How to install an MDF panel on a wall. Application of MDF panels for walls

Covering walls with MDF panels is an affordable and simple way to decorate residential premises.

The finishing material has a decent attractive appearance, has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and installing MDF panels with your own hands is not very difficult.

Interior decoration of walls with MDF panels is carried out in two main methods: on the lathing and directly on the wall surface. Preference for one or another finishing option is based on the condition of the walls in the room and its operating conditions.

Frame method

The essence of the method is to attach finishing MDF boards to a pre-constructed sheathing. It is used in several cases:

• the wall surface is uneven and there is no way to eliminate the defect;
• the room needs heat or sound insulation;
• there is a need to hide engineering Communication– wiring, for example, located on walls.

Finishing materials

Using the frame method, it is possible to install MDF panels on a wall of any form factor - slatted lamellas, wall panels and decorative sheets. AND appearance slabs, panel thickness, and quality are determined not by the installation method, but by the functionality of the room.

1. Form factor.

The most commonly used material is rack material, since, thanks to the tongue-and-groove joint, its installation is simple and does not take much time.

Sheathing with tile and sheet panels is more difficult, as it involves the need to adhere to a certain pattern.

1. Thickness.

The slabs are produced with a thickness of 6 mm for slats, and from 3 mm for sheet products. For finishing the walls of rooms with severe operating conditions, it is recommended to choose MDF panels of maximum thickness.

1. Moisture resistance.

Moisture-resistant MDF panels are used for finishing bathrooms, toilets and kitchens.

Tools and Supplies

• MDF boards - slatted, panel, sheet.
• Universal corner made of fiberboard - used when decorating corners.
• – if thermal insulation work is being carried out.
• Hammer, jigsaw, knife.
• Square and usually nylon thread.
• "Liquid nails" or other wood glue.
• Wood screws - from 40 to 80 mm, plastic dowels or plugs - for attaching the sheathing.
• Nails, clamps with a tongue of the required height, glue - depending on the chosen method of installing the panel.

Preparatory stage

1. Since in the process MDF installation panels on metal carcass or the wooden sheathing is not made, then preparing it comes down to cleaning it from dust and dirt. However, if there are large cracks on the wall, they should be repaired.
2. The wiring is retracted into corrugated pipes.
3. If there is a general high level of humidity in the apartment, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic primer.

Coefficient thermal expansion For products made from MDF, the moisture resistance is low, so the material should be kept indoors for 2-3 days in order to equalize the humidity of the board and the air.

With a small sheet thickness - 3-6 mm, this stage can be neglected; with a large sheet - 16-20 mm, exposure is necessary.

Manufacturing and installation of sheathing

The frame is made from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 20×40 mm, or a galvanized profile. Both solutions have their advantages

Wooden sheathing is much easier to install and does not require large quantity hardware, and is characterized by the ability to absorb and release moisture at a level close to MDF boards.

In this case, the material requires additional processing antiseptics and does not exclude the possibility of destruction under the influence of moisture.

The metal frame is highly durable and resistant to moisture.

Installation of MDF panels on a metal profile provides rigid fastening, which prevents the panels from elongating. In rooms with noticeable changes in temperature and humidity, for example on a loggia, this leads to warping of the finish.

Since, with the exception of special moisture-resistant ones, they are also not resistant to moisture, you should not build a frame more durable than the sheathing itself.

Installation of lathing for MDF panels: detailed instructions

Slat slats can be positioned horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Square panels can be formed into a pattern. In any case, the installation directions of the sheathing strip and the MDF panel must be perpendicular to each other.

The diagonal method of laying panels is more material-intensive.

Vertical installation of finishing is most often used, as it ensures a minimum of waste.

1. The most convex place on the wall surface is determined - its height is the control point.

The frame rail must pass through the top of the convexity.

1. The recommended pitch is 40–60 cm. If the sheet size is large, the pitch can be increased.

The possibility of increasing is checked as follows: if the panel bends slightly when pressed by hand between the slats, then the change is permissible.

1. The wall is marked with a pencil.

In this case, it is advisable to place bottom bar as close to the floor as possible: a plinth is attached to it.

1. The first to install the rail is the most convex place.

The block is placed on the marked line, and a hole is drilled in the wall through the plank using a hammer drill. The depth of the hole is calculated so that the self-tapping screw is at least 30–40 mm deep into the main wall. The fastening pitch is at least 60 cm.

1. First of all, the rail is fixed at the top of the convexity - close to the wall, and then at the opposite end, previously leveled.
2. To check the plane of the block, a thread is pulled from one end to the other end of the wall and fixed on self-tapping screws at a level; a match is placed between the head and the thread.

