How a cinder block is laid. Master class on proper cinder block laying

Reliable and beautiful cinder block laying consists of approximately 10% theory and 90% practice, but despite this ratio, without 10% theory it is difficult to master practical skills and begin to apply them on a construction site.

In the image: illustration of the three basic rules for laying blocks (bricks), 1 - the direction of the load force on the wall, 2 - the direction of the destructive forces when laying wedge-shaped stones, 3 - the distribution of the load over the surface of the wall.

1. Cinder block and any other stone, both natural and artificial, tolerate compression well and do not easily break or bend. This is where the first rule of reliable masonry arises - the overlying stone must rest with its entire surface on the underlying masonry. To achieve this, when laying cinder blocks, apply the solution to the entire surface of the underlying block, and not just along the edges.

2. The side edges of the stones should be located only at right angles to the horizon. If this rule is not followed, the stones begin to act as wedges, which, under load, push the masonry apart, destroying it.

3. Each next row of blocks should be shifted relative to the bottom one by a quarter or half of the block, that is, the vertical seams of adjacent rows should not be allowed to coincide. If the seams do not match (correct masonry), then the vertical load spreads across the entire wall, and if the seams match (wrong masonry), then the load spreads along the column, sharply increasing the likelihood of destruction of part of the wall.

And a few tips: when working in hot or windy weather, it is advisable to moisten the blocks, this increases the adhesion between the solution and the cinder block; if a break is expected during the laying process, then the mortar should not be spread on the top row; Every 3 - 4 rows it is necessary to check the horizontality and verticality of the rows.

In the image: cinder block elements: 1 - upper bed, 2 - large side edge - spoon, 3 - small side edge - poke.

To make it easier to understand what kind of cinder block masonry can be used when building a wall, you need to remember that the block has 6 faces: 2 opposite ones on which the block is laid - the upper and lower beds; large side faces - spoons; small side edges are pokes. The masonry is carried out in horizontal rows and cinder blocks are laid on beds.

The height of each horizontal row is formed from the height of the stone and the thickness of the horizontal mortar joint, which is usually 10 - 12 mm.

In the image: 1 - masonry in half a cinder block, 2 - masonry in a cinder block, 3 - one and a half cinder blocks.

The width of the masonry, which ultimately is the thickness of the wall, should be a multiple of 1/2 of the cinder block.

Factors affecting the reliability of a wall made of cinder block or any other stone

The strength of the masonry is determined by the quality of the cinder block and the properties of the solution. The maximum strength of masonry made from blocks is equal to 40 - 50% of the tensile strength of the blocks themselves. This situation is explained as follows: during laying, the mortar is laid on the blocks in an uneven layer, microscopic kinks and voids appear, this leads to the formation of different pressures on the cinder block in different parts of the wall, bending stress arises in the block, and just such a load cinder block does not hold up well.

In the image: stages of destruction of masonry, 1 - appearance of cracks, 2 - formation of individual columns, 3 - complete destruction of the wall.

If a wall experiences excessive load, it first becomes covered with vertical cracks, which are most often located along vertical seams. Over time, the cracks expand and the monolithic wall turns into a set of columns that can move out of the plane of the wall and eventually the masonry collapses.

The reliability of the masonry largely depends on the quality of the mortar; the plasticity of the mortar is especially important. The plastic solution lies evenly on the stone, as a result, the bending stress decreases and the reliability of the wall increases.

When mixing the solution, strictly observe the proportions, taking into account the quality of sand and cement, do not prepare for future use.

The strength of the masonry also depends on the thickness of the seam; the thicker the layer of mortar, the harder it is to evenly place it on the cinder block and the likelihood of fracture stress increases. For this reason, each type of masonry is made with a certain thickness of the seam (for a cinder block this is approximately 1 cm), and it is not possible to increase this thickness without the risk of reducing the strength of the structure.

Cinder Block Laying Tools

In the image: tools necessary for laying a stone wall, 1 - trowel (trowel), 2 - mortar shovel, 3 - jointing for convex and concave seams, 4 - pick hammer, 5 - plumb line, 6 - square, 7 - building level, 8 - tape measure , 9 - level, 10 - folding meter, 11 - duralumin rule, 12 - order.

1. A trowel is a steel shovel with a wooden handle, with the help of which the mortar is leveled, the seams are filled, and excess mortar is trimmed.

