How to unscrew a stuck nut or bolt in a car: All methods. How to easily unscrew a nut if it does not give in How to remove a nut from a thread

It is difficult to find a master who has never in his life encountered a stuck threaded connection. Today we will talk about the best ways to deal with a similar problem with different types of connections and using a variety of tools and devices.

What wrenches to use

Removing rusted threads requires significant effort. Unfortunately, ordinary open-end wrenches are of little use for these purposes. Not only are they not effective enough, but they can simply ruin a good instrument. Even Cr-V horns can become bent and lose their original size forever.

In old workshops, open-end wrenches were strengthened by welding pieces of reinforcement onto them and using them specifically to break off rusty threaded connections. Today there is no need for such modifications: socket heads and spanners are ubiquitous, which are best suited for breaking.

There is, however, a small caveat: wrenches and sockets with 12 or 18 edges for breaking do not fit well, and there is a high risk of slipping. It is better to use hex tools for tearing. It’s even better if the heads have so-called rotating or screw edges. That's what they're called - heads for torn edges. When unscrewing, they themselves provide the required clamping force.

While suitable socket heads are fairly easy to find, spanners with six edges are extremely rare. However, they are indispensable for breaking off nuts with a large thread overhang, where the only alternative to a ring wrench can only be an extended head, and even then not always. Socket wrenches with twelve edges on heavily boiled nuts are highly likely to become unusable.

In some situations, both socket and socket wrenches are useless. Nuts and bolts with completely smooth edges can only be unscrewed using pipe adjustable wrenches or self-clamping clamps. Tip from a car service: use a small bench vice (or watchmaker's vice) with an adjustable wrench as a lever to clamp the nut.

Lubricants and chemicals for etching

The processes that lead to thread jamming due to rust occur on a microscopic scale. Their closest analogy at the macro level is when cereal gets stuck in a funnel: wedging against each other, particles of rust and salts tightly clog the cramped space. The situation is aggravated by the fact that, oxidizing in air, rust increases in size and seems to be bursting the thread from the inside.

The simplest way to get rid of this effect is to turn the crystalline particles into a viscous mess. A wide range of liquids can serve as a solvent - from water to kerosene and machine oil. The more fluid the lubricant is, the more effective it is in loosening rusted threads. High fluidity is the advantage of universal lubricants such as WD-40.

Note that the chemical composition of rust may differ from case to case, and attempts to lubricate a threaded connection do not always lead to success. An alternative would be to try to dissolve the salt deposits inside the threads using water or weakly concentrated solutions of acids or alkalis. The only drawback of this method is that the reaction requires time, often quite long. However, if you leave the thread soaked in Coca-Cola, a sink cleaner with hydrochloric acid, or even plain water for several hours, it will be much easier to tighten the rusted nut.

What does it mean to “warm” a thread?

The problem can be quickly solved only by mechanical action on the threaded connection. In this case, the impact must be dynamic: there is no point in putting pressure on a grain stuck in a funnel, but if you shake it, the grains will begin to wake up again.

In common parlance this is called “warm the thread” - apply a series of targeted blows to different parts of the connection. It is the vibration effect that helps to loosen the jammed thread and subsequently breaking it off with an ordinary wrench can occur without any noticeable effort at all.

To properly heat the thread, you need to tap the nut both along the edges and in the axial direction. Hitting the bolt can also be successful. Working with a hammer drill in the chiselling mode has the greatest effect, but the nut must be turned periodically.

How to burn through a rusty nut

An alternative to the previous method is to destroy large crystals of salts and oxides, reducing the friction force inside the thread. This can be done due to the thermal expansion of the metal of the nut and bolt. In the simplest case, another one, but of a larger diameter, is welded to the licked nut. Due to the heating of the thread and the presence of fresh edges, it becomes very easy to unscrew the thread.

Calcining the threaded connection helps in almost 100% of cases, but this is not always convenient to do for two reasons:

1. There is no suitable equipment on site;
2. Connected or adjacent parts are sensitive to heat.

However, it is not necessary to heat the thread white-hot. It is enough to provide heating to approximately 450-500 ºС, while expansion of several microns will be quite sufficient. Even a regular propane gas burner will cope with this task.

A more sophisticated way is to wrap the nut with several turns of nichrome or fechral wire and apply voltage from a car battery to the ends. Such local heating will protect sensitive parts from exposure to flame and will help significantly weaken the threads.

