How to plant homemade hydrangea. Hydrangea in a pot

Hydrangea, which blooms with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Caring for and growing home varieties, of course, differs from cultivating hydrangea in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas indoors.

Beauty who loves water

The Latin name for hydrangea, hydrangea, literally translates as “water vessel.” This name was not given to this plant in vain: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves in the winter and goes into retirement.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrubby;
some species are frost-resistant;
garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and liana-shaped ones even up to thirty;
Hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can reach a size of up to 1.5 meters. New varieties for indoor cultivation usually have a height of 50 to 100 cm.

Hydrangea leaves are jagged, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10–15 cm in length. They turn red in autumn and fall off by winter;
inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be plain, of different colors or change as they develop and depending on the acidity of the soil;
inside the sepals there are small petals;
flowers can be sterile or fertile. The seeds are very small;
the shape of flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
sepals of different types and varieties have a variety of shapes and can be double;
Hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
The number of inflorescences on a hydrangea increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will definitely delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, and the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color depending on the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on shrunken, excess shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been developed in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both last and this year. These are called remontants.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species are native to Russia's Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate intense heat, so it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high air humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of paniculata and tree hydrangea are used for medicinal purposes and various medicinal preparations are made from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's look at a few of the most popular ones, dividing them into color categories.

Light

Sister Therese (Soeur Therese):

inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint change color to greenish-pink towards the end of flowering;
blooms until September on last year's shoots;
dense, spreading shrub.

Madame Emile Mouillere:

inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then acquire light pink or light blue shades;
blooms profusely on shoots of last and this year until October;
leaves are narrower than other varieties.

Blue

Early Blue:

inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues initially have a greenish color;
blooms profusely until October on shoots of the previous and current year;
has a strong root system and compact bush.

Nikko Blue:

inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
the inflorescences are bright blue; to maintain the color, an acidic soil reaction of 5.5–7.0 pH is required;
abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
fast-growing medium-sized shrub.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
pink-crimson inflorescences with a white edge, which turns green over time;
compact bush.

Miss Saori:

inflorescence diameter 18 cm;
inflorescences are matte white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
blooms until September on shoots of the current and previous year;
dark green foliage has a purple tint.

You and my love (You&me Love):

stem height 100 cm;
blooms continuously from May to September;
in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in acidic, with a high content of aluminum - in blue;
leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
frost resistance -29 o C.

Reds

Admiration:

inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
flowers are bright red;
abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
the bush has a dense crown.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
compact bush.

Hot Red:

inflorescence diameter 15 cm;
red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
blooms until October on last year's shoots;
The bush is lush and does not die from massive inflorescences.

Schloss Wackerbarth:

inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
pink inflorescences with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
flowering on last year's shoots until October-early November;
flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety

Beginning gardeners often look for the “hydrangea mix” variety. You should know that there is no such variety; this phrase refers to multi-colored hydrangeas in a composition or in a store’s assortment.

Potted hydrangeas grown at home in the photo

The hydrangea plant got its name in honor of a princess of the Roman Empire named Hortensia.
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago. Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on a home windowsill. At home, hydrangea does not have to be kept on the window; it is a shade-tolerant plant. In the West, hydrangea is called French, since they learned about this plant after the first French expedition around the world. There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea. The owner of this hydrangea is clearly an original.

Caring for hydrangea at home

If the color of the sun is too bright, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, it should be placed on east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from a window, especially from the south. For flowering, diffused light is sufficient for hydrangea.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

Hydrangea feels best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then ventilate the room regularly, and in case of high temperatures, place it on northern windows.

Try to take hydrangeas out into the fresh air more often

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, as well as drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

it is necessary to spray hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry, hot weather;
in hot weather, be sure to place vessels with water nearby;
A good option for moisturizing: place the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition when growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as excess lime has a negative effect on the plant. To do this, you can boil the tap water, wait until sediment accumulates at the bottom, and drain clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use pine litter or crushed pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

pine litter;
crushed pine bark;
pine sawdust;
high peat;
sphagnum moss.

In autumn, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only so as not to dry out the earthen ball and the roots of the plant. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water; it requires good drainage.

Once or twice a month during watering it is necessary to acidify the soil. You can use lemon juice and citric acid for this.

juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
citric acid consumption: powder on the tip of a knife per liter of water.

Hydrangea should be fed from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Granular nitrogen fertilizers are dissolved in warm water and watered the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

It is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia) for spraying; this will also be an additional prevention of pests. You can also water the plant with it. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of soil acidity and alkalinity change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, there are special fertilizers for this.

Other methods can be used: adding aluminum sulfate or light liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, making sure to control the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral; if it is lower, the soil is acidic; if it is higher, the soil is alkaline.

acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content supports blue, blue and violet shades of inflorescences;
neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6–7) supports light, white colors;
more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content produces pink and red colors.

The optimal acidity for hydrangeas is between 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate highly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a highly alkaline soil reaction, hydrangea cannot absorb iron; it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
highly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by pine litter, pine bark, high peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity is maintained by the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after application. If it does not reach the required value, the application should be repeated.

Red inflorescences can be “repainted” in lilac and purple shades, or change from pink to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not come into contact with leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

To change the color pink to blue, red to violet-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
We change the blue color to pink, stopping fertilizing with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: dig 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly into the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7–8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1–2 tablespoons). When watering, add potassium permanganate to the water 1–2 times a month: 5–7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect immediate changes. The color may begin to change only from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: do's and don'ts

If the variety grows slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the hydrangea grows quickly, then it will have to be pruned more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so they cannot be cut off. You can trim shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting) or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea produces an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers; they stand in water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give birth to new plants.

Faded inflorescences are cut off as they dry above the topmost bud.

Principles of pruning hydrangea:

if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be trimmed;
On hydrangeas, old, thickened and small shoots are pruned;
shoots for thinning are pruned in the spring, but diseased and dry shoots can be pruned in the fall;
Do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

How to prune hydrangea:

Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp, sterile scissors or pruners.
Treat the sections with turmeric, brilliant green or activated carbon powder.
You can water the hydrangea a day after pruning, when the cuts have dried out a little.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.

Rest period

At the beginning of leaf fall, to prevent the roots from rotting, reduce watering of the hydrangea. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet store-bought soil when you first open the package.

