In principle, the answer to this question is obvious. Log caulking is needed to eliminate inter-log gaps and gaps by sealing them with various kinds of insulation.
This process is performed multiple times:
Directly when laying a log on a log when erecting a structure, during a summer cottage construction with your own hands.
12 months after the installation of the log house.
Not less than four years from the previous caulking.
Due to the fact that houses from a log house tend to shrink (albeit not always significant) throughout their life, when cracks appear, the log house needs to be caulked.
2. Methods for caulking a log house.
Also, do not forget that it is necessary to hammer in the insulation deliberately, since you can greatly raise the log house in height. And yet, the walls are caulked on both sides. Or you can get skewed again. If you are using moss, it should be moist and not crumble into dust.
Fig. 3 Caulk of a log house with tow
In the case of tow and moss:
1. The material is twisted into a bundle.
2. It is pushed as far as possible into the crevices between the logs.
3. Caulk is placed on the resulting tourniquet.
4. And slowly hammered with a hammer or mallet.
This is the so-called "stretching" method, which is used when the gaps are not very large. Otherwise, the tourniquet does not stretch along its entire length, but is formed into loops and then clogged. Here, much more insulation is required for the same area. This method is called "to set".
Fig. 4 Caulking a log house with jute or linen
At caulking linen or jute:
1. The upper part of the insulation is fixed.
2. The lower part is folded up from top to bottom.
3. Neatly hammered into the cracks.
Fig. 5 Log caulking in the corners
Both methods are used here, depending on the size of the gap.
Fig. 6 Caulking the log house with sealant
In case of caulking a log house with a special sealant:
1. First, insert the sealing cord.
2. The sealant is squeezed out into the cracks with a special gun.
4. What to do after caulking a log house.
When the process caulking finished with your own hands, in any case, you will cover it with some means, of which there are now a huge number. So, in order for the birds not to pull the insulation out of the cracks, and they love to use it as a building material for their nests, we recommend:
Or all the joints can be covered with a jute rope, which will give an even more aesthetic look to your home.
Or, when painting, additionally walk several times with a brush along the seams so that the outer part of the insulation hardens.
In our opinion, the first method is more interesting. Of course, it is more expensive, but this is done only once and, again, it looks very nice. The second method is less reliable and will require periodic touch-up.
In general, as you understood log caulking you can completely do it yourself. Everything is quite simple if you know some of the nuances that we have already talked about. But in general, the process is quite dreary.
The caulking of the log house ensures reliable insulation of the house for the entire period of its operation. This operation is no less important than the construction of a log house, if you treat it formally, you can get a cold, uncomfortable and ventilated house.
Unlike brick and concrete, wood is a special building material, wood is sensitive to the conditions in which it is found. To properly dig a wooden house means to create normal conditions for construction timber, and to ensure durability of the structure. In addition to solving the problems of insulation, caulk protects wood from excess moisture and dampness, decay, damage by microorganisms and insects.
Wooden houses are traditionally caulked with natural material; one of the most popular is insulation made from jute plant fibers. In wooden housing construction, insulation from this, exotic for Europe and America, plants confidently displace other materials, jute is widely used by Canadian and Scandinavian builders.
The reason for the popularity of jute fibers was the low price and good performance; in the Russian market, jute competes with traditional Russian flax. When a question arises: how to caulk a house from a bar, more and more preference is given. With the help of jute, cottages, economy class residential buildings, baths and outbuildings are insulated.
In the countries of South Asia, three "crops" of jute per year are obtained from one plot with a yield of about 2 tons per hectare, Asian producers are able to fully satisfy the needs of the world market for this product, the advantages of jute material include:
- Environmentally friendly, fibers do not split and do not form dispersed dust,
- The pulp is homogeneous, does not cake,
- Jute tape is compressed up to 1-2 mm without breaking the geometry,
- Jute insulation is hygroscopic, protects the frame from excess moisture,
- Jute can be caulked at home from logs, cant-carriage, profiled and edged beams.
