Many beginners in floriculture would like to know how to grow petunia from seeds. I was once such a beginner, and now, from my experience, I will share with you how to properly sow, plant and feed petunia so that the result is 5 points. In the article you will find my photographs of seedlings at different stages of their development and a short video of 3-week-old seedlings in tablets.
A few words about petunias
Petunia –
a popular flowering annual or perennial plant from the Solanaceae family, common in the wild of many countries in South America and a relative of tobacco. In our country, this is a flower beloved by many gardeners and landscape designers, which is an excellent decoration for city flower beds and flower beds, garden and summer cottage plots, balconies and terraces. In open ground, the crop is grown as an annual, and as a houseplant, petunia develops as a perennial plant. Feature of culture
– this is a bright and varied color of flowers, a pleasant aroma, abundant and long flowering, unpretentiousness in cultivation, a variety of species and varieties, a harmonious combination with other garden representatives.
Petunia consists of a straight or creeping densely branched stem with a pubescent surface, solid dark green oval leaves from five to twelve centimeters long (also with slight pubescence), single flowers on short funnel-shaped peduncles (depending on the variety, with different appearances). , color and number of petals) and fruits - boxes with small seeds. The height of the flower bush is from fifteen to eighty centimeters. The flower is propagated by seeds and cuttings. The flowering period lasts from the beginning of June until the first autumn frosts.
Petunia can withstand frosts down to -4 degrees
One of the main reasons for the plant’s demand among gardeners is its ease of cultivation and minimum time for care.
Preparing for sowing
Preparatory work begins in winter - this includes the acquisition of seeds, planting containers and soil.
1. Selection and preparation of seeds
Experienced flower growers recommend purchasing seed material only in specialized stores. It is worth paying attention to the packaging date and the number of seeds in one package. Only fresh seeds packaged in five to ten pieces (no more) are considered high quality. The price for such a package is approximately 100 rubles.
There is no need to do anything with good petunia seeds before planting (no stratification or soaking the seeds in potassium permanganate). Before planting, I recommend spraying the seeds with Chlorella solution (or any seed germination stimulator, for example Zircon or Epin), perhaps that’s all.
2. Selection of landing containers
Ampelous petunia in tablets, 3 weeks Planting boxes can be made of wood, plastic, plastic. Small common containers ten to fifteen centimeters high or individual pots and cups, peat tablets are suitable. I recommend sowing in hot peat tablets. I fill the tablets with hot water, 70-80 degrees, this disinfects perfectly and the seeds germinate faster in warm tablets.
3. Soil preparation
For seedlings, you will need light and loose soil with all the necessary nutritional components. A suitable substrate is sold at specialized retail outlets, but you can prepare it yourself.
In fact, it is better to start preparing the soil already during picking, and for seed germination you need fine peat, even without the nutritional component in the form of vermicompost and other fertilizers. Seeds can germinate on a damp napkin!
Therefore, peat tablets are best suited.
Sowing seeds
1. Deadlines
The timing of sowing depends on the variety of petunias and the climate of the growing location. In cold regions (for example, Siberia) with a long spring, sowing is carried out in mid-February or in the first half of March, in warm regions - in January. Early flowering varieties can be sown last.
In order to have a flowering three-dimensional plant in a flower pot at your summer cottage in Siberia in May, you need to sow the seeds from 1.02 to 20.02.
2. Features of sowing
Diary of sowing, picking and feeding petunias Sowing is carried out on the surface of a moist substrate. Small seeds are carefully placed on the surface of the substrate with a damp toothpick; if the seeds are granular, lightly knead the shell with the same toothpick. Press the seeds very slightly to the ground.
Containers with crops are covered with transparent film or glass to create greenhouse conditions. The first shoots will appear in about seven to fifteen days.
Before seedlings appear, daily aeration of the soil and moistening with a fine spray will be required. In the future, you need to maintain the desired temperature, humidity and lighting.
Rules for caring for seedlings
Planting seedlings in open ground or flower pots
Pinching the crown of petunia, seedlings 1.5 months old The optimal time for transplantation is the second half of May.
The planting site is sunny, unshaded, without stagnant water, with neutral soil, protected from sharp gusts of wind.
The depth of the planting holes is about ten centimeters. The distance between plants is from eighteen to thirty centimeters (depending on the type and variety). Planting of seedlings is carried out together with a ball of earth. The soil around the plants is watered and covered with a mulching layer of humus.
Types and varieties of petunias
In floriculture, there are more than two dozen species and about seventy varieties of petunias. All varieties can be divided into groups.
Development of side shoots of petunia after pinching the crown According to the shape of the bush:
- bush - “Triumph”, “Ultra”, “Limbo”;
- hanging - “Snow Queen”, “Explorer”, “Black Velvet”;
- cascading - “Mona Lisa”, “Tornado”, “Ramblin”.
