The design of a local area often includes work on arranging a decorative and at the same time physically resistant floor. The most advantageous covering is considered to be a terrace laid out with special boards. Other materials can be used, but the wood texture makes this type of flooring the optimal solution. Due to the specific nature of the use of such sites, technologists have developed appropriate rules according to which decking boards are installed. Do-it-yourself installation requires serious preparation of the design site and compliance with installation nuances. Do not forget that the terrace is a street surface, which is why it is also subject to mechanical loads from shoes when walking.
Benefits of using wood
Stone, porcelain stoneware and clinker are rightfully considered the best finishing materials in terms of protection against mechanical damage. Wood traditionally wins due to its unique texture and texture, as well as ease of processing.
However, modern impregnations and protective compounds make it possible to bring wood closer to solid coatings in terms of physical resistance. In addition, the technology for laying decking boards involves the use of special species that are resistant to abrasion and deformation. In addition, there are special models of boards that have a corrugated surface. The presence of longitudinal grooves, in particular, ensures free flow of water. As a result, the terrace dries out faster, eliminating harmful processes caused by moisture.
Decking
In the classical sense, deck boards are a natural material made from solid wood. But in recent years, special composite analogues called decking are increasingly being used for such tasks, through which decking boards are laid in an equally high-quality manner. Larch also does not lose its relevance, but in terms of practicality and ease of installation, artificial substitutes still outperform it. As a rule, these are hollow boards made of sawdust and polymer composite mixtures. Decking is durable, easy to maintain, resistant to abrasion and allows you to easily dismantle the laid covering.
In addition to strength advantages, decking functionality can also be highlighted. Modern models provide the same grooves for drainage and a rough surface. The photo below of laying the decking board also allows you to see how easy it is to install.
What boards should I use?
The choice of wood or decking is quite reasonable, but when purchasing, other criteria arise for selecting the board itself, its design features and standard size. First of all, the availability is taken into account. This is, again, a corrugated board, which has a special top layer and is marked with the letter R. In terms of size, the choice depends on the laying area and the base on which the decking board will be laid.
Laying methods vary and may involve fixation on a concrete base, soil, reinforced concrete slab, etc. The standard is considered to be a material 3 cm thick, about 5 m long and 15 cm wide. However, you should not assume that excess thickness will necessarily be beneficial. The minimum limit is 2 cm and, provided the logs are laid correctly, this will be enough. An increase in thickness can lead to a large difference in levels relative to other coatings, which will necessitate additional sealing of transitions and thresholds.
Preparing the walls
The main preparatory work relates to the base, but the walls adjacent to the coating should also be prepared accordingly. Since splashes from the terrace during rain can wet the plinth, it must be protected. To do this, at a height of 20 cm from the ground, the wall is decorated with moisture-resistant cladding. It is recommended that the material also matches the texture of the decking board. Do-it-yourself installation is carried out taking into account expansion joints, which are filled with elastic materials, silicone grouts and sealants. The upper edges of the base also need to be sealed. This is also done using acrylic or silicone sealants.
Preparing the base
Compliance with the technology involves laying on a flat base. The board is very capricious in harsh operating conditions, so a reliable platform will be a good guarantee of durability. Depending on the scale of installation, one of two methods of creating a base can be chosen - a carefully compacted covering of gravel, crushed stone and a supporting frame, or a full-fledged concrete pad.
If you choose a plan for laying decking boards that does not include it, you should excavate unstable soil. After this, a layer of mineral concrete or crushed stone is filled in and compacted by vibration. Next, a bed of gravel and sand up to 5 cm high is poured. But to ensure maximum reliability of the terrace, it is still worth providing point supports in the form of concrete slabs. The standard size of the elements can be as follows: 30 cm in length and width, and 4 cm in height.
Laying lags
Installation logs in the terrace covering system act as a substrate, connecting point concrete supports and the boards themselves. Their fixation is ensured by dowels and stainless steel screws. Since the rules for laying decking boards require a flat base surface, the fasteners must have a countersunk head. The logs are drilled in the center, after which the screw head is sunk into the formed niche. To screw the logs to the concrete slab, dowel nails with a standard size of 0.8 x 8 cm are used. The joints between the logs can be realized using two methods:
- due to the displacement of the elements between themselves by a distance of 15 cm;
- using the “joint to joint” technique, maintaining a gap of at least 3 cm.