2. The mortar shovel is designed to mix the mortar without allowing it to separate, apply it to the wall and spread it.

3. Joints with which the seams can be given a convex, concave, triangular, rectangular recessed shape.

4. A pick hammer is used when chopping and hewing bricks or blocks.

5. A plumb line, with its help the mason controls the verticality of the wall, piers, corners, and so on. This tool, depending on whether the verticality of the masonry is checked within one or several floors, has a different weight. For the first case it is 200 - 400 g, for the second 600 - 1000 g.

6. The square is used to check angles.

7. Construction level, which is designed to control the horizontal and vertical plane. Available in lengths of 300, 500 and 700 mm. Structurally, it consists of an aluminum case with two glass ampoules filled with non-freezing liquid, in which an air bubble remains. The principle of operation of the device is simple: place it on the surface of the wall and look at the position of the bubble. If it measures in the middle between the divisions of the ampoule, then the surface is horizontal; if it is shifted in any direction, then there is a deviation.

8. Tape measures and folding meter are designed for measuring short distances.

9. Rules-level - this tool is made from trimmed wooden (section 30 × 80 mm, length 1.5 - 2 meters) or duralumin slats with a special profile. With its help, the front surface of the laid wall is controlled.

10. Ordering - is a wooden strip (section 50 × 50 or 70 × 50, length 1.8 - 2 meters) with divisions every 77 mm, which is equal to the thickness of one row with a solution (65 mm + 12 mm). The order can also be made from a metal corner, on the edges of which divisions with a depth of 3 mm and a pitch of 77 mm are cut.

Sequence of work when constructing cinder block walls

In the image: 1 - laying the outer spoon verst, 2 - inner spoon verst, 3 - butting row.

One of the first questions that arises before starting to build walls is how thick should they be? The most correct answer to this question is found in the design documentation, but many people build houses without designs, in which case you can rely on these numbers. When constructing a 1-storey building and at an air temperature in winter of 20 C, the wall thickness is 350 - 400 mm; temperature - 30 C thickness 450 - 500 mm; temperature - 40 C thickness 550 - 650 mm.

The cinder block laying is carried out by a master and an assistant. The latter stands in front and, moving along the course of the masonry, delivers the blocks onto the wall, laying them out in steps equal to the length of the block being laid and at a distance from the wall equal to two lengths of the stone. With this arrangement, it will be convenient for the master to spread the mortar and lay the blocks on the wall. The assistant’s responsibilities also include supplying the solution.

Cinder block is a “fast” building material that speeds up the work of a mason.

The master lays the mortar with a shovel on the upper surface of the wall, the width of the strip is several centimeters narrower than the width of the block. The cinder block is laid on fresh mortar and pressed close to the laid block, after which it is pushed down with both hands and, if necessary, with a hammer. The protruding mortar is cut off with a trowel and the vertical seams are filled. If the cinder block does not have a recess on the bonded surface, then a solution must be applied to this face before laying the block on the wall.

Additional articles with useful information

Whether or not to use cinder block as the main building material when building a house can be decided only after taking into account the positive and negative aspects of this artificial stone.

Frame walls can help out many developers, especially if you take into account their features during construction and operation, since they can be built without special equipment and are much cheaper.

The characteristics of cinder block are not particularly impressive when compared with more modern building materials.

But the cost and speed of building walls with its help have become the reason for the frequent use of cinder block elements in the construction of private houses.

But the purpose of this article is not to compare the materials used in the construction process, but to tell how to lay a cinder block and what to follow when doing the work with your own hands.

Cinder block masonry: types

We should start with the fact that constructing walls from such material is a simple process. You just have to learn the basics and the work with your own hands will be done at a high level. As a rule, walls are laid from a hollow block - this reduces the weight of the house, and it is easier to lift 23 kilograms during installation than 28.

The main types of laying cinder block walls:

Half a stone;
One stone;
One and a half stones;
Two stones.

The first can be used for the construction of non-residential buildings. In other cases, you need to be guided exclusively by the design documentation, in which the optimal ratio of the thermal conductivity of the walls to their mass is selected. Insulation often helps to achieve the desired performance.

How to properly make mortar for laying cinder blocks?

