How to make an engraver from a motor. DIY laser engraver - a great solution for the workshop

Good time everyone!

In this post, I want to share with you the process of creating a laser engraver based on a diode laser from China.

A few years ago, there was a desire to purchase a ready-made version of an engraver from Aliexpress with a budget of 15 thousand, but after a long search, I came to the conclusion that all the options presented are too simple and, in fact, are toys. And I wanted something desktop and at the same time quite serious. After a month of research, it was decided to make this device with our own hands, and away we go...

At that moment, I didn’t have a 3D printer and 3D modeling experience yet, but everything was fine with drawing)

Here is actually one of those ready-made engravers from China.

After looking at the options for possible designs of mechanics, the first sketches of the future machine were made on a piece of paper ..))

It was decided that the engraving area should not be less than A3 sheet.

The laser module itself was one of the first purchased. Power 2W, as it was the best option for a reasonable price.

Here is the actual laser module itself.

And so, it was decided that the X-axis would travel along the Y-axis and its design began. And it all started with a carriage...

The entire frame of the machine was made from aluminum profiles of various shapes, purchased from Leroy.

At this stage, sketches on notebook sheets no longer appeared, everything was drawn and thought out in Compass.

Having bought 2 meters of a square profile 40x40 mm to build the frame of the machine, in the end only the carriage itself was made of it ..))

Motors, linear bearings, belts, shafts and all electronics were ordered from Aliexpress during the development process and plans for how the motors would be mounted and what kind of control board would change on the go.

After several days of drawing in Compass, a more or less clear version of the machine design was determined.

And so the X-axis was born ..))

Sidewalls of the Y axis (sorry for the quality of the photo).

Fitting.

And finally the first run!

A simple 3D model of the general view of the machine was built in order to accurately determine its appearance and dimensions.

And away we go... Plexiglas... Painting, wiring and other little things.

And finally, when everything was adjusted and the last part was painted black 8), the finish line came!

Engraving, grinding, cutting on metal, glass, plastic, bone - all this is included in the capabilities of the electric engraver. For those who are just deciding which tool to choose, an overview of its varieties will be useful. Tips and video instructions for working with an electric engraver, as well as a description of some breakdowns and how to fix them, will be useful to the owners of the tool. And lovers of an individual approach will learn how to make it at home.

Electric engraver - features, main tasks, types

An electric engraver is very similar in shape and general principle of operation to a drill. The main difference between the engraver is its miniature size (you can work with one hand) and high speed, that is, the number of revolutions per minute. This tool also allows you to work with high precision. An electric engraver, as the name implies, is primarily intended for engraving - applying letters, lines, backgrounds to the surface. But not everything is so simple.

Kinds

Trying to find a suitable model for yourself, not for long and get confused. There are many names in the catalogs and in the names of manufacturers: “engraver”, “mini-” or “micro-drill”, “dremel”, “drill”, “straight grinder”. What is worth considering? What to miss? I want certainty. An overview of models depending on their capabilities, as well as feedback from those who already use the tool, will help to solve this problem.

Shock

In a very strict sense, an engraver is a percussion instrument, the principle of operation is similar to a perforator. Simply arranged. In work it is accurate, but noisy, makes an unpleasant sound. The impact engraver is designed for a small range of work - namely, for dot engraving or, if you contrive with a nozzle, carving, it is perfect for working on metal, inscriptions. When applying dot engraving, a silky finish is obtained. You can also perform contour drawing on stone, work on glass, but care must be taken with this material - there is a high risk of breaking the surface. Among the impact engravers, Dremel models are the most represented on the market, there are Chinese counterparts, they are inexpensive, but the quality of their work is a big question.

Video: review and test of the Dremel Engraver

Network devices with motor and handpiece in one housing

Many manufacturers and craftsmen also call engravers mini-drills, drills, straight grinders. These are tools that work on the principle of rotation: the engine turns the spindle, a cartridge is attached to the spindle, in which the equipment (nozzles) is installed. The peculiarity of such an apparatus is the abundance of nozzles for it, they can be both purchased and made by hand. They can perform a huge number of operations - grinding, polishing, drilling, milling, sharpening. Devices within this huge group differ depending on the structure of the case, the method of feeding. But all of them are united by miniaturization and precision of processing.