Gaps are also left between the joists and fixed surfaces in the form of walls and curbs. This gap is also at least 3 cm. If the logs are installed perpendicular to the direction of the drain, then small gaps should be left during the installation process. They are arranged according to the principle of steps to facilitate the flow of water.
Laying deck boards
The boards must be nailed to the joists, maintaining an interval of 1 cm. Gaps must be left so that the wood can “work” freely. This makes for a more reliable and durable installation of decking boards. The instructions stipulate that the cracks will allow the board to dry better and swell freely when in contact with rainwater without deformation. For fastening, you can use stainless self-tapping screws, brass screws, and in some cases it is also possible. There is also a method of lower fastening, in which traces of external fixation are not visible. But for this it is necessary to use plastic logs that do not absorb moisture. As a rule, these are special kits designed for constructing a terrace.
Expansion seams
When working with wood, expansion joints are especially important because insufficient joints can lead to bends and cracks. This is especially important when laying larch decking boards. The instructions in this case include filling the seams with edging tape or polystyrene foam. The sealing is carried out vertically, filling the joints between the wall and the board. When calculating the filling height, it is important to take into account that the gap can compensate for temperature deformation, not only for the wood itself, but also for the concrete slab.
The standard seam width is 1.5 cm. They also serve as coating dividers into rectangles or squares. In this case, the frequency of the gaps should vary in the range of 2-5 m. The choice of step size is also influenced by the side of the world where the decking boards are planned to be laid. The instructions say that the greatest heating of the boards is usually observed on the southwestern and southern sides. Accordingly, in such places it is advisable to make seams at intervals of 2 m.
Ventilation
The coating must also have good air circulation. To do this, only one rule must be observed: free niches in the space where the logs are in contact with the base slabs must remain unoccupied. This ensures unhindered ventilation in the voids of the support system underneath. But this only applies to cases with concrete slabs or other supports on which logs and the decking board itself are installed. Do-it-yourself laying on the ground also involves the introduction of demarcating stone borders into the design. Direct contact of the board covering and logs with the lawn or ground is not allowed. For optimal circulation, in any case, it is necessary to provide open gaps of 3 cm around the perimeter of the terrace.
Sealing the ends
At the final stage of installation, the covering formed by the boards is given a solid decorative appearance. The surfaces of the profiles at the ends are covered with corners, as well as F-shaped elements. You can use special strips made of polymers for these purposes. For example, for a terrace, polypropylene or polyethylene may be the optimal solution. The end angle made of WPC 3 x 3 x 0.5 cm is fixed with self-tapping screws having a semicircular head and a standard size of 0.4 x 3 cm.
Performing these operations is important not only from the point of view of aesthetics, but also to increase the reliability of the coating - through high-quality sealing, you can eliminate the risk of cracks and other defects that occur with poorly laid decking boards. Do-it-yourself installation allows you to take a precise approach to the adjustment and correction of coating elements. However, it is advisable to perform these operations before embedding with end profiles and corners, otherwise the structure will be unstable.
Also, do not forget about the correspondence of the texture of the used limiters and profiles to the color of the flooring and wall. Often such elements are sold unpainted, so you should prepare a paint composition with a suitable shade in advance.
Seamless styling technique
This method of installing a terrace can only be carried out if special material is used. This is a decking that has a special profile for a seamless connection. The main fastening is also done using self-tapping screws. Installation is carried out either across the joists or diagonally - in both cases the reliability of the coating is quite high. In general, laying a seamless deck board involves connecting elements using the tongue-and-groove method.
After fixing the first board, the next one is installed so that the profiles match. The seamless fastening system has a more aesthetic appearance and does not require additional processing and protection. Depending on the characteristics of the decking, a coating with a durability of 20 years can be formed. The disadvantages of this installation include increased sealing, which causes ventilation to suffer. But this problem can also be solved by creating holes that are larger in diameter than the thickness of the screws. This, by the way, is also important for ensuring the possibility of thermal expansion of the board.
Conclusion
Those who decide to decorate their local area with an elegant and reliable terrace face many questions. This includes the choice of material, the determination of a laying pattern, as well as the search for a decorative solution. By and large, the answers to these questions will determine the quality characteristics of the terrace. The installation itself does not cause any particular difficulties, and if you follow the instructions for its implementation, then in the future the work done will not disappoint the home craftsman.