After dropping the hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure a temperature of less than 10 o C.

Hydrangea overwinters best at a temperature of +5–8 o C. Therefore, the best option is to take the pot with the plant to a dry basement. We must remember to water the soil little by little at this time to prevent the death of the root system.

If you do not have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She doesn't need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, hydrangea needs to be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Season	Lighting	Watering	Temperature	Humidity	Feeding	Acidity
Spring Summer	Scattered light	Abundant, soil should always be moist	+17–22 °С	50–60%, spraying in the morning with warm soft water	2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas, azaleas, or flowering plants	Acidify the water when watering 1-2 times a month: 5 drops of lemon juice or citric acid on the tip of a knife per 1 liter of water
Autumn. Dropping leaves	Scattered light	Moderate, declines in winter	+9–12 °С	Not less than 50%	Don't fertilize	Acidify water 1-2 times a month
Winter. Quiet time	Can be kept without light	Very moderate, just so as not to dry out the soil and roots	+5–8 °С	Low	Don't fertilize	Watering with water without acid

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakened immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases and be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangea:

if hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, powdery mildew (a fungal disease) may form on the plant;
in very dry and hot weather (more than +27 o C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
in extreme heat (more than +30 o C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
on alkaline soils (excess lime, pH value more than 8), hydrangea develops chlorosis - yellowing of leaves;
if there is insufficient air and soil humidity, hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, and the roots may dry out;
With poor drainage and excessive watering, the roots begin to rot, and as a result, fungal diseases form.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solutions

Problem	Cause	Solution
Flowers and shoots wither	Roots are flooded or there are gnawing pests in the soil	If there is no drainage, an urgent replanting of the plant with replacement of the soil is necessary: Check the roots and trim off rotten ones if necessary. Treat with Fitosporin or other fungicide. Dry the roots without watering for several days. Then water according to the usual pattern. If the hydrangea has not been watered, check the soil for the presence of pests (they are clearly visible in the soil after watering). Treat the soil with Grom-2.
The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The leaf itself is yellow, the veins are green, then it dries	Chlorosis - from excess lime in the soil, too bright light and lack of iron in the soil.	Move the plant to diffused light, you can even remove it from the windowsill. Measure the acidity of the soil; if it is above 8 Ph, it needs to be replaced. Do not water hydrangea with hard water with too much lime. Feed the plant with iron chelate: dissolve 4 grams of iron sulfate in a liter of filtered (or distilled) warm water, add 2.5 grams of citric acid
The leaves are drying at the edges	Lack of moisture	Ensure timely watering, spray the plant in the morning with warm boiled water without sediment
Spots appear on the leaves. A whitish coating on the leaves, then holes form in place of the spots and plaque	Fungal or bacterial disease. Whitish coating - powdery mildew	Treat with a fungicide (for example, Chisloflor + Fitolavin) in three doses every week. Check whether the maintenance conditions comply with the necessary standards: temperature, humidity, watering, lighting. Feed with complex fertilizer
Hydrangea doesn't bloom	The plant did not have a period of winter dormancy. Temperature too high	Place the hydrangea in the coolest, least sunny location. Spray with the addition of an immunostimulant (Epin, Zircon) and feed with fertilizer with phosphorus: 2g Superphosphate per 1 liter of water. 7-8 drops of Epin are enough for 1 liter
Hydrangea doesn't bloom	Too spacious container for roots	Repot in a smaller pot that matches the size of the root system.
The trunk began to turn black at the bottom	Black leg - rot from stagnation of water + low temperatures	Take healthy cuttings and root to preserve the variety. Check the root system and soil. If there are healthy roots, then the plant can be saved. Remove anything blackened and rotten and replace the soil. Treat the plant, especially the roots, with Fitosporin (paste) and an immunostimulant. For 1 liter of water, paste on the tip of a teaspoon and 7-8 drops of stimulant. Spray the leaves and shoots with nitrogen fertilizer + Fitosporin + green soap: half a teaspoon of ammonia + paste on the tip of a teaspoon + a teaspoon of green soap per 1 liter of water. Additionally, treat with Metronidazole (Trichopol), alternating products: 1 tablet per liter of water. Carry out treatments 2 times a week
Shoots dry out and break	The root system is overdried	To wet the earthen ball, pour the earth in several stages. Trim off dried shoots. Do not allow the soil to dry out and spray the plant. Do not drain the water from the pan; pour gravel, expanded clay or coarse perlite into it and add water when it dries.
There are growths on the leaves, white “fluff”, cobwebs	Presence of pests: growths - scale insects; white “fluff” - mealybug; cobwebs - mite	Treat with a comprehensive pest control product. Scale insects and scale insects must first be cleaned off, then the plant must be sprayed with the preparation
Leaves have holes, flower buds wither and fall off, leaves and shoots wither	Pests: weevil, aphid	Treat with a pest control product. For example, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin
There are visible passages from microworms on the leaves.	The soil is infected with nematodes	Treat the soil and leaves with Nematophagin. It is advisable to replace the soil (after replanting, treat it two or three times for prevention)
The leaves have circular or multi-colored spots. Leaves wither and become deformed	Viral disease	Insects are carriers of viruses. Check the flower for their presence, remove the affected parts of the plant. Treat the soil and plant for two months 2 times a week with the following composition: Phytolavin on the tip of a teaspoon + 8 drops of Epin + one dose of ExtraFlorN1 + Boric acid on the tip of a knife per 1 liter of water. First, dilute boric acid - it is diluted only in water with a temperature of more than 40 o C. This complex is antiviral, pest repellent, fungicidal and immunostimulating. The plant must be kept in quarantine separately from others; if there are no signs of cure, it will have to be destroyed, the soil thrown away, and the pot treated with boiling water.

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-product based on beneficial bacteria to the soil when watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: choosing soil, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in every soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, acidic and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: turf soil 2 parts, pine litter 1 part, peat 1 part, crushed pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, and conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in a swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1-2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots completely fill the space, then transplant the plant into a slightly larger pot. The roots of hydrangea grow shallow but dense.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

new pot;
land;
drainage;
mulch: pine litter, crushed pine bark, pine sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until slightly pink (for irrigation);
spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
When replanting, the soil is not dried out; part of the soil remains on the roots;
After planting, the soil must be compacted so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
When planting, the roots should be straightened down and not bent;
After replanting, some leaves of the hydrangea may fall off - this is normal.