As a disadvantage, it is noted: wet jute mass can create a favorable environment for microorganisms and insects. To eliminate this drawback, manufacturers use preservative and antiseptic impregnations, this should be taken into account when buying material.
Depending on the density, the jute insulation is divided into tow tape, batting and felt. The material is characterized by rigidity and elasticity, strives to maintain its original shape, which requires attention and certain skills when using it.
How to caulk a log house with jute correctly
The house is caulked in two stages: during the erection of a log house and after its shrinkage, the first operation is called primary caulking, the second - finishing. The primary caulking is done in two steps: a jute tape is laid between the crowns during the erection of a log house, after the walls have been erected, the seams are cleaned. When laying gaps between logs or beams with jute tape, you must adhere to the following rules:
- The surfaces of the crown in front of the caulking are cleaned of adhering dirt, shavings and sawdust, the jute tape is rolled out on one side of the wall, and fixed with a construction stapler every meter. When laying in parts, the edges are joined end-to-end,
- The tape is cut along the side edge of the timber, in a log cabin - along the line of the laying groove,
- The pins are driven through the jute tape through and through, an incision is made crosswise at the puncture site,
- The operations are repeated on the next crown.
The primary finishing caulking is started after the walls have been laid and the roof is installed, caulking begins with the lower crown. The material is driven into the inter-crown joints to a state of elasticity using a special tool, after completion of work on the first crown, they switch to the second. The operation is laborious, requires diligence and considerable effort. At the prices of builders, the cost of this work is up to 100 rubles per square meter.
After the completion of work on the outside, the operation is repeated from the inside of the house, the technology of insulating a house from a bar outside and from the inside does not differ. The time spent on caulking an 8x8 one-story house can be 5-7 days.
It is important. If you caulk each wall separately, you may encounter the following trouble: each processed seam increases the inter-crown distance by 3-4 mm, a fully processed wall of a house made of a 200x200 bar with a height of 16 crowns will increase by 5-7 cm, which can lead to distortions in corner joints.
Caulking methods
When caulking clean, jute-batting is driven into the cracks, the operation is performed in two ways:
- "Stretching" - a twist-pigtail of jute-batting with a diameter of 20-25 mm is driven into the slot, in this way seams with large gaps are caulked,
- "In a set" - the slots are caulked with tape insulation 5-7 mm wide, the edges of the tape are alternately hammered into the slot, then the middle part is recessed.
The masters recommend: between the crowns, lay the jute tape with an overlap of up to 60-70 mm, wrap the free edge, tap into the gap and caulk it “into a set”. In difficult cases, the insulation is hammered into a stretch, the seam is cleaned "into a set".
After the house has been exposed to shrinkage, the previously laid layer of insulation is deformed, the gaps between the joints open, at this stage of the caulking of the log house, the work must actually be done anew. In the process of shrinkage, deep longitudinal cracks-sinuses will be delighted in the body of the bar, such cracks are caulked with linseed tow and sealed with a sealant; for individual cracks, thermal insulation with linen material is more effective.
How to caulk the corners of a log house with jute
When caulking a log house, special attention is paid to the corners, it largely depends on whether the house will be warm or not. The easiest way is to work with corners,. In this case, the flash is part of a log or a bar, the jute tape is laid on a common surface, as a result, each seam of the corner lock receives its own layer of insulation.
When cutting into a paw, the elements of the lock are caulked in different ways, in general, the principle is observed: each joint must be caulked.
Finishing caulking is performed in order, simultaneously with the crowns.
How to choose a jute tape
Jute insulation is selected according to density, thickness and width. Between the crowns, a jute tape of increased density is laid, with shrinkage, a low-density insulation cakes more, the width is chosen according to the size of the bar, for a rounded log - according to the size of the laying groove. Masters recommend:
- Lay the edged beam with jute tape 20-25 mm thick, under oppression its thickness will be no more than 4 mm;
- For dry planed timber, use a tape 10-12 mm thick, which shrinks to 2 mm.