Today, wood-polymer composite deck boards are widely used for arranging terraces, verandas, swimming pools and other premises. This material combines the positive properties of wood and plastic. Shredded wood and purified polymer give the material high strength and efficiency. From the outside, decking resembles an ordinary wooden deck board, but its properties are significantly superior to it. At the same time, it can be painted, varnished and other compositions. First of all, you should understand the question of how to attach a plastic decking board.
Before fastening, you should determine a suitable place for laying the decking board. So, for loggias, balconies and other places with little traffic, you can choose medium-density material. This type of decking board is also used when arranging the area near the pool.
Important! Moisture resistance directly depends on the density of the flooring. Density also affects wear resistance. If you install a loose deck board in areas with high traffic, the material may become deformed.
Laying the flooring directly on the ground is not allowed. The deck boards are fastened to installed logs. They will perform a supporting function. If the selected location has uneven terrain, then preference is given to adjustable logs.
To prevent water from accumulating during rain, but rather from draining, when installing the logs, it is necessary to organize a slight slope in one direction. The pitch of laying the lag will depend on the thickness of the product. If it has a thickness of up to 20 mm, then the step between the logs should be 400 mm. With a thickness of 25 mm, the pitch between the logs increases to 600 mm.
Advice! During the installation process, it is necessary to cut the material in order to adjust it to size. It is recommended to treat all cut ends with wax emulsion.
To secure the decking, it is recommended to use stainless steel fasteners and fastening materials. There are two known ways to attach deck boards: hidden and covered. As for the closed one, it is rarely used, although it has a number of positive aspects, in particular, an improved appearance after completion of installation work.
Required materials and tools
Regardless of the chosen fastening method, you should prepare tools and material for installation work. First of all, you should worry about the availability of the following materials/tools:
- Support logs.
- Intermediate and initial staples.
- Galvanized self-tapping screws.
- Plugs.
- End finishing elements.
- Set of drills.
- Electric drill.
- Screwdriver.
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Pencil.
- Hand hacksaw.
This is a basic set of what is needed when fastening larch decking boards. As for cutting decking, you can use a hand saw, but some experts successfully use an electric one. This significantly increases the pace of work. Before mounting the board, it is recommended to pre-make mounting holes. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the material will crack when tightening the screw.
Calculation features
There are a number of requirements and features that are important to consider before starting installation work. The technology requires a gap between the flooring and the wall. At a minimum, the gap should be about 8 mm or more. If it is necessary to join the board lengthwise, then an indentation should also be made between the end parts. There are even certain standards, namely, with a flooring length of up to 400 cm, it is absent, with a length of up to 600 cm, 3 mm, and with a length over 600 cm, 0.45 cm. A gap is also required on the longitudinal side, which is about 2 mm. The peculiarity of the fasteners used allows one or another gap to be formed in advance.
Preparation
Before installation, the used larch decking board must lie in the open air to get used to the local climate. To do this, you need to unpack the packaging and leave it under a canopy for several days. Before you start fastening, you should immediately decide which method you will use - closed or open.
If the choice fell on open installation, then self-tapping screws made of galvanized steel and with an anti-corrosion coating are required. Preliminary markings are made and all holes are pre-drilled. After this, all the screws are screwed to the installed joists.
As for the closed method, all fasteners will be hidden under the flooring. For this purpose, special fasteners are used, also called clips. Preference should be given to metal fasteners with anti-corrosion coating. About 20 clips are usually consumed per 1 m2.
Plus, you need to decide exactly how the board will be laid evenly, diagonally or otherwise.
Advice! You should choose the installation method that will result in the least amount of waste in the form of trimmings.
Frame installation
Having completed all the preparatory and calculation work, the first step is to install the base under the terrace board. The base can be metal/aluminum beams, wooden logs or cement screed, which must be treated with bituminous material.
Advice! The base should be covered with a special material. This will protect the finished coating from the germination of grass and other plants.
Before fixing the decking, you should consider a water drainage system. For this reason, the installation of the logs should be carried out at a slight slope. For one linear meter, the slope should be no more than 1 cm. With all this, there should be no accumulation of moisture not only on the flooring itself, but also under it.
Installation work
Below we will consider the option of attaching decking boards to logs made of wood-polymer composite. The essence of the technology is that the boards are laid perpendicular to the installed joists. Considering that a larger percentage of the composition in the decking board is wood, this material tends to expand and contract. As a result, it is necessary to leave a small gap between the lags in length of at least 10 mm and from the wall or other structures of at least 20 mm.