Network tools work from the electrical network, more than others look like a small drill. As a rule, they are made in a plastic case. The group is very large, the scope is very wide. Most of the cheap Chinese models with rather modest characteristics belong to this type of instrument. A special cable with a tip - a flexible shaft - and a special stand allow you to expand the functions of such devices, turning them into an analogue of suspended machines.

Suspended machines

The tip of these devices is connected to the body with a flexible cable. The speed is not controlled by a switch, but by a pedal.

Mobile electric engravers

The peculiarity of such devices is that they receive power not from the network, but from batteries. You can work with them anywhere. Such a device is especially useful for a master working with wet material - battery-powered power tools are the safest in such cases.

Which electric engraver to choose

Weight, noise, power, number of revolutions - these are the main characteristics that directly affect the quality and convenience of work. As with other tools, there is no ideal engraver. Powerful models lose in the number of revolutions, fast ones - in power. It is not so convenient to perform long operations with a heavy tool, a light tool often has a low quality of materials from which the parts and body are made.

Key Features Affecting Performance

In order to make it easier to decide which parameters can be sacrificed when choosing a machine and which not, the list contains not only the technical parameters of the tool, but also the relationship between them:

• power. The difference in the power of the machines on the market is very large - from about 12 to 350 watts. Very often, weight is directly related to power. The higher the power, the heavier the device. Power is also directly related to torque. This parameter is measured in Newtons per centimeter. This is a kind of machine power. Manufacturers often do not indicate it at all, limiting themselves to power. Among other things, the torque affects how the machine will work with large diameter equipment. The larger the diameter, the larger this indicator should be. The torque depends on the motor size. The larger the diameter, the higher the indicator. The higher the engine speed, the lower the torque;
• number of turns. This is the speed at which the nozzle rotates. The run-up is also very large, on average it reaches 35,000 rpm at the maximum, at the minimum - from zero. The speed control function is very useful, it is equipped with an overwhelming number of models;
• collet. Nozzle holder. The ability to mount cartridges and collets of different sizes will be an advantage - you can mount equipment from different manufacturers on the tool. It is worth paying attention to how standard the thread on the cartridge is.

The collet chuck and collets affect the versatility of the electric engraver. It depends on the type of cartridge whether it is possible to install nozzles with different shank sizes.

Table: types of materials and optimal tool parameters for working with them

Plastic	Melts easily. You cannot work with it at high speeds - from heating the material will soften, deform, and begin to stick to the tool. Very viscous. Machining torque must be high
Bone	The bone at high speeds also deteriorates, burns, clogs the surface of the tool. It is extremely important to choose the right equipment - a small notch clogs very quickly, too large one spoils the material, tearing out pieces. At low speeds, it is poorly processed, chipped, and a torn surface is obtained. The tool can even jump off, “go” - and this is fraught with injury. 10,000-35,000 rpm for bone work. High torque is not needed
A rock	RPM doesn't matter much. But it takes a lot of effort to process. Need a powerful tool with high torque
Glass	Very fragile material, it is impossible to apply great efforts to it. High torque is not needed, but high RPM is needed. At low speeds there is a danger that the glass will burst
Tree	Depends on the type of wood. It is better to study this topic separately - each type of tree requires its own parameters and its own equipment. For example, for loose rocks, more revolutions and not very high torque will be required.

It is also important what exactly needs to be done with the tool. Engraving, cutting or sanding? Or maybe polish? When cutting, you need high speed, and when polishing, you need more power. The more difficult the task the master sets himself, the less likely it is that one, universal tool will ideally cope with it. If you plan to process wet material, you must use only a machine with a battery or a flexible shaft - this is a matter of your safety.

It is best to choose one - expensive and high-quality - a tool for basic work and the second - cheaper and easier - for what you are going to do not so often.

Equipment

Engravers, as a rule, complete with a case for storage, as well as a variety of sets of nozzles. When buying your first engraving machine, you should not chase after an abundance of consumables and overpay for something that will never come in handy. Take the standard set. Of the additional equipment in the package, you can pay attention to the flexible shaft - it will give more opportunities for precise work - and a stand in order to hang the engraver itself when working with a flexible shaft.

For complex tasks, for various types of work with materials of different properties, you will need a tool with an extended set.