Correction of the rack fastening is carried out using wedges, the thickness of which is determined by the deviation of the fastening depth compared to the control point.

1. Blanks for wedges are cut from a lath and trimmed with a knife as work progresses.

It is allowed to use pieces of plywood.

1. The second rail, usually lower, is installed in the same way: the ends are fixed level, and the rest of the fastening is adjusted along the thread.
2. The following frame elements are mounted as follows: the rule is applied to the fixed slats, and the next bar is aligned in the plane with the first two.

It is prohibited to attach any objects to the MDF panel. However, it is quite possible to hang a mirror in the hallway if the installation wall MDF panels are carried out on the frame.

Wall cladding with MDF panels

Sheathing begins after constructing the frame.

Mounting methods:

• Glue.

The adhesive composition is applied to the panel in the areas of fixation to the sheathing. Suitable for thin slabs;

• Mechanical fastening with staples, nails or screws.

Provides reliable fixation, but does not compensate for thermal expansion. The method is recommended for rooms with stable temperature and humidity;

• Fastening with clamps.

The clip is placed on the edge of the panel and secured to the sheathing with nails. This is the most recommended option.

Installation sequence

1. Slat slats and universal corners are cut to length using a jigsaw or hacksaw. The edges are sanded.
2. Installation can be started from any corner of the room.

1. The first lamella is fixed in such a way that the edge with the ridge is directed towards the corner, and the gap between the wall and the sheathing board is 2-3 mm.

On the ridge side, the lamella is fixed with self-tapping screws to the slats, and on the groove side, a clamp is put on the edge and secured. When joining, the fastener is hidden by the ridge of the next element.

The next panels are inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one and secured with clamps.

1. The last panel usually needs adjustment.

The slab is tried on, the required width is determined, and the excess fragment is cut off. Then the element is inserted and also secured in the corner with self-tapping screws.

1. The corners and top edge are finished with a universal corner.

Design of sockets and switches

When decorating walls with MDF panels in such areas, you must:

• try on the panel and mark the location of the outlet;
• cut a hole of the appropriate diameter;
• fasten two parallel blocks to the wall so that the future socket can be installed on them;
• fix the MDF board to the sheathing.

Frameless method: do-it-yourself cladding

The method is implemented when the walls of the room have a flat surface, or if one of the tasks of the repair is their careful alignment. Any MDF products can be used, but more often this method

Preparation

Before proceeding with the installation of MDF panels with glue, the surface is cleaned and primed. The most commonly used primer is with an antiseptic effect.

The slatted lamellas are cut to the required height, the corner is also cut off, and the edges are processed with sandpaper. Square panels are adjusted after fitting.

Adhesives used

The adhesive composition must satisfy two requirements:

• After drying, maintain some plasticity to absorb the thermal expansion of the material.
• Have a dense structure, which would allow the glue to be applied in both a thin and thick layer. This property makes it possible to properly attach the panel even in cases where the wall surface is curved.

Most often, “Liquid nails” and “Moment installation” are used, but there may be other options - “MitreFix”, “Moment Crystal”.

Installation of cladding: sequence of actions

1. It is recommended to start covering from the corner towards the window opening.
2. Horizontal and vertical markings are made on the wall according to the size of the panels.
3. Glue is applied to the back of the slab in zigzag strips.
4. The panel easily presses against the wall and is immediately removed.

After 2–5 minutes it is fixed tightly. This way a stronger connection is achieved. The first lamella must be checked with a vertical level.

1. The slabs are laid end-to-end or overlapping.
2. In areas where it is planned to install sockets and switches, holes are pre-made in the panel.
3. The corners and upper edge are sealed with a universal corner, the lower edge with a plinth.

Finishing nuances: processing joints and corners

A universal corner is used for finishing corners. It consists of two plates made of chipboard and connected on the front side with a film.

The strips can bend both inward and outward, which allows the element to be used to decorate any corners.

1. The corner is cut to the required length. Docking, if the top edge is being decorated, is done at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. It is recommended to apply glue to the glue in two stages: light pressing so that the composition is distributed both over the cladding and on the surface of the corner, and then firmly with pressure.
3. Remains of glue, if they do appear, are cut off with a painting knife after complete hardening. They are difficult to remove with cleaning agent or solvent.

Joints are finished in exactly the same way, if such a need arises. However, in this case it is necessary to carefully select the element by color.

Finishing MDF with boards is not a job of a high level of complexity and requires not so much experience as careful execution.

From an aesthetic point of view, it is not recommended to decorate both the ceiling and the walls of the room with slabs at the same time. Styles that involve such a solution are not implemented in city apartments. But for a balcony or loggia this is a completely acceptable option.