Planting stages

We take the plant out of the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

We shake off excess soil from the roots and inspect them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

Pour drainage and a little soil into the bottom of the pot, place the hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with soil 2-3 cm above the root collar.
We compact the earth, add more soil if necessary and water it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
Place a 1–1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing potted hydrangea

Reproduction of indoor hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing the bush or seeds. The simplest and most effective way is cuttings. Hydrangea propagated in this way blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings occurs easily both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be done from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For cuttings you need to prepare:

sterile pruning shears;
drug Kornevin;
substrate for planting (clean sand or infertile soil);
small low pot;
shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
spray bottle with warm water;
turmeric or charcoal powder for processing cuts.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step cutting process:

Cut off the selected green cutting.
We make a cut under the lower bud.
We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.
Cut off excess lower leaves.
Trim the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation
We dip the lower cut in Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting at a slight angle into a dry substrate of 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil or each other.
We wet the substrate generously from a spray bottle with warm water.
We dust the cuts with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and place them in a shady, cool place for a month.

it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
the optimal temperature for rooting is +18–25 o C;
a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
by winter, the cuttings are prepared for dormancy, like ordinary hydrangeas;
in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June once a week;
in May next year after planting, the cuttings can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea from cuttings

Option with rooting in water

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add the drug Methylene blue (sold in the aquarium departments of pet stores). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to tint the water a little to a blue tint.

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We place the cuttings in water until roots form and plant them in the ground after the roots have grown a little.

Roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To divide a bush:

take the hydrangea out of the pot;
shake off excess soil;
Check the roots and cut off the dried ones if necessary.
we look for a suitable place for division and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
We plant the cuttings according to the usual pattern.

Propagation by seeds

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture of: 4 parts leaf soil, 2 parts peat, 1 part sand, 1 part humus;
You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination, you can add Epin to the water you use from a spray bottle to moisten the soil: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

We sow the seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
Sprinkle quite a bit (!) of sand on top. Wet it from a spray bottle and cover it with glass or other transparent lid.
Place in a warm, bright place (+18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
We monitor the humidity and regularly spray the substrate.
We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

The seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When the young plants have five leaves, they need to be replanted.

Small sprouts need to be fed with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer (watered or sprayed) 2 times a month.

Fertilizer composition: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for hydrangea is quite difficult, it is completely worth it when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with hydrangea in either the size or brightness of the inflorescences.

Hydrangea is one of eighty representatives of the species of flowering plants of the Hydrangeaceae family. The natural habitat for this plant is a fairly vast territory: North and South America, eastern and southern Asia. From which it follows that there are an indescribable number of different species, for example, the jasmine hydrangea, which arrived in Europe from Asia and inherited a dependence on a humid climate and plenty of light. But climbing hydrangea and large-leaf hydrangea are descendants of South American flowers, which are less prone to depend on a constant humid climate, but tolerate excessive sunlight much worse.

And even more subspecies, for example, Vanilla Fraze hydrangea with soft pink petals and a light creamy tint of inflorescences, Grandiflora hydrangea with magnificent beige and white flowers of quite large sizes, Nikko Blue hydrangea with mesmerizing blue and light blue inflorescences.

It is worth mentioning that, despite the vast distribution area, this flower is a whimsical and demanding plant; caring for home hydrangea will require endurance and compliance with a number of requirements. The merit of “domestication” is the painstaking work of European botanists and breeders of the 19th century. It was since then that the opportunity arose to use hydrangea as one of the many living elements of decorating a living space.

Today, there are more than 100 species in a pot that can grow and bloom at home. Each is unique and attractive in its own way. The color palette of hydrangea is indescribably diverse. There are inflorescences of white, red, blue and pink flowers with all sorts of shades and undertones. Based on the preferred color of the inflorescence, the varieties and slightly different care features will change.

Note that caring for indoor hydrangea, caring for tree hydrangea or caring for large-leaved hydrangea may differ from each other due to some characteristics of the origin of the plants. This article provides general recommendations.

First of all, you should strictly and carefully observe the flower’s life cycle depending on the time of year and, in accordance with this, correctly adjust watering, temperature, fertilizing and light conditions. Particular attention should be paid to the flower during the formation of buds and the cold season. She is spectacular and beautiful, but at the same time capricious and whimsical, like a princess.

Lighting and ventilation at home

For flowers located indoors, it is very important to find the “golden” line between deficiency and excess of scorching sunlight and other light sources. If you need to achieve lush flowering and longevity of the plant, you should find a well-lit place, since hydrangea requires a lot of light. However, you should not rush to empty the window sill on the south side of the house. After all, direct sunlight on leaves is more harmful than beneficial. The ideal solution would be to place the flower pot a few meters from a south-facing window. In a place where good lighting prevails most of the day. If the windows in the house are oriented to the north or west, or for some reason there is not enough light in the living room, it is quite possible to place the hydrangea on the windowsill, and in particularly difficult situations, create artificial lighting from fluorescent lamps.

Hydrangea does not tolerate mustiness very well, so it is strongly recommended to ventilate the room with the plant at least once a day. In the warm season, it is advisable to move the hydrangea to a loggia, balcony or garden in a place where there is no direct sunlight.

Temperature regime for the plant

For lush flowering, as well as a long life, hydrangeas require a room and maintenance conditions in which the external air temperature does not exceed +22C. If it is unacceptably high, the flower will begin to shed its leaves, become shriveled, and may ultimately die.

It is also necessary to maintain fairly high air humidity, thanks to which the plant will develop and bloom with bright and colorful flowers. Sudden temperature changes and drafts also have an adverse effect, which can affect the rhythm of life for the worse.

Approximately from the end of autumn to February (depending on individual development conditions and the type of flower), the wintering period of hydrangea begins. At this time of year, it is advisable to move the plant into a room with a temperature close to +8 C, trim it by about three-fifths and, in the case of an open space (garden, balcony), carefully wrap it in woven material. In February, the plant will awaken, and it will be necessary to move the flower to a warmer room.

