How to check in correctly. Landscaping of a site on a slope

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When arranging a backyard area, it is often necessary to lay a pipe in a ditch for entry to the site. It is embedded in . Thanks to this system, the entrance to the site becomes available at any time of the year and in any weather.

Reinforced concrete products

The first step is to choose the drainage material. In this case, it is very important that it withstand strong pressure loads. Therefore, you first need to find out which pipes are best suited for driving through a ditch.

Reinforced concrete products are quite common. Their strength is not disputed by anyone. Laying them on your own is impossible. Very heavy products have to be mounted using special equipment.

The concrete type of pipes is made in two stages:

  1. First, a steel frame is made of reinforcement bars welded round each other.
  2. Next, the base is poured with high-grade concrete mortar. After that, the workpiece is compacted using a centrifuge and vibrocompression.

Due to the peculiarities of production, reinforced concrete products are very durable and smooth. Therefore, in this case, you should not worry if you decide to lay the ends of the pipe under the race with stones.

The structure of the vibropressed material is as dense as possible. Therefore, water cannot penetrate inside it and contribute to the rusting of the steel frame.

Consider the parameters of reinforced concrete pipes:

  • their cross section can be 0.3-1.2 m;
  • wall thickness is 140-200 mm;
  • length ranges from 250 to 500 cm.

Reinforced concrete pipes for drainage ditches have two stiffness classes:

  1. The parameter of the first category means that the product can be laid in the ground no more than 6 m. Such structures are not suitable for deeper burial.
  2. The material of the second stiffness class has a higher bearing capacity. It can be placed at depths up to 10 m.

The main advantages of reinforced concrete drainage are its high level of strength and long service life. The main disadvantages are high cost, large size and weight. Concrete structures can be laid only with the help of special equipment.

A separate type of such structures are asbestos-cement pipes for check-in. They are lighter and more compact than reinforced concrete counterparts.

Steel products

Steel is another common material for drainage. It is very durable and products from it serve 30-40 years. Installation of such structures will allow you to completely solve the problem of entering the site. Trucks will also be able to enter its territory.

Another important advantage of the material is that steel pipes for driving through a ditch can be installed on their own. For this, it is not necessary to involve professionals. This situation will save the construction budget.

The main disadvantage of steel pipes is their susceptibility to corrosion. However, this minus can be stopped if the products are waterproofed, for example, using paint waterproofing. You can also purchase analogues with thick walls. This will automatically extend their lifespan.

So that you do not have. Do not use a used pipe in a ditch for a ride. After installation, the old material may deform and, as a result, burst when heavy vehicles pass.

Plastic analogues

Plastic pipes in the ditch at the check-in are the most modern. They are light in weight and easy to install. This does not require significant physical effort and hire special equipment. Arrangement of a drainage ditch with a plastic pipe can be done on your own.

Plastic drainage is inexpensive. Important advantages of the material, in comparison with metal - it does not corrode and is inert to chemically aggressive environments. Drainage structures are made of especially durable plastic. It can withstand increased pressure loads when driving vehicles. Therefore, products from it are laid even under the main roads. The process of laying plastic pipes in a ditch for the race is completely safe. Also, the material can withstand temperatures from -60 degrees to +95.

In the manufacture of polymer drainage, the following are most often used:

  • polyvinyl chloride;
  • polyethylene;
  • polypropylene.

In most cases, PVC products are used. It can be single layer or double layer. In the second case, the products are corrugated pipes, they are also perfect for driving through them to the site. Their top layer is made in the form of an accordion. This increases the elasticity of the drainage and helps it withstand pressure loads.

Corrugated products can have a large diameter and length from 1 to 6 meters. Also, their top layer can be filtering.

For laying in a ditch, it is desirable to use the most rigid drainage material made of plastic. Such an entrance will also withstand heavy vehicles. The best option is to choose a two-layer plastic corrugated pipe for installation. It is the most durable of polymer analogues.

The cross section of such structures can be from 0.2 meters to 1. It is highly undesirable to install used structures. They have reduced strength, and the life of such drainage will be short.

Do-it-yourself installation of pipes in a ditch: a step-by-step procedure

Watch the video

When the soil in the territory is prone to swamping, then before making a check-in to the site through a ditch with your own hands, it must be drained. It is important here, when constructing drainage, not to harm the natural runoff of rain, melt or subsoil water.

