How to build a greenhouse with your own hands. Ideas and ready-made solutions for building the cheapest greenhouses with your own hands How to make a greenhouse

Unfortunately, not the entire territory of Russia is conducive to growing your own vegetables and fruits for many months. In most climatic zones of the country, the dacha season is extremely short, while many people strive to grow as many crops as possible on their plot for subsequent harvesting. In this connection, gardeners and gardeners willingly use greenhouses, with the help of which the growing season is extended, which makes it possible to harvest an earlier and more abundant harvest. In some cases, if you have a well-built greenhouse, self-grown crops can be consumed all year round.

Of course, for these purposes it is necessary to take into account a number of features, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Peculiarities

A greenhouse built with one’s own hands always warms the gardener’s soul. The design can be of very different sizes and shapes, and homemade greenhouses are no worse in use and functionality. The device can be easily viewed in diagrams and drawings; materials for manufacturing may be different. Often, fiberglass reinforcement is used as a frame; there are also no problems with removable covering material - mainly polyethylene film, glass or polycarbonate. Taking into account all these features, it is possible to erect such a structure on a site in one weekend, and homemade buildings are in no way inferior in quality to those purchased in a store.

Advantages and disadvantages

Convenient homemade greenhouses are very popular among summer residents. An undoubted advantage is the fact that a self-made greenhouse at the dacha will be relatively cheap. A budget greenhouse can be made from different materials, the most important thing is to equip it with an opening roof and take care of the quality of lighting for the plants. Speaking about the disadvantages, of course, it should be taken into account that you will have to spend time studying the types and designs, as well as familiarizing yourself with the drawings and construction plans at the dacha.

Kinds

Greenhouses are designed taking into account the botanical characteristics of the plant species for whose needs the greenhouse is being built. These also include the amount of light transmitted and the temperature inside. The greenhouse can be either year-round or used during a certain season. In general, all types of greenhouses are suitable for growing a variety of crops - be it Chinese cabbage or flowers.

At first glance, greenhouses can be divided into the following categories:

• single-pitched;
• gable;
• teardrop-shaped;

• dome;
• polygonal;
• Dutch.

• In most cases, pitched roofs are used in the construction of greenhouses or winter gardens, since this type of building has a passage. As a result, you can easily enter the premises without regard to weather conditions. This type of greenhouse is best installed on the south side of a residential building.
• Greenhouses with gable roofs are very popular in our country and are currently the most common design.
• A teardrop-shaped greenhouse is a very durable structure, perfectly transmits sunlight, does not retain precipitation in the form of snow on the surface, but it is quite difficult to install, so such greenhouses are rarely made independently.
• The dome greenhouse has an impressive appearance and does not require a lot of materials, but its main advantage is that, due to its design features, it can be installed in areas with seismic hazard. The main tasks during construction are good sealing and high-quality insulation.

• Polygonal greenhouses are pleasing to the eye, transmit light well and are not afraid of gusty winds. The difficulty during installation is that it is necessary to carefully organize the space in order to evenly distribute the heat inside.
• The Dutch version of greenhouses is reliable and durable. Due to the sloping walls, sunlight penetrates inside, which can significantly increase the yield. Among other things, this option is also quite budget-friendly.
• Recently, the so-called “booths” - a greenhouse that looks like a tunnel - have become widespread among summer residents. Most often it is erected for growing tomatoes and peppers. This type of greenhouse is functional, convenient, does not require large expenses, and allows you to consistently obtain a good harvest, which allows us to call it the optimal type of self-construction on the site.

Greenhouses are also divided according to the principle of movement:

• folding;
• stationary.

Folding greenhouses began to gain popularity relatively recently. Their advantage is that the lightweight frame can be easily folded and moved to another place in the garden if necessary. At the same time, the greenhouse itself is very ergonomic and has a low cost, which is what deserves the attention of summer residents.

Stationary greenhouses, on the contrary, have long become classics of the genre. To install a structure of this type, you will need an underground foundation and a metal frame. Many people have long preferred this type of greenhouse, since over many years of operation in a wide variety of conditions, these structures have gained fame as strong and durable devices. There are no particular difficulties in installing such a greenhouse; maintaining it is also quite easy.

Greenhouses can also be divided according to the type of initial characteristics - these types of greenhouses are named after the name of their creator:

• greenhouse according to Kurdyumov;
• greenhouse according to "Mitlider".

Kurdyumov's greenhouse is an autonomous unit, otherwise it is called “smart”. This design is distinguished by the ability to automatically maintain the temperature inside itself; a special advantage is the presence of drip irrigation of plants, which does not require human intervention. This type of structure supports the possibility of natural restoration of soil in beds or containers with plants. Mitlider greenhouses are considered a special subspecies of greenhouses. Its distinctive features are know-how in indoor air ventilation systems, the special arrangement of the frame - beams and struts create a durable structure for the covering material. Typically, such greenhouses are located from east to west, which opens up wide opportunities for plants to perceive sunlight.

Natural boards are usually used as the main material for a Mittleider greenhouse., which allows you to “breathe” and prevents the formation of condensation. As a rule, such greenhouses are large in size, which provides an additional opportunity to create a special microclimate for the plants inside. Typically, a greenhouse looks like a low structure with a gable roof with a difference in height. Another possible option is an arched building with a two-level roof.

Another option for greenhouses is a three-row greenhouse. As a rule, such buildings occupy a medium or large area; the beds in them are located in three levels, with two passages located between them.

A farm greenhouse consists of a metal frame over which a film covering is stretched. This type of greenhouse is very popular among the population because it is low cost, moisture-proof and resistant to environmental influences.

Many summer residents fell in love with the spherical greenhouse for its unusual appearance and excellent transmission of sunlight.

Characteristics

When choosing consumables for future construction, be sure to pay attention to what time of year the greenhouse will be primarily used.

Winter greenhouses must be equipped with a heating system, it is better to install them close to the heating system of the house. In another case, as additional equipment, you can install a stove in the greenhouse room, but this will create additional difficulties - the stove requires additional attention, it needs to be heated and, most importantly, to ensure that it does not overheat, which is fraught with temperature fluctuations. A winter greenhouse must be installed on a solid foundation; among other things, this type of construction requires additional strengthening of the frame and roof to avoid possible damage due to heavy snowfalls.

There is also the opportunity to build a so-called “thermos greenhouse” on the site - this structure can boast of being particularly durable, since its foundation goes two meters into the ground. However, installing such a structure has a number of additional difficulties - it is necessary to dig a pit, the foundation must be separately reinforced to avoid deformation, thermal blocks are usually used as a material for walls, which will subsequently need to be insulated. All this is quite expensive, so such greenhouses are rarely found on personal plots.

Summer greenhouses in the vast majority of cases consist of a frame on which a polyethylene film is stretched. This option for external cladding is the most budget-friendly, and with careful use, the film is quite capable of lasting two seasons.

Creating the simplest greenhouse on your summer cottage with your own hands requires certain preparatory work.

The first thing to take care of is preparing the site for construction. Try to choose an area that is as level as possible; it is also highly desirable that there are no obstacles to the sun’s rays. Next, the site is properly compacted. If a tree is chosen as the base, then the prepared boards are treated with an antiseptic solution and knocked down around the perimeter. Reinforcement is installed in the corners of the boxes as additional reinforcement. If for some reason it is not possible to allocate a separate place for the construction of a greenhouse, an alternative option would be to adjoin one wall of the greenhouse to any building - it could be a residential building or some kind of utility room.

When choosing materials for the frame, it is necessary to take into account all their characteristics. We must not forget that the frame itself and the doors must have special strength so that the structure cannot be damaged by winds, temperature fluctuations and snow masses during the winter period. None of the frame elements should be massive and prevent the penetration of light. If a collapsible structure is intended, it should consist of lightweight materials and be able to be dismantled without additional effort.

Frames for greenhouses can be made of the following materials.

• Tree– the most environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material that does not require the use of any professional equipment and does not require specialized skills during the work. Since wood tends to rot, special attention should be paid to its pre-treatment.
• Aluminum profiles involve the creation of a rigid but light frame, while it is durable. This material has a higher cost; its use requires the use of equipment to fasten the parts together.
• Plastic(as well as metal-plastic) parts have a low specific gravity, are quite durable, and are not subject to external influences such as rotting or corrosive changes. Due to its flexibility, it is possible to change the shape of the parts, which provides ample opportunities for creating greenhouses with arches or two slopes. But it is necessary to take into account that plastic elements require mandatory connection to the foundation or soil.

• Steel frames are also quite widespread, but they require a strip foundation. If the elements are galvanized, they will last longer as they are not subject to rust and corrosion.
• Drywall It is a successful combination of light weight material and ease of work. Practice shows that a frame made of this type of material is inexpensive, easy to use, lasts a long time and is easy to disassemble. It is used to perfectly create gable and arched greenhouses, as well as Mittlaider greenhouses.

Sometimes window frames are used as frames - which are characterized by excellent thermal insulation and relative ease of installation. However, it is worth considering their relative fragility - even with careful care, their service life is unlikely to exceed five years.

After choosing a suitable location, the next step in the greenhouse construction process is choosing a suitable foundation. Its type directly depends on the weight of the planned structure, since in most cases the greenhouse frame weighs little, and the covering material additionally adds windage to the building, which often causes destruction due to strong gusts of wind.

