Dieffenbachia is a wonderful houseplant of the aroid family. Dieffenbachia has beautiful wide leaves with a variegated color. At home, the plant reaches up to 2 meters in height. If you grow dieffenbachia in a room where the air is dry, then it quickly becomes bare and becomes completely unattractive. In order for the flower to be both lush and bushy again, regular pruning is necessary. How to trim Dieffenbachia at home is collected in this article.

Proper pruning dieffenbachia

For proper pruning of a plant, you need to take:

• sharp knife;
• use rubber gloves;
• charcoal;
• alcohol;
• soap solution.

It is recommended to cut a plant with a long stem so that the diameter is at least 3 cm. The cut should be made as low as possible, since nothing grows on a bare trunk. It is required to check that the rudiments, which are presented in the form of semirings, are preserved on the stump. Ideally, there should be two or three. From each germ it will be possible to get a new stem, and the flower will become very picturesque in the future.

The milky juice of dieffenbachia is poisonous, so it is recommended to use rubber gloves during pruning. Pruning is done carefully so that the juice does not get on the skin or in the eyes. At the slightest contact with the juice of the plant on the skin, there may be a severe burn. Try to be very careful when cutting.

To reduce the release of juice, it is necessary to stop watering dieffenbachia 5 days before the procedure. It is necessary to cut the trunk with a sharp blade or you can use a thin hacksaw.

Before pruning, you need to wipe the blade with alcohol to prevent the plant from becoming infected. After the procedure, the instrument should be washed well with detergent to remove all juice residues.

You need to cut horizontally. To avoid contamination of dieffenbachia, the cut site must be disinfected with ground activated carbon.

The remaining stump can be covered with a jar or polyethylene. Before the awakening of the kidneys, you need to reduce the frequency of watering. The jar constantly needs to be removed to ventilate the plant. When the rudiments wake up, you can regularly water and fertilize.

The upper part of the plant, which remained after pruning, can be rooted and after a while planted to the stump. Thanks to this, you will get a beautiful and lush bush.

If you cut off a long trunk with leaves at the end, then it is optimal to cut it into several parts. Indoor Dieffenbachia is superbly propagated by stem cuttings. Before you start rooting the cutting, it should be dried a little, about 2 days.

Rooting of the apical part can be carried out in water or wet sand. If rooting in water, then it is optimal to use an opaque container for this. The water should be changed occasionally.

Care rules

Temperature and lighting

Dieffenbachia loves bright lighting and warmth. The room temperature should be 18 - 21°C. When the air temperature drops to 10 degrees, the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and rot. The plant does not tolerate drafts and excessively dry air.

Indoor dieffenbachia prefers bright diffused light, but it must be removed from direct sunlight. If you create additional lighting, then the plant pot can be placed away from the windows. In summer, a green pet can be taken out into the fresh air.

In the cold season, the plant needs good lighting. With insufficient light, the leaves of the plant become smaller, and the flower loses its decorative effect.

Watering mode

Dieffenbachia should be watered abundantly from spring to autumn. In winter, watering should be moderate, it is recommended to use warm water for irrigation. Do not flood the plant, because excess moisture leads to rotting of the roots and the appearance of brown spots on the edges of the leaves. But it is also not necessary to allow the soil to dry out, as the leaves fall off because of this.

To increase the humidity of the air, put the flower on a pallet with gravel and water. It is necessary to regularly spray, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth.

top dressing

If you properly care for dieffenbachia, then it will have an excellent appearance. With the onset of an active growth period (spring and summer), Dieffenbachia needs to be fed. Fertilizers should be applied once every two weeks. To do this, use complex mineral fertilizers that do not contain lime. In the autumn and winter season, the plant does not need to be fertilized.

It should be borne in mind that the form of a plant with white leaves turns green if the flower receives a lot of nitrogen. Therefore, it is best not to use organic fertilizers for such flowers. When feeding dieffenbachia with mineral fertilizers, the dose must be reduced by 2 times.

Transfer

Transplantation must be carried out correctly so that the plant develops well. It is optimal to transplant dieffenbachia in the spring. To do this, use a soil consisting of such components as:

1. Sod land - 4;
2. Leaf and peat soil - 1;
3. Sand - 1 part.

Before transplanting, you should select a pot 3 cm larger than the previous one. When transplanting, it is advisable to slightly deepen the stem of the plant. Thus, new roots will grow from its buried area.

Dieffenbachia is an amazing plant for apartments and offices. It pleases with lush variegated greenery and fast growth. In a year, you can grow a one and a half meter giant from a tiny seedling. But, unfortunately, in the dry air of the premises, it quickly becomes bare, and instead of a lush bush, you have an ankle-length monster with a twisted trunk and a bunch of leaves on top. In order to turn Dieffenbachia decorative, you will have to cut it regularly.

You will need

• - a hacksaw or a knife with teeth;
• - alcohol;
• - ground cinnamon or coal;
• - rubber gloves;
• - soap solution.

Instruction

2. On a bare trunk, nothing will grow closer, therefore cut as permitted below. Make sure that dormant buds remain on the stump. They look like holes or half rings. It is better if there are 2-3 of them. From every bud a new trunk will grow, and in the future the plant will become very decorative.

3. When pruning, dieffenbachia releases a lot of milky juice, one that is very poisonous. Be sure to wear gloves. Remove small children and animals from the room during pruning. Even one drop of dieffenbachia juice that has fallen on the mucous membrane of a child can cause severe burns and anaphylactic shock.

4. To reduce sap production, stop watering the plant three to four days before the procedure.

5. Prepare the tool for work. The trunk of an adult dieffenbachia becomes woody, therefore, by working with an unsatisfactory sharp knife, you can grind it. It is better to use a thin hacksaw or a perfectly sharpened knife with teeth for work.

6. Treat the cutting part with alcohol so as not to introduce a bacterial or mold infection into the wound. After work, thoroughly wash the tool with detergent in order to remove the remaining juice.

7. The cut must be completely horizontal. In order to prevent infection of the plant or the origin of rot, treat the cut with ground cinnamon or charcoal.

8. It is allowed to close the stump with a glass jar, which must be regularly raised for ventilation. Reduce watering until dormant buds wake up. After this, water and fertilize as usual.

9. The top left after pruning can be rooted and later planted to the remaining stump. In this case, you will get a large lush bush.

10. If the cut part is a long trunk with a bunch of leaves at the end, cut it into several parts. Dieffenbachia reproduces charmingly in stem pieces, even if they do not have leaves. Before rooting, dry the prunings slightly for one to 2 days.

11. Root the top part in water or immediately in a damp mixture of earth and sand. If rooting in water, use an opaque container. Change the water from time to time.

Dieffenbachia (Dieffenbachia) - a houseplant with evergreen leaves, whose birthplace is the wet tropics of Central and South America. The main decoration of Dieffenbachia are huge, variegated leaves. The pattern is formed by various tones of green, specks and stripes of ivory color, which make every leaf of this plant a real decoration.

Instruction

1. From the fact that dieffenbachia is a tropical plant, it is accustomed to the high humidity of its habitat. But it is not without reason that the phrase "tropical plant" denotes a special susceptibility and capriciousness to the conditions of content and care. Watering dieffenbachia need to be moderate. Before watering, you need to make sure that the earth in the pot has already dried out after the previous watering. Take a long thin sliver and stick it into a pot of earth, if it remains dry, without adhering earth, then pour the flower with settled water at room temperature.

2. After watering, wait 15-20 minutes and drain all the water that has accumulated in the pan without residue. It is impossible to leave it so that the roots of the plant do not rot. In the spring and summer, watering should be carried out quite often, in winter - less often. Keep an eye on the pot's drainage hole and clean it if necessary.

3. Spray the plant daily on both sides of the leaf with a spray bottle. The leaves should also be wiped with a damp soft cloth and a mixture of non-alcoholic beer and water, so that they do not form a gray coating and specks from dried water drops.

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Note!
Leaf tip metamorphosis is the best indicator of improper watering. If they turn yellow and dry, the plant does not have enough water. If they are wet at first, and then turn brown and dry out, you are pouring too much water.

Useful advice
In spring and summer, every 10 days, watering should be combined with top dressing from a weak solution of mineral fertilizers. In winter and autumn, such top dressing is allowed to be done once a month. In the event that continuous waterlogging occurs, the base of the stem may rot, turn pale and soften. In this case, it is allowed to try to save the plant by rooting the top in new soil. From waterlogging, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow and curl up, from the fact that the root system is rotten.

Mitts are a comfortable and perfect accessory for winter and cold autumn. You don't have to take off your gloves every time you look for something in your bag, and for owners of mobile phones with a touchscreen, fingerless gloves are a real lifesaver in the cold. Of course, you can buy mitts in a store, and you can also make them from ordinary gloves.

Instruction

1. The method of transforming gloves into mittens depends on what material the gloves themselves are made of. It turns out that if you decide to transform your shabby leather gloves (it is desirable that they be without a lining that can creep), turn them inside out. Put it on your hand and mark with a pencil or chalk (depending on the color of the gloves) the places where you will cut them. Leave half a centimeter to a centimeter to fold the edges, and bravely cut off any excess.

2. After you cut fingers on the gloves, you need to put the top of your fingers and flash if you want the mitts to serve you for a long time. To do this, you will need a thick needle and thread. After the conclusion of this procedure, tightly fasten the knots, the gloves are ready to be worn.

3. If you want to convert knitted gloves into mittens, you will have to tinker. To do this, it is desirable to have minimal crochet skills. It turns out, try on gloves on your hand and sweep where you will cut them. In this case, you need to notice half a centimeter-centimeter less than the length you want. Now take off your gloves and carefully cut off the excess.

4. Take a hook and thread. You can choose the threads to match the gloves, or vice versa, take contrasting threads that will stand out and turn the gloves into a shiny and stylish accessory. After removing the cut threads, knit a circle of single crochets around the entire cut finger, then fasten the threads and hide them. Now your fingerless gloves will not unravel and are allowed to be worn.

5. If you are going to modernize fabric gloves, you need to cut them in the same way as leather ones: sweep from the inside a centimeter larger, then put and stitch the excess. However, if your gloves are made of knitwear, it’s better for you to contact the atelier, where they will be able to correctly process the edges of the fabric so as not to spoil the product.