First, let's talk about how to make a simple version of entering the site through a ditch with your own hands. You need to work when the trench is not filled with water:

  1. Remove the top layer of soil along the future entrance.
  2. Scatter quartz river sand at the bottom of the trench. Flatten it and tamp it down. The thickness of the sand cushion should be 15-20 cm.
  3. When the passage width is 6 meters, a structure with a length of at least 8 m is placed in the ditch. Its diameter is selected based on the volume of drains. Most often, products with a diameter of 30-50 cm are laid. This implies that water will fill them by a quarter. Otherwise, in the spring season, melted moisture is able to fill the courtyard without finding a way out through the ice crust.
  4. After installing the pipe under the road for arrival, it should be covered with a mixture of sand and crushed stone or gravel. Filling can be done in two layers. First, throw sand into the trench, lay geotextile on top of it, and then lay rubble.
  5. In the same way, areas with the top layer of soil removed should be filled up.
  6. All layers after their laying should be well mortified.
  7. It is recommended that the entry device be completed with concreting. Without a screed, as well as limiters on the sides, the road will begin to part when cars move.

More complex drainage entry structure with retaining walls

It is more reliable, since the plastic corrugated pipe for arrival is concreted on both sides. Thus, the road is limited by supporting walls. They can be made protruding above the arrival plane or poured flush with it.

Here is a diagram of how to equip not only a durable, but also a more aesthetic passage to the site:

  1. When the laying of the pipe into the ditch for the race is completed, the formwork for the head of concrete is mounted in turn on both sides of it.
  2. Then it is highly desirable to strengthen the supporting walls with a welded reinforcing cage.
  3. After that, a high-grade concrete mortar - M-400 or M-500 is placed in the formwork.
  4. Concrete should dry for at least 3-4 days. Then the formwork can be removed.
  5. Further, the pipe under the arrival is covered with sand and crushed stone (or gravel). The heads will not allow the gravel to disperse. Therefore, it can not be covered with geotextiles. Stone chips are better to use granite, not white lime.
  6. After that, the passage can be lined with a concrete screed, road slabs, paving slabs, paving stones, natural stone, etc.

How to equip the entrance to the site with a slope

It may happen that on your site the passage to it will not be smooth, but with a slope. In this case, the slope can be both positive and negative. In other words - up or down from the roadway.

Watch the video

In any case, it is necessary to ensure sufficient coupling of the roadway with the wheels of vehicles in order to ensure safe passage. There is no need to leave such a situation to chance.

Entry device for slopes up or down from the road

When the terrain in front of the site has a slight slope or you are planning to build a basement garage, it is best to equip the drive in the form of a ramp. The slope of the road (up or down from the site) up to 25 percent is considered small. In other words, for each meter of the length of the canvas, the height difference is up to 25 centimeters. In front of the car park, the slope should be leveled to a flat horizontal plane.

The pipe for entering the site through the ditch should be laid correctly. With the existing slope, it is necessary to carry out the following stages of construction:

  1. First, earthworks are carried out. Marking is done, then the top layer of soil is removed in the form of steps.
  2. The sidewalls of the race are reinforced with retaining walls. Formwork is knocked down under them, in which a frame of reinforcement is welded. Then the concrete solution is poured into the box.
  3. When the slope is small and the car does not need to be lowered into the basement, the edges of the road can be limited by a curb made of concrete slabs.
  4. Then a pipe for a drainage ditch for the race is laid on a sand cushion.
  5. Then the drainage is covered with gravel with a layer of 10-15 cm. The pillow should be well compacted.
  6. Then the ascent or descent is poured with a concrete screed. Its thickness should be at least 10-12 cm. The mixture should be kneaded sufficiently dense and viscous, otherwise it will begin to slip when setting.
  7. When the screed is completely dry, the passage can be lined with paving slabs, paving stones or natural stone.

Other solutions for safe driving with uneven terrain

As a variation of safe passage to the site, one can consider its arrangement along a curved path (spiral). In this case, the length of the path will increase, but the angle of inclination will decrease. With this option, the roadbed can be started around the circumference of the main building.

This solution will make it possible to arrange parking for several cars. The only restriction for the construction of such a race is that the suburban area must be large enough.

To protect the passage from icing, you can put a canopy over it. The easiest way to build it is from polycarbonate, screwed to a metal frame of supports and trusses in the form of arches. As a roofing material for a canopy, asbestos-cement slate, metal tiles, and profiled flooring are also suitable. In particular, such protection will be useful if you do not build a garage.