• A brick foundation is easy to install, reliable and quite suitable for most greenhouses. But it is necessary to take into account that laying a brick foundation requires specific skills and is quite expensive.
• Stone foundations are rightfully the most durable and strong. You can install heavy metal frames on it. This option cannot be called budgetary; as a rule, foundations for permanent greenhouses are created from stone.

• Concrete is inexpensive and hardens quite quickly, but requires the creation of formwork and frame fastenings.
• Wood is often used as a foundation, but it is worth considering that a wooden foundation is not suitable for capital construction, since it is unlikely to last longer than five years even with the most careful care.
• In some cases, when constructing a greenhouse, it is quite possible to do without a foundation. We are talking about small portable greenhouses, the windage of which is reduced by attaching them directly to the ground with small pegs.

When choosing a coating material, it is necessary to take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of different types of materials.

Basically, the following options are used:

• polyethylene film;
• glass;
• polycarbonate

The most affordable type of covering material is stretch film, however, it cannot boast of durability and even the highest quality coatings require replacement every three years. A greenhouse with arches or bows is usually covered with two layers of film, which creates excellent conditions for the plants inside the building. The material perfectly transmits sunlight, but for the same reason it is subject to rapid wear and, as a result, a decrease in light transmittance. In addition, very often condensation forms on the inner surface, which can also be attributed to the disadvantages of this type of coating. There are also options for polyethylene film, additionally equipped with reinforcement. This option is stronger, more resistant to gusts of wind and will last longer.

Glass can safely be classified as a traditionally used material when making greenhouses with your own hands. Glass coatings are durable and have excellent thermal insulation, but it should be remembered that glass heats up very quickly and at the same time weighs quite a lot. Replacing broken glass is a particular challenge.

Polycarbonate is a type of hard, transparent plastic, the structure of which is a material with large cells. It has sufficient impact resistance and light transmittance, and is very flexible, so it is suitable for constructing greenhouses with an arched vault or in the form of a tunnel. Since this type of coating consists of air-filled cells, it can be argued that it is the most heat-insulating among all possible options.

When considering this type of covering for a potential greenhouse, also consider the following disadvantages:

• when exposed to sunlight, the material will inevitably deteriorate;
• When carrying out installation work, do not forget that polycarbonate tends to expand greatly when heated;
• in the absence of protective elements at the attachment points, the honeycombs of the material will quickly fill with dust or mold, which will render the coating unusable.

When fastening, also consider the following features:

• install the material in such a way that water can flow along the longitudinal strips from the inside;
• there is an ultraviolet filter on one side of the material - this side should be located outside the greenhouse;
• fasten the polycarbonate on specialized self-tapping screws with a thermal washer on them, pre-drill holes in the sheets.

Also take note of the following rules:

• Only transparent polycarbonate is suitable as a covering material. Despite the great aesthetic appeal of the colored one, it transmits the sun's rays much worse, which can lead to the greenhouse not fulfilling its intended purpose.
• Be sure to check the presence of a layer with a UV filter.
• Choose the layer thickness depending on the season in which the greenhouse will be used. In summer and autumn, the thickness of the sheets should be approximately 10-15 mm, in winter - at least 15 mm. Also, this value directly correlates with the strength of the frame - the greater the thickness, the stronger the supporting structure should be.
• When connecting sheets, use special profiles; the use of nails is strictly prohibited.
• Sheets cannot be overlapped.
• Pay attention to the components and do not try to save money on them - the use of an end profile and end strips will significantly extend the durability of the greenhouse.

When choosing, pay attention to the manufacturer. Do not forget that the stingy pays twice, so it is better not to purchase Chinese materials, despite their attractive cost. Among those that have proven themselves well in the market in recent years, we can mention the domestic company Kinplast. This company offers a range of different coatings - from inexpensive to premium options.

Sheets made by the Russian company Aktual will last about 8 years.

This is an inexpensive option, has a fairly soft structure, and is easy to install.

• The Russian-Israeli production Polygal Vostok offers a material that is characterized by rigidity, flexibility, ease of installation, but also has a high price tag.
• "Winpool" is made in China, very soft, fragile, inexpensive, you can count on a service life of 3 years.
• "Sanex" is also a representative of the Chinese market, it is quite tough to work with, is not very convenient during installation, and will last about 4 years.
• “Marlon” is brought to Russia from the UK, the material is quite expensive, but will last for at least 10 years if the operating rules are followed.

Since the market currently has a huge number of options, you can get confused and choose one that is not of very high quality.

To prevent this from happening, pay attention to the following points:

• The surface of the sheets must be uniform and smooth, without any protrusions, irregularities or chips. Also, it should not fall apart into layers.
• The ribs should be positioned at a 90 degree angle and should not be wavy in any way.
• Try to find out from the seller under what conditions the material was stored. Improper storage conditions will quickly reduce its service life. The sheets should lie horizontally, but if they were stored in a vertical position with emphasis on the edge or rolled up, this may reduce the quality of the material.
• Some summer residents prefer a mixed type of covering materials. With this option, the side walls are usually glazed and the ceiling is covered with film. Some farmers prefer to cover the frame with spunbond sheets.

Separately, it is worth noting that it is not recommended to grow different types of crops at the same time in the same greenhouse - simply put, the same room is not suitable for seedlings and fruit and berry crops at home. This aspect must be taken into account when choosing the type of greenhouse. Arched greenhouses that occupy a wide area will not bring much benefit. He considers the optimal size of a simple greenhouse to be 3 by 6 meters - it will not take up much space, in such a greenhouse you can easily grow enough strawberries, cucumbers or tomatoes for a family.

Preparation of materials

Before you start work, carefully study the best designs and drawings from publicly available resources - this will allow you to see the most complete picture of the possibilities provided. Of course, you can create a scheme yourself, but remember that this will require not only the investment of additional time and energy resources. In addition, an error may creep in during calculations, which can lead to the greenhouse losing its quality characteristics.

If we present a diagram of the work performed point by point, the general description of the construction stages will look like this:

• determining the required type of construction;
• preparation of the diagram;
• creating a frame;
• carrying out preparatory work on the area of ​​soil where the greenhouse is planned to be installed;
• laying the foundation;
• mounting the supporting frame;
• fastening of a translucent coating.

When designing yourself or choosing among ready-made options, take into account the requirements for the finished structure, as well as the available materials and preferences in the choice of plant crops. Most often, arched structures with a frame made of polyvinyl chloride pipes are located on personal plots - this is an inexpensive type of greenhouse, quite simple to implement. If a flat site is chosen for construction, it is best to choose a model with two slopes. In the case where you plan to install a greenhouse adjacent to the wall, it is more logical to make it lean-to. The base can be a geometric figure of various shapes - a square or rectangle, a trapezoid.

Before purchasing the materials needed for construction, it is necessary to make a calculation. This will help prevent unnecessary expenses in the future.

When the design is completed and the greenhouse manufacturing scheme has been selected, it is necessary to begin preparing the necessary components for future construction.

If we take the simplest option, which can be built in a couple of days, the set of materials will be as follows:

• Boards soaked in antiseptic, treated with drying oil or burned with a blowtorch. Please note that if you want to save money, you don’t have to buy specialized products, but use time-tested, old-fashioned methods of processing wood and timber. If funds allow, of course, you can purchase factory-made chemicals.
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes. Before making a frame, calculate the required amount of material for construction. After making the calculation, add 10% in reserve, especially if you have to make a pipe bender.
• Durable polyethylene film - the more wear-resistant the material is, the longer it will not require replacement with a new one. You can also use polycarbonate sheets if desired.

• Metal rods or pieces of reinforcement one meter long.
• Self-tapping screws and nails.
• Hinges for fastening windows and doors.
• Accessories – handles for doors and windows.
• Special loops for fastening pipes.

If you decide to use HDPE pipes to form the frame, consider their following features:

• Pipes help create tightness inside the building, which creates favorable conditions for the ripening of crops.
• This material is easy to use and does not require special skills.
• With the help of fasteners, pipes are easy to install and dismantle if necessary. Thus, the frame can be easily assembled for a warm climate period and removed again when the greenhouse is not in use.
• There is no need to use additional reinforcement. The pipes themselves have good characteristics and are self-sufficient in use.

• Plastic, unlike wood or metal, is much less susceptible to environmental influences. Finished products do not need to be treated with anti-corrosion and other protective substances.
• The building may well last at least a decade.
• Since the material has a low specific gravity, the greenhouse can swing during strong gusts of wind. In this case, it is necessary to install additional metal elements in the ground to strengthen the structure.

Please note that metal corners can be used to strengthen the foundation, they will give the structure strength. This element is attached from the inside at the joint between the boards. If the base is made of timber, it is better to use metal brackets for fastening, which are mounted on the outside. The finished foundation should fit tightly to the soil. If cracks appear, cover them with soil.

Assembly and installation

When installing the frame into a finished foundation, metal reinforcement is driven into the ground from the outside at a distance of no more than a meter. Parts of plastic pipes pre-cut to the required length are placed on these blanks. To fasten them together, as well as to mount them on a wooden base, use screws or nails, self-tapping screws. To install elements horizontally, as a rule, pre-drilled plastic couplings, angles and crosses are used from the inside, allowing pipes to cross the connecting elements.

