How to properly move the toilet from the riser when combining a bath with a toilet? We rearrange the toilet, freeing up useful space. Is it possible to rearrange the toilet in a combined bathroom.

The bathroom of a standard apartment most often has a small area, so the owners of the premises have to “use” every centimeter of free space to the maximum. Quite often, the result of design research is the desire to move or unfold the toilet. This is a responsible and difficult event. To conduct it, you can invite specialists, but you can do it yourself. Let's figure out how to do all the work correctly.

"Pitfalls" of these works

Moving plumbing equipment some distance from the riser seems at first glance to be a very simple and hassle-free solution. But in reality this is not the case. The increase in the length of the sewer pipes suitable for the equipment threatens with trouble. When flushed, an excessive vacuum will arise in them, which will provoke a breakdown of the water seal in all nearby plumbing fixtures. This process will be accompanied by extremely unpleasant sewer odors and gurgling sounds.

Often, only moving plumbing equipment some distance from the sewer pipe can solve the problem of optimizing the space in the bathroom.

Another problem is the increased likelihood of blockages. When the equipment is moved, the length of the pipe that connects the device to the sewer riser increases. Accordingly, the path of impurities is lengthened. Theoretically, in any case, the drains will reach the sewer, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Both problems can be solved with strict adherence to the regulations of the current SNiP. The document prohibits removing the plumbing fixture from the pipe further than 1.5 m.

Another important indicator is. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, it should be at least 2 cm per meter. Parts with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid with a slope of at least 3 cm per meter. This requirement is imperative for accurate execution. Decreasing the slope reduces the flow rate, which can cause blockages. A too steep slope is also undesirable. In this case, the water will pass through the pipes too quickly, leaving solid impurities. They will gradually accumulate inside the pipes, preventing the free flow of fluid.

Very often, the owner of the bathroom realizes that in order to ensure a sufficient slope of the sewer pipe, the toilet will have to be raised, and the lifting height can turn out to be quite large. It all depends on the diameter of the pipe and the distance to which you want to remove the device. There can be two options for solving the problem: either raise the floor in the bathroom and mask the pipeline in it, or install a kind of podium under the toilet. Both options are quite viable, but in practice the second is most often used. As the least laborious and convenient enough solution.

To ensure the pipeline slope prescribed by SNiP, the equipment can be placed on a special podium

There is one more thing to consider when planning the transfer of equipment. The piping from the riser to the toilet should be a line without right angles. In cases where this is not possible, instead of a sharp 90 ° bend, you need to equip two 45 ° bends. This is to minimize the risk of blockages.

SNiP sets fairly strict requirements for the transfer of a plumbing fixture, and all of them must be fulfilled without fail, otherwise problems with the operation of the equipment cannot be avoided. At the same time, you need to understand that if the toilet needs to be moved more than 1.5 m, the SNiP recommendations will not "work". In this case, it is necessary either to transfer the sewer riser itself, which is practically impossible, or to equip a forced sewage system. The latter option can also be used with a smaller distance from the riser to the toilet, provided that there is no possibility or desire to tinker with laying the pipe with the desired slope and raising the floor level in the bathroom.

Toilet transfer technology

The equipment can be moved to a different distance, with a different angle of rotation of the device. Depending on this, a simple transfer option is distinguished and a more complex one.

Option # 1 - transfer by 10-20 centimeters

It is assumed that the equipment is transported a short distance, which does not exceed 10-20 cm. We start with dismantling the old device. If the device has been "planted" on cement or glue and its release is also coated with cement, you will have to tinker with its dismantling. One wrong move and the toilet will crack. If you intend to install a new device, you can not be careful with the old one, if this is not the case, turn off the water and very carefully perform the following operations:

We release from the putty from the space between the outlet of the device and the sewer socket. For manipulation, you can use a narrow chisel or a sturdy screwdriver.
Gently loosen the toilet. To do this, carefully hammer a wide chisel under the base in different places. We repeat the operation until the device starts to swing.
We raise the toilet. First, we pull the device towards ourselves and take out the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. Plumbers warn that if the device gets stuck and does not feed, you should not pull too much. It is necessary to swing the device very carefully and then pull it again.

Equipment installed on standard fasteners and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff is much easier to remove. To dismantle it, you will need to unscrew the screws that secure the device. Then we pull the device towards ourselves strictly in the direction of the axis of the sewer pipe and take out the outlet from it.

If the toilet bowl after dismantling should remain in working order, all operations are performed very carefully. The putty fixing the outlet of the device in the sewer bell is destroyed with extreme caution.

After all the work has been completed, you can begin preparing for the installation of the device at a new location. Examining the old flexible eyeliner. If its length is not enough or it leaks, we change it to a suitable model. If the part is in good condition, we leave everything as it is.

The toilet bowl, connected to the socket with a corrugation, is much easier to dismantle. You only need to remove the fasteners from the device and remove the flexible corrugation

To connect the outlet of the toilet bowl to the sewer socket, you will need a corrugation. Despite the fact that rubber seals are installed at both ends of it, silicone sealant should be used as a safety net. In addition, you need to prepare special fasteners. It is very important that the steel fasteners do not press against the sanitary ware, therefore the presence of plastic washers on the fasteners is mandatory. Then we install the device:

We outline the places for fastenings on the floor. We drill holes. If you have to work with tiles, first we go through the tiles with a special drill of a slightly larger diameter.
We clean the sewer socket and the toilet bowl outlet and wipe them dry.
We apply silicone sealant to the corrugation. We put it on for the production of equipment.
We install the device in place, insert the fasteners into the prepared holes and tighten them carefully. After the device stops wobbling, we immediately stop tightening the fasteners.
The gaps remaining between the floor and the base are covered with a solution. Thus, we create additional support that will not allow lateral force to destroy the base.
We coat the second part of the corrugation with sealant and insert it into the socket.

It must be remembered that the toilet is quite fragile sanitary ware, so you need to act very carefully.