There are more than 25 species of petunias in the wild. Hybrids are the most popular among gardeners. They grow a bright flower in city parks, in the country, on a loggia or balcony. The flower is not picky and grows well both in a flower bed and as a potted plant.
Flower lovers value petunias for their abundant flowering, which continues from the beginning of summer and ends only after the first autumn frosts. These unpretentious plants are grown in any climate zone. They tolerate drought well, love light and can grow in poor soils.
Petunia is a genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants from the nightshade family. The height of representatives of this genus can vary from 10 cm to 1 meter. The ornamental crop comes from South America, where it grows in the tropical regions of Brazil, Paraguay, Bolivia and Uruguay.
Data on the number of petunia species existing in nature is ambiguous; according to some sources there are about 15, according to others – up to 40. The first cultivated plants of the petunia genus appeared in the 18th century. The main characteristics of these plants:
- stem erect or creeping with shoots of 2.3 orders;
- there is pubescence on the shoots;
- the color of the shoots is green, the shape is round;
- the leaves have different sizes and shapes, are alternate, and have pubescence;
- the flowers have a double perianth, which consists of a corolla and a calyx;
- flowers of two types: double and simple;
- the fruit has the shape of a bivalve capsule, which splits open when the seeds ripen;
- seed size is small.
There is no consensus among flower growers regarding the classification of petunias. Typically, this type of ornamental plants is divided according to the following characteristics:
- bush shape;
- flower size and type of flowering.
According to the shape of the bush
Depending on the shape of the bush, there are varieties of petunias: bush, cascading, ampelous. Let's look at what bush types of petunias are. They are low-growing, compact, with erect shoots up to 30 cm long, and tall species with spreading shoots from 50 to 75 cm long. Bush-type varieties and hybrids do not need to be formed. To simulate the growth of side shoots, you just need to pinch the growing point.
The ampelous group of petunias unites plants with long shoots from 50 to 150 cm in length. They are characterized by:
- rapid growth of shoots;
- long and abundant flowering;
- resistance to adverse weather conditions.
Ampel varieties of petunias look good in hanging flowerpots. Landscape designers use this type of flower with thin, long vines for vertical gardening. They practice planting ampelous petunias in the ground to obtain bright flower carpets.
Cascading petunias have thicker shoots, the length of which is shorter than that of ampelous varieties. They grow upward and descend only when they reach a certain length. Varieties and hybrids of cascading petunias are used to decorate loggias and balconies. Their seedlings are planted in boxes, pots, and flower pots.
By flower size and type of flowering
All petunias are divided into two groups according to flower size:
- P. small-flowered;
- P. grandiflora;
- P. blooms profusely;
- P. multiflorum.
The Milliflora group of small-flowered petunias includes plants with flower diameters from 2.5 to 3 cm. This species is characterized by abundant flowering; rain does not affect their decorative effect. The bushes are formed from numerous branched shoots up to 0.9 m long and erect stems not exceeding 25 cm in height.
Florists use the following varieties when creating flower arrangements:
Large-flowered
Large-flowered forms do not tolerate difficult weather conditions. Flowers of these forms are very decorative, but the number of flowers on the bushes is less than that of small-flowered species. The large-flowered group of petunias, Grandiflora, is popular among gardeners.
Reference! Large-flowered varieties do not tolerate bad weather, so they are used to decorate balconies, terraces, and verandas.
It combines low-growing varieties with a stem height of 25 to 35 cm and tall varieties with a shoot length of 50 to 70 cm. The flowers are large in different shapes: simple funnel-shaped, double. The diameter of the flowers can range from 8 to 13 cm. Flower petals have solid, wavy or corrugated edges.
Popular varieties of large-flowered petunias:
Blooming profusely
Floribunda is a group of hybrids and varieties that unites profusely flowering petunias. The height of erect, branched shoots is from 25 to 45 cm. The flowers are simple funnel-shaped or double with a diameter of 6 to 10 cm. This type of petunias is used for decorative design of flower beds and borders. Popular varieties of petunia Floribunda:
Multifloral
The group of multi-flowered petunias Multiflora consists of low-growing, compact plants, abundantly strewn with flowers. The height of the bushes does not exceed 25 cm. The shape of the flowers varies - from simple to double, the diameter of which does not exceed 5 cm. The flowering of multi-flowered petunias is early and long-lasting. Plants of this group are used to decorate flower beds, balconies, and grown indoors on window sills.
Varieties common among gardeners:
When to plant petunia seeds for seedlings
Depends on when they plan to bloom. If you need to get a flowering plant in late spring, then you need to sow the seeds for seedlings in January. For summer flowering, sowing begins in mid-February and continues until the third decade of March.
To get full-fledged seedlings, you need at least 3 months. they begin to sow earlier than other varieties, since it takes longer to form long shoots.
Beginning gardeners may be puzzled by the very small size of the seeds. You need certain skills to work with them. Dried seeds are available for sale. They are easier to sow and the shell protects the seeds from various types of infections, in addition, it contains nutrients. Petunia seeds remain viable for 4 years.
