time to fix the crossbars. If they are fixed on the seat at regular intervals, then one rib should be installed in the center in the back, and 2 - with an indent of 195 mm from the edge. The rest are attached randomly.

Making a box

For the box, you need to make 2 guides from 40 × 40 mm bars. Cuts are made on both sides, reducing the height by 15 mm.

We will use the same bars 40 × 40 mm as legs. We sharpen their corners a little.

First, we retreat 50 mm along the edges from the top of the sidewall, since we have a boss 50 mm high. If you have a different boss, then the distance should be equal to its height.

They screwed the guide, then the legs are screwed close to the guide. The second sidewall is done in exactly the same way.

Then the longitudinal part is taken, all this is laid on a flat surface and twisted with 50 mm self-tapping screws.

A jumper is screwed to the finished box, and then a plywood bottom.

Having installed the box on the legs, on the one hand we will make an amplifier for the loop from the bar.

sofa legs

Now we will make the legs for the sofa. It will be necessary to make two legs for sitting. We also use a 40x40 mm bar for this purpose. The length of the leg will be equal to the height of our box from the floor. We retreat 8 cm from the edge and grind the edges. We process the edge with a stain so that it is beautiful. We do the same with the legs and on the box.

If there is a desire, then the legs can be upholstered in leather, and a plastic heel can be nailed from below, which will easily slide on the floor.

So we assembled the back and seat frames. We sew the back frame on the back of the fiberboard. The seat frame is not sheathed. In addition, we will fasten the bars on the seat frame, which will play the role of a support for the legs.

seat assembly

Now let's start installing the tsargi. We take our king and lay it evenly. Where the bars pass, it will be necessary to make cuts. We mark a little with a margin those places where the boards will pass. Cutting depth 40 mm.

Having made cuts in the drawer, we install it on the seat and fasten it. The height of the drawer should not be less than 150 mm.

Now the legs are screwed on. Additionally, the fastening can be strengthened with a furniture screw.

From the remnants of plywood we cut out such a figure. Its size can be arbitrary. Then we cut out exactly the same second figure along it.

Each part is attached with 35mm self-tapping screws to the frame and leg.

The remaining fiberboard can be used to smooth the transition by attaching it with staples.

Now you can start trimming.

drawer upholstery

We will only sheathe the front and sides of the box with fabric.

Let's start nailing the fabric from the top of the front wall. Then the side ones.

After nailing the fabric, a strip of thick cardboard 15 mm wide is nailed over it.

The fabric is stretched over the body, the box is turned upside down, and the fabric is secured from below.

Making foam pillows

To complete the work, you will need 3 sheets of foam rubber, with a density of at least 30, 1 × 2 m in size and 40 mm thick. You will also need a small piece of foam rubber 20 mm thick.

We cut the foam rubber for our pillows. To do this, use a sharp knife and a ruler.

From scraps of foam rubber we will make the second layer, as a result of which the thickness of the mattress will be 80 mm. If the weight of the person who will sleep on this sofa is more than 90 kg, then it is better to use foam rubber 50 mm thick.

For gluing foam rubber, it is best to use glue that is specifically designed for this purpose. You can also use titanium glue, which is sold in hardware stores. It also glues foam rubber well, but it will only dry a little longer.

And here, the foam rubber is pasted. At the back, the foam rubber is flush with the base, and protrudes 2 cm on the sides and front.

The protrusions of the pillow foam are made in such a way that these voids can be sealed with foam rubber 2 cm thick.

Having pasted over the frame with foam rubber, you can proceed to further work.

Seat upholstery

Consider 2 options for upholstery of the sofa seat. One of them is sewing a cover on a sewing machine. Using another option, you can sheathe the sofa with a single piece of fabric without using a sewing machine. To do this, in the front part, the fabric is collected with an accordion and nailed in this state. From the back of the pillow, the fabric is simply laid so that the excess is inside, and is also nailed.

We will use a ready-made cover with straps sewn to it.

Having pulled the cover on the front part, we pull the rope outward through the drilled holes of the ropes with a wire.

The cover shoots to the sofa.

Having upholstered the sofa, you can do the weights. Each rope is pulled from the back so that all points are lowered to the same depth. After adjustment, the edge of the rope is shot with staples to the bottom of the sofa.