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Dieffenbachia is a charming tropical plant with fleshy variegated leaves and a pretty appearance. If you don’t have this charmer at home yet, or if you desperately want to rejuvenate an overgrown flower, it’s time to think about rooting a young shoot.

You will need

• - a sharp knife;
• - water tank;
• - a container or planter;
• - multifunctional soil, or soil for Dieffenbachia.

Instruction

1. Get the right process. If you already have dieffenbachia at home, everything is easy - you just need to prefer a suitable branch with a strong sheet and cut it off with a sharp knife. If you want to take a flower for divorce from friends, you will have to trust them in this matter. In fact, choosing the right bosom is not as difficult as it might seem. Take a strong sheet or branch closer to the crown and cut it off with a knife with a confident movement. It is not worth breaking off the leaves, because in this case they are seriously injured. An even cut will rapidly begin to give young roots and will not suffer from a lack of moisture or deformation.

2. Now put your cutting in water and wait for small roots to form. Depending on the size of the sheet, select the appropriate water container. It should not be too deep, so that the plant has a chance to straighten out and turn to the sun as needed, but you should not get carried away with too small containers either. Remember the main thing - the sheet must be in a stable location and not tumble from any movement. At first, do not expose your process to direct, clear rays, give it two or three days to recover. Later, after you notice that the sheet looks elastic and fresh, it is allowed to put it on the window. The rooting rate of dieffenbachia depends on the time of year, the temperature outside the window and the length of daylight hours. Under favorable conditions, in two to three weeks you will notice new roots.

3. Transplant the shoot into a pot with soil. This should be done only when the roots of the plant reach 3-5 cm in length and their number is at least five. Finally, you can take a chance and plant a shoot with barely formed roots in the ground, but it’s better, nevertheless, to be patient and wait until they become more reliable. Do not plant your tropical charm immediately in a large container, because in this case you should not expect rapid growth from her. Until each earthen ball is filled with roots, the plant will not easily begin to grow leaves. It is consequently, for starters, select a small pot or flowerpot, slightly larger in radius than the width of the Dieffenbachia leaf. After a while, you will certainly be able to transplant the plant into a larger pot.

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Note!
While the process is in a container of water on the windowsill, do not forget to take care of it. Water should be added as it dries. And if you see that it has become cloudy or turned green, rinse the roots with running water, change the jar and fill it with fresh water.

Useful advice
Use only sterile soil intentionally for dieffenbachia or multipurpose soil. The soil brought from the street or summer cottage may contain pests or pathogens that are very unsafe for a young, fragile plant.

Indoor plants in the house greatly increase the well-being of the people living in it, and also improve the energy and atmosphere of the room. One of these plants is dieffenbachia - a heat-loving tropical inhabitant, one that, in addition to its beautiful appearance, perfectly cleans the air of harmful substances. What to do if the shiny green leaves of dieffenbachia suddenly turn yellow?

Causes of yellowing

Usually dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow if the plant is not cared for properly, but this is not the only reason for this phenomenon. Color metamorphosis can cause direct, clear rays to hit the leaves, causing them to burn. Often, yellowing causes an excess of moisture, which contributes to the decay of the roots, as a result of which the leaves do not receive sufficient nutrition from the soil. Dieffenbachia also does not tolerate dry air - the lack of moisture causes a lack of substances needed by the plant, and its leaves begin to turn yellow little by little. drafts that undermine its stability to various diseases, lack of nutrients, minerals or dryness of the soil. If yellowing of the leaves is noted during the period of accelerated growth of the top of the plant, this may be due to a lack of space in the flowerpot, the one that needs to be replaced with a larger container. With dry soil, dieffenbachia should be watered immediately after the topsoil has dried.

How to cure yellow leaves

If the Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow due to root rot caused by heavy watering, the plant must be dug up, the damaged roots cut off and sprinkled with grated charcoal. After that, dieffenbachia should be planted in a smaller flowerpot with a drainage hole - while at the bottom of the flowerpot it is also necessary to place a drainage layer and plant the plant in slightly moistened soil, consisting of 2 parts of peat, four parts of earth, one part of humus sand and earth, as well as a small piece of charcoal. When transplanting dieffenbachia, the soil should be lightly compacted after adding the entire handful of earth to the flowerpot. After transplanting, the plant does not need to be watered for several days, putting it in a warm and slightly shaded place. Dieffenbachia leaves must be sprinkled with water all day, and it is allowed to start watering the soil after a few days, without overdoing it with the amount of water. All watering should be carried out only after the drying of the soil. It is also necessary to monitor the humidity in the room where Dieffenbachia stands - it should be quite high. In the treatment of dieffenbachia, it is important to take precautions when working with a plant with gloves, from the fact that its juice is poisonous.

Advice 6: Why does the Almighty allow torment and even death of small children

The torment and untimely death of innocent people, even babies, is one of the most painful issues. Many people, finding no result on it, turned away from hope. Meanwhile, it is the believer who is willing to both realize and accept the result of this question.

A person who recognizes the existence of the Almighty knows that He is the basis and primary source of the Universe, impeccably intelligent, impeccably objective and a source of boundless love. The love and torment of virgin people seem incompatible with such a collation.

Suffering, death and sin

“The punishment for transgression is death,” says the Holy Scripture. Not a single Christian refutes this, but often people understand such a formulation in a simplistic way. Punishment is presented as a legal representation: an act - a court - a sentence. This even pushes people to condemn the Almighty for the "cruelty of the sentences." In reality, the punishment for misconduct is not “criminal”, but “natural”. The Almighty established the laws of nature, according to which the physical world exists - physical, chemical, biological. It is famously famous what happens when people refuse to reckon with these laws - say, if a person smokes, he eventually develops lung cancer. No one will call this "unnecessarily heartless heavenly punishment", everyone understands that this is a common consequence of the actions of the person himself. Not invariably, because of the thoughtless violation of the laws of nature, the unconstrained guilty suffers. For example, because of the negligence of the workers of the Chernobyl nuclear power plant, thousands of people suffered, and it is impossible to say that someone “punished them with senseless cruelty” - this is a common consequence of human frivolity. The spiritual component of the universe also has its own laws. They are not as obvious from a human point of view as the laws of physics or biology, but they order the world in accordance with the Sacred plan. Initially, man was conceived as an immortal being, made for happiness. It was not the Almighty who destroyed this state - man himself decided to retreat from God's freedom. Considering that God's freedom is the root cause of the universe that organized it, the departure from it provokes chaos in the world, plunges it into a series of accidents, terrible in their stupidity. And here it is no longer conceivable to either ask or answer what this or that person suffers for, whether it be a mature person or a child: this happens because the world is plunged into a state of chaos through human misdeeds. And everyone contributes to the creation of this "spiritual Chernobyl" - there is no such person, the one who would not sin.

"For what" and "for what"

And yet it is unrealistic to imagine the world as unconditional chaos, into one that the Almighty certainly would not intervene - only later than the gospel events. But this engagement can be different. According to the apt expression of the English theologian C.S. Lewis, a person wants to see the Almighty as a “good grandfather”, who made the world extraordinary in order to “pamper” a person. But the Almighty is not a “good old man”, He is the Heavenly Pope, the one who wants to see his creation not “joyful at any cost”, but in His Image and Likeness, approaching in superiority to the Almighty. to develop it, to bring it to perfection. For the soul to become, loads are also needed - and for this, fasting and prayers are obviously unsatisfactory. In some cases, the soul even needs "shock therapy". Consequently, a Christian does not raise the question "why" - he asks "why". ... The woman was biased towards the disabled, called them "flawed", persuaded her daughter to break her friendship with a disabled girl, fearing that her daughter "she herself would become flawed." But this woman gave birth to a disabled grandson - and her attitude towards terminally ill people has changed forever. A child had to suffer in order for a person to open the way to salvation. And this is just one result, “lying on the surface” - tea no one can know how the life of this child and his loved ones would have been if he had been born healthy. And no one knows how the life of people who died in infancy could have been - but this is known to the Omniscient Supreme, He knows what He saved these children from. Tea for the Almighty - unlike man - death is not the final fall and the end of everyone.

Pokémon are fictional characters that live in a wonderful world. The term "pokemon" was coined by Satoshi Tajiri, who also came up with the game of the same name and dozens of types of "pocket monsters".

The word "pokemon" is an English abbreviation for "pocket monster". Pokémon owe their existence to the Japanese game designer Satoshi Tajiri. Pokémon are required to fight each other under the command of experienced trainers. This is the point of the game and the core plot of the animated series. Satoshi stumbled upon the idea of ​​Pokemon in early childhood, when, like many of his peers, he was fond of catching insects. About fifty types of Pokemon have been described each. The first in the list of Pokémon (Pokedex) is Bulbasaur.

Bulbasaur

Bulbasaur resembles a dinosaur with an onion growing on its back. This bulb grows from a seed that is present on the back of an entire newborn Bulbasaur. When the bulb on Bulbasaur's back releases a rosebud, the Pokémon transforms into Ivysaur. The bud is hefty weighty, consequently the Ivysaur grows strong legs for itself. The final stage in the evolution of Bulbosaurus is the Venuasaurus. Ivysaur transforms into Venuasaur when the bud on its back blooms into a large flower.

Charmander

Charmander is a lizard-like Pokémon. A fire burns at the end of its tail. How clearly its flame burns can be judged by the mood and well-being of the Pokemon. Charmeleon is a further step in the evolution of Charmander. Charmeleon looks more hostile and is constantly looking for someone to fight. The final stage of Charmander's evolution is Cherizard. He has wings like a dragon. Cherizard can fly through the air and spew fire.

squirtle

Squirtle is a pokemon that looks like a water turtle. If Squirtle feels threatened, he hides in a strong shell and defends himself by shooting a jet of water. The next stage in the evolution of Squirtle is Wartortle. Wartortle also has a shell, but it is distinguished from Squirtle by the presence of a tail and ears. Eventually, Squirtle evolves from Wartortle into Blastoise, a war turtle with two cannons on its shell. Jets of water fly out of the cannons - so strong that they pierce steel armor.

Other Pokémon

There are many other types of Pokémon that look like giant caterpillars, butterflies, wasps, sparrows, rodents, snakes, foxes, bats, crabs, and more. Of course, it is impossible not to mention Pikachu, the famous mouse Pokemon. Pikachu wields a huge tail, with the support of which he can beat the enemy with electric discharges. Pikachu can evolve into a more advanced form - Raichu. Raichu has an even longer tail and can glow in the dark.