MDF panels - excellent decorative finishing material, which is characterized by high installation speed and the absence of the need for “wet” work at all stages of finishing.

The panels also have their drawbacks (for example, MDF, like any wood, is afraid of water and high humidity, less resistant to mechanical damage compared to synthetic materials, work to restore damage to it is associated with a number of difficulties, etc.).

Fastening MDF panels depends on the type of base and the desired result. The most common type of fastening is mechanical (on the base, a frame is often equipped with wooden or metal guides, to which MDF panels are attached using nails, screws or clamps) and chemical - using adhesive compositions.

The latter method assumes a flat monolithic base, since in this case there is no frame made of profiles or guides.

Glue for MDF - review of the best options

The most commonly used adhesives for MDF panels are:

• Liquid Nails . A universal adhesive characterized by high adhesion, resistance to corrosion and moisture. Liquid nails do not react with substrates, unlike deep-penetrating glue.
• Polyurethane (or construction) foam. Characterized by various properties such as thermal insulation, sound insulation and high adhesion.
• Universal construction adhesive. A wide group of products, divided into many segments and areas of application. For MDF panels, it is necessary to use only those adhesives that provide adhesion to the base materials (brick, concrete, plasterboard, tiles, etc.) and wood (MDF consists of fine sawdust).

The most popular adhesive for MDF panels is liquid nails (TYTAN or TITEBOND Multi).

In addition to the economic effect when choosing an adhesive, you need to take into account the specifics of working with it (time for initial fixation, final drying time, method of application, service life, necessary tool and materials, etc.).

Installation of MDF panels with glue - instructions

Let's consider the technology for installing MDF using the adhesive compositions indicated above.

Liquid Nails(similar to— universal construction adhesives). The thickness of the adhesive layer is only 3-5 mm, so the base on which the panels will be glued must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, the panels will follow all the unevenness of the walls or peel off in places where they do not fit tightly.

Therefore, before gluing MDF panels to the wall, it must be leveled.

1. Degrease the surface, remove all dirt, and fill the crumbling areas with putty.
2. Before starting work, you need to make sure there are no irregularities using building regulations, long level or other tool.
3. The glue is applied in wave-like movements or in another way (for example, pointwise in large drops) so that it is evenly distributed over the width and length of the panel. The pitch between the adhesive strips determines the force with which the panel will adhere to the base. That is, for example, when installing in places of greatest load, the frequency of application can be increased. Usually this is 10-15 cm. If the manufacturer determines the waiting time before gluing, it is necessary to maintain the required pause.
4. Using a construction bubble or laser level, the starting panel is installed at the desired angle (depending on the intended pattern and direction of installation). Most often used vertical installation panels. You should start from the corner.
5. The glue on the first panel must have time to set to the base before installing subsequent ones (the same principle applies to other difficult junction areas, for example, internal or external corners). Setting time depends on the type of glue (see instructions).
6. Thanks to the tongue-and-groove connection, subsequent panels can be installed without waiting (except for the waiting time before gluing).

Corners (internal or external), as well as horizontal and vertical joints without a tongue-and-groove connection are closed decorative moldings(universal MDF corners). The glue should be applied to the middle of each side decorative corner(so that when pressing, excess glue does not come out).

The main thing is not to damage the decorative layer of the panels.

Option 2. Polyurethane foam.

Installation technology for MDF panels using construction foam is in many ways similar to installation technology using liquid nails or universal glue, with the only difference that the error of wall unevenness using foam can be higher due to a significant increase in foam volume.

The waiting time before gluing the MDF panel to the base depends on the requirements of the foam manufacturer.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Basic installation errors

For liquid nails:

• Do not overexpose the glue before installing the panel on the base. Otherwise, adhesion will be significantly lower.
• Incorrect application of glue - MDF panels will lose their attractive appearance if glue gets on the decorative front surface.
• Wiping off excess glue with a heavily dampened rag may cause the decorative coating to peel off.

For polyurethane foam:

• For gluing, use foam with a low shrinkage coefficient and professional tool(high-quality guns for construction foam can smoothly and strictly dose regulate its supply).
• If you do not wait for the first panel to set, then when subsequent panels move, the foam may collapse and not be fixed to the base.

Question: why can’t you glue MDF onto liquid nails?

Liquid nails glue is distinguished by its versatility. It is suitable for installation large number various building materials. And if “wood” is included in the list of materials to be glued, then liquid nails are not only possible, but also must be used for gluing MDF panels.

Often, ordinary people can confuse “liquid nails” glue with sealants or silicones (they are applied using the same tool, the tube is very similar to the tube of liquid nails and in the store they can be on the same shelf).