Corrugation is a flexible connecting element that greatly facilitates the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Its main drawback is fragility.

Option # 2 - long distance transport

If you have to transfer the device to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, you will need to rework the sewage system. The procedure for dismantling and subsequent installation of the device is no different from the above described option. The difference lies in the build-up of the sewage system. For this procedure, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is most often used. The number, length and configuration of the connecting elements depend on the new location of the toilet. The plastic pipeline is laid along the floor or fixed to the wall with special clamps.

There are several nuances that you should pay special attention to. To lower the sewer to floor level, you will have to remove the drain to the toilet from the cross or tee. For plastic elements, this is not difficult. If the parts are made of cast iron, it is best to first warm up the socket with a gas torch or blowtorch. This is done so that the sealant burns out and the cement putty cracks. The gray-filled connections are also blow torch baked. This produces a very strong unpleasant odor. It is imperative to use a gas mask and ventilate the room well.

After that, removing the pipe from the socket is not difficult. It is best to start the installation of a new pipeline from the riser. At the same time, do not forget about the required slope, which is about 1-2 cm for each running meter. To install a plastic pipe in a cast-iron socket, it is optimal to use a special sealing collar. It is best to install it after having coated the joint with silicone sealant.

Installing the toilet with special fasteners must be done very carefully. It is important to remember that the steel screws must not touch the sanitary ware. When installing them, be sure to use gaskets.

The toilet can be connected, this is considered the simplest, but at the same time, short-lived option. Applies only if unimpeded access to the connector can be ensured. A special adapter pipe can be used, which is somewhat more difficult to install than a corrugation, but it gives a more reliable and durable connection. There may also be a connection using a linen winding. This is an outdated but completely reliable option.

Is it worth doing this work yourself?

Moving a plumbing fixture from a riser is a rather complicated undertaking. It is very important to correctly calculate all the transfer parameters, to determine the correct slope of the pipes, the location of the device and, if necessary, to accurately select the forced sewage system. The slightest mistakes in calculations or installation can lead to very unpleasant and difficult to solve problems in the form of chronic blockages and unpleasant odor in the bathroom.

Anyone who has no real experience in installing plumbing equipment can be advised to seek help from specialists. Professionals will assess the existing conditions, help you choose the necessary equipment and correctly install it. The toilet will be placed exactly where the owner wants, and will function flawlessly.

Creating a comfortable environment is impossible without redevelopment of the premises, which also affects the toilet in the apartment.

Possible problems when moving the toilet

The increase in the free space of the toilet room prompts the thought and reinstallation of the bathroom. Is it realistic to move the toilet to the side?

Yes, but in order for the plumbing to function correctly, you need to know some subtleties.

Experts voice the following nuances of such a transfer:

The likelihood of blockage increases with distance from the riser, because sewage travels a long way.
Water flushing is accompanied by an unpleasant odor (sewer stench) and gurgling sounds. In a long pipeline, a high vacuum is formed, which leads to the suction of water from the devices (nearby plumbing) and the disruption of their hydraulic seals.

With the right approach to solving the issue, such problems can be avoided. Moving the toilet bowl from the riser - a process that is regulated current standards (SNiP).

Sewer pipeline requirements:

Use of pipes, the diameter of which is in the range of 50 ... 100 mm. The optimal section is considered to be 100mm, supplied to the toilet (minimal risk of rarefaction or "plugs" from sewage).
The maximum distance from the toilet bowl to the riser is 1.5m. If the pipe is longer, the capacity of the cistern is not enough to push the fecal matter through. They settle on the walls of the pipeline and a blockage is formed.
Observance of the correct slope. For each meter of the pipeline, it is 2cm (section 100mm) or 3cm (for 50mm section).

If the angle of inclination of the drain is too low, 100% clogging of the sewage system is guaranteed, since the fluid flow rate decreases. If the slope is too high, the flow develops an excessive speed, which causes solid particles to accumulate in the pipe. As a result, the movement of water is blocked.

The easiest way to get the required slope is to provide a podium for installing the toilet, raising it above the surface (sometimes by a significant amount). Plumbing communications can also be hidden here.

Lack of right angles when laying a new sewage system. If this condition is not fulfilled, installation at an angle of 45 ° is allowed (two such angles instead of one right).

If you put a toilet bowl in an apartment, taking into account these simple rules, then the likelihood of a blockage will be minimized (drains are discharged by gravity).

In practice, in order to move the toilet, you will need to perform a certain sequence of actions:

Mark the distance that you can move the bathroom. You will need to fix one end of a one and a half meter twine on a riser and draw an arc with chalk (tied to the other end of the rope).
Select the most suitable location for the toilet and install it. It is advisable not to leave the maximum distance marked on the floor.
Measure the difference in height between the center of the drain pipe and the floor. Compare the received data with the height of the inset point. If it turns out to be higher, you will have to build a podium, with the help of which the drain pipe rises 30 mm above the tee of the riser (tie-in point).
Fix the plumbing fixture on the podium (floor) and connect it to the drain system, ensuring the piping is as straight as possible (avoid right angles).

It is not at all necessary to carry out a rigid supply of cold water to the toilet, it is much easier to use a long flexible hose.

Toilet in the apartment: how to carry out the transfer of the toilet from the riser

Creating a comfortable environment is impossible without redevelopment of the premises, which also affects the toilet in the apartment. Increase the free space of the toilet

Ways to transfer the toilet from the riser to another place

Due to the small area of the bathroom, often, when carrying out a major overhaul of the toilet, it becomes necessary to move the sanitary equipment. In order to effectively use free space, as a rule, many people prefer to redevelop the premises.

The result of these works is the transfer of the toilet bowl from the riser. Since this process is associated with issues of water supply, drainage of the device, its solution must be taken as responsibly as possible.

Reasons for moving the toilet

Before proceeding with the processes of dismantling the old toilet and installing a new one, we will consider the main reasons for its transfer.