Encounters with phantoms and ghosts are one of the most ancient paranormal phenomena. Some people do not believe in their existence, others claim that they see phantoms continuously. Who is right, and is it really allowed to see a phantom?

Phantom (ghost, incorporeal substance, from French fantome) is an optical vision, a collective image of an object, both present and once existing. What do phantoms look like and why do they appear? It is believed that the phantom exists in the imagination, which generates its essence, and therefore it is allowed to represent it in different ways.

How to recognize phantoms?

A phantom differs from a living creature only in indirect signs, in particular, it moves silently and weightlessly, passing through real objects, has a static gaze, does not feel emotions, cold or heat, the floor does not creak under it and the grass does not bend. Phantoms behave in a special way: either copy the mobility of the original, or act independently from it. The first are called twins and exist as long as there is energy replenishment. No recharge - no phantom. When a phantom exists at the expense of sources of energy other than imagination, it is considered a ghost, often tied to the energy of a place, which for this reason is unrealistic for it to leave. A ghost is a phantom that does not depend on the original, while being able to exert a physical influence on all objects world, besides the person himself (say, to move things). The phantom can be seen only in semi-darkness (twilight) or at night, that is, in the absence of the rays of the sun, which distort the composition of the air on the molecular level.

Why do people see phantoms?

Usually the phantom falls into the field of peripheral vision, which sends a signal to the brain, which forms the entity in different ways. The manifestation of a certain image in the mind of a person can proceed in several ways, but more often than not, different people see a phantom, one that looks like an incorporeal and transparent formation that displays real beings, it dematerializes when it comes into contact with objects. This essence appears to them in the form of gray or with whitish segments of incorporeal clouds of a certain shape, outwardly resembling a foggy or soapy spatial part. Some eyewitnesses described phenomena when a phantom owned density and was ready to inflict damage, and disappeared only after the person was ready to inflict damage on him. According to the statements of people who have seen such a phantom, it looks absolutely material and resembles an ordinary daily dressed person. More often than others, people with visual impairments saw phantoms. In other officially recorded cases, their physical appearance occurred spontaneously, against the will of a person, which, as usual, indicates a tense atmosphere in life or is a harbinger of an unfavorable event. Phantoms can manifest themselves not only in human, but also in any other form. So, in Syria, where hostilities were taking place, soldiers saw phantoms of service dogs that died during mine clearance.

Note!
Dieffenbachia is one of the most poisonous plants in the aroid family. It is not recommended to start it in a house with small children. Juice from an accidentally broken leaf can be very dangerous. Often, budgerigars become victims of dieffenbachia. Cats and dogs, as usual, subconsciously shun her, but still try not to risk it.

Useful advice
If, after cutting a long trunk into slices, you get confused where they are on the bottom and where are the tops, easily spread them horizontally on the damp soil. Sleeping kidneys on the trunk must look up.

Among the inhabitants of apartment window sills and winter gardens, plants with decorative leaves are quite popular.

Most often, unpretentious dieffenbachia is grown at home, which easily fits into any interior due to the unusual color of large leaves.

Her homeland is tropical rainforests, but she also feels great indoors and thanks her bright beauty for minimal care.

Very little time will pass, and a modest sprout in a small pot, bought in a store, can turn into a large tree with giant variegated leaves. It will not take too much effort for this, because this plant is one of the most unpretentious exotics.

There is an opinion that it brings misfortune and upsets the privacy of those who live in it. Moreover: they say that supposedly this tree is even capable of pushing for adultery, leading to childlessness and even poisoning. What of all this are myths and what is true, let's try to figure it out.

There is no reliable evidence that due to the presence of a “problem plant” in the dwelling, families broke up or someone was left alone without meeting his only happy love.

True, sometimes there are quarrels due to the fact that one of the family members does not like the location of Dieffenbachia. But this rather indicates the unwillingness of the quarreling to yield to each other, rather than the negative aura of an innocent plant.

By the way, I have a couple I know, whose bedroom has been decorated by a variegated guest from the tropics for several years now, but peace and grace reign in the family relations of this couple. But dieffenbachia has to be hidden behind a curtain from a domestic cat and a parrot, since its milky juice is poisonous and can cause serious swelling of the mucosa.

There are even stories that once upon a time slaves were forced to bite the trunk of this plant as punishment, which immediately caused swelling of the larynx and threatened with suffocation, blindness and other serious health problems. “Silent rod” - this is exactly what, according to legend, the slaves called Dieffenbachia and were afraid of her more than a real whip.

Of course, it is not as dangerous as they say about it, but it brings considerable benefits, not only delighting the eye with its tropical beauty, but also perfectly cleaning the room from gas pollution. In addition, its juice does not cause allergies in everyone you meet. But still, it is better to cut it with rubber gloves and then wash them thoroughly.

The communication of babies and pets with this variegated plant must be completely excluded - you should not tempt fate and check whether Dieffenbachia will harm them or not.

Like any plant of tropical origin, this variegated beauty especially loves moisture. In order for it to grow and bush well (although not all species are capable of the latter), it is necessary to arrange a summer shower for it at least once a day using a spray gun.

In winter, when the humidity in the room is approximately zero, you will have to spray it more often. Water for "bathing" should be warm and soft. The ideal option is melt or rain water, heated in the sun.

• Dieffenbachia should be watered with the same water. This must be done with enviable regularity, preventing the soil from drying out in a pot.


• The optimal level of soil moisture and air around the plant can be created by placing the pot in a tray with gravel or fine expanded clay. This, of course, will not replace full-fledged watering, but it will help to minimize the hassle about this. If the “pillow” of pebbles is moistened from time to time, the plant will begin to grow by leaps and bounds and delight with its exotic beauty.

Like other variegated plants, our tropical beauty loves the light. With its deficiency, the leaves lose their decorative effect and become dull green. But its excess can leave severe burns on the sheet plates. It is best to place dieffenbachia closer to a source of diffused light.

Dieffenbachia: reproduction

Even with the most careful care, dieffenbachia, growing up, will begin to get rid of the lower leaves, exposing its trunk. This process is natural and irreversible, but it can be used for good.

When the plant in its appearance becomes like a broad-leaved panicle, its top must be cut off.

Using a well-sharpened pruner or knife, we separate the upper leafy part. We leave the separated part for several hours so that the place of the cut is weathered. Such a simple technique will prevent rotting of the trunk.

• Next, we place it in a planting container, almost to the brim filled with coarse-grained sand or a sand-peat mixture (1: 1), without forgetting to dip the cut point in the Kornevin growth stimulator solution before that.
• Having deepened the seedling well (by 3-4 internodes), squeezing the wet substrate around the stem, cover it with polyethylene and send it to a warm place with diffused lighting. If you put it under the direct rays of the sun, the seedling will wither very quickly.

As the earth mixture dries out in a pot, it needs to be moistened, removing the coating for a while. When young leaves begin to grow from the growth point, polyethylene can be completely removed - this means that the plant has taken root and it no longer needs greenhouse conditions.

You can root the apical (or lateral, emerging from a bud on the trunk) cutting and parts of the trunk directly in the water, and when roots appear on them, dig them in and hide them under the jar.

In this case, you need to dilute a little powdered charcoal for disinfection and place the stem in this solution. Water should be changed as it becomes cloudy and the container with the handle should be kept warm.

Roots should appear in 2-3 weeks.

Dieffenbachia can also be propagated by basal processes that have formed their own roots. In order for the process of separation from the mother tree to be painless, you first need to generously water the plant, and when the earth in the pot is thoroughly soaked, its contents should be removed with a garden spatula.

With sufficient soil moisture, the roots of plants - the mother and the "children" - will separate from each other almost painlessly. We plant young plants in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm.

Dieffenbachia is really unpretentious, but can not stand stagnant water in the bottom of the pot. To prevent this from happening, you need to take care in advance by properly planting it in a pot.

1. At the bottom of the planting container we pour a drainage layer 2-4 cm thick, depending on the size of the pot.
2. Next - some sand.
3. Then - a little special light mixture, consisting of turf, leafy soil, peat and sand (in a ratio of 4: 1: 1: 1).

Completely old soil from the roots is not necessary at all. It will be enough just to carefully pull the plant out of the old pot (in a moistened form, an earthen ball will easily come out of it, like a baby bee) and transfer it.

It will be necessary to pick off only the upper layers of the former soil, not entangled with roots. The void between the walls of the transplant pot and the earthen clod, as well as the space above, we will fill with freshly prepared soil. Before that, it will need to be fried in the oven for disinfection.

The last stage of transplantation is abundant watering with settled water at room temperature.

Fertilizer (top dressing)

The flowers of our tropical beauty are not of aesthetic value, so it is not necessary to make her bloom, which simplifies our task. But we still have to take care of feeding the plant, since the growth rate of dieffenbachia and the beauty of its spotty leaves depend on it.

• An ideal and quite economical option for increasing the vital energy of a plant is to feed it with an infusion of organic matter. It can be fresh cow litter, which will have to be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.
• You can also use a complex fertilizer on a mineral basis. The solution is prepared according to the scheme indicated on the bottle (package).

Watering (or spraying) plants with liquid fertilizer in the warm season should be 3-4 times a week, and in winter - half as often.

The problem of yellowing Dieffenbachia leaves can be various factors.

dry air

Most often this happens when the air around the plants is too dry.

Spraying will help solve the problem. But do not forget about the sense of proportion, because if the plant is too waterlogged, the effect can be exactly the same.

Draft or cold air

In a plant that stands in a draft or periodically freezes, the tips of the leaf can also dry.

We solve the problem simply by rearranging the plant to a more suitable place.

Pests

You need to carefully examine the leaf plates. If the problem is caused by the appearance of insects, you will have to spray them with insecticide, and your favorite plant will be saved. More information about insecticides is described in the links that I gave above.

To turn your house or apartment into a winter garden, it is not at all necessary to spend all your savings on buying expensive exotic plants. A modest but spectacular dieffenbachia grows very quickly at home, of course, if you know how to care for it. Warm water, diffused light, temperature in the range of 17-20 degrees and periodic bathing under running water - that's what this beauty needs.

