Today there is a huge number of fasteners that allow you to install certain items. One of the most popular fasteners is the dowel. This is a special element that has a large number of varieties. Now let's look at the most popular types of dowels and learn how to attach a dowel.

"Quick Installation"! Dowel nail

Another common name is “quick installation”. Its popularity is mainly due to the fact that there is no need to use a screwdriver or tighten a screw to secure it. In this case, everything is much simpler. A hole is pre-drilled in the brick/concrete, then a dowel-nail is inserted into it and driven in with a hammer. Installation of certain items on this type of self-tapping screw is very quick and easy. Where is it used most often?

Very often it is used for installing skirting boards. In most cases, skirting boards already have the required number of holes. The hole should only be made in the wall, in previously marked places. It is very important that installing skirting boards using a dowel-nail is very convenient, quick and simple. When all the holes are ready, a dowel-nail is inserted into the holes on the baseboard, which is driven with a hammer all the way to the side. As for the size, for skirting boards it is best to use 6x40 dowel nails, and a 6 mm drill for drilling holes. It is best to use a dowel with a fungus. A hidden cap will not provide the necessary stability, unlike a fungus. However, for plastic skirting boards, a hidden cap will be sufficient.

It should be noted that the dowel-nail has different types and sizes. As mentioned above, the dowel-nail has a secret cap and a mushroom-shaped cap. The secret one has a small side, the fungus, in turn, presses much harder. The dimensions of the dowel-nail are:

6x40.
6x60.
6x80.
8x60.
8x80.
8x100.
8x120.

As for choosing a drill for drilling a hole, it should be chosen directly to the diameter and length of the dowel-nail you have chosen.

Note! The nail in this dowel has a head with slots for a Phillips screwdriver. This is done for the purpose of dismantling if necessary. It is not designed to be screwed in; it just needs to be driven in with a hammer.

The design of the butterfly dowel and its installation

A fastening device that resembles a butterfly in shape. During the process of twisting, the dowel is compressed, due to which special legs are pressed against the back wall of the drywall. One of the advantages of this fastener is that it increases the area of pressure generated when hanging an object. In other words, the specific shape of the butterfly dowel evenly distributes the entire resulting load on the drywall. Several design features should be highlighted:

Used for installing single and double sheets of drywall, respectively. The butterfly dowel can also be used for fastening chipboard, gypsum fiber board and other sheet building materials that are suitable in thickness.
Sold complete with a self-tapping screw according to the length and type of thread. However, if for some reason it does not fit, you can replace it with another type of screw.
The part of the dowel that is inside the drywall sheet does not rotate around its axis. This is achieved thanks to the ribbed surface of the element.
Internal threads on the far head facilitate clamping and folding. And the presence of special internal legs, which are attached to this head, provide greater rigidity when the butterfly dowel is twisted.

Fastening this dowel is quite simple and reliable. A few minutes are enough for this. The installation sequence is as follows:

Where it is planned to organize the fastening, a mark is made with a pencil.
A drill makes a hole. It should be of such depth that the plastic dowel fits completely.
Then fasteners are put on the self-tapping screw. It could be just a bracket, a hook, a special plate, a clamp, and so on.
At the last stage, a self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel until it stops. During the screwing process, the plastic dowel behind the sheet of drywall folds. This can be felt during the process of twisting it. To check the strength, lightly pull the dowel towards you. But be careful not to tear it out.

In some cases, it can be problematic to use a butterfly dowel. This is due to the fact that the space between the drywall and the wall is very small. In this case, you need to drill a small hole in the wall. This will allow you to screw the self-tapping screw into the plastic dowel without any problems. This method will avoid using a long dowel and screw to secure it to the wall. Thus, the suspended structure will rest securely on the drywall.