Mezhventsovye seams are caulked with a material of lower density; jute-batting with a density of 500-600 grams per square meter is used to fill the cracks.
Caulking tools
The set of tools includes:
- A type-setting caulker with a blunt blade for working "in a set", it is better to have a tool of two types: with a 10-centimeter blade for caulking the crowns and a 2-centimeter blade for crevices;
- Road worker for laying twists "in stretching", has a wide blade thickened towards the bottom. A semicircular notch is made along the entire length of the blade;
- Split caulk with wedge-shaped blade, hammered into slots to widen them.
The tool is made of hardwood or soft metal and has a handle that is comfortable to work with. A mallet is used as a percussion instrument - a hammer with a wooden or rubber striker.
Caulking jute rope
- The walls of a house made of edged beams do not always have an attractive appearance, it is almost impossible to lay insulation between the crowns without irregularities, therefore it will not be possible to dig a blockhouse "along a string". You can decorate the facade with the help of a jute rope, which is applied over a layer of mezhventsovy insulation, the rope is fastened with clapboard nails.
- After finishing caulking, it is advisable to treat the mezhventsovye cracks with an antiseptic; the domestic drug "Neomid" is an effective remedy. The tool provides long-term protection of insulation made of natural material from decay, fungus and insects. Has a liquid consistency, applied with a brush.
- If the log house is subjected to grinding after shrinkage, finishing caulking is carried out last - after finishing the grinding of the walls.
Conclusion
Despite the mass production of synthetic materials, houses continue to be caulked with natural fibers, which have excellent thermal insulation properties. Mezhventsovy heaters made of flax and jute have specific advantages and disadvantages, all the best qualities are combined in the increasingly popular combined material "flax-jute".
What material to caulk a country house or a bathhouse, each developer decides independently, depending on the design of the house, the local climate and other conditions.
What is caulk? In fact, this is the process of compacting a log house with fibrous materials - moss, tow and others; at the same time, a heat-insulating material can be used as a mezhventsovy insulation - flax-jute fiber, polyurethane foam, for example. But it is not so easy to caulk correctly - you will learn about all the intricacies and features of this process from this article. So, how to caulk a log house - with moss, tow, tape and sealants.
Correct work technology
As soon as the blockhouse is laid, it is still impossible to caulk it - after all, there is shrinkage ahead. You can understand, of course, the desire of those building the bath to make money, why they propose to bury everything right there, but this should be done only after at least six months.
So, as soon as the blockhouse has shrunk, you can begin to caulk it - from the bottom up, from the very bottom crown. This should be done like this: one seam is caulked, strictly along the perimeter of the entire log house - outside, then inside. It is impossible to caulk each wall separately - otherwise the frame will warp over time. The same applies to the separate caulking of the outer and inner sides - because of this, a dangerous vertical deflection of the walls can easily occur.
Caulking is a thorough and heavy business. At the same time, the master is obliged to constantly monitor the log house so that there are no distortions of the walls. And it's bad if, after caulking, the whole blockhouse has risen to a whole crown - this will invariably lead to the falling of the logs from the dowels or locks, and therefore it is better not to allow this.
What material should you give preference to?
So, here are the most common materials for caulking a log bath from a log house:
Moss - like the good old days
Moss is an environmentally friendly material that has medicinal properties. It resists temperature extremes and drying well, absorbs moisture, but does not rot. And most importantly, it has antimicrobial and tonic properties, and at the same time it serves for a long time.
This caulking material has been used since ancient times. Today it cannot be called the best, but many bathhouse owners use only it during construction.
So, when laying, you can only use highly moistened moss - then after the shrinkage of the log house, it will turn into a homogeneous dense mass that will fill all cavities and cracks. Therefore, you won't have to caulk the bath anymore. However, experienced builders advise against attaching special importance to the historical experience of its use - such a finish is still quite expensive.
Oakum - not everything is so smooth
Oak caulking is the most difficult. When the log shrinks, it will gradually gain moisture and eventually rot, turning into dust. And then you will have to clean this insulation, re-caulk everything and tightly fill the empty cavities - and this will take a lot of time and effort.