I wish you to make friends with this flower for real, only then it will make your house look like a corner of pristine nature!

ymadam.ru

Dieffenbachia - reproduction

Question: Everyone easily rooted Dieffenbachia cuttings in water, but mine sheds leaves and rots?

natalie: In order for Dieffenbachia to take root safely in water and not rot (loss of leaves is quite acceptable), then you need to take clean water, not boiled, but preferably filtered, add 4-5 tablets of activated carbon to half a liter, do not keep a jar of water in the light (you can wrap in a napkin) and periodically change the water to fresh. You can also put on rooting in a weak solution of fertilizer. Any fertilizer for decorative leafy plants, taken at a dose of 4 times less than recommended for root dressing.

If decay (the bottom of the cutting becomes slimy and darkens) has begun, then you can cut off the damaged part of the stem to a healthy tissue, rinse the cutting in running water, put it in fresh water, to which add a few drops of phytosporin. After 2-3 days, replace the water with fresh water, add phytosporin again, but already 2 times less. If there is no phytosporin, add ground cinnamon on the tip of a knife.

If dieffenbachia is rooted in the ground, then it should not be covered with a bag or a jar, but the cutting should be sprayed 2 times a day. And the soil should only be kept slightly moist. Of course, the soil must be sterilized (withstand about 3 minutes in the microwave), and the cut of the cutting is sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Dieffenbachia care - in the section of the Encyclopedia of indoor plants.

Croky: A possible reason for the trunk to rot in water is that the cut touches the bottom of the can. Try to somehow attach it so that the cut hangs in the water. You can also sprinkle the slices with charcoal. The leaves, by the way, have the right to turn yellow and fall off in the process, do not be afraid. And cuttings from the trunk need 2-3 rings.

aie13: I root exclusively in water: a 3-liter jar of boiled water + 5 activated charcoal tablets, I wrap the jar with a black garbage bag (so that it is dark in the jar). The crown in the cut off state is usually about a meter long, I dry the cut for 2-3 hours and put it in a jar, it was very correctly noted earlier that the cut should not touch the bottom - otherwise rotting is inevitable at 50%. After 3-4 weeks, small roots appear - now into the ground. Inevitably I'm losing a few lower leaves.

Question: I'm trying to root a dieffenbachia cutting, but nothing comes of it!

Reproduction of Dieffenbachia - in the section Popular indoor plants

polin: When rooting cuttings, Dieffenbachia noticed an interesting trend - if the cutting is apical, then the roots appear longer than if the cutting is cut from the middle of the trunk (without a top). Maybe with two tops, the rooting process is naturally delayed?

Croky: Indeed, the higher up the trunk, the longer the roots grow. In basal sections, roots may appear in a week. Therefore, it makes little sense to compare the rate of appearance of roots in different people. Even on thin, recently grown shoots, roots will also appear faster than on old thick ones. But in the second, large leaves will go faster later.

Lelya: My stump (leaves dropped) has been sitting in the water for about 20 days, and only now a tubercle and a hint of a new leaf have appeared.

Elena: Dieffenbachia rooted twice. The first time in the ground under the jar, the second - in water with activated carbon. The second way is much easier, my dieffenbachia took root in two weeks.

Dieffenbachia after pruning

Question: My Dieffenbachia's trunk started to show. It's not very pretty. I want to plant a second one in this pot. Tell me, if I cut off the top of the head and root it in water, what will happen to the mother plant. How will dieffenbachia grow without a crown?

polin: Without the top - will let side shoots. Only and everything. I chop my healthy one like for firewood every 2 years.

Alla Viktorovna: I also cut mine in half, the top rooted in the water, and the stump gave a new shoot from the upper kidney in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe “jumper” on the trunk. Now I have two Dieffenbachia!

Dieffenbachia leaves dry

Question: The other day I bought Dieffenbachia, and when I brought it home, I found a few black spots on the leaves. They increase in size.

natalie: Your dieffenbachia leaves do not turn yellow, but dry, acquiring a dark, blackish color. This is a sign of waterlogging - it was systematically flooded in the store. It is necessary not only to transplant into a new soil, but also to observe the irrigation regime. And also apply fungicides from root rot, ask the store for drugs that help against late blight, you can pour a solution of phytosporin.

• If the leaves of Dieffenbachia dry and become light, parchment-like in color, the reason is overdrying or too dry (and hot) air.

  Dieffenbachia loves when the humidity is about 50-60%. If spraying 2-3 times a day does not help, you need to purchase a humidifier or cover the batteries with damp terry towels.

Question: Why do the ends of the leaves of dieffenbachia dry?

natalie: In such cases, it is customary to sin immediately on the dry air in the room. Indeed, if the room is very hot and dry, the ends of the Dieffenbachia leaves can dry, but if the plant is not near the heating system, then dry air is not always the cause, or not the only reason for dry tips and edges of the leaves. More often, the fault is the overdrying of an earthen coma, lack of nutrition, especially in large specimens that have not been transplanted for several years, as well as pests - ticks or thrips, which are quite difficult to notice on variegated leaves.

Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow

Question: In dieffenbachia, the leaves began to turn yellow sharply, visual inspection did not show pests, what could be the reason?

Alexander: If the leaves turn yellow sharply, this is an overflow. And the roots begin to rot. It is necessary to ventilate them, loosen the earth and not water it.

ksu: Check the soil at a depth of about 2-2.5 cm deep in the pot. If it has not been watered for several days, and the earth is wet (not just wet, but wet) - overflow. It is better to pull out quickly from the pot, and check the roots. They're probably rotting. Cut off the rotten ones, sprinkle the cuts with charcoal (or activated), although I throw out everything that is left of the root system in charcoal for disinfection. You can even before the "dumping", after trimming in the fungicide solution, hold. Plant in slightly damp soil and do not water for several days, it is better to spray. Then water a little, but more often.

natalie: If the yellowing of the leaves with a lemon color (no browning, rather a blanching of the color), a possible cause is a spider mite. It is very difficult to notice when it is in small quantities. A characteristic feature is yellowing without definite boundaries - blurry fuzzy spots. Try looking for pests on the underside of the still green leaves closest to the yellowed ones. Symptoms - see photo mites.

What pot do dieffenbachia need

Question: Does Dieffenbachia like a spacious pot or a cramped one?

Croky: It grows so fast, a spacious pot becomes cramped very quickly. Choose spacious - the free space of the earth can be about two to three times more than the root ball. Do not forget that dieffenbachia is a powerful plant and the pot must be stable. But if you immediately take a very large pot (4-5 times more places than the root ball), then the risk of waterlogging increases. Therefore, in a large pot, be careful with watering, or make a higher layer of drainage.

What kind of land does dieffenbachia need

Question: what kind of land does Dieffenbachia need?

Natali: The soil needs to be porous and nutritious, with a good proportion of humus. Therefore, shop soils in their pure form are not suitable (they consist of fibrous peat seasoned with mineral fertilizers). Therefore, it is better to compose the soil from individual components:

• 3 parts leaf humus, 1 part soddy soil, 1 part small pebbles or zeolite granules, 1 part compost
• 2 parts of garden soil from under vegetables, under which organic matter was introduced (cucumber tomatoes), 1 part of sod land, 1 part of coconut substrate (briquettes or chips).

Read about where to get sod or leafy soil: About soil and plant transplantation, as well as Soil for plants

It is very important to sterilize the soil before transplanting dieffenbachia, especially if you bring it from the garden. If the volume of the earth is small, you can steam it in the oven on a baking sheet. If the volume is large (a bucket or more), then you can spill it with a very large amount of boiling water. I do this: I put a little less than a bucket of earth into an old pillowcase, put it in a bucket of 15 liters and pour boiling water (it takes about 6-7 liters). I leave it for 30-40 minutes, take it out and hang it up so that the water is glass for about a day. Then I lay it out on a film to dry. Boiling water does not completely sterilize the soil (this requires boiling), but it kills pests, larvae and eggs.

After planting dieffenbachia, I water it several times with humic preparations, or use Baikal EM-1.

dieffenbachia stretched out

Question: My dieffenbachia has a long trunk and something very long petioles, what could it be connected with? I can't wait to cut it, only now it's winter...

Gray: They are elongated because she clearly lacks lighting! Now is not the best time of the year for indoor plants. It's a bit dark. Either move closer to the window, or arrange additional lighting. Hang an ordinary fluorescent lamp and light up in the evening.

Dieffenbachia transplant

For example, I do this by lighting up many plants until 24 pm. If you move closer to the window, then pay attention to the radiators. Dieffenbachia do not like dry air, as well as all other plants. So, it is necessary to humidify the air in the room in order to increase the humidity! Don't cut now! Wait until spring, when all plants begin their growing season. A transplant is also desirable in the spring. Do not put additional stress on the plant.

Question: What to do, the trunk is exposed?

natalie: Dieffenbachia is characterized by a gradual exposure of the trunk from below, but this is normal if it grows well and gives new leaves. However, if the new leaves are smaller than the old ones, and the petioles are too long, then the plant clearly does not have enough light.

Shlomo: Yellowing of the lower leaves may be normal if the plant is large and there are many healthy leaves, but this may be the result of a draft or lack of light. It is possible to highlight dieffenbachia, it develops well even with the complete replacement of sunlight with artificial light, and it has a positive attitude towards lengthening daylight hours.

Dieffenbachia bloom

Question: Dieffenbachia grew just fine, then began to bloom. I heard that flowers need to be removed?

polin: If dieffenbachia begins to bloom and you want to see flowering, then she just needs enhanced feeding. I have a bush flower. All "oppression" was expressed in one sheet of smaller than usual size and nothing more. You just need a mandatory weekly top dressing with mineral and organic fertilizers during the flowering period and after it for at least a month. Then you can switch to the normal feeding mode.

If we proceed from the fact that when we need to support the foliage, then we feed where there is more nitrogen, i.e. as usual "for decorative foliage." But, since it still blooms, I did one top dressing “for decorative blooming”, where there is more potassium and phosphorus.

ege-kras.ru

It is known that dieffenbachia does not bush on its own, but stretches in height.

To give it the shape of a bush, you have to do pruning and transplanting quite often.

But before transplanting dieffenbachia, you must first understand the reasons why this procedure may be required:

• the owner of the flower simply wants to improve its appearance;
• the size of the plant does not correspond to the volume of the pot in which it is located.

If delayed with a transplant, the flower may begin to hurt and lose its leaves. Finding out when it's time for this procedure is very simple. To do this, it is enough to monitor the behavior of the plant.