When polycarbonate sheets are used as a covering material, the actions will be as follows:

• The protective film is removed from the sheets, and the top side is marked with a marker. For convenience in carrying out work, it is better to make several marks on each sheet.
• Make blanks for the end walls - for these purposes, a standard size sheet is cut into three equal parts 2 by 2 meters. One of the parts is applied to the end so that all cavities are located vertically. The left side of the sheet is aligned to the left edge, and the outline of the required arc is outlined with a marker. A similar manipulation is performed with the right edge, as a result of which the sheet takes on the contours of two semi-arches. After which they are cut out using a jigsaw, leaving a tolerance of 3-5 cm, and the right end of the building is cut out in the same way.
• The cut out parts are attached to self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Try not to squeeze the material too much. The excess is cut off with a knife.

• The third part of the sheet is used for the door and windows. The sheet is applied vertically to the doorway. The outline of the door is outlined with a margin, the blanks are cut out and attached. The remainder is used to cover the space above the door. It is better to fasten the joints with special profiles.
• To cover the top of the greenhouse, the sheets are laid on arcs, aligned with the bottom edges and trimmed. The sheets should protrude slightly above the end of the building, then they are fixed in the corners.
• The second sheet is laid overlapping the first at the joint, the corners are secured and placed on screws from the bottom edge at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

If it is decided to cover the greenhouse with plastic film, the stages of work will be as follows:

• The film is attached to the frame with staples or wooden slats. Secure it in such a way that there are no tears in the fabric.
• It is necessary to cover the front and back parts of the frame with film. In the part where the door is planned to be made, the film is folded inward.
• Re-measure the doorway, then you need to assemble the frame from the tubes. A film is attached to the resulting frame, the excess is cut off and the door is hung using hinges, the windows are designed according to the same principle. If you are planning glass doors, carefully study the fastening of glass to metal.
• This greenhouse option is only suitable for summer. The next and final stage after building a greenhouse is preparing the soil and planting seedlings.

As mentioned above, for the winter version of the greenhouse it must be equipped with a heating system. Despite the apparent complexity, it is not so difficult.

Among the types of heating are the following:

• solar;
• technical;
• biological.

Technical, in turn, is divided into the following subtypes:

• water;
• gas;
• stove;
• electric.

The solar type is based on the greenhouse effect, which is formed when natural light enters the greenhouse space. This heating option is used only in summer when the sun is active. In the cold season, to achieve the best result, a mixed type is used - a biological-technological option.

The biological species is used both in winter and summer to heat the soil. The soil is removed from the racks, after which manure is placed on the bottom; horse manure is best suited, since its decomposition releases a large amount of heat. Soil containers are filled one third with manure. In addition to manure, you can also use compost - one of its components is also a waste product of horses. Pour all the soil back into the shelving. When the decomposition process begins, the plant roots will begin to warm up. In addition, it will serve as an excellent fertilizer, since manure and compost contain many minerals for plant growth.

The electric heating method is also easy to use. For these purposes, a heating cable laid in a special way is used. Read the instructions first. Please note that the thermal cable can be purchased along with a temperature regulator, so creating the optimal temperature for the seedlings will be quite simple.

Water heating is arranged as follows: the entire perimeter of the greenhouse is laid with a double row of pipes, which are looped into an electric boiler. To connect the boiler, you need to lay an electrical cable. Please note that the boiler can be located inside the greenhouse or can be taken outside of it. Experts insist that the boiler must be taken outside and pre-insulated. These manipulations are done with the aim of more uniform heating. You can also warm up the room using a heat generator. The boiler itself can be purchased in a store or you can make it yourself, but keep in mind that in the second case you cannot do without special knowledge and skills. Further, the procedure is similar - pipes are laid from the boiler under the racks, which are looped. Any solid fuel can be used as fuel: coal, firewood, wood waste.

If there is gasification on your garden plot, heating can be arranged using gas burners or air heaters; for this purpose they need to be placed around the entire perimeter of the building. With a small greenhouse area, it is quite possible to use gas cylinders. If the greenhouse occupies a large area, then it is necessary to connect it to the general gas system of the house. Gas burners create carbon dioxide, which plants need. To ensure that heat is distributed evenly, fans are installed in the building. The burners can also be replaced with a gas factory boiler, but be sure to look at its country of origin.

As a heat source for electric heating of a room, aluminum radiators or electric convectors are used, which are installed at an equal distance along the entire perimeter of the building or located on both sides if the greenhouse area is rectangular in shape. This type of system is connected directly to the power supply or heat supply system.

You can also make a stove in the greenhouse, which is best located at the end of the building. A horizontal chimney is laid from the stove along the entire perimeter of the greenhouse. Metal pipes or brickwork are suitable for these purposes. When connecting the chimney and the vertical riser of the stove, you need to make a small rise at the junction. The higher the riser, the better, because the stove will have good draft. With this type of heating, do not forget to prepare fuel in advance. You can place the stove in a pre-made depression in the ground.

In addition, you can make a water oven from a regular oven. For this purpose, a water heating boiler is installed on it, from which pipes will go to a water tank. The pipes and the boiler are looped using wiring around the entire perimeter of the room. There is also another option - to collect pipes along each of the racks, thereby providing distribution to four different pipes.

We must not forget that plants require the creation of a special microclimate for their successful development and growth; special equipment will help improve these indicators inside the greenhouse, with the help of which you can increase the productivity and yield of grown crops. Additional equipment involves not only additional heating, but also the possibility of ventilation, watering and lighting. As you know, watering plants is a rather labor-intensive process. An automatic system will help relieve the owner of a summer cottage from this hard work, while saving time and water.

Good room ventilation is extremely important in a greenhouse., as it prevents condensation and improves the overall microclimate, which undoubtedly benefits the plants. Properly created air exchange will protect crops from overheating. For natural air movement, it is enough to open doors and vents; an additionally installed fan or hood will increase air circulation.

With short daylight hours, you can’t do without sources of additional lighting. Special lamps will help seedlings get enough light in early spring or late autumn.

Best projects

Be sure to check out the best and most common options, and perhaps you’ll come up with your own ideas.

For cucumbers

Separately, I would like to consider making a greenhouse for cucumbers as one of the most favorite vegetables. Any summer resident knows that cucumbers need warmth and high humidity. With proper organization of protected soil, this vegetable is less susceptible to diseases and can produce a larger harvest.

To obtain a rich harvest, the following requirements are necessary:

• daytime air temperature – no more than 30 degrees, night – no less than 16;
• soil temperature - about 23 degrees;
• calm air without drafts;
• humidity about 80%;
• high degree of illumination;
• insect access if the variety involves bee pollination;
• durable structures for vertical movement of seedlings.

Due to the large number of parts, it is difficult to create the required climate in one room. Let's consider the general disadvantages and advantages of each type of greenhouse for a specific purpose - growing cucumbers.

The advantages include simplicity of design, ease of creation from scrap and existing materials. The small area and internal volume will provide good heating; it is well lit and easily accessible to insects for pollination. Among the disadvantages, one can note such characteristics as low planting density - you can place a maximum of three pieces per square meter, inconvenience when cultivating the soil and harvesting. If you water plants with a watering can, the water reaches the leaves, which can cause burns. The greenhouse needs to be constantly opened and closed, otherwise the crops will overheat and die.

Arch type with film

The advantages of this type of greenhouse are that it is easy to construct and does not require expensive materials; it has sufficient internal space for growing vertical bushes. The film coating retains moisture well, promotes rapid heating of the soil and air, and transmits light well. Disadvantages: the film is a short-lived material and requires regular replacement; it has poor thermal insulation properties, so in the event of early frosts, the greenhouse will have to be covered additionally. When building a greenhouse of this type, it is necessary to have vents, since drafts will inevitably arise when the doors are opened.

Polycarbonate covered

Pros: high structural strength of the frame, high ceilings and sufficient interior space. Polycarbonate perfectly transmits sunlight and has an excellent ability to diffuse it. Provides convenient conditions for watering plants and cultivating the soil, making it easy to harvest. The provided vent openings provide good ventilation and absence of drafts.

Disadvantages: large financial costs for purchasing materials or finished products. Polycarbonate strongly reflects light, causing energy loss. The covering and frame require constant maintenance; in winter, snow must be cleared from the greenhouse. Difficult access for pollinating insects.

Gable with glazed wooden frames

The advantages are as follows: a noteworthy design, which has already become a classic, demonstrates high thermal insulation properties. Good heating of the entire interior space of the room. Glass has excellent light transmittance; when placing vents on the roof, the possibility of drafts is eliminated. The ability to plant a large number of plants, having convenient access to them. Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the heaviness of the frame requires preliminary laying of the foundation. Wood requires mandatory preliminary and regular subsequent treatment, otherwise the frames will quickly begin to rot. It is also worth considering that glass is a fragile and traumatic material, and also does not have any scattering properties, which can lead to burns to plant leaves.

With one ramp

Positive characteristics: it is always attached to a house or barn on the north side, which ensures that the slope faces south to receive the maximum amount of sun rays. The room assumes rapid warming up and long-term heat retention, and also gives scope when choosing materials for construction. Negative characteristics: if the sun is active, it will be difficult to avoid overheating; curtains and a high-quality ventilation system are needed. If a greenhouse is built next to a house, a prerequisite is good waterproofing and protection of the greenhouse from snow and ice.

Mittleider

An undoubted advantage is the special location of the vents - they are located in the roof and face south, which leaves no possibility of drafts and helps maintain an optimal microclimate. The greenhouse is large, has high ceilings and a lot of space inside.

The disadvantages are related to the complexity of the design and the inability to build it yourself without accurate drawings and installation skills. If the doors are closed, insects will not be able to get inside; either self-pollinating varieties are suitable for such a greenhouse, or additional bait varieties will have to be planted. Among other things, a greenhouse requires close care.