Experienced gardeners have long determined the soil composition most suitable for growing petunia seedlings. Suitable soils for it:
- sandy loam;
- loamy;
- clayey-sandy.
Many gardeners practice mixing several types of purchased soil. Because they believe that one type of soil may not be suitable for petunias, but a mixture of soils from 2-3 manufacturers will be optimal in structure and fertility.
The pH level of the soil is important; the decorativeness of the flower depends on it. Neutral (pH from 5.5 to 7.0) or slightly acidic (pH from 5.5 to 6.5) soil is suitable for petunias. Determining the pH level is not difficult; litmus paper is sold for this purpose.
If the soil in the garden is acidic, it is limed or humic fertilizers, organic matter or nitrates are added. You can reduce acidity by adding sandy loam or turf soil. Peat is added to highly alkaline soil, and compost or sphagnum is added to moderately alkaline soil. The structure of heavy, clayey soil is corrected by adding peat and sand.
As for the soil for seedlings, many gardeners prefer to germinate seeds in peat tablets. Those who use land for sowing carry out a number of measures to disinfect it:
- to protect against diseases, they are spilled with a pink solution of potassium permanganate; watering must be done at least a week before planting;
- the second disinfection option is 1 hour in the oven preheated to 150 °C.
For those who want to compose the soil themselves, the advice of flower growers can help, who recommend the following options for soil mixtures for seedlings:
- clay 30% and 70% peat;
- peat 1 part, sand 1 part, loam 2 parts;
- peat 1 part, loam 1 part.
For petunias, you can use both high-moor and low-lying peat. Instead of loam, you can add perlite or spruce bark. For 1 liter of soil it is worth adding 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour to normalize the acidity.
Not everyone knows how to sow small petunia seeds correctly. The main thing to remember is that the seeds are sown on the surface and not covered with earth or humus. Small seeds are not visible on the surface of the earth and are difficult to sow.
The process will be much easier if you pour a layer of snow on top of the ground. On a white background, the seeds are easy to distribute at the required distance from each other. You can grab them with a toothpick. After all the seeds have been spread out, the planting containers need to be covered with cling film and placed in a warm place.
Lighting should be diffused, as direct sunlight can destroy tender seedlings. Before the shoots appear, you can forget about petunia, since the moisture supply from the melted snow is quite enough to germinate the seeds.
Seedling care
It's hard to imagine how to care for her. Any misstep can destroy delicate plants. Failures occur among beginning gardeners; experienced florists rarely fail, since they know exactly what petunias need at each stage of development.
But it is necessary and often enough. Drying out the top layer of soil leads to its death. To carefully water the roots, gardeners use various devices:
- syringes;
- small enemas;
- screw a part of a ballpoint pen into the tire of a plastic bottle.
At first, water frequently and little by little so that the surface of the soil is constantly moist. As the seedlings grow, the frequency of watering decreases, but the volume increases.
Light is needed for the normal development of seedlings. For the first two weeks, it can be illuminated for almost 24 hours. When sowing seeds in March, such long illumination is not needed. It is enough to provide the seedlings with 12 hours of daylight.
To illuminate petunia seedlings, use the following lamps:
- gas discharge;
- luminescent;
- LED
You can turn on the lamp in the morning at 7 o'clock, and turn it off in the evening at 9 o'clock. This lighting will be enough to grow strong seedlings.
Temperature
From the moment the seeds are sown until the first shoots of petunias appear, the room temperature is maintained at around 25 °C. As the seedlings grow, after picking them into separate cups, you need to gradually reduce the air temperature in the room to 18 °C, or even better, to 16 °C.
This is not a necessary procedure if the plants are planted in separate cups. When sowing in a common container, picking is necessary, as it contributes to the formation of first the root system, and then the above-ground part of the flower.
Transplantation (picking) of petunia seedlings can be carried out several times. The first time in the phase of 3-4 true leaves. In time, this is approximately 2 weeks after germination. With the help of picking, the density of planting of seedlings is regulated. You can dive into a larger box or into individual cups with a diameter of 6 to 8 cm.
To avoid damaging the delicate roots of small seedlings, the soil should be well watered before picking. When transplanting seedlings, some gardeners disinfect the roots by dipping them for a few seconds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After transplanting, the seedlings need to be watered; after watering, the soil will tightly adhere to the roots.
After which the plant appears new growth points, the active formation of new shoots begins. The flowering period is delayed, but the largest flowers are formed on the side stems.
Pinching is carried out in several stages. The crown of the seedling is pinched for the first time after the 5th leaf appears. This procedure is called pinching and is carried out using nail scissors.
After a month, you can pinch off the already formed side shoots. It is allowed to form bushes throughout the season if this is necessary to maintain the decorative appearance of the plant. Elite varieties rarely need to be shaped. Simple varieties of petunias require pinching and pinching of side shoots.