How to use a nut puller

Bolted connections that have remained rusty for ten years or more may become completely intractable. To separate parts, the nut was previously hacked or loosened using a chisel. Two notches on different faces are enough, but not on adjacent ones.

Today, a special tool is provided for these purposes. Pullers are similar to spanners, but on one of the faces there is a movable carbide cutter with a screw feed mechanism. Using the puller is very simple: having twisted the cutter tightly for reliable fixation, you need to put a crank on the tail of the screw and make another 2-3 full turns. The sharpening angle is specially selected so that the nut is deformed, and at the same time its internal diameter increases.

A couple of notches on different sides will be enough for the thread to start turning freely. However, you should be careful: the steel of the cutter is quite fragile, plus there is always the possibility of damaging the bolt thread, which in most cases is undesirable.

If the hairpin boils: learn to work as an extractor

If a bolt is screwed into an internal thread in one of the parts, then heating, calcination and other effects on the connection are greatly limited. Very often in such cases the bolt breaks off and a piece remains inside the part.

If a bolt of large diameter (M10 or more) breaks, and smaller fasteners can be used for fixation, then it is much more profitable to drill a new hole and make a smaller thread in it. The opposite is also possible: drill out the bolt completely with a larger drill and cut a larger thread.

During such operations you need to be very careful and carefully control the direction of drilling. Especially in cases where a hard steel bolt is surrounded by a softer material, such as in an engine block.

If you have a special tool, the fragment can be unscrewed. It makes sense to use an extractor for broken bolts with sizes ranging from M6 and above; smaller studs require an almost jewelry-like approach.

To unscrew a fragment with an extractor, you first need to make a longitudinal hole along its central axis of a diameter for which the particular extractor used is designed. Before this, the visible edge of the fragment is ground down perpendicularly and cored exactly in the center.

The extractor has a left-hand thread with a slight taper. When screwing it into the body of a bolt or stud, a moment comes when the friction forces in the internal thread become higher than in the external thread, and then the boiled fragment breaks off and can be relatively easily removed.

When using an extractor, it is necessary that enough “body” remains in the fragment, otherwise the cone screw can crush the remains of the pin and jam it even more. It is also very important to strictly adhere to the established diameters of the preparation holes and use only extractors of the appropriate size.

Ways to Prevent Corrosion on Threads

When you repair the threaded connection, take care to ensure that the problem does not reoccur. Threads can be protected from corrosion using lubricants with neutral acidity or slightly alkaline. This class of fuels and lubricants is called conservation, typical examples are graphite lubricant USsA and “Solidol”.

Protecting the threaded connection from the environment will also help. Most paints and enamels based on alkyd or polyurethane are suitable for this. You should not use silicone, because its high acidity only promotes the formation of rust.

Finally, don't forget that some threaded connections require maintenance and retightening. If the connection must remain detachable, it must be loosened periodically (every 2-3 years) and lubricated with at least ordinary machine oil.

The spline connection of the outer CV joint is a critical unit. It is this part that bears the torque load. It is no wonder that the grenade nut, which holds the floating axle shaft in the drive wheel hub, should not unscrew on its own.

There are many ways to fix threads:

Before unscrewing the hub nut, it is advisable to read the instructions for routine maintenance of your car. It indicates the method of fixation, the direction of the thread and other nuances.

• Changing the geometry of the nut (one side is oval). Anyone who has repeatedly unscrewed such a nut has seen that the threads gradually become unusable;
• Punching after tightening. This solution is not suitable for replaceable units, since this will damage the screw part. However, many car manufacturers fix the hub nut in this way so that it does not unscrew while driving;
• Hairpin. The most reliable method of fixation. The nut does not unscrew on its own, and the thread does not deteriorate. For some reason, not all car designers use this simple method;
• The retainer is a “shoulder-groove”. A common method, more reliable than core punching, but detrimental to carvings. Longitudinal grooves (one or two) are made on the threaded connection of the axle shaft. The CV joint nut has the same number of collars, which bend into grooves after tightening. It is almost impossible to unscrew the nut without damaging the thread;
• A variety of fixing paints and adhesives. Not used on hub connections.

Since the connection is in unfavorable conditions (especially if the boot cap is lost), the nut does not unscrew the first time. An inexperienced driver panics, starts turning the nut in the wrong direction, uses attachments on the wrench in the form of a meter-long pipe, and as a result breaks the thread. The consequences are a forced replacement of a still-living CV joint.