Transfer Signals

• Decreased growth rate.
• Quick drying of the soil in the pot after watering.
• Reducing the size of new leaves.

If a plant whose development is accompanied by similar symptoms is removed from the pot, then a root that has grown over the entire space can be found.
Before landing, you need to prepare:

• new pot;
• materials for the drainage system;
• water for irrigation.

The pot should be 2-3 cm larger than the old container.

Before placing a flower in a new place, you should carefully examine the state of its root system.

Often, when growing in a limited space, the roots intertwine with each other, as a result of which some root processes die off.

Therefore, when transplanting a plant, it is necessary to carefully clean the root of adhering soil and remove dead root processes. Cropped areas must be treated with fungicide and charcoal.

Thus, the root of the plant will be protected from further destruction. For transplanting, it is recommended to use neutral soil and new drainage. Young plants should preferably be transplanted once a year.

When is the best time to transplant?

Dieffenbachia transplantation at home is carried out at the end of winter or early spring. Otherwise, the plant may not take root. In the summer, transplants are performed only when absolutely necessary.

The flower must be carefully removed from the old pot and placed in a new place. Such an approach will allow him to quickly and painlessly get used to new conditions.

You need to fill the free space in a large pot with previously prepared soil. Required for transplantation prepare fresh drainage.

How to transplant dieffenbachia with a long trunk?

Sometimes it becomes necessary to transplant a plant with a long stem. As a result, its appearance becomes unaesthetic. This problem is easily solved by cutting.

When working with the trunk of an adult plant, the following tools and materials will be required:

• rubber gloves;
• alcohol;
• warm water or soapy water.

Experts do not recommend cutting a plant whose trunk has not reached 3-4 cm in diameter. To encourage Dieffenbachia to bush, the easiest way is to cut off the top. In this case, the dormant lateral buds will come to life and the flower will grow in breadth.

The top of the flower can also be planted near the cut stump, resulting in a beautiful and lush bush. Subsequently, the top will take root and it will be possible to plant it in a separate pot.

To reduce the amount of juice released when the stem is cut, you can stop watering the plant for a few days before cutting. If the trunk is too strong and cannot be cut with a regular knife, it is worth trying to use a wood saw.

Before cutting the instrument must be disinfected with alcohol. At the end of the procedure, the working equipment should be washed to remove the remnants of poisonous juice.

This video shows how to transplant a large dieffenbachia flower into a self-watering pot. In this case, coconut substrate is used:

It is convenient to combine a flower transplant with its reproduction. Dieffenbachia reproduces in the following ways:

• seed;
• air cuttings;
• stem cuttings;

During pruning, part of the removed stem is easy to use for planting a new plant. A long removed stem can be cut into several parts and planted in separate containers with prepared soil.

Rejuvenation of the old Dieffenbachia: transplant and circumcision

If the plant has acquired an unattractive shape, you can try to rejuvenate it. For transplanting and rejuvenating a flower, you will need the following materials:

• soft soil;
• crushed moss;
• peat mass;
• cleaned sand.

At the beginning of work, carefully cut the stem of the plant 3-5 cm above the flower node. It is better to do this at a right angle so that the stem stump is even. The cut is processed with activated carbon. You can use a paper towel to dry it.

The cut part of the plant should be covered with a glass jar or a piece of cellophane. It will not be superfluous to add a small amount of charcoal to the soil.

For a flower, you need to choose slightly acidic soil with the addition of humus.

If the land was bought in a store, you need to carefully study its composition.

Sometimes, to transplant a plant into the ground, add the earth collected at the site of growth of coniferous trees.

A flower should be transplanted only in loosened soil. It is desirable to add peat and river sand to the new land.

A prerequisite for transplanting Dieffenbachia is the sterilization of the soil.

After planting, the plant requires special care aimed at acclimatizing as soon as possible in a new place. During the period until young leaves have grown, the flower should be watered with small portions of purified water.

To speed up the growth of new shoots, you can stop watering for a few days. When new shoots begin to grow actively, you should feed the plant a little. But it is recommended to carry out this procedure in the autumn-winter period no more than once a month, in the summer - once every two weeks.

If the plant has white leaves, you should avoid top dressing, which contains nitrogen in its composition. Otherwise, they will lose their whiteness. You should also refrain from using organic fertilizers, which can cause white leaves to turn green.

It is very important to prevent direct sunlight from hitting the flower. The temperature in the room during transplantation and cutting Dieffenbachia should be at least 17 degrees.

After a few months, if the transplant and pruning procedure is carried out correctly, a beautiful plant with wide leaves will grow.

prozvety.ru

General information

Dieffenbachia is a perennial plant with a massive stem and large leaves with various types of colors. Blooms only if all conditions of care are met; a flower is an ear covered with a veil.

The plant is poisonous, consider this fact when placing a flower in the house. Make sure that children and animals cannot reach it.

Species and varieties

The most popular flower varieties are and ( painted ). These plants have large stems and rounded green leaves adorned with white patterns.

Outwardly, these varieties are quite similar, but it grows much higher than its relative.

Most varieties are bred from spotted dieffenbachia. The most common varieties are: Vesuvius , Camilla And compacta .

lovely this species is good because, in addition to its beautiful appearance, it is quite easy to grow at home.

Quite similar to Spotted, but differs in larger foliage and fewer veins on it.

large-leaved dieffenbachia only this species has leaves of the same color, without white patches.

Special in that its foliage is the largest among all members of the genus. The size of its sheet reaches 70 cm in length.

dieffenbachia home care

In terms of care, dieffenbachia is a rather problematic plant. Direct sunlight should not be allowed to fall on the leaves of the plant, but, nevertheless, the lighting must be sufficient, otherwise the patterns on the foliage will begin to disappear. Dieffenbachia Bauman has completely green foliage, so it needs less light than other species.

Dieffenbachia is quite sensitive to temperature changes and drafts. In spring and summer, the air temperature should be around 23°C, and in winter the column should not be allowed to fall below 16°C, but it is best to keep the heat around 20°C.

dieffenbachia watering

Dieffenbachia can only be watered with settled soft water, preferably rainwater. All spring and summer, the soil in the pot should be slightly moist.

In the autumn-winter period, watering is reduced, allowing the top ball of soil to dry out. In order for the flower to develop normally, it is necessary to increase the humidity of the spraying air. You also need to wipe the foliage with a damp cloth every seven days.

Dieffenbachia fertilizer

The entire spring-summer period Dieffenbachia needs fertilizer. For varieties with completely green leaves, they use exclusively top dressing without lime, which is applied every 10 days and bred twice as much as indicated in the instructions.

Variegated varieties are best fed with mineral fertilizers, because with an excess of organic matter, their foliage loses its variegation. In this case, fertilizers should be applied once every 20 days.

Pruning bushy dieffenbachia

The loss of the lower leaves of dieffenbachia indicates its aging and the need for pruning. The top of the plant is cut off 2 cm below the node, the milk from the cut is wiped off and treated with crushed charcoal.

This procedure will give rise to young shoots that form on the remaining stem.

Dieffenbachia transplant at home

When filling the rhizome of the pot, dieffenbachia must be transplanted. This is best done in the spring, but if the flower grows too fast, then an additional summer transplant may be required, which should be done in a transshipment way so as not to disturb the roots too much.

The pot should be taken a little more than the previous one, be sure to add drainage. Dieffenbachia needs a soil of low acidity, which can be made from leafy soil, peat, sphagnum and sand (4:2:2:1). It will also be good to mix crushed coal into the soil.

Dieffenbachia reproduction at home

Dieffenbachia can be propagated by cuttings, air layering and seed method, but the latter, due to its complexity, is used only by breeders.

Propagation of diffebihia by apical cuttings is the method that is used most often, it is also resorted to when the plant is old or the roots rot.

The top of the flower must be cut off and, after wiping the juice that has come out, place it in water or in a mixture of sand and peat. The stalk is hidden from direct light and periodically sprayed, the temperature is maintained at about 22 ° C. After rooting, a transplant is performed into another container.

Dieffenbachia propagation by cuttings

The remaining stem of the plant is also used for propagation.

The shoot is cut off, leaving only 10 cm. The cut off part is divided into pieces, so that each has a knot. Next, the material is dried for a couple of days and placed on a raw mixture of peat and sand with a kidney to the top. The container is covered with oilcloth and left at a temperature close to 24 ° C. After rooting, a transplant is performed.

A stem stump left in a pot can also be used for propagation. Continue watering it and after a while a young shoot will appear from the kidney. When a pair of leaves forms on it, they can be cut off and rooted.

Dieffenbachia reproduction by air layering

Another way to propagate dieffenbachia is the use of air layering. You just need to cut the shoot and wrap this area with damp moss, and on top with a film. When the roots appear, the layering is cut off and planted in a new pot.

Bush types of dieffenbachia can be propagated by dividing the bush, which is performed during transplantation.

Diseases and pests

Due to improper care or the appearance of pests with dieffenbachia, a number of problems can happen.

• If the fall of the lower leaves passes very quickly , then either the roots have filled the entire pot, or you are watering the plant irregularly.
• Causes of drying of the tips of the leaves can be different: temperature changes, dry air, spraying in the dark, acidification of the soil.
• If the Dieffenbachia leaf turns pale , then most often this is a sign of a lack of light. Excess nitrogen in the soil and a lack of phosphorus and potassium can also serve as this.
• When growing dieffenbachia in too alkaline soil, it foliage begins to shrink and deform .
• Plant rotting is associated with low temperatures and stagnant water in the soil. . Try to keep the substrate damp, but not wet. All rotten parts of the flower must be cut off and powdered with charcoal. If the lesion is too large, then it is better to root the top and destroy the bottom of the plant.
• If the lower leaves of dieffenbachia curl up and turn yellow which means she's dying.
• Foliage blanching associated with excess light and placement in direct sunlight.
• If your plant has brown spots on the edges of the leaves , then this is most likely due to cold or insufficient watering.
• Sometimes droplets appear on the leaves of dieffenbachia , do not be alarmed - "crying" is a common occurrence for this flower.
• The thinning and inability of the stem to withstand the whole plant indicates its aging. . In this case, it is worth resorting to rejuvenation by cuttings.

chvetochki.ru

Dieffenbachia has become a very popular indoor plant in our time, and it is grown not only in the house, but also in the office. The plant has gained popularity, not only because of its rather spectacular appearance, but also because dieffenbachia has the ability to purify the air from formaldehyde harmful to our body.

