In this article we will tell you how to unscrew a stuck nut, a rusty nut, a nut with torn edges or a completely round one. Cases with non-standard nuts - plastic and large - are analyzed separately.
The material also describes the most suitable tool, incl. a special tool professionally used to work with fasteners.
The material is useful for those who intend to unscrew the fasteners of the engine crankshaft, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and other components and assemblies of a car, motorcycle or other equipment.
How to unscrew a nut
As a rule, nuts are unscrewed with hand tools - spanners or open-end wrenches, heads using a wrench or ratchet. However, problematic situations often occur.
How to unscrew a nut when the nut cannot be unscrewed with a regular tool using the usual application of force? In this situation, you should choose from the available tool the one that suits best:
- thin short open-end wrenches, especially with a too loose (broken) jaw, are the worst option, which is better to abandon immediately in a situation with unscrewing rusty stuck nuts (open-end wrenches will lead to torn edges and further difficulties);
- box wrenches with an extended handle are preferable to open-end wrenches, since they cover the perimeter of the nut more tightly;
- A 6-point socket wrench or socket is preferred over the 12-point versions;
- Due to its simplicity and strength, a crank is preferable to a ratchet, because for the latter, the application of increased forces can lead to damage to the mechanism (this is especially true for ratchets with a large number of teeth, each of which is smaller and not so durable);
- an air impact wrench will do a better job than a hand tool;
- in combination with a long wrench or an air impact wrench, the best solution would be the Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (edges), but to the planes, which eliminates the licking of the nut edges;
- A torque amplifier (multiplier) will help apply a force to a large stuck nut that is inaccessible using only the physical capabilities of a person.
Which way to unscrew the nut
In the vast majority of cases, the fastener has a right-hand thread direction: you need to unscrew the nut counterclockwise (we look at the nut from the side of the free threaded end of the bolt or stud through which you need to drive the nut).
Accordingly, unscrew the nut with a left-hand thread clockwise.
When deciding which way to unscrew the nut, just look carefully at the fasteners:
- on the side you can see the inclination of the threads at a small angle - unscrew the nut in the direction in which the thread “rises”;
- even if the threaded part is not visible, you can see the desired direction along the end of the nut at the point where the last turn of its internal thread exits.
How to unscrew a stuck nut
In order to unscrew a stuck nut, we recommend performing several preliminary preparatory operations:
- clean the fasteners from rust and dirt with a wire brush;
- tap the nut around with a hammer without damaging its edges and exposed threads.
The following options are available for unscrewing a stuck nut:
- apply heat to the nut (preferably until red and repeatedly);
- apply a penetrating compound (WD-40, liquid wrench or their analogues) into the contact gap between the nut and the thread of the bolt (stud), wait the time required for the product to work (from 20 minutes or more depending on the condition of the fastener and the activity of the product);
- increase the force impact on unscrewing by increasing the lever for applying forces through the use of an extended tool (or an extension attachment on a tool of normal length);
- use a special device - a torque amplifier (another name is a torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
- use a pipe wrench, holding the nut with it and applying force in the direction of unscrewing;
- clamp the nut in a rigidly fixed vice and unscrew it, rotating the entire part or assembly, if possible;
- clamp a small separate vice and try to unscrew the nut with it;
- use a pneumatic impact wrench;
- drill out the threaded rod on which the nut is stuck.
How to unscrew a broken nut
Damage to the edges (their breakdown) causes serious difficulties. There are several main solutions in this case:
- use a Super Lock head (acts on planes, not on edges);
- hold the torn nut in a pipe wrench (in a vice, clamp, pliers, etc.) and unscrew it;
- hammer a suitable larger nut on top of the nut with licked edges, the inner diameter of which allows it to be tightly seated; for additional fixation, drill a recess in the area of contact of the nuts, inserting a metal rod there (a piece of a drill and a piece of nail) as a key to prevent rotation) and unscrew the fastener using a tool that matches the size of the nut of larger diameter with working edges;
- put on a nut of larger diameter, weld both nuts together using a semi-automatic welding machine (covering the thread of the stud or bolt with a tube with a suitable wall thickness), unscrew the large nut together with the welded small one.