How much and in what proportions to use the components of the cement mixture depends on the specific construction conditions. If difficulties arise, you can go to the store and buy a dry mixture, dilute it, and then immediately start working. But this solution leads to increased costs, so let’s give an example of how many components are used in standard situations:

1 part binder (cement);
3 parts fine-grained filler (sand);
Water (how much to pour depends on the situation, but the mixture should be viscous so that it does not “run away” during work);
Plasticizer (some believe that it should be used, others do not support this opinion, but it can really improve the quality of the connection of elements and reduce the thermal conductivity of seams).

In non-professional construction, sometimes shampoo is an alternative to plasticizer, but the feasibility of such a move is a big question

It is necessary to ensure optimal conditions for preparing the mixture and correctly calculate how much of which component to use: the solution must be homogeneous and capable of supporting the weight of the structure.

What kind of base should be used for cinder block masonry?

Foundation waterproofing

The relevance of the question to the immediate topic is relative, but laying a wall begins with the foundation, so you need to take into account some rules:

Before laying the starting row of walls, you need to lay waterproofing material.
It is permissible to begin work if the base surface is flat and has no differences.
It is worth making a base that will be 70 cm above the ground surface.

What do you need to prepare for installation?

To begin with, you should stock up on the amount of material necessary for DIY construction. And in the immediate masonry process the following will be useful:

Hammer;
Circular saw or other similar tool;
Trowel;
Plumb;
Laying template;
Level;
Cord, fishing line or any rope;
Order.

detailed instructions

Laying cinder block walls with your own hands is no more difficult than building brick structures.

The first row is the basis of the entire wall and should be laid with great care, since the evenness of all the walls of the building depends on it, and therefore the uniform distribution of the load along the base.

Algorithm for performing the work:

Place the necessary components into a concrete mixer and prepare the solution.
The solution is laid on the base (more precisely, on the waterproofing material). It is impossible to say exactly how much optimal solution to put (it also depends on the specific situation), but it should be up to 1.5 cm thick.
The fishing line is stretched, the surface of the mortar is leveled, and the laying of the starting row begins.
Before placing the next wall element in a row, the previous one is leveled. To ensure that the wall is level, the blocks are laid at the level of the stretched fishing line.
The corners of the next row consist of half a cinder block. To separate it, a file or other handy tool is useful.

It is better to start work by laying the corners, and the excess mortar that has come out under the pressure of the cinder block must be immediately removed from the cracks.
After laying each row, be sure to check it with a level and correct any unevenness.

What is a laying template and is it needed for self-construction?

If you are an experienced construction worker who is able to measure the solution level “by eye,” then using such a device is not necessary. Otherwise, they simply need to arm themselves, at least at first.

To make it, you can use ordinary boards. The size will depend solely on the dimensions of the cinder block. The main thing is that its height is 1–1.5 cm - it depends on the thickness of the seams.

What should you consider when doing your own construction?

Take advice from experienced specialists:

The more often the evenness of the installation is measured, the better the work will be done.
To mark the blocks, use multi-colored chalk - it is clearly visible.
The solution must be mixed so that the prepared amount is used immediately.
Cinder block walls are afraid of moisture, so protecting them with plaster or siding will come in handy.

Doing the work yourself is quite simple, especially if you calculate how much it costs to build one wall by specialists. Carry out the construction process correctly and the structure will please you for a long time.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials. At the same time, it has excellent technical characteristics and allows the construction of not only commercial buildings, but also full-fledged residential buildings. Installing a cinder block is not particularly difficult, so all the work can be completed without involving a construction team, which allows you to increase your professionalism and save a considerable amount.

Types of cinder block

Cinder blocks got their name thanks to the filler that was previously used in their production process: slag, ash and other products of solid fuel combustion. However, such blocks were characterized by high moisture absorption and insufficient strength. Therefore, today fine crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick, sawdust, etc. are used as filler.

All cinder blocks available on the domestic market can be divided into three types:

corpulent - high-strength building material, the weight of which is about 26-28 kg;
hollow - has low thermal conductivity and is perfect for laying walls;
semi-block - used for constructing interior partitions.

Each type has a certain voidness, the value of which determines the main characteristics of the product (strength and thermal conductivity). It is precisely the voidness that you need to focus on first when choosing blocks for (Fig. 1).

When carrying out construction work with their own hands, many are interested in the question: what should be the thickness of cinder block walls? Here everything depends on the purpose of the building being constructed and the climatic zone in which it is built. The standard dimensions of this material are as follows: width - 390 mm, height - 188 mm, thickness - 190 mm.