However, sealants for gluing MDF panels are not recommended, since their main purpose is to fix plumbing products and seal seams.

How to mount MDF panels to the wall, and on what basis, the decision must be made taking into account the characteristics of the wall geometry, the size of the room, the presence of communications and constant heating. Despite their enormous popularity, MDF wall boards are quite picky about operating conditions, so you should not fasten them with the first method that comes to hand, so as not to re-lay the finish a second time.

Dimensions of MDF panels

Often, consultants of trading companies present MDF boards as a lightweight version of particleboard panels, especially if you decipher English abbreviation. Accordingly, it is recommended to fasten them in the same way as in the case using chipboard. In fact, MDF panels in structure and production method differ significantly from particle board, which allows you to fasten the material at lower costs and at higher speeds.

There are only three main differences:

• Thin MDF boards are made from recycled cellulose fiber, which contains virtually no polysugars - a staple food for bacteria, fungus and rodents. Chipboard uses ordinary chips filled with phenol-formaldehyde resin, so they are secured with special tongues;
• The boards are made by pressing wood fiber mass with the addition of hydrogen peroxide. At a temperature of 250 o C, lignin and part of the cellulose are welded by the remains of caramelized polysaccharides into a dense fiber mass. In thick slabs, the MDF core is additionally impregnated with polymer resin, which makes it possible to fasten without the risk of delamination of the material;
• The bending strength of the panel is only slightly inferior to plywood with greater ductility and resistance to moisture. Most brands of MDF can be mounted on walls even in rooms with low level ventilation.

The difference, at first glance, is insignificant, but it is the strength and elasticity of the cellulose fiber base of the MDF panel that makes it possible to fasten the cladding slabs using end locks.

Even with a strong temperature difference, the MDF panel shows a level of expansion that is significantly less than that of plastic or conventional wooden lining, so the material can be fixed with smaller gaps, which is especially important for slabs of medium and large thickness.

What sizes are most popular?

Three size groups are used for wall cladding:

• Thin slabs, size group 5-9 mm thick, width 153, 198, 200,325 and 2070 mm;
• Medium MDF panels, thickness 10-18 mm, width 2070 mm;
• Oversized slabs, thickness 19-38 mm, width 2070 mm.

There are no restrictions on external dimensions, and the maximum thickness of the slabs is limited by the pressing capabilities of up to 40 mm. Double-layer MDF panels with maximum thickness up to 60 mm, used for the manufacture of reusable formwork and roofing lining. But the quality outer surface The number of such slabs is quite low, so they are not used for wall decoration.

Installation of MDF panels

Pressed cellulose fibers retain heat and absorb noise much better than plastic or wood. In addition, the MDF panel has a certain anisotropy of properties; it can be cut and processed in almost any order. Attaching the panels is easy and even a novice tiler can do it.

For home purposes, panels can be mounted in three ways:

• Lay the slabs on the glue;
• Mount the cladding on a wooden or metal frame;
• Installation of MDF panels using the hanging method.

The latter case is used as an exceptional way of cladding walls in a house made of timber or rounded logs. It is necessary to mount MDF boards on a ceiling-mounted suspension profile with a small gap between the floor and the lower edge of the board. The cladding ends up suspended on the profile, and as the walls shrink, the MDF sags along with the timber material.

It is clear that for wooden house It would be more preferable to use narrow slabs, 190-200 mm wide, while MDF is better fasten in a vertical direction. If it is not known exactly about the planned amount of wall shrinkage, then it is best to attach the decorative trim with a gap increased by 2-3 cm. Firstly, this ensures that if excessive shrinkage occurs, the floor will not tear the slabs off the walls, and secondly, the gaps will provide normal level ventilation and ventilation of the space between the panels and the wall.

Installation on a metal frame

Installing panels on a supporting frame made of galvanized profile is recognized by experts as the most rational and reliable way of fastening any cellulose-fiber materials. Even heavy slabs with a density of up to 1.5-1.8 g/cm 3 can be attached to a metal frame without any problems. The metal will not suffer from condensation or soaking of the walls as a result of burst pipes, water leaks in the apartment on the floor above, or a break in the roof.

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of the starting profile and side strips. MDF panels are light in weight, so it is enough to install a number of vertical profiles No. 50 in increments of 40-50 cm. Using a galvanized U-profile makes it possible to attach MDF to the walls of a room approximately two to three times faster than any other method.

Two or three drops of silicone applied to the profile will even out the load on the wall and will prevent the cladding from flapping in a strong wind, if behind decorative MDF slats ventilation gap is made.

Installation on a wooden frame

The easiest way to mount MDF panels is on wooden frame. There are two options for wall cladding using cellulose fiber panels. It all depends on the size of the room and the condition of the walls.