Sealants - modern technologies
Sealants for a log bath are much more expensive than tow, but they also have their undeniable advantages. Sealants as caulking means are suitable if the log house is cylindrical, or well cut from an ordinary log, and the groove in it is semicircular. And if there is jute linen in it between the logs. In this case, you can really get by with one sealant. But, if the blockhouse was made using a chainsaw, and the groove in it is triangular, here it is already necessary to fill the void, i.e. caulk for real.
If you use a sealant with tow, then everything should happen according to the following scheme: the bath is caulked with tow twice, and after its complete shrinkage, the seams are sealed. And in order to save sealant, it is advisable to lay a cord from insulation in the grooves.
Moreover, for seams of different widths - different types of sealant. But the seams are light and neat. And there is no longer any risk of subsequent caulking.
Caulking with tape insulation
One of the easiest caulking methods is tape caulking. It does not need to be cut into strips, which makes the whole process much easier. And you need to do it like this:
- Step 1. First, you need to go to one of the ends of the log house, put the end of the tape on the ground, and, while unwinding it, gradually move away to the other end. You do not need to cut the tape - it is only important that it does not twist and go in a strip. And most importantly - the tape should not be pulled, it should go slightly relaxed.
- Step 2. Returning to the beginning of the tape, you need to lift it at the end and start sticking it between the rims right from the end - the tool that was selected depending on the available gaps. As soon as it has already been passed to the end, you need to leave a margin of 10-20 cm - and only then the tape can be cut, and only with well-sharpened scissors.
- Step 3. At this stage, you can already caulk the tape. But only a little - otherwise it will go in folds. Moreover, it is necessary to caulk it not in one stage, but in several - until the tape disappears in the logs all, and the stock that was left initially also disappears. As for the process itself, the tape should be pushed as if diagonally.
- Step 4. Now you need to repeat everything - between the same crowns. Oddly enough, two or three ribbons will still easily enter there, depending on their density. Those. the caulking of the insulation itself takes at least four times than it was originally used when laying it - and this is only when caulking from the outside, while according to all the rules, the same must be done inside.
So, if the padding of the insulation has become dense, like wood, the caulking has gone well. By the way, the masters advise taking at least 10 mm jute - and the thicker it is, the better.
But today a Chinese instrument is considered a quite worthy alternative, which is not expensive and is quite acceptable in quality.
By the way, if you use a solid tool for caulking, then chips and dents cannot be avoided - after all, it will slide off. Soft caulk is more difficult to use, but you can make it right on the spot, with your own hands. Wooden caulkers with curved edges are also being made today, for which it is quite easy to penetrate the depth of the seam, but to use them you need skill.
In general, everything is within the power of a Russian person!
It is well known to everyone that the grooves formed between the logs of a log house should be caulked. The essence of such work is to seal the gaps remaining between the logs and in the corners of the log house with moss, tow or any other sealing material. The instructions on how to caulk a log house correctly indicate that the seal should protrude 3-4 mm from the grooves on both sides of the wall, which will protect the future house from blowing and will reduce heat loss during the frosty period by 5-6%.
The process of caulking (caulking) a log house is as follows:
- An evenly distributed fibrous material should be applied across the gap and, using a special device (the so-called "caulk"), hammer it into the existing grooves with strong blows. In order for the walls to keep warm better, they need to be caulked both from the inside and from the outside of the log house.
- When organizing these works, it should be borne in mind that uneven caulking of the walls can cause a distortion of the frame. That is why caulking work is carried out immediately along the entire perimeter of the felled structure; in this case, the crowns are processed sequentially, starting from the lowest one.
- They proceed to caulking the inner surfaces of the walls immediately after finishing the processing of the outer walls.
In construction, two methods of insulating log cabins are used, which are called caulking in a stretch and caulking in a set.