Laying cinder blocks, like ordinary bricks, can be done according to the following schemes:

in ½ block;
in 1 block;
1.5 blocks;
in 2 blocks.

When considering how to properly lay a cinder block, you need to know that as the thickness of the walls increases, their thermal conductivity decreases, that is, the house becomes warmer and more comfortable. At the same time, excessive thickness leads to additional financial waste and increased load on the foundation. For the construction of a one-story house, the recommended thickness of cinder block walls is 380 mm (masonry in 1 block).

Preparatory work

Before laying a cinder block with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

circular saw;
electric drill with a nozzle for mixing mortar;
building level;
plumb line;
trowel;
hammer;
container for masonry mixture;
cord;
cement, sand;
steel rods or reinforcing mesh.

High-quality masonry of any wall material begins with creating a reliable foundation. Its type depends on the condition of the soil at the dacha and the depth of groundwater. So, for heaving soils, the best option is a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

For stable soils with deep groundwater, a strip foundation is a good choice, which you can make yourself, without the use of special construction equipment and expensive equipment. Its width should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the future walls. To fill the foundation, a solution of cement, sand and crushed stone is prepared in a ratio of 1:2:4.

Strip base diagram

After the installation mixture has completely hardened, a waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete base to protect the blocks from moisture. It is recommended to use roofing felt as waterproofing.

Cinder block walls are laid using cement mortar, which can be purchased at any hardware store or made with your own hands. Ready-made dry mixtures are relatively expensive, so many choose the second option. Masonry mortar is prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. To give the mixture plasticity and increase its frost resistance, a plasticizer is added to it. The finished masonry mass should be viscous and spread slightly under the weight of the cinder block.

Laying cinder blocks with your own hands

Laying of brick, cinder block or any other building material begins from the corners of the future house. In this case, you need to be very careful, since the evenness and reliability of all walls will depend on the correct alignment of the corners. First, apply a little mortar to the corners of the foundation and level it with a trowel. Then two blocks are placed on top of it at right angles, after which another block is mounted on them, observing the ligation of the seams.

The remaining corners of the house are driven out in the same way. The masonry must be constantly checked for horizontal and vertical evenness using a building level and plumb line.

If any element does not fit into the overall picture, it is corrected by lightly tapping it with a trowel. Nails are driven into the resulting seam between the upper and lower blocks and a cord is pulled, which will serve as a guide when laying the first row. After installing the first row along the entire perimeter of the foundation, they begin laying the second row and so on.

Installation joints in the walls are cold bridges through which heat escapes from the house, so their width should be minimal. For cinder blocks, the recommended joint width is about 10-15 mm. With smaller sizes, the masonry will have low strength.

To evenly distribute the load along the entire perimeter of the walls and increase the reliability of the masonry, it is reinforced. For this purpose, metal rods are used, which are mounted in the grooves of the blocks, or reinforcing mesh. The first row of blocks must be reinforced, after which this procedure is performed every 3-4 rows.

Properly constructed cinder block walls will last for many years, reliably protecting residents from bad weather conditions and bringing warmth and comfort into the house.

Cinder blocks are one of the current building materials. They are popular due to their affordable price, ease of installation and good technical characteristics. You can build walls from it yourself without the help of professional craftsmen. But before that, you definitely need to study masonry technology and learn about its pitfalls.

Features of choosing cinder blocks and building walls

Cinder blocks are made from cement, sand, water and fillers: blast furnace slag, perlite, expanded clay chips, etc. The strength, frost resistance, and porosity of the material depend on the composition and quantity of the latter. Before purchasing, you need to check the availability of a quality certificate to exclude the presence of dangerous concentrations of toxic substances. It is risky to purchase products created in artisanal conditions, although they cost a little less than factory ones. But without professional equipment and knowledge of the correct production technology, it is impossible to create a product that meets the technical characteristics of GOST.

Algorithm for laying cinder blocks

In addition to its positive properties, cinder block has some negative features. First of all, you need to remember about its high hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) and protect it from dampness. In addition, the blocks will not be able to withstand very heavy loads with reinforced concrete floors; in this case, a monolithic reinforced belt is required. But laying them with your own hands without outside help or hired workers is quite possible.

After applying a leveling cement layer to the foundation, it must be well protected from water by using a waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt. Its ends are connected with an overlap of no less than 150 mm.