Changing the layout of the bathroom. In this case, all operations are coordinated, at least, with the Housing Inspection, the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision, the State Fire Inspection, the Architectural and Planning Department. Only after obtaining permission, the toilet room is redeveloped. When moving a wall, the old arrangement of the device can cause discomfort, which is why it becomes necessary to transfer it.
Replacing an old device with a new one, which is much larger. If, due to the dimensions of the updated design, it cannot be installed in its previous place, the product should be moved.
Purchase of new furniture for the washroom.

Remember, regardless of motivation, the old toilet should be removed intact, rework the sewage system, and only then proceed to install the device at another point in the restroom. For this purpose, a long flexible eyeliner is often used.

Moving the toilet (easy way)

This method involves the movement of sanitary equipment at a distance that does not exceed 30 cm.

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure in a new place, it is necessary to dismantle the old device.

The sequence of work depends on the method of installing plumbing.

If the device is fixed with standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff, it is necessary:

unscrew the screws that fix the toilet to the floor;
pull out the outlet of the device from the socket of the sewer line

Consider the sequence of work in the case of placing the toilet on an adhesive or cement base.

Before dismantling the device, close the water supply valve to the tank, and also drain the liquid from the tank.

Remove the putty between the outlet of the structure and the sewer socket.

Remember, work must be done as carefully as possible in order to exclude the possibility of a split in the outlet, otherwise the device is not subject to further use.

Loose the toilet. For this purpose, a wide chisel is driven in from different sides of the base of the structure.
Pull out the outlet, strictly along the axis, from the sewer socket.

After successful dismantling of the structure, they begin the process of installing the product. Since the distance from the new location of the toilet to the water supply and sewerage system is small, there is no need to build up pipelines.

Let's take a closer look at the process of installing the toilet in a new place.

Clean the outlet of the device and the sewer bell.
Mark the new holes in the floor covering for the toilet seat and then drill them out.
Put on the corrugation on the outlet of the device, while it is important to first apply the sealant to the surface.
Cover the gaps between the base and the flooring with cement mortar, this will create additional support for the structure.
Insert the corrugation into the socket.

After performing the above operations, you should check the operability of the device..

Moving the toilet (hard way)

If you need to move the device to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, it is necessary to rework the sewage system.

The assembly and disassembly of the device will be similar to the simple method. At the same time, in order to build up the drainage pipeline, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used.

Remember, the length of the structure and the choice of corners depend on the location of the toilet.

Nuances to consider when assembling a plastic sewer

Ensure that there is a slope towards the riser: 2 cm per linear meter.
When removing from the tee, the cross of the cast-iron branch to the device, you should first warm up the socket with a blowtorch. The result of this procedure is the burnout of the cable seal and the cracking of the cement putty. After that, it is necessary to remove the pipe from the socket.

The installation of the sewage system should be carried out directly from the riser.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast iron socket, use a gasket seal.
The gray-filled cast iron pipe joints are annealed with a blowtorch.

Remember, in order to minimize labor costs, instead of precisely fitting the plastic pipes of the drainage system to the toilet outlet, you can use a corrugation.

For the effective functioning of the sewer system, it is important to take into account the following rules in the process of connecting plumbing equipment.

The greater the distance from the toilet bowl to the sewer pipe, the higher it should be placed. This will create the necessary slope of the pipe for the smooth drainage of waste water.

If the structure is far away from the riser, it is necessary to provide for the construction of a podium.

It is forbidden to fasten the toilet bowl, pipelines to the inter-apartment walls, as well as displace the sewer risers.
Connect plumbing fixtures to the main line at an angle of 45 or 135 degrees.

Remember, you cannot connect the toilet to the sewer system at a right angle, as this will inevitably lead to the formation of a blockage in the pipe.

For the possibility of carrying out preventive work, in the places where the pipeline turns, it is important to provide for the presence of special hatches.

Thus, if it is necessary to transfer the toilet bowl from the riser to a new place, it is important to initially consult with the architect, familiarize yourself with the rules for installing the structure, measure the distance from the sewer system to the device, and only then choose the necessary method and start the process of performing the work.

Ways to transfer the toilet from the riser to another place

Methods of transferring the toilet bowl from the riser to another place Due to the small area of the bathroom, it is often necessary to move during the overhaul of the toilet room

How to properly move the toilet from the riser when combining a bath with a toilet?

Good day! Conceived a bathroom renovation. We want to combine it with a toilet. For the convenience of redevelopment, you need to move the toilet. I doubt it is possible ... Is it real? And how to make sure that you do not run into problems in the further operation of the equipment?

Hello! You can move the toilet a little distance from the riser. However, this, seemingly simple, event has many nuances, on which the further use of the equipment depends. Plumbers warn that the greater the distance of the sewer riser has to be overcome by sewage, the higher the risk of blockage. Some "masters" argue that this is not so, because theoretically pollution will "get" to the target anyway. This is true, but there are much more opportunities to "gain a foothold" in place on a long journey.

Another problem is the appearance of an unpleasant sewer odor in the room. It is associated with excessive vacuum, which is inevitable in too long sewer pipes. In this case, each flush will be accompanied by the suction of water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and the breakdown of their hydraulic seals. In addition to smells from the sewer, unpleasant gurgling sounds will also appear. To do without the above problems, you should follow the recommendations of the current SNIP.

In some cases, when moving the toilet from the riser, it is required to raise the equipment to a small podium in order to provide the necessary slope for the sewer pipes

The document prescribes to move the toilet bowl no more than 1.5 m from the sewer riser. In addition to the "correct" removal, you must also observe the desired slope under which the pipeline should be laid. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. For elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope cannot be less than 3 cm per meter. These recommendations should be strictly followed, otherwise problems with blockages cannot be avoided. Decreasing the recommended parameters will lead to a decrease in the speed of fluid movement, which will lead to blockages. Increasing the slope, on the other hand, will cause the water to move too fast. It will not have time to capture solid dirt, which will begin to accumulate in the pipe and, over time, will completely block it.