Molly dowel attachment

This type of dowel also has some installation features. A hole is drilled with an eight millimeter drill. Then a dowel is inserted into the drywall, which has a side with two teeth and is pressed tightly. This action will prevent the anchor from twisting when it is fixed. After this, using the screw that comes with the kit, using a screwdriver or screwdriver, the dowel is screwed tightly to the drywall. In this case, the central part of the sleeve is twisted, thereby providing excellent fixation to the object that will be secured.

Dowel molly has a number of advantages, for example:

Has the ability to withstand loads of up to 35 kilograms.
The screw and dowel are sold as a set.
If necessary, the structure can be dismantled.

In turn, it has one significant drawback, namely the high price. However, a molly dowel for drywall is ideal!

Drywall dowels

Particular care must be taken when choosing and, accordingly, installing dowels for drywall. To secure a shelf or cabinet to drywall, you will need special dowels. Their choice will largely depend on the weight of the suspended structure. If you make incorrect calculations, there is a high risk that the structure will simply fall.

One of the most common types of dowels is the plug dowel. It consists of two parts, namely a cork and a dowel, respectively. In most cases, it is used for fastening certain objects in a concrete wall. Its spacer part consists of three nylon sections. There is a passage hole in the tail section. It is this that greatly facilitates screwing, as well as good movement of the screw during the process of tightening it. Thanks to the expansion, which is carried out simultaneously from three sides, the dowel is securely held in the wall. In some cases, the dowel plug can also be used for fastening in drywall. However, as experts recommend, it is better not to take risks. Although some people consider a dowel-plug to be a universal fastener, it is best to use a special dowel-nail. In general, all specialized dowels for drywall have one main difference - the harpoon expansion principle. It is he who ensures high-quality fastening of the structure. All drywall dowels can be divided into two groups:

Unclamping.
Walkthroughs.

Spring pass-through

Walk-through dowels are practical in cases where the fastening should be carried out in the ceiling, for example, when installing a chandelier. The spring pass-through dowel has a threaded metal rod, a spring mechanism, and folding locking wings. During its installation inside the plasterboard structure, the spring mechanism opens when acted upon by the locking hook-wing. This creates a reliable fastening. In this case, the other end of the spring dowel can have a different shape: in the form of a ring, a rod, a screw, etc. The choice of shape is directly influenced by the object that will be suspended. This mechanism is also practical in cases where drywall is lined with ceramic tiles.

Self-tapping dowel

This type of drywall dowel is made from two different materials:

Nylon grade TT22.
Metal DRIVA.

As a rule, they are used in cases where it is necessary to attach to a single-layer or multi-layer plasterboard sheet. Moreover, it may have a decorative coating and insulation on the inside. The main difference between self-tapping dowels is their size. When choosing it, you should make sure that it will not stick out on the other side. As for the DRIVA self-tapping dowel, it is made from an alloy of aluminum and zinc. It is noteworthy that to attach them there is no need to pre-drill a hole in the drywall. The end of such a dowel is equipped with its own drill. They screw very easily into drywall, providing a secure fastening. They can withstand quite a lot of weight of an object. The dowel itself is tightened using a simple screwdriver or screwdriver.

Note! If the sheet thickness exceeds 15 millimeters, then it is recommended to first drill a thin hole.

Dowel umbrella

Its shape resembles an umbrella. The umbrella dowel provides a reliable support. It opens in the space behind the stove. It is especially popular for fastening objects to the ceiling. For example, it can be used to mount a chandelier. To install it you will need to pre-drill a hole in the drywall. Thanks to its full opening, an even distribution of the load is organized over the entire area. Here is the sequence of installation of the dowel-umbrella:

The first step is to drill a hole in the plasterboard ceiling. The hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel itself. This is an important requirement, since at the time of fastening there is a risk of damaging the sheet.
Then you should screw the dowel into the drywall. This must be done carefully so that the last turn does not twist in the drywall.
At the next stage, the object itself is attached, and the resulting hole near the fastener can be covered with special putty. It is advisable if it is acrylic putty, as it has a rubber base, which will prevent cracking.