Watering and fertilizing the crop

This plant is very moisture-loving. In the spring, when hydrangea is after winter and cold weather, it is recommended to gradually increase the amount of water for watering. Do not suddenly flood the plant; the flower does not need additional feeding during this period.

In summer, hydrangeas need a large amount of water. This is especially true for such a moisture-dependent flower as large-leaved hydrangea: planting and caring for which initially requires a fairly damp place and abundantly watered soil. You need to carefully ensure that the soil around the flower is not dry. Also, do not abuse the plant’s love for water and create a swamp. It is optimal to water the plant as the top layer of soil in the pot dries slightly. This ensures the required amount of liquid. Closer to autumn, the amount of water spent on irrigation should be systematically reduced (do not sharply limit or sharply increase the amount of liquid supplied to the flower).

During the wintering period, you should only make sure that the soil does not dry out and does not turn into a dry earthen lump. It is recommended to limit the air humidity around the plant during the cold season.

The water that will be used to water the hydrangea should be soft and settled, preferably at room temperature where the plant is located. In the summer, you can add a small amount of lemon juice to the water for irrigation (about 5-7 drops per 1 liter of liquid). This will prevent the foliage from yellowing and provide a contrasting green color to the chloroplasts. The exception is caring for Anabel hydrangea and caring for petiole hydrangea; for them and flowers with white and cream inflorescences, the presence of acidic water can be destructive and can disrupt the flowering cycle. For this species, soft, settled water at room temperature is acceptable.

Feeding is carried out, as a rule, in the warm months of the year (May - August). Twice a week, water the soil near the plant with a solution of 3 g of potassium sulfate, 4 g of superphosphate, 3 g of ammonium nitrate per liter of liquid. From mid-August, fertilizing must be stopped. Since it is during this period that flower buds will be formed due to the cessation of vegetative growth of the plant. And it will be necessary to remove weak shoots and root shoots.

Replanting is the key to the beauty and longevity of hydrangeas

For longevity and abundant beautiful flowering, hydrangea will need to be replanted annually.

It is desirable that the soil consist of sand, leaf soil and turf in proportions of 1: 3: 3. You can also use the following composition: sand, peat, leaf soil and turf soil in a ratio of 0.5:1:1:2. Humus, contrary to existing opinion, is not recommended to be used.

An interesting fact is one property of this plant. If the soil is acidic, it will cause blue or pale blue flowers to bloom. In the case of acid-neutral soil, the flowers acquire shades of white and beige during the flowering period. Alkaline soil is acceptable for those who want red or pink flowers. However, for lush flowering, care requires regular feeding of the soil with slightly acidic water. This care for hydrangea is especially relevant in the spring, when it gains strength after hibernation.

When choosing a pot, you should take into account the structure of the hydrangea’s root system, which, due to its growth, requires a large horizontal space. In other words, the pot should be open and wide. It is advisable that the new pot be one and a half to two times larger in volume than the old one.

The transplant itself, to minimize possible damage to the root system, is carried out by transferring the plant. A thick (approximately 15 mm) drainage layer is required. Next comes a layer of earthen mixture, the composition of which is specified above. Next comes the arrangement of the flower itself, followed by its arrangement. An earthen substrate is poured around the perimeter. It is important that the root collar is level with the soil surface. Upon completion of the transplant, the hydrangea must be watered generously. By covering the top layer of soil with peat mulch, you can maintain soil moisture for a longer period. Let us note that planting and propagating hydrangeas are indivisible concepts, and the longevity of future shoots of the plant depends on the care and quality of their implementation.

Propagation of home hydrangea

It is important for a plant such as hydrangea: care and propagation, which is possible in two ways (seeds and cuttings).

In the first case, hydrangea propagation: planting with seeds and care occurs during the end of wintering of the plant. Fresh seeds are planted in specially fabricated and prepared soil, consisting of leaf and turf soil, as well as humus in equal proportions. There is no need to dig or plant them deep into the soil; it will be enough to sow along the surface of the soil and create a kind of closed ecosystem by covering the surface of the pot with young seeds with glass. Mandatory conditions are the presence of light, low but constant soil moisture and the absence of sudden changes in temperature. When young shoots appear, the glass should be removed. As soon as the shoots get a little stronger and send out the first leaves, they can be safely transplanted into a regular pot with an approximate diameter of 60-80 cm.

Propagation by cuttings is acceptable for more experienced florists; it is more complex and requires some experience. However, in turn it is crowned with great chances of success.

For cuttings, the ideal period is the end of February - the beginning of March. For this procedure, young shoots are selected and cut to a length of 6–8 cm. Moreover, you need to ensure that each shoot has up to three internodes. Conventionally, it is necessary to divide each cutting into three parts, the leaves from the upper third should be shortened by half, and the leaves from the lower part should be removed completely. After which it is strongly recommended to treat it with a root stimulant (for example, “Kornevin”) and plant it in sandy or sandy-peaty soil, water it and cover it with a glass jar. This will create a favorable closed ecosystem, provide a favorable climate and humidity and prevent the soil from drying out. The optimal temperature for cuttings is +20 C. In about a month they will take root and can be planted in separate pots.

Diseases and pests of crops

Hydrangea is a very demanding plant and rarely “forgives” neglect of its optimal conditions. As a result, it may turn yellow, the foliage will fall off or become stained, which indicates a lack of moisture and/or exposure to direct sunlight. It may also rot or stop blooming, which in turn could indicate an excess of liquid in the soil and/or a lack of fertilizing. However, in addition to this, hydrangea, like most indoor plants, is prone to a number of diseases, such as chlorosis, gray rot or powdery mildew.

Chlorosis is a disease of the chloroplasts in foliage. As a result, the flower turns yellow and may subsequently fall off. To prevent chlorosis, iron sulfate (approximately 8-12 grams per liter of liquid) or iron sulfate (2 grams per liter) is added to the water used for irrigation.

Gray rot can be dealt with using Borodos liquid. For powdery mildew use a mixture of 15 g. copper sulfate and 150 gr. green soap diluted in a liter of water. The plant should be treated with this solution.

Features of garden hydrangea

Caring for a flower in the garden differs from maintaining an indoor “relative”. And moreover, there are differences between different types of garden hydrangea, which are more dependent on the abundance of moisture and a favorable climate that cannot be created artificially, as indoors or at home.