Back upholstery

Now you can start trimming the back. In the same way as for the seat, on the inside the foam rubber will be glued along the edge of the back, and its side parts will have a protrusion of 2 cm.

In those places where the mattress protrudes above the base, we glue 4 cm strips of foam rubber 2 cm thick.

On top of the pillow we make markings for tightening, and we sheathe the bottom with batting.

We do not sheathe it to the very bottom, since there will be a box and there is no need for sheathing there. In addition, if sheathed to the bottom, it will be inconvenient to put loops.

Now let's put on a cover.

Having fixed the cover on the back, you need to take another piece of fabric and upholster the back on top of the sheathing.

When using the standard cover, the upholstery is done in exactly the same way as the upholstery of the seat.

Hinge installation and assembly

The middle loop is screwed in the middle with self-tapping screws. When attaching the extreme loops, the lower self-tapping screw goes into the bar. The upper holes are fastened with screws, since there is no bar in that place.

After we have screwed the hinges onto the box, we lay out our sofa in the way it should be in the unfolded state. That is, we put the box, we put the seat on the box. We push the seat forward as far as possible so that the bosses rest against the front wall.

Why do we lay the back in a supine state so that it lies flat near the seat. You need to measure the distance from the edge of the back to the drawer. In our case, it turned out 21 centimeters.

Turning the back, we put a box on it, and set the distance that we measured, that is, 21 cm.

Now it remains to fasten the hinges to the back with screws.

This completes the assembly of the eurobook, and the product can be used.

Eurobook sofa drawing

Sofa with tick-tock mechanism

The manufacturing process of such a sofa is not much different from similar ones. The main difference is the use of the tick tock mechanism, the principle of which is shown in the video.

Tick-tock sofa drawing

Assembling a sofa from pallets

Is it possible to make a sofa out of pallets? Of course, you will answer, adding that it will be in the country, in the garage or on the veranda, and in most cases this is where pallet products are located, but you can also make furniture for living quarters from this material.

Depending on the purpose of the sofa, you need to choose pallets. So, for the manufacture of furniture for a summer house or a garage, old pallets are suitable, but for a living space it is better to purchase whole, slightly worn pallets.

The process of making a sofa from a pallet

Having acquired pallets, the first thing to do is to inspect them, determining which one will go where. In our design, niches for insert boxes will be cut out. After preparing the pallets, they must be carefully sanded.

In the process of assembling the sofa, the pallets are fastened with metal plates, which are screwed with self-tapping screws.

Where possible, the pallets are rolled together directly.

We also cut out and install armrests from pallets.

To strengthen the fixation of the backrest, struts are installed on the sides.

Fiberboard is used for the bottom lining, and the armrests and back are upholstered with fabric over the laid foam rubber.

Linen boxes will be installed in these niches.

It remains to do the soft part. For this, a mattress and 3 pillows were used, for which covers were sewn from the same fabric that was used for upholstery.

Now the sofa can be used.

The process of making sofas from pallets of various designs can be viewed in a selection of videos.

Video: assembling various sofas from pallets

Photo of sofas from pallets

Making a sofa from a bath

Although such a structure can hardly be called a sofa, the design still has a right to exist.

So, to make a sofa, you need an old cast-iron bath, which is time to throw it away. The first step is to clean it of rust and debris.

Now let's open the legs. If the nuts do not give in, then they need to be moistened with kerosene, and wait half an hour. If they still do not unscrew after that, then the procedure should be repeated.

Let's start marking the bath. This will require a marker.

According to the markup applied by the grinder, we cut off the unnecessary part.

The cut must be processed by rounding the edges.

The bathroom is painted blue.

Let's make the legs yellow.

When screwing the legs to the body of the bath, use new nuts, remembering to put a washer.

In order for the paint to adhere well to the inside of the bath, it must be sanded.

From the inside, we will paint the surface with white enamel, but you can choose any color that suits you.

For the manufacture of the mattress, we will use foam rubber 50 mm thick, and we will sew a cover from the fabric.

It remains to install our mini sofa and put the mattress inside.

Video: how to make a sofa out of a bath

Use of plastic bottles

The scope of plastic bottles is very large, up to the manufacture of furniture. How to make a sofa from these containers is described in detail in the video.