The construction of walls is done as follows:

The first step is laying the corners. The blocks in the first row are placed on a cement mortar with a plasticizing additive 10-15 mm thick. It is applied to the entire surface of the product. If it is vertical, then the upward movement of the trowel should be done without leaving the block. The level of the product is controlled using a level, and the position is controlled using a building level. The weight of a cinder block, depending on its size and structure (monolithic, hollow), ranges from 10 to 28 kg.
A cord is pulled between the corner blocks and the construction of walls begins. If the distance between them exceeds 10 m in the center of the row, you need to place an additional block and fasten the cord to it so that it does not sag.
After laying the first row, you need to wait 1-2 hours and only then begin further work. The next rows of outer corners are laid with mandatory bandaging (depth of at least 10 cm). It is also used to connect load-bearing internal walls with external ones. There is no need to fill the cavity of the product with a solution when laying cinder blocks; this will only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.
After every 3-4 rows, reinforcement must be carried out. For this purpose, iron rods and mesh are used. All stages of masonry can be done with your own hands.
In places where there will be a partition, a flexible steel anchor is inserted into the seam. One end is mounted into the load-bearing wall, and the other into the seam of the partition. They need to be fixed on every second row of the load-bearing wall.

Many people, at the stage of choosing building materials for their home, doubt which is better: foam blocks or cinder blocks? Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, they have different prices, and different technical characteristics. You need to focus on the type and purpose of the room, the requirements for it, and the design of the walls.

The inner surface of the walls must be properly waterproofed with vapor-proof plaster, insulated (with foil, expanded polystyrene), and then installed drywall, wallpaper, paint, etc. For exterior finishing, facing bricks, plaster followed by painting, and siding are suitable. The air gap must be filled with insulation: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool.

The strength of do-it-yourself masonry depends not only on compliance with its technology, but also on the technical characteristics of the cinder block and the quality of the solution. If you follow all the rules, a cinder block house will serve the owner for many years.

Laying cinder blocks: how to lay a cinder block correctly (video)

Laying cinder blocks can be done with your own hands without the help of craftsmen. Compliance with technology and proper finishing will allow you to create strong walls and retain heat in the room

How to lay cinder blocks yourself - step by step instructions

Cinder block as a building material is gaining increasing popularity. This is due to several factors. First of all, it is cheap, which can be further reduced by making the blocks yourself. The second reason for its popularity is that cinder block laying can be done with your own hands.

Cinder block is an artificial stone based on compressed cemented slag concrete. Slag, granite crushed stone, granite screenings, gravel, broken glass, sand, and dried pieces of cement are used as filler. Cinder block dimensions according to standards: 400x200x200 or 390x190x190. In the second case, 10 mm is left for the mortar joint.

There are two types of cinder block:

solid is used for laying the foundation, basement, load-bearing structures;
hollow acts as a building material that can be used to line walls and partitions.

Its properties also depend on the type of block. The higher the hollowness, the lower the thermal conductivity, which means that the heat of the rooms will be retained. However, the strength of the material decreases as a result. The masonry scheme remains virtually unchanged.

What should you consider before starting work?

If you do the masonry yourself, the cost of construction can be significantly reduced. All you need to do is select high-quality cinder blocks and learn how to lay them correctly.

1. Choosing a installation method.

The laying pattern is influenced by the cinder block used, which depends on the type of material and the nature of the future construction. You can place blocks in one, one and a half, two and half stones (spoon method). It is worth considering the fact that the thicker the wall is, the warmer the building will be.

2. Preparation of mortar for masonry.

The manufacturing technology is the same, but the proportions depend on the nature of the future building. Nowadays you can buy ready-made mixtures in stores, to which you just need to add a certain amount of water. However, this will significantly increase the cost of masonry. Therefore, the solution is usually prepared independently. The standard proportions are as follows:

The amount of water is adjusted for each specific case. The result should be a viscous, non-spreadable solution. If so, then you did everything right. At the end of cooking, it is necessary to add a plasticizer, which is used to increase frost resistance and increase density. A composition that has the following parameters is considered to be of high quality:

adhesion;
plastic;
uniformity;
frost resistance;
self-sealing;
strength;
waterproof.

The main rule is that the solution must withstand the upcoming loads of the building. If the block manufacturing technology is strictly followed, then the product will ultimately be of high quality.