The variegated forms of this plant are very decorative and sometimes it seems that it is the plant that fills the room with light. If you decide to have such a plant in your home, do not forget that it came to us from the humid tropics of South America, and the main conditions for growing this plant are heat, light and moisture.

Lighting and location in the house

Since the plant came to us from hot countries with a long daylight hours, it needs good lighting, but you should not put it in direct sunlight, as they are detrimental to large and succulent Dieffenbachia leaves.

The ideal lighting for growing a plant is bright diffused light, especially for variegated forms. Plants with solid green leaves can do without such bright light, and thrive in partial shade. But you should not completely remove green-leaved forms from the light, the plant may lose its decorative appearance, the leaves will begin to shrink, and the trunk will stretch.

For growing Dieffenbachia, any window sill is suitable, with the exception of the southern one.

Watering mode

The plant needs a sufficient amount of moisture during the period of active growth, such a period, as a rule, lasts from early spring until the onset of autumn. During active growth, do not allow the soil to dry out. But stagnant water or overflow is harmful for the plant; with an excess amount of moisture, the plant can shed some of the leaves. To avoid overflow and stagnation of water in the pot, it is recommended to make drainage holes and put a good layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot when planting or transplanting.

In winter, a moderate watering regime should be introduced, the plant should be watered only after the topsoil has dried.

For irrigation use well-settled water at room temperature.

Air humidity

Dieffenbachia is a plant from the tropics and does not like dry air, so on hot days or the heating season, it needs regular spraying. You can create moist air around the plant by placing bowls of water near it or using a humidifier.

It is also advisable to wipe the large leaves of the plant daily with a damp cloth. If the plant is small, then you can give it a warm shower periodically, but before the shower, do not forget to cover the soil in the pot with cellophane.

Temperature regime

The plant is very thermophilic and does not tolerate drafts, especially for cold air in winter. Sudden changes in temperature are also detrimental to Dieffenbachia; at best, it will shed its leaves.

During the period of active growth, in spring and summer, the air temperature from 21 to 26⁰С is considered ideal, while maintaining this temperature regime, the plant feels great. In winter, the temperature regime can be slightly lowered, the air temperature from 19 to 22⁰С will be sufficient.

You should not allow the temperature to drop below 15⁰С, otherwise, it will affect the appearance and condition of the plant, it can start to hurt and wither

The soil

Dieffenbachia prefers neutral, loose, water- and breathable soils; it does not tolerate calcareous soils. The ideal substrate is considered to be of the following composition: 2 parts of leafy soil, 6 parts of soddy soil, 2 parts of peat soil or peat, 2 parts of sand and 1 part of charcoal. When planting or transplanting a plant, be sure to make drainage holes in the pot and lay out a drainage layer of at least 3 cm.

Top dressings and fertilizers

In the period from March to September, when the plant is actively growing, it needs regular top dressing. It is better to organize a certain regimen, so it will be easier for you, and the plant will receive exactly as many nutrients as it needs.

The main thing is to choose the right complex fertilizer, give preference to a nitrogen-containing organic or mineral fertilizer, the main thing is that lime is not present in the fertilizer, dieffenbachia cannot tolerate it. But you also need to be careful with nitrogen, in case of its excess, variegated forms can lose their variegated color and become monochromatic green.

When using a ready-made mixture of top dressing, plants are produced as follows: the solution must be diluted as indicated in the instructions, but only half the rate should be used for top dressing. Dieffenbachia should be fertilized regularly once every 10 days.

Dieffenbachia reproduction

When growing this plant, the question often arises: how can Dieffenbachia be propagated?

Dieffenbachia is propagated by apical cuttings or cuttings prepared from parts of the stem. The plant is practically not propagated by seeds due to the fact that with such reproduction, the variegation of leaves can be lost in variegated forms, and the process is rather troublesome.

Dieffenbachia propagation by cuttings

Quite often, the plant is propagated by apical cuttings that remain after pruning the plant. Also, cuttings can be prepared from the middle parts of an adult stem.

The principle of rooting for apical and middle cuttings is the same; they can be rooted in two ways in a special substrate or in water.

Rooting cuttings in the substrate

For such germination, a mixture of sand and peat, taken in a 1: 1 ratio, should be prepared in advance. The substrate is poured into a seed box and moderately watered, the soil should be moist, not wet.

From the cuttings of the trunk, parts of the trunk with a length of 10 to 15 cm should be selected. The lower part of the cuttings is lowered into the Kornevin solution, or another root stimulant, for 15-30 minutes. Then the cuttings are immersed in the substrate for about 13-half of the length. After that, for good rooting over the cuttings, you need to create greenhouse conditions. To do this, each cutting can be covered with a glass jar or the entire seating box can be placed in a plastic bag and tied.

The greenhouse should be placed in a warm sunny place, but so that direct sunlight does not fall on the cuttings. As necessary, the cuttings are watered by adding any root-forming stimulant to the water for irrigation. The ambient temperature during the germination of cuttings should be in the range from 21 to 23 ° C. It is worth noting that the rooting of cuttings can take quite a long time, in some cases up to six months.

Sprouting cuttings in water

Germination of cuttings in water is not much different from germination in the ground. The cuttings should be cut from 10 to 15 cm long. After cutting, they are placed in a container filled with a weak solution of a root-stimulating substance. The cuttings are immersed in the solution for at least 13 lengths.

After some time, roots will appear on the tips of the cuttings, when the roots grow to a length of 3-4 cm, the cuttings can be planted in the ground. After planting, the cuttings need to be watered, and further care for them is no different from caring for an adult plant.

Dieffenbachia: transplant

The root system of dieffenbachia is quite powerful and therefore the plant needs an annual transplant, especially at a young age. Transplantation is usually done in the spring, by transferring from a smaller pot to a larger one, trying not to damage the earthen clod. For transplanting, a very large pot should not be taken immediately, as this can inhibit the growth of the aerial part of the plant.

When transplanting, do not forget to take care of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, and also pour a layer of drainage at least 3 cm high.

To transplant, carefully remove the plant from the pot, inspect the roots, not disturbing the earthen ball too much, if you notice damaged places, they should be removed, and sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal.

Precautions should be taken when pruning this plant, as the sap of the plant is poisonous and can cause skin irritation. Put on gloves and take a sharp knife, and in fact, you can start trimming. You can cut the trunk as you want, the plant very quickly restores its usual growth rate. The place of the cut must be blotted with a napkin and sprinkled with crushed charcoal. The cut parts can be used as cuttings.published econet.ru

P.S. And remember, just by changing your consumption, we are changing the world together! © econet

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Dieffenbachia - description

Dieffenbachia is an evergreen plant from the Aroid family. It grows in the tropical regions of America.

Grow dieffenbachia because of the decorative leaves. Its leaves are large, mostly variegated green, but there are also white, yellowish or plain green. The trunk is straight and thick.

There are about 40 varieties of this plant, in which the leaves differ in variegation and pattern color. In height, most species grow up to two meters. Dwarf varieties do not exceed more than 40 cm.

A young plant blooms rarely, but as it ages, it begins to bloom more often. The flowers are inconspicuous, cob-shaped, with a slight odor. Under room conditions, the seeds do not ripen.

Most of all in home cultivation, dieffenbachia spotted is common, which has different varieties.

Varieties and varieties of the flower in the photo

Is dieffenbachia poisonous

There are many rumors about the toxicity of this plant. It's actually not that toxic. In one children's hospital there was a case that refutes rumors about the mortal danger of this plant for children.

The children ate all the dieffenbachia leaves they had growing there. However, not a single child was harmed. No stomach pains, no cramps or anything. All these terrifying stories about severe edema, blindness and dumbness I have not yet met in reality, only on the Internet.

But the milky juice of dieffenbachia can still irritate the mucous membrane, so it’s better not to do dubious experiments with it! Everyone's body is different, allergic reactions, burns on the skin are possible.

Safety regulations

• Do not touch the mucous membranes of the body (eyes, mouth) if the milky juice of dieffenbachia remains on the hands.
• All operations with this plant should be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies and burns.
• Animals and birds should not gnaw the stems and chew the leaves.
• Teach children about the poisonous sap of this plant and keep it out of reach of small children and animals.

Subject to these rules, Dieffenbachia is not only a safe, but even a useful plant. There is no need to eat its leaves, of course! They are a good air filter.

Dieffenbachia leaves contain phytoncides that disinfect the air. Broad leaves humidify the air and purify it from chemical compounds such as Formaldehyde, Xylene, Benzene.

Dieffenbachia is also a "rain indicator". Before rainy weather, sticky droplets appear on the leaves.

Dieffenbachia propagation methods at home

It will not be difficult to propagate Dieffenbachia even for those who are breeding a plant for the first time.

Dieffenbachia propagation methods:

• stem cuttings;
• tip;
• basal processes (daughter shoots);
• air outlets.

Dieffenbachia is propagated by cuttings when there is a long trunk without leaves. This is the easiest way to reproduce. Cuttings are rooted in water or in the substrate.

The top is basically not propagated, but the plant is rejuvenated if there is only one trunk. If there are several trunks, then one top can be left to grow, and the rest cut off for reproduction.

Dieffenbachia grows and develops very quickly, and at home, in low light, it stretches upwards. There are new varieties that have a compact size and a short stem. But most often grown ordinary spotted dieffenbachia, which requires frequent rejuvenation and transplantation.

If you want to update your dieffenbachia, then feel free to cut off the top and cut the remaining parts of the trunk for propagation. If you want a new stem to grow from the root, then you need to cut it so that a small stump with buds (3–5 cm) remains. Several new stems will come from the kidneys.

All parts of the cut dieffenbachia are easily rooted in water. As a result, instead of one plant, you get several!

It is best to propagate and replant dieffenbachia at the end of winter or early spring, at the end of the dormant time. But you can do it in the summer too.

Dieffenbachia reproduction - video

Plant propagation by cuttings with rooting in water

For propagation by cuttings, it is enough to have only one small cutting. Even a two-centimeter piece will give roots.

On the trunk of dieffenbachia there are small bumps - dormant buds, from which the trunk and leaves will then develop.

Three days before cuttings, do not water the plant!