Video: unusual homemade sofas

How to sew a cover

To make the body marvelous is already a lot, but it is also important to sheathe it beautifully. Given the fact that the fabric is expensive and not bought with a margin, it is important to make the right patterns and sew a cover out of them.

What fabric to choose?

Depending on where and in what conditions the sofa will be used, a suitable fabric is selected. Let's look at a few examples.

Where is the sofa	Type of fabric
	In the living room, the sofa is often used, and not only by people living in the apartment. Guests often sit on it during a meal, so there is a high probability that a cutlet or a piece of fish in vegetable oil will fall on it. Taking this into account, it is better to use synthetic fabrics, since they practically do not absorb moisture, including fats, and they wash well.
	In the bedroom, the sofa is used to sleep on it or just relax. Instead of synthetic fabrics, it is better to use natural materials, or those containing at least 50% natural fibers. Flock is often used, as this type of fabric is durable, does not cause allergies and does not lint.
	Concerned about the health of the child, it is better to use cotton fabrics that do not cause allergies. This type of sheathing has one significant drawback - it gets dirty easily, which makes it impractical. To improve the quality of the fabric, you can use Teflon impregnation.
	In the area of ​​​​regular eating, there is a high probability of contamination of the upholstery of the sofa with food. The use of fabric is impractical and unprofitable, so it is better to use high-quality leatherette, which is made specifically for this purpose. Poor-quality leatherette will very soon begin to flake off the base.

How to cut

When repairing an old sofa, you can use the removed fabric as a pattern, but when sheathing a new sofa, you will have to cut it yourself. How to make the right pattern?

Covered with a single piece of fabric

This technology has already been briefly mentioned in the article, now we will describe the whole process in detail. For example, we will use the sofa seat and instead of a single piece of fabric, we will demonstrate using a piece that remained after sewing the cover.

So, in order to upholster a separate element of upholstered furniture, you need to cut a piece of fabric with which you could wrap the part so that the edges can be fixed from below.

After stretching the fabric into parts, it must be nailed with staples in front and behind. Then the hanging corner in the front is stretched, and fixed from below. The fabric is laid out in folds so that they converge at one point, and nailed with staples.

The back of the seat will be turned towards the wall, so you can not lay it out, but simply fold it, leaving the excess inside, and fix it in this state.

Sewing a cover for a non-folding sofa

The described technology will allow an inexperienced person to cut and sew a cover not only for a new, but also for an old sofa.

It took 3.5 meters of fabric and a spool of thread to sew this cover.

So, you need to throw the fabric on the sofa, wrong side up, placing it the way the finished cover will be located.

We will put marks so that we can then cut the fabric along them.

In these places, we cut the fabric to the sofa itself.

The seat section must be fastened to the back fabric.

With the help of needles, it is necessary to chop the fabric along all the intended seams. Instead of needles, you can use pins or sew with a basting stitch.

Having fastened all parts of the cover, remove it.

Having outlined the seams, put the cover on the sofa - it should be put on without much effort, fitting the sheathed product. If it turned out to be too tight or too loose, then this must be corrected by removing it.

Now you can sew the cover.

Then a frill is sewn to it. If the cover is intended for upholstery of the sofa, then the frill does not need to be sewn, as it will be inconvenient to fix the fabric. The frill can then be nailed if the need arises.

The result is such a pretty sofa. Based on this example, you can cover any sofa, but for a new one, it is better to sew separate covers for the back and seat.

As you can see, it is quite possible to make a sofa and sheathe it at home.

Sketches of sofas with dimensions

In order to make furniture, you need to create a drawing, it will also be impossible to make a sofa without this stage. It is not necessary to purchase expensive materials for sofas, including timber with a large cross section or laminated boards. It is not recommended to equip complex spiked joints, since only a professional carpenter is able to make them. It is not worth using nails as fasteners, since such connections will loosen pretty soon and the sofa will creak. Self-tapping screws would be the best solution. Additionally, you need to apply glue.

Making a corner sofa

In order to make the corner design of the sofa, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

Figure 1. Schematic drawing of a sofa, the dimensions of which can be adjusted depending on the dimensions of the living room.

• pine timber 30x50 mm;
• 5 and 15 mm plywood;
• lifting mechanism;
• 3 mm fiberboard;
• 16 mm chipboard;
• legs in the amount of 9 pcs.;
• 20- and 40 mm foam rubber;
• upholstery fabric;
• holofiber;
• synthetic winterizer;
• batting,
• hacksaw;
• miter box;
• stapler;
• drill;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver

Figure 2. Drawing of a sofa with measurements.

On fig. 1 shows a schematic, the dimensions of which can be adjusted depending on the dimensions of the living room. Work should begin with the unfolding of the elements, including: frame, backrest, armrests, seat. Assembly must be done in the following order. The armrests must be the same, and they are assembled using self-tapping screws.

You can deal with the frame of the left side by preparing two sidewalls, to which the longitudinal bars are strengthened, and after that - the racks. The latter should be reinforced with transverse ties. Now you can proceed to the installation of the seat of the left side. It is necessary to carry out the installation of the seat frame. As soon as the frame is installed in the frame, plywood needs to be strengthened from above. After that, you can fix the fiberboard to the back of the left side. At the next stage, you can proceed to the installation of the right side.

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Folding product under the Japanese futon

For the manufacture of a sofa, the frame of which can be sheathed or ennobled with Japanese futons, pine furniture panels should be used.

The main modules, seat and back have frames that are mounted by connecting two side walls in front and behind with the help of boards. To the elements that are located along, it will be necessary to strengthen the base for the mattress, which includes transverse slats.

Figure 3. Dimensions of blanks that need to be prepared before starting work.

On fig. 2 you can see the design drawings with dimensions. And fig. 3 contains the dimensions of the blanks that must be prepared before starting work.

Using a drawing and a circular saw, you need to cut the material. Corners are recommended to be processed with a jigsaw, smoothing the edges with fine-grained sandpaper. Before starting the installation, the elements must be coated with acrylic varnish, and then left for a while to dry. The side parts of the seat must be connected to each other by longitudinal boards, using 2 dowels planted on glue. The furniture coupler will allow to give to a design additional rigidity. The same technology should be used to assemble the back of the sofa.

Swivel joints must be equipped with bolts and hex nuts. To the longitudinal elements of the back and seat with screws and glue, you need to strengthen the bars 30x30 mm.

In the holes of the longitudinal boards with a diameter of 10 mm, you need to install bushings, which are borrowed from furniture sets. M5x80 screws should be installed in them. You can mate the swivel joints of the legs with 80 mm screws. The slats need to be fixed with a belt tape, for which you should press a segment to the workbench with clamps, which will act as a stop.

The seat and back frames must be bolted together. In order to get a strong connection of the sidewalls of the back, you need to glue the bars and press them with clamps until the drying is complete. The cross rails are mounted on screws, which must be fixed one at a time on both sides.

With the help of a self-prepared drawing, you can make any sofa, but it is better to entrust cutting to professionals in their field.

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, a sofa is a very complex product, one of the most difficult in furniture production, so the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, relatively little functional and not very strong and durable. This publication is designed to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will pass on to their grandchildren, unless they have to be pulled over. And designed for rooms with the widest range of conditions of use: from a garden gazebo to a kitchen and a children's room.

It’s not as difficult as it might seem, and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for summer cottages, nurseries, temporary use, until the money is collected for furniture) is quite possible in the garage, shed and even on the balcony. Furniture makers of the old days worked that way. High-tech "bells and whistles" make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the design of the furniture is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions, during its manufacture, can almost always be replaced, albeit more labor-intensive and requiring skill with more ingenuity than a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor, but produced with a hand tool.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is a corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially evident in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping and living sofa-corner, pos. And in the figure, folded, it has no sleepy look and the most terry orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (in the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded, it turns into a double bed. These are also called sofas for bachelors: I’m tired, I’m not up to it - I’ll fall asleep on a single bed. And another (or forever the only) passion came - enough space for two to get settled, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, nothing complicated: uniformly designed and put together a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in a corner is not only a bad omen, but also uncomfortable, therefore, in recent years, the corner seat is increasingly being replaced with a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The scheme of the device of such a kitchen corner is shown in fig. below. You can dine alone on it if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and wardrobe trunks (the so-called sofa boxes) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of homemade products, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam scheme (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections - according to the place in the room; other dimensions are typical, see below. The material of the sidewalls is a hardwood board 40 mm or chipboard 36 mm. The bottom of the sofa - chipboard 12-16 mm on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a board 30 mm, bars 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm (shelf supports). Assembly - on self-tapping screws, dowels and a half-tree tie-in, all with PVA gluing or Moment. Materials at current prices require no more than 3,000 rubles.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - sofas, in the presence of a lifting drawer, back and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism is added to them and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a box. Typical dimensions of the sofa:

• Length - 1200-1900 mm.
• Sofa width - 550-700 mm.
• The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
• Back height, no add. pillows - 200-700 mm.
• Back tilt - 5-20 degrees.
• The height of the "sitting" surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

• Legs - 50-70 mm.
• Carrier frame - 50-100 mm.
• Box - 150-250 mm.
• The bottom of the sofa (with frame) - 55-75 mm.

Thus, up to 120 mm remains for the soft stuffing with lining. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work on making a sofa is its stuffing, sheathing and tightness. These are different production operations; each of them individually and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves in Runet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which are short-lived in themselves. Secondly, they are fitted according to a simplified system with turning the corners from the inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the skin. And most importantly, according to this method of work, there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for tightening; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, serious preparatory work will be required. Its essential subtleties will be described later; beginners are advised to fit the sofa in the old amateur way with a saddle fitting. The pros don't work much for them. it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of prosperity?), when it was necessary to sign up for furniture upholstery for a year, and even give a bribe, it was also successfully used by "full dummies". The sofa is stitched step by step as follows:

1. The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (can be propylene);
2. Install soft padding, most often - foam mats;
3. They fit soft, in order of preference, spandbond, synthetic winterizer, batting;
4. On a piece of decorative fabric, the backstage is swept under the cords, if decorative scars / tightenings are provided, see below;
5. A decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown onto the product with the inside out, pulled off, as described below, and the corners are swept with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with a scar outward;
6. After a day, they check if it wrinkles somewhere, if it sags, if the pattern, especially geometric, has led, and if necessary, correct the corners;
7. If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
8. Pull cords into the backstage for tightening, if necessary;
9. They throw a cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
10. After another day, they check according to the drawing, adjust the tension threads ;;
11. Everything is OK - fix the lapels;
12. Form decorative ties.

The procedure, as you can see, is quite complicated and long. This is explained by the fact that the properties of tissues, incl. upholstery, differ markedly within the piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience, now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Home-made templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the consumption of tissue. A rough estimate according to the method: the length of a cut 150 cm wide is equal to 2 sofa widths + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the cut length using templates (allowance - from 15 cm) saves up to 1 m in length (!); how much it is in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if a sofa is being reupholstered, it is undesirable to use the old sheathing as a pattern. Under a microscope or a magnifying glass, it is clearly seen that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same, from the same machine, jacquard or tapestry.

Additional explanation is also required. 1-3. If you fill the skin hastily, wood-glue-synthetic winterizer-foam rubber-decor, then after a while it will turn out that the skin is greasy, to the touch, especially in summer, sticky, and the dearest parts of the body are uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what is this life span for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads from below and from above to wick away fumes/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and box, if the design of the item does not provide for any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. The lapels of the fabric at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection, because. vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads hold extra. fasteners, see below.

Note: the famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of ​​silent blocks in the tracks came to his mind when he was repairing his sofa. It is not surprising that a rich man himself was busy with furniture, Christie was an engineer of the second kind. The Ι clan shifts papers at the table, and the ΙΙ-th can do with his hands everything he has thought of.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism are installed on the box (in the simplest case, piano / card loops and a limiter cord). Perhaps the sofa will be stiff with the mattress loose on it. In any case, the sofa is also upholstered in advance separately.