In the expanded configuration of the electric engraver - not only nozzles, but also an additional battery pack, a handle for fine work, compasses and other devices

Engravers are produced under many brands. These are Zubr, Caliber, Whirlwind, Intertool, Hammer, Bosh, Watt, Wortex, Ryobi, Sturm, Einhell, Proxxon and others. The most famous brand, Dremel, is named after Albert Dremel, the inventor of the small electric motor and high speed tool. Now this word has become a household word - any electric engravers are often called dremels.

In 1906, a young mechanic, Albert Dremel, came from Austria to the United States. At first he had to work in a workshop, where he was engaged in all kinds of rough work - he adjusted the details with a file, sharpened workpieces on a lathe. And for the soul, he played the violin a little in local pubs on weekends. In 1931 he founded his own company - Dremel Manufacturing Company. Its first successful product was a machine for electric sharpening razors. And the next invention of Dremel forever won the hearts of all kinds of DIYers.

Tatiana Fam

Journal "Popular Mechanics" No. 12 of 2015

Reviews, opinions about electric engravers

The ideal tool does not exist - tested in practice. But reviews, both positive and negative, can still help with the choice: it is always useful to know what you might encounter when using a machine. Here are some reviews for various models.

Dremel is good with a huge number of attachments, an almost universal tool. RPM control helps too. I bought myself a whale 300 series - I'm not overjoyed. But the thing is not a budget thing, yes, a set of 3500 came out, and even nozzles for almost the same number, and that's not all. About the rest they say that they say the accuracy is not the same, but the build quality. It is understandable, it is more profitable for them to sell at a higher price. You can try to look for used ones, there are good options.

Romick

http://www.tehnari.ru/f34/t57749/#post593402

I am the owner (about 4 years) Dremel 4000. The machine is very good, reliable. But if I'm going to buy another, then Dremel will not choose. The reason is simple - the use of exclusively branded, far from cheap and not very high-quality consumables. Tools from other manufacturers are very rarely suitable. In the kit there was only a collet for shanks 3.2 mm., And most of all you have to work with dental burs. I tried to order cartridges in China, but contrary to the assurances of the sellers (I ordered twice from different ones), the thread does not fit. I didn’t receive a response or a hello to an order in a Russian online store, and, most likely, there are the same ones from China. Here is a Dremel in a homemade board drilling stand, and only Japanese board drills with a 3.17 mm shank are used with it. The rest of the load is carried by an inexpensive, but, as practice has shown, no less reliable Chinese Wolf MD32, the cartridges to which came up without question.

uzren

http://www.tehnari.ru/f222/t247517/#post2397508

Available on the farm Proxxon FBS 240/E. I have been using for several years. When I compared it with others, I settled on it. The 50th seemed rather weak. I took it when I had to repair an expensive interchangeable lens from a Canon SLR camera. They slammed it and broke the zoom lens. It was necessary to drill four holes with a diameter of 0.4 mm in a wall 0.82 mm thick. The car coped with a bang, the cartridge does not hit at all, it works softly. Later he acquired the necessary equipment, in particular, a flexible sleeve with a conventional chuck and a chuck for collets. It should be noted that the collets for him are three-jaw, and this already says something. I use it as a "thin" tool. For more rough work, there are other devices. I think to take another drilling and milling head BFW 40 / E from the same office. I had to work with hand tools from other manufacturers, but, in my opinion, this one is the best.

VlaDZeniN

http://www.cqham.ru/forum/archive/index.php/t-23998.html

I have Ferm (type Austrian). He paid back his money a long time ago (its price was something like 30-40 bucks). I can't say it's terribly poor quality. The most useful is the flexible shaft. Everything that is missing from the nozzles in the basic kit is purchased separately. Cutting wheels are a weak thing and independent of the manufacturer (the exception is reinforced, but it’s hard to find them with us), as a result, I make it myself from a 1 mm cutting wheel grinder. Everything else does not require hands.