For example, garden paniculata hydrangea: planting and care for which should be approximately as follows. Shaded location, abundant watering in warm months, it is advisable to plant in a humid climate, does not tolerate proximity to shrubs from the “spirea” and “dilphinium” families.

These rules for large-leaved hydrangea are slightly different: planting and care require a well-lit and open place without close proximity to other bushes and flowers (however, you should not plant it in the center of the garden in the open sun), as well as not only abundant watering of the soil, but frequent spraying leaves and flowers. It is worth monitoring the color of the foliage more carefully, since large-leaved garden hydrangea is more prone to chlorosis.

The rules that petiole hydrangea is subject to: planting and care are very similar to the conditions for the development of paniculate hydrangea, except that petiole hydrangea is not so whimsical towards neighbors in the flowerbed. In general, any flower loves space and moisture, needs moderate warmth and does not survive direct sunlight well.

Conclusions about growing hydrangea

Summarizing the above tips, let’s make a small footnote regarding what care for hydrangeas at home should be so that the plant does not need anything and blooms and develops profusely.

For hydrangea: care and cultivation must be strictly dependent on the time of year; the speed of growth and development of inflorescences may depend on this. You should avoid dark and musty places and remember that home hydrangea does not like direct sunlight. Optimal temperature conditions: summer up to +22 C, spring and autumn from +12 C to +15 C, winter from +6 C to +8 C

In the hot season, the soil should be moistened abundantly, but you should ensure that the top layer has time to dry out between waterings; as cold weather approaches, watering is reduced to a minimum. Do not forget about the softness and acidity of the irrigation liquid.

The air should be humid for almost the entire period of the year, with the exception of the wintering period. Do not neglect high-quality and timely feeding of the plant during the warm months of the year. Timely treatment and care of the plant will help to avoid serious problems and live a long life for hydrangeas, rewarding the surrounding world with beautiful flowers.

Hydrangea (or indoor hydrangia) is a beautiful flower that fits wonderfully into any landscape design. But hydrangea can also grow on your windowsill in a pot at home. Sphere-like flowers will certainly have a beneficial effect on your mood and the atmosphere in your home. Indoor hydrangea is a perennial subshrub with ovoid leaves up to 15 cm. The flowers are large, round, up to 35 cm in diameter. At home it can grow up to a meter. The color of hydrangea can be white, pink, blue, but there are also different hybrid color variations - green, even purple.

This beautiful plant is native to the Azores Islands, so it will require a lot of heat and moisture when growing hydrangia. Indoor hydrangeas are slightly different in size from outdoor ones, but with proper and high-quality care you can get beautiful large spheres of flowers.

Is it possible to grow hydrangea at home?

There is an opinion that it is very difficult to care for and grow hydrangea at home, but this is not so. You just need to follow certain rules for caring for this flower. And no matter how much effort is spent, the way a hydrangea blooms in a pot is worth the effort and skill.

Did you know? The color of a hydrangea depends not only on its type, but also on the acidity of the soil.

What does hydrangea like, lighting and temperature?

Indoor hydrangea is practically no different from its companion, garden hydrangea. There is no need to be afraid to grow such a beautiful plant, it is not difficult at all. Caring for a hydrangea that grows in a pot is almost no different from caring for the garden variety of this plant.

Hydrangea is a big lover of light, but on hot summer days it is better not to overdo it with sunbathing, but to move the flower to a more shaded place. Illuminated partial shade is perfect for her. But at the end of winter, when the buds begin to set, place the hydrangea in the sunniest place. Hydrangia prefers comfort. The optimal temperature for its growth and development is +20°C.

Hydrangeas have a dormant period when their leaves fall and they begin to recuperate for the next bloom. During this period, you need to place the flower pot in a cool place (+7-10°C) until the first buds appear. Then you need to return it to its usual place. Also, hydrangea categorically does not accept drafts and temperature changes.

Important! If you do not follow the conditions for caring for the hydrangea during its dormancy, it will bloom only after a year.

How to plant and when to transplant a flower

For planting hydrangeas, cuttings are most often used, since propagation by seeds is not very popular (long, difficult), this type of planting can be used if the plant variety is very rare and unique. Cuttings are selected from the root shoots of an adult plant. They should have leaves, but not flowering ones.

Selecting soil, preparing seedlings

When choosing soil for planting hydrangea, you should consider its color. If the plant has blue flowers, then it prefers acidic soil; if it has pink or white flowers, then it needs soil with a low acidity level.

You can prepare the soil yourself or choose it in a specialized store. The easiest and most convenient way in the modern world is to buy ready-made soil at a flower shop. For example, suitable soils: “Azalea”, “Begonia”, you can ask the seller for advice. To make the soil yourself, you will need turf soil and leaf soil - 3 parts each, sand - 2 parts and peat - 1 part. This will make a wonderful mixture for your hydrangea.

Planting rules, how to choose a flower pot

In order to plant the plant, you will need a cutting, which you can cut from an older bush. It needs to be planted in a pot approximately 10 cm in diameter. You cannot plant the plant immediately in a large pot, as active growth of roots and lush foliage will begin, but flowers will appear quite rarely.

Interesting fact! Unlike garden hydrangea, home hydrangea blooms only in the second year after planting.

When is a plant transplant needed and how to do it

As a houseplant, hydrangea rarely needs to be replanted. As a rule, hydrangea is replanted every year, since the soil is depleted and does not allow the plant to develop and feed normally. When replanting a plant, you need to increase the diameter of the pot by 2-3 cm.

Important! When transplanting, do not forget about drainage.

To transplant hydrangeas you will need polyethylene or newspaper. You place a pot with a flower on them and carefully, taking it by the base, tilt the pot and take out the hydrangea with soil. In a new, pre-prepared pot, pour 3-4 cm of drainage, fill halfway with soil, lower the hydrangea and sprinkle the roots with soil.

Important! You cannot fill the transplanted hydrangea above the usual level (as in the previous pot).

After transplanting, we spray the hydrangea with water, and full watering can be done the next day. The optimal period for transplantation is early spring.

When the plant reaches such a size that you can no longer find a pot for it, then a separation and rejuvenation procedure is carried out.

Watering and fertilizing hydrangia

Nuances of watering

You already know very well that hydrangea is a flower of water. She needs to drink up to a liter of clean water per week. In this case, the water should be soft, since lime in the water can lead to chlorosis of the leaves.