As an anti-icing measure, you can use cable electric heating of the road surface. Then its surface in the cold season will always be clean from snow and ice.

Conclusion

Watch the video

Knowing how to lay the pipe in the run-in ditch will help you ensure safe and efficient site drainage. In this case, you can use products from different materials. All of them have their pluses and minuses.

Entries

Even at the stage of planning the construction of a country house and the arrangement of a backyard territory, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of access to the construction site of construction equipment and trucks. Most land areas for private ownership require a drainage ditch to drain the soil, and therefore the question of how to enter a site through a ditch is quite relevant for many. Problems with the check-in device can also arise with high relief and the desire to have an underground garage.

Entrance to the site through a ditch without disturbing the drainage of adjacent areas

If the soil of the site becomes swampy, the soil needs to be drained by arranging a drainage ditch along the street. At the same time, the check-in will have to be built without damaging the natural flow of groundwater, melted snow and rainwater.

A simple entry device above the channel drain

The water channel under the road can be made of:

  • reinforced concrete pipes;
  • reinforced concrete trays;
  • metal pipes;
  • plastic corrugated pipes.

Reinforced concrete products are strong, but heavy. They require the use of construction equipment when laying. Metal pipes are also quite heavy. Plastic ones are light, a person can cope with their laying in a ditch even alone. Reinforced concrete products and metal pipes can be used, which will reduce the cost of organizing travel.

Yard entry option

How to make a simple entrance to the site through a ditch:

  1. Work begins when there is no water in the ditch. Along the future check-in, part of the fertile soil layer is removed.
  2. A sand cushion is poured at the bottom of the ditch, leveled and compacted.
  3. With a race width of 6 m, a pipe is laid at least 8 m long. The diameter depends on the amount of drainage water. On average, pipes are taken from 300 to 500 mm in diameter, taking into account their filling with water by ¼, otherwise in spring flood waters can flood sections without breaking through the ice plug.
  4. The pipe is covered with sand and gravel. It is possible to perform a two-layer backfill, down - sand, on top - gravel, laying geotextiles between them. Similarly, they do wherever a layer of soil is taken out.
  5. A layer of rubble is laid on top. All layers are carefully rammed.
  6. It is desirable to perform concreting as a finishing layer. Without side restraints and concreting, the road will pass under the wheels of heavy vehicles.

Used metal drainage pipe

Construction of passage through a ditch with retaining walls

It is more reliable to concrete the pipe on both sides, limiting the road with retaining walls, which can protrude above the level of the road or be flush with it.

Here is the order of how to make the entrance to the site not only more durable, but also attractive:

  1. After the pipe is laid (see paragraphs 1,2 and 3 above), on both sides (possibly sequentially) a formwork is made for a concrete head. It is recommended to reinforce the retaining walls with a welded reinforcement frame.
  2. Concrete is poured, preferably grades from M400, and allowed to dry for at least a day, after which the formwork is removed.
  3. Sand, gravel and crushed stone fall asleep on top of the pipe. The heads will not allow the rubble to disperse and you can not cover it with anything. In this case, it is better to take not white (lime) crushed stone, but granite.
  4. If desired, a concrete screed can be made on top of the rubble, road slabs can be laid or the entrance can be paved with paving stones, natural stone, lumber.

Reinforced concrete pipe, concrete cap and backfill

The slope can be positive or negative: up or down from the road. In any case, ensure that the belt has enough grip on the wheels to ensure safety.

Check-in device with a slope up from the road according to the principle of a ramp

If the terrain has a slight slope or it is planned to build an underground garage, it is convenient to enter in the form of a car ramp. A slight slope - up to 25%, i.e. for every 1 m of distance, the height difference is less than 25 cm, and before parking the car, the slope should decrease down to a horizontal surface.

In order to properly enter a site with a slope, you need to think carefully and complete the following construction steps:

  1. Excavation. They make markings, after which they cut off part of the soil in the form of steps.
  2. The sides are reinforced with retaining walls (for an underground garage). To do this, formwork is assembled, reinforcement is installed in the form of a frame and concrete is poured. If the slope is small and the car does not need to be lowered to the minus first floor, the edges of the road can be fenced off with a concrete curb.
  3. The surface of the race is covered with a layer of rubble, about 15 cm thick. They are rammed.
  4. The descent (ascent) is concreted with a layer of high-quality concrete with a thickness of at least 12 cm. The solution must be viscous to prevent the concrete from slipping during the drying process. Dry slowly, moistening the surface from time to time.
  5. Finishing. Paving with paving stones, ribbed paving slabs or other non-slip material, followed by tamping.