SknUA

http://forum.amadeus-project.com/index.php?showtopic=719&view=findpost&p=10410

Nozzles for an electric engraver - types, methods of application and do-it-yourself refinement

Most often, a set of nozzles is supplied with the tool. You can buy what you need later. Ideally, the nozzle should be of the same company as the engraver - only then the manufacturer guarantees quality. But if the “native” nozzle is not on sale or it is too expensive, you can use analogues or even homemade ones. The main thing to pay attention to is that the tail diameter (shank) of the nozzle matches the cartridge in the engraver. Inexpensive bits, especially those made in China, most often have a 3.2 mm shank.

Nozzles are usually easy to change. It is necessary to press the stopper button, thereby blocking the spindle. Using the key that comes with the tool, loosen the collet chuck, then unscrew it and remove the nozzle. Insert new. For a thicker or thinner nozzle, you will have to change the collet. The jaw chuck facilitates this task - depending on the range of sizes, nozzles with different shank diameters are installed there.

Engraving attachments, burs

They are produced from various alloys, with different types of coating, various shapes. Designed mainly for drawing a series of patterns on the surface. The type of bur depends on the material to be worked with. So, the most common ones are:

• carbide - very durable, high-quality and expensive nozzles, a special type of carbide burs - in the form of a peak, they work well on plastic, bones, these burs do tracing - they display the main lines of the drawing;
• steel - the main cutting tool, come in various shapes and configurations;
• combined - the base is steel, and the head is carbide;
• diamond-coated nozzles - very productive; they can be bought at a medical equipment store, they are also available on Chinese sites - quite acceptable quality.

Sometimes manufacturers label burs with a color. Color also indicates the degree of sharpening. Burs with black markings are very productive, but the sharpening of blue and green ones is weaker. Burs marked yellow are well suited for finishing.

Hand-made boron - trihedral peak

If a suitable nozzle was not found on sale, it can be made. For example, boron in the form of a trihedral peak. Factory (Kazan) options are thin, elongated, with a high pyramid, but their tip has some rounding. This disadvantage is quite possible to eliminate at home. You can sharpen the factory ones, or you can make it yourself on the basis of the old boron - a truncated cone. Sharpen on a diamond disc. Before sharpening, you need to find the middle of the working part of the bur-blank and sharpen at an obtuse angle. After you get a kind of bullet, you can direct the edges. After sharpening, the nozzle must be checked on the material, and then finished manually using sandpaper.

Video: making a nozzle - a trihedral peak with your own hands

Other types of nozzles

In addition to engraving, a machine can perform a huge number of operations. It is for them - cutting, drilling, grinding, polishing - that other types of nozzles are intended.

The entire array of equipment can be divided into groups. Here are some of them:

• drills - like burs, there are carbide and steel;
• brushes - steel, muslin fabric, thread;
• rubber cylinders - often masters “bring them to mind”, putting them on spent burs, grind off the tip with an abrasive, giving the shape of a bullet, a good grinding nozzle is obtained;
• grinding stones - differ both in shape and in material;
• grinding discs - emery wheels (they can be cut out of ordinary sandpaper and glued to the base, attached to the disc holder), diamond rings;
• special holders on which felt is wound; they very often come in tool sets along with the tool; instead of such a holder, you can also use an old bur, and attach the felt pad with superglue;
• nozzles "Hedgehogs" made of tungsten carbide, these are burs coated with needles and chips; they can be used to work with plastic, artificial stone, wood; require special care when using - you can get hurt.

How to work with an electric engraver

Before you start, it does not hurt to think about the organization of the workplace. You will have to deal with small details, elements, accuracy will be required. Therefore, take care of the lighting in advance. When working, dust and small particles will surely fly - cover the surface of the table, furniture with something.

Step-by-step instruction

1. First, create a blank - what you will eventually engrave. Many operations, especially on wood - cutting, grinding - can be performed with an electric engraver.
2. Then attach the stencil. You can draw lines on paper by overlaying the pattern on the surface. And you can transfer directly to the material using, for example, carbon paper. The surface must be degreased before painting. If you have a ready-made stencil drawing, fix it to the surface with tape. If you work with gloves, there will be no traces on the degreased surface. For engraving on glass, the drawing must be placed under it.
3. Start with the outline and only then move on to the fine details of the drawing. Mark complex lines with dots, and then connect them. Chiaroscuro in the figure, the tone, if any, is best done last.