The ideal option would be rainwater, but in the city it is difficult to collect the required quantities. Therefore, for irrigation, it is advisable to filter the water or add lemon juice or vinegar.

If you are still afraid of leaf chlorosis in the plant, then add iron salts to the soil; this kind of mixture can be found in any flower shop.

Interesting fact! During growthand floweringplants need abundant watering, but in winter it practically stops.

How to properly fertilize a plant

During the growth period, the plant, and especially when the first buds and flowers appear, needs not only regular watering, but also fertilizer. Every 2 weeks you need to water the hydrangea with complex fertilizer to maintain the strength of the growing flower. Dissolve dry fertilizer in well-settled water (2 g per liter of liquid) and water it under the root with this solution, being careful not to get it on the leaves and flowers.

Caring for hydrangea at home, how to prune correctly

Caring for hydrangea is not limited to just watering and fertilizing. You already know how to care for a homemade hydrangea that grows in a pot, but There is another big nuance - pruning the plant. It is important for a flower to grow and rejuvenate. Pruning is the most effective and efficient way of such rejuvenation. It should become an invariable part of caring not only for hydrangea, but also for other types of plants. Hydrangea pruning is carried out in early spring.

Spring pruning can be considered preventive, as it allows you to remove weak shoots and make way for stronger and more resilient ones. You can also shorten shoots that have become too elongated during the dormant period and are now interfering with the overall growth of the plant. The flowers that hydrangea produces, like the cuttings and leaves, require pruning and they also need to be cared for.

The second pruning of hydrangea is done in the fall, after the last flowering. It is considered the largest, since almost all shoots are cut off, except for the strongest and leading ones. You also need to trim the top of the plant so that additional shoots will grow in the future and form a bush.

When growing a plant, we must think about pests, diseases and other harmful consequences. House plants, unlike garden plants, are not so susceptible to various pathogenic bacteria and organisms, but they can also be affected by them.

Hydrangia is no exception in this case. Various factors can influence her health:

the leaves turned yellow– check the acidity of the soil, most likely it has decreased;
The tips of the leaves began to dry out– the room is dry and there is not enough moisture for the hydrangea (brown spots may also appear);
if light spots appear on the leaves– excess sunlight, needs to be moved to the shade;
if you notice that hydrangea stopped growing, then it needs to be fed with mineral and organic fertilizers;

The main pests of hydrangea are spider mites, mealyworms and thrips.

Hydrangea propagation

The optimal and convenient options for propagating hydrangea are cuttings and dividing its bush.

Cuttings

Cuttings are the fastest and relatively easy way to get a beautiful flowering plant in the future.

It's easy to do: take a very sharp knife, cut off the stalk (up to 10 cm). You need to treat this cutting with a root formation stimulator purchased in advance. We take a pot that will be the home for the future plant, fill it 2/3 with a special soil mixture and plant the cutting in it so that it holds tightly.

We place this pot with the cuttings in a place where it will not be exposed to direct sunlight (with the exception of the winter months). The future flower should be sprayed with a light solution of potassium permanganate.

The most favorable months for planting cuttings are January-February. In this development option, by autumn you will have a bush of 4-5 shoots. If you decide to plant cuttings in the spring, then by autumn the shoots will grow significantly less and they will be weaker.

A fairly simple process, and its result depends on the accuracy of the gardener and the size of the bush. Hydrangia tolerates this kind of intervention very well.

We begin the procedure in early spring or late autumn, but before the sleep period. First of all, you need to carefully remove the plant from the pot. Next we lay it out on newspaper or oilcloth. And we begin to carefully divide the root so that each one contains a growth bud that will give rise to new young shoots. It is also necessary to trim the cuttings, leaving 3-5 buds on them.

We plant these parts in separate pots, and by autumn they will take root perfectly. If you divided the plant in the fall, then expect flowers by spring.

You have learned everything you need to know about indoor hydrangea and not being afraid to grow it. Hydrangea is a beautiful flower in every way. It is suitable for both professionals and beauty lovers. If you follow all the rules for caring for this flower and don’t forget about watering, then there will always be bright flowers in your home. All the best!

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Hydrangea belongs to those unique plants that are equally used in ornamental gardening and indoor floriculture. The lush caps of its inflorescences, flaunting rare pastel shades, captivate and conquer with tenderness and pride. Hydrangeas, both in open soil and in pots, are quite demanding in terms of growing conditions and require specific care.

Decorative characteristics

Hydrangeas are subshrubs from the group of perennial flowering garden crops, with beautiful large leaves with a pointed edge, growing in the form of a multi-stemmed compact spherical bush. The color of the leaves is rich green, two types of flowers - large sterile and small fruit-bearing, are collected in a spherical inflorescence, similar to large caps.

The color of hydrangeas ranges from snowy white to cream, lilac, pinkish, blue, light green shades, which look like light spots in any interior.

Most often, the most capricious type of hydrangea - large-leaved - is grown in indoor culture, but there are also spectacular varieties of tree-like, petiolate and paniculate hydrangeas.

In indoor cultivation, hydrangeas are much more compact than their garden counterparts, and thanks to selection, the flowering period is more extended, and in some varieties the intensity of unusual colors is much higher than that of garden plants.

The role of hydrangea in the interior

Hydrangeas are often perceived as plants with a nostalgic charm, but they only play such a romantic role in the appropriate surroundings, in rooms with nostalgic furnishings and with accentuating decor. In fact, hydrangeas are modern plants that look fashionable and fresh in any interior style and in any setting.

To the greatest extent, their fashionable palette of cool pastel colors and perfection of forms are revealed in laconic, bright rooms, in interiors that represent all modern trends and design directions. In such an environment, hydrangeas do not need to be supplemented with accessories. In other interior styles, the harmonious perception of the plant directly depends on the container and accompanying decor.

Hydrangeas are one of the best indoor flowering shrubs for the role of a soloist. They should not be displayed in compositions and collections, with the exception of groups of differently colored hydrangeas. It is advisable to choose a location away from exotic indoor plants and flowering plants with bright yellow and red patterns, which can neutralize the effectiveness of spherical inflorescences and the brightness of the leaves, and deprive the hydrangea of its daring beauty.