In order for the seedlings to develop well, you can add to the soil:
- Epin;
- Uniflor;
- Powder;
- Perlite;
- Hydrogel.
Epin stimulates growth. Perlite loosens the soil. Uniflor supplies plants with microelements. Powder is difficult to purchase; it is silt, which increases the germination of seeds. The hydrogel helps control soil moisture levels and improves seed germination.
The supply of nutrients in the soil will be enough for the first time. Growing seedlings need to be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizer; the time for the first feeding occurs 2-3 weeks after emergence. The next feeding should be done in 2 weeks. Potassium and phosphorus should predominate in the fertilizer.
Different growing methods
To grow full-fledged petunia seedlings, it will take 90 days. Each gardener has his own proven method of growing:
- sowing in a box (pot) filled with soil;
- using peat tablets;
- on toilet paper.
You can buy peat tablets at any supermarket. The sowing procedure is simple:
- The tablets are first soaked in water;
- after they increase in size, they are placed in a box (container) with sides of at least 4 cm;
- the seeds are placed in the recesses on the tablet;
- The box is covered with film.
After a week, shoots appear. Before they appear, the tablets must be moistened.
To decorate a balcony or loggia, petunias are sown directly into a pot or flowerpot. The success of lush flowering will depend on the correct soil mixture. For decoration, petunias of different types (bush, ampelous) are planted in one container and complemented with other flowers: alyssum, lobelia. To keep the soil in the pots moist, hydrogel or vermiculite is added to the soil.
Transplanting petunia seedlings to a permanent place is not difficult. The soil needs to be prepared and treated with a fungicide in advance, preferably in the fall. A good time for transplantation would be a cloudy day or a cool evening.
Plants must be handled carefully without damaging the root system. Straighten the roots, avoiding bends. Water the soil well after transplanting. Water should not get on the leaves. To maintain constant soil moisture, use mulch:
- decorative bark;
- sawdust;
- peat;
- humus.
Caring for petunias in summer
Petunia is grown in pots or in soil. Summer care depends on the growing method. Petunia growing in the ground does not require frequent watering; it is enough to water the flowers well once a week. Petunias growing in pots require frequent watering. On hot days, you can water potted flowers twice a day, morning and evening.
Feeding begins a week after transplanting the flower to a permanent place. Use standard complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Flowers in the ground are fed once every two weeks, potted petunias are fertilized once every 7 days.
Petunias respond well to fertilizers with a high potassium content. Feeding can be carried out throughout the summer season until the end of flowering. It is recommended to alternate mineral fertilizers with organic ones. Faded flowers should be removed, especially for hanging varieties and petunias grown in pots and containers.
Experienced flower growers achieve lush flowering from their pets. Novice florists can do this too. The techniques are simple:
- pinching the central stem of seedlings;
- pinching the tops of side shoots;
- regular watering;
- removing faded flowers;
- feeding.
Fertilizing is a key condition for lush flowering; without fertilizers, the shoots will be thin and flowering will not be abundant.
Petunia may suffer from viral diseases. Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses are dangerous for her. Symptoms of cucumber mosaic:
- stunted appearance;
- small flowers;
- yellow spots on leaves;
- the leaves take on an irregular shape.
When infected with the tobacco mosaic virus, the plant becomes smaller, the edges of the leaf blades turn up and become covered with necrotic spots. Dots or streaks of white or gray are visible on the flower petals. Plants infected with viruses are destroyed.
Among insects, petunia is attacked by aphids. Symptoms:
- young shoots turn yellow and become deformed;
- It is easy to see adult aphids on the leaves;
- Ants scurry around the infected bush.
There is no point in delaying treatment of an infected flower. Any gardener should have insecticides: Aktara, Fufanon, Karate. Several treatments and the bush will look healthy.
Problems of growing petunia
Beginners when growing petunias encounter many problems, both serious and not so serious. All errors are associated with incorrect selection of the soil mixture and violations of the conditions for keeping the seedlings.
Yellow leaves on petunia seedlings may indicate iron deficiency. You can rid a flower of chlorosis using iron chelate. Flower growers prefer to use Ferovit, a liquid form of iron chelate. To restore the plants to a healthy appearance, 4 treatments are enough.
Fertilize once every 5 days. Fertilizers are applied both at the root and by spraying on the leaves. A greater effect is achieved by alternating root and foliar feeding. Petunia responds well to the addition of potassium monophosphate.
Curled petunia leaves are a sign of poor care for a young plant. The reasons may be different:
- waterlogging of the soil;
- overdrying of the soil;
- dry air;
- increased soil acidity;
- excess nitrogen;
- lack of phosphorus;
- lack of sunlight;
- viral disease or pest infestation.
To eliminate the cause of poor growth, you can change the place of residence of the seedlings, move them to a south or south-west window. As an option, install a lamp to illuminate the seedlings.