How to unscrew the hub nut without ruining the threaded connection

First of all, stock up on quality tools. An ordinary wrench is not suitable for plumbing work, although many car owners stubbornly use them to repair CV joints (the size is the same, but the cost of the tool is lower). An open-end wrench can only be used to unscrew an already “undermined” nut, this is really more convenient.

For the hub (CV joint), only a union head is used. The end cap can be cast or stamped (the second option is cheaper), and exactly match the size of the nut. If you “lick” the edges using a tool with backlash, you will be working with an angle grinder, and you will have to say goodbye to the CV joint.

Important! Reuse of nuts is not permitted. Before unscrewing the old nut, make sure you have a new one.

• Thoroughly clean the surface from corrosion and dirt. If a spline-shoulder pair is used, you need to pick out everything that is in the holes;
• Treat the joint with a penetrating compound for soured threads. For example, WD-40 liquid, or regular kerosene. You may need to "soak" the thread for several hours;
• Remove all fixing devices;
• Place the socket on the nut and try to turn it using the lever. At this stage, it is better not to use handles with ratchets, as the mechanism may be damaged;
• After “undermining”, the nut can be unscrewed with any wrench that is more convenient.

Throw away the old nut and stud. Clean the threaded connection from rust and traces of fixing compounds.

How to unscrew the CV joint nut if a fixing collar is used

It is this method of fixation that most often leads to “licking” of the thread. VAZ drivers know what they are talking about. An inexperienced master, delighted at the easy movement of the nut, will ruin your grenade in 2-3 turns of the key.

For proper release, you need a special punch that exactly matches the size of the spline collar. You won’t find them during the day with a fire, so it’s wise to make a useful tool yourself. For example, from an old file. With its help, you can unscrew the nut while maintaining the threads on the axle shaft.

After disassembly, it is necessary to slightly grind the shoulder to remove burrs.

What to do if the nuts do not unscrew?

Have you removed the clamps, “soaked off” the rust, bought a wrench with a 1 meter lever, but it still doesn’t work? There are proven ways to unscrew a nut without a grinder.

• Reverse rotation. Sometimes it is enough to first move the nut in the direction of tightening, and the process will begin;
• Tap the nut. Use a small hammer (preferably brass or copper) to tap the edges;
• Heat. A gas torch or blowtorch is an almost 100% guarantee of success due to the expansion of the metal. In an electrified garage you can use a hair dryer. Heat for at least 5 minutes.

Don’t panic, hit the key with a sledgehammer, or cut the hub with a grinder. Rust on the threads is not welding. The connection is still removable, it just requires a little patience.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

Summary of the article

When repairing a car, a dilemma often arises about how to unscrew a stuck nut or bolt. People often get lost and go to extremes, even cutting off an intractable part.

But this is a mistake. There are many methods to solve the problem without taking drastic measures. They are divided into mechanical, using heat, using special compounds or tools.

Below we will look in detail at how to unscrew a stuck nut in a car. Similar recommendations can be applied to bolted connections.

Reasons why you can’t unscrew a bolt or nut

Experts identify several factors that complicate or make it impossible to unscrew a bolt or nut.

Let's highlight the main ones:

1. Mechanical distortion of a part, for example, under strong impact from a heavy object.
2. Screwing in a nut or bolt, bypassing the threaded connections. In this case, the person does not immediately fall into the thread, but makes an effort, which only aggravates the situation.
3. The appearance of rust at the joints, which prevents unscrewing.
4. The interaction of two materials with each other.

The first two problems are difficult to solve using standard methods, because we are talking about mechanical damage or “forcible” tightening with damage to the thread.

Regarding the last two problems, they can be solved in many ways. Let's talk about this in detail in the article.

Mechanical methods

If a nut or bolt is stuck, the part can be unscrewed by applying additional force.

The following options are possible here:

1. Using a spanner or socket head. One of the common mistakes is using an open-end wrench. Its main disadvantage is that it covers only three faces. In this case, the main force falls on only two ribs. The result may be damage to the part. At the same time, it is impossible to unscrew a stuck bolt or nut. In many cases the situation gets even worse. Using a socket type head or a spanner wrench solves the problem.
2. Adding additional force by increasing leverage. The idea is to add key length using additional products. Alternatively, you can use a tube. But it is important to be careful here. The key should cover all edges to reduce the likelihood of breaking and “licking”.
3. Change of direction. If you need to unscrew a stuck nut, try tightening the connection first, and then rotate the product in the opposite direction. Next, follow a similar algorithm - forward and backward. As a result of such measures, the rust layer is destroyed, which allows you to gradually unscrew the part.
4. Applying a certain force to a specific point. To solve the problem, you can use a chisel and a hammer. The principle is simple. Make a small depression at the point of future impact, install a chisel in it, and then hit it with a hammer until the bolt or nut moves from a constant point.