How to unscrew a round nut
For round nuts, when the edges are cut and smoothed completely by previous unsuccessful attempts, or the nut was made in this form initially, several approaches can also be applied:
- fit a standard hex nut of larger diameter into tension on it and drill a hole and a key that prevents rotation at the line of their contact and unscrew it using the large nut;
- if the side surface is of sufficient height, use a special tool - a pin driver;
- put a square washer of large thickness (comparable to the height of the nut) on the round nut, cut on one side and with the internal diameter of the washer exactly corresponding to the outer diameter of the round nut, clamp the nut with a pipe wrench or a vice, giving in to compression, the nut in the cut will select a gap until it tightly covers the surface round nut, unscrew the fastener.
How to unscrew a nut while heating it
Heating the nut is often an affordable, simple and effective method. When the metal is heated, the threaded surface of the nut expands, the corrosive bond is somewhat destroyed and the grip on the thread of the bolt or stud weakens.
For heating, you can use any suitable heat source: matches, wax candle, lighter, gas canister burner, blowtorch, gas cutter (carefully, at a sufficient distance so as not to melt the fasteners), etc.
If possible, it is better to heat the nut until red hot and unscrew it. If it doesn’t work the first time, then heating should be repeated several times. This may be especially true for nuts mounted on a special tool - a thread locker.
How to unscrew a nut with soaking
Loosening fasteners with soaking is a further development of the relatively quick (20 minutes or a little more) application of special penetrating compounds.
The threaded part of the nut, as a rule, is not very tall, so if there is sufficient time for a long immersion in a penetrating or chemically active composition against rust, it is an effective solution.
There are two main approaches:
- generously moisten the rusty fastener in the thread area with an active agent, wrap the accessible threaded shank of a bolt or stud in the nut area with a rag soaked in this agent or place it on top of the end (if the shank does not protrude beyond the plane of the nut), cover it with cellophane or rubber and wrap it;
- Immerse the fastener completely in the chemical.
The following chemicals can be used:
- penetrating compounds, in addition to the previously mentioned WD-40 and Liquid Key, kerosene, gasoline, carburetor cleaner, lock defroster and others can be used;
- rust converter;
- compounds that are chemically active against rust - table vinegar, iodine, alcohol, Coca-Cola, etc.
How to unscrew a large nut
For large nuts, 6 main methods can be effective:
- use a special tool that is designed for repair and maintenance of agricultural machinery, tractors and special equipment - torque amplifier (other names - torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
- use a wrench with a long handle or a socket with a long wrench that matches the size of the nut (if necessary, use a special extension or put a pipe of a suitable size on the rotating outer end;
- in the absence of a suitable size key or head, cut a notch in a strong metal strip from one edge strictly according to the distance of the parallel edges of the nut, thereby creating an individual key for a large nut;
- use a chisel and hammer to strike the edge of the nut in the direction of unscrewing;
- Electrically weld a metal rod (optionally a corner, channel or other profile) to a large nut as a T-shaped or L-shaped handle, which you can use to unscrew it;
- if the threaded end of the bolt or stud does not protrude beyond the outer surface of the nut, then you can drill 2 recesses in the large nut from this side, then drill 2 holes at the same distance in a strip of thick metal (angle or other profile), align the holes and insert into them metal rods, apply force to unscrew (the rods will act as shear keys, transmitting torque to the nut).
When deciding how to unscrew a large nut, you must proceed from the need to maintain the integrity of the nut.
How to unscrew a plastic nut
Plastic nuts, as a rule, differ in the shape and size of their working surfaces from ordinary metal nuts. The flexibility of the material limits, although does not always exclude, the use of a tool that compresses on both sides (pipe wrench, vice, etc.) - it is necessary to cover as much of the perimeter as possible.
You can unscrew the plastic nut:
- a special factory-made wrench, the working surface of which follows the profile of the perimeter of the nut;
- a self-made key;
- a puller for automobile oil filters, which firmly surround the circumference with a steel tape or several metal legs (the stronger the applied force, the stronger the coverage);
- press wooden blocks and two opposite sides against the protrusions of the plastic nut and simultaneously hit the two of them with hammers in the direction of unscrewing;
- for a small diameter - with pliers with a wide opening;
- pipe (gas) wrench.
How to unscrew a nut in a hard-to-reach place
To work with hard-to-reach fasteners, use a special tool:
- wrench or ratchet with a short handle;
- ratchet with a large number of teeth in the mechanism (gives a small angle of rotation, which is important in cramped conditions);
- extensions to heads;
- flexible drives for heads.