Slight slope up at the entrance

Other solutions for safe entry in uneven terrain

As an option, you can consider entering the site along a curve, lengthening the path and reducing the angle of inclination. In this case, the road can be put around the house. This solution allows you to organize parking for several cars. This option is possible if you are a happy owner of a large enough area.

To protect the road from icing, you can install a canopy over it. Most often, it is made from polycarbonate sheets fixed to a metal structure in the form of supports and arched floor trusses. Corrugated board, slate, tiles and lumber can also be used as a canopy material. Especially the canopy will be useful to those who do not provide for the construction of a garage.

As an anti-icing measure, consider installing electrically heated concrete pavement. In this case, the entry surface will always be dry.

Electric concrete heating device

Not all of the proposed options are suitable for resolving the issue - how to make an entrance to the site with your own hands. Many of them require at least the involvement of construction equipment. Ultimately, you need to correctly assess the feasibility of your plans on your own and make the right decision.

Good day! Tell me how (or what is better) to make a drive to the dacha, if the site is sloping?

Eugene, Obninsk.

Hello, Eugene from Obninsk!

/ You have a good city, but have not been in it since 1968, even lost contact with relatives who lived in it. /

Entrance to sites with a slope is done according to two options. Either in full compliance with the slope of the terrain, or by cutting the ground in such a way that a car parking space is obtained, surrounded on three sides by soil, which is reinforced with walls. The second is done less frequently, since it is labor-intensive, especially with large relief slopes.

In the simplest versions, everything is done in the usual way. The layout of the entrance is being made, which includes marking it, removing the soil in full accordance with the slope to a depth of about 15-20 centimeters. That is, it is necessary to remove the root system of the grass. After that, the entire area is backfilled with a layer of sand or ASG of at least 10 centimeters.

Then the sides of the entrance are framed with formwork from edged boards with their fastening to vertically hammered pegs. After that, the entire area of ​​​​the entrance is packed with stone battle or rubble. For greater strength, welded mesh cards (0.5 * 2 meters) are laid over the entire area with an overlap of its edges on each other. And from above, concrete is poured at the rate of about a share of cement, three shares of sand and two shares of gravel.

A layer of solution from 5 to 10 centimeters. With a long rule (it is possible from a profiled pipe of a small section), the pouring surface is leveled.

In order to avoid cracking of the coating over its entire width, every two linear meters of the area, wooden slats with a thickness of at least a centimeter are laid on the edge. Wood is pre-treated with bituminous mastic. The top surface of the slats must be flush with the concrete pavement.

In the simplest cases, a layer of material is simply poured over the entire race area. It can be gravel, gravel, small stone battle, etc. That is, something that cannot be washed away by streams of rainwater.

It is desirable to compact the material well, partly this is done with the help of a car, repeatedly rolling over the poured material. The thickness of the coating layer ranges from five to 10 centimeters, depending on the financial capabilities of the owner.

In some cases, when the soil is subject to subsidence in its characteristics, after a few years, the operation of filling new portions of the material should be repeated. It is undesirable to use lime gravel (a distinctive feature is its white color), although it is cheap, its maximum can be enough in some cases for no more than five years.

Sometimes, drainage grooves are made along the sides of the road for drainage. They are also covered with the same materials.

So nothing complicated.

Other questions about garden and sidewalk paths:

sidewalk paths

Today we will talk about how to quickly make a check-in to your suburban area. Several construction methods will be considered, the pros and cons of each of them. We will tell you which races and from what material it is better to build.

Our problem is a drainage ditch

Drainage ditches are located between the road surface and the plots, which are necessary for a constant flow of water. Therefore, it is forbidden to fill them up. Usually these are open-type ditches (the easiest way), its depth can depend only on the characteristics of the soil - the greater its moisture permeability, the deeper the pit should be (up to 1 meter, with walls sloped at 45ᵒ).

From the drainage systems, water flows into special ditches.

Note! For digging, only a special bucket is used, otherwise the soil will crumble and prevent the free movement of water.

Why do you need a good ride?