• For water conditioning, purchase Methylene Blue from the pet store. This is a safe dye that is added even to eye drops. It will prevent cuttings from rotting. It is enough to slightly tint them with water.
• In order for the roots to germinate faster, add a root former to the water with cuttings: for each container on the tip of a knife. For example, Kornevin, Heteroauxin. When roots appear, the root former does not need to be added.
• For better growth of the root system and sprouts, add ascorbic acid with glucose: 1 tablet must be diluted per container.

What you need to prepare for cuttings:

1. disinfected sharp knife;
2. ground activated or charcoal - 1 tbsp. per liter of water;
3. methylene blue;
4. boiled water;
5. gloves;
6. glass (or plastic) jars for cuttings and tops.

Cuttings can be placed in water both upright and flat. If you are using large cuttings and tops, use glass jars to keep them from tipping over due to the weight of the plants.

Step-by-step process of cuttings and rooting in water

1. Let's prepare the water: dilute the coal in it and tint it a little with Methylene blue (to blue).
2. We put on gloves and cut off the top of Dieffenbachia (evenly or obliquely, it does not matter).
3. We cut off the remaining trunk, leaving a stump with kidneys from the root, and cut it into pieces (depending on how many processes you need).
4. We dry the top and cuttings for 3-5 hours and put them in water, which needs to be changed about 1-2 times a week, depending on how many cuttings you have in one container. As soon as the water becomes cloudy, you need to replace it with a new one (do not forget to add coal and methylene blue).
5. When roots appear, plant the cuttings and the top in the soil. Up to three plants can be planted in one pot.

Water for better root germination should be at least 18 degrees Celsius.

Pruning and rooting the top of dieffenbachia in water - video

Planting cuttings and tops with roots in the soil

Dieffenbachia requires loose soil with good drainage. This plant is very fond of water. The soil should always be moist, but not waterlogged. Therefore, it is necessary to make good drainage at the bottom of the pot.

What can be used as drainage:

• expanded clay;
• large perlite;
• brick pieces;
• pieces of ceramics;
• pebbles.

It is better not to use pieces of polystyrene, it dries out the soil too much.

If there are drainage holes in the pot, then the drainage can be covered with a layer of 1.5 cm. If there are no drainage holes, the drainage layer should be increased to 2.5 cm.

It is useful to add pieces of charcoal and vermiculite to the soil. You can add small fractions of the bark. Sprinkle the soil on top with a mixture of sand and ground charcoal (1: 1), covering with sphagnum to retain moisture in the soil.

• Soil composition N1: soil for dracaena or palm trees + 1/4 coconut fiber.
• Soil composition N2: universal soil or garden soil 2 parts + coniferous litter 1 part + clean sand 1 part.
• Soil composition N3: sod land 4 parts + leafy soil 1 part + peat soil 1 part + sand 1 part.

What you need to prepare for landing:

• pots for tops and cuttings;
• ready soil;
• drainage;
• some sand and crushed charcoal;
• sphagnum;
• warm water with potassium permanganate for watering a light pink color.

Landing step by step instructions

1. Pour drainage into the pot, fill it with soil on top.
2. We make a recess for each cutting and pour water tinted with potassium permanganate.
3. We plant cuttings in the holes, straightening the roots down, and cover with earth.
4. Top with a mixture of sand and ground coal and cover with sphagnum.
5. We put the pots in a slightly darkened warm place.

A "dark place" does not mean that the cuttings need darkness. They should not be exposed to direct sunlight and at first you need to protect them from overheating in the sun, but they need light!

Water the plants when the topsoil dries out. Until the cuttings develop a good root system, it is not necessary to spill the soil heavily to avoid waterlogging.

The top is planted in the same way.

Planting cuttings and tops of dieffenbachia - video

Caring for planted cuttings

Before the appearance of the first sprouts, there is no need to feed the cuttings. You can only spray them a little once a month with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth.

On sale there is a ready-made aerosol "Zelenit for decorative and deciduous plants."

Water the young dieffenbachia about 1-2 times a week. But it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil: it should be moist, but not wet. If water accumulates in the pan, be sure to drain it.

When the sprouts grow up (about 2-3 months after rooting), start feeding the plants and put them in a lighter place.

Dieffenbachia is fertilized from spring to winter once every two weeks with fertilizer for decorative leafy plants. Reduce the fertilizer concentration by 50%.

Dieffenbachia is not fertilized in winter.

The leaves must be wiped from dust and sprayed when the air is dry.

In order for the stem to grow thick, the plants need enough light. On cloudy and winter days, illuminate Dieffenbachia with lamps.

Once the trunk is formed, it will not be able to get thicker, so provide Dieffenbachia with enough light right away!

If Dieffenbachia has plain leaves, then it can be grown in partial shade. Variegated leaves need bright light. But in any case, you do not need to put Dieffenbachia in direct sunlight so that the leaves do not get burned.

Rooting cuttings in the substrate

The top and cuttings can be rooted in the substrate.

• Composition of the mixture: sand + ground charcoal + sphagnum 3:2:1.

Some moss can be left on top of the mixture.

For watering cuttings, use water with the addition of a root former and phytosporin.

• Composition of the solution: Root former (eg Kornevin) + Fitosporin. At the tip of a teaspoon of each of these preparations per liter of warm water.

Rooting schemes

1. Deepen the cuttings with a cut inside the mixture.
2. Lay the cuttings flat, deepening a little.
3. The top is deepened by 2–5 cm, attached to a support.

Step by step rooting cuttings in the substrate

1. We dry the cut cuttings or the top of Dieffenbachia for about an hour.
2. Slices are treated with an antiseptic (charcoal or brilliant green).
3. Pour a mixture of sand, coal and sphagnum into a low container.
4. Wet the mixture with water and stick the cuttings into it. The top can be planted in a deeper container and tied to a support.
5. Put plastic bottles on the cuttings, or in another way make it look like a greenhouse.
6. We put the cuttings in a shaded place and make sure that the substrate is always wet (you can lay the sphagnum on top).

Necessary conditions for cuttings:

• for better germination, a temperature of + 25–27 ° C is needed;
• greenhouses need to be ventilated every day for 2-3 minutes and check the condition of the cuttings and substrate;
• when roots and new shoots appear, plant the cuttings in the soil.

Rooting cuttings in the substrate lying down - video

How to propagate by air layering

Another way to propagate Dieffenbachia: by air layering.

1. An incision is made on the trunk with a sharp sterile knife, fixed with a sliver and wrapped around with wet moss.
2. It is necessary to check the moisture content of the moss 1-2 times a week and, if necessary, moisten it with a spray bottle. Kornevin can be added to the spraying water at the tip of a knife for half a liter of water.
3. When roots appear, the trunk is cut off and planted in the soil in the usual way.

Another method of propagation by air layering has a slightly different pattern. Instead of moss and cellophane, a kind of pot with a substrate from a light mixture is attached to the cut. For example, sphagnum + soil + perlite.

The pot is attached with sticks to the trunk.

As a pot, you can use peat or cut from a plastic bottle.

Transplanting and dividing a bush: how to plant cuttings correctly

The roots of dieffenbachia grow well and eventually fill the entire pot. If dieffenbachia has given several sprouts from the root, they can be separated from the mother plant and planted separately.

You need to get the plant and check if it is possible to separate the child bushes. This is usually done easily, and the roots are hardly damaged. If you can’t separate it with your hands, you can cut it off with a sharp disinfected knife. Try to do as little damage to the roots as possible!

The trunk of the spotted dieffenbachia grows quickly and can tilt the plant. In this regard, it is better to plant it in a heavy pot slightly larger than the size of the roots, so that there is somewhere to fill the soil. Excess roots can be trimmed.

When planting to the top of the pot, there should be a free space of 1.5–2 cm.

When a transplant is required:

• growth has stopped;
• new leaves grow small;
• the soil dries out very quickly;
• the plant has grown too much and needs updating.

Prepare for transplant:

• new soil;
• disinfected scissors;
• antiseptic (charcoal powder, turmeric or brilliant green);
• drainage to the bottom of the pot.

Dieffenbachia bush division - video

Transplant instructions and division of the bush

1. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot.
2. Take the plant out of the pot.
3. Check the roots and soil.
4. Separate the child sprouts from the main bush.
5. If necessary, free the roots of the mother plant from the old soil and remove all dark, dried and rotten roots. If the soil and roots are not diseased, then it is better not to release the soil from the roots.
6. Treat all sections with an antiseptic.
7. Try on the roots in a pot and pour the soil. Holding the dieffenbachia by the trunk, add the earth, tamping it down a little. The trunk can be deepened.
8. Pour a mixture of sand and charcoal on top and lay sphagnum on top of the mixture.
9. Water the plant a little and spray the leaves with warm water.
10. Plant the separated dieffenbachia sprouts in the same way.

The first month you need to keep the plants in a shady place, especially if you cut the roots. Next, put dieffenbachia in a more lit place.

Dieffenbachia transplant - video

dieffenbachia care

After all rooted and planted plants have taken root, they need proper care.

Dieffenbachia loves fresh air. In summer, it can be taken out to the loggia, but protected from cold drafts.

plant care table

Room dieffenbachia care - video

Today I want to introduce you to my tropical beauty - Dieffenbachia, whose homeland is South America. The plant attracts with the original coloring of lush foliage, unpretentiousness to growing conditions. True, there is one caveat - it does not bush or branch on its own, so there is a need for regular transplanting and pruning. Let's take a closer look at how to properly perform these procedures.

Dieffenbachia is an indoor flower, whose growth often reaches 1 m. It reaches this size quite quickly. Already after a year or two, the top of the plant can rest against the ceiling. The stem of the plant is thick, it is strewn with large, variegated ovoid foliage.

The plant is considered poisonous, so it is undesirable to keep it where there are animals and small children.

Pruning timing

Dieffenbachia is a flower that stretches up, but does not bush. To give it the appropriate shape, you need to prune the plant.

The first time you can cut Dieffenbachia when it reaches the age of 2-3 years. It is carried out when:

• stem bare from below;
• shaggy top from excess leaves;
• leaf drop and yellowing.

It is advisable to prune in winter, during the dormant period, although if urgently needed, this can be done at any other time.

In the future, radical pruning at the root is performed every 2-4 years. This allows you to grow several plants from the cut part.