Video: making a wooden shelf with engraving

Safety

• be sure to wear glasses;
• start at low speeds - this way there is less chance that the tool will jump out of habit;
• when drawing a line, lead the engraver away from you if possible;
• take breaks, ideally every 10-15 minutes, this will help not to overheat the tool; if the device has a good cooling system, you can interrupt less often, but remember about your own fatigue - it will be a shame to spoil the work just before the finish;
• before starting work, be sure to inspect the tool and nozzles: the power cord must be in good condition, nozzles - without damage or chips; damaged ones must be replaced.
• consumables, discs, nozzles must correspond in their parameters to the tool, first of all, this concerns the size of the shank.

Care

Less repair costs and more pleasant working experience - this can be achieved by properly caring for the tool. Moreover, especially time-consuming care and cleaning is not necessary.

The engraver can be used, as they say, out of the box - the tool does not require any special tricks before the first use. But after use, you need to clean it - just sweep the dust from the tip and body. Particular attention should be paid to ventilation slots. You can use a brush or brush.

Repair - what can be done with your own hands

In case of serious breakdowns, of course, it is better to contact the workshop. But in many cases, you can do it yourself. If we are talking about a Dremel tool, then disassembling it is easy - just unscrew the screws and pry off the body parts with a screwdriver. They break apart easily.

Electric engraver device

The machine consists of a motor (stator, armature), spindle (shaft), brushes, cooling system, tip to which the equipment is attached. Some models are equipped with a speed switch, impact force, electronics (a screen showing the number of revolutions). But the general principle remains the same.

The electric engraver is easy to disassemble - just unscrew the screws and, prying with a screwdriver, open the case

The internal structure of the electric engraver: 1 - speed switch, 2 - brushes on the sides, 3 - engine, 4 - "fan" at anchor, 5 - stop button; 6 - tip.

Photo gallery: components of an electric engraver

Stator - external, fixed part of the engine Anchor, or rotor, - the internal, movable part of the engine Bearings are mounted on the edges of the armature

The device makes an uncharacteristic sound, the airflow from the fan increases

Perhaps the anchor is catching on the stator. One of the reasons is the failure of the rubber ring - the coupling, over time it can wear out or even break. In order to replace the clutch, it is necessary to disassemble not only the housing itself, but also the engine.

Video: disassembling the motor of the electric engraver, replacing the clutch

Overheat

If the machine heats up too much and too quickly, the bearings may be clogged with dirt and need to be cleaned and lubricated. It is necessary to remove the anchor, it is not necessary to remove the bearings from it. First, using an awl, carefully remove the anthers, then rinse the bearings with kerosene. Rinse very thoroughly. For this, as well as for lubrication, you can use a syringe. If during disassembly the anthers are deformed, they need to be straightened - a small flat screwdriver is convenient for this.

Video: cleaning and lubricating bearings

Poor switching speeds

The switch may be faulty due to clogged dust - small particles flying during operation. To do this, you need to disassemble the device and clean it. It is very effective to blow out the inside of the tool with compressed air from a small bottle. Remove the remaining dust with a brush.

Video: cleaning the speed switch

How to make an electric engraver yourself

A tool designed for simple tasks can be made by yourself using various basics. Household appliances equipped with a motor, such as a blender, are perfect. A hand blender is also good because its handle is anatomically shaped, it is comfortable to hold, and the motor in this device is quite powerful. To do this, you will need to purchase a collet chuck and a switch so that you do not have to manually hold the button all the time.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Disassemble the blender.
2. Take out the printed circuit board, motor.
3. Measure the spindle - you will need a collet chuck for this diameter.
4. Parts, especially the old engine, must be thoroughly cleaned.
5. Put the chuck on the spindle.
6. Instead of a blender button, install a switch lever. To do this, you will need to remove the button contacts from the printed circuit board, and instead solder the wires for the switch.
7. Drill a hole in the housing for the lever.
8. Install the board and switch, put the motor in place.
9. Assemble the body.

Video: do-it-yourself engraver from a blender

An electric engraver is a versatile tool that can perform a huge number of operations, not limited to drawings and inscriptions. The choice of models is very wide, and the most famous Dremel brand has worthy competitors. The machine should be selected for the type of work and for the main material with which you are going to experiment. There are a huge number of nozzles for an electric engraver, but if you could not get the right one, you can make some yourself. At home, you can also repair the device and even make it from another household appliance, such as a blender.