It is important to ensure that the entire floor covering is well ventilated. To do this, WPC logs are laid on supports made of metal or plastic. Plus, you need to make sure that each end of the wood-polymer board lies on the joist and does not hang down.
Advice! It is recommended to attach deck boards at a temperature of at least 5°C.
The first board should be fastened from a fixed side, for example, from a wall. The first board is secured with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45° to the support joists. The last board will be attached in the same way. Before tightening the screw, be sure to drill a mounting hole of the appropriate diameter. Each subsequent board will be fixed to the support joists using a special galvanized fastener. These clips can also be made of plastic. Their use allows you to create an equal gap along the entire length between the decking boards. For ease of installation, the board has a special groove into which the clip is fixed using a self-tapping screw. You should start attaching the clip from one edge and on each joist. But before that, it is important to make sure that the board is in place.
Advice! If you need to cover a large area, you can use the staggered installation method. In this case, each subsequent board will shift relative to the previous one by a certain distance.
During the installation process, you should not immediately get distracted and adjust each board to the size along the edges of the terrace. Afterwards, all protruding ends can be cut off in one cut with a circular saw. The result will be very beautiful.
Finishing touches
After all the work on fixing the turnkey deck boards has been completed, it is necessary to perform the final touch, which consists of processing all the ends. One way is to use a special decorative strip. To install it in the joist or end part of the board, you need to drill a hole for self-tapping screws to attach the plank. You can also use aluminum corners or special corners made of wood-polymer composite. Each decorative element should be secured in its place using fixed stops.
Common installation mistakes
During installation work, errors are made that affect performance characteristics. For example, in a hurry, people forget to make ventilation gaps between the joists along the entire length and between the walls. This may result in deformation of the laid flooring. Also, screws or self-tapping screws are clamped very tightly. Measures are needed in this matter.
Plus, the water flow is not properly organized. What’s even worse is that the flooring itself and the joists are installed strictly according to level. In this case, rainwater and other moisture will accumulate on the surface. Because of this, the decking board can absorb moisture. Although today there are types of decking boards that do not absorb moisture at all, they are quite expensive.
Violation of these rules can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, taking all precautions into account, the following should not be allowed:
- Flooding of deck and joist structures with water for more than 4 days.
- When cleaning the surface, it is unacceptable to use a metal scraper or spatula. They can damage the top layer of the decking board. It is best to use soft bristled brushes.
Conclusion
So, this article examined the features of how to install a decking board made of wood-polymer composite. Although the technology is not complicated, it requires attention. For this reason, we suggest that you further reinforce the entire theory with the prepared video material in this article.
Installing a decking board is a rather labor-intensive and complex process, but if you wish, you can do it yourself, even without professional skills.
The first thing that needs to be done is to prepare supports for the frame for laying our boards. The service life of your structure depends on how securely you lay the base and install the frame on it.
There are 3 ways to prepare the flooring for the frame. The first is on a sand-gravel bed, on a concrete screed, on metal piles and on concrete piles.
In our case, we will consider the easiest and least expensive method, installation on concrete piles. They can be made either under a wooden beam or under the installation of a metal frame.
The material of choice is larch.
Pouring piles
Let's consider the option of pouring concrete piles under a wooden frame, measuring 10*4.5 m
For this we need:
- Drill with a diameter of 180 mm
- Corrugated fittings 14 mm
- Concrete mortar
- Sewage pipe with a diameter of 160 mm. in the amount of 44 pcs. 0.8 m each.
- Level
- Roulette
- Wheel bolts 14*200 mm with washer
- Beam (pine) 100*100 mm, in the amount of 4.5*11=50 linear meters.
- Drill and drill bit 14*100 mm
- Bulgarian
Procedure
1. Divide the long side into equal segments with a distance of 1 m (if it is not divisible, then reduce the distance to the required one). It turns out 11 columns in length.
2. Divide the short side into segments of 1.5 m (if it is not divided, then we also reduce the segments to obtain even segments). It turns out 4 columns in width. There are a total of 44 concrete columns that we need to pour.
3. We make markings and install pegs with fishing line in those places where the belt of our concrete piles will pass, we make marks where we will drill.
5. We install 4 reinforcements into our holes, having previously tied them with wire into a square, or by welding them. It is important that the reinforcement protrudes 30 cm from the ground level. You make this height at your own discretion, since it is the starting point of your frame. The length of the reinforcement should accordingly be the depth of the pit + 30 cm.