How to unscrew a nut with its destruction or damage
In the most hopeless cases, when all available methods and tools have failed, the fastening remains to be separated by destroying the fastener:
- placing the chisel against the edges of the nut, hit it with a hammer in the direction of unscrewing;
- cut off the fasteners using a power tool with a cutting wheel;
- cut with a hand hacksaw;
- destroy the nut by drilling numerous holes;
- cut the nut with a chisel and hammer (easier after pre-drilling the holes);
- use a tool specially created for this purpose - a nut;
- put on a larger nut, weld both nuts together around the perimeter using a semi-automatic welding machine (covering the threaded part of the bolt or stud with a tube with sufficient wall thickness to prevent welding into one), unscrew the large nut with a wrench.
Conclusion
When deciding how to unscrew a nut, it is very wise to immediately use a suitable effective tool and carry out preliminary preparations taking into account the condition of the fastener. Unprepared use of brute force with an unsuitable tool can most likely lead to damage to the edges of the nut, breakage of the stud or tool.
Before unscrewing the nut, you should clean the threaded part of the stud or bolt, apply a penetrating compound and only then apply force. Using the techniques described in this article, even the most difficult cases can have a positive outcome if you spend some extra time on preparation.
Returning to this article when needed, you can find the necessary hint in the answer to the question of how to unscrew the nut of the engine crankshaft, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and other components and assemblies.
In this article we will tell you how to unscrew a stuck nut, a rusty nut, a nut with torn edges or a completely round one. Cases with non-standard nuts - plastic and large - are analyzed separately.
The material also describes the most suitable tool, incl. a special tool professionally used to work with fasteners.
The material is useful for those who intend to unscrew the fasteners of the engine crankshaft, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and other components and assemblies of a car, motorcycle or other equipment.
How to unscrew a nut
As a rule, nuts are unscrewed with hand tools - spanners or open-end wrenches, heads using a wrench or ratchet. However, problematic situations often occur.
How to unscrew a nut when the nut cannot be unscrewed with a regular tool using the usual application of force? In this situation, you should choose from the available tool the one that suits best:
- thin short open-end wrenches, especially with a too loose (broken) jaw, are the worst option, which is better to abandon immediately in a situation with unscrewing rusty stuck nuts (open-end wrenches will lead to torn edges and further difficulties);
- box wrenches with an extended handle are preferable to open-end wrenches, since they cover the perimeter of the nut more tightly;
- A 6-point socket wrench or socket is preferred over the 12-point versions;
- Due to its simplicity and strength, a crank is preferable to a ratchet, because for the latter, the application of increased forces can lead to damage to the mechanism (this is especially true for ratchets with a large number of teeth, each of which is smaller and not so durable);
- an air impact wrench will do a better job than a hand tool;
- in combination with a long wrench or an air impact wrench, the best solution would be the Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (edges), but to the planes, which eliminates the licking of the nut edges;
- A torque amplifier (multiplier) will help apply a force to a large stuck nut that is inaccessible using only the physical capabilities of a person.
Which way to unscrew the nut
In the vast majority of cases, the fastener has a right-hand thread direction: you need to unscrew the nut counterclockwise (we look at the nut from the side of the free threaded end of the bolt or stud through which you need to drive the nut).
Accordingly, unscrew the nut with a left-hand thread clockwise.
When deciding which way to unscrew the nut, just look carefully at the fasteners:
- on the side you can see the inclination of the threads at a small angle - unscrew the nut in the direction in which the thread “rises”;
- even if the threaded part is not visible, you can see the desired direction along the end of the nut at the point where the last turn of its internal thread exits.
How to unscrew a stuck nut
In order to unscrew a stuck nut, we recommend performing several preliminary preparatory operations:
- clean the fasteners from rust and dirt with a wire brush;
- tap the nut around with a hammer without damaging its edges and exposed threads.
The following options are available for unscrewing a stuck nut:
- apply heat to the nut (preferably until red and repeatedly);
- apply a penetrating compound (WD-40, liquid wrench or their analogues) into the contact gap between the nut and the thread of the bolt (stud), wait the time required for the product to work (from 20 minutes or more depending on the condition of the fastener and the activity of the product);
- increase the force impact on unscrewing by increasing the lever for applying forces through the use of an extended tool (or an extension attachment on a tool of normal length);
- use a special device - a torque amplifier (another name is a torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
- use a pipe wrench, holding the nut with it and applying force in the direction of unscrewing;
- clamp the nut in a rigidly fixed vice and unscrew it, rotating the entire part or assembly, if possible;
- clamp a small separate vice and try to unscrew the nut with it;
- use a pneumatic impact wrench;
- drill out the threaded rod on which the nut is stuck.