Hydrangeas go well with containers with unusual decor, with the help of which the solo plant can be turned into a spectacular “living sculpture”. Pots with a monotonous color, pastel or acrylic, preferably matte textures, or even metal containers are also great.

Plant requirements and cyclical development

Hydrangeas cannot be considered one of the easiest indoor crops to grow. These are quite demanding plants not only in terms of growing conditions, but also in terms of the intensity of care, which require strict adherence to the rules of care at home and do not forgive mistakes and negligence.

But most of all the difficulties will be caused by the need to maintain cyclical development, extremely strict monitoring of wintering conditions and careful care at the stage of bud formation. The beautiful, bright greenery of the crown is a virtue that is inherent in indoor hydrangeas during the period of active growth with almost any care, but the luxury of hydrangea flowering can only be observed by caring owners who take into account all the requirements of the plant for lighting and its changes, for the selection of soil, and temperature conditions and ensure regular watering and maintenance.

Hydrangeas are deciduous shrubs that do not retain foliage even in indoor cultivation. They have a clearly expressed constant cyclical development. Before wintering, this plant sheds its intensely colored leaves, after which a period of complete dormancy begins, during which the hydrangea needs to ensure a strong decrease in temperature and correction of the feeding and watering system.

The rest period lasts about two and a half months. The active period covers spring and summer.

Lighting and placement

Hydrangeas belong to those garden crops that brighten up nooks and shaded areas. Their lighting requirements do not change even in indoor conditions: hydrangeas prefer to grow in secluded partial shade, in diffused light of medium intensity. This plant is absolutely cannot be exposed to direct sunlight, which will not only jeopardize flowering, but also cause a loss of decorativeness of the leaves.

But such requirements for a semi-shaded location also have a specific feature: with its love of seclusion, hydrangea also needs its uniformity: Light intensity should not change throughout the year, its decrease during the cold period can be disastrous for this crop. In winter, it is necessary to compensate for the seasonal decrease in light intensity by moving the plant to more illuminated places that were not suitable for it in summer due to their sunshine and brightness. Without such a rearrangement, hydrangeas will lack light in winter and not only lose their decorative value, but also weaken, becoming extremely vulnerable to diseases and pests.

When choosing a place where hydrangeas will be comfortable, do not forget about the need to provide them with enough space and access to circulating air.

Hydrangeas can only be placed in large or at least medium-sized rooms, in which the caps of their inflorescences and the massiveness of the bush will have a harmonizing effect on the surrounding space and will not obscure the perception of the room itself. But they should not be placed in small rooms and offices, even if the lighting of the given place is completely suitable for them: the lush beauty of the plants will visually narrow the space, and hydrangeas will not be comfortable in cramped spaces and they will be visually inferior in decorativeness to those plants that have been provided with sufficient space.

The love for free air is fully manifested in the need to ventilate rooms (only without creating drafts), and in the requirement to move plants to open spaces in the summer, to fresh air. Hydrangeas are most comfortable in cool places in the garden, on terraces or balconies with shade.

Temperature and need for fresh air

Hydrangeas are as demanding on temperature conditions as they are on lighting. They need cool conditions and even among cultivars specially selected for home conditions, this need does not change. Indoor hydrangeas will delight with their beauty for many years only if the temperature in the room where they grow does not exceed 20 degrees Celsius. The slightest fluctuation in the direction of heat will lead to the shedding of leaves and disruption of the cyclical development of these indoor crops. In winter, hydrangeas require even stricter temperatures: they winter in the range from 4 to 8 degrees Celsius.

Hydrangeas overwinter in cool and always dry rooms, which can be even the darkest, since hydrangeas completely lose their attractiveness and foliage during the dormant period.

Their can be left to spend the winter on the balcony: This shrub’s love for low temperatures is combined with winter hardiness. In this case, the hydrangea shoots are cut by two-thirds, carefully bent to the soil and wrapped in spruce branches, if necessary, also protected with non-woven material. But even if the shoots freeze under such cover, the plants, after radical pruning, will quickly recover in the spring and will not lose their ability to flower in the same year.

Humidity and watering

It is no coincidence that hydrangeas received their botanical name “Hydrangea” (Greek: “vessel of water”): they are indeed extremely moisture-loving crops. Them need abundant and frequent watering throughout the active period of development which is carried out systematically, with constant monitoring of soil conditions. Before each subsequent watering, the soil should almost completely dry out in the top layer, but retain moisture around the roots, which will eliminate the risk of waterlogging and rotting.

Starting in September, watering is gradually reduced, reducing it until winter to very rare, just preventing the earthen clod from completely drying out. Watering is resumed after the first signs of the appearance of new leaves at the end of the dormant period, just as gradually as they were reduced.

In addition to watering, indoor hydrangeas require maintaining high air humidity, which is best done by constant spraying and installing a simple humidifier in the form of a tray or saucer with wet stones and moss (the water level in the tray should in no case reach the bottom of the pot).

Top dressing

Feeding hydrangeas, unlike watering, is simple. Plants begin to be fed only when the first buds appear on them, regularly applying any complex fertilizer intended for flowering crops.

Feeding is carried out every two weeks and gradually reduced after flowering.

Trimming

A specific component of caring for indoor hydrangeas is the need for proper and regular pruning. It is carried out after the end of the dormant period, completely cutting out or greatly shortening elongated and weak branches, leaving no more than 6 buds on each shoot (at least 2 buds).

Pruning after wintering stimulates the formation of strong skeletal branches and allows for more powerful flowering.

Substrate and specifics of transplantation

The soil for growing hydrangeas is selected very carefully, because plants with different colors need a substrate with different degrees of acidity. Blue varieties of hydrangeas grow only in acidic soils, but all others need a low-acidity soil mixture. The composition of the substrate should consist of equal parts of coniferous soil and peat with the addition of sand and humus.

Hydrangeas due to active development and garden origin require mandatory annual transplantation, while the volume of the container is increased by approximately one and a half times compared to the previous diameter (if the plant reaches too large a size and there is nowhere to increase the container, it is necessary to carry out division and rejuvenation).

Hydrangeas grow only in classic containers, the height of which is greater than the width, preferably with a widening towards the top.

Reproduction

Indoor hydrangeas are propagated by cutting young shoots in March (straight cuts), very rarely by dividing bushes, grafting, layering, suckers and seeds.