Pyramid shaped

Pros: The central part is ideal for growing cucumbers vertically. Excellent lighting, easy to install, only budget materials are needed.

Cons: small area, inconvenient to care for plants. Insect access is difficult. The structure is unstable and can easily be blown away by the wind.

For tomatoes

Polycarbonate greenhouses create ideal conditions for the harmonious ripening of fruits. Tomato is a crop that loves sunlight and warmth; the optimal temperature for growing them is 22-25 degrees. If the soil has a high clay content, then humus, sawdust or peat must be added to the soil at the rate of one bucket per square meter.

Planted seedlings must be watered frequently until they are fully developed. If the nights are quite cool, it is better not to water the plants after sunset so as not to overcool the soil. It makes sense to water from a watering can during the hottest time of the season. Next, the seedlings need to be pruned and tied, thereby ensuring uniform lighting and ventilation of the beds. With this growing option, tomatoes ripen much faster and it is possible to reap a good harvest. The plants are then secured to wire trellises or stakes, giving them space to grow further.

For greenery

During the cold winter months, there is nothing better than a bunch of fresh herbs, especially if you grow them yourself. What’s especially nice is that greenhouse greens are not too demanding to care for and produce several harvests a year. You can choose the type of greenery based on your own preferences.

Most people who use winter greenhouses to grow greens prefer dill, celery and parsley.

• When growing dill, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature regime - the thermometer should not fall below 15 degrees. In addition, dill needs constant spraying and does not tolerate drafts and cold winds, so be extremely careful when ventilating the greenhouse. The first harvest can be obtained in just two months with proper care.
• When growing parsley, there are several more nuances - firstly, this type of plant can be grown in the form of roots or seeds. In the first option, the root crop must first be kept in sand, the temperature of which does not exceed two degrees, after which it is planted in heavily moistened soil. If you plan to grow parsley from seeds, the seeds, previously kept in a damp cloth, are planted in the soil. As a rule, germination takes no more than ten days. The harvest is about one and a half kilograms of greenery per square meter.

• Celery loves well-fertilized, soft soil; cow or chicken manure is perfect as a fertilizer. The temperature in the greenhouse should be between 15 and 20 degrees. Watering for plants is necessary infrequently, but as abundantly as possible, and care must be taken that the water does not touch the leaves of the seedlings. Pay special attention to lighting, since the amount of harvest directly depends on the length of daylight hours.
• Many people love mint and enjoy using it in cooking. This type of plant tolerates frosts down to eight degrees below zero, while sprouting at the lowest temperatures above zero. Experts recommend using hydroponics or biological heating of the soil with peat as soil. Carefully monitor the soil moisture; drying it out is strictly unacceptable. If you plan to grow mint, it is best to equip the greenhouse with a drip irrigation system.
• Mint, like most crops, does not tolerate temperature changes, not only because sudden changes can destroy the plants, such moments can lead to a dangerous disease - powdery mildew. Also extremely dangerous pests for mint are spider mites and greenhouse whiteflies. You can defeat them by spraying the crop with industrial means or time-tested folk recipes.

For better rooting of seeds in the soil, you must first dry them in a draft. If you cannot plant the seeds directly, it is quite possible to grow seedlings at home and then plant them in the ground for 10-14 days.

Not all summer residents have the time and desire to understand the intricacies of the technology for constructing a greenhouse on a site with their own hands. At the moment, the market is filled with ready-made greenhouses of a wide variety of options. The first thing you need to do is decide for what purpose the greenhouse is being purchased. If we are talking about growing crops for family consumption, this is one thing, but if a summer resident considers a greenhouse as a way to increase his income and wants to put the resulting crop up for sale, the situation will be different. In the first case, you can get by with an inexpensive option, in the second, of course, the financial investment will be much higher and the cost of maintaining the greenhouse will also increase.

Many summer residents and gardeners become so accustomed to home-grown produce that they strive to receive fresh vegetables throughout the year. To realize this desire, the farmer will need to move to the highest level of gardening skill - build a greenhouse. Constructing a greenhouse with your own hands on your own site is truly a great achievement, which, however, will require a lot of work, knowledge and resources. In addition, depending on the needs, not only the type of greenhouse will change, but even its location, size and shape.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands? A step-by-step construction demonstration will be shown later in this article.

Advantages of greenhouses

In order for a little-informed gardener to fully understand and appreciate the value of a greenhouse, and then figure out how to make a greenhouse with his own hands, a number of main advantages should be highlighted. Of course, each type of greenhouse also has individual properties, but a certain general number of outstanding characteristics still stands out:

• Tightness of the structure to maintain temperature conditions;
• Ease of installation and, if necessary, dismantling of some types of structures;
• Durability;
• Polygonal greenhouses are able to absorb the maximum amount of sunlight;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Aesthetic appearance that allows you to fit into the surroundings of a winter garden or landscape design.

This is only a small part of the advantages that building a greenhouse with your own hands has. It should be noted that often, in addition to cost, such greenhouses have many more advantages than store-bought options. But first you will need to figure out how to properly build a greenhouse with your own hands. However, any greenhouses also have some common disadvantages, which should also be highlighted:

• Corrosion or rotting of the structure;
• Instability and vulnerability to weather factors (hail, strong wind);
• Uneven air heating.

Even a person far from construction can build a greenhouse on the site with his own hands. It is enough just to carefully select materials, carefully build the greenhouse with your own hands, and during operation follow the rules for maintaining the structure. However, those who decide to undertake such an event will first of all need to decide on the type, materials, dimensions, shape and installation location. We will look at how to build a greenhouse with our own hands and the step-by-step preparation process below.

Types of greenhouses

Today there is a wide variety of different types of greenhouses. We make a greenhouse with our own hands and decide on its type according to the following selection criteria and priorities.

Operation criterion

First of all, the farmer needs to decide how he plans to operate the greenhouse: all year round or seasonally. This will make it possible to understand whether the design of the greenhouse will be collapsible or not, and in addition, winter greenhouses have a more complex design and are more demanding in terms of operating conditions.

By location relative to ground level

If you decide for yourself that I am building a greenhouse with my own hands, then the most traditional option is to place the greenhouse directly on the surface of the ground. In the case where the greenhouse structure is planned to be heated, it can be deepened into the ground, as well as be an adjoining structure. If necessary, a special foundation can also be laid. In some cases, a greenhouse is built on the top floor of an existing building: a house, a garage, a barn.

By functionality

Everything here is determined by what exactly the gardener plans to grow, especially if it is a do-it-yourself vegetarian greenhouse. Among the main options: traditional garden crops, mushrooms, flowers, fruits, exotic plants. The choice will directly affect the internal arrangement of the greenhouse.

According to architectural solution

In this case, there are many options: one, two or three-slope greenhouses, combined, wall-mounted, arched or horizontal. Or maybe it’s an arched winter garden. The choice will directly affect the final cost of construction and the dimensions of the structure.

By types of building materials

The resources used to construct a greenhouse are divided into two types: frame and covering materials. Wood, metal, plastic or even brick can be used to construct the frame. The coating can be polycarbonate, conventional glazing and many other options. If necessary, the gardener can resort to a combined design.

These were the main criteria for preparing the construction of a greenhouse with your own hands, and among others, one can distinguish the division of greenhouses by type of heating, method of planting, etc.

An interesting point is that greenhouses are quite diverse structures, which can be different in design and interior design. It could be a good-quality, but hastily and primitively put together structure, or it could be a sufficiently technological and equipped point for year-round growing of crops.

It is important to remember that all summer cottages are in different conditions, i.e., even with careful selection of the appropriate type of greenhouse, the expected result and the final result, as well as ideas for DIY greenhouses, can still vary greatly.

Thus, it is recommended that a gardener starting from scratch get acquainted with greenhouses and greenhouses, start with budget options, and also not aim at large areas and large volumes of harvest.

Selecting a location

The construction of greenhouses is one of the most important issues, which is determined by many factors and, in turn, affects a lot. There are a number of factors that must be taken into account.

Light mode

The greenhouse should constantly, and especially in winter, receive maximum sunlight. Therefore, we build a greenhouse by orienting it along its length from west to east.

Correct orientation

Here you should take into account the direction and nature of the winds. If they can disturb the internal temperature regime of the greenhouse, then it will be necessary to provide wind protection. For light and unstable structures, especially if we build a greenhouse with our own hands, the wind can pose a threat of a completely destructive nature. In this case, it is very important to ensure the stability of the structure as a whole, as well as all its fasteners and components in particular. It is important that the terrain is level and not in a low place where moisture would flow.

The soil should not be clayey, and ideally it should correspond to the type of plant chosen by the gardener.

Convenience

We are talking about a convenient and comfortable approach to the greenhouse, as well as working inside it. A wide passage and free space around the structure will ensure not only easier construction, but also operation. In addition, care should be taken to supply communications to the greenhouse, which will be especially needed there in winter.

Remoteness

Ideally, the greenhouse should be located in an open space and away from other structures on the site, as well as large plantings. This allows you to get rid of many problems by default and ensure optimal conditions inside the greenhouse. If the area of ​​the plot is small or due to the chosen type of greenhouse, such an arrangement is impossible, then the construction of the greenhouse is carried out on the south side.

A deliberate approach to solving the issue of greenhouse placement will allow you to achieve the maximum possible effect, as well as eliminate a number of problems and unnecessary hassles.