With this effect, significantly greater force is applied to the threaded connection. During operation, monitor the condition of the part so as not to damage it.

The advantage of this method is that it can be used to unscrew not only a stuck nut, but also a broken nut.

Another method involves slightly impacting the threaded connection before unscrewing. We are talking about tapping the product with a hammer.

The goal is to knock off the layer of corrosion that prevents the bolt or nut from being unscrewed. The main thing here is not to apply much force so as not to accidentally destroy the connection.

In all the cases considered, after successful unscrewing, it is recommended to replace the threaded parts and pre-treat them with lubricant.

Heat

To unscrew a tightly stuck nut or bolt, use the properties of the metal. We are talking about heating the problem area.

As a result, the nut expands, which allows you to unscrew the jammed unit. Another option is to warm up the entire structure, which will remove excess traces of corrosion.

For heating, you can use any available tools, be it a hair dryer, soldering iron or other flame sources.

When choosing a method, be aware of the risks. The use of this method is unacceptable in the presence of plastic, wooden elements or flammable compounds nearby.

Electric heating can be used instead of an open flame. In the latter case, you will need a 1.1-1.5 V transformer designed for maximum current. The “secondary” must be closed to a bolted connection.

Application of lubricant

To unscrew a stuck nut, you can use penetrating compounds. They fall on the threaded channels and thereby reduce friction.

Gasoline, kerosene, antifreeze and other compounds are used as working fluids. You can use turpentine or white spirit.

These liquids can be safely used to unscrew a stuck bolt or nut.

The process is simple:

Find a clean rag and dip it in the prepared liquid;
wait a certain time until the composition reaches problem areas;
after three to four hours, apply force to unscrew the connection;
if unsuccessful, try to do this work again;
if that fails, tap the part around the perimeter.

Alternatively, you can use special lubricants that are sold in automotive stores.

A prominent representative is WD-40, which includes gasoline, mineral and other components.

Thanks to this composition, the product quickly copes with rust and allows you to unscrew even a heavily rusted bolt or nut.

But keep in mind that the effectiveness of WD-40 depends on the cause of the problem. If the nut is stuck due to high temperatures, the effectiveness of WD-40 is reduced.

Chemical treatment

An alternative is the use of chemical compounds that allow you to unscrew even the most hopeless nut or bolt.

Caution is important here, because “chemistry” is dangerous not only for metal, but also for human skin. The most powerful acids are sulfuric, acetic, hydrochloric, citric and other acids.

The easiest way is to “extract” sulfuric acid, which is located in the battery.

The usage algorithm is as follows:

Make a “fence” around a bolt or nut, for example, using plasticine;
pour acid into the resulting cavity;
add a little zinc to activate the process;
After 24 hours, try unscrewing the connection.

If everything is done correctly, you can be confident of success. Note that other acids are less effective and require more time. Once again we will repeat about the risks to the skin, so you need to work with gloves.

An alternative solution is the use of phosphoric acid, which many of us take in food almost every day. We are talking about Pepsi or Coca-Cola.

The use of such a liquid gives results only with minor corrosion. It is suitable for unscrewing a mixer nut or some kind of threaded connection on a car.

It is impossible not to mention another folk remedy. Take a small glass or metal container.

Mix 50 ml of acetone and the same volume of rust remover in it. Add a spoonful of graphite lubricant to the resulting mixture.

Mix everything and apply to the problem area. Please note that work should be performed in a well-ventilated area. In 20-25 minutes you will be able to unscrew even a strongly stuck nut or bolt.

Special tool

When considering methods for unscrewing a stuck bolt or nut, it is important to remember special devices.

Let's highlight the main ones:

1. Puller. This tool looks like a spanner wrench. On one side there is a carbide cutter having a helical structure. First, move the cutter to the part, place the knob on the edge of the screw and turn the tool several times. In this case, the nut is damaged and its diameter increases. Two or three notches are enough to unscrew a stuck part.
2. Extractor. If there is a problem with a bolted connection, heat and other effects may be ineffective or inconvenient.

If you accidentally tear off a bolt, the rest of it will remain inside. In this case, take a small-diameter drill and make a new hole in the rod.

The tool features left-handed threads with minimal taper. When screwing into the body, there comes a moment when the friction from the inside exceeds the outside. In this case, the fragment is damaged and can be easily removed.