6. Pour the first batch of concrete into the hole with reinforcement, to a mark 40 cm below the ground level.
7. We cut a sewer pipe measuring 80 cm (it is advisable to do this before pouring the first batch of concrete so that it does not have time to harden) and install it in our hole. In this case, it is advisable to bury the pipe in a 5cm layer of concrete. Accordingly, our pipe will stick out of the ground at a distance of 35 cm. All pipes will actually be at different distances from the ground, since the ground is not level everywhere, the most important thing is that the top of the pipe is at the same level in all holes.
8. Pour sand and gravel mixture into the gap between the ground and the pipe and water it with water. It should seal our pipe.
9. Pour the second batch of concrete to the level of the sewer pipe, while sinking the bolt 5 cm into it in the center. Its visible part should be 3-4 cm higher than the thickness of our timber, on which the washer and nut will be placed. Let's say if the beam is 100*100 mm, then our bolt should be 200 mm high.
10. Wait until the solution hardens. Our concrete piles are ready.
11. We impregnate the timber with an antiseptic.
12. We install timber along a length of 4.5 m, having previously drilled holes in them.
13. We place roofing felt for waterproofing between the pile and the timber.
One option is not to install bolts, but to mount the beam on plastic adjustable supports. This is very convenient when the elevation changes are too strong. To do this, it is enough to fasten the timber with self-tapping screws to the adjustable support, adjust the level and secure the supports to the concrete piles.
If you decide to weld a metal frame, then the set of tools and materials is similar, except for positions 8,9,10 and 11. We add a metal square profile from the material. We will use it to weld the metal structure.
All actions are also identical, the difference is that we place our reinforcement 10-15 cm into the profile and weld it. The reinforcement should rest against the bottom of the earth, and the profile should be raised 10 cm above our columns with a pipe. Also, do not forget to pour concrete inside the metal profile. We repeat all other steps except points 12, 13.
Now you can weld metal structures onto these concrete piles. For this you can use either a channel or a profile pipe.
Laying logs and installing boards
The next step is laying the logs and installing larch decking boards on it. It is not advisable to lay metal joists, since wood and metal have different expansion coefficients. Therefore, it is better to take logs from the same larch.
Choosing a installation method
There are two ways to lay decking boards: hidden and open. The hidden method involves installing fasteners in such a way that it is hidden and does not spoil the appearance of the flooring. The open method involves screwing screws from above through the board into the timber. If everything is clear with the last method, then the first option is more complex, but also more reliable and aesthetically pleasing. In our case, we will consider a hidden method.
Board selection
For terraces, 2 types of profiles are used - smooth (deck board) and corduroy. This choice is individual for everyone. Let us dwell on some aspects of using this or that board.
- The corduroy profile has ribbing, which has a pleasant effect on barefoot walking.
- Corduroy has a more reliable grip than a smooth board
- If you use a smooth profile, the board can always be sanded and updated
- Corduroy has higher oil consumption
- Corduroy has a more complex cleaning procedure
Tools and materials
- Miter saw for cutting joists and boards.
- Screwdriver
- Level
- Self-tapping screws 5*80 for attaching joists to timber
- Hammer
- Drill
- Twin mini or twin mount in the amount of 675 pcs. (consumption 15 pcs per sq.m.) with screws 3*35 mm (3 pcs per 1 fastening)
- The logs are 50*50*5 m, other sizes are possible, taking into account rigidity standards. If we need to cover a length of 10 m and a width of 4.5 at a step of 0.5 m, then it turns out we need 10*10=100 linear meters. lag
- Terrace board 28*140*3 m, grade AB, 50 sq.m. (usually they take it with a reserve)
- Spacers
- Antiseptic and brush
- Natural oils
Work order
1. We impregnate the logs with an antiseptic. There is also the old fashioned method of soaking it with boiling oil that has been used forever (from a car engine).
2. We place our logs on the timber.
3. We fix the logs with 5*80 mm self-tapping screws to the beam at a distance of 50 cm (recommended width) from each other.
4. Impregnate the back side of the decking board with an antiseptic
5. We install the first board on the screws, after making holes in them with a drill. This is necessary so that the screws do not break the board when screwing in. It is also important that the boards fall in the center of the joists.
6. Cut the next board in half (1.5 m each) and install it as a continuation of the first, also securing it with self-tapping screws. We made a connection of 2 boards 3 and 1.5 m. Thus, we closed our width of 4.5 m.