3. Preparing the necessary tools.

If you don't know where to start laying cinder block, start by choosing the necessary tools. You will need:

A hand-held circular saw can be replaced with a hacksaw, since cinder blocks are quite easy to saw.
Respirator. You should not neglect safety measures and still use the specified device during the sawing process (it cannot be avoided). And the price should not be a reason to refuse a purchase.
Construction level, laser or bubble, your choice. You must be absolutely sure of the quality, so it is recommended to check it.
Hammer or mallet.
A trowel that you can make yourself, which will further reduce the cost of construction.
Plumb. Its role is performed by any weight on a fishing line or cord.
Order. This instrument is usually made of wood and is a river with a cross-section (50x50 or 70x50 mm), length - about two meters. The goal is to mark the rows of masonry, fix the marks of the top and bottom of the openings.

After the preparatory work, you can begin to lay the cinder block directly.

Step-by-step instructions for laying

1. The beginning of laying cinder blocks is pouring the foundation, the width of which should slightly exceed the width of the blocks. The surface must be perfectly flat, without flaws in the form of bulges and holes.

2. Setting the corners. For this purpose, rows are used that are attached to each corner. It is necessary to select a tool taking into account the thickness of the blocks, as well as the thickness of the two seams. A thread or cord is stretched between the row marks of each row, which indicates the level of the row.

3. Directly laying the cinder block. The most important is the first layer, so special attention is paid to this process. First, you need to spread the adhesive mixture in an even layer using a trowel, on which you want to place the cinder block. After 3 blocks have been laid, the installation must be checked by level and plumb. Then repeat this procedure as often as possible, as required by the instructions. This will avoid re-laying, which means the price for the work will be lower. The following layers are laid in a similar way with level control. It is not recommended to make the seam thickness more than 1.5 cm. The cracks are also filled with cement composition. If you are laying hollow cinder blocks, then under no circumstances should you fill the voids inside the blocks with mortar, as this will lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties.

4. Completion of the work consists of facing the wall or “joining it” (run a cut hollow pipe with an oblique cut along the cement between the blocks from the outside).

If the wall will not be covered, then you can add soot to the cement mortar. This will allow you to decorate the structure, but you need to be careful not to stain the blocks.

Other builder tips

There are little tricks that will help make your work a little easier, since laying walls with your own hands can be difficult for an inexperienced builder.

1. Specialists, as a rule, lay cinder blocks without using any additional devices. If you are doing this yourself for the first time, then you can use a template, the size of which depends on the dimensions of the blocks (you will have to make it yourself).

2. Red clay is used as a plasticizer, especially since it is affordable.

3. You also need to take care in advance of making a special platform, which will be needed so that you can lay out the top layers. A stepladder is not suitable for this purpose, because you can’t take a bucket with you, and you have to constantly move it, and it’s easy to fall.

4. It is necessary to monitor the thickness of the seam. It should be no more than 1.5 cm, otherwise heat will escape from the building to the outside.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying: step-by-step instructions, tools, tips

How to prepare high-quality mortar for laying blocks yourself? Useful tips for inexperienced builders.

Cinder block: DIY installation

Technical characteristics of cinder block

All cinder blocks available on the domestic market can be divided into three types:

corpulent - high-strength building material, the weight of which is about 26-28 kg;
hollow - has low thermal conductivity and is perfect for laying walls;
semi-block - used for constructing interior partitions.

When carrying out construction work with their own hands, many are interested in the question: what should be the thickness of cinder block walls? Here everything depends on the purpose of the building being constructed and the climatic zone in which it is built. The standard dimensions of this material are as follows: width - 390 mm, height - 188 mm, thickness - 190 mm.

Laying cinder blocks, like ordinary bricks, can be done according to the following schemes:

Preparatory work

Before laying a cinder block with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

circular saw;
electric drill with a nozzle for mixing mortar;
building level;
plumb line;
trowel;
hammer;
container for masonry mixture;
cord;
cement, sand;
steel rods or reinforcing mesh.

High-quality masonry of any wall material begins with creating a reliable foundation. Its type depends on the condition of the soil at the dacha and the depth of groundwater. So, for heaving soils, the best option is a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

Strip base diagram

Laying cinder blocks with your own hands

The remaining corners of the house are driven out in the same way. The masonry must be constantly checked for horizontal and vertical evenness using a building level and plumb line.

Properly constructed cinder block walls will last for many years, reliably protecting residents from bad weather conditions and bringing warmth and comfort into the house.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying: instructions

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials.

Master class on proper cinder block laying

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when building the walls of a garage, outbuilding or fence.