How to unscrew a broken nut
Damage to the edges (their breakdown) causes serious difficulties. There are several main solutions in this case:
- use a Super Lock head (acts on planes, not on edges);
- hold the torn nut in a pipe wrench (in a vice, clamp, pliers, etc.) and unscrew it;
- hammer a suitable larger nut on top of the nut with licked edges, the inner diameter of which allows it to be tightly seated; for additional fixation, drill a recess in the area of contact of the nuts, inserting a metal rod there (a piece of a drill and a piece of nail) as a key to prevent rotation) and unscrew the fastener using a tool that matches the size of the nut of larger diameter with working edges;
- put on a nut of larger diameter, weld both nuts together using a semi-automatic welding machine (covering the thread of the stud or bolt with a tube with a suitable wall thickness), unscrew the large nut together with the welded small one.
How to unscrew a round nut
For round nuts, when the edges are cut and smoothed completely by previous unsuccessful attempts, or the nut was made in this form initially, several approaches can also be applied:
- fit a standard hex nut of larger diameter into tension on it and drill a hole and a key that prevents rotation at the line of their contact and unscrew it using the large nut;
- if the side surface is of sufficient height, use a special tool - a pin driver;
- put a square washer of large thickness (comparable to the height of the nut) on the round nut, cut on one side and with the internal diameter of the washer exactly corresponding to the outer diameter of the round nut, clamp the nut with a pipe wrench or a vice, giving in to compression, the nut in the cut will select a gap until it tightly covers the surface round nut, unscrew the fastener.
How to unscrew a nut while heating it
Heating the nut is often an affordable, simple and effective method. When the metal is heated, the threaded surface of the nut expands, the corrosive bond is somewhat destroyed and the grip on the thread of the bolt or stud weakens.
For heating, you can use any suitable heat source: matches, wax candle, lighter, gas canister burner, blowtorch, gas cutter (carefully, at a sufficient distance so as not to melt the fasteners), etc.
If possible, it is better to heat the nut until red hot and unscrew it. If it doesn’t work the first time, then heating should be repeated several times. This may be especially true for nuts mounted on a special tool - a thread locker.
How to unscrew a nut with soaking
Loosening fasteners with soaking is a further development of the relatively quick (20 minutes or a little more) application of special penetrating compounds.
The threaded part of the nut, as a rule, is not very tall, so if there is sufficient time for a long immersion in a penetrating or chemically active composition against rust, it is an effective solution.
There are two main approaches:
- generously moisten the rusty fastener in the thread area with an active agent, wrap the accessible threaded shank of a bolt or stud in the nut area with a rag soaked in this agent or place it on top of the end (if the shank does not protrude beyond the plane of the nut), cover it with cellophane or rubber and wrap it;
- Immerse the fastener completely in the chemical.
The following chemicals can be used:
- penetrating compounds, in addition to the previously mentioned WD-40 and Liquid Key, kerosene, gasoline, carburetor cleaner, lock defroster and others can be used;
- rust converter;
- compounds that are chemically active against rust - table vinegar, iodine, alcohol, Coca-Cola, etc.
How to unscrew a large nut
For large nuts, 6 main methods can be effective:
- use a special tool that is designed for repair and maintenance of agricultural machinery, tractors and special equipment - torque amplifier (other names - torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
- use a wrench with a long handle or a socket with a long wrench that matches the size of the nut (if necessary, use a special extension or put a pipe of a suitable size on the rotating outer end;
- in the absence of a suitable size key or head, cut a notch in a strong metal strip from one edge strictly according to the distance of the parallel edges of the nut, thereby creating an individual key for a large nut;
- use a chisel and hammer to strike the edge of the nut in the direction of unscrewing;
- Electrically weld a metal rod (optionally a corner, channel or other profile) to a large nut as a T-shaped or L-shaped handle, which you can use to unscrew it;
- if the threaded end of the bolt or stud does not protrude beyond the outer surface of the nut, then you can drill 2 recesses in the large nut from this side, then drill 2 holes at the same distance in a strip of thick metal (angle or other profile), align the holes and insert into them metal rods, apply force to unscrew (the rods will act as shear keys, transmitting torque to the nut).
When deciding how to unscrew a large nut, you must proceed from the need to maintain the integrity of the nut.
How to unscrew a plastic nut
Plastic nuts, as a rule, differ in the shape and size of their working surfaces from ordinary metal nuts. The flexibility of the material limits, although does not always exclude, the use of a tool that compresses on both sides (pipe wrench, vice, etc.) - it is necessary to cover as much of the perimeter as possible.