If a slight reduction in space due to the sheathing is not critical, a frame made of wooden slats sewn onto walls using metal hanger holders. For small and small rooms, most often it is necessary to partially cut and knock down a layer of plaster in order to level the surface along a vertical plumb line and make it as smooth as possible.

In any case, the starting strip is initially laid on the floor and under the ceiling. Using a long building level, the installation points of the hangers are marked on the wall and the minimum required overhang of the side lobes of the fasteners is determined.

If you plan to install horizontal MDF slats, the supporting strips are mounted vertically. To install full-size panels with a width of more than 200 mm, the walls are sewn in both directions. Each wooden plank of the sheathing is aligned along the starting guides and fixed with suspension petals using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

For relatively level and dry brick, concrete or block walls, the sheathing can be attached directly to the wall using dowels. In this case, more work is added, since each plank before fastening has to be adjusted for a long time using shim washers in order to maintain a single vertical plane. But you can save 3-4 cm internal space, which can be very useful, for example, when decorating the walls of a small bathroom or corridor.

Glue installation

Using lathing or a load-bearing frame always eats up an additional 3-7 cm of space on each wall. Usage frame system counts a good decision, but it is not at all necessary to fence a frame jungle if the walls of the room for future cladding with MDF panels turn out to be smooth, without serious defects and deviations from the vertical.

In this case, it is enough to clean the walls and prime them acrylic primer and apply thin layer insulating putty. The lime sublayer will help to further level the walls and improve the adherence of MDF boards to the supporting surface.

Laying panels on walls using glue is carried out in two options:

• Each MDF is glued to the wall with one lamella, from ceiling to floor, with fixation along the end edge using self-tapping screws and plastic plugs;
• The material is laid on the wall in horizontal stripes from corner to corner after assembling and gluing in the corner and edge parts.

If the slats are glued directly to the wall, then the end joints are not glued or treated with sealing materials. Most often, fairly large panels, 40-60 cm wide, are laid on walls using glue. This method is more advantageous from a technological point of view, since the load from the considerable weight of the MDF panel is distributed not over several clamps or brackets, but over the entire surface of the slab and walls. What does this give? Greater reliability, if the top row of MDF lamellas breaks, the middle and bottom rows will hold the entire structure.

Before fixing the MDF panels to the wall, reverse side covered with small portions of glue. These can be dots, spirals, short stripes. The main thing is that the adhesive material is evenly distributed over the wall surface.

The best glue to use is automotive sealant, polyurethane adhesives and homemade adhesive masses based on a mixture of acetone and polystyrene foam. Acrylic and polyvinyl acetate adhesives hold MDF panels rather weakly.

For your information! The MDF sticker on the sealant makes it possible to trim and remove the panel from the wall if necessary without damaging the surface. Stiffer alkyd, polystyrene and acrylic adhesives can tear off part of the back surface.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall

The process of installing cellulose fiber panels is relatively simple and easy to understand, even for a beginner. If a horizontal installation method is used, then the bottom panel or lamella, directly resting on the starting bar frame. It needs to be laid on glue, aligned construction level and secure with a stapler or self-tapping screw.

Before laying the next panel on the wall, it is necessary to install the corner or edge cladding elements, fix them on the wall, and only then proceed with laying the next parts of MDF.

How to fasten MDF panels to a bar or profile is selected individually in each specific case, based on the fastening conditions and the size of the material. Relatively thin, 6-9 mm lamellas are snapped into place with tongue-and-groove locks, after which the free end is sewn to the beam with staples and self-tapping screws. If it is assumed that it is possible to periodically remove the MDF cladding from the wall to inspect communications or wiring laid behind the decorative trim, then the panels are installed with clamps.

Thick slabs are mounted directly on the walls using glue and dowels, sealing the joints with acrylic putty and then gluing wallpaper or PVC film.

A difficult option on how to install MDF on walls with insulation

MDF boards are much simpler and easier to handle than heavy plasterboard, plywood or plastic, while the strength of the panels is enough to build two or even three-layer cladding options from a fiber composite with insulation as an intermediate layer.

For example, cold external walls made of profiles, siding or concrete blocks are hemmed from the inside MDF boards HDF class, density from 800-1800 kg/m 3. The thickness of the slabs is 25-40 mm. The laid panels are stitched at the joints with oblique screws and staples, and the seam itself is rubbed with polymer mastic.

The material is treated with impregnation, which ensures good vapor transmission with high resistance to surface condensation. The slabs are fastened to the external walls “cold” - using steel dowels and carpentry screws. WITH inside The slab cladding is sewn on with wooden slats or strips cut from slabs.