Another reason for plant growth to stop is insufficient pot volume. The roots have filled the entire volume and have nowhere else to develop. This reason can be eliminated by transferring the plant to a new container of larger volume. After transplantation, the flower can be treated with a growth stimulator.
How to grow petunia seedlings at home: video
How to form petunias? Do I need to pinch? Which petunia to choose when buying? video
Petunia will not require much effort from you during cultivation. Any novice gardener can carry out all the steps to take care of it. This beautiful flower needs: systematic watering, timely application of fertilizers and good lighting throughout the day.
Today we will tell you how to grow petunia seedlings from seeds at home. These flowers are very popular and bloom beautifully from June until the coldest weather. You can, of course, buy a couple of bushes for a flowerpot, but you can’t buy enough for a large flowerbed. And it’s better to grow the seedlings yourself. Petunia is an unpretentious plant and there should be no special problems with its cultivation. There are simply some points that need to be taken into account when sowing and caring in order to get beautiful lush bushes.
As a rule, it is recommended to sow petunia very early. In the month of February, and best of all, right in January. This method is good for experienced gardeners or those who grow seedlings for sale, so that in April they will already be blooming on the counter. But with petunia you’ll have a lot of fun while you’re growing it, watering it, picking it. Why complicate your life and add more light to the seedlings? And when sowing in the early stages, it is necessary to keep the young shoots under the lamp for three days, without turning them off! And then it is necessary to add additional lighting.
I didn’t sign up for such feats, so I always sow petunia in mid-March, and in 10 days I’ll start sowing. Let it bloom in June, not April - this is very good, because then it will bloom constantly until the cold weather! As a rule, it takes about three months to grow seedlings; in June they can be planted outside. Otherwise, in the Urals, frosts can strike in the beginning and middle of June, but petunia does not like frosts - they may die. And the overgrown seedlings will stretch out on the window and wither—only tears.
Petunias love slightly acidic soil. Therefore, they will like the purchased soil. It's basically all peat based. If you make soil for seedlings yourself, then take 2 parts of humus and peat, you can add 1 part of garden soil. The main thing is that the soil is light and allows water and air to pass through well. You can acidify it by watering it with lemon water.
Let's start with the container. It is best to take a transparent container with a lid or a cake container. Be sure to make holes in the bottom so that the water does not stagnate. The easiest way to kill petunia seedlings is to flood them with water. She will die from the black leg.
When the holes are made, fill in the soil, press down a little and moisten. Petunia seeds are extremely small. In order to distribute them more evenly, you can sow with a toothpick! We wet the tip of the toothpick in water, take one seed (it sticks) and place it on the ground. You can make furrows in the ground and sow seeds along them. The distance is about 0.5 cm between the seeds.
Well, they've laid it out. Now just press the seeds into the ground and DO NOT cover them with soil. Petunias germinate in the light. And they are so small that they cannot simply sprout from under the ground. Now we close our container with a lid or cover the container with plastic film or glass and place it in a warm place. No need to put it on the battery! - they will cook or dry out before they have time to sprout. Just put it in any warm place.
As a rule, seeds germinate very quickly and amicably. Their seeds usually germinate 100%, but it’s not clear what variety they will get. They pollinate heavily with each other. But more on this later.
In a week, or even earlier, the petunia seeds will certainly germinate. There is no need to remove the lid or film immediately; we gradually accustom it to dry air, for a couple of hours at first. And in a couple of days you can completely open it. When a couple of leaves appear, it is time to pick.
You can also sow petunia seeds in peat tablets, just 1 seed in each tablet. And then it’s easy to replant, right with the tablet.
This word is incomprehensible at first, but in fact this procedure simply involves planting our small petunias in large containers one at a time. It is convenient to put them into cassettes, perhaps with 4 by 4 cm cells, or into yogurt cups. It would be nice to then replant it in a larger container so that the roots grow. Petunia is not afraid of transplantation and tolerates it well.
Of course, when you first see these hair-thin roots, your hands shake and you don’t know which way to approach them. The main thing is not to be afraid. Petunias are “live” and grow back easily. Prepare in advance everything you will be transplanting them into. Place containers, cassettes and soil in them, moisten them, and make a hole. Now moisten the soil with the seedlings. Take the toothpick again, carefully pry one flower at a time and transfer it to the prepared hole. Then you press it down with earth. You can deepen it a little, it will even be good.
Picking implies that the tip of the root must be plucked off from the plant when replanting for better development of the root system. To be honest, I don’t pinch anything, it comes off on its own when transplanting, while you take it out with a toothpick!
After such picking, in two weeks the petunias will have grown well and can be transplanted into larger pots or cups.
Petunias love water and sun. But while they are small, they need to be watered extremely carefully, under the root. Straight from a teaspoon. And you can’t flood them; they will wither and rot in the “swamp.”