Let's make a reservation right away that such a race is necessary at each site, and regardless of whether you have a car. Now let's explain. Check-in is quite convenient. For example, if you are just equipping your country estate, then you will need to order a truck with sand or other building materials. Moreover, if you rarely visit the cottage, then firewood will be required for stove heating. Of course, to chop them in the forest, but what if there is none nearby? It remains only to order a truck with firewood.

And then the question arises: where to unload all this? Don't leave it on the road? It is better to unload on the site. And if you have your own car, then the presence of an entrance is not just a convenience, but also a necessity.

How to check in to the site? Instruction

As we have just noted, the sites are fenced with drainage ditches for water flow. Due to the ban on filling the ditch, the race will be built on top of it.

Note! Sometimes there are no ditches between the plots and the pavement. This happens extremely rarely, but at the same time, you will not have any difficulties in arranging the entrance.

We will consider the option with the presence of such a ditch. There are several options in this case, but we will try to consider each of them (at least briefly).

Option number 1. Check-in for a car from pipes

The most common option for how to make a check-in to the site is to install a metal pipe in a ditch. Of course, the bottom of the ditch is first covered with a 15-centimeter “cushion” of crushed stone, so that in the future the pipe will not fail anywhere. After preparation, the pipe is laid and covered with sand and gravel.

Note! So that the rubble does not spread, experts advise pouring concrete fences on the sides.


After the concrete has hardened, the race can be decorated with decorative tiles or stones. This method of arranging a check-in has a number of obvious advantages:

  • practicality - the integrity of the drainage system is not violated;
  • versatility - the pipe can be used for any race (the main thing is that its size is appropriate);
  • durability of the structure;
  • increased strength - the pipe is able to withstand the weight of both a car and a truck.

But there are also a few disadvantages that you should also be aware of:

  • this is a very expensive option, since pipes of this diameter cost about $ 500, but if you wish, you can spend time and find used ones;
  • also note that without the use of special equipment, such a pipe cannot be installed by yourself (it weighs a lot).

In general, if you do not take them into account, then this is a very good way.

Option number 2. Construction of an entrance from wooden sleepers

It is worth noting that in small gardens there are often car races made of wooden sleepers. Of course, in terms of strength, such a design is in many ways superior to that described above. For this reason, you should not even count on the fact that it will be able to withstand a multi-ton truck, but if there is not enough money to use pipes, then this option is quite suitable.

In the manufacture of sleepers, they are treated with a special antiseptic substance that extends their service life. But on the other hand, if such sleepers are used in the construction of the entrance, then this aspect has a negative side - this is a characteristic specific smell. Therefore, in the case of a small area (especially if the recreation area, for example, is located near the entrance), it is undesirable to immediately resort to wooden sleepers - it is better to carefully weigh the pros and cons. It may seem silly to you, but first you should smell the sleepers before buying.


Antiseptic-treated wooden sleepers are another good option.

Over time, the smell disappears, so we advise you to buy already used material. Especially since it costs mere pennies today. Among the advantages of this method, I would like to note the following:

  • low cost;
  • no need to use special equipment (an ordinary Gazelle is quite suitable for transporting sleepers, and you can handle the laying alone);
  • fast installation - the construction of the structure usually takes only a few hours.

There are some disadvantages to keep in mind:

  • specific smell, which we talked about above;
  • low structural strength (suitable only for cars);
  • sleepers have the peculiarity of moving apart in the spring when the snow melts.

Option number 3. Construction of the entrance from reinforced concrete slabs

The last option we consider involves the use of reinforced concrete slabs in construction. Of course, it is impossible to cope with such work alone, because the plates weigh quite a lot - remember this during installation.

Note! Reinforced concrete slabs are not suitable for everyone.


They will not work in the following cases:

  • if there are floods in autumn and spring;
  • if your area has weak soil.

This is due to the fact that the soil under heavy plates will erode, and those, in turn, will begin to shift. As a result, faults and cracks can form, which is why such arrivals at the site are extremely rare.

Making a race from plates is a rather labor-intensive process, while the plates themselves (when compared with steel pipes) are less durable, they can withstand somewhat less weight. It happened that the race simply broke under the weight of a truck (10-ton KamAZ, for example).

Note! It is for this reason that when building a check-in, we advise you to resort to the first option - by means of an iron pipe.