So, we have looked at the most common types of dowels that are used for fastening objects in drywall and more. If you want the item you are hanging to be held firmly, you should carefully select the fasteners. We welcome your comments. You may also know some other types of dowels that can be used to secure objects in drywall.

May 04

How to hammer a dowel nail firmly

Not long ago at work there was a rumor that the top tier of a kitchen unit had collapsed in one of the apartments. The damage caused to the owners amounted to a decent amount. Since, in addition to the set itself, the kitchen floor, lined with ceramic tiles, was damaged.

What is the reason for such an unfortunate development of events? The fact is that the walls of the apartment were made of a fairly soft material - foam block. And ordinary medium-sized dowel-nails were used as fasteners. As a result, they could not withstand the load placed on them and immediately fell out of the loose base. In fact, the kitchen set was supported by gypsum plaster.

It is very important to be able to drive a dowel-nail firmly. Not only the integrity of the structure being fixed depends on this, but also your safety!

Reliable fastening of dowels consists of two components. Firstly, this is the correct installation technology. Secondly, the correct choice of fasteners, depending on the material in which it is installed.

How to drive a dowel nail correctly

There are several nuances that you should never forget about during the work process.

When selecting a drill or drill for attaching a dowel, make sure that its diameter matches the required hole. The plastic part of the dowel must adhere firmly to the building material of which the wall is made.

In some cases, the drill is selected so that it has a slightly smaller diameter than required. When wedged with a metal part, it will hold firmly to the base.

Do not drill too deep a hole for fasteners. The optimal depth is the length of the dowel. Plus 1-2 mm, just in case, to reliably recess the plastic part of the fastener into the thickness of the wall. A hole that is too deep will create an unnecessary void, which can cause the dowel-nail to become loose in its socket.

While drilling a hole, hold the drill or hammer drill at a 90-degree angle to the wall surface. Stabilize the tool firmly while working and try not to tilt it in different directions. This will lead to a significant expansion of the hole and the dowel-nail will not hold firmly in it.

Once the hole is ready, do not rush to immediately hammer a dowel-nail into it. Be sure to remove any accumulated dust! It is most convenient to perform this operation using an ordinary vacuum cleaner. Do not attempt to blow out the hole yourself. This is quite inefficient. In addition, stone chips may accidentally get into your eyes.

How to hammer a dowel-nail into different bases

If the walls of your apartment are made of soft building material (foam block, cellular concrete), you need to use special fasteners. When screwed in, ordinary dowel-nails push the base in different directions. As a result, she cannot fully keep them in their nests.

One way to secure standard fasteners in such a wall is to use gypsum mortar to fill the voids between it and the base. The mixture is filled into the hole before the dowel-nail is driven into the wall.

However, we note that this is not the most correct installation method. It is resorted to only as a last resort. When you don’t have dowel nails at hand, specially designed for soft surfaces.

In soft walls or with voids, it is most convenient to fasten products that form a complete twist of the plastic part. They hold on very firmly and do not allow the fasteners to “walk” in the thickness of the wall.

How to hammer such a dowel-nail? Same as normal. First, insert the plastic part, and then tighten the metal part. This will automatically fold the dowel into a knot. Simple and convenient!

In contact with

What is a suspended ceiling? This is a structure consisting of a frame lined with a finishing coating. For example, plastic or wooden lining, plasterboard, metal panels.

By choosing the profession of a finisher, you have embarked on a slow but sure path to fabulous enrichment)). The income of construction workers often exceeds the wages of people in jackets and ties.

Often, the owners of a one-room apartment have the idea of remodeling it into a two-room apartment. The reasons that prompt them to take such a step can be very different: a growing family, the need to improve their living conditions.

The curtain rod is skewed, the kitchen cabinet is not hanging in the best way... The reason is that the dowels do not hold firmly in the wall. Such problems require urgent elimination.