This material is no longer used for the construction of residential buildings; it has been replaced by foam and gas blocks.

The main advantages of cinder block:

the composition includes ordinary sand and cement, as well as gypsum, lime and slag;
excellent strength, exemplary resistance to moisture and mechanical stress;
lightweight and easy to use;
low cost.

The only negative is low thermal conductivity. In cold weather, a house made of cinder blocks quickly loses heat through the walls. However, the demand for this construction raw material is not falling.

This drawback helps to eliminate the huge selection of insulation materials. So, after consultation on how to lay a cinder block correctly, get down to business without any doubts.

There is no need to hire a construction team; there is nothing overly complicated about laying cinder blocks with your own hands.

First, prepare your tools:

hacksaw or circular saw;
building level;
cord or fishing line;
hammer;
water level;
trowel;
order.

Preliminary work

The foundation on which the masonry is performed should be slightly wider than the width of the cinder block (at least 4 cm).

The construction platform is made with waterproofing, since the components of the cinder block - lime and sand - do not tolerate contact with water.

The foundation, in order to prevent curvature of the future building, cannot be uneven.

Before you begin DIY work, find scaffolding to stand on. They will come in handy if the calculated height of the masonry is higher than your chest level.

Reaching the masonry in your hands with a cinder block will become a fair amount of pain, because you have to take into account how much this material weighs. It is larger and heavier than brick.

A simple stepladder will not help in this case; there is no space on it to place a bucket of solution.

The consistency of the solution is important.

The correct solution is plastic, but not spreading, thick, like sour cream.

According to the rules, the solution for laying cinder blocks is prepared from equal amounts of sand and cement and one third of red clay. The components are thoroughly mixed with the addition of water.

How much and in what proportions to mix these 4 components is described in detail in the video.

You can prepare cinder blocks with your own hands. 2 boards two meters long with cross boards are connected to each other.

The outer boards are fastened to the longitudinal ones. Using a chisel, a 14-centimeter cut is made in the longitudinal boards.

Then cells are cut out in the prepared material, which then need to be painted with oil paint. After these steps, a mixture of concrete and ash is poured into it.

Then holes are cut out in the prepared material and painted with oil paint. The cinder block must have voids to provide additional heat.

When the solution in the mold has hardened, you can tap it with a hammer and pull out the finished block. It is recommended to wait a day and only then start styling.

Corners and first row

The first blocks are laid in the corners of the building. This must be approached conscientiously and diligently: how straight the masonry is in the corners, so even it will be on the walls.

Therefore, you need to actively use the order (rectangular corner), checking each step.

An even layer of mortar is spread onto the foundation on both sides of the corner using a steel spatula (trowel), on which two cinder blocks are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. Their upper side is again covered with solution.

At this stage of masonry, the level checks the uniformity of the horizontal line, and the plumb line checks the vertical line.

If there are distortions, this can be easily corrected with a hammer, carefully tapping the blocks on the desired side. The same method must be used when laying the remaining corners.

Then a nail is driven into the joints between all the lower and upper blocks to stretch a thick fishing line over them.

Along this conditional line, they continue to lay the first row of cinder blocks, not forgetting to use the building level.

If suddenly the last element of the perimeter masonry does not fit into its place due to its larger size, then it can be reduced with an ordinary hacksaw. Cinder blocks can be sawed without problems.

You just need to wear a respirator and safety glasses when adjusting the size of the block using a saw - a lot of dust and slag grains fly during sawing.

Second and subsequent rows

Mortar is poured onto all masonry joints, removing excess with a spatula. Then lay the other rows. Cinder blocks are not laid according to the principle of brickwork, erecting one wall and then another.

It is placed along the perimeter of the building.

The new row also begins to be laid from the corner. Place a second cinder block on the block in the bottom row, and a third on top of it, covering the seams. The entire second row is placed with cinder blocks, following the example of the first.

At the same time, periodically check the correct installation in horizontal and vertical positions.

The trimmed parts should be located in the masonry as far as possible from each other, for example, in opposite corners.

The condition of the masonry of the two starting rows is very important. Therefore, there is no need to start construction in a hurry. Subsequently, the progress of construction will accelerate.

If you have practical experience behind you, then you can check the horizontals after 3-6 blocks, and the verticals after 4 completed rows.