Cost of work

If you want to hire specialists to work, then be prepared to donate a considerable amount for a check-in to the site. So, the most budget option, as noted earlier, costs about $ 500. A more expensive option (with the same pipes, but with additionally equipped concrete walls) will cost about $ 1,100. Finally, an exclusive race (profiled pipes, concrete walls, a layer of geotextile, a monolithic reinforced concrete slab between the supports) today costs about $1,800. As you can see, this pleasure is not cheap, so it is recommended to do everything yourself.

Owners of sites, the path to which is blocked by canals, face such problems: building a house is impossible - special equipment will not drive up (you cannot transfer materials manually), if the house is already standing, then the owner himself is not able to drive up to it (you can’t leave the car unattended). Under no circumstances should you fall asleep. And then the question arises, how to organize a solid platform that can not only withstand the weight of the transport, but also allow the water to flow freely along the drain? Let's try to deal with this problem further.

We build an entrance to the site through a ditch of small width using reinforced concrete slabs

This option of arranging the entrance to the site through the ditch is the least troublesome, but at the same time it is also more expensive. It is completely unprofitable to use it to cover wide barriers, since the wider the opening, the larger the plate should be. And the larger its size, the stronger the purchase will hit the budget.

1. A preliminary analysis of soils is carried out along the edges of the canal. If they are weak, then they should be strengthened. Otherwise, under the weight of the plate and transport, they will collapse.

2. Strengthening is carried out by erecting concrete supports next to the walls of the channel. Formwork is installed, double reinforcement is laid, concrete is poured. The gap between the supports and the walls is tightly filled with sand or clay.

how to make an entrance to the site through a ditch (stages-1-4)
construction of a driveway from a drainage pipe and reinforced concrete

3. The soil is removed along the width of the product along the edges of the channel to a depth that is greater than the thickness of the plate (standard 22 cm) by 10 cm. For the construction of the site, products 3 m long and 1.5 m wide are most often used. If the channel width is more than 1 m, then you will need two products that will not lie across, but along.

4. The site is carefully leveled and rammed. 5 cm of sand and the same amount of gravel are poured from above. Each layer is rammed with a vibrating plate.

5. lays the slab on the prepared site. The discrepancy between the height of the slab and the soil is leveled by removing the excess or, conversely, by adding.

It is completely impossible to make an entrance to the site through a ditch using a reinforced concrete slab. But this can be done in another way.

samples of pipes and trays for drainage
ditch entry schemes

Organization of a site over a wide channel by erecting sides and an embankment

This method of building an entrance to the site through a ditch is less expensive, but very troublesome. Work can be significantly complicated by the fact that water is constantly flowing in the canal.

1. If there is water in the dug recess, then it must be pumped out. Some do not do this and pour concrete into the formwork installed directly in the water. The quality and strength of the product obtained in this way is a big question, there is a big risk of their destruction after a short period of time.

2. At a distance of 50 cm from the intended boundaries of the future site, partitions are installed. They can be made of slate, wood and other materials. By blocking the flow, the water is pumped out by the pump.

3. The surface of the entire site is covered with sand, and then with gravel. The thickness of the last layer must be at least 30 cm. Both layers are compacted.



4. A pipe is laid on the intended place, supported by bricks for a while so that it does not move.

5. Formwork is assembled along the edges of the pipe with a height slightly exceeding the height of the channel walls. Supports are required due to the mass of concrete to be poured. Double knitted fittings are installed inside. The mixture is poured and it is expected to dry completely.

6. 30 cm of gravel (fraction 70) is poured over the pipe and rammed. Then another layer of the same material, but with a smaller fraction, is again rammed. If the height allows, you need to lay 3 such layers (the last one with an even smaller fraction).

7. Then the entire surface is covered with 3 cm of a layer of their granite chips or gravel with a fraction of 5. Geotextiles are laid on top and a thin layer of sand is poured.

8. On the surface, a reinforcing mesh is laid on fragments of bricks 3 cm high. The sides are installed around the perimeter of the site. The cement mixture is poured 6 cm high.

When counting the number of layers of all materials and their thickness, it is necessary to first measure the height of the channel. If it is insufficient, then it can be artificially deepened by removing soil from its bottom. Removal should be long and smooth, and always at a slight angle so as not to disturb the flow of water. If this idea is abandoned, then it will be necessary to reduce the thickness of the upper gravel embankment. But in no case should it be less than 50 cm.

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