Fastening with dowels has become commonplace in our time. Whether you need to hang a cabinet on the wall, tighten a cord for window curtains or fasten the sheathing - dowels of a wide variety of designs are at your service.

However, these fasteners do not always withstand the loads placed on them. Especially if we are talking about a fragile base, for example, from modern lightweight and porous materials. In these cases, under the influence of high loads, the dowels often fall out of the base.

You should immediately make a reservation: when moving the attachment point to another place (if the dowel fails at this point), you need to correctly select a new dowel and install it properly.

Eventually, the fallen dowel can be reattached in the same hole using quick-setting cement or plaster. But first you need to thoroughly clean the hole from stone chips and dust. The best way to do this is with a vacuum cleaner.

You should select a screw for the dowel that would not excessively expand it when screwing it in, and therefore the binder. In this case, the dowel will be held in the hardened mass, and not due to frictional locking.

Selection of dowels taking into account the base material

For fastening heavy objects or objects that create a high load to a porous or relatively weak base, for example, foamed concrete, ordinary plastic dowels are not suitable. In this case, the reason why dowels fall out of the walls is not so much the insufficient strength of the dowels themselves, but the strength of the base material, which cannot withstand the loads that arise when the dowels expand. Often similar cases are observed when attaching objects to masonry made of hollow materials.

In these conditions, it is necessary to select dowels correctly, taking into account the material of the walls. We can talk, in particular, about the so-called injection dowels. They are a combination of a fastening element (for example, a screw or bolt) with a mesh sleeve inserted into the hole and a cartridge of filler solution. The purpose of the mesh sleeve is to prevent the mortar from spreading into the wall cavity. A fastening element is inserted into the solution that has not yet hardened, which can also be a threaded bushing, in particular a plastic one.

How to hammer a nail?

It would seem that every self-respecting man should know the answer to this question.

But is everything really that simple, if every now and then you hear about split boards, falling off plaster, bent nails and injured fingers? Maybe there are still some rules, nuances and secrets for carrying out this “manipulation”? Let's try to figure it out.

Every nail has its own hammer

The most common carpenter's hammers come in four sizes:

MST-1 (handle - 25-28 centimeters, working part - 9 centimeters, weight - 250 grams) is intended for driving parcel and wallpaper nails (up to 40 millimeters long);
MST-2 (handle - 30-32 centimeters, working part - 11 centimeters, weight - 500 grams) is intended for driving larger fasteners. The most versatile tool;
MST-3 (handle - 30-32 centimeters, working part - 12 centimeters, weight - 800 grams) will cope with the same tasks as MST-2, it’s just heavier;
MST-4 (handle - 35-37 centimeters, working part - no more than 13 centimeters, weight - 1000 grams) is intended for driving large (over 80 millimeters long) nails, as well as dowel nails.

Of course, a wallpaper nail will fit nicely “into place” with the help of a fourth hammer, but it’s much more comfortable to work with a striking tool of adequate size for your purposes.