A steam membrane is stretched over the laid thermal insulation and hammered in with horizontal slats with a cross-section of 20x20 mm. The last stage lightweight ones are sewn onto the slatted sheathing decorative panels MDF class LDF with wood texture, natural stone or veneered.

Due to the low density of LDF, 200-600 kg/m 3, MDF panels perfectly transmit steam, which is removed through the ventilation gap and the ceiling ventilation seam. In this way the walls are sheathed in summer kitchens, balconies, verandas, any premises with frame-type walls.

Features of finishing with MDF panels

Most professional finishers prefer to work with MDF, since there is no dust and dirt, as is the case with drywall, installation is faster, and there are much fewer problems.

Assembly and installation of MDF on walls is in many ways similar to laying laminate floors, the only difference being that there are more options for choosing patterns decorative design premises and a much more complex arrangement of corner and slope sectors of the walls.

Slopes

The arrangement of door or window slopes is no different from plasterboard options. If the slats were laid vertically on the walls, then to design a window or doorway it is enough to cut a panel of the required height and width and stick it on the slope plane polyurethane foam or sealant.

If the walls in the room are protected by horizontal panels, then the slopes will have to be assembled from sections with self-tapping screws and plastic plugs.

Corners and crevices

Between the laid additional elements and the main part of the cladding, cracks and gaps always form. They have to be eliminated with the help of special decorative corner trims and decorative skirting boards.

All auxiliary decor is glued to “Titanium” or “Mounting Moment for MDF”, a small amount of glue is applied to the edge along the gap, after which a corner strip is installed at the joint. To prevent the decor from coming off, the corner is temporarily fixed with tape.

Sockets and switches

Every room has at least a couple of outlets and one switch. In order not to dismantle them during the installation of MDF, proceed as follows: measure the coordinates of the location of the socket on the wall, after which a hole of the appropriate shape and size is cut out with a ring drill or jigsaw. When installing an MDF panel, the size and position of the hole is specified and trimmed with a sharp knife.

All that remains is to install the panel, secure it to the wall, and close the remaining gap with a decorative frame.

Conclusion

The details of the process, how to attach MDF panels to the wall, must be thought out and planned in advance, before work begins. decorative finishing premises. The process itself is not particularly difficult, but in any room there are many problem areas where you almost have to invent the fastening method on your own. In this case, it is better to draw the details and method of fixation on the diagram, so that you do not have to rack your brains and waste time during the work process.

When traditional natural materials begin to deplete, as happened with wood, natural desire to minimize losses and put even production waste into use.

This is how analogues appeared wooden shields based on sawdust and shavings - chipboard and fiberboard. From the "Mason gun" fibreboard was produced, which later received the name MDF.

Types of material

According to the density of the facial layer fibreboards are differentiated by marking:

• LDF from 200 to 600 kg/m³;
• HDF - over 800 kg/m³.

According to the regulations of the standard:

• general purpose (MDF);
• moisture resistant (MDF.H);
• structural (MDF.LA).

Based on the type of front surface, the slabs are distinguished:

• embossed (milled);
• flat.

According to covering capabilities:

• rack (stacked) - width from 150 mm, length up to 3700 mm;
• tiled (composited) - within the range: 30x30 and 98x98 cm;
• sheet - 122x244 cm.

By finishing method:

• laminated - covered with polyvinyl chloride film (plain color, with a pattern, glossy, matte, imitating natural materials);
• veneered - with a front layer of valuable wood veneer;
• painted - coated with paints and enamels (by pouring method), creating an elastic layer, using the printing method.

In addition to synthetic films, films based on paper based and paper laminates.

Film coating not afraid of cleaning agents, resistant to mechanical stress, resistant to direct sun rays, but raises the cost of the material.

Advantages and disadvantages

The raw materials used for the production of MDF panels give them properties natural wood , and by mechanical properties even superior.

MDF panels, like any material, have their pros and cons.

Obvious advantages of MDF:

1. Strength.
2. Moisture resistance.
3. Frost resistance.
4. Uniformity of structure.
5. Large selection of decorative finishes.
6. Imitation of expensive natural materials.
7. Long-term preservation of product geometry.
8. Easy to install.
9. Availability of fragmentary repairs.
10. Economical.
11. Ease of transportation.
12. Relatively long service life.
13. Sound insulation properties.
14. Environmental Safety.

Flaws:

1. Self-weight value.
2. Not suitable for fastening with nails.
3. Processing waste in the form of dust.
4. Vulnerability to open fire.
5. Swelling at high humidity.
6. Susceptibility to deformation due to mechanical impact (impact, fall).

How to choose?

Accounting technical characteristics material and right choice tool is the key to success when working with this type of facing slab.