A special case is office sofas, etc., operated in adverse conditions with the possibility of inaccurate use. Their carrier system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for amateurs to use the connections shown there with confirmations obliquely. In the presence of special equipment and accessories, "oblique screws" are economical and technologically advanced and therefore are widely used in the industrial production of furniture of classes up to medium. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, it is problematic, if not impossible, to drill very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and immediately in 2 mating parts. And self-tapping screws that have parted to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple sofa of a beam scheme is shown in fig. It fits best in the gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, pillows are brought / taken away as they are used, and the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (it can be worked out) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion before assembly. Finishing - acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

To the dacha, where the rain still does not pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a home-made sofa of a simplified beam system, its device is on the left on the trail. rice. Its basis is strong sidewalls-armrests and a pair of transverse beams. Completes the box-bridge power circuit; in this case, necessarily with 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

• Armrests - plywood 20-24 mm with overlays from the board at the top (so that they are wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen), chipboard 30-36 mm.
• Drawer - oak / beech board 30 mm; bottom - plywood from 6 mm.
• Leg beams - any industrial wood.
• The back is the same, a shield, (300-400) x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled, this method will still come in handy for us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the beams from the timber, but also to the sidewalls from the inside in a zigzag (snake) with a step of 120-150 mm with an indent from the edge of the board by 30 mm. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a greater proportion of dynamic sign-variables, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to fill up the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon loosen. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers is assembled, shown on the right in the figure; box assembly diagram down there on the right. The material of all valleys is oak/beech 30 mm; sidewalls and the bottom of the sofa plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - on glue.

Note: it is not worth using laminated chipboard - only the E0 phenol class is acceptable for children's furniture, but this material is rather fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to raise a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, it will not work to lift the sofa back: the back is in the way. It remains to move forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the hostess is not a tall two-meter tall, how can she put / get something? To roll over entirely in a box and squeak, jerking slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly, not requiring high precision, the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique rhombus with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa couch with it, is shown in fig.

Note: the author knows a curious case with an oblique rhombus. A drunk but skilled man, making this ottoman, fenced off the cubbyholes behind the levers (they say, there is also some kind of mechanics) and arranged hiding places for bottles with the necessary swill in them. He even brought the tubes under the lining behind the back. And the better half is more than 10 years old, until he went into a deaf bogged down and did not split himself, and it was not clear why this day is a day drunk, and he does not run to the store for a bubble.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and in the professional world, innovative works appear all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for unfolding a classic sofa-book is a rather capricious thing. Either he wedges / seizes, then it’s hard for ladies’ hands to assemble / disassemble the sofa, then it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the chosen sample finds that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces made with a fairly high accuracy, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, lovers most often make sofa beds roll-out / pull-out.

Here, 2 systems are most common, with a retractable half of the free bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles' heel is the legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravitational ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break, a sofa that sags when extended will help.

The bridge scheme is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also be bedside tables. True, they will have to reach out to them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep with their feet forward.

The device of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge scheme is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper paired rollers (guides/stops) run in the troughs of the drawer. Pay attention to children. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but just a decorative overlay. The surfaces of the sleeping halves A and B are, of course, flush. Half-bed A is often made leaning forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by an overlay C. Then small boxes D open. Lovers of "strawberries and cream" (erotomaniacs / nymphomaniacs, a surprisingly monotonous and primitive-minded public) consider them reliable hidden caches and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: to transform a sofa into a bed, some extra free space is required behind the back. What does not happen with a small bedroom, and garbage accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console scheme are deprived of this vice, now for some reason they are completely undeservedly relegated to the background.

How a cantilever sofa bed is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional broadening of the console and an increase in the height of the back, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal twin bed). The excess width of the seat in the assembled form in this case is compensated by the pillows, which, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the hozblok), they are stored in a box. Some inclination of the back is obtained due to the piano loop, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood pad under the bottom wing of the hinge.

The main materials are 50x30 bars and 4-6 mm plywood. On the basis of the armrests - cohesive waste construction timber. The frame of the console is the same design as for the drawer. Connections - through spikes or met. corners, anyway. The height of the pillows is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, therefore, for use in normal conditions, it is desirable to increase the height of the console, and put the box on its legs.