To use such tools, you need to buy them or find them somewhere. If you have “extra” money on hand, it is worth purchasing a puller in order to resolve the issue with a stuck nut or bolt in case of force majeure.

Extreme measures

If the methods discussed above are ineffective, extreme measures can be used. But remember that after using them, the threaded part cannot be used and you will have to throw it away.

Available options:

1. Take a grinder and carefully cut off the bolted connection so as not to snag nearby parts.
2. Use a drill with the required drill bit. Drill a hole right in the center of the bolt, allowing you to break the piece and remove it.

How to protect yourself from corrosion

To avoid the difficulties mentioned above, it is necessary to take measures to protect bolts or nuts from corrosion.

To solve the problem, lubricants with no acidity or that are slightly alkaline are suitable. As an option, treat threaded connections using solid oil or USSA.

Another way to protect yourself from rust is to separate the metal from the negative effects of the environment.

To do this, you can use alkyd or polyurethane compounds (paints, enamels). The use of silicone is not recommended, because this composition has high acidity, and this leads to corrosion.

Also, retighten the bolts or nuts from time to time. Ideally, it is necessary to do the work once every two to three years, followed by lubrication with the compounds mentioned above or with engine oil.

Most of the time the nuts become one piece with the attached bolt. They are so stuck in place that it is even difficult to rip them off. Rusty equipment can cause serious damage to any component. If they are not coated, they are at risk of rust and corrosion. There are some special conditions that increase the rate at which rust spreads, such as humid climates and too much moisture exposure. Not all types of rust can be detected immediately. They can harm the equipment and even cause it to malfunction. Rust and corrosion can cause the entire component to fail. Therefore, it is important to resolve quickly before damage is done.

Options for how to unscrew a rusty nut or bolt on a car.

Why is a rusty nut or bolt difficult to unscrew?

If components are exposed to humid weather or moisture for a long time, they will rust fairly quickly. One of the components that suffers the most is the fasteners found in automotive components. Moisture can cause fasteners to degrade, putting devices on the verge of failure. It is difficult to remove these stuck fasteners, especially if the metal head or threads are affected by rust. Rust makes it difficult to grasp the fastener with a screwdriver or wrench.

Which tool is better to use?

Removing rusty fasteners can be done in several ways. Here are the ones that are most commonly used and most effective.

Lubrication

If the assembly is stuck in place due to rust, then using WD-40 Penetrant Spray is the ideal solution. If rust has reached the threads, there is no better way to loosen it than using WD-40 penetrating spray. Apply it to the part and then tap it using a hammer. This will help the WD-40 penetrate and loosen the assembly so it can be easily removed.

cutting

If a part is so badly rusted that it cannot be removed, the only option left is to cut it out. This will make the component unusable, but will help you resolve the problem. You can use pliers to get a good grip on the head of the fastener and twist it firmly to release it from position. Another viable way to loosen rusty bolts and nuts on your car is to use a heating torch on low to moderate heat. The heat will allow the rusty parts to expand enough to loosen them. However, it is important to be very careful with this method. Many lubricants applied to stuck components are flammable and can ignite when exposed to flame.

Proven Rust Removal Methods

Although it is possible to get rid of the rusty nut and replace it with a new one, this option is not available in all cases. There are many old components and parts whose fastenings cannot be replaced with new ones. In such cases, you need to restore them using rust removal techniques, which is the most cost-effective way to keep your car running. Here are some common methods used to remove rust.

Grinding

Once you are done removing the rust, you can rub it with steel wool or sandpaper to remove any remaining rust. This is an inexpensive and relatively simple method. This can be very time consuming and also requires lubrication to reuse the fastener.

Hydrogen peroxide

Applying hydrogen peroxide to fasteners and leaving it for a while will also remove rust. Hydrogen peroxide dissolves rust. Brushing with a stiff brush will help you get rid of rust. This is also an inexpensive method of treating rust, but it may leave residual stains.

Repainting

Coating nuts and screws with paint can also prevent them from rusting. Remove rust from fasteners before covering them with paint, which protects against moisture, the main cause of rust. Wax or oil based coatings can also help prevent rust from forming on your car's body and parts.

Rust converter

You can find a number of rust converters that can help get rid of rust. WD-40 Penetrating Spray not only helps loosen rusted and stuck nuts and bolts, but also prevents rust from reoccurring in the future.