Creating an engraving machine with your own hands is a rather difficult task. Despite this, there are craftsmen who can make a homemade CNC engraving machine at home, which is many times more difficult. In this article, we will provide detailed instructions, following which you can create your own device for engraving workpieces.

Of course, designing such a machine at home requires a lot of material costs and solid skills, but by making such a machine yourself, you can save a significant amount of money and create a device that best suits your production goals.

Where to begin?

If you decide to make an engraving machine with your own hands, we recommend that you immediately design a CNC device. This will greatly increase the performance of the device and make it easier to work with it. After that, decide on the layout of the device. As a basis, you can take an old mini-drilling machine and replace the drill in it with the cutter itself.

1. Choose a mechanism that will be responsible for moving the working unit along the planes. For this purpose, you can use carriages from an old printer. In addition, the apparatus constructed in this way will make it relatively easy to attach a digital node. It is worth noting that carriages are best taken from large printers. This will significantly strengthen the design of the machine.
2. Equip your machine with a powerful stepper motor. For this purpose, we recommend using old electric motors.
3. Pay special attention to the milling unit.
4. To carry out the transmission from the engine to the working unit, it is best to use a toothed belt drive.

Device Assembly

After we have decided on the layout of the machine and the origin of its main parts, it's time to start assembling our machine for engraving workpieces. The basis for the device can be made a rectangular beam, which is mounted on rails. It is recommended to fasten the remaining structural elements to the beam with screws.

The fact is that our entire structure must have increased rigidity, since quite serious loads will act on it during operation. The lack of reliable fasteners and the unsteadiness of the installation will necessarily affect the quality of workpiece processing.

At the same time, do not abuse welding. The fact is that welding seams are quite seriously subject to deformation and destruction. Such connections are especially difficult to tolerate various vibrations, which will be quite a lot during the operation of the device. Guides should also be made of durable material, resistant to a variety of deformations.

Otherwise, this element of the structure will have to be changed after a relatively short time after the start of use of the machine. The design of the device must include a lifting mechanism for the milling unit. It is best to use a screw gear for this purpose.

The vertical axis for the machine is best made from an aluminum plate. Its dimensions must be compared with the dimensions of other elements of the structure of the machine. When we have the axis ready, we can begin to install stepper motors. The first will move in the horizontal direction, and the second in the vertical direction. Transmission method - belt. Before using the machine, it must be operated in manual mode.

Electrical equipment and software

Any modern engraving machine will only be as efficient as its software. High-quality electrical equipment also plays one of the defining roles.

What the digital node should look like:

• The software must have all the necessary drivers for the installed machine elements. In addition, the machine program must be consistent with all operating modes of the device. First of all, the software must be reliable and functional.
• An LPT port must be provided in the design of the unit.
• Numerical software is connected via the LPT port.
• After installing the CNC on the machine, all the necessary drivers and programs are installed.

When assembling a digital engraving machine assembly, it should be remembered that the quality of the work performed will necessarily affect the operation of the device. Before using the device, you should carefully check the functionality of the software. After correctly setting up the entire machine and troubleshooting, a home-made device will be able to perform many functions with high quality.

Video: do-it-yourself engraving and milling machine.

Which engine to choose?

Any CNC engraving machine should be equipped with an electric type stepper motor. For these purposes, engines from old printers are perfect. Most of these products were equipped with a pair of suitable motors. In addition to the units themselves, rods can also be removed from the printers, which are also suitable for our device.

It is worth noting that for the full-fledged operation of a home-made engraving device, not two, but three similar motors should be installed on it. Thus, one must either look for two matrix printers, or buy the necessary parts on the market.

The optimal structure of the engines should include five separate wires for control, which will significantly increase the functionality of the apparatus. An important indicator for the motor is the number of degrees per step. An important factor is the operating voltage and winding resistance. Information about these indicators will help to correctly configure the operation of the entire device.

1. A nut and stud with the required dimensions can be used as a drive.
2. Fasteners for parts can be made with a drill and a file. For these purposes, a sleeve with a screw is perfect.
3. The motor shaft is most often attached with a thick rubber wire with a good winding. Through this element, you can qualitatively attach the engine to the stud.