About eurobooks

The concept of the euro is now as soon as not exaggerated. Moldovans, for example (they have experience of communicating with local migrant workers), dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk euros (totally, to death, to a green snake, blue devils and pink elephants), euros go to the toilet for the most part (no constipation or diarrhea). And the usual folding sofa bed is now often on sale for a reason, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but the click-clack-type eurobook sofa (see fig.), This is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To get a double bed, the armrests and backrest sides also recline. How to call them is not clear. It doesn't look like headrests. Sidebars, right? When unfolded, triangular gaps are formed in the heads / legs, which are blocked by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to expand the click-clack into a bed, at least 0.7 m of free space is needed along its contour. Where to get it? Unless in a studio apartment, the inhabitant of which is embarrassed to show that he is also sleeping here. However, such a state of mind is typical for the current, and not only the current, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a click-clack sofa-book is well.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill-cut? Well, let's get started. Just do not forget that what is fitted must be fitted before the general assembly. How to fit, we will discuss after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, the manufacture of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and box

Professionally handicraft, if I may say so, the supporting frame is assembled on deaf spikes with wedging and gluing. They give a completely hidden connection and furniture lives on such for centuries, but in order to make them, you need a hand-held wood router, skills in working with it or virtuoso possession of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inset legs, pos. 1 in fig. So it is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Cross section of beams from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 with glue.

The box is best assembled on the bosses of a triangular section from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened with box boards (oak / beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0) x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with gluing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you are not too lazy and assemble the box on the dowels before installing the bosses, a pair per joint.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the stapler's staples do not fit well into it, many bend and tear the skin; wallpaper nails - too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile, delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet, it can simply fail, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to drag the sofa, the bottom of the chipboard / fiberboard will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material is picked up so that you can’t attach a new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if a box is needed without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood the width of the length of the sofa are not produced. Pieces need to be connected so that the joint is kept on weight under the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are trimmings that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped hardwood plank, at the top at pos. 3. You can make a “cut” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its inner width). Fasten the gusset from the inside to the tsargs (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-beam of 50-70 mm planks with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less than plywood. It will give the beam rigidity, and without it, sheets assembled end-to-end, under workloads, will begin to delaminate each other mutually. Everything is assembled on small nails, fastened in a box like a gusset.

They connect the box to the frame (recall - after sheathing, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough not to crawl to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle for short and 2-3 evenly along the length for long sides.

Note: if the box is without bulkheads, the height of the back should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back side of the box will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (pos. 1 in the figure) is the side member A from a solid board (120-150) x40 mm. Most often, for the sake of simplifying the work, they make it a composite of sections, but it will be stronger in one piece. This is cut flush into vertical racks and placed first on dowels. It is also desirable to assemble the entire frame first on the dowels, and then fasten the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. Bosses in this case can simply be timber trimmings, tk. The interior volume of the back is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the base frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 - the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of bottom slab made of oak, etc. - from 40 mm. Together with the spar and rectangular parts of the uprights, it makes up the lower back belt. This is a very responsible node, because. the normal operating load of reclining people tends to tear it off the lower support.

The normal number of racks for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pcs. evenly in length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. captures the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the most extreme - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the back is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm or more. His "responsibility" is necessary when they stand on the back in order to reach something upstairs or when they drag the sofa by the back when moving furniture. Also here, the upholstery is most likely to crawl and wrinkle, so the upper timber is planed into the same plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can be pine.

The backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. So it is necessary to give the entire module the rigidity necessary for a strong connection with the support, but it is not necessary to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare pos. 2 and 3. The last one is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously degrades the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this back to the support? Self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards? How long will this sofa last until the back comes off?

Support connection

Assembling the backrest with a support is just the case when metal fasteners in furniture are needed. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the details of the back with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the box / frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads in the box / frame), 3 of those and those per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are also spring nuts under the nuts, it will not be possible to tighten them later!

Corners, on the other hand, need 2 for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bheaviest loads (to the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally below. Better 2, in case the sofa will be dragged behind the back. For attachment to the spar, it is better to use 60x40 unequal corners with holes in a narrow shelf arranged in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, DSV from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely fitted. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to put the upholstery folds into the junction of the backrest and the support, and it will not work to fit it after installing the armrests.

armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or frame, like a backrest. They are also fully completed prior to installation. The loads on them are less, therefore they are fixed from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in an envelope or a snake to the box, and to the support 4-6 pcs. in a row.