Shape selection

The most common form for building a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands is arched and gable greenhouses. The greenhouse that you are planning to build can also have different geometric shapes, for example, an oval, a circle, a square (or rectangle) and even a trapezoid. Greenhouses in the form of a tent are becoming quite popular.

Depending on the location of the greenhouse, as well as the height of the plants grown, both the shape and size of the structure will directly depend. In some areas, the greenhouse is an integral component of the entire landscape design composition, and therefore its shape and size must be chosen to create maximum aesthetics.

One of the main advantages of building a greenhouse with your own hands instead of purchasing a ready-made store-bought structure is the ability to independently vary the shape and size of the structure to suit your own needs. With collapsible structures, if desired, you can even experiment every time, combining several options for greenhouses or testing new designs. Non-demountable structures can be built, providing for the possibility of their subsequent expansion or modification, without serious intervention.

Size selection

As mentioned above, the size of the greenhouse is determined not only by its location, but primarily by the height of the plants that will be grown in it. Of course, for each individual case the dimensions will be individual. However, the experience of gardeners shows that the most common and optimal options for greenhouse area are structures three meters wide and six meters long. With such dimensions, the structure will not take up much space on the site, but at the same time will provide an impressive harvest. The length will be determined by the capabilities of the land plot, the assigned tasks, and the area of ​​free space.

An important point is that when planning the size of the greenhouse, the presence of a wide path should be provided. This is quite an important point, both for the construction and operation of the greenhouse. This is explained by the fact that the gardener will need to regularly supply fertilizers, tools and other items. In addition, there should be free access to the plants themselves from the path, so that there is no need to constantly step directly into the planted area. Thus, the recommended track width is about 0.6 meters.

Maintenance of the greenhouse in a bent position is unacceptable, and therefore the height of the structure should be at least two meters. In general, based on the experience of gardeners, the most optimal greenhouse height is in the range of 2.2-2.5 meters.

Selection of materials

When choosing a material, first of all we are talking about the material directly for the main frame when deciding how to build a greenhouse. It is determined mainly by two factors: the type of future greenhouse and the size of the budget.

Greenhouse frame materials

To build the frame, all kinds of materials are used, each of which has its own purpose, as well as advantages and disadvantages.

How to make a greenhouse The most budget option is to use PVC pipes. Thanks to their lightness and flexibility, it is possible to quickly and easily build the structure of a future greenhouse with your own hands. Such a greenhouse will be of an arched type, since a pipe bent in an arc in the form of an arch is attached to the reinforcement driven into the ground. With the right approach, such a greenhouse can be erected in one day. It is best suited for those who are building a greenhouse for the first time and have not yet fully decided on its need on their site.

A more expensive and high-quality material for constructing a greenhouse with your own hands is wood. With minimal carpentry skills and tools, this material is quite easy to process and create a frame of the required dimensions from it. Then the future greenhouse can be glazed or covered with film. On any site, such a design will look beautiful and solid. To ensure its durability, you will need to not only take care of the reliability of all fasteners, but also protect the wood from rotting and other negative factors.

In order to save money, builders are recommended not to use expensive branded wood processing products, but to replace them with improvised options. As an example, wooden beams can be impregnated with resin, and then smeared several times with drying oil and finally treated with a blowtorch. Protection from rotting and other negative factors will be provided to no less extent.

Metal is also one of the most commonly used materials for greenhouse construction. The advantage is that the iron is attached only by welding, but this is also a disadvantage, since it will require not only skills, but also equipment for welding. Alternatively, how to make your own greenhouse and prefabricated building that will be bolted on, however this is much more labor intensive and time consuming. Due to the increased mass of the iron frame, such a greenhouse often requires its own foundation. In addition, care should be taken to protect the metal structure from corrosion.

Coating materials

The frame of the future greenhouse can be covered with various materials to create the expected greenhouse effect. The most common are the following three options: glass, film and polycarbonate.

Polyethylene film for greenhouses can be of several types:

• Heat-saving. It contains an adsorbent that does not transmit infrared radiation from the soil at night. In addition, it increases the temperature inside the greenhouse itself;
• Ultraviolet stabilized. Allows you to increase the service life of the film under direct influence of solar radiation by almost ten times;
• Light scattering. Protects plants, especially seedlings, from harsh irradiation by sunlight, under its direct influence.

There are other less common types of film. In general, this is a short-lived material, designed to last for two years, in some cases up to four. The main advantage is low cost and ease of use.

Glass is the oldest and most traditional material. The main advantage is the extremely high light transmittance. Disadvantages include: heavy weight, fragility, difficulty of fastening and the need for a rigid frame. The glass must be strong enough to withstand the load exerted by wind, hail and precipitation. The best solution would be to use triplex or tempered glass.

It is worth noting that glass has a high transmittance of sunlight, but at the same time, along with useful infrared radiation, plants are also exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Polycarbonate is a modern and practical material that combines the best qualities of glass and polyethylene. For greenhouses, cellular polycarbonate is used, which is represented by a two-layer sheet structure inside, which has stiffening ribs. This material is quite inexpensive and elastic. It is easy to install and, if necessary, dismantling, its service life reaches ten years. The structure of polycarbonate allows it to simultaneously provide good thermal insulation and dispersion of rays.

The variety of materials allows you to satisfy any budget, gardener’s needs and meet the characteristics of each site. Most materials are easy enough to transport and process that structures made from them can be erected literally within one day or weekend.

Choosing a foundation

Before you build a greenhouse with your own hands, you need to create a foundation on the selected site. To do this, you will need a flat and flat area, in which a small depression of a few centimeters should be made along the contour of the future greenhouse. Wooden beams or boards can be used as the main material for laying the foundation. It is important to remember that the finished foundation should fit tightly, and if there are cracks, they should be covered with earth.

Before proceeding with the installation of the foundation, you should plan and sand the surface of the boards, and then walk over it with protective substances.

In order to strengthen the future foundation, it is recommended to fix the entire structure with additional metal elements (brackets, corners). In the case of using wooden boards, metal corners are attached at the internal joints, and if timber is used, then the use of staples will be more appropriate and they will need to be driven in at the external joints of the structure.

In the case when the greenhouse is removable and is used for a certain season, then there is no need to worry about a serious foundation. However, a greenhouse used all year round will require a well-prepared foundation. Ideally, this should be a monolithic strip foundation, whose base is located below the freezing level of the soil. The depth of the ditch should be about eighty centimeters, and the lower part is filled with crushed stone. In addition, it is recommended to strengthen the base with reinforcement or reinforced mesh.

Heating

A heated greenhouse is a great way to extend the growing season and fruiting, especially if it is a do-it-yourself greenhouse for flowers. There are several ways to arrange a heating system inside a greenhouse, which depend on the available budget, the area of ​​the greenhouse and its purpose.

You can completely install the heating system for a greenhouse yourself.

Of course, heating systems are installed mainly in greenhouses with year-round use. Among the most effective methods of heating greenhouses are the following:

• Stove heating, with water or air circuit;
• Water heating based on a boiler (solid fuel, electric or gas);
• Gas gun;
• Electric convectors;
• Infrared heaters;
• Water heating pipes;
• Heating cable.

It should be noted that depending on individual needs, heating methods can be combined. Each of the presented methods is quite multifaceted and has many nuances.

The choice of a heating system is made not only according to the factors mentioned above, but also according to a number of other aspects. For example, the type of energy consumed and its quantity, operating principle (heating time, cycle duration, etc.), level of heating efficiency and useful work.

Ventilation

When deciding how to properly make a greenhouse with your own hands, you should take everything into account. The basis of the work of each greenhouse is the creation of a greenhouse effect, thanks to the special design of the structure itself. Of course, in conditions of almost complete tightness, exposure to heat and other factors, the air inside the room quickly stagnates.

This phenomenon is a favorable environment for the proliferation of pests, diseases and other negative factors, and, therefore, it must be combated. It is recommended to create a ventilation system to regulate the microclimate in the room, ensure the flow of fresh air, and maintain optimal air humidity. Of course, the ventilation operating mode should not conflict with the operation of other devices, such as heating or shading.

You should also worry about creating devices for greenhouse ventilation. These can be roof and side vents, as well as doors. The surface of these devices should be one fifth of the total area of ​​the structure.

Ventilation promotes hardening of crops planted in a greenhouse, and is also useful for young seedlings. Before directly planting seedlings, it is recommended to regularly ventilate the greenhouse premises not only during the day, but also at night.

beds

Preparing beds in a greenhouse is a rather problematic process that will require a special approach. Success in growing any plants depends to a large extent on the location and design of the beds. When it comes to forming beds, many different factors are taken into account, and the main ones include the following:

• The total area of ​​the greenhouse;
• Ease of access and approaches;
• Type and specificity of plants;
• Dimensions of the beds themselves (height, length and width);
• Location relative to cardinal directions.

In addition, you will have to take care of the frame for the beds, the bedding for insulation for the winter, the uniformity of watering, lighting and heating of the entire planted surface of the beds, because all this is the solution to the question of how to properly make a greenhouse.

Now you know enough theoretical basis to have a complete understanding of what you should know, understand and prepare before directly building a greenhouse with your own hands. The operating principle of a greenhouse and step-by-step instructions on how to build a greenhouse with your own hands are topics for separate detailed articles.

If you want to diversify your personal diet, and, moreover, please your family with real natural vitamins before the next seasonal harvest appears, and with the right approach, even deliver fresh berries and vegetables to the table throughout the year, it is optimal to purchase a greenhouse or greenhouse from us, and if you have With certain skills and free time, you can build a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself. How to make a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself?