Dieffenbachia pruning

An adult plant that is well rooted is subject to pruning. Before the procedure, you need to prepare:

• a sharp knife with fine teeth and alcohol for its processing;
• cotton pads;
• Activated carbon;
• glass container.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• a horizontal cut is made with a knife so that small buds in the amount of 2-5 pieces are present on the remaining part;
• alcohol is applied to a cotton pad and the cut is treated to avoid the appearance of mold and bacteria;
• the stump is covered with a container, it is periodically removed for ventilation.

Since the culture is poisonous, all manipulations are performed strictly with gloves! Wash your hands thoroughly after work!

If desired, a new flower can be grown from the cut part. To do this, it is dried during the day in the open air, then placed in water in which crushed activated carbon is dissolved.

After 2 weeks, you can find how the stalk started up the first roots. After their appearance, you need to root the plant by planting it in a container with soil. So pruning flows into the process of reproduction.

Necessity and timing of transplantation

There are several reasons for a flower transplant:

1. the need to improve its appearance;
2. the root system is cramped in a pot.

The transplant should be carried out on time, otherwise the flower will start to hurt and shed its leaves, and will slow down its growth. The signal is also small new foliage, as well as the rapid drying of the substrate after watering.

It is desirable to transplant the culture in the spring, before the stage of active vegetation. For young plants, the pot is changed annually.

Transfer

Before transplanting Dieffenbachia with a long stem, you need to prepare a new pot, which should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. You will also need new nutritious, loose soil and material for the drainage layer, for example, expanded clay.

Transplantation is carried out by the method of transshipment. First you need to carefully remove the plant from the old pot and carefully examine the roots. If necessary, remove:

• affected parts;
• damaged, dry shoots.

Having straightened the roots, the adhering earth is removed and the cuts are treated with a fungicide; crushed activated carbon is also suitable. This will protect the plant from the appearance of infection or viruses.

A drainage layer is poured into a new container, on top - a layer of earth. You can use both a special composition for fruit and deciduous crops, and self-prepared soil. It consists of river sand, hardwood, moss and peat. The finished mixture should have moderate acidity.

A plant is installed on top of the ground, the free space is filled with the remaining substrate, compacted, watered.

Care

After transplanting and pruning, the flower needs time to recover. At this time, he is provided with high-quality care, which allows the plant to quickly take root and stretch, acquiring new foliage.

Lighting and temperature

Culture needs good lighting without direct sunlight. The best option for placing a pot in the house is a place where light partial shade reigns. It can be southwest or southeast.

An important parameter is the air temperature in the room. It should be around 18-25 degrees Celsius. In such conditions, the flower will quickly restore its strength. In the summer, you can take it out to the balcony or to the garden.

Watering

Dieffenbachia needs regular watering, for this they use warm settled water. For the period of growth of new branches for several days, you need to abandon this procedure. During the dormant period, the frequency of watering is reduced.

It is important to monitor the condition of the soil, avoiding its waterlogging. This adversely affects the condition of the flower, it may die.

Air humidity

This parameter is very important for a flower, because it is a tropical culture. It is necessary regularly:

• carry out spraying from a spray bottle;
• carry out wet processing of foliage with a soft, damp material, not forgetting about safety measures.

top dressing

The plant needs good feeding, which is used as:

• organic fertilizers;
• mineral compounds.

Top dressing is carried out immediately after watering twice a month, for a dormant period it is generally abandoned.

Brief conclusions

• Dieffenbachia is a tropical flower native to South America. Since it does not bush, but stretches, it can only be given the appropriate shape by transplanting and pruning. All manipulations must be carried out strictly with gloves, because the culture is poisonous!
• Pruning of the plant is carried out at the age of at least 2-3 years. It is performed if characteristic symptoms are found. If the procedure is carried out on time, it will be possible to rejuvenate the bush and protect it from developmental problems.
• Transplantation should also be carried out in time, otherwise there is a risk of developing diseases, reducing the decorative attractiveness of the flower. This is manifested in the fall and reduction of foliage in size, growth retardation, rapid drying of the soil after it is moistened.
• After all the procedures, the flower needs competent care, it includes regular watering and high-quality top dressing. Subject to all recommendations, the plant will quickly restore strength, begin to grow actively, delighting the eye with lush, variegated foliage.

Homeland dieffenbachia - plants with decorative leaves - are the rainforests of the American continent. Described by Austrian botanists, the plant got its name in honor of one of the discoverers. In nature, species of ornamental shrubs reach enormous sizes. In indoor floriculture, hybrids are common, which are of interest in the color of the leaves, the feature of the flower. The plant appreciates unpretentiousness in care, and is grown to purify indoor air.

The indoor flower has a thick fleshy stem, on which there are large ovoid leaves. In height, many types of plants reach a meter. They differ only in the color of the leaves:

• In spotted dieffenbachia, small yellowish spots are scattered on the dark green of the leaf plate. There are a lot of them in the middle, towards the edge - they come to naught.
• The Seguin hybrid has huge leaves fifteen centimeters in diameter. In addition to spotting, whitish stripes are visible along the veins.
• Dieffenbachia Camilla has a bushy form with small leaves. Originality in their colors: light middle and dark green edges.
• Beautiful symmetrical colors in the lovely dieffenbachia. Veins are drawn on the leaf plate in a light tone.
• In bush plant varieties, light stripes are drawn in the middle on oval-shaped green leaves.
• During the growing season, a houseplant has inconspicuous white flowers collected on the cob.

Dieffenbachia is characterized by rapid growth. The leaves appear so quickly that after a year or two the top of the tree rests on the ceiling. At the same time, there are no leaves left on the stem below.
The decorative appearance of a tropical flower attracts many. By absorbing moisture from the leaves, the plant releases a lot of oxygen, helping to reduce the content of chemical compounds in the house. But there are so many of them that are distinguished by the materials used in the manufacture of furniture.

But in addition to useful properties, the plant is considered poisonous. Therefore, it is suitable for those who do not have pets at home. The tree will serve as an excellent air ionizer in offices, industrial premises.

For tropical Dieffenbachia, the following conditions are created necessary for active growth:

1. Lots of light is important, but no direct sunlight. Therefore, a pot with a plant is best placed in the southwestern or southeastern part of the house. You can determine the lack of light by the way the leaves look. If the number of light spots decreases, and the plate becomes uniformly green, then the plant needs illumination.
2. The indoor temperature range for indoor flower is from 18 to 25 degrees above zero. In summer, you can put a pot of dieffenbachia on a glazed loggia or veranda. The heat in the room will lead to the drying of the leaves, flying around it.
3. Drafts, sudden changes in temperature should not be allowed, otherwise the beauty will be left without leaves.
4. The soil is selected with moderate acidity.
5. Given the rapid growth of the bush, a large pot is needed for a flower.
6. Tropical air is always saturated with moisture. This is important for a plant. Therefore, he is satisfied with regular spraying. When the air temperature in the room drops, the shower is replaced by wet processing of the leaves. Wet a soft cloth with warm water and gently wipe the surface of the sheet with it.

The conditions created will positively affect the proper development of dieffenbachia.

The houseplant is easy to root, so it is easy to propagate. Most often, for breeding dieffenbachia, cuttings are taken, which are prepared from the main stem. Be sure to choose a site with kidneys. It is immersed in warm water for one or three weeks. This time will be enough for the cutting to take root.

After that, you need to pick up a container, pouring a mixture of peat and sand into it. The sprout is placed in a pot, covered with a cap from a plastic bottle. Now it remains to place the container in a warm place. The greenhouse is often ventilated, the shoot is watered as the top layer of soil dries up. After two months, the first leaves will appear. Now the plant is ready for further development.

You can root a cutting taken from the bottom of the stem immediately in the ground.

Often, from the hemp obtained by cutting the cuttings, young leaves begin to grow. In bush species of dieffenbachia, lateral branches play the role of propagation material. They must be separated from the mother stem and planted in another pot. Reproduction of the plant is always effective, as it takes root easily.

Pruning: terms and rules

Trimming the top of a tropical tree begins when the Dieffenbachia is two to three years old. The fact that it is time to carry out the procedure can be seen from the bare stem below and the shaggy top due to the many leaves.

The best time for pruning is the dormant period - winter, although new leaves appear at this time. Many people think that you can always cut as soon as the need arises.

Features and trimming rules:

• The procedure is carried out with a pruner or a sharp knife, which is treated with alcohol before the procedure.
• Do not forget about the poisonousness of the leaves, stem dieffenbachia. Hands must be protected with rubber gloves, and eyes with special goggles. A respiratory mask is put on the face so as not to damage the mucous membrane of the mouth and nose. The surface of the body must be covered with a bathrobe, since the juice, once on the skin, will cause a severe allergic reaction. If this happens, then it is necessary to rinse the place where the juice got into under running water.
• You can cut the stem as much as you want. With a completely bare trunk, they cut it off, leaving a stump no more than ten centimeters high.
• The place of the cut should be blotted with a napkin, removing the juice that has appeared, sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal.

Cut stems are used to propagate Dieffenbachia by placing them in soil or water for rooting. The procedure for pruning a plant is simple, but requires compliance with safety rules.

The flower recovers quickly after pruning. The bare stem begins to grow leaves and grow upwards. Dieffenbachia can be strengthened with proper care, which consists in watering and feeding:

• Without constant moistening of the soil and air, the plant will die. Water the tree with warm settled water. And they are sprayed from a spray bottle, this is especially important when the air in the room is dry. For moistening, you can place wet moss or pebbles in the pan. This will allow the leaves to be saturated with wet vapor constantly. Waterlogging of the soil will destroy dieffenbachia. Therefore, the need for moisture is determined by the state of the soil in the pot.
• Plant nutrition consists of alternating mineral and. Organic substances are excluded for those species in which light shades predominate in the pattern of the leaf plate. They need non-nitrogen compounds. Fertilize twice a month. With improper feeding or watering, dieffenbachia sheds foliage, exposing the lower part of the trunk. During the dormant period, reduce the frequency of watering, stop fertilizing decorative bushes.

As soon as the pot becomes small for the plant, it is transplanted into another, larger one. The main method of transplantation is transshipment along with a lump of soil on the roots. It is important to pour a layer of expanded clay into a new spacious pot, and pick up a nutritious, loose soil. A houseplant is unpretentious in care, always pleases with the diversity of leaves.

More information can be found in the video:

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