Safety precautions

Compliance with safety regulations is the key to successful work. Follow the recommendations of experts to secure and simplify the process:

• All tools and equipment must be in good working order and without damage.
• You need to remove the nut counterclockwise.
• Immediately before you apply any force to remove a bolt or nut, make sure that the tool or equipment is securely secured and will not injure you.
• Use special household gloves to avoid injury.

Ways to unscrew rusty parts at home

In most cases, you can remove a rusted bolt by unscrewing the nut with a wrench or chisel. However, if it is rusted or stuck, you will need to find another way to remove it. If the hex surfaces are not smooth, try heating the bolt with a propane torch to loosen it. In some cases, truly stuck components cannot be removed and must be cut off instead. You can purchase all the necessary materials at a large hardware store or home goods supermarket.

Method 1: Loosen the bolt using a wrench or pliers

1. Spray penetrating oil under the bolt head and around the nut. Penetrating oils like WD-40 will seep under the base and help lubricate the bolt threads and remove the rusted nut. This will make it easier to loosen and will be especially useful if the bolt is rusted. Give the oil at least 20 minutes to absorb. You can purchase penetrating oil at any hardware store. You can also find it in a large supermarket.
2. Slide the hollow piece of metal onto the handle of the socket wrench. Use a piece of metal at least half a meter long. This will effectively extend your wrench that length and give you more strength when you try to remove the rusty bolt. You can find hollow metal rods at large hardware or home improvement stores. Look for a rod with a hollow internal diameter of at least 19mm. If you want, take your socket wrench with you to the hardware store to make sure the handle will fit into the metal strip you choose. Please be aware that using a hollow rod to increase leverage may result in damage or breakage.
3. Try removing the stuck bolt using an extended wrench. Hook the end of the socket wrench onto the head of the mount and hold the wrench at the very end of the extension rod. With your other hand, grab the nut with large pliers. Pull the end of the wrench sharply to try to loosen the stuck bolt. Ideally, a penetrating spray will break down the resistance and allow the rusty nut to be removed. If it's too awkward to hold a wrench and pliers at the same time, ask a friend or family member to help you.
4. Use pliers to secure. If the sharp hex sides of a jammed bolt have been smoothed and rounded, the socket wrench will slip out when you try to loosen the assembly. Locking pliers have teeth on the inside of the rounded jaws and can be clamped tightly onto flat, serrated surfaces. You should be able to fit the hollow piece of metal onto the end of the pliers just like any other wrench.

Method 2: Heating the bolt

1. Heat the fastener with a propane torch if it still does not give way. If the fastener doesn't budge when you try to remove it with an extended wrench, it's time to try using heat. Turn on the propane torch and keep the flame at a distance of about 15 mm. from the surface. Keep the flame on for about 15 seconds. The heat from the propane torch should cause the part to expand.
2. Apply the flame from a propane torch to the nut for 15 seconds. Once you apply the flame to the assembly and it begins to expand, switch and heat the nut for 15 seconds. Alternate heating the components for about 2 minutes. The end of the bolt that you don't apply flame to shrinks, and the end that you heat expands. This will change the overall shape of the node. Ideally, the expansion and contraction will break down any corrosion holding it in place.
3. Loosen with an extended wrench. Insert the end of your socket wrench into the hollow metal rod. Put on a wrench and grab the nut with two large pliers. Hold the nut in place and pull the end of the wrench. Give 4-5 sharp jerks and see if the mount moves. If the bolt is still loose, heat it with a propane torch for another 10 minutes or move on to another method.

Method 3: Removing the rusty bolt

1. Remove as much rust as possible using a wire brush. Take a stiff bristle wire brush and aggressively scrub away any rust from the mount. It is almost impossible to remove fasteners that are completely rusted, so scrub for 4-5 minutes until almost all of the rust is removed. Large hardware stores may sell wire brushes specifically designed for removing rust.
2. Once most of the rust has been removed, fill both ends with liquid thread loosener. Let the liquid soak into the metal for about 30 minutes. Effective brands of lubricants that penetrate rust are Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and Royal Purple Maxfilm. Don't use WD-40 for this. Although it is an effective lubricant, it is not effective at penetrating layers of rust.
3. Hit the base 6-12 times with a hammer. Once the rust-penetrating concentrate has loosened the fastener, hit it firmly with a hammer to dislodge the assembly from the position in which it is stuck. Hammering can also cause microcracks, making removal easier. Change the direction of the hammer blows so they hit more than one place. Tap all 6 sides of the stuck nut at least once.
4. Unscrew the rusty fasteners using a long-handled socket wrench. A long-handled wrench will give you more leverage than a typical short-handled wrench. Hold the very end of the wrench and pull, applying constant, steady pressure and loosening. With sufficient force, the bolt on the machine should give in and come out. If you are unsure of the size, try 3-4 different socket sizes until you find the one that fits best.