The instructions presented above are suitable not only for making a homemade engraving machine, but also for designing other devices with numerical software. For example, using these recommendations, you can make an apparatus for coordinate boring of parts. Depending on the power of the machine, it can process workpieces from different materials (metal, wood, chipboard).

Good day, brain engineers! Today I will share with you a guide on how to how to do a laser cutter with a power of 3W and a desktop 1.2x1.2 meters controlled by an Arduino microcontroller.

This brain trick was born to create a pixel art coffee table. It was necessary to cut the material into cubes, but manually it is difficult, and through an online service it is very expensive. Then this 3-watt cutter / engraver for thin materials appeared, I will clarify that industrial cutters have a minimum power of about 400 watts. That is, light materials, such as polystyrene foam, cork sheets, plastic or cardboard, this cutter masters, but only engraves thicker and denser ones.

Step 1: Materials

Arduino R3
Proto Board - display board
stepper motors
3-watt laser
laser cooling
power unit
DC-DC regulator
MOSFET transistor
motor control boards
Limit switches
case (large enough to fit almost all list items)
timing belts
ball bearings 10mm
pulleys for toothed belts
ball bearings
2 boards 135x10x2 cm
2 boards 125x10x2 cm
4 smooth rods with a diameter of 1cm
various bolts and nuts
screws 3.8cm
lubricant
clamps
computer
a circular saw
screwdriver
various drills
sandpaper
vise

Step 2: Wiring Diagram

Laser circuit homemade informatively presented in the photo, there are only a few clarifications.

Stepper motors: I think you noticed that two motors are started from one control board. This is necessary so that one side of the belt does not lag behind the other, that is, the two motors work synchronously and maintain the tension of the toothed belt, which is necessary for high-quality work. crafts.

Laser power: When setting the DC-DC regulator, make sure that the laser is supplied with a constant voltage that does not exceed the specifications of the laser, otherwise you will simply burn it. My laser is rated at 5V and 2.4A, so the regulator is set to 2A and the voltage is slightly below 5V.

MOSFET transistor: this is an important part of this brain crafts, since it is this transistor that turns the laser on and off, receiving a signal from the Arduino. Since the current from the microcontroller is very weak, only this MOSFET transistor can perceive it and lock or unlock the laser power circuit, other transistors simply do not respond to such a low-current signal. The MOSFET is mounted between the laser and ground from the DC regulator.

Cooling: When building my laser cutter, I ran into the problem of cooling the laser diode to avoid overheating. The problem was solved by installing a computer fan, with which the laser functioned perfectly even when working for 9 hours in a row, and a simple radiator could not cope with the cooling task. I also installed coolers next to the motor control boards, as they also get quite warm, even if the cutter is not working, but just turned on.

Step 3: Assembly

The attached files contain a 3D model of a laser cutter showing the dimensions and assembly principle of the desktop frame.

Shuttle design: it consists of one shuttle responsible for the Y axis, and two twin shuttles responsible for the X axis. The Z axis is not needed, since this is not a 3D printer, but instead the laser will turn on and off alternately, that is, the Z axis is replaced by the pierce depth . I tried to reflect all the dimensions of the shuttle structure in the photo, I will only clarify that all the mounting holes for the rods in the sides and shuttles are 1.2 cm deep.

Guide rods: steel rods (although aluminum is preferable, but steel is easier to get), a fairly large diameter of 1 cm, but this thickness of the rod will avoid sagging. The factory grease has been removed from the rods, and the rods themselves have been carefully sanded with a grinder and sandpaper to perfect smoothness for good glide. And after grinding, the rods are treated with white lithium grease, which prevents oxidation and improves glide.

Belts and stepper motors: To install the stepper motors and timing belts, I used the usual tools and materials that came to hand. First, the motors and ball bearings are mounted, and then the belts themselves. As a bracket for the engines, a sheet of metal was used, approximately the same in width and twice as long as the engine itself. This sheet has 4 holes drilled for mounting on the engine and two for mounting on the body homemade, the sheet is bent at an angle of 90 degrees and screwed to the body with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side of the engine mounting point, a bearing system is similarly installed, consisting of a bolt, two ball bearings, a washer and a metal sheet. A hole is drilled in the center of this sheet, with which it is attached to the body, then the sheet is folded in half and a hole is drilled in the center of both halves to install the bearing system. A toothed belt is put on the engine-bearing pair thus obtained, which is attached to the wooden base of the shuttle with an ordinary self-tapping screw. This process is more clearly shown in the photo.