Armrests of complex shape are most often made framed. In fact, technologically they are not so complicated, pos. And in fig. The decor on the inside reaches the lower edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional lathing of laths approximately 30x40 and inserts from boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The crate is cut into the back racks, and the inserts are fixed with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-tree tie-in with reinforcement with self-tapping screws on glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars must be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see fig.), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, 50 mm of foam rubber disappears in this case, but there is a significant advantage when tightening: staples / nails do not scratch the top of the box, and thanks to the extra bend, the sofa lining (the most loaded one) lies more evenly and holds on tighter.

Upholstery

Upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done in different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a turn, as in Fig. on the right, the method is common, but therefore no better. According to GOST USSR, tucked-in upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching the corners of furniture fabrics is done in more than 2 ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second is for more prone to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But note that the numbers in Fig. indicative, fitting with a sketch is required!

Covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on turned inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (folds) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam, it is bent and left free during the firmware.

Next comes the tightening. If the corners are with tongues, then they level the sheathing with them, and the tongues are fixed. Then the cover is pulled with a harsh thread from the underside along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, pulling the threads, they achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is leveled immediately with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as it should be, the edges are fixed with an indent from the edge of the fabric of at least 5 cm. If the type of product allows, they are attached with a collar.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the box are upholstered, as shown in fig. The box is on 3 sides, the back remains open. So it is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press the fabric. In extreme cases, the sofa blank is placed on a pair of stools. Tightening the back just won’t work, because. it is already attached to the base. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom they are pulled on tragus, like a sofa, and for tightening from the sides, small nails will have to be temporarily driven into the support. Well, the armrests can be turned as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Separate cushions for the sofa are sewn in the same way as the blocks of a frameless chair:

1. The foam mat is sheathed with technical fabric;
2. The decorative cover is sewn inside out, the final (back bottom) seam is left unsewn;
3. 2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastening towards each other;
4. Insert the foam block into the decor, fasten the zippers.

Tight fittings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the joints between them. A smooth sofa does not harmonize with any design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with ties, see fig. 2 options are also possible here, for less and more dense fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn on the edges of the cover under the tightenings, and the tightenings themselves are made when the cover is already fixed. According to the 2nd option, front wings (sleeves-tunnels) are stitched on the workpiece under the cords and an even stretch is achieved by pulling either the cords or the tension threads of the cover alternately.

beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is decorative scars, see fig. Under them, you also need to sew backstage, but it is better to fill them with a flexible stranded electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (vertical) wooden surface of a suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or a doghouse.

The ends are stripped of insulation by 25-35 mm, twisted with a British twist (British, British, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently emerging vein of the wire does not stick into a sensitive place, they are wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

One-piece sofa cover - this is the aerobatics of wallpaper business. However, suddenly a shabby but strong sofa of mahogany or Karelian birch is found in the attic of the grandmother? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect intelligent connoisseurs. If you talk to them with knowledge of the matter, then they will take a moderate fee and put your soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in "1001 Nights", know that the basis for tightening the one-piece cover is the lines of the sofa's interface with the armrests and back. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. Cords are brought out along the bisectors of flat corners (outer) and trisectors of triple (internal) along grooves in a wooden frame and, for triple corners, through holes in it. The cords are moderately pulled, their ends are fixed and then they straighten and pull the cover.

Backstage for cords can be, depending on the design, facial or purl. The last case is the most difficult, the backstage seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: in general, the machine is the main problem when sheathing the sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check if it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than #20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

And sooner?

As you can see, making a sofa and covering it is not a field to go over. Couldn't it be somehow quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, to a new apartment? To sketch any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called - a sofa made of pallets. From building pallets - a pallet - they generally do a lot of things, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack made of pallets can be made much more convenient using the same principle as an adirondack garden chair, on the left in fig. A little more difficult of them is to build a rustic-style retractable sofa bed, in the center. And having applied (with a tool, not to a glass) stronger, you can get a sofa, about which you can’t immediately say that it is from a decommissioned container, on the right. For example, see which sofa was made, it seems, by a completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: do-it-yourself pallet sofa

It happens the same ... with sofas ...

Since we are talking about containers, then finally - a funny sofa. Comments are not required, what is in Fig. speaks for itself. And it is standing somewhere, sitting on it, lying ...

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