Pests, diseases and common problems

Of the pests, hydrangeas are most often plagued by spider mites, which appear on plants suffering from a lack of moisture in the air or soil, but if not properly cared for, hydrangeas can also suffer from downy mildew (you can fight it with copper sulfate, soap solution, insecticides), chlorosis (help solutions of potassium nitrate or copper sulfate), green leaf aphids (insecticides will be needed).

If the plant is in an overly lit location, it may develop light spots on leaves.
Dried ends usually indicate insufficient air humidity and poor watering.
Lack of flowering and slow growth they talk about an insufficient level of fertilizing.

Hydrangea is a common plant. It is grown as a garden and indoor crop. Flower growers and simply lovers of beautiful plants are captivated by the lush caps of flowers in different pastel shades. The color range is very wide; breeders have developed many spectacular varieties. The plant is capricious and requires special care. We invite you to learn everything about caring for indoor hydrangea at home.

A beautiful flowering shrub-type perennial. Home hydrangea is a compact bush with many stems. The leaves are large and intense in color. Flowers of different sizes depending on the variety are collected in spherical inflorescences. Colors - lilac, cream, pink, white. The color changes depending on the acidity of the soil. In alkaline soil the flowers will be lilac and pink, in acidic soil they will be blue, and in neutral soil they will be white.

With good care, some varieties of hydrangea reach a meter in height. Each bush is decorated with up to seven inflorescences. Flowers bloom at the very top of the shoots. The size of the inflorescence depends on their number on one bush. The fewer there are, the larger the flowers. As a houseplant, hydrangea has brighter colors than garden varieties.

Little trick! Hydrangea changes color depending on the acidity and chemical composition of the soil. Flower growers use this feature to create unusual colorful bushes. If you want to get a blue color, water the flower with a solution of iron salts or ammonium-potassium alum. Pink or purple - lime is added. Try applying different fertilizers on each side and you will see how the hydrangea bush becomes colorful. This technique only works on varieties with pink flowers.

Popular varieties

The hydrangea family includes about 80 species. Indoor hydrangeas are compact and low-growing. Most of them are bred artificially, specifically for apartment conditions.

Hydrangea paniculata. A low variety no more than half a meter. Buds form in July, mass flowering begins only at the end of August. The flowers are white, often tinging with purple and crimson. It is characterized by increased cold resistance.
Large-leaved hydrangea. Tall shrub up to two meters. It is distinguished by very large ovoid leaves. The color of the flowers depends on the composition of the soil. Blooms in late summer. Most often used for growing outdoors. Low-growing varieties are chosen as pot crops.
Oakleaf hydrangea. The average height is about a meter. The leaves are shaped like oak leaves. The color of the leaves is green in summer, becoming reddish in autumn. Flowers also change color as they bloom.
Hydrangea. In temperate latitudes it is often grown in gardens and parks. Height - from one to three meters. The leaves are large, the inflorescences are spherical or flattened, white.

Important information! The flower belongs to deciduous crops. In winter, it sheds its leaves even in warm weather, entering a dormant phase. During this period, the plant is kept in a dark, cool room and watered occasionally. The flower rests for about 2-3 months and starts growing again in the spring.

Subtleties of care

Hydrangea in a pot is a capricious flower. It is susceptible to growing conditions and care. Carelessness, irregular watering, inappropriate wintering conditions - all this is immediately reflected in its appearance. It is recommended to strictly adhere to a number of rules.

Temperature	Even in summer they maintain moderate temperatures no higher than 18°C. In winter it is reduced to -8...-10°C. In the spring they gradually increase. Heat has an adverse effect on decorativeness, weakens the plant, and leads to pest damage.
Lighting	Prefers light partial shade to sunny areas. Leaves get burned easily.
Watering	Moisture-loving flower. Hydrangea is often and abundantly watered, bathed in a warm shower. The method of watering is practiced by completely immersing the pot in water. It is advisable to take rain or boiled water. In winter, watering is limited until flower buds form.
Humidity	High humidity has a beneficial effect on the condition of the plant. Frequent spraying is recommended, regardless of the time of year.
Feeding	They are fed year-round with complex mineral fertilizers. Recommended dosage - 2g. mineral complex per liter of water. The interval between fertilizing is a week.
The soil	Loose, nutritious. The recommended composition is coniferous soil, peat, sand and humus. Optimal acidity is pH 5.5.
Transfer	The intervals between transplants are at least two years. The exception is young specimens - they are replanted annually. Each time the pot is increased by one and a half times.
Trimming	Held twice a year. After flowering, all weakened, thin shoots are cut out, strong shoots are shortened by half. In spring, very elongated branches are shortened.

Reproduction options

Hydrangea is grown from seeds at home if vegetative propagation is not possible. Hybrid varieties are not propagated by seeds collected with one’s own hands.

Division. The easiest way. During transplantation, the plant is removed from the ground, the rhizomes are freed from the ground, and divided into two parts. An adult, heavily grown plant can be divided into more parts. The roots and shoots are shortened, and the divisions are planted in separate pots.
Cuttings. Cuttings are cut at the end of winter or the very beginning of spring. Cut from root shoots. 3-4 internodes are left on each cutting. The lower leaves are cut off completely, the upper ones are cut in half. The cutting is placed at a slight angle in a peat-sand mixture, and the soil is slightly moistened. Before rooting, keep under cover, systematically water and ventilate. Roots appear on average within a month. Wait about two weeks and transplant into a permanent pot with a complete soil mixture.
Seeds. Sown at the end of winter. Use light, nutritious, breathable soil. Seeds are distributed over the surface of the substrate without being buried. Soil is not sprinkled. Keep under film, ventilate daily and spray with a spray bottle. At the stage of 2-3 true leaves, they are picked into separate cups.

Common Pests and Problems

Low air humidity, close placement of flowers on the windowsill, irregular ventilation of the room - all these factors contribute to the appearance of pests. Most often, hydrangea is affected by spider mites and aphids. Sometimes you have to deal with powdery mildew. Insects are treated with insecticides, and powdery mildew is treated with fungicides. Other problems are related to improper care.

Despite the capriciousness of the plant, many gardeners love and grow hydrangea. With good care, it forms a lush bush, strewn with flowers of different shades.