Plants need to be pinched. If you leave it to grow as it is, you will have two or three long branches sticking out, and few flowers. And if you trim the ends, the side branches will begin to grow and you will get a lush, beautiful bush.
In flowering plants, it is necessary to pick off wilted flowers, then new ones will appear faster and more.
Many people like to plant petunias in flowerpots, pots and decorate a balcony or area. Don’t try to plant a lot of plants there, they will oppress each other. For a 5-liter pot, it will be enough to plant 1-2 bushes. And if surfinias, cascading, ampelous, then they need 7-10 liters per plant.
Petunias grow a lot of roots, and there simply isn’t enough soil in the pot. It is necessary to constantly feed and water.
By the way, about fertilizers. In the summer I insist on different herbs and water everything I can. Just push a bucket of grass, add water and leave for two weeks. Then I add a liter of water to a watering can or bucket when watering. And the seedlings grow normally even without fertilizers, the first two months are slow, really. But then they begin to increase before our eyes.
Before planting outside, seedlings need to be hardened off. If you have a balcony or veranda, then take it there for a day in April. And when it is more than +5°C at night, you can leave it overnight. When it gets cold, of course, you need to bring it home. Petunias do not like frost and will certainly die at sub-zero temperatures.
- Spider mites - petunias usually get sick from home flowers. The leaves turn yellow and a thin cobweb appears on them. It is necessary to fight and treat with phytoverm or actofite according to the instructions twice with a break of 3-4 days. And don’t forget to spray all the flowers around you against ticks.
- Violation of the temperature regime - heat - a purple tan appears on the leaves, and then they turn yellow. You can spray with any fertilizer containing ammonium, or dilute ammonia (1 ml per 5 liters of water) and spray directly on the leaves. And of course, move the plants to normal cool temperatures.
- Chlorosis or iron deficiency - petunias are very sensitive to iron deficiency. And they do not absorb it well from alkaline soil. And our water also helps to alkalize the soil. Therefore, for prevention, I water the plants with water and lemon juice. For two liters of water 2 grams. citric acid - dissolve and water.
This, of course, is everyone’s personal choice as to what is best to plant. Varietal flowers are not as gorgeous as hybrids, but you can collect your own seeds from them. Even if they cross-pollinate, they can turn out even more interesting than their parents.
But for example, hybrids (F¹ and F²) must be purchased every time, they have almost no seeds, and what does ripen will lose all its beauty in the next generations.
Tricks for growing petunia in a snail:
How to care for petunia seedlings after germination?
Regardless of the method of growing petunias, planting seedlings and caring for seedlings requires special attention. Seedlings emerge from the soil within a week; from this moment on, do not forget to ventilate for 15 minutes once a day. Reduce the temperature to 18-20°C. It is advisable to moisten the soil so that drops do not form on the leaves. When using peat tablets, no fertilizing is needed; in this case, petunia does not grow. The seedlings are transplanted into the pot completely with a lump of peat when the roots begin to poke out of the tablet.
In good conditions, petunia grows quickly, sowing seeds for seedlings, tricks for caring for seedlings include such an important point as picking plants. Even when using peat tablets, delaying this process leads to drying out of the roots and inhibited growth. For seedlings it is produced in cassettes or individual pots. Long roots are lightly pinched and distributed in the soil. To reduce the stretching of flowers, they are transferred to a cool balcony or veranda.
How to feed petunia seedlings for growth?
The first feeding of petunia seedlings for growth is carried out no earlier than a week after the picking process when there are 3-4 leaves. In the first phase of growth, plants require nitrogen, which is present in nitrophoska, azophoska, and urea. The approximate concentration of these fertilizers is up to 10 g per bucket of water. We water the soil with fertilizers without wetting the leaves to avoid burns. Liquid consumption when feeding is about a teaspoon per cup of seedlings. We do the next feeding with an ash solution a week later, soaking 2 tablespoons of ash in 1 liter of water for a day.
While studying all the tricks that help to grow seedlings of ornamental plants, one should not lose sight of the issue of organizing high-quality lighting for young plants. In the task of when to start highlighting petunia seedlings, everything depends on the timing of sowing. From mid-spring, with a 12-hour day on a bright windowsill, there is enough natural light for petunias, but in the winter months the boxes are poorly illuminated by sunlight, which causes unwanted stretching of the sprouts. In February-January, it is advisable to turn on the lamps from 7 am to 10 pm.
There are various diseases of petunia seedlings that can destroy delicate plantings of ornamental crops. First, let's list the reasons that affect the poor germination of plants: improper storage of material, sowing seeds in deep soil, granules that are too hard do not dissolve and do not germinate. After germination, flower growers cannot relax; tender sprouts are susceptible to diseases that quickly develop when flower growing technology is violated.
Diseases of petunia seedlings:
In our country, petunia is grown as an annual ornamental plant. While this representative of the nightshade family is a perennial. But due to the harsh climate in most of our Fatherland, no one thinks about preserving petunias for the winter. This is a troublesome and unpopular matter among Russian flower growers. Meanwhile, breeders have long developed hybrid varieties of petunias that can bloom profusely several times a year.