You can unscrew the plastic nut:
- a special factory-made wrench, the working surface of which follows the profile of the perimeter of the nut;
- a self-made key;
- a puller for automobile oil filters, which firmly surround the circumference with a steel tape or several metal legs (the stronger the applied force, the stronger the coverage);
- press wooden blocks and two opposite sides against the protrusions of the plastic nut and simultaneously hit the two of them with hammers in the direction of unscrewing;
- for a small diameter - with pliers with a wide opening;
- pipe (gas) wrench.
How to unscrew a nut in a hard-to-reach place
To work with hard-to-reach fasteners, use a special tool:
- wrench or ratchet with a short handle;
- ratchet with a large number of teeth in the mechanism (gives a small angle of rotation, which is important in cramped conditions);
- extensions to heads;
- flexible drives for heads.
How to unscrew a nut with its destruction or damage
In the most hopeless cases, when all available methods and tools have failed, the fastening remains to be separated by destroying the fastener:
- placing the chisel against the edges of the nut, hit it with a hammer in the direction of unscrewing;
- cut off the fasteners using a power tool with a cutting wheel;
- cut with a hand hacksaw;
- destroy the nut by drilling numerous holes;
- cut the nut with a chisel and hammer (easier after pre-drilling the holes);
- use a tool specially created for this purpose - a nut;
- put on a larger nut, weld both nuts together around the perimeter using a semi-automatic welding machine (covering the threaded part of the bolt or stud with a tube with sufficient wall thickness to prevent welding into one), unscrew the large nut with a wrench.
Conclusion
When deciding how to unscrew a nut, it is very wise to immediately use a suitable effective tool and carry out preliminary preparations taking into account the condition of the fastener. Unprepared use of brute force with an unsuitable tool can most likely lead to damage to the edges of the nut, breakage of the stud or tool.
Before unscrewing the nut, you should clean the threaded part of the stud or bolt, apply a penetrating compound and only then apply force. Using the techniques described in this article, even the most difficult cases can have a positive outcome if you spend some extra time on preparation.
Returning to this article when needed, you can find the necessary hint in the answer to the question of how to unscrew the nut of the engine crankshaft, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and other components and assemblies.
The widespread tightening of belts forces one to remember or master methods of self-repairing a car. We will learn how to deal with and unscrew stuck bolts and nuts at home from this article.
In order to unscrew a broken pin or unscrew a rusted nut or bolt, sometimes you have to work hard. Let's look at the main methods of dealing with intractable fasteners. It is useful to tap a stuck nut with a hammer, placing a heavy metal support under the side opposite to the impact. Thus, it is often possible to move it left to right and move the stuck nut out of place.
A good result is obtained by soaking rusty threads using an easily penetrating lubricant. This can be unisma, wd40, kerosene and in some cases even vinegar. You just need to be patient and wait until the liquid penetrates into the joint. If possible, leave the capricious fasteners overnight.
To remove rust and dirt, it is a good idea to clean the fasteners with a wire brush.
If the edges of the bolt are torn off and rounded, you can try to move the fastener from its place by hitting a chisel with a hammer. We set the chisel tangentially and carefully hit it, thus unscrewing the bolt or nut. You can use a sharp chisel to cut the nut and this is also an option. However, for such purposes there is a more convenient device. Using ring clamps with a sharpened wedge, easily accessible nuts are simply cut.
An effective way to loosen fasteners is to preheat them until red hot. The easiest way to do this is with a gas canister supplemented with a special nozzle. Such a miniature analogue can always come in handy on the farm. For example, it is not difficult for them to dry the flooded spark plugs of a car. 
If your stud or bolt has broken off and is sticking out from the outside, at least a small piece can try welding a nut of the appropriate size to it. Now you will have something to grab onto. In addition, during the welding process, additional heating will occur, which in turn will weaken the grip of the stuck joint. Well, if the fragment is inside, then it will have to be drilled out. In this case, it is important to accurately mark the center of the installation site for the first drill with a small diameter. Then you need to sequentially go through the fragment with enlarged drills until a thin wall remains. The rest of the fastener is usually easily turned out using the so-called extractor or a faceted tool driven inside, for example the same screwdriver. Of course, drilling is a troublesome task, but the result is important here. After all, you won’t replace the body of an expensive unit because of one broken pin. 
Well, now we’ve learned how to unscrew rusty fasteners. Surely everyone has encountered this problem.