Of course, before you get down to business, you should think through the various parameters and nuances of the potential process, and thoroughly understand the question of how to create a greenhouse with your own hands:

• you need to decide how much area of ​​the site can be free;
• solve the issue of the functionality of the design, that is, will the greenhouse be relevant throughout the year or will it be used only in the spring. The year-round option requires a lot of effort and materials, because you will have to additionally provide heating, lighting, water and equip high-quality ventilation;
• then the type of structure and the materials from which it will be built are determined.

In order not to make a mistake in this case, it is better to consider the variations of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Types of greenhouses and greenhouses

Nowadays there are many modifications of greenhouses and greenhouses, and based on the general principle of their arrangement, craftsmen create personal options, sometimes individual details for a given agricultural structure. Greenhouses are usually divided according to different criteria, for example, according to the forms and materials of release, stationarity, and also the time of construction.

Design features of greenhouses and greenhouses

The frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is usually made of boards, and the useful volume is formed thanks to a lid in the form of glazed frames; they can be opened if necessary. This solution is optimal for growing seedlings and herbs, so that all this appears on the table as early as possible.

A temporary type of greenhouse, installed only for the period from spring to summer, is considered to be a combination of a wooden frame, plastic film, and fiberglass reinforcement. This solution will last for quite a long time if you disassemble the structure into parts in winter and store everything indoors. As a result, you will simply replace the film with a new canvas; it is not difficult and not expensive.

Some craftsmen install a greenhouse in a large old barrel; it is also used in the spring, but it is not necessary to remove it from the site in winter, because the structure can serve as a flower bed, or even an open bed.

The next solution requires forced heating, and is used immediately after the snow has melted. The structure is made of boards, metal-plastic reinforcement, covered with plastic film, and in order to look after the plants, you can go right inside.

A permanent greenhouse is equipped with various necessary parts and a certain microclimate is created inside it, which guarantees the operation of the building throughout the year. To do this, it is enough to make a not particularly deep foundation, then a brick base, and thoroughly insulate everything.

Such a greenhouse can even be attached to one of the walls of the living space, then it will be easier to connect the system to communications. It is convenient to care for plants throughout the year if you have access to the greenhouse from your home.

In order to save on heating in the winter season, you can install a kind of greenhouse-thermos; a pit is dug for it, the depth of which is 1.7-2 m, then everything is covered with a transparent roof. The solution is interesting, but the main thing is to take care of the ventilation system. Of course, this option is labor-intensive in its own way, but the resulting design guarantees savings in energy costs.

What should the roof shape be?

Before you make a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands, you need to determine its shape; do not forget in any case that you will also need to install a roof, and this is an effective detail in growing plants. The most popular solutions:

• gable roof, greenhouses of this type are in demand, because they are really spacious and comfortable to be in, moreover, both for plants and gardeners. With proper design, installation and choice of material, the room will be illuminated by sunlight throughout the day. Greenhouses of this type are equipped as winter gardens, planting them not so much with vegetables, but with exotic plants. Of course, this option will be realized only when the proper conditions are organized, there are reliable heating systems, lighting and irrigation;

• arched roof, this solution for an arched greenhouse is extremely easy to install when compared with its gable counterpart. The bottom line is that a form covered with polycarbonate, or, alternatively, with plastic film, ideally diffuses sunlight throughout the room, so the plants will receive maximum natural heat. Another important point in this case is that due to the arched shape, no precipitation in the form of snow remains on the roof, that is, it will not be deformed or damaged due to the increased load in the winter season;

• a pitched roof is ideal for greenhouses, which have one wall adjacent to a massive building, for example, a house, or even a large stone fence, always on the south side. You can really save money on the construction of this greenhouse, because one of its sides will be a finished wall, with the base itself attached to it. In addition to all that has been said, it will be extremely easy to carry out communications into the greenhouse. When designing a greenhouse with a pitched roof, you should choose the slope of the slope correctly, this is the only way snow will not lie on the surface of the roof, because the increased load will only damage the coating.

Basic material for greenhouse covering

When making a greenhouse at home, you need to understand that certain greenhouse designs require different materials, but usually they are united by one feature - the material for covering the walls, as well as the roof, must be transparent, transmitting a sufficient amount of light.

The table below contains information about the current physical, as well as technological, and, moreover, performance indicators of the three most popular materials. Namely polycarbonate, polyethylene film, and also classic silicate glass.

Technical and operational parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Difficulty of installation and weight	Light weight, self-supporting material. It makes it possible to reduce the number of frame parts and even completely abandon the foundation	Glass is a heavy material, therefore, if it is chosen for coating, the building must have a strong frame and a reliable foundation (foundation)	A very light material that needs to be securely fastened to the frame.
Durability	The practice-proven operational period of the coating is about 20-25 years, the manufacturer provides a guarantee for 10 years of its service. Polycarbonate, due to its rigidity, is itself an element of the load-bearing structure. Once secured, it does not cause deformation or distortion.	The material is durable if protected from the mechanical effects of heavy loads (snow and hail).	The service life of the film is very short, at best - 2-3 years, since it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
Noise insulation	The material, thanks to its cellular structure, dampens wind noise well.	If the installation is poor, the wind can penetrate into the greenhouse, and the glass can make ringing or rattling noises.	It creates almost no sound insulation, and in strong winds it rustles in the wind.
Appearance	The aesthetic and modern appearance of the material makes the greenhouse even, to a certain extent, a decorative element of a suburban area	The glass has a fairly neat appearance if installed according to all the rules.	The material looks neat only in the first year after it is fixed, then the film becomes cloudy and collapses, especially if it is left on the frame for the winter.
Safety	Polycarbonate is safe and does not break when dropped. It is 200 times stronger and at the same time 15 times lighter than fragile and quite heavy glass.	Glass shards are very dangerous if they fall into the soil, as they can cause serious injury. Therefore, for safety reasons, glass installation must be carried out in strict compliance with all safety rules.	From the point of view of causing injuries, it is completely safe.
Care	Dust is practically invisible on the surface of the material, and if it is heavily soiled, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.	Raindrops can linger on the surface of the glass, and then, when dry, they leave cloudy marks. To wash off these stains from the surface, you will have to make a lot of effort.	It is not recommended to wash the film, as cloudy stains will remain on it, which will prevent the penetration of light.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate perfectly insulates the room. Droplets formed as a result of condensation of rising evaporation flow down the walls of the greenhouse and do not fall on the plants or on the gardener’s head. The material transmits and diffuses sunlight very well. The heat generated by plants and soil does not escape through the greenhouse coverings, and therefore the necessary greenhouse effect is formed.	Glass does not provide the same high thermal insulation as polycarbonate, so the greenhouse effect is significantly reduced. The material transmits light well, but does not scatter it, and low-quality glass often begins to act like a lens, which is undesirable for plant leaves.	The new dense film creates good thermal insulation, but after working for one season, it becomes thinner and cloudy, so it loses its ability to completely retain heat and transmit light.

Taking into account the indicated parameters, it is possible to determine the best material for a particular greenhouse or greenhouse, which will be more consistent with their design.

Careful preparation for the construction of a greenhouse, its placement on the site

In order for the planting in the greenhouse to receive the light it needs for development, and to receive it throughout the day, the structure should be correctly distributed and oriented on the site. The final harvest largely depends on how long the beds are illuminated with natural light. For this reason, it is customary to install greenhouses in open space, alternatively with a transparent plane to the south.

Having decided on the type of greenhouse or greenhouse, and having found the optimal place for it on the site, plus, having distributed personal forces and capabilities, you can proceed to drawing up a sketch, and also a small drawing.

Designing a greenhouse or greenhouse

It is not at all necessary to draw every detail using a ruler, given the strict rules of drawing art. If you are the owner and want to do everything on your own, the project is intended for you and your assistants; you can simply draw a greenhouse by hand in a projection in which you can see all sides of the building, then indicate the dimensions of the main parts on them. Marking is usually done using rope and pegs; they are simply driven in around the perimeter of the potential pit.

What do you need to know about the pit and foundation?

If you have chosen a thermos greenhouse that will function throughout the year, then before digging a pit, it is best to carefully remove the top fertile layer of soil from the area. This soil is transferred to an individual pile, then it will be placed in the beds of the greenhouse. When deepening a pit, you suddenly come across layers of clay located under the fertile base; it is also better to put it aside, separately from the mixed soil.

Clay will pay off when adobe bricks are produced; they will be used to insulate the greenhouse. The depth of the pit should reach at least 1.7 m, but most often it is deepened to 2 m. It is at this distance that the natural geothermal heat that comes from the ground is preserved, thus the soil never freezes. Naturally, if a greenhouse is not equipped in the northern regions of the country, there is always permafrost there, even at shallow depths.

As for the width of the pit, the optimal figure is 2-5 m, and the length is determined based on desire. You cannot make the greenhouse wider, because it will quickly cool down, and heating and lighting will require a huge amount of electrical and other energy. Apart from the pit itself, a smooth descent is made, where as a result the entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed. If the place is marked for an all-season version of the greenhouse, it is optimal to dig a trench there for a strip foundation, up to 0.3 m wide and deep.