Basic secrets of hammering nails

Start driving with gentle movements; proceed to sharp blows only after you are sure that the nail enters correctly. Hold the hammer by the end of the handle, while making blows, try to concentrate your gaze on the head of the product. Remember, the fewer blows a nail gets, the better and more reliable it will hold. Three or four wrist and two or three solid elbows should be enough.
If you are working with wood, make sure that the diameter of the nail does not exceed a quarter of the thickness of the board. For a thin board, it would not be a bad idea to blunt the product - bite off the edge with pliers. The fibers will wrinkle and tear, but the wood will not subsequently split.
To firmly connect two boards, you need to select nails in such a way that they can completely “penetrate” the first and enter at least a third into the second. If you drive fasteners at an angle to each other, the strength of the structure will increase even more.
If necessary, lubricate the tip of the nail with wax or soap - the work will go like clockwork.
It is not recommended to hit a large number of nails on the same line in close proximity to each other - the board will crack.
For hanging joints, you can use a massive hammer as a support.
To prevent a long nail being driven into hardwood from bending, it should be held with pliers close to the head.
If there is a need to install fasteners close to the edge of the board, be sure to compact this place using a punch and a hammer.
A punch can help to thoroughly deepen a nail into almost any surface for plastering - just place it on the head of the product and hit it with a hammer. If you use only a hammer for these purposes, you will not be able to avoid dents in the area.
Before hammering a nail into a wallpapered wall, use a blade to make an X-shaped cut into the wallpaper. Carefully move the corners apart, install the fastener, and glue the corners.
Before nailing telephone wiring, you must first pierce it with nails - in the middle, carefully, so that they do not touch the cores.
Many craftsmen are often interested in how to hammer a nail by hand. It is impossible to drive a fastener into wood or concrete manually - this is obvious to any sane person. But in sand, earth or clay - very much so. The main thing is to be careful and perform manipulations confidently.
An ordinary clothespin can help a “newbie” to protect his fingers from being hit by a hammer.

Most often, the question of how to properly hammer a nail arises when working with hard-to-reach surface areas. For example, when you need to install fasteners in a recess. But you just need to arm yourself with a steel core and a metal tube and the problem will disappear. Take a look at the picture and see for yourself.

You can install a fastener in some treacherous nook using a nut and bolt:

Screw the nut onto the bolt a little;
place this “device” on the nail head;
hammer the nail into the head of the bolt.

When making crafts or repairing wooden furniture, you often have to turn to dowels - large wooden nails. It is, of course, unacceptable to hammer them in as “simple” as steel ones. First, drill a hole, drip glue into it, and only then drive the dowel.

How to hammer a dowel into a nail correctly?

In concrete:

mark the location for the hole with a hammer and center punch;
using a hammer drill, punch a hole of the required depth with a drill. Please note: on the surface of the drill there is a marking indicating the diameter - it must necessarily coincide with the marking of the dowel. The depth of the hole should exceed the length of the dowel by about 5 millimeters;

An impact drill for working with concrete can only be used if it is not possible to “get” a hammer drill.

remove any remaining dust with a vacuum cleaner;
using a hammer, deepen the dowel cartridge;
Drive the nail from the “kit” to the required depth, leaving a few millimeters from the head for hanging.

In brick:

determine the best location for the dowel, taking into account that this should be the center of the brick. The fact is that the support solution for the load is completely unreliable, so it’s better not to take risks;
It is advisable to drill the brick with an impact drill. Start carefully and slowly so as not to split the masonry. After overcoming the centimeter “barrier”, the rotation speed of the drill can be increased to normal;
remove dust and brick chips from the hole;
drive the cartridge and nail.

For tiles/ceramic tiles:

Determine the location of the dowel using a marker. This can be either the surface of the tile or the seam;
Mark the surface with a metal screw. Perform very light taps, going through no more than 0.5 millimeters of enamel;
Using an impact drill with a metal drill (diameter - 3 millimeters), drill through the entire thickness of the tile;
bring the hole to the required size;
drill the wall under the tiles according to the instructions for concrete or brick;
Carefully install the dowel nail.

In drywall:

Before hammering a nail into drywall, you should think carefully about whether you will thereby ruin the surface. If you plan to place a heavy load, then this material is not the best choice for support;
for lightweight objects, molly fasteners are suitable, designed specifically for bases with low load-bearing capacity;
make a hole of the required diameter in the surface;
tapping, insert the fastener into the hole until it stops;
screwdriver or hand tighten the screw.

That's all. Now you know how to drive a dowel nail and a regular nail correctly. Reliable designs to you! And watch your fingers!

They are increasingly used to solve professional and domestic problems. Hardware has its own characteristics, which will be discussed further in the article.