Articles 1445
Anyone who repairs their car themselves often faces the following problem: how to loosen a rusty bolt or nut. Metal oxide increases the size of the nut, making it almost impossible to unscrew it. And you need to unscrew it carefully so as not to damage the thread, part or mechanism.
Oxidized and rusted connections are a constant headache for car enthusiasts, especially if the car has a long enough lifespan.
What are the possible solutions?
You can find various tips on the forums:
What's the result?
Wasted nerves, effort, time and a high risk of damaging the threaded connection and part.
The civilized solution is penetrating lubricant.
Let's look at a specific example of how to unscrew a rusty bolt at home on the rear suspension arm.
Before listening to advice on forums and using force, use penetrating lubricant Liquid wrench “PITON”.
This is special with aerosol solution for rusty bolts. A powerful jet penetrates into the most inaccessible places, dissolves rust and scale, and displaces moisture. Liquid Key lubricant forms a protective film that prevents the formation of rust in the future.
How and with what to lubricate a rusty bolt in order to unscrew it?
1. Stir the contents of the container for about 2 minutes. From a distance of 20 cm we apply aerosol Liquid key to the area around the connection.
A special nozzle allows you to penetrate hard-to-reach places. We wait for 3 minutes for the product to penetrate deep into the connection.
2. Unscrew the nut. If the first attempt fails to unwind, apply PITON lubricant again.
3. Easily unscrew the connection without even exerting effort.
Lubrication PITON Liquid key didn't disappoint!
Penetrating lubricant with rust converter “PITON”— a civilized way to solve problems when repairing a car and in everyday life.
The choice is yours: listen to difficult advice or buy lubricant “Liquid Key” to deal with rusty components easily and without damage.
Each of us, at least those who have been involved in car repairs, various metal structures with bolts, etc.
How to unscrew a rusty bolt or nut
I was faced with the problem of rusted bolts. For motorists, this problem is more familiar, since there are a lot of threaded connections in the car that are operated under harsh environmental conditions, when the bolt and nut are constantly exposed to moisture.
Moisture reaching the surface bolts and nuts, under the influence of an oxygen environment, the iron oxidizes and the material of the nut at the thread begins to fuse with the material of the bolt. During the process of metal oxidation, the volume of oxides increases significantly compared to the volume of the original metal. As a result, the connection between the bolt and the nut becomes jammed.
The more time passes, the more the connection rusts and the stronger the bond between the bolt and nut. Taking into account the different designs of bolted connections, it often becomes necessary to unscrew a rusted bolt and not cut it off, for example, with a grinder.
And we want to talk about how to unscrew a rusty bolt in this article. In our article, we tried to describe all the main methods of unscrewing corroded bolts.
Methods for unscrewing rusted bolts
So, having tried to unscrew the nut, you realized that it does not unscrew even with the application of too much force. Firstly, do not panic and try to unscrew the nut using force. This risks causing you to simply tear off the head of the bolt or nut. Alternatively, you can ruin the wrench, especially if you try to unscrew a rusty threaded connection using a classic open-end wrench.
If you use an open-end wrench, replace it with a socket or socket head. The second type of wrench, unlike the open-end wrench, fits more tightly to the bolt head, and most importantly, it comes into contact with the edges of the nut over a larger area.
After the key is selected, it is necessary to clean the connection area from rust. To do this, you can use both mechanical tools (nail, awl) and liquids (kerosene, brake fluid, gasoline, special rust removers, tap water, etc.).
A very good remedy is such a popular drink as Coca-Cola. This is what motorists in America use. Due to its chemical composition, it peels off rust very well. Liquid is preferable, as it penetrates deep into the threaded connection and separates the rust mass into layers, which reduces the strength of the connection between the bolt and the nut. After you have applied the necessary liquid to the threaded connection, you need to wait 10-15 minutes.
Next, use a socket wrench and try to carefully apply a lot of force (you can try to lengthen the lever by cutting off a pipe). The main thing is not to overdo it and not to rip off the bolt head. You need to unscrew it as follows: apply force in small jerks with a gradual increase in force. As a rule, the bolt gradually gives way.
If the corrosion is very severe, the above remedies may not lead to a positive result. In this case, you can use a hammer and chisel. The chisel is placed on the edge of the bolt head at an angle in the direction of the thread and with sharp, gentle blows we try to knock the bolt down so that it rotates. Similarly, you can try knocking on a wrench placed on a head or nut, the main thing is to calculate the force of the impact so as not to break the bolt or key or “lick” the head.