Selecting panels for interior decoration walls depends on many conditions:

1. What material resources do you have?
2. What problems can be solved by the covering capabilities of the material.
3. What decorative load will the cladding bear as part of the design project?
4. How important will the additional properties of the slab be for a given room: moisture resistance, fire resistance.
5. Does the protective (decorative) coating of the slab matter for compliance with hygiene standards?

Optimal choice - wall panel (780 kg/m³), in type and assortment, meeting the tastes and capabilities of the owner.

Scope of application

In rooms with constant humidity - bathrooms, indoor swimming pools - the material exhibits increased fragility.

MDF panels found their application in various fields, in construction, for the manufacture of cabinet furniture, in interior design, the manufacture of arches, partitions and much more.

Application of MDF panels:

Do-it-yourself methods for attaching MDF wall panels

The most common technique alignment and simultaneous decoration of walls- cover them with MDF boards.

Wall slabs can be attach to the wall in two ways:

• By frame technology(to a metal profile or on a wooden sheathing);
• installation with glue (liquid nails).

On a wooden sheathing

On wooden sheathing panels are fastened from slats with a cross-section of 20x40 mm along horizontal joists using tongue-and-groove locks. Why hammer small nails into the corner of the lock groove. To ensure accuracy of work, a metal striker is used, which allows you to drive the nail right up to the head.

On a metal profile

In order to install the panel on a metal profile you will need the following consumables:

• SD profile (3m) for racks;
• UD profile (3mm), guide;
• straight suspension;
• additional strips and corners for joints;
• corrugation (self-extinguishing) for electrical wiring.

Walls under MDF do not require special preparation, except, if necessary, to additionally insulate them.

The position of the sheets (composite slabs, slats) on the wall is determined.

Implemented marking a wall using a level, self-tapping screws and nylon thread for the UD guide profiles. Sections of exposed wiring are removed into the corrugation.

A frame is constructed from a metal profile under MDF:

• The UD profile is attached with dowels to the ceiling and floor (wide side to the surface);
• suspensions for LED profiles are fixed on the walls with a “quick installation” fastening;
• SD profiles are attached to the ends of the UD profile of the floor and ceiling; fixed in suspensions in increments of 60 cm; the vertical position is verified with a plumb line;
• additional horizontal profiles are installed using crab joints on vertical racks in places of probable impacts: 60-70 cm from the floor, and between them.

Installation of MDF panels on the frame using clamps and small self-tapping screws, in the sequence: panel, groove at the end, fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Corner joints closed with additional parts from PVC.

First panel additionally secured with self-tapping screws in places that will be hidden after the work is completed: to the floor (under the baseboard) and the ceiling (under the decorative trim).

This video shows a clear example of how to decorate a wall. MDF panels with your own hands.

Without frame

Mounting panels without a frame using “liquid nails” is even easier. The consistency of the glue should ensure elasticity of adhesion and filling in uneven walls. To successfully follow the technology, the instructions on the tube are enough.

Primer - required condition process. Glue is applied to the panel pointwise and in a checkerboard pattern.

It is necessary to glue in two stages: after the initial pressing to the wall, the panel is torn off (to weather the glue), and a second time (after about five minutes) it is necessary to glue the panel completely. The entire process is controlled at the construction level.

The panels must be cut evenly and carefully to ensure aesthetic articulation at the joints.

To prevent damage front surface when cutting a slab, it should be placed on the work table with the glossy side up.

For joining in wall corners use an additional element, commercially available - a special corner for external or internal corners.

Decorating walls with MDF panels is not a difficult task for someone who has experience working with tools and is not afraid to acquire new skills. The result will please you and your household.

This article will be useful to those who decide to do self-installation MDF wall panels, as well as those who for some reason doubt their abilities. MirSovetov will tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of MDF panels and share with you detailed photo report on the installation process.
MDF is close relative Chipboard. It is also made from pressed and bonded with special substances wood shavings. But thanks to special hot pressing technology, MDF has higher performance ratings and does not contain resins and phenol. Because of this and more, MDF, which appeared quite recently, instantly became popular and in demand. MDF panels cover walls, ceilings, and niches. True, despite their environmental friendliness, they are most often used when decorating the walls of corridors, balconies, offices, cafes, bars and are avoided during renovations living rooms. The whole point is that after covering the walls and MDF ceiling the feeling is created standard box“, and many people do not like this state of affairs.