7. We mount twin fasteners to these boards, 1 piece for each intersection with the joist
8. Using a hammer and a stand, we nail the next 2 boards of 1.5 and 3 m onto the fastening tenons, having previously installed the spacers. We ended up with a bunch of 4 boards installed in a checkerboard pattern. This order is more beautiful than making a joint along one line.
9. The remaining steps are repeated.
10. After installation in 2 layers (if the terrace is outdoors, then 3 layers are better). It is advisable to choose darker tonners, since over time larch fades and becomes inconspicuous.
Now our structure of concrete piles, joists and decking boards is ready.
The only thing you can do is treat the decking with oil once every 2-3 years, depending on wear.
If you want to entrust the installation of decking boards to professionals, you can contact our company to order a free specialist visit. He will advise you and also calculate the cost of work and materials.
Video on the topic
To build your own terrace you need to have some knowledge. Most often, such structures are made from composite decking boards or ordinary larch. These are excellent materials that have many advantages. But for those who want to cover a terrace with decking, it is important to know how to do it. From this article you will learn how to lay larch or WPC decking boards.
You will be provided with detailed instructions, a list of what you need and a detailed video. Thanks to this, you can do everything yourself.
What you need to lay larch decking boards
According to the instructions, before installation, the boards themselves should be installed in the place where the work will be carried out. This is necessary so that the material undergoes adaptation and acquires that temperature and humidity. The rules state that work should not be done in winter. And to extend the life of the material, you need to ventilate the boards and make a slope so that moisture drains from them.
Here's what you'll need to lay your decking:
- logs that will serve as supports and frame;
- intermediate and initial bracket;
- self-tapping screws to fix products;
- end strips;
- plugs if the planks are hollow;
- corners;
- directly the decking itself for installation.
Advice! If you decide to install WPC decking boards, then this video will help you decide on the choice of material.
As for tools for work, stock up on:
- Saw.
- With a mallet.
- Drill.
- Construction level.
- Pencil and tape measure.
- Screwdriver and drills.
When everything you need is prepared, you can begin the installation process.
Step No. 1 - prepare the base
If you want to use decking and lay boards on a base that is not prepared, then such an idea will not be successful. The base must be strong, level and smooth. As such a foundation, you can make a concrete screed, build a columnar foundation, or install metal logs. If the place where the future terrace will be is lined with grass, then you need to get rid of it.
Preparation of the base also includes creating drainage to remove moisture. To do this, the base must have a slope of 2 °. Then the water will drain from the terrace. And to speed up the movement of water, install the decking board parallel to the descent.
Step No. 2 - install logs
Once your base is leveled and prepared, you can begin installing the decking joists. Aluminum logs are more durable and stronger than wooden ones. But a wooden product is cheaper. Therefore, the choice is yours.
The support logs are installed on a concrete base and fixed to it with anchor bolts. The maximum lag pitch is 40 cm. But those places that will be subject to special loads need to be strengthened, so reduce the distance between the lags by half (20 or 25 cm).
Note! Maintain clearance near walls, thresholds, curbs or other obstacles. It is equal to 20 mm. This is enough so that the boards can expand under the influence of temperatures in the summer.
All work should be checked with a level and tape measure. Each joist must be in its place, stand level and secure. Even if the concrete screed is perfectly level, do not neglect measurements. The final result depends on how correctly you install the deck board joists. The coating should not move or creak underfoot.
Step No. 3 - install the decking board
When the logs are securely fastened, you can begin installing the decking board. Further work is quite simple. Everything is done according to the principle of fastening the lining. Here are the detailed instructions:
Work until the deck is finished.
Note! This is an open method of fastening deck boards. It is the simplest, but to implement it you need to damage the coating of the products. There is another installation method, hidden. Thanks to it, the fasteners will not be visible, and the board will remain intact. The method is suitable for both larch boards and WPC.
Step No. 4 - finishing the job
If you have completely covered your terrace with larch boards, you can bring everything to fruition and correct any shortcomings. After all, the terrace has not yet acquired its completed appearance and attractiveness. First, use end caps to hide any gaps at the ends.
Advice! Most often, hollow boards are used for terraces, rather than solid ones. They are much cheaper, and are ideal for using terraces. This way you can save money without harming yourself.
An alternative option for end caps is an end strip. Thanks to it, you can hide all the imperfections on the edges, as well as sheathe the lower part of your terrace. This will give her a better look. Another method to hide the ends is a polymer corner. It is attached to the board and is also the lining of the lower part. After completing all the work, all that remains is to clean the products by removing dust, shavings and other waste.