Method 4. Destruction of a stuck bolt

1. Buy a screw extractor that matches the size of your bolt. Find the right size extractor that can remove a bolt stuck on your car by measuring the diameter of its threaded part. Find a screw extractor that is about 0.3 cm narrower. If you have measurements, the sales staff can help you find the right size extractor.
2. Drill out the stuck bolt shank using a screw extractor. A screw extractor is a long, thin piece of threaded metal that screws into a regular electric drill. Place the draw point in the center of the bolt and slowly pull the trigger of the drill. Slide the screw extractor down through the base of the mount and let it remove the bolt from the inside. Although this will destroy the bolt, it will be much easier to remove.
3. If the screw extractor does not remove the stuck bolt itself, use a wrench to remove the bolt. Place the end of the socket wrench over the head of the drilled bolt and turn it counterclockwise to loosen the bolt. If the screw extractor has destroyed the bolt and pieces of the bolt remain inside the material through which it was screwed, you may need to hit the bolt head and nut several times with a hammer to remove them.
4. If the screw extractor cannot remove the screw, or if the screw is too rusty for the extractor to penetrate, the only option is to cut the bolt away from whatever it is attached to. Insert the hacksaw blade into the reciprocating saw and press the blade against the shaft of the stuck bolt. Turn on the saw and cut through the bolt and shaft. When cutting through a stuck bolt, keep your fingers and hands away from the blade.

Removing rust from nuts and bolts and loosening threads is a difficult task. If you're looking for the best lubricant to make the job easier, then nothing beats WD-40 penetration spray. All you have to do is spray it on rusty and stripped nuts and bolts. There are also rust converters on the market from other popular manufacturers. If you don’t have WD-40 at hand, use the available tools that every motorist has in his garage. And first of all it is gasoline, kerosene, turpentine and others. The procedure is standard - the area around the fastener is cleaned and filled with kerosene, diesel fuel, or gasoline. After 10-15 minutes, when the liquid penetrates deep into the thread, you can try to twist the bolt or nut.

“Solvents” such as vinegar, Coca Cola, an alcohol solution of iodine, or even brake fluid are also suitable for this purpose. The instructions for all products are the same - apply the product to the rusted bolt or nut, wait 15-30 minutes, and then try to tear it off. WD-40 Penetrant is a fast-acting, powerful, fast-penetrating spray that goes into hard-to-reach areas and loosens stuck and jammed fasteners. It also helps loosen rusty moving parts and is water resistant. This keeps moisture out, keeping your nuts and bolts safe from future rust and corrosion.

A nut that is rusty and therefore does not want to be unscrewed is a problem that is not uncommon for motorists, mechanics, plumbers, and cyclists. The part is stuck in place as if tightly. Sometimes it takes too much effort and time to stir her up. We will introduce you to several methods that will tell you how to unscrew a rusty nut quickly and with a minimum of effort.

Why is a rusty nut difficult to unscrew?

As a result of the interaction of metal with oxygen in a humid environment, the material develops its characteristic corrosion - rust. During its formation, there is a multiple increase in the volume of the oxidation product (the same rust). The nut “swollen” in this way almost tightly merges with the bolt. With a little miscalculation of strength, you can easily break the bolt while trying to break this union.

But rust is far from the only reason why the nut does not unscrew:

• Pollution. If dirt, dust, or small metal shavings are stuck on the surface of the thread, then this becomes an obstacle to unscrewing the nut and jamming it in one place.
• Tight puff. A tightly tightened nut is also the cause of a hopeless situation. Strongly tightened metal surfaces of two parts, a bolt and a nut, stick to the adjacent one, which makes it very difficult to unscrew the element.
• Poor quality tool. The problem may be the same wrench, the edges of which are ground off, deformed or otherwise damaged.

Selecting the right tool

To successfully unscrew a rusty nut, you first need to collect the tools that will help you in this matter:

• Socket wrench.
• Socket wrench.
• Heads with a collar.
• Mechanical impact wrench.

Do not try to move a tightly jammed nut using force! Such an impact will only lead to thread breakage, cutting off the faceted part, and often even to tool breakage. First of all, you need to help the matter with the help of a hex wrench. An open-end wrench should not be used.