Description of petunias flowers
The flower came to Europe from South America. In their homeland, Brazil and Paraguay, petunias grow up to a meter in height. Petunias used in cultivated floriculture are plants that have the shape of a small bush.
Its height depends on the type and variety. Low-growing petunias grow up to 20-30 cm, larger ones form a bush up to 60 cm. Petunias also differ in the location of the stem:
- erect;
- creeping.
Breeders are constantly expanding the range of these many-sided decorations for any garden or flower bed. Most often, petunia is divided into two large groups:
- Bush.
- Ampelous petunias.
The latter type of variety is well suited for planting in hanging pots, because due to its flexible short shoots and a large number of small flowers, a bright “ball” is formed, noticeable from afar.
Based on flower size, petunias are divided into large-flowered and multi-flowered. The first group is distinguished by flowers larger than 10 cm. They decorate strong branches with single funnels. These petunias look very elegant.
Plants of the second group have much smaller flowers, a little larger than a five-ruble coin, but there are a lot of them. The bushes look elegant and even fun.
Petunia is extremely popular among flower growers around the world for its variety of colors, long and abundant flowering with proper care. Many people try to grow petunia seedlings with their own hands at home.
How and at what time to start this important task? How to grow petunia seedlings at home? At the first stage, it is necessary to purchase high-quality seed material.
Rules for growing petunias from seeds
Sowing is carried out at the end of February, beginning of March. Although you can start growing seedlings at a later date, in this case you run the risk of not seeing flowering.
Keep in mind that it will be at least 10 weeks before this beauty will delight you with her colorful outfits. Petunia produces very small seeds, smaller than a poppy seed.
However, you can see them on the shelves of flower shops granular form. They are much larger and more expensive than regular ones. The whole trick is in the special nutritional and protective shell surrounding the grain of the plant.
Sometimes granules are sold individually. It is impossible to determine the appearance of the seeds in the package, because they are sold in opaque bags. All you have to do is trust the information on the packaging. Study it carefully. The label must indicate:
- Seed producer.
- Best before date.
- Variety name.
- Flowering time.
- The height of the bush in adulthood.
Keep in mind that seeds in paper packaging remain viable for up to a year. Packaging ensures longer shelf life made of foil or polyethylene- up to two years. How to grow petunia from seeds?
How to choose containers for seedlings
For a homemade “greenhouse” in which seeds will germinate and young seedlings will gather their first leaves, containers for cookies, biscuits, and ice cream will do. Can be purchased plastic containers at a hardware store.
A budget-friendly and convenient option is to use an empty five-liter water bottle. Using a sharp knife, make an incision along the long side on three sides and slightly bend the plastic upward, you get a “greenhouse” with a lid, light and convenient.
Whatever you choose to grow petunias from seeds at home, do not forget to make a hole in the bottom of the container using a heated nail. drainage holes. Then the water will not stagnate in the soil and the roots will not be affected by rot.
Soil preparation
You can buy a ready-made mixture at a flower shop. Such compositions are produced based on peat. There are even special soils for petunias. A high-quality substrate is industrially disinfected from pests.
But you can prepare the necessary soil composition yourself if you have the necessary ingredients, time and desire for this.
Take in equal proportions (2 parts each):
- peat;
- garden land;
- humus;
- add 1 part of sand to this set.
Mix everything, the necessary nutritional base for seed germination is ready. Place a layer of expanded clay or small river pebbles at the bottom of the container. Place soil on top of this drainage pad, with a layer thickness of about 3-5 cm.
Some gardeners advise adding potassium permanganate crystals to the water to create a solution rich in color. In this case, hang the container with soil over a basin where the water will drain. After the soil has cooled after disinfection, moisturize it well using a sprayer and start sowing.
Sowing petunia seeds
Petunia is a plant that loves light and warmth. For successful germination (assuming you are lucky with the source material), these conditions must be created. Therefore the seeds are only lay it out on the surface moistened soil, but do not cover it with soil.
To make the operation easier, moisten a match or toothpick with water and pick up each seed with it. The intervals between them should be the same, at least 10-15 cm.
After you finish, press the seeds to the ground, to improve grip. Close the homemade greenhouse with a lid, glass, plastic film and place it in a warm place, the simplest one is near a room radiator.
Additional lighting is not required at this stage, but warmth for the appearance of sprouts is vital. Petunia seeds must germinate at a temperature of +25 degrees.
Once a day, open the lid of the container for ventilation. Shoots will appear on the third or fourth day. However, if the seeds are expired, they will take longer to germinate, about ten days.
Caring for seedlings: lighting and watering
To obtain healthy and strong seedlings at home, consider some features of the development of petunias. If the sprouts do not have enough light, they will reach for the sun and turn out tall, but weak.