It turns out that most often the toilet has to be lifted when it is moved to another place, in order to thereby provide the necessary slope for the pipes. In this case, depending on the transfer distance, a fairly decent amount of lift can be obtained. In addition, the pipe connecting the riser and the toilet will also have to be masked somehow. Given that its diameter is large enough, it may be necessary to raise the floor or equip a small podium, especially for plumbing equipment.

Another important detail: when laying a new pipeline, right angles must be avoided. If you cannot do without them, proceed as follows: mount two corners of 45 ° instead of one at 90 °. Otherwise, the likelihood of blockages in the pipe increases dramatically. All of the above requirements are mandatory when moving the toilet. However, even they do not work if it is required to move the equipment to a greater distance than indicated in the SNIP, or if its recommendations turn out to be difficult to implement. There is a solution in this case too.

The first is the transfer of the riser itself, which is extremely troublesome. The second is the use of special equipment that is intended for forced sewage. It makes the system work in conditions where ordinary gravity sewage cannot cope with its functions. For the arrangement of such a structure, a sololift or fecal pump is usually used. This is a compact device that can be placed behind the toilet cistern or even inside it. The device, which is a powerful pump equipped with grinding blades, pumps out sewage, grinds solid waste, and pushes the resulting mass into the sewer.

One of the main advantages of the equipment is the ability to use small-diameter sewer pipes: from 18 to 40 mm, which are very easy to hide even behind a plasterboard wall. The pump power is high enough. With its help, you can easily remove sewage at a distance of about 5-7 m vertically and about 100 m horizontally. No additional construction work is required to install the device. When choosing a sololift for forced sewage drainage, you need to take into account that if you plan to connect a washing machine or a shower cabin to it, you need to choose models with relatively high temperature limits for drains. Otherwise, the device will fail very quickly.

Versions are available with short-term protection, which allows the pump to pump hot waste water. However, it is only designed for half an hour operation. Constant work with heated liquid is also contraindicated for such devices. In the technical part, the recommendations for moving the toilet bowl from the riser are not much different from the standard instructions for connecting the device. The only difference is the installation of a longer, sloped pipeline. Installation of the grinder pump is carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the instructions.

How to properly move the toilet from the riser - advice from an expert

When redeveloping a bathroom, it is often required to move the toilet a certain distance from the riser. Let's consider the problems that may arise and the ways to solve them.

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

everything is possible, you just need to take it seriously and find out everything. Of course, you can put the toilet in the middle of the room and enjoy life, only if you make the wrong sewage and drain, then soon the whole room will be in.

Very important! For each meter of the outlet, there should be a rise of about 3-4 cm, otherwise the contents of the toilet will simply not go away, etc. Thus, if you are going to move the toilet 2 meters, then at the base of the toilet the height of the connection should be 7 cm, if by 3 meters, then about 10 cm. Can you afford such a rise? After all, to do this, you need to either put the toilet on a pedestal, or raise the floor.

Not everything is so simple, from a technical point of view, you can move the toilet anywhere, even to the living room, bring water without problems, but the slope of the pipes cannot be sustained over a length of more than 5 meters, the toilet will simply be “under the ceiling”, there is a way out forced sewerage.

Technically, everything is solved, the problem is different.

Bathrooms should not be installed above kitchens and living quarters of neighbors below.

This is the first point that sharply limits the concept of “elsewhere”.

From other places, there remains the bathroom itself, inside which you can move the toilet anywhere and the corridor.

The toilet in the hallway is fun, but not very convenient.

There are exceptions, if you live on the ground floor and there are no residential or utility rooms under you (workshops in the basement, gyms, etc.), then you can move wherever you want.

Or if you are the owner of a duplex apartment.

In this case, your toilet bowl, above your own kitchen, may well be installed.

You can move the toilet and nothing, and no one will bother you to do this, only, in addition to putting it in a convenient desired place, you need to connect it to the water supply (this is not such a big problem) and the sewage system is already more complicated here!

The water supply problem can be easily solved, it is not difficult to re-solder the plastic or put a longer supply hose, but you cannot accelerate much with the sewage system, there should be a central riser nearby, since laying a 100 mm pipe or corrugation is too far not aesthetically pleasing, and it is fraught with blockages.

Therefore, a riser is needed, in apartments they are often found in bathrooms and in closets and even happens in corridors and kitchens, respectively, all adjoining rooms will be in the access zone to them.

You need to decide, connect and equip a suitable room - that's all, if you are afraid of problems with the housing, do not be afraid, but do not tell everyone at every corner, otherwise you will have to register the redevelopment!

Is it possible to move the toilet in the apartment to another place?

Reasons for moving the toilet

Before proceeding with the processes of dismantling the old toilet and installing a new one, we will consider the main reasons for its transfer.

Changing the layout of the bathroom. In this case, all operations are coordinated, at least, with the Housing Inspection, the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision, the State Fire Inspection, the Architectural and Planning Department. Only after obtaining permission, the toilet room is redeveloped. When moving a wall, the old arrangement of the device can cause discomfort, which is why it becomes necessary to transfer it.
Replacing an old device with a new one, which is much larger. If, due to the dimensions of the updated design, it cannot be installed in its previous place, the product should be moved.
Purchase of new furniture for the washroom.

Moving the toilet (easy way)

This method involves the movement of sanitary equipment at a distance that does not exceed 30 cm.

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure in a new place, it is necessary to dismantle the old device.

The sequence of work depends on the method of installing plumbing.

If the device is fixed with standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff, it is necessary:

unscrew the screws that fix the toilet to the floor;
pull out the outlet of the device from the socket of the sewer line

Consider the sequence of work in the case of placing the toilet on an adhesive or cement base.

Before dismantling the device, close the water supply valve to the tank, and also drain the liquid from the tank.

Remove the putty between the outlet of the structure and the sewer socket.

Remember, work must be done as carefully as possible in order to exclude the possibility of a split in the outlet, otherwise the device is not subject to further use.

Loose the toilet. For this purpose, a wide chisel is driven in from different sides of the base of the structure.
Pull out the outlet, strictly along the axis, from the sewer socket.

Let's take a closer look at the process of installing the toilet in a new place.

Clean the outlet of the device and the sewer bell.
Mark the new holes in the floor covering for the toilet seat and then drill them out.
Put on the corrugation on the outlet of the device, while it is important to first apply the sealant to the surface.
Cover the gaps between the base and the flooring with cement mortar, this will create additional support for the structure.
Insert the corrugation into the socket.

After performing the above operations, you should check the operability of the device..

Moving the toilet (hard way)

If you need to move the device to a distance that exceeds the length of the corrugation, it is necessary to rework the sewage system.

The assembly and disassembly of the device will be similar to the simple method. At the same time, in order to build up the drainage pipeline, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used.

Remember, the length of the structure and the choice of corners depend on the location of the toilet.

Nuances to consider when assembling a plastic sewer

Ensure that there is a slope towards the riser: 2 cm per linear meter.
When removing from the tee, the cross of the cast-iron branch to the device, you should first warm up the socket with a blowtorch. The result of this procedure is the burnout of the cable seal and the cracking of the cement putty. After that, it is necessary to remove the pipe from the socket.

The installation of the sewage system should be carried out directly from the riser.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast iron socket, use a gasket seal.
The gray-filled cast iron pipe joints are annealed with a blowtorch.

Remember, in order to minimize labor costs, instead of precisely fitting the plastic pipes of the drainage system to the toilet outlet, you can use a corrugation.

For the effective functioning of the sewer system, it is important to take into account the following rules in the process of connecting plumbing equipment.

The greater the distance from the toilet bowl to the sewer pipe, the higher it should be placed. This will create the necessary slope of the pipe for the smooth drainage of waste water.

If the structure is far away from the riser, it is necessary to provide for the construction of a podium.

It is forbidden to fasten the toilet bowl, pipelines to the inter-apartment walls, as well as displace the sewer risers.
Connect plumbing fixtures to the main line at an angle of 45 or 135 degrees.

Remember, you cannot connect the toilet to the sewer system at a right angle, as this will inevitably lead to the formation of a blockage in the pipe.

For the possibility of carrying out preventive work, in the places where the pipeline turns, it is important to provide for the presence of special hatches.

The bathroom of a standard apartment most often has a small area, so the owners of the premises have to “use” every centimeter of free space to the maximum.

Quite often, the result of design research is the desire to move or unfold the toilet. This is a responsible and difficult event. To conduct it, you can invite specialists, but you can do it yourself.

Let's figure out how to do all the work correctly.

"Pitfalls" of these works

When flushed, an excessive vacuum will arise in them, which will provoke a breakdown of the water seal in all nearby plumbing fixtures. This process will be accompanied by extremely unpleasant sewer odors and gurgling sounds.

Often, only moving plumbing equipment some distance from the sewer pipe can solve the problem of optimizing the space in the bathroom.

Theoretically, in any case, the drains will reach the sewer, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Both problems can be solved with strict adherence to the regulations of the current SNiP.

The document prohibits removing the plumbing fixture from the pipe further than 1.5 m.

Another important indicator is the slope of the pipeline. For parts with a diameter of 100 mm, it should be at least 2 cm per meter. Parts with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid with a slope of at least 3 cm per meter. This requirement is imperative for accurate execution.

Decreasing the slope reduces the flow rate, which can cause blockages. A too steep slope is also undesirable. In this case, the water will pass through the pipes too quickly, leaving solid impurities.

They will gradually accumulate inside the pipes, preventing the free flow of fluid.

There can be two options for solving the problem: either raise the floor in the bathroom and mask the pipeline in it, or install a kind of podium under the toilet. Both options are quite viable, but in practice the second is most often used.

As the least laborious and convenient enough solution.

To ensure the pipeline slope prescribed by SNiP, the equipment can be placed on a special podium

In this case, it is necessary either to transfer the sewer riser itself, which is practically impossible, or to equip a forced sewage system.

The latter option can also be used with a smaller distance from the riser to the toilet, provided that there is no possibility or desire to tinker with laying the pipe with the desired slope and raising the floor level in the bathroom.

Toilet transfer technology

The equipment can be moved to a different distance, with a different angle of rotation of the device. Depending on this, a simple transfer option is distinguished and a more complex one.

Option # 1 - transfer by 10-20 centimeters

It is assumed that the equipment is transported a short distance, which does not exceed 10-20 cm. We start with dismantling the old device.

If the device has been "planted" on cement or glue and its release is also coated with cement, you will have to tinker with its dismantling. One wrong move and the toilet will crack.

If you intend to install a new device, you can not be careful with the old one, if this is not the case, turn off the water and very carefully perform the following operations:

We release from the putty from the space between the outlet of the device and the sewer socket. For manipulation, you can use a narrow chisel or a sturdy screwdriver.
Gently loosen the toilet. To do this, carefully hammer a wide chisel under the base in different places. We repeat the operation until the device starts to swing.
We raise the toilet. First, we pull the device towards ourselves and take out the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. Plumbers warn that if the device gets stuck and does not feed, you should not pull too much. It is necessary to swing the device very carefully and then pull it again.

The toilet bowl, connected to the socket with a corrugation, is much easier to dismantle. You only need to remove the fasteners from the device and remove the flexible corrugation

We outline the places for fastenings on the floor. We drill holes. If you have to work with tiles, first we go through the tiles with a special drill of a slightly larger diameter.
We clean the sewer socket and the toilet bowl outlet and wipe them dry.
We apply silicone sealant to the corrugation. We put it on for the production of equipment.
We install the device in place, insert the fasteners into the prepared holes and tighten them carefully. After the device stops wobbling, we immediately stop tightening the fasteners.
The gaps remaining between the floor and the base are covered with a solution. Thus, we create additional support that will not allow lateral force to destroy the base.
We coat the second part of the corrugation with sealant and insert it into the socket.