Step 4: Soft

Fortunately, the software for this brain crafts free and open source. Everything you need is in the links below:

In and all that I wanted to tell you about my laser cutter / engraver. Thank you for attention!

good luck homemade!

Engraving on metal is always eye-catching. This craft has fed artisans since ancient times. And today it has not lost its relevance. Craftsmen can turn household items into real works of high art by decorating them with whimsical miniatures. Sometimes you can see whole paintings of considerable size, made by engravers. And few people know that absolutely everyone can do this business.

Photo 1. Souvenir engraved hunting knife, ideally a good gift that can be given to hunters.

Do-it-yourself engraving can be a profitable and interesting business if you really want it.

You can decorate small metal objects by do-it-yourself engraving at home. This occupation will cause respect and envy of friends and acquaintances. In Zlatoust, thousands of craftsmen do this craft at home. Engraved things are expensive. Saber - about 300 thousand rubles, a hunting knife - up to 100 thousand (photo No. 1). Agree, this is good money. How to engrave on metal at home with your own hands? For this lesson, you need to prepare the simplest equipment that can be found in any house, in any apartment.

We start experiments

Decorative patterns are applied by engraving to plates, knives, pistols, sabers, medals, cups, apartment numbers. All patterns and inscriptions are preserved almost forever and do not require expensive and rare consumables and special equipment for execution. The pattern can be applied to steel, aluminum, brass, copper, metal alloys. The method does not pollute the environment. It is impossible to wash off or erase the drawing by the usual methods and means.

Photo 2. Engraved wedding rings, they usually write the date of the wedding and the initials of the bride and groom.

1. Nail polish, which the wife does not really need.
2. Toothpick with sharp tips.
3. You may need an ordinary match.
4. Salt.
5. Charger for car battery. It can be successfully replaced with a mobile phone charger.
6. Glass or porcelain dishes in the form of a glass, mug or jar.
7. Nail polish remover.

The work is done in the following order:

1. A spoon is taken and covered with nail polish. The entire surface must be varnished very carefully, otherwise there will be a marriage in the work.
2. With a match or a toothpick, a pattern, a name, another image is scratched through a layer of varnish.
3. Pour 2 tablespoons of salt into a glass glass or jar. Some pour a spoonful of salt and a spoonful of soda.
4. Water is poured into the vessel, the salt is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved.
5. We connect a car or other charger with a positive terminal to the workpiece, a minus - to any metal object that will be placed in a vessel with water. This object can be another spoon, a piece of thick wire, a metal plate.
6. The rectifier is connected to the network. Almost immediately, an etching reaction will begin in the glass with a darkening of the liquid. It lasts 1-5 minutes. It depends on the amount of current. The product is checked periodically. After reaching the desired depth of etching, it is removed from the container.
7. The varnish is washed off with nail polish remover. The result should look something like this (photo #3).

Photo 3. Named engraved spoons and what is interesting, engraving can be done on various metal objects in a simple home environment.

In this way, you can process any metal objects at home. If you make an inscription with varnish, then it will be convex on the etched background. For better work, it is recommended to purchase a special tool - an engraver. It can work from the mains and from built-in batteries. The kit usually comes with drills of various shapes. They can work on glass, plastics and other materials. Engraved wedding rings are a great gift for newlyweds (photo #2). But you can do it yourself only when you are completely sure of the result of the work.

Back to index

Engraving on glass

Photo 4. For home engraving, you will need regular salt, nail polish, nail polish cleaner and a glass of water.

Do-it-yourself engraving on the glass surface is carried out by chemical and mechanical means. The mechanical method involves the use of a nozzle, which is driven by an electric motor. Procedure:

1. With a dark marker, the drawing is transferred to the glass.
2. A damp sponge is applied to the image on the glass. This must be done carefully so as not to smear the drawing.
3. Protective goggles must be worn when working.
4. After completing the drawing, it is washed and viewed for gaps. If necessary, missed places are processed again.

Return