Stretching caulking
It is recommended to use this method for caulking the grooves and cracks of a small size available in the log house. When sealing the gap, a strand of tow is applied to it and pressed inward with the help of a sealing blade (caulk) until the entire space in the groove is filled with material. After that, the top layer of tow is carefully compacted by means of a special type-setting "caulking". Then a dense roller is twisted from the tow, which is placed in the groove between the crowns so that it adheres to the fibers protruding from the groove and is driven in with force.
The roller must be grasped by adjacent strands hanging from the grooves, because otherwise, it may simply fall out of the groove.
This method of insulating a log house is usually used when it is necessary to seal large gaps and wide grooves. When it is realized, small strands are prepared from hemp or tow, which are then collected into a ball to form (set) a loop, which is hammered into the grooves as a seal. It is quite natural that the thickness of the loop to be dialed depends on the dimensions of the existing groove. The resulting layer of tow is compacted first along the upper cut of the gap, and only then along the bottom. All these works are carried out with the use of a special caulking machine - "road builder".
Required tools
It has already been noted that log houses are caulked with the help of special tools, the so-called caulkers, made of metal. The main tool for compaction work is the so-called type-setting "caulk", which is a flat blade with a blade about 100 mm wide and about 5-6 mm thick. In addition to it, when carrying out work of this class, the following tool can be used:
- curve "caulking" with a blade width of about 50-60 mm and a thickness of the working part of the order of 5 mm (used for caulking the corners of a log house);
- cauliflower - "road builder" with a blade up to 170 mm wide and about 8-15 mm thick with a groove along the length of the blade up to 10 mm deep (used to form rolls from twisted strands of tow). There are three types of "road", which are used to work with wide, medium and narrow seams;
- split wedge up to 30-35 mm wide; used to break (cut) too narrow grooves, making it easier to drive tow into them.
The blade of the tool used must be smooth and slightly dull, otherwise it will simply chop off the sealing material. Any hammer of suitable weight can be used to drive the tow with metal caulkers.
Additional help in solving the question "how to caulk a log house" will be provided by the following tips:
- If you use moss as a sealant, then you must first moisten it in a special solution prepared from 200 grams of soap and 500 grams of oil, dissolved in one bucket of water. It is advisable to soak tow before use in any potent disinfectant, which will protect it from pests.
- If the roller, twisted from fibers, is not large enough and dense, it is necessary to add strands to it from the stock of insulation material. The spare strand catches on the ends of the tow hanging from the wall and gets hammered between the logs.
- When driving the insulation into the slots, the crowns can be slightly raised. At the same time, the insulation designed in the form of a roller is hammered into the gap with the help of a mallet hammer.
Re-caulking should be carried out 2 years after the log house was made, after the latter shrinks and cracks form again between the logs. It is usually performed in a "set" method.
Video
We invite you to watch the process of caulking a log house in the video.
The final stage in the construction of the walls of wooden houses is caulking. This process is necessary to prevent the penetration of moisture between the elements of the log house, since the ingress of moisture leads to rotting of the logs.
After building a house, caulking is the final stage. It is necessary to prevent moisture from entering between the logs and acts as a heater.
Before caulking a house from a log, you need to decide on the material with which the insulation is made. Today's manufacturer offers new materials - jute and linen. They replaced the old ones such as moss and tow.
Caulking is performed one year after the construction of the log house, regardless of whether the insulation was laid during felling. This time is necessary for the shrinkage of the wooden structure of the house, so that the elements of the bar or log during the shrinkage fall into place and take shape. After another year, it is necessary to re-caulk, since with complete shrinkage, additional cracks may form, which should also be caulked. In carrying out this work, they pursue the following goals:
- to achieve the tightness of the log house;
- provide good thermal insulation;
- prevent wood from rotting;
- protect the material from condensation.
No matter what wood material the house is built from, caulking is done according to the same principle. The main thing is to tightly hammer the material between the crowns. In some places, where the wood has dried up, too large gaps are formed, in this case they are subjected to caulking with jute or hemp ropes.
Materials for caulking at home
When selecting material, the following requirements must be taken into account:
When choosing a material for caulking a log house, it is necessary to be guided by the fact that the material is non-toxic, does not have unpleasant odors and has a low thermal conductivity.