This is really enough, since the structure is not heavy, so there is minimal load on the foundation. In height, directly above the ground, it is optimal to raise the foundation by 0.2-0.5 m, although sometimes only 0.1 m is poured, the rest of the wall is built from brick if necessary. Then sand is poured into the trench and compacted in a layer of 0.5-0.7 m, then crushed stone in an identical layer. Afterwards, formwork is installed along the trench, with a slight recess into it, and as a result it is filled with concrete mortar. You should make sure that the concrete lies tightly and there is no air in it; to avoid problems, it is optimal to carry out bayoneting by piercing the poured mortar with a bayonet shovel.

Sometimes it happens that support posts made of metal pipes are built into the foundation; other parts of the greenhouse or greenhouse will eventually be attached to them. It is possible that the basis for the greenhouse can be a wooden frame made of timber; it is treated with an antiseptic and installed on a sand cushion.

Installation of greenhouses

Everything is clear with the base, you can move on to installing the option you like.

Greenhouse or greenhouse on a wooden frame

A greenhouse that does not require a concrete foundation, where the base is a strong wooden frame, is installed without any particular difficulties:

A base box made of timber, with a cross-section of 20x15 cm, is laid on a smooth, prepared platform, covered with sand. The base should be in close contact with the surface of the earth over the entire area. For this reason, if, when laying the frame, a gap appears between it and the surface, it is better to seal it with a stone lining. It is imperative to level the frame, otherwise the greenhouse will be uneven and its operation will be unstable.

After you level the box, you need to drive 0.7 m long pieces of reinforcement into the ground at its inner corners; this measure is important to fix the base in one place.

The next stage is driving in reinforcement along the long side of the box, moreover, 0.7-0.8 m should go into the ground, and 0.6-0.7 m should remain on the surface. The reinforcement should be at a distance of 0.5-0.7 m from each other, moreover, opposite similar rods installed on the other side of the box, since this is the basis for securing the pipes.

Pre-prepared metal-plastic pipes of the required length should be placed on the surface part of the reinforcement. A kind of arcade is formed, which will serve as the basis for a transparent coating.

To ensure that the pipes stay tightly in one place, it is better to strengthen them with metal loops that are screwed to the box with self-tapping screws.

If the structure is voluminous, it is better to strengthen it well at the end sides; they should stand rigidly. This frame not only guarantees rigidity, but also forms the doorway.

To do this, you need to place the bars vertically, the cross-section of which is 5x5 cm, then fasten everything in several places with horizontal crossbars. Sometimes, assuming that transverse fastenings are indispensable, pipes for arches are connected with cross adapters, and horizontal sections of pipes are installed in them.

Another option for imparting full rigidity to the structure is to fasten the arcade at the top of the vault with a single pipe.

Fastening can be done with wire or plastic clamps, construction tape or “ties”.

The frame, which is formed from pipes, must be covered with thick polyethylene film, it is laid out with an overlap of 0.2-0.25 m. In the lower part, the film is attached with construction staples and a stapler to a wooden box. Initially, the film is well stretched over the arcade, then attached to the end sides; at the doors, the material is folded into the greenhouse.

The door itself should be light, but be a rigid structure. It is usually created from a 0.5 x 0.3 m block, plus to prevent deformation, a pair of slats are attached diagonally. Then the resulting fabric is covered with plastic film. It is customary to hang the door on a previously prepared opening using hinges. Window openings are installed exactly like this part; they are located almost under the ceiling, on the opposite side of the door. This will ensure natural flowing air circulation.

Features of a thermos greenhouse

Construction of foundations for walls

After the pit for the greenhouse is ready, a strip foundation is created along its perimeter. To do this, a trench must be dug, then various actions are carried out, identical to those described earlier, where we were talking about the foundation for a winter greenhouse.

When the foundation is completely ready, the walls begin to be laid; we must not forget about installing one or two ventilation pipes. They are installed in the lower part of the end side of the building, opposite the entrance door, at a height of 0.5 m from the floor.

After installing the roof, it is customary to raise the pipes to a height directly above the ground, at least 1 m.

Proper wall laying

The walls are usually laid from adobe, foam concrete blocks, sometimes from permanent formwork made from polystyrene foam blocks; their cavities must be filled with cement mortar. If the latter option is the most relevant, you can immediately get insulated walls, but in this case it is valuable to separate the structure from the ground with plastic film. As soon as the stone walls are erected, the gap between the soil and the masonry should be sealed with clay, while compacting it well. The diagram of the greenhouse-thermos is clear in the lower figure.

The walls need to be raised from the foundation above the ground by at least 0.5-0.6 m. If permanent formwork was not used for them, then everything should be optimally insulated to the depth of soil freezing, taking into account the regional climatic conditions where the greenhouse is being built.

Insulation can be installed on the outside of the wall, that is, between it and the ground. For this reason, the gap between them will have to be widened, then the insulation will have to be separated from the ground using a waterproof film. When the insulation is polystyrene foam, it will rise above the ground surface, in particular, from the outside of the building, while it is important to waterproof everything, then seal it with an external decorative coating. It is optimal if it turns out to be a material that does not rot when moisture comes into contact with it. For example, a plastic lining will do.

Closing the insulation can be done using another method, for example, covering the entire outside with expanded clay and covering it with roofing material on top. In this case, corrugated sheeting is justified; it is attached below the polycarbonate, or even glazing. In this case, polyethylene film for covering the roof will pay off.

Frame installation

The next stage will be the installation of a frame to cover the walls, and also the ceiling, with polycarbonate, because its installation is simple and safe.

Initially, the bars are laid and secured with anchors on the walls that are raised from the pit; their cross-sectional size is literally 10-15 cm.

The rafters, as well as the ridge beams, should have a similar cross-sectional size as the beams mounted on the walls. A sparse sheathing is attached to the rafters, literally 2-3 bars per slope. In this case, it is needed to guarantee the rigidity of the structure. Then polycarbonate sheets are attached to the sheathing. They are attached with certain self-tapping screws with a large head, in other words, a press washer, and also a rubber gasket.

Upon completion of the installation of the roof covering, the end walls of the greenhouse are finished with polycarbonate, then the finished door is installed. It’s great if it has a glazed part. In addition to all this, the upper part of the ventilation, a kind of hole, is installed almost under the roof itself, and a pipe is attached there.

How to strengthen the structure?

It is important to focus on the fact that you need to leave the part of the roof that faces south open to sunlight, because the sun spends more time there during the day. Another roof slope from the inside of the greenhouse is covered with foil insulation, which will reflect the light falling on it through the transparent part of the roof. For this purpose, it is optimal to use foamed polyethylene, the thickness of which is 5 mm, with a foil part.

Fastening occurs to the roof rafters thanks to self-tapping screws with a wide head. At the junction, the insulation must be folded onto the wall. In a similar way, it is customary to insulate the walls of a greenhouse; the material is fastened on vertical stone planes with liquid nails, or even a sheathing of thin slats is installed on the wall, plus polyethylene foam is secured with self-tapping screws.

The purpose of the foil coating is not simply to reflect light into the space, but also to conserve carbon dioxide, heat and moisture, which are vital during the photosynthesis that occurs in plants.

How to organize heating in a greenhouse?

To prevent heat from escaping outside the greenhouse or greenhouse for a long time, it is customary to install doors on the ventilation openings. The room can be heated in different ways, for example, with an electrical “warm home” system, then with convectors and a long-burning stove. And if the greenhouse is located near the house, it is possible to install water heating directly from a gas boiler into it.

If a “warm floor” system is installed, then before placing it, you need to prepare the bottom of the greenhouse, because energy can be wasted in the ground. The system should be installed under the beds, although if necessary it can be placed under the paths between them.

Preparation takes place in stages:

• a heat-insulating sheet is applied to the ground; it’s good if it contains foil;
• be sure to pour a layer of sand about 5 cm thick;
• a reinforcing mesh is placed on top, the cell size of which is 3x3 cm;
• then the heating cable is fixed;
• it is covered with a sand cushion of 5 cm;
• the reinforcing mesh is laid again;
• 30-40 cm of soil is placed on it.

Each layer is laid in formed beds, with bricks or boards protruding as sides. The beds are usually arranged along the walls, but if the greenhouse or greenhouse is wide, then an additional line is installed in the middle. It is good to create the beds at a slight angle, so the soil surface will be slightly turned towards the transparent roof slope on the south side. Quite often lately convectors have been installed in greenhouses for heating.

They really have many advantages that are ideal directly for greenhouses and greenhouses:

• They dry the air minimally, compared to other heaters, because they are designed in such a way that they create artificial circulation of warm air;
• easy to install, just hang the convector on a bracket mounted on the wall, plug it into a power outlet, and set the temperature level on the regulator;
• I’m pleased that there is an automatic mode for turning the heater on and off, taking into account the selected temperature, this saves energy;
• The device is small, with an aesthetically modern look.

Before purchasing a convector for heating a large space, it is better to look at the characteristics of the device, take into account the power, then it will become clear how many heaters are needed for your area. Another heating solution is a long-burning cast iron boiler with a water circuit.

To install such a system, you will have to do a lot of work:

• First, the boiler is installed, its installation is carried out directly in the greenhouse, or even in an adjacent room;
• you need to build a chimney that can be raised to a height of at least 5 m;
• for the pipe to pass through the hole equipped for it, it is better to isolate the combustible materials of the greenhouse from the high temperature during the heating of the boiler;
• it is important to calculate the correct slope of the circuit pipes, then install supply and return pipes for the coolant, most importantly, correctly distributing the radiators;
• the system needs to be filled with water, then a temperature sensor must be installed directly in the greenhouse.