Design features of dowel-nail

The dowel-nail is used as. The hardware is a special nail and dowel. With its help, you can securely fix an object on a concrete surface, brick or stone wall, as well as other materials with high density. Some types are used for installing structures on chipboard or drywall.

The design of the fastening element is distinguished by its simplicity. The basis is a cylinder-shaped rod on which a spacer part is provided, as well as a standard nail. The spacer expands during installation, resulting in a reliable connection. If necessary, a cuff is used for the dowel-nail, which acts as a limiter. This detail prevents it from falling into the prepared hole. The shape of the cuff is different, and can be either hidden or cylindrical.

Manufacturers also provide hardware equipped with a slot on the head of the structure and a metric thread. For easy installation, you can use a screwdriver. Installing such a dowel-nail is not difficult even for a beginner due to the “smoothing” of the threaded part. In this case, the thread at first glance does not differ from the standard one and is directed towards the head.

For the production of dowels, polyethylene, polypropylene or polyamide are used. Fasteners such as dowel-nails are made from alloys coated with zinc for protection using galvanic treatment. There are also options without additional coverage. The minimum dowel diameter varies from 5 to 10 mm, the maximum length reaches 160 mm.

Application of dowel-nails for concrete and brick

In order to install the structure on a brick surface, you need the following:

a suitable installation location is selected (most often this is the central part of the brick);
a hole is prepared using an impact drill; it is recommended to be careful to ensure the integrity of the masonry;
crumbs and construction dust are removed from the hole with a vacuum cleaner;
The hardware is driven into the brick using a hammer.

The installation algorithm for concrete surfaces is as follows:

the hole is marked using a center punch and a hammer;
a hammer drill prepares a hole of the appropriate depth (pay attention to the fastener markings, it must match the parameters of the drill);
the hole is cleared of dirt and dust;
The hardware cartridge is driven in with a hammer;
a nail is installed, and it is recommended to leave about 3 mm of free space on the surface so that the object can be hung.

Using hardware for drywall, ceramics or tiles

Before installing the dowel-nail, pay attention to the weight of the structure that will be fixed. If it is high enough, the hardware is not suitable, since the plasterboard base will be destroyed. If the weight of the item is small, the procedure is performed in several simple steps:

preparing the hole according to the section;
the fastening element is installed in the hole;
The screw is tightened using a screwdriver or screwdriver.

When installing the dowel-nail on tiles or ceramic tiles, be careful, since the material is easily destroyed due to its fragility. The installation process is as follows:

It is necessary to mark with a marker the place where the hardware will be installed;
A hole of about 0.5 mm is made with a self-tapping screw, then an impact drill is used.

Please note that you also need to prepare a corresponding hole under the tile, and then install the dowel-nail according to the instructions.

Installation using a construction gun

All of the listed options for installing a dowel-nail assume that the main part will be driven into the outer part. But there is another way to install hardware, which involves using a construction gun. The device allows you to quickly secure the structure without unnecessary actions.

In this case, special fasteners are used for installation, which in most cases do not have a dowel. A small washer is provided on the nail, so that the hardware adheres tightly to a solid base. As a result, after installing the fastener using a gun, the washer located at the end moves towards the head, which ensures a strong fixation.

This method is used for installing metal structures to various bases made of solid materials, mainly concrete, steel alloys, brick or stone. For example, for installing canopies on building balconies. The length of nails with washer varies from 30 to 80 mm, while the cross-section can be 4.5 or 3.7 mm. Durable steel is used for manufacturing and galvanizing treatment is provided. In some cases, there are hardware with a cross-section of more than 4.5 mm.

As you can see, there are no difficulties with using dowel nails. The main thing is to choose the right type of hardware, since they have different types of construction and, accordingly, differ in their purpose.

If you do not know which option is suitable for your purposes, contact the consultants at the hardware store where you will purchase fasteners. Experts will tell you exactly what is best to use for certain materials.

How does a dowel nail work? Dowels for fastening, which dowel-nails to use