The edges between the cinder blocks should be kept at the size of one or one and a half cm. If you make the seams very narrow, the masonry will be less reliable; large seams will lead to heat leakage from the house.

It is not recommended to apply the solution to the voids inside the blocks.

The opinion that this will add strength is erroneous. Rather, this will disrupt the thermal insulation properties of the wall and increase the consumption of solution components.

Laying technologies

Laying cinder blocks is usually done in one of two ways.

Method No. 1 is spoon, that is, half a stone. It occurs most often.

Method No. 2 - bonded, otherwise, in one stone. The technology of laying 2 or one and a half stones is possible only when constructing houses for permanent residence, where the walls are 75-80 centimeters thick.

This construction technology coincides with the brick laying method.

There is no point in covering cinder block walls with plaster; it will not stick, since the material has poor adhesion.

It is strongly recommended to decorate each wall of a cinder block building with decorative stone.

If you are planning to build a structure using cinder block, do not lose sight of the fact that cinder block may contain harmful volatile compounds.

Therefore, you can leave it in an open place or in a ventilated building for a while.

If the laying of the cinder block is carried out according to all the rules, then taking into account the special nuances, then you will build an impeccable cinder block room with your own hands.

Excess cinder block is usually left for the porch or foundation.

It is appropriate to make a porch from cinder block if there is a significant difference between the level of the yard and the house.

A cinder block foundation is placed only where the soil is dry, for a house with a light load.

Groundwater must pass below the layer of frozen soil.

You also need to consider how many floors the building will have. If there is more than one, it is better to change your mind and build a concrete base.

Don’t ignore the fact that cinder block has pores, which is why it needs to be well insulated and lined.

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when building the walls of a garage, outbuilding or fence. This material is no longer used for residential buildings.

Cinder blocks are an excellent building material that has a number of advantages, which has gained popularity among summer residents and owners of country houses. Let’s start with the fact that it’s easy to make this lightweight stone with your own hands, which I’ll tell you about, and it’s no less easy to lay cinder blocks yourself. You don’t need a team of builders, and if you want to build a garage, a country house or a more serious building, you can do it yourself. Let's get started and figure out the cinder block and what tools we need for this.

So, the list of tools:

hand-held circular saw or hacksaw (cinder block is easy to saw);
respirator (required when sawing);
building level;
water (hydraulic level);
hammer or mallet;
trowel;
plumb line (cord or fishing line);
order.

Procedure for laying cinder block

As when starting work with brickwork, we adjust the corners, trying to achieve the correct rectangle. Of course, it is assumed that your foundation is already ready and you have carried out preparatory work, including it. We place four cinder blocks at the tops of the corners, level them using a level and stretch the cord or fishing line along which the masonry will be made. Next, we apply the mortar to the foundation and lay the first rows of cinder blocks.

Important! The first and subsequent 2-3 rows of masonry are the most important, and it is recommended to check the correctness of the masonry more often with a level and plumb line in order to get even walls - redoing an already finished wall is much more difficult than checking your work on time.

There are several ways to lay cinder blocks:

half a stone (can be sawed off with a hacksaw or circular saw without any problems), or the spoon method;
tychkovy - in one stone;
one and a half stones;
two stones.

During the laying process, the mortar is applied 1-1.5 cm thick. The fact is that a thicker layer of mortar will significantly worsen the thermal insulation properties of the finished wall, since the advantage of a cinder block is precisely that it has voids, the air cushion of which has excellent properties for heat preservation. For the same reason, you should not fill the voids in the blocks with mortar - in addition to the completely unnecessary additional consumption of cement, you will only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the wall.

How to lay cinder blocks - take the stone by the middle with your left hand and bring it to the wall at an angle of 45 degrees, then turn the block parallel to the wall, press it tightly against the previous stone and tap it with a hammer or the handle of a trowel - for the pros. Excess mortar must be removed with a trowel and used for laying the next blocks. After laying, the finished material is covered with fine slag, followed by compaction.

Before starting work, think in advance about a platform or scaffolding from which it will be convenient to lay the top layers of blocks. A stepladder is not suitable for this - you will have nowhere to put a bucket of solution, it is unstable and you will have to constantly move it.

Colored chalk works great for marking blocks.

For better viscosity of the solution, you can add red clay to it in the following proportion - for 4 buckets of sand-cement mortar 1/3 bucket of clay. Another solution option is a mixture in a similar proportion, only ash is used instead of clay.

If you have any questions, watch the video: