How to properly make a ventilation system in a sauna with an electric heater: technical nuances. How to make a hood in a bathhouse - design and installation of ventilation. What ventilation pipes are needed in a steam room?

Ventilation in a bathhouse is a mandatory design element. Without proper air exchange and an influx of fresh air, even the highest quality wooden building can become completely unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, steamers will have to enjoy such “delights” as dampness, unpleasant odor, and lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of a ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. It is not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike its forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths it is generally created “on its own” - only through a suitable design of the steam room.

How does the natural ventilation system work?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection, which occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, heated air in a room always rises, and cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in a bathhouse is to provide an influx of fresh air (cold) and displace exhaust air (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the supply opening is usually located below the exhaust opening. Then the warm air rises and comes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (low pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used as hoods in a bathhouse with natural ventilation. The flow of air is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in log baths), slightly open doors, and ventilation holes. Both supply and exhaust openings (vents, vents) are equipped with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option 1. Burst ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths, burst ventilation is common. This is ordinary ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures or between visits to the steam room. Burst ventilation promotes rapid air change and drying of steam room surfaces.

During burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is played by a door and a window located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after steaming (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure difference is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of burst ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove-heater with a chimney can become a driving force for ventilation. When fuel burns, exhaust air is drawn into the furnace ash pan and exits through the chimney. In order to allow fresh air to flow in, make a gap of about 5-10 mm at the bottom of the door. Or they don’t close it tightly during procedures. In log-house bathhouses, when the fire burns in the stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation by means of air outflow through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (for example, in black saunas or in a short-term oven), air change will not be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange performed through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the steaming period (ideally 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust vent is usually located under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It measures 15-20 cm and can be square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

It is not advisable to place the ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. There is a high probability that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This excludes full air circulation, but leads to the formation of a draft.
The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should coincide with the dimensions of the inlet opening. Or be more. If the size of the hood deviates downward, new clean air will not enter the bathhouse.
If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the size of the hood makes the supply vent larger. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 supply hole.

To ensure the flow of clean air into the steam room, an inlet opening is installed, usually 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is advisable to be near the stove so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the steaming zone already warm. The supply opening is covered with a ventilation grille so that air is drawn into the room in separate streams and not in a continuous stream.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The classic operating procedure is as follows:

Two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm are made in the walls of the bathhouse. It is advisable to form the vents at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into the finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In log baths, it is better to use wooden boxes made from boards.
A ventilation grille is placed on the supply opening, and a damper is placed on the exhaust opening. If one of the holes faces the street, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of air duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

simple device and easy installation;
low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
economical operation - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
reliability – the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not requiring repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

dependence of the ventilation strength on the temperature difference in the steam room and outside;
in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings reduces the temperature in the steam room, and drafts may occur;
smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bathhouse located on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no swimming pools or large washrooms inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If for some reason natural ventilation does not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can transform it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just install fans on the openings!

The positive effects of regular bath procedures on the body are invaluable. At the same time, a bathhouse is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits are easily outweighed by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bathhouse.

Importance of the system

Even in ancient times, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in a bathhouse could quickly cause the appearance of dampness, mold, and fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why, even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they helped improve air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Nowadays, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, since after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constantly high humidity, and if the bathhouse is built using frame technology, then its service life will be even shorter. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable when the stove is lit. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in a bathhouse must necessarily comply with basic requirements and safety principles:

Correct redistribution of air masses. As you know from a school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush upward, while cold ones, on the contrary, descend. Therefore, the flow should be directed so that the feet do not freeze and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
Maintaining a given heating level in the steam room. Ventilation under no circumstances should interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, cooling the air is unacceptable.
Use of water-resistant materials. To arrange steam rooms and organize ventilation in them, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to humidity and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating an effective air exchange system is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot humid air from all areas of the bath, but at the same time it is necessary to prevent the temperature in the hot steam room from dropping, so modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to blow in from the street. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas stoves, since such schemes require a large volume of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of ventilation and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, the attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roofing and the materials used to make it. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally installed, which allows for ventilation between the layer of thermal insulation material and the other layers of the roofing cake. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensation in the bathhouse.

But for the best drying of floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is installed. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, lay a subfloor and pour concrete at an angle, then lay the boards in such a way that there are small gaps between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all rooms of the bathhouse need ventilation: steam room, sink, relaxation room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, you should select in advance a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bathhouse and its operating conditions.

Experienced builders do not advise constructing complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods, which may be suitable for each individual case. Here the statement is 100% true that the simpler the better, and in terms of cost this option will be much cheaper.

The operating principle of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the entry of fresh street air, and the second allows the overheated and humid air to escape outside. How these windows are located in relation to each other largely determines which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the firebox will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths, instead of a single outlet, two are cut out, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

The dimensions of the windows are also of fundamental importance, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the lumen. To do this, special valves are attached to them, allowing you to cover any open cracks.

It is very important to make correct window calculations taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, the steam room simply will not be able to warm up to the required temperature and more electricity will have to be spent. And if the windows turn out to be too small, then the intensity of the flow will be reduced and the air may become completely oversaturated with water vapor.

The size and location of ventilation windows primarily affects the entry and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from an overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room to 50 years and even more. The ventilation system option is selected individually in each case and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All ventilation options developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and combined.

Natural ventilation assumes that air change is carried out due to the unhindered entry of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of paired rooms and the removal of waste through special openings.

Forced The system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed for exhaust and much less often - for supply. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

Combined option as the name suggests, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, the most widespread is “bastu”. It involves the formation of a small hole with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind the stove or under it.

As additional elements, vents are installed above the stove, which are controlled using a valve and valve - it is through them that air from the outside enters through vents from the underground. Typically, the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, but as soon as there is a need to reduce the humidity level in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is not suitable in every case, so in some situations, installing an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the lower part of the duct. If you install it in the supply opening behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist, superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. On the outside of the building, such openings are connected to each other by a special ventilation duct. Less commonly, an exhaust hood is installed in bathhouses, in which there is only one channel for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are installed at the same height from the floor level: one is located behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unsuccessful method involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, bumps into the feet of those steaming. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such arrangement also occurs quite often when it is not technically possible to make holes on different sides of the room.

Materials

The choice of ventilation system for a bathhouse is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bathhouse is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bathhouse has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be treated especially carefully to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must include a fan, which will help effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bathhouse can be connected to elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are installed directly in the walls, and later they are brought to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of buildings using the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of thermal insulation layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with flaps.

In bathhouses built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to the individual characteristics of the material, galvanized air ducts are installed. To do this, they buy ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, having previously given them the necessary configuration and reliably sealed the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a Russian classic log bathhouse. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all rooms of the bathhouse, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem of creating optimal proportions between the air coming from outside and the air going out into the street often arises. To prevent the occurrence of drafts and not “heat the street”, experts recommend additionally well insulating the bathhouse and installing small holes inside the thermal insulation material with special valves that serve to allow flows in and out.

In wooden buildings, a burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately understand how many steamers will take bath procedures. If a bathhouse is being built for a small family, then you can simply design a small supply vent near the stove and an exhaust vent under the ceiling, but if the structure is aimed at a large company, then preference should be given to forced options.

How to make it yourself?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. You can carry it out in a bathhouse either on your own or with the assistance of specialists. To do this, you will need a work project, materials and tools, as well as a little effort and time.

What will you need?

To install ventilation ducts in a bathhouse, preparation is required. The following components will be needed for this work:

several ventilation valves;
valve;
metal grate;
mosquito net;
ventilation box;
corrugated air duct;
hygrometer;
fan;

thermometer;
metallized tape;
clamp;
polyurethane foam;
sealant;
fasteners;
decorative overlays for lining inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely presented in any store in a wide variety of colors and textures, so purchasing the best option will not be any problem. Ventilation valves are installed on exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Valves are used to quickly open or close holes. They are made from a variety of materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and durability they are in no way inferior to store-bought options.

A grid with a mesh, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier against insects and rodents, whose presence is extremely undesirable either at home or in the bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached to the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some people make the box themselves using corrugated pipes. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for paired rooms, since most types of plastic begin to deform when exposed to high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used both for the supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it works only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially produced for Finnish saunas and baths. A thermometer and a hygrometer are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its operating indicators, open the supply valve or start the hood.

Layout for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances of installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bathhouse; it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. The adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after the decorative finishing work of the complex has been completed.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, but if the goal is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust opening with a diameter lower than that of the supply opening is strictly prohibited, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

The system must certainly have dampers and valves, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow the openings to be closed with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable dampers are also important because air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the time of year. In winter, when negative temperatures prevail outside the window, cold air masses penetrate into the bathhouse more intensely, which is why in the autumn-winter period the windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross-section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conventionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are carried out with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too ventilated or vice versa.

Even at the bathhouse design stage, you should remember that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required heating areas. The hood openings should be located slightly below the ceiling level. This is due to the fact that warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed outside, and if the holes are located low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the overall microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since with constant contact with water, wooden surfaces lose their performance characteristics after 3-5 years, therefore There are important requirements for a ventilated floor:

to create the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter between the boards;
the finishing floor must be laid above the level of the blower, which helps the stove begin to work as an additional hood;
After taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to arrange ventilation here, since in such a room there is no direct contact with water. As a rule, a combined or natural method of ventilation is formed here, when cool air enters through the supply channel and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the influence of a fan.

In addition, the installation of ventilators is allowed here, which may require connecting to an electric current network and going outside. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air exchange here occurs using an electric motor.

We organize an exhaust hood in an already built bathhouse

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation that was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bathhouse was heated - black or white - it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct steaming, so open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid out at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip a hood in an already constructed building.

To do this, you should punch holes directly in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is made in the area of the furnace vent, and the second one is made near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bathhouse is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then creating openings and installing an exhaust hood will be much more problematic, since in the process of such work the integrity of the walls can be damaged in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bathhouse as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not do your own ventilation in bathhouses that are already in use. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles of creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bathhouse and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be met regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for the influx, the second for the removal of air masses. If you plan the exhaust in advance in a bathhouse under construction, you can avoid serious problems during the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam zone.

It is absolutely unacceptable for installed ventilation to create the following problems:

Bathing procedures are not only one of the good ways to maintain hygiene, but also an opportunity to remove accumulated harmful substances and toxins from the body. However, in order for the visit to be comfortable and beneficial, a good one is necessary to eliminate the possibility of the formation of fungi and mold due to high humidity. Ventilation in the bathhouse, equipped by specialists or with your own hands, will ensure the flow of fresh air into the room and remove exhaust gases and fumes generated as a result of the operation of the heater and the use of hot water.

Read in the article

Is ventilation really necessary in a bathhouse or can it be done without it?

The functions of bath ventilation are complicated by the fact that it must facilitate the fairly rapid removal of moist air from the premises and efficiently regulate the temperature in the steam room. It is especially important to have a good exhaust system for baths equipped with gas and solid fuel - to maintain the combustion process in such structures, an impressive volume of air is required. Lack of ventilation will lead to excessive concentrations of carbon dioxide, which has a negative impact on people's health and can lead to loss of consciousness.

Inexperienced craftsmen try to carefully insulate the premises, sealing the slightest cracks to increase the speed of warming up the steam room and retain heat for a longer time. However, this is the wrong approach, since ventilation holes must be present. Properly designed it allows:

create a healthy microclimate in the bathhouse;
reduce humidity concentration and quickly dry rooms;
get rid of carbon dioxide;
quickly warm up the steam room and other bath rooms;
eliminate stagnant and unpleasant odors;
get rid of pathogenic fungi and mold;
preserve the interior decoration of the premises in its original form.

From the above, it becomes clear how important the installation of an exhaust system in a bathhouse is. Before making ventilation in a bathhouse, you must first learn about its types and basic installation schemes.

Effective ventilation in the bathhouse - diagram and device

Before you further understand the exhaust system and begin its arrangement, you should know that ventilation can be natural or forced. There are also differences in ventilation systems and their designs depending on their location. Well, now let's talk about everything in order.

Natural ventilation

This option is optimal for most baths, since it is the cheapest and quite effective. The placement of ventilation holes must be determined based on the size of the room, the location of the heater and shelves, as well as the material from which the bathhouse is built. Whatever the ventilation schemes in bathhouses, there is one general rule - the supply opening should be located at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor level, and the exhaust opening at the same distance, but from the ceiling.

The dimensions of the vents should be approximately 300-400 mm 2. If the air exchange is too rapid, which will cause the temperature in the steam room to drop, the ventilation openings must be covered with special control flaps. To improve the appearance, it is advisable to install decorative grilles on the vents, which you can easily buy in specialized stores or make yourself.

However, this type of ventilation is not suitable for a steam room. All ventilation openings (inlets and outlets) must be at the same level from the floor. Thus, the incoming air flows are heated from the furnace and rise upward, while the cooled ones fall down and fall into the exhaust vents. To preserve heat in the room, the holes can be closed with special dampers.

Forced ventilation

Air movement is carried out mechanically by installing special devices on the ventilation openings (). This will allow you to quickly refresh the air, which is very important, especially in the washing room. This ventilation option is well suited in cases where a forced exhaust system in the bathhouse has a number of advantages over the natural one:

it is possible to filter incoming air masses;
maintaining a given microclimate;
uniform distribution of heated air.

To allow large volumes of fresh air to enter the steam room, it is necessary that the ventilation openings be located diametrically to each other. When installing, you should not place the inlet and exhaust vents at the same level to avoid short circuiting of air flows, which will cause a concentration of cooled air below, and on the contrary, it will be very hot at the top.

Important! Since high humidity and high temperature are the main enemies of any electrical equipment, the fan housing must have reliable moisture protection, and the connection must be made in full accordance with the PUE.

The advantage of forced ventilation is accelerated air exchange and advanced adjustment parameters. This exhaust system is equally effective regardless of the strength and direction of the wind, as well as weather conditions.

Installation of floor ventilation in bathhouses

Floors in bathhouses are exposed to extreme conditions. The impact of moisture on the floor occurs both from below from the ground and from above. The most difficult conditions are created in the steam room, where hot steam comes into contact with the wooden floor covering, cooling and condensing. The resulting condensate penetrates and creates a favorable environment for the development of fungus and mold.

An effective floor ventilation scheme helps prevent the destructive effects of mold and remove excess steam. Floor ventilation can be done naturally or forced. However, to be effective, the following conditions must be adhered to when installing a ventilation system:

prevent the floor from cooling during procedures;
ensure fast and effective drying, but it is important not to overdo it to prevent cracking of the wood;
The arrangement of the ventilation system must be carried out at the construction stage.

When locating ventilation vents, you need to take into account the climate, wind conditions, landscape, sources of pollution, as well as internal factors - the type and placement of the heater, the design of doorways, the presence of vents. Most often, ventilation vents are located at 3 different levels:

under the floor covering or in;
under the heating structure or at the level of its foundation;
in the wall at a distance of 350-450 mm. from the floor level (best done behind the heater).

Installing ventilation under the floors in baths has a number of advantages. In addition to eliminating condensation and improving the quality of drying the floor covering, the air flow from below does not create drafts and, therefore, ventilation can also be used during bathing procedures. For greater efficiency, it is important to properly create a drainage system to remove wastewater outside the building.

Creating air exchange in the foundation of the bathhouse

Creating an exhaust system in a bathhouse is extremely necessary, since it not only prevents the formation of mold, but also protects the building from rot. The characteristics of the ventilation system are calculated at the design stage. The type and location of bathhouse ventilation largely depends on the prevailing winds, topography and the presence of bodies of water, which often cause flooding of buildings.

You can ensure normal air circulation by installing several holes, the number and dimensions of which are calculated in accordance with the size of the bath. The diameter of the vents must be at least 110 mm. Ventilation openings are usually made opposite each other. If the building is located in a low area, tightly surrounded by other buildings, or there are natural barriers to the free movement of air flows, then vents must be installed on all sides of the foundation, since this is the only way to achieve high-quality ventilation.

Ventilation system in bathhouses in steam rooms

Traditionally, a heater stove is installed in the steam room, which forms the basis. The air from the steam room passes through the blower, which ensures good circulation. To obtain maximum outflow of air masses, the stove should be installed below the level of the finished floor, and to start the process of ventilating the room, it is enough to slightly open the window or entrance door. The disadvantage of this ventilation scheme in steam rooms is that when there is no combustion process, air circulation stops.

In addition to the heater, ventilation in the steam room is provided by additional openings with special dampers to regulate air exchange. After each bath procedure, you should open it for a while, otherwise the air in the room will be heavy and humid, and there is a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

When the stove is firing and the room is heating, the ventilation in the steam room should be closed. After the steam room has completely warmed up, the exhaust dampers can be opened. To prevent the formation of reverse draft, it is necessary at this stage to ensure that the exhaust openings are larger in area than the supply openings.

If the stove is not installed in the steam room itself, then a different ventilation scheme is used in steam Russian baths. Near at a height of 300 mm. An inlet opening is made from the floor level, and an exhaust opening is installed on the wall opposite it at a distance of 300 mm. from the ceiling. Sometimes an inlet opening is made at the bottom of the wall behind the stove so that the air coming from the street is heated by the heater and the room cools down moderately. On the wall opposite the heating device, make 2 holes that will form a single exhaust duct. The first opening is located at a height of 1,000 mm. from the floor level, and the other under the ceiling. With this ventilation scheme, the steam room warms up faster and, accordingly, fuel is saved.

Air exchange device in the washing room

In the washing room, as well as in the steam room, there is high humidity, which contributes to the appearance of mold and fungi. To avoid this, it is necessary to create an effective ventilation system in washing baths. In the washing room, a large amount of moisture accumulates under the floor, so to remove it, it will be enough to lay an asbestos pipe, one end of which is located under the floor covering, and the other is discharged to the roof and is equipped with a deflector.

Creating effective controlled ventilation in bathhouse sinks will ensure dryness, moderate temperature, fresh air flow, carbon monoxide removal and fuel economy.

Ventilation diagram in dressing rooms

The proximity of the dressing room to the steam room leads to condensation settling on the wooden surfaces of the cladding. To preserve the cladding and prevent rotting processes, the room must be well insulated and drafts excluded. The simplest ventilation scheme for a dressing room consists of removing moist air through a washing or washing room. It is best to organize a forced-type ventilation system for this room.

How to properly ventilate a bathhouse

Having more or less understood the ventilation system in the bathhouse, you also need to take into account other important points. The exhaust device must not:

cause a violation of the temperature regime in the premises;
allow cold air to rise to the ceiling;
remove fresh air from the room.

The principles by which proper ventilation of rooms is created in a bathhouse depend on the architectural features of the building’s design. If the floors have special slots for water drainage, then fresh air can flow through them and there is no need to make additional exhaust openings.

Often small windows are made, which, when opened, act as a hood. In addition, if the heater’s firebox is located directly in the steam room, then ventilation is even easier - just open the combustion chamber and adjust the air exchange by changing the position of the damper. These are the simplest, but most effective and low-cost options for installing a ventilation system.

Features of air exchange in frame baths

If in or air circulation is carried out through rows of lower crowns, then in frame-type buildings sheathed with a large amount of thermal insulation material, there is no natural ventilation and for this reason it is necessary to provide for the creation of special openings with dampers.

The most effective system for a bathhouse is supply and exhaust ventilation. To organize high-quality air exchange, it is necessary to create two channels. One of them is located near the floor and serves to bring fresh air into the room (if necessary, you can install a fan), and the second is located at a short distance from the ceiling and is necessary to remove hot and humid air masses and carbon monoxide. Ventilation openings in frame baths must be equipped with special adjustment dampers.

When creating a ventilation system, it is necessary to take into account the area and shape of the steam room, as well as the location of the heater.

Ventilation of a chopped bath

In a Russian bathhouse, where steam was traditionally prepared manually, forced air circulation schemes are not suitable. In order for natural ventilation in wooden baths to promote health, the following schemes should be followed when creating it:

provide the possibility of ventilation (creation of windows, doors and ventilation openings);
the upper boundaries of doors and windows should be at the same level;
for small steam rooms, simple ventilation is sufficient;
a heater with a chimney is a natural exhaust of exhaust air and gases;
For normal air exchange, you can install a ventilation opening with a damper next to the heater and an exhaust hole under the ceiling.

Providing good ventilation in a log bathhouse is a very important point, since it is necessary to prevent the accumulation of excess moisture, which negatively affects the wooden structure and can cause the development of pathogenic fungi and mold.

Ventilation system in a brick building

You should think about arranging ventilation in brick baths at the construction stage. Since natural air circulation is not provided for in a brick building, the number and location of openings should be taken into account in advance.

The natural air exchange system is identical to that installed in a Russian bathhouse - the inlet is located next to the stove, and the exhaust is under the ceiling. However, if the bathhouse is designed for a large number of people, then you should think about creating a forced ventilation system.

The fan must be installed at the entrance of the exhaust duct leading to. To speed up air circulation, several exhaust pipes are installed, but it may be necessary to install supply valves so that the air masses are not discharged due to the difference in the volumes of supply and exhaust air. A fan that is too powerful can lead to the same problem, and a device with a power that does not match the area of the room will not be able to perform its functions normally and the air exchange in the steam room will be quite weak.

Ventilation Bastu

Recently, new and more effective solutions have been found to create ventilation systems. Such novelties include the ventilation scheme in the Bastu bathhouse. This system is very popular among Russians due to its ease of installation and high efficiency.

The principle of ventilation according to Bast is as follows. The hot heater acts as a heat pump and draws air from the supply duct. Cold streams, passing through, heat up very quickly and rise to the ceiling. Naturally, they push an equal volume of near-field air through the exhaust duct. In the Bastu ventilation system, the supply and exhaust openings are located at the bottom.

To install such ventilation, two stainless steel pipes are required - the lower one is installed diagonally from the heater at a height of 200 mm. from the floor, and the top above the stove. Both exits must be equipped with grilles with dampers. However, like all natural ventilation systems, Bastu can only work when the stove is running or there is strong wind outside.

The main advantage of Bastu ventilation installed in Russian baths is the ease of installation, which you can do yourself, thereby saving your money.

Proper ventilation device in the bathhouse

Normal ventilation can only exist if the room has created conditions for the influx of fresh air and the removal of exhaust air. Despite the common concept of ventilation, this is not entirely true, since it is always supply and exhaust. The operating principles of ventilation for any room are almost the same - fresh air enters through the supply opening and is exhausted through the exhaust.

When calculating ventilation systems, it is necessary to take into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence or likelihood of the formation of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Regulatory acts establish the frequency of air exchange per hour, which can fluctuate 1-10 times or more. Next, the parameters and location of future air ducts are determined, taking into account the climatic zones and weather conditions characteristic of the area. If natural ventilation is not able to provide the required air exchange rate, then forced-type systems are used.

Where to place the window in the bathhouse?

Windows in a bathhouse are not only a source of light, but also a way to ventilate it. There is a misconception that a window in a steam room adversely affects the preservation of steam in the room and temperature. However, experienced bath attendants advise making even two windows in the steam room. One window is located above the shelves, and if the steam turns out to be too hot or someone feels unwell, then just open the window slightly and everything will be fine. The second window is placed under the shelves, which allows you to dry the sunbeds quite quickly. It is made small in size and opaque.

Important! According to safety regulations, bath windows must open into the room.

It is also worth installing a window in the washing room. It will not only help to ventilate the room, but also to urgently evacuate in case of fire. The dimensions of the window should be such that an average-sized adult can crawl through it. Some bathhouse owners are interested in the question: is it possible to install? If there is a washing room in the room, then yes. However, in a steam room, where the temperature reaches one hundred and above, the material from which the windows are made will begin to release toxic substances and warp. For windows into the steam room, it is best to use non-resinous wood. You can easily install a window in a bathhouse with your own hands, since the technology is no different from installing it in a residential building.

A grille made of wood or heat-resistant plastic and a metal mesh will prevent insects and pets from entering the room. A corrugated hose or galvanized pipe is usually used as an air duct. Experts do not recommend installing plastic pipes in a steam room, since they are not designed for operation in high temperature conditions.
It is advisable to install the fan on only one, for example, on the supply one. Fans used for baths must be made of heat-resistant materials and have good sealing.
A video on how to make a fan with your own hands will show the process more clearly (a bladeless version is presented):
Vent valves
The ventilation valve for the bathhouse is installed in the supply and exhaust ducts. There are two types of this device - KIV (air infiltration valve) and KPV (forced ventilation valve). Outwardly, they practically do not differ from each other, and their operating principle is the same. The outer part of the damper is equipped with inclined blinds to prevent water from entering from the outside, and the inner part is equipped with a head and membranes for sound and heat insulation.

When installing valves, you should follow several recommendations:
for bath ventilation it is necessary to install dampers made of heat-resistant materials;
installation must be performed on the load-bearing walls of the bathhouse;
It is not advisable to install valves on walls facing a garbage can.

Article

To determine the value of ventilation in the bath you should know its purpose:

Rapid heating of the room, uniform distribution of heat. Savings in heating costs.
Constant air renewal while vaping. This is necessary for the comfort and health of vacationers.
Quick removal of moist air. Carrying out mandatory drying of the room.
Preservation of the building for a longer time. No fungus or mold appears. Objects do not deform or change color when exposed to moisture.

No or insufficient ventilation Unpleasant odors gradually accumulate in the room and the air becomes damp. There is no fresh air coming in, it becomes more difficult to breathe. There is a risk of poisoning from accumulated carbon monoxide. Without ventilation, gradually all the warm air will go up, and the cooling air will accumulate below.

Proper ventilation system in baths

In saunas made of natural logs any cutting of holes to provide ventilation is considered unnecessary. The lower crowns of the walls are laid with holes installed, through which a moderate amount of fresh air passes. If you have a stove-heater in which the vent is also designed to vent air outside, you can limit yourself to its presence. Air is let in through an open door; a gap of 5-7 mm is sufficient.

Ventilation is designed for regular intake of fresh air into the bathhouse and outflow of cooled and humid air. For fresh air flow need to build vents. If they are not there, then you can use windows and doors. Exhaust also occurs through special holes; a stove ash can be used; the chimney is of great importance in the outflow of steam. To ensure complete control of air exchange, the openings are equipped with shutters, which can be adjusted to stop or resume the flow and exit of air.

There is a large list of ventilation systems:

For inlet and outlet openings located opposite each other, one level is used. In some cases, placing the inlet low can help retain heat longer. To activate air exchange, a fan is installed; an air duct or deflector can also be used. Holes cannot be positioned exactly at the same level. As a result of the rapid release of air, accumulations of cold air may form at the bottom and warm air in the rest of the bath.
Air flows directed by an operating ventilation device reduce the pressure inside the duct. The exhaust air is drawn out due to a decrease in pressure inside the bath. To raise the pressure again, fresh air is introduced.
The vents can be positioned in this way: the supply air vent is 30 cm from the floor, the outlet located opposite does not reach the ceiling 30 cm. Fresh air is immediately heated from the stove, rises, gradually leaving the room.

To ensure constant control over the speed and volume of incoming and outgoing air, dampers are created. It is advisable to make them retractable, opening them to the required distance. The length of the air duct is determined by the size of the bath, as well as the maximum volume of required incoming air.

When the room is just being heated with a hot stove, all openings should be covered. When the temperature becomes optimal for vaping, the valves are opened slightly and immediately adjusted so that the exchange of air does not change the temperature in the room. Both inlet and outlet openings should have a connector close to the same. To increase the flow of fresh air, you can slightly enlarge the outlet.

The supply connector should not be larger than the output connector. This leads to reverse draft, which promotes the exit of fresh air from the bathhouse, rather than its active circulation.

Ventilation in a Russian bath

In a classic bathhouse, created according to the Russian model, no special holes are made, so air exchange should be done in a more natural way. Typically, conventional ventilation is used to provide a flow of fresh air. You can open the door leading to the street and the window opposite it. Sometimes forced exhaust is used with the door open. To better get rid of accumulating dampness, you should promptly sweep away the leaves from the broom. Benches and other wooden objects that become very wet can be dried; sometimes, flaps of sheets are used. These procedures will not allow heavy steam to form and will remove unpleasant odors and decay products from the room.

After the bathhouse has been ventilated and dried, need to start steaming. To do this, pour water in small portions onto the stones. The prepared steam quickly rises up and remains there for a long time, so it may turn out that it is already very hot at the top, but still cool at the bottom. If there is a strong temperature difference, you can wait until the steam drops or use artificial methods to lower it.

It is enough to work with brooms to create movement in the steam room, the air will immediately mix. Swings of a towel or broom should be carried out closer to the ceiling.

You can make a fan: on a wooden handle there is a stainless steel loop on which the fabric is pulled. Horizontal or vertical movements are made by this device to move warm and cold air. Sometimes people start using it when making steam. To do this, one person pours water on the stones, and the second works with a fan.

In the steam room

In classic bath ventilation schemes it is assumed air flow in the steam room from below. The hole is usually located below half a meter from the floor. The hood can be placed close to the ceiling by making a hole on the opposite wall. Regulation of the level of humidity and heat of the air is carried out by extending or closing the valves.

The best option, especially for a small steam room, is to create an inlet opening next to the stove. This is necessary to instantly warm up the incoming fresh air. This arrangement will prevent the formation of strong drafts and helps to avoid large temperature differences in different parts of the steam room. Heat from the steam room can not only be removed outside, but also transferred to other rooms for high-quality heating.

Proper ventilation works by bringing fresh air under the box. Air masses leave the device through the upper opening. The steam room warms up quite evenly until the warm air reaches the bottom of the box. Hot air will gradually displace colder air, providing warming before leaving the room. The steam room heats up and dries out at the same time.

In the waiting room of the bath

The ventilation channel is directly connected to the duct, the diameter of which usually exceeds the chimney by no more than 20%. With these parameters, oxygen fills the room rather than leaving it. There is no need for air flow from the underground.

The walls of the stove, if there is one in the dressing room, needs to be placed close to the floor. The shelves are not necessarily placed in a strictly horizontal position. They are able to slow down the rise of heat to the ceiling. To better absorb warm air, it is better to equip the stove with several chimneys.

Sometimes, when heating a bathhouse, a large amount of smoke is formed and retained in the room. This means that the air inside the dressing room is colder than the outside air. Cold air is somewhat more massive than warm air, so it often creates a shell in chimneys. In order to push out this air, you need to equip an additional door for burning ash.

Forced ventilation

Ventilation in the bathhouse is carried out using electronic systems, if it is impossible to ensure good air circulation by natural means. Fans can be installed on both the supply and exhaust vents. They accelerate the movement of air masses, providing the room with fresh air and quickly removing humid air.

Exhaust ventilation

The design of this ventilation always includes exhaust fan. For air circulation, a supply air supply must be constructed. Sometimes cracks in the walls are used to bring in fresh air, or windows or doors are opened slightly. The advantage of exhaust ventilation is the reduction of pressure in the bathhouse. The action must be compensated by a constant flow of air from outside.

Ventilation with powerful exhaust perfectly removes harmful gases and moist air with an unpleasant odor. You can build such a ventilation system not only in the steam room, but also in showers, washrooms, areas with a swimming pool or in bathrooms. Typically, a basic exhaust ventilation system kit includes a fan and a duct. If the device is too noisy, you can use a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Installed according to the exhaust principle, however the fan must be placed on the inlet. When the supply ventilation system is activated, an increase in pressure in the room is observed, which must be promptly compensated by the release of air through the hood or gaps in the walls, floor, ceiling, vents, and doors.

Supply fans are not considered comfortable if they operate at cold temperatures. In winter, they supply ice-cold air, which must be additionally heated by pre-installed air heaters. If it is necessary to purify a large amount of incoming air, filters can be used.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Combination of artificial inflow and exhaust air is often equipped with recuperators, silencers, and filters. Additional devices provide comfort while in the bathhouse, while at the same time there is constant, good air circulation. In order not to worry about ventilation, you can equip it with an automatic control unit.

Creating a design for supply and exhaust artificial ventilation often causes difficulties. It is necessary to calculate the optimal air exchange in all rooms of the bathhouse at the design stage. The amount of air coming out must match the amount of air coming in. Sometimes air flows are not deliberately balanced. To prevent the spread of excessive humidity or unpleasant odors from a certain room, the pressure in it is artificially reduced. To do this, a hood is installed with greater intensity than in other rooms.

When arranging ventilation in the bathhouse, you should take care not only of the steam room, but also of other important rooms. To save on heating costs, you can use the warm air generated in the steam room, venting it through other rooms rather than outside. By adapting the ventilation system to specific needs, you can make the most successful option.

We have already repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.

This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to practical issues of ventilation in the bathhouse.

How to properly make ventilation in a bathhouse: plan at the construction stage

Indeed, cases of construction of baths without any ventilation are far from isolated. At first glance, it seems that the train has already left. However, in reality, there is always an opportunity to fix everything, although you will have to come to terms with the fact that it will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to do forgotten ventilation in a brick bathhouse, where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls during the construction stage. But in other cases the task is not easy.

But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout of the ventilation holes and ducts with which they are connected to the street or neighboring rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this diagram, the volume of the premises and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated to ensure the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: steam room, washing room, relaxation room, dressing room, toilet. If ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.

If the bathhouse has already been built

Let's take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse, in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to burst ventilation and use the furnace draft as ventilation.

This will solve the problem as a whole, but there are disadvantages worth being aware of:

By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room as we transfer steam to other rooms (instead of the street, where the influx comes from, it is directed inside and condensation falls there), and then the steam leaves, and the temperature has only dropped slightly and will be restored in a short time time.
To use the stove draft, you will still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then an influx from neighboring rooms will flow through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.

To regulate ventilation using the stove, a damper and stove doors are used. If you need to increase air exchange, just open the damper and firebox doors all the way. To reduce it, the damper is covered, but not completely, because when closed with unburned firewood, this is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.

By the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bathhouse made of any material can be solved using the described methods. They cannot completely replace supply and exhaust ventilation, but they save you from the hassle of making holes in the walls.

If such ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill into the wall. But more on that below.

Device, diagrams: how to make ventilation in a bathhouse

There are a number of materials included in other articles, so in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot of useful information on the topic of interest:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in a bathhouse: a step-by-step guide

Now let’s start analyzing the points that make up creating a bath ventilation system with your own hands; let’s call it a step-by-step guide.

Scheme selection

In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question “how to properly make ventilation in a bathhouse” is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the supply opening should be located below the exhaust opening. What exactly the height difference between them will be is up to you to decide. Despite the fact that many sources suggest making an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensation), there is a more advanced scheme, in which for one exhaust vent outside there are two exhaust vents inside. It's simple: install a pipe with two holes - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has only one exit to the street.

The schemes also differ in which walls to install the hood on. Most often there are no issues with the air vent - it is done under the stove, and the hood is made both on the opposite and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to the adjacent room.

Select the optimal ventilation flow path

Calculations are simply made only for forced ventilation. For natural, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is this necessary? Take the case where the exhaust vent faces the same side from which a strong wind blows. And it turns out that because of this, inflow tends to get into the exhaust hole. Then the supply air will also “turn around” in the opposite direction. This is called backdraft or reverse draft.

In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be lengthened to lead in the desired direction, and even made with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.

The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet inlet to the side from which the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood is on the opposite side or through the roof along a high pipe.

ADVICE! Rather than making ventilation ducts with elbows, it is better to immediately do forced ventilation.

By the way, not every wall will accept a ventilation duct well in its thickness. It is better not to do this in external block walls. There, all ventilation is carried out along the internal walls and partitions, often on top of the walls.

How to make a hole in the wall

This point is discussed in great detail below.

Installation of pipes and gratings

Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.

ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not damage them.

Ventilation in the waiting room

The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, in which it is comfortable to stay after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - a hood. And to speed up the gas exchange process, a fan is often placed on this hood. The exhaust vent itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled in an accessible way into the wall, a plug is placed on it on one side, and a grille or deflector on the other. In case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions supplied with the device.

But if the furnace of the stove is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air comes to the stove from the street. To do this, a ventilation duct is installed, most likely made of galvanized steel, which runs under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the stove door. Installation of this channel is carried out until the completion of work on the floor. A pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into a hole in the wall, where it is secured with polyurethane foam and covered with a grill, and at the other end it is led out to the stove and equipped with an adjustable plug.

How to make ventilation in a steam room

The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms in the bathhouse just as the steam room itself differs from them in its extreme nature. In a Russian bath, the ventilation is temporarily closed during steaming. But at the same time it is extremely important for saturating the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, and distribution of air flows.

More detailed information on this topic can be found in the articles and in general. In particular, among the well-proven methods of ventilating this room is bastu ventilation. But you can also read about it in the mentioned articles.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Ventilation diagrams in the steam room can also be found in. As for the stages of self-installation of air ducts, they are no different from those given above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in walls made of logs or timber, as well as from blocks.

How to make a hole in a log house wall

Before you start you need to know place and dimensions future hole, which is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still need to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After this, markings are made. (It is advisable at this moment to have both pipes and gratings on hand so that you can control the process using them.)
A wood drill, the length of which should be greater than the thickness of the wall with the entire “pie”, if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the marking.
After this, from the outside of the wall draw a circle of the required diameter with a drilled hole in the center.
External and internal wall trim is neatly sawed out in a circle, freeing the wall log.
They are made with the same drill holes in the log around the entire circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the internal fragment later. Make sure the drill is perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
A chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between the drilled holes. Work should be done both inside and outside the bathhouse.
Taking out the middle part, don't trim the edges- it's too much.

Useful video

And here in the video the same thing is done using a drill and a crown:

How to make a hole in a block wall

The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that you use a concrete drill (you can use a crown instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with metal (reinforcing mesh, dowels, fastening fittings for openings). If this happens, you will need special pliers (hydraulic).

IMPORTANT! There is also a chance of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are dowels under the ceiling that hold the power plate, so it’s worth renting pliers in advance.

As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross-section), which must be thermally insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.

Plugs and dampers are purchased for the required diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because plastic in the steam room will release carcinogens that we do not need, and metal will burn in a heated steam room. As for the diagrams, we have already provided links to them.

Useful video

It shows how to make a square hole in a wall using a drill.

Well, that’s all we could tell you about how to make ventilation in a bathhouse. We can only wish you success in realizing your plans. Ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands is a difficult task, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the lost time or the money invested.

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