Another good way to remove a rusted bolt is the heating method. As you know from physics lessons at school, metal expands under the influence of heat. If you heat the bolt very well, the threaded connection will loosen a little and you need to unscrew it before it cools down.
You can heat the bolted joint using a gas torch or blowtorch. However, during the heating process, be careful not to start a fire.
After heating, you need to hit the heated elements several times with a hammer and try to unscrew the connection.
Unscrewing a rusty bolt or nut can be quite nerve-wracking.
A person who has never faced the problem of how to unscrew a rusty, soured bolt or a tightly stuck nut cannot even convey how much time, effort and nerves this sometimes seemingly futile task can take. Sometimes you just give up, and the only way out seems to be the “grinder”, which allows you to resolve the issue, albeit radically, but quickly. But often even she is not able to help and threatens only to aggravate the situation, creating problems of a different kind.
Is it possible? unscrew the problematic bolt or rusty nut without resorting to emergency measures? Car enthusiasts know this issue best. They are the ones who most often encounter similar situations and can give practical advice by sharing successful experiences and recipes from their own arsenal of remedies. Let's consider the available options.
Lever arm
This is the first thing you can do if you need to unscrew a rusty nut or capricious bolt.
A steel pipe placed on a key is used as a lever device. You should first go over the fasteners and around them thoroughly with a brush with metal bristles. It is better to use a spanner wrench, but in extreme cases an open-end wrench will do. Everything needs to be done carefully. The main thing is not to overdo it. Excessive force is unacceptable, as the result may be a torn bolt head, licked nut ribs or a broken key.
Chisel
Here we are not talking about simply cutting off a rusty nut or the head of a tight bolt. With a chisel and one sharp blow of a hammer, you can tear stubborn fasteners out of the tenacious embrace of rust. To do this, you need to point the chisel closer to the edge of the bolt or nut at an angle in the direction opposite to the thread, and then strike sharply and firmly with a hammer. Using this technology, experienced craftsmen masterfully remove any, sometimes even the most hopeless, nut or bolt with one blow. Of course, you still need to grow to such professionalism, but the method works.
Tapping
This operation, which does not require special skills and deep knowledge of theoretical mechanics, can be either a solution to the problem or a preparatory step to solving the problem of unscrewing a rusty bolt or nut. In any case, two or three sharp blows with a hammer on the fastener through a non-ferrous metal attachment will not do any harm. This action will help destroy oxide layers and make the task much easier.
Loosening
Perhaps, during the process of unscrewing, a rusty bolt or an unruly nut has already moved along the thread by a couple of microns, but this moment, of course, cannot be noticed. Therefore, you need to try to tighten the fasteners even more and try to loosen them again. This technique allows you to destroy oxide formations and, gradually loosening, unscrew the threaded connection.
Warming up
You should try to achieve the desired result by heating the capricious fasteners. Everything will do here - a gas torch, a soldering iron, a pocket lighter. You can even use rags soaked in gasoline or other flammable liquid, but this should be done carefully, following safety rules. Without waiting for the old nut or rusty bolt head to cool down, you need to try to unscrew them. The best choice for these purposes is not an open-end wrench, but a box or socket wrench. If you don’t succeed the first time, you can try combining techniques - tapping well, loosening, using a lever.
WD-40
“Spray it with Vedashka” - this is how any garage will respond to a complaint about a problematic bolt or capricious nut. And they will be absolutely right. A better remedy has not yet been invented. Its exact recipe remains a mystery, but it is known for certain that the liquid consists of 50% white spirit. To unscrew soured fasteners, you first need to open access to the threads by treating the area around the bolt or nut with a wire brush, and then generously fill the fasteners with “magic” liquid, spraying it from a spray can. After 15-20 minutes you can try to unscrew it. This remedy is really effective and almost always helps.
Gasoline, kerosene, turpentine and others
Unfortunately, WD-40 is not always on hand, and buying a can because of one rusty nut or bolt is not the best solution in terms of savings. Therefore, it is worth trying some petroleum products - from white spirit to turpentine. All of them have high penetrating power and are solvents. This property will help in the event of a threaded connection becoming clogged with dirt of various natures. The procedure is standard - the area around the fastener is cleaned and filled with kerosene, diesel fuel, or gasoline. After 10-15 minutes, when the liquid penetrates deep into the thread, you can try to twist the bolt or nut.