It must be remembered that the toilet is quite fragile sanitary ware, so you need to act very carefully.

Corrugation is a flexible connecting element that greatly facilitates the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Its main drawback is fragility.

Option # 2 - long distance transport

For this procedure, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is most often used. The number, length and configuration of the connecting elements depend on the new location of the toilet.

The plastic pipeline is laid along the floor or fixed to the wall with special clamps.

If the parts are made of cast iron, it is best to first warm up the socket with a gas torch or blowtorch. This is done so that the sealant burns out and the cement putty cracks. The gray-filled connections are also blow torch baked. This produces a very strong unpleasant odor.

It is imperative to use a gas mask and ventilate the room well.

Installing the toilet with special fasteners must be done very carefully. It is important to remember that the steel screws must not touch the sanitary ware. When installing them, be sure to use gaskets.

The toilet can be connected using a corrugation, this is considered the simplest, but at the same time, short-lived option. Applies only if unimpeded access to the connector can be ensured.

A special adapter pipe can be used, which is somewhat more difficult to install than a corrugation, but it gives a more reliable and durable connection. There may also be a connection using a linen winding.

This is an outdated but completely reliable option.

Is it worth doing this work yourself?

Moving a plumbing fixture from a riser is a rather complicated undertaking.

The slightest mistakes in calculations or installation can lead to very unpleasant and difficult to solve problems in the form of chronic blockages and unpleasant odor in the bathroom.

Source: https://aqua-rmnt.com/santehnika/unitaz-rakovina/perenos-unitaza.html

How to move a toilet: do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, can it be moved, price, photo

Is it possible to move the toilet from a familiar place to a more convenient one? How to do it? What materials will be needed for the operation and what nuances should be taken into account?

Let's try to figure it out.

In the process of overhaul, we have complete freedom of action. The toilet can be placed anywhere in the apartment. There would be a desire.

Why is this needed?

There can be quite a few reasons for the transfer:

Changing the layout of the toilet... If the wall has been moved, the old location of the toilet may turn out to be inconvenient - too close to the wall or, conversely, not optimal in terms of space use.
Replacing the toilet with another one with different dimensions... If the old toilet was perfectly located across the combined bathroom, and the new one can only be located along - obviously, you will have to redo the sewage system for it.
Purchase of new furniture for the bathroom, washing machine, bath and so on.

Regardless of the motivation, the conclusions are the same in all cases: the old toilet should be removed, if possible, intact and, having redone the sewage system (and, sometimes, the water supply system), re-assembled at a different point in the room.

Advice: in general, you rarely need to pull a hard line of cold water to the point of the new dislocation of the toilet bowl.
If the toilet is carried within the same room, it is often easier to buy a long flexible hose.

But it is undesirable to do this. After the completion of the repair, communications should be available.

Simple case

The toilet is deployed or moved a small distance, about a dozen or two centimeters.

Dismantling

Dismantling the toilet is highly dependent on the installation method.

If the toilet was mounted on standard fasteners, and its outlet is connected to the sewer with a standard rubber cuff, everything is simple:

Unscrew the screws holding the toilet bowl to the floor;
Pull the toilet bowl towards you strictly along the axis of the socket of the sewer pipe, pull the toilet bowl outlet out of it.

In this case, it is not even necessary to shut off the water to the tank.

If the toilet is set on glue or cement, and its outlet is covered with the same cement in a cast-iron pipe, you will have to tinker:

Armed with a sturdy screwdriver or a narrow chisel, carefully remove the putty from the space between the drain and the toilet outlet. Be very careful: an unsuccessful movement - and you will have to go for a new toilet.

We have to carefully remove this putty without splitting the issue.

When the release is released, we will need to loosen the toilet on the floor. A wide chisel is carefully, with little effort, driven in turn from different sides under the base of the toilet. Sooner or later, he will swing, announcing that the deed is done.
Then, again, we push the toilet bowl over ourselves, pulling its outlet out of the sewer pipe strictly along its axis. If it gets stuck, do not pull harder, but slightly shake the toilet from side to side. Of course, before that, it is better to shut off the water to the tank and drain the water.

Installing in a new location

Since the distance to the sewerage and water supply system will be small, we do not need to rework the sewerage system or build up a water supply pipe.

If the old flexible eyeliner is in good condition, we will not touch it. If it leaks or has insufficient length, we simply change it to an analogue. The operation is simple and, I think, does not require a separate description.

We will connect the toilet with the sewerage with a corrugation. This corrugated pipe generally has rubber seals on both sides; but it's a good idea to stock up on silicone sewer pipe sealant.

You will also need a toilet seat kit.

Important: the fasteners must be equipped with plastic washers.
The steel screws must not press directly onto the faience.

This is what the entire set will look like.

Clean debris from the toilet outlet and drain and wipe dry.
Mark new holes in the floor for the toilet mountings and drill them. If there is a tile on top, first go through it with a drill on a tile of a slightly larger diameter.
Place the corrugation on the toilet outlet after applying the sealant.
Pull the toilet to the floor. He needs to stop wobbling, no more. Cover the cracks between the base and the tile with cement mortar - this will prevent lateral force from splitting the base of the toilet, creating additional support for it.
Insert the corrugation into the socket - again on the sealant.
Use it.

As you can see, the result is quite satisfactory. Only the seat is askew

Difficult case

We have already agreed that it is easier to connect water within a small room with a long flexible hose. Moving the toilet bowl to a distance exceeding the length of the corrugation will be accompanied by alteration of the sewage system.

Dismantling and installation will be the same; in order to build up the sewerage, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used. The length and selection of corners depend only on the new position of the toilet.

The assembly of the plastic drain is extremely simple. It is attached to the wall with clamps or laid directly on the floor.

As always, there are a few subtleties.

You may need to remove the toilet drain from the tee or crosspiece to lower the drain to floor level. With plastic, this will not cause problems; in the case of cast iron, it is better to preheat the next socket with a blowtorch or gas torch. At the same time, the cable seal will burn out and the cement putty will crack. Further extraction of the pipe from the socket is not difficult. It is better to install the sewer directly from the riser. The tee was wrapped in a bag to get rid of odors.