The installation of the described system is probably really complicated in comparison with other analogues, in particular, if we draw a parallel with the converter heating system.

When heating the greenhouse, it is important to note that for normal development and growth of plants, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature at +25...+30 degrees, and the soil temperature should reach +20...+25 degrees. Moreover, it is important to maintain a normal level of humidity in the room.

What will a greenhouse or greenhouse look like on a foundation?

A greenhouse mounted on a strip foundation will easily function throughout the year if the necessary conditions are there.

Accordingly, the assembly of the building is carried out extremely carefully, because it must be generally airtight, not counting, of course, the installed ventilation system. For the frame, it is optimal to prefer wood, since it conducts cold minimally, in comparison with a metal profile, it is guaranteed to create “cold bridges.”

The frame for this version of the greenhouse is installed in stages:

• waterproofing material, mainly classic roofing felt, is laid on adobe or stone plastered walls that are 0.5-0.7 m above the ground;
• thick wooden beams are attached to it with anchors, their width depends on the walls, and their height ranges from 5 to 15 cm;
• It is better to seal the gaps between walls and beams, or even metal profiles, with polyurethane foam;
• further work depends on what material will be the main one in the greenhouse, it may be a ready-made metal-plastic frame, or the foundation of a metal or wooden frame;
• then double- or triple-glazed windows are installed in metal-plastic frames, wooden frames with glass or double-glazed windows are installed in a wooden frame, polycarbonate is usually attached to a metal analogue.

The foundation, then the floor and the lower level of the greenhouse wall must be insulated. For this reason, in this case, it is better to prefer a “warm floor”, its structure is described above, and in addition you need to install high-quality converter heating. It will maintain the temperature in the room.

If the greenhouse is located in a cold region where there is a lot of snow in winter, then when clearing the yard of snowdrifts, it is better to pile the snow right next to the walls; it will serve as insulation and will make it possible to save on heating costs in the winter. For walls, it is better to prefer thick glass, about 5-7 mm, or even cellular polycarbonate, 10-15 mm. The honeycomb material has an air gap between the main planes, all of which works like insulation.

Lighting organization

Any greenhouse that is used in winter must be additionally illuminated, thus, the room will appear in a spring state, due to the fact that the length of daylight hours, as well as the intensity of winter solar radiation, will be really small.

In order to save energy in the form of lighting fixtures, it is possible to use lamps with LEDs. They are sometimes of different shapes, but are located only at the highest point of the ceiling. Naturally, if desired, it is possible to install classic lamps; they are mounted at the junction of the roof and walls, or, alternatively, high up directly on the walls.

To adjust the lighting hourly, it is possible to install a control unit with a specific timer, set on it the time when the light in the greenhouse needs to be turned on and off. The described system will make it possible to save energy and create extremely comfortable conditions for plants.

If a greenhouse or hotbed is needed only for the spring-summer period, it is not difficult to justify it, because no special insulation conditions or lighting are required. The winter option, in turn, is extremely complex, especially in calculations and construction, and in everyday use in general. Typically, these complexes are arranged by those people who professionally grow flowers and vegetables, and some exotic plants. Thus, they simply cannot do without a comfortable room with a special microclimate. All these maintenance costs will pay off over time when the sale of plants or fruits begins.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse with your own hands, first of all you need to decide which material to give preference to - used or buy new. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages, used materials cost next to nothing, but you will need some time to find and collect, and such material can be more difficult to work with, selecting the right elements for each other.

New materials, on the contrary, are very convenient to use, but cost money. Constructing a greenhouse yourself will take some time, so it is better to plan in advance and allocate 2-3 days for this work. You also need to decide what you will make your home greenhouse from - homemade greenhouses are usually film, glazed, or built using polycarbonate.

DIY greenhouse construction

So, the main questions of what and how to make a greenhouse have been resolved, and the planning stage is over - now you can proceed directly to the construction of a homemade greenhouse.

The dimensions of the greenhouse discussed in this article are 3.6 meters wide and 5 meters long, with a center height of about 2.5 meters. The length of your greenhouse can be longer or shorter, but when constructing a structure according to this project, the width should be around 3.3-4 meters.

If your greenhouse roof is too flat, it may fall apart!

How to make an arched greenhouse strong and reliable so that your greenhouse does not collapse under the pressure of the first rain or snowfall. In an attempt to make the bottom of your greenhouse feel more spacious, you may want to try making it wider and lower - but be careful! If there is a lot of precipitation in your region, it is much more effective for snow and rain to roll off a steeper roof than a flat one. A greenhouse roof that is too flat will sag under the weight of water and snow, causing damage.

So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands?

We started the construction of the greenhouse with the end walls, although this is not a necessary condition at all; you can build the main structure first, and do the ends later. Do what is most convenient for you.

To begin, to outline the contours of the greenhouse, temporarily attach a piece of PVC pipe to a wooden plank.

Pre-drill a hole in the pipe and attach it to a wooden element using a self-tapping screw.

Assemble the rest of the frame, including the doorway. The width of the doorway depends on the size of the door, the width of which can vary from 1 to 1.5 meters. The wooden threshold can be sawed off later, when it comes time to install the greenhouse door.

To make the frame joints more durable, you can glue them using a special glue intended for outdoor use.

After the assembly of the wooden frame is completed, you need to mark the contours of the greenhouse on the slats.

Remove the PVC pipe and saw off the excess pieces of wooden strip along the contour.

Re-attach the plastic pipe to its rightful place, along the outside of the frame. For this purpose, you can use self-tapping screws and wire anchors.

Rear end wall of the greenhouse.

And the front end wall of the greenhouse... The polyethylene film, which is planned to be attached to the structure later, will completely wrap the frame and be fixed to the wooden parts of the end. If you don't have enough wood to frame the end walls, then you may have problems securing the film. A poorly secured film will sag and come off at the first strong gusts of wind.

A roll of film can be spread directly on the frame to measure out the desired piece.

Use a sharp knife to cut off a piece of film, placing something hard under it.

After securing the film on one side, you need to turn the end wall frame over and secure an additional layer on the other side.

Then carefully cut off the excess piece of film.

Cut a hole in the end wall for the doorway, leaving enough film so that you can double-fold it before attaching it to the frame. Pay attention to the cuts in the upper corners of the opening for the opening.

That's about it!

Drive long pieces of rebar or steel fence posts into the ground at a distance equal to the width of the doorway.

Place the posts vertically and plumb.

Tie the arched greenhouse frame to the fence posts using wire anchors, wire or rope.

After the end walls are installed, stretch the cord along the entire length to mark the installation line for the side ribs of the greenhouse.

Along the line, at a distance of one meter from each other, drive in pegs from the reinforcement to secure the intermediate ribs.

Attach PVC pipes to pegs, and the greenhouse takes shape. For a stronger and more stable structure, you can use a thicker pipe or place the fins of the greenhouse more often than one meter apart.

During the construction of this greenhouse, the ribs turned out to be shorter than planned, so it was decided to lengthen them a little.

We decided to extend the ribs with pieces of PVC conduit. By the way, gray PVC conduit is more resistant to solar heat. Therefore, the fins of the greenhouse can be made entirely from conduit.

In case you live in an area where there is a lot of rain or snow, you will need to install additional PVC pipe right in the center of the arched greenhouse.

A ridge of thick PVC pipe attached to the top point of the frame will prevent the film from sagging and collapsing.

Screw the side ribs to the ridge with self-tapping screws and secure with rope to be sure. In case of heavy snowfall, it is recommended to install supports inside the greenhouse during bad weather.

Secure each connection with wire anchors and fasten with self-tapping screws.

Using pieces of wood to twist the wire together and tighten it. Wire spacers make the structure more stable and durable.

To measure and cut the plastic wrap, you will need to measure out a little extra film on all sides so you can fold it in a little at the ends later.

Fix the film on a wooden plank using a stapler.

After the film is secured with staples on the wooden plank, you should make a full turn to completely wrap the plank in polyethylene.

Secure the film with self-tapping screws using a drill. Wrap the ends of the plastic film around a wooden plank and attach an additional plank on top of the film - this will help secure the film securely and make the structure heavier. Secure the opposite end of the film in the same way, roll it up and take it closer to the greenhouse. For this job, you will need another person to help you roll, unfold, and cover the greenhouse frame with film.

So, the main work is completed, there are still minor finishing touches that you can easily handle. Sprinkle the lower end of the film wall with earth or mulch to get rid of cracks and drafts; you can lay bricks, tiles or stones on top of the earthen embankment along the outer edge of the greenhouse.

Well, that's all, now you know how to make a greenhouse with your own hands!

Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat, sloping surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and a wooden beam are suitable. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a pitched or gable roof, since bending arches from wood is difficult and time-consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are installed in the Middle Zone. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better bear loads, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you are building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on a wooden frame, all boards/timbers must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for the street. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are available in hardware stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - welding a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross-section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gable or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snow in winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is needed. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or simply timber is suitable.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

• A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
  
• Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
• The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
• The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.

  

• Mortgages - studs or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
• The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
• If the bottom trim is a beam, waterproofing is rolled out over the concrete base. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat the concrete with bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
• A row of strapping is laid:
  
• Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

Empty bottles can be used as building material. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be a very economical and warm foundation. Its load-bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used with a large cross-section - 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can add a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. One must take his choice responsibly - the sum is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for the warm season, a corrugated (or monolithic) one is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the stated characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it doesn’t press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

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