Advantages and disadvantages of MDF

The most significant advantage of MDF panels, in my opinion, is ease of installation. Even without special skills, you can easily cope with the task. At the same time, no preliminary preparation no walls required. The installation itself is finishing, and the process is incredibly low-dust (especially in comparison with). You can also easily and quickly dismantle both all panels and one damaged one.
But this is not all the advantages of MDF panels. They provide excellent sound and thermal insulation (especially on external walls when additional insulation). Easy to clean with a regular damp cloth. Durable and environmentally friendly. The panels have original look and an incredible range of colors: wood, stone, brick - for every taste. Well, a nice range of prices - for any budget.
I won’t hide any shortcomings either. MDF panels have low moisture resistance - wood is wood. Although now there are special series of durable panels for the bathroom and kitchen. They can be successfully used in the countryside. The second drawback is low strength. Of course, you won’t push them through with your fingernail, but that’s not it! A heavy hit with a soccer ball can spoil all the beauty. But, as mentioned above, a damaged panel can be easily dismantled. And lastly, MDF panels burn well and quickly. Therefore, you need to be careful with fire, and the wiring should be “hidden” in a special self-extinguishing corrugation, which will extinguish the spark if the wiring catches fire.

Tools and materials

We will need a hammer drill, MDF panels, self-extinguishing corrugation for electrical wiring, a screwdriver, SD (ceiling) and UD profiles, gluers, bugs (screws), 25 mm self-tapping screws, ceiling hangers.

Step-by-step installation process

Let's move on to practice. As mentioned above, there is nothing complicated in the installation itself, but some nuances are worth knowing.
Let's start by preparing the walls. Actually, no special preparation is required. First, tear off the wallpaper (if any) - you don’t have to try too hard, the main thing is to remove those that come off easily. Next, I recommend treating the walls with a primer - it will prevent the spread of fungi, this is especially important for rooms with high humidity and external walls. If there is a desire and an urgent need, you should cover the walls with insulation. Foiled penofol A is perfect. It is similar to wallpaper, but 5 mm thick. It is glued to the wall with glue, but not overlapping, but end-to-end! And the shiny side should be glued inward, so the room will retain heat like a thermos.
We cover a nine-story building with MDF panels of the standard three-ruble note. External walls There is no dampness in this corridor, so the owner decided to abandon the insulation.
We start installation from the ceiling. Using a hydraulic level, we find the lowest point of the four corners. We retreat 4-5 cm, draw horizontal line, and fasten the 60x6 mm UD profile to the wall with quick installation.

I often see frames from wooden planks. I prefer to make the frame from profiles because wooden blocks, provided the wood is not dried enough, it will “lead” over time, and the MDF will “swell.” I observed a similar case - desperate owners had to start repairs, as they say, from scratch.

Now we attach the suspensions to the ceiling at a distance of 600-700 mm from each other. Suspensions are attached using “quick installation” fasteners 40 or 60 mm long. First, we drill holes in the ceiling with a 6 mm drill.
Next, we attach the SD profiles to the hangers as follows.

This frame is universal: you can attach both MDF and plastic to it, or. In our case, we attach MDF panels. To do this, we buy MDF gluers and self-tapping screws. But before you begin installing the panels, you should extend electrical communications under the ceiling lights.

The first strip is attached to the corner profile with self-tapping screws, and on the other side it is secured with gluers (to all frame profiles), which are attached to the frame with hooks. In this way, it is typed quite quickly - one panel after another.



And we install the lamp. There will be no problems with these, the lamps come with comprehensive instructions.

Now about the walls. First of all, hide all electrical wires in special corrugations - they will prevent a fire in the event of a short circuit or spark in the wiring.

Next we make a frame on the walls. Using the same hangers, we attach vertical supports from the SD profile to the walls (in corners, near doors and openings). The top of these profiles is attached to the UD profile (which is attached to finished ceiling), and the bottom - to the UD profile attached to the floor.
Now about horizontal profiles. Usually builders install them according to the “knee-butt-shoulder” principle (at level). That is, at the level where a blow is most likely. Approximately 600-700 mm apart.


This is what the frame should look like.




When moving from large corridor Let's build an arch in a small one. First we make the frame. We buy a special arched UD profile and attach it to the frame as follows:





This is what the finished arch frame looks like.
We begin to assemble MDF panels.
The installation principle is still the same - on a gluer. Don’t skimp, don’t glue MDF, don’t fasten with nails/screws. MDF must “breathe”, so use gluers - they are exactly what you need.




After the arch is completely covered with MDF panels, a plastic arched corner is glued to the joints. It bends easily, and there will be no problems with gluing. You need to glue it on liquid nails. In order for the corner to “grab” well, we fix it with mounting tape. By the way, after a few hours the tape can be removed, only very carefully and slowly so as not to damage the surface of the MDF.
Here's what happened as a result:


Light, cozy and smells of wood.
Happy renovation!

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