About safety precautions

Before unscrewing a rusty nut, read these important safety points:

• Do not use a tool that is damaged in any way.
• The nut is always unscrewed counterclockwise.
• The tool must be securely fixed to the part.
• Use special household gloves to avoid injury.

So, if a nut is rusty, how do you unscrew it? We offer you several effective methods.

Method No. 1: dissolving rust

How to unscrew a rusty nut? We will not suffer with the tool, wasting our strength in vain. Let's go in search of a substance that will help dissolve rust and reduce friction. Of the most famous ones that have proven themselves well:

• Special product WD-40.
• Kerosene.
• Brake fluid.
• Petrol.
• Carburetor cleaner.
• Alcohol.
• Table vinegar.
• "Coca-Cola" and other drinks containing inorganic phosphoric acid.

We are sure that at least one of the above is at your fingertips. Next, the algorithm of your actions is simple:

1. Wet the nut well with the product. Wait about half an hour.
2. After this, try to carefully unscrew the part with a tool. If it doesn’t work out, apply the substance again and wait.
3. The product will work better if you soak a rag or napkin in it and wrap it around the nut.
4. You can then speed up the unscrewing by lightly tapping the part with a hammer.
5. Another effective way is to try to twist the nut with a strong and sharp jerk after exposure to the solution.
6. For a small nut, the “rocking” method will help - back and forth.

Method number 2: heating

When a nut is rusty, what can you do to unscrew it if the previous method is ineffective? Try to heat the part - due to the high temperature, the metal will begin to expand, thereby destroying the layers of rust. The threaded connection will, in turn, lose its strength.

What can be used as a heater:

• Gas burner.
• A lighter.
• Construction hairdryer.
• Blowtorch.

In extreme cases, regular boiling water will help you. Be careful not to use heat in close proximity to wood or painted surfaces.

The instructions for your actions are as follows:

1. Heat the nut very hot - preferably red hot.
2. The next step is to try to unscrew it with a key.
3. If the nut or bolt thread is damaged, it is necessary to weld the end head to the nut, and then heat up the entire structure. Try unscrewing it with a wrench.

Method number 3: breaking the nut

Sometimes the question “How to unscrew a rusty nut?” There is only one answer left - to destroy it. This will help you in this matter:

• Chisel.
• Bulgarian.
• Hacksaw for metal.
• Electric drill.

And here is the algorithm of actions:

• Using a chisel and hammer, prepare grooves along the edges of the nut. The further you drive the chisel, the more the diameter of the part increases. The result of this will be the destruction of the connection held on the thread. You can achieve a similar effect by drilling such holes with an electric drill. This case is useful if you have enough space to access the nut.
• Another way is to use a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. You need to carefully saw the part along the axis of the bolt connected to it.

Method number 4: twisting

The logic is simple: if the nut cannot be unscrewed in the opposite direction, then maybe try moving it along the thread in a different direction? As soon as the part gives in to your efforts, you need to try to slowly but surely twist it in the required direction.

Method number 5: tapping the nut

How to unscrew a rusty nut on a faucet? Any plumber will advise you to tap it.

For these purposes, the ideal tool is a small 100-gram hammer:

• Apply light blows alternately to each of the faces. Moving in a circle, go through this path several times.
• During your actions, microcracks will form in the rusted metal, which will lead to both deformation and destruction of the corrosion layer.

Under no circumstances try to hit the jammed nut harder! This will not only not speed up the process, but will also lead to deformation of the edges of the element, bending of the bolt, or even breakage of the part that holds this structure together.

Method number 6: wax cup

The nut is rusty - how to unscrew it? Another way: from plasticine or wax, mold a shape that resembles a mini-cup in outline. In this case, its height sides should be several millimeters higher than the edges of the nut. Pour sulfuric acid into the “cup” and add a small particle of zinc. You will cause the effect of the so-called galvanic element: the acid will destroy rust, and the iron cations will be helped to restore zinc. As a result, the nut can be unscrewed without damaging the part with acid.

Prevention of the problem

In order not to worry in the future about how to unscrew a rusty nut on a car, bicycle, or faucet, when installing this part, do not forget to do the following:

• Be sure to treat the threads with lubricant: graphite, silicone, Teflon.
• Avoid using solid oil and lithol. The fact is that these substances are perfect only for dynamic, moving parts, but not static ones, which include a bolt and nut. In our case, such a lubricant will only ossify and, on the contrary, will interfere with unscrewing.

We hope that you found a suitable method that helped you cope with the problem that arose. Once again we draw your attention: do not forget about its prevention!

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