- it must have low thermal conductivity;
- must not have harmful substances that can harm health;
- exclude the environment for the development of mold and fungal formations, the reproduction of insects;
- be resistant to natural factors, temperature extremes and high humidity;
- should not contain unpleasant odors;
- not to lose their heat-shielding and sealing qualities for many years.
Moss. It is an environmentally friendly natural material that has the ability to absorb moisture and release it. When using moss, the wood is not subject to decay, as it has antibacterial properties. Thanks to its natural origin, the room is saturated with a healthy, welcoming atmosphere. But when working with moss, some difficulties arise due to the fact that it is difficult to fit. To simplify the work, it is combined with tow. And even in spite of its minor flaws, this material is the best option.
Tow. It is also a natural material. But, unlike moss, it is a secondary product after processing flax and hemp. It has the same positive qualities as moss.
Linen is made from flax fiber and is absolutely safe and environmentally friendly.
Flax It is made from pure flaxseed fiber. It is not harmful to health, as it is environmentally friendly. Provides excellent thermal insulation. It also has the inherent quality of absorbing water at high humidity, and at low humidity, giving it away. Thanks to these properties, the wood does not lend itself to rotting and the formation of mold and mildew. The material is in the form of a tape, which is available in various thicknesses. It is laid using the stretching method.
Jute fiber. This is the result of processing plants from the mallow family that grow in Central Asia, India and China. It is used in the manufacture of ropes and sacks. It is also in great demand for caulking houses made of wooden beams and logs. In terms of its insulating properties, it is similar to tow, but it is laid in a set.
Jute. For its manufacture, jute fiber is used; it is produced in rolls of different thicknesses. It is mainly used in buildings where increased thermal insulation is required. It has excellent thermal insulation properties and is resistant to humid environments. The non-absorbent property allows stacking directly on damp logs.
Methods and features of caulking
There are two ways:
- stretching;
- into the set.
Diagram of caulking methods.
With the caulking method, strands are twisted from the material, which are subsequently wound into a ball for convenience when working. From the threads obtained, loops are knitted and hammered into the resulting gaps and slots. The number of loops depends on the size of the gap. The caulking material is first driven into the upper edges, and then the lower ones. To give the seam a neat look, the tow is trimmed with the flattened end of a small nailer.
Much attention must be paid to the corners, as they are caulked with great care. When closing up the walls, the ends of the tow should be released at corners of 10-15 cm.
If the caulk is placed in a finished house, the height of the log house is increased to 15 cm, in this regard, in order not to damage the chimney, it must be freed from caulking solutions during the work.
But the laying of the material by the method in the set is mainly used for the second caulking. This method has found its application in sealing large gaps and crevices. For work, a fiber roller is used, which was prepared in advance. Since the seams are the same width, the thickness of the bead must be the same. However, if there are more gaps in some places, then the roller needs to be rolled several times to make it look like a loop. This method got its name "in a set" because of the gain in thickness by twisting the cord.
The material is clogged with a special caulk and a wooden mallet.
Caulking a house from a log
Every year it is necessary to inspect the house for cracks and gaps. If found, they must be caulked immediately.
The device for caulking houses from a log differs little from the insulation of other log cabins, if you do not take into account the fact that the gaps in log cabins are much smaller and experience is needed during work so as not to overheat the insulation. But when caulking with jute, special attention should be paid to the joints between the logs, since they are the weakest point.
When performing poor-quality work in the cold season, the wind will blow in small, at first glance, crevices and corner joints, which helps to lower the temperature in the house. Since it is almost impossible to identify these places, you will have to redo the caulking, which will lead to an overspending of material and funds.
Therefore, it is necessary to caulk houses from logs with special care. If even the smallest gaps and cracks are found, they must be clogged with material as tightly and efficiently as possible, caulking must be done both outside and inside the house.
For felling from logs, it would be most advisable to use the roller method, since due to the rigidity of the roller, its quality and efficiency are significantly increased.