Therefore, after the seeds germinate, move the boxes away from the radiator, but closer to the window. At this stage, the main role is played by the second factor - light. Without relying on window lighting, resort to additional lighting.
For these purposes they use fluorescent lamps or lamps for seedlings. Turn on additional lighting as soon as the seeds hatch. The lamps must burn over the seedlings for at least 12 hours. In the future, this will facilitate the formation of flower buds more quickly. The temperature in the place where you have boxes with sprouts should be +18−20 degrees.
It is extremely important at this stage, when the seedlings are fragile and can easily die, carry out proper watering. Experienced gardeners advise doing this in the evening, when more intensive plant growth occurs.
There must be water soft, chlorine-free and warm. To do this, let the tap water sit for at least a day on a windowsill or other warm place. Before watering, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into it.
From the very first day the sprouts appear, ventilate the greenhouse", sliding the lid. Start with two to three minutes, increasing the aeration time from time to time. This simple method will help maintain moisture in the right amount and protect the seedlings from a disease called “blackleg”.
Diving - how to do it correctly
There comes a time when the seedlings become cramped in the box and each sprout already requires separate space. For this purpose, a transplant is performed. So that you don’t get confused, let’s figure out what kind of leaves are on plants.
When the seed germinates, it produces two cotyledons. They have an elongated shape and are much larger than the leaves that appear later. The cotyledons are a kind of bottle of milk from which the sprout feeds. But then he and his fellow crates grew up, and like kids in kindergarten, they began to push and get in each other’s way.
So it's time to dive. This operation includes transplanting and pinching the root. Each sprout is placed in a separate transparent glass. We deepen the sprout in the soil to the cotyledon leaves.
While the plants are very fragile, the root system has not formed and consists of only one hair-thick root. To avoid damage, take the sprout along with a lump of earth and placed in a new place of residence. The soil is sterilized as before sowing seeds - with boiling water or by calcining it in the oven.
After the first transplant of petunia seedlings, if you did everything correctly, the plant begins to develop more actively, growing its root system. About a month and a half after sowing, will need a second transplant, into larger pots. Here the petunia is left until it is planted in open ground in the garden or in an outdoor flower pot.
Strictly speaking, the picking procedure also includes shortening the root. This is done so that lateral roots begin to develop and the entire system becomes more powerful and branched. Then the plant will receive more nutrients from the soil.
But recently, flower growers have moved away from this practice, considering it too risky. Some experts in growing seedlings at home do not do a second transplant.
They choose a container for diving with a reserve, “for growth.” Explaining this by saying that there is no point in injuring the plants again. You can choose the best method based on your own experience.
Temperature and feeding
Having received a separate living space after the dive, the seedlings begin to grow vigorously. Now, for their own benefit, begin to accustom young petunias to low temperatures, up to +10°. Florists use the term “hardening” in this case.
Cups with seedlings taken out onto a glassed-in balcony or open a window in the room. Start with 15 minutes, gradually increasing the time.
After a couple of weeks of such repetitions and provided that the air temperature outside does not drop below normal, the seedlings can be left in a cool place until they are transplanted to a permanent place.
It is impossible to grow good seedlings without care, and also timely and regular feeding. Start applying fertilizer two weeks after the seedlings are first transplanted. In the future, do this for adult plants, once every two weeks.
Specialized stores offer flower growers complex fertilizers containing a lot of potassium. Liquid concentrated nutritional mixtures, which must be diluted with water at home, are also good.
After the second transplant and in the future, do not forget about loosening the soil. The roots need oxygen. Petunias will respond to such care with prolonged flowering until late autumn.
Pinching seedlings
Looking at a bright, dense “ball” of multi-colored petunias makes your heart happy. How to achieve perfect shape at home? The secret is simple. It's all about pinching the top of the plant.
Start this procedure as soon as four or five leaves appear on the sprout, not counting the two that grow from the hatched seed (cotyledons). It turns out that you will do the first pinching when the petunia has seven leaves.
By limiting upward growth, you will force side shoots to develop. This is how it will be formed rounded bush shape. But keep in mind that pinching delays the onset of flowering. Therefore, leave the plant alone a couple of weeks before.
Growing seedlings in peat tablets
In addition to the method of growing seedlings described above, there is another, more time-saving method. Industry produces peat tablets, which are perfect for obtaining strong seedlings at home.
They are placed in a deep plastic bowl and fill with water. Within 10 minutes, swelling, the tablets increase in volume several times. Drain off excess water and use a match or toothpick to make a small indentation in the top of the peat column.
Place a petunia seed there. Sowing is completed. In the future, care for the seedlings as described above. The convenience is that in the case of peat tablets, diving is not required.
The grown seedlings are planted immediately in open ground, along with the tablet. In the ground it will disintegrate without your intervention. It’s also good that peat gives necessary nutritional supplements developing petunia roots.
From everything described above, we can conclude that even a beginner can grow petunia seedlings at home.