To insert a plastic pipe into a cast-iron socket - use a collar - a seal. It is better to sit it on a silicone sealant, first of all, having well lubricated its joint with a cast-iron pipe.
A slope towards the riser is required, but small: 1-2 cm per linear meter of the pipe.
If the joints of cast-iron pipes are filled with sulfur, they are also annealed with a blowtorch, but the smell will be monstrous. Ventilation of the room and a gas mask are required.
Instead of precisely fitting the plastic drain to the toilet outlet, you can also use a corrugation. There is only one condition: it must be available for replacement. If this is not possible, it is better to do without it.

This option will not create problems with modern materials either.

Conclusion

It seems that the article answered the question of whether the toilet can be moved. Can; moreover, there are no particular difficulties in this.

Good luck in the repair!

Source: https://kanalizaciyadoma.ru/unitazy/kak-perenesti-unitaz-343

Toilet flush against the wall

Any professional plumber knows: connecting the toilet to the sewer using a corrugation is done only in exceptional cases when it is impossible to do otherwise. The standard connection is made with a fan pipe.

This connection allows you to bring the toilet as close to the wall as possible. It is often impossible to install the toilet close to the wall using corrugations.

In addition to a tight installation, the drain pipe is easy to replace, fits both oblique toilet bowls and straight ones.

Types of toilet pipes

The phrase "waste pipe" has a wide meaning, today we will consider exclusively the waste pipe for the toilet. This is an extension of a 110 mm sewer pipe with a collar for connecting the toilet outlet. In fact, a standard corrugation is one of the varieties of a fan pipe.

There are many variations of funnel pipes, but I would like to highlight the usual, straight - in nine out of ten cases it is suitable for use. As standard, the straight waste pipe measures ∅110 mm × 250 mm (long) - it suits most toilet connections.

How to install the toilet close to the wall

The pipe can be shortened to the required length, the main thing is that it should be inserted into the main drain of at least 50 mm.

When the height of the sewer outlet does not coincide with the height of the toilet bowl outlet or for some reason does not fit with the oblique outlet, an eccentric-type fan pipe will come to the rescue. The eccentric allows you to connect the toilet when the axes of the sewer pipe and outlet do not match. Similar situations arise when replacing the toilet with another model or ill-considered routing of sewer pipes in the bathroom.

This means the location of the tank as close to the wall as possible. By the way, there is no need to make the tank touch the back wall. More practical for cleaning and maintenance is a small gap of 5-10 cm between the tank and the wall.

To implement this solution when laying the sewage system, the drain pipe should be placed as close to the wall as possible, if possible. This applies to both vertical risers and horizontal elbows ∅110 mm.

If the pipes are planned to be sewn up with a plasterboard box and tiled with tiles, the thickness of the gypsum board and the tile with glue should be taken into account. During the installation of the sewage system, it is necessary to use the future toilet for fitting on site. During fitting, the fan pipe can be cut to the calculated length, but it is better to make a few centimeters of the margin so as not to make a mistake. It is better to shorten the pipe several times than to cut too much and buy a new one.

When trying on the toilet and putting the sewer in the right position, you should not forget about the general slope of the sewer pipes towards the drainage of water by 2-4%.

I especially highlighted the stock of the length of the funnel pipe also due to the fact that when the communications are installed, as a rule, there are no tiles on the floor yet. Therefore, the floor tiles and the thickness of the adhesive must also be considered.

If the communications are planned to be sewn up with a box, the height of the box with tiles should also be taken into account so that the toilet does not cling to it with a part above the outlet where the tank is attached. When the pipes are exposed, the toilet is removed, all boxes are assembled according to the idea.

That's actually all that I wanted to tell you about connecting a toilet with a fan pipe. And finally, a few photos with a corner installation.

In the following publications, we will definitely consider the installation of the installation.

Return to the section "Apartment renovation"

Repair in the bathroom: how to transfer the toilet to another

In standard apartments, the bathroom is small. Homeowners resort to various tricks to ensure that every inch of space is used to its fullest. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research, it becomes necessary to move the toilet from the riser.

The event is not easy. The easiest way is to contact a plumbing specialist who probably knows how to move the toilet to another place. But for this you will have to adjust to their work schedule, change your plans. And perhaps even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the case, you can get by on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.

Moving the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it.

But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes the lengthening of the sewer pipes that fit it.

Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and the breakdown of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, transferring the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the conveying pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of the sewage.

Theoretically, with the correct installation of pipes and regardless of their length, the drains will in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of the likelihood of blockages.

According to the SNiP regulations, the plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when moving the toilet to another place is the observance of the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of wastewater transport decreases and blockages may appear.

Sometimes, in order to comply with the pipe slope rule, it is required to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-hung toilet bowl. Both options have a place to be, but the second also requires mounting the box on the wall for installation and hiding water and waste pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing the equipment on a pedestal.

And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transporting sewer channel from the toilet bowl to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have any turns at right angles. In case of impossibility of such a laying of the pipeline, in places of sharp bends in 900, two angled pipes for 450 are installed.

How to move the toilet: difficult and simple ways

Optimizing bathroom space requires moving equipment. Within the framework of the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to different distances (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the range of transfer, there is a distinction between a simple and a complex method.

The easy way

It involves moving the toilet bowl to the side a small distance - 15 - 20 cm. For this, you must carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is planted on glue or mortar, and the discharge neck is smeared with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks in the toilet. Therefore, shutting off the water, carefully and carefully:

we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the putty layer using a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
with a little effort we try to loosen the toilet. For which the help of a wide chisel may be required - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We shake it until the equipment starts swinging freely;
Raising the toilet, grasping the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct the efforts on ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, it is not necessary to exert great effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instructions, and swing the device again.