You can find instructions for laying larch decking boards in this video.
Avoid installation mistakes
Laying decking boards made of larch or other material requires strict adherence to instructions and rules. If you do something wrong, the end result may not please you. What to do to avoid mistakes? Here is a list of simple rules that you better remember:
- It is imperative to create gaps between each board. Thanks to this little trick, you can extend the service life of larch decking boards for many years. In addition, the gaps will act as ventilation, allowing the wood to breathe and dry. And in the summer heat, when the material expands, the gap will protect it from cracks and damage.
- Do not tighten the screws or other fasteners too tightly. There is no need to be overzealous, as the boards can become deformed under such strong pressure.
- If you have made a foundation or poured a concrete screed, but forgot about the slight slope, then it is important to ensure water drainage. To do this, make grooves in several places; along them, water will roll into the drainage system or onto the grass.
- Be sure to provide drainage holes.
If you do everything right and take proper care of your decking board, it will last you 25 years or more. The coating will need to be washed and cared for. Larch products need protection from time to time. They need to be treated with an antiseptic, fire retardant and other protective compound. Then neither moisture, nor fire, nor other factors will harm the coating.
Let's sum it up
You may have noticed that installing larch decking boards is not entirely difficult. It is only important to pay attention to detail and follow clear instructions. Thanks to this, you can create a beautiful, reliable, stylish, durable, environmentally friendly and durable covering on the terrace. And the work itself will cost you little.
For those who don’t know or have forgotten, let me remind you that decking is a building material for constructing floors in rooms and structures that have contact with precipitation, open air, water and other active influences. The name itself implies the purpose of this board - the installation of floors on open and semi-open verandas, terraces, open podiums, swimming pool areas, even piers and moorings.
Why deck boards are not afraid of moisture
The second, technological name for a decking board is a board made of wood-polymer composite. Composite means a man-made material made up of several components. The composition of WPC boards includes: wood flour (40-45%), polyethylene or PVC (40-45%), dyes and additives. It is the polymer components of the WPC board that make it impervious to moisture, rot, fungi and ultraviolet radiation.
Installation of decking boards
Let's look at the design of the decking board, in the photo or in more detail. The edges of the decking board have technological grooves that serve to attach it to the base. The WPC boards are fastened with special brackets, which are simultaneously attached to the base and cling to the groove of the board.
Installation of terrace boards is carried out on logs. The joists in this floor structure should also be made of composite polymer or aluminum. You can install a terrace board in two ways and using two different technologies.
- The first installation method involves laying the boards continuously without seams. A hidden technique of fastening with brackets to the grooves at the end of the board is used;
- The second installation method involves leaving uniform gaps between the boards to drain water or sediment. With this installation, the board is fastened openly with screws through the front part of the board/
According to the installation technique, use:
- Technology of laying floors on adjustable joists. Installation of logs is carried out on adjustable supports, often made of plastic. The boards themselves are fastened across the joists using fastening brackets or self-tapping screws.
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- Technology of laying floors on joists of a solid foundation. In rooms not accessible to precipitation, as well as in semi-enclosed rooms (veranda, terrace), it is possible to install the decking on a solid base (for example, a concrete slab) without adjustable supports. This installation complicates drainage and therefore limits the impact of water.
Both technologies require floor ventilation and drainage for outdoor floors. For ventilation, ventilation holes at the ends of the structure, as well as gaps between the adjacent walls (10-12 mm) and the first floor boards, are sufficient. For open areas, it is necessary to arrange water drainage by making a base slope from under the structure.
Installation stages
The basis for installing decking boards can be: a concrete base, a metal frame, open soil with a compacted backfill of sand and fine gravel.
- Rows of adjustable supports are installed on the base at equal distances (30-40 cm). The pitch between supports is 1000 mm;
- Logs are attached to the supports. The method of fastening depends on the design of the support;
- Using the rotating mechanisms of the supports, the log levels are set at a single horizontal level in all directions of the surface;
- Starting from the wall of the room, the first row of boards is laid with a gap of 10-12 mm. The board is fastened to the joists with brackets;
- The end joints of the boards should fall in the middle of the joist. It is better to install additional support under the end joint;
- After laying the surface, the edges of the structure are covered with corners made of WPC composite, leaving holes for ventilation.