Vinegar
A rusty bolt or nut that does not want to be unscrewed can be brought back to obedience by table vinegar. To do this, wet the area of the threaded connection with vinegar and wait 15 to 30 minutes. If time is not limited, then you can simply cover the fasteners with a rag soaked in vinegar. In a couple of hours, vinegar will thoroughly undermine the rust and weaken the adhesion of the mating surfaces in the fasteners. After such a “compress”, the rusty bolt or nut will at first reluctantly, and then become easier and easier to unscrew.
Coca-Cola
This is not a joke for people far from technology, and not news for specialists. Coca-Cola contains orthophosphoric acid, which is effectively used in production for degreasing, soldering, and cleaning rust from metal surfaces. The procedure is still the same. The fasteners are cleaned and watered with fashionable “fizzy water”. In the meantime, while the problematic bolt or nut is soaking, there is time to think about what kind of crap some of us drink with pleasure, considering it almost an elixir of health.
Rust converter
Such products are made on the basis of acids that destroy iron oxide. To use them effectively, it is better to moisten a piece of rag in the converter, cover the bolt or nut being unscrewed with it and leave it for several hours. Before doing this, it is advisable to degrease the fasteners well with gasoline, kerosene or some other solvent. The converter “breaks” the rust well and the threaded connection unscrews.
Brake fluid
Fresh or already used - it doesn’t matter, the brake fluid helps a lot. It has a high penetrating and lubricating ability, and therefore, if necessary, you can safely use it to unscrew a rusty nut or a tight, unruly bolt.
It’s better, of course, to moisten a piece of rag with brake fluid, cover the soured fasteners and wait an hour or two. During this time, the liquid will seep into the thread and the connection will be easier to unscrew.
Alcohol solution of iodine
We are talking about the idea of an ordinary pharmaceutical alcohol solution of iodine. In this tandem, alcohol, also known as ethylene, and iodine, as an element of the periodic table, equally distribute among themselves the functions of freeing fasteners that have become soured in rust. Alcohol has a high penetrating ability, and iodine interacts with iron oxides and other iron compounds formed upon contact with the external environment. Thus, these two substances weaken the rust, making it easier to free the rusted bolt or nut. To avoid getting your hands dirty and for convenience, it is better to apply iodine to the connection using a syringe.
How to unscrew a nut with torn edges, a rusted nut or a nut that is stuck tightly? Anyone who has held a wrench in their hands has encountered this problem. There are several ways to solve this problem:
- Chemical - we wet the thread and nut (brake fluid, acetic acid, iodine, spray with WD) several times and wait until the solution defeats rust and oxides. But, I must admit, the method is tedious and not very effective. You can't wait;
2. Thermal - heat the nut red-hot and cool it sharply (for example, pour water on it). After this, about 90 percent of the time the nut is unscrewed. The method is effective, but not always possible (the nut may be located where fire or strong heat is strictly contraindicated);
3. Surgical - we cut the body of the nut with a grinder, drill it with a drill, chop it with a chisel (if we can get it close), in this case there is a high probability of damaging the pin or part that is fastened with this nut, as well as the fingers or anything else found in the area of the operation. The method is effective, but risky and not always possible;
4. Masochistic - using a hacksaw blade (like the Count of Monte Cristo) we saw off an intractable nut until we conquered it or our patience. The great and mighty Russian language, as well as idiomatic phrases of other well-known dialects and adverbs, will help. The method is reliable and sometimes the only one possible in hard-to-reach places;
5. Fantastic - we won’t consider it;
6. Realistic - use a special tool-device, a nutcutter, also called a nutcutter or a nutcutter. An elegant solution to breaking nuts that saves time and profanity while preserving studs and bolts. The method is not without its drawbacks; there are places where the developers and designers have placed nuts that cannot be reached with a nut cutter, but the excitement continues.
How does a nut work?
Like everything ingenious, this is the simplest use of the chisel principle, allowing you to split nuts with minimal effort without damaging the bolts and studs.
The device is placed over the nut, and it is clamped between the cutting edge of the chisel, when moving the chisel, the nut not only splits, but also unbends. If the nut is very rusty and one break is not enough to remove it, we break the face opposite.
How does a nut cutter work?
The housing, which is placed over the nut in the form of a ring, can be with a slot, the cutting knife (chisel) is movable or stationary. The knife drive can be mechanical or hydraulic.
Mechanical is much cheaper, but if you don’t cut nuts every day, then this is the best choice. While monitoring the network, I found this set of nut cutters in three sizes: 9–12 mm with a 12 mm wrench; 12–16 mm with a 14 mm wrench; 16–22 mm with a 19 mm wrench.