If your device is installed on the standard fasteners and connected to the pipe by means of a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fasteners to the floor and remove the outlet by pushing the device towards you and turning it along the pipe axis.

After dismantling the device, you can start preparing for its installation in a new location. We inspect the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, replace it with a new corrugation.

The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of rubber sealing rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the likelihood of leaks, you should still use a silicone sealant.

You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we start installing the device:

mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with victorious spraying, if the tile is used, we take a special drill with a larger diameter than the fasteners;
we clean the outlet of the toilet bowl and the bell from dirt, old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation on the O-ring, and pull it over the flare of the toilet bowl;
install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
to create additional support, the gaps formed between the floor and the base are coated with cement;
at the end of the installation, grease the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 or more centimeters

If, according to the design project, it is required to transfer the toilet bowl to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to rework the sewage system. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option.

The differences lie in the need to build up the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture.

The laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

To lay the sewage system at floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or crosspiece. With plastic pipes, everything is simple (everything can be easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, then you will have to resort to using a gas burner or blowtorch to destroy the seal and cement putty by heating. Then you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.

It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the rules of the slope. The installation of plastic pipes in a cast-iron socket involves the use of a special sealing collar. For a better seal, grease the joint with silicone glue.

The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is with a corrugation, providing free access to it for integrity control. Instead of a corrugation, you can install a special transition pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.

How to install the toilet closer to the wall

When carrying out repairs in small or combined bathrooms, when literally every centimeter of free space counts, the problem often arises of bringing the toilet bowl as close to the wall as possible.

A tee or outlet is very rarely located or oriented well in relation to the outlet of the toilet, which in turn can be straight or oblique.

For such tasks, the corrugation cannot be used for connection and the entire connection is made at the bends (corners), which are in a wide variety of tilt angles.

In addition to the selection of angles to maximize the approximation of the toilet to the wall, they will also need to be adjusted and trimmed. Reducing the height is done by cutting the socket of the tee and the elbow in half.

For the next approach step, the elbow of the bend is also cut off.

Accordingly, after this, the release of the toilet will be a little long and should also be cut off.

After all such barbaric circumcisions, it is necessary to carefully and tightly connect the cut tee and the branch.

In such cases, a black CB insulating tape is ideal as a sealing seal, the rubberized adhesive base of which, in combination with silicone sealant, will create a reliable connection. Such a connection is no worse than on standard socket rubber bands.

Wrapped in several turns of electrical tape (the quantity is selected experimentally) will perfectly seal such a connection, while the silicone will help to make the connection in tension and hermetically fill all possible voids.

This technology of bringing the toilet bowl closer to the wall can be used on toilets and with direct outlets, when it is also necessary to adjust the height of the outlet and move the toilet bowl a couple of cm to the wall.

How to properly install the toilet

If the sewer riser is far from the wall, then you can move the pipe leading to the toilet with the help of bends by 30 ° or 15 °. And for maximum shear, you may have to gouge the wall for the pipe a little.

All this makes sense only in small bathrooms, when you literally have to gain every centimeter of free space and shift the installation site of the toilet by 5-10 cm. body movements.

With all such undercuts of the bends, the base of the toilet bowl also approaches the drain pipe, and on some types of toilets, a situation is possible when this base, due to its elongated rear part, will go under the pipe, making it difficult to make a full-value box. In this case, at the stage of making the box, it will be necessary to simply leave an open niche, into which this oversized part of the base of the toilet bowl will enter.

Most of the redevelopment is carried out in order to increase the comfort of the premises and for its greater convenience. Typical apartments, for example, may have inconveniently equipped kitchens and bathrooms. Their small area limits the functionality of the premises and does not allow the installation of additional equipment there.

In the bathrooms (bathroom and toilet), the transfer of plumbing is often carried out in order to install some other equipment on the free area. Often, redevelopment is carried out with the transfer of the toilet. But many owners, when agreeing, ask the question: "Is the transfer of the toilet considered a redevelopment?"

According to housing legislation, the transfer, installation and replacement of engineering equipment falls under the concept of reorganization. The redevelopment can be part of the redevelopment and must be approved.

However, we note the following: replacing the toilet bowl with a similar new one at the place of the previous toilet bowl and without affecting the flooring device does not require approval, but the transfer of the toilet bowl with the dismantling of the floor covering requires approval; also a redevelopment is the installation of a toilet, so this equipment was not initially noted in the technical plans of the BTI.

Touching the floors during such work may require waterproofing - hidden work, for which an act must be drawn up without fail.

Redevelopment with the transfer of the toilet requires the development of a project.

The transfer of the toilet must be carried out in accordance with certain rules :

transfer from the riser is possible at a distance of no more than 1.5 m;

it is not recommended to install pipes at right angles to avoid blockages;

it is necessary to take into account the slope of the pipe and, if necessary, install a podium for the toilet or simply raise it above the floor level, etc.

Coordination of the transfer of only one toilet bowl according to the project will be necessary only if, when conducting pipes to the riser, it is necessary to dismantle the floor. The dismantled floor in the bathroom area will need waterproofing.

Redevelopment project with toilet seat relocation:

To summarize, we get the following:

installing a new toilet in place of the old one without affecting the floor covering is not a redevelopment and approval is not required;
moving the toilet from one place to another is a reorganization that needs approval;
installing a toilet where it was not initially indicated on the BTI plans is a redevelopment that requires approval;
if, during the transfer, replacement or installation of the toilet, a complete or partial dismantling of the floor and further waterproofing will be carried out, then it will be necessary to draw up acts of hidden waterproofing work - this procedure already implies redevelopment or reconstruction;
when moving, installing or replacing the toilet bowl and other engineering equipment, all applicable standards, norms and rules must be observed.

If you are going to carry out repairs with one or another type of work on the transfer or arrangement of the toilet, we recommend that you contact us for the development of project documentation or approval of redevelopment, if all this is necessary. Also, our highly qualified specialists will advise you on all your questions. You will find your e-mail and phone number in the "Contacts" section.