How to make a powerful electric motor with your own hands. Do-it-yourself electric motor: instructions for assembling a homemade mechanism

Making an electric motor from what you have at hand is not at all difficult.

I came across the idea for such a motor on the website www.crafters.ucoz.ru As you can see in the photo above, for the motor we will need adhesive tape, a couple of pins, a magnet, a battery and a piece of copper wire.

Instead of a regular battery, it is better to take a battery because the battery charge for such an electric motor will not last long. Take copper wire and wind 30-50 turns around the battery.

Secure the ends of the wire to the opposite edges of the resulting rotor; they will serve as the axis. They can be tied in a knot.

Clean both ends of the wire from the varnish insulation with sandpaper or a knife.

Now take a battery, tape and pins, attach the pins with tape to the battery contacts, insert the prepared copper rotor into the ears of the pins.

ATTENTION! At this moment, the circuit of our rotor closes the battery contacts and it is not recommended to keep this structure in a “quiet” position for a long time! The battery electrolyte can get very hot, so do not make the rotor less than 30 turns, the more the better (more resistance). Now place a magnet under the rotor on the battery, it will “stick” to the battery itself. The rotor will begin to rotate quickly.

The rotor should not touch the magnet and it would be even better if the magnet is at a distance of 5-10 mm from the rotor. Try the magnet in different positions, rotate it, try to move it away from the copper rotor, achieve maximum rotation speed.

This is the simplest example of an electric motor, we went through its circuit more than once in physics lessons at school, but for some reason we were never shown this simple and interesting design :) Let's watch a video of how this homemade motor works.

[video lost by rutube]

You will need

— battery holder with contacts;
- magnet;
— battery or AA size battery;
— 1 meter of wire with enamel insulation, diameter 0.8-1 mm;
- 0.3 meters of bare wire, with a diameter of 0.8-1 mm.

Instructions

Start building an electric motor by winding a coil. To do this you need a wire that has enamel insulation. Wind the wire in even turns. This is quite difficult to do, so use a base such as a battery. Leave 5cm of wire free at each end. Wind about 20 turns onto the warp you are using. The winding should not be very tight, but at the same time, winding it too loosely will not work. Remove the resulting coil from the frame. Do this very carefully, being careful not to damage the winding. Twist the ends of the wire left free around the turns obtained during winding. This is necessary so that the coil retains its shape. Place the turns obtained during winding exactly opposite each other. Leave about 1cm of wire. Due to these ends, the coil will be placed on the holders. To improve the performance of the electric motor, strip the insulation at the ends of the wire from which the coil is made. There's a little trick here. Remove insulation from only one side of each end. For example, only from the upper half of the ends of the wire.
the lower part should remain insulated. Most importantly, make sure that the insulated edges are down at both ends of the coil. Make the holders on which the coil will be located from wire without insulation. Externally, they look like a wire, bent in half, with a loop. The ends left when winding the coil will be inserted into this loop. Simply bend a piece of wire 15cm long in half, wrapping it around a nail in the middle. Make the base of the electric motor from a battery holder. It has a certain weight and will keep your engine from vibrating while running. Now start assembling the engine. Attach the holders to the battery. Insert it into the battery holder. Place the reel on the holders. Place a magnet on the battery. Has the reel started to spin? This means everything was done correctly.

If you want to stop the motor, remove the coil from the holders. This will open the circuit and the engine will stop running.

Sources:

how to make an electric motor with your own hands

www.kakprosto.ru

How to make an electric motor with your own hands

Let's look at some design aspects. We do not promise to make a perpetual motion machine, like the one attributed to Tesla, but we will still tell you something interesting. We will also not bother readers with various paper clips and batteries, but instead suggest we talk about how you can adapt an existing motor to suit your purposes. It is known that there are many designs, and they are all used somewhere, but modern literature leaves such basic principles behind. Therefore, we studied the textbook of the last century on how to make an electric motor with our own hands, and now we offer to plunge into the kind of knowledge that forms the basis for any specialist.

Why are commutator motors often used in everyday life?

Commutator motor type

If we take one phase at 220V, then the principle of operation of the electric motor on the collector allows us to produce devices that are 2-3 times less massive than would be the case using an asynchronous design. This is very important in the manufacture of devices such as hand blenders, mixers of various kinds, and even meat grinders. But among other things, it is difficult to accelerate an asynchronous motor above 3000 rpm, while for commutator motors there is no such limitation. And this makes them the only ones suitable for implementing designs for centrifugal juicers, not to mention vacuum cleaners, where the speed is often no lower.

And the question of how to make an electric motor speed controller disappears. The problem was solved long ago by cutting off part of the supply voltage sinusoid cycle. This becomes possible because it makes no difference to the commutator motor whether it is powered by alternating or direct current. In the first case, the characteristics drop, but this is tolerated due to the obvious benefits. This is why the commutator-type electric motor works in both the washing machine and the dishwasher. Although the speeds there are very different.

It's very easy to get reverse. To do this, simply change the polarity of the voltage on one of the windings (if you touch both, the direction of rotation will remain the same). Another question is how to make an engine that has so many components. We’ll talk a little about this topic, although it’s unlikely that anyone will be able to make a collector with their own hands, but winding it again and choosing a stator is quite possible. It should be immediately noted that the rotation speed depends on the number of rotor sections (as well as on the amplitude of the supply voltage). Whereas the stator has only two poles.

Finally, it is by using this design that it is possible to create a universal device. The engine runs without problems on both AC and DC current. They simply make a tap on the winding, and when turned on from the rectified voltage, all the turns are used, and when the voltage is sinusoidal, only part of them is used. This allows you to save the nominal parameters. We would not say that making a primitive commutator-type electric motor will be a simple task, but you can completely adapt the parameters to your needs. And this is a great thing, because it is unlikely that we took up such a task to see how a copper spiral spins around an AAA battery.

In a brushed motor there are usually not many poles on the stator. To be more precise, there are two of them - northern and southern. The magnetic field, as opposed to asynchronous motors, does not rotate here. Instead, the position of the poles on the rotor changes. This state of affairs is ensured by the fact that the brushes gradually move along the sections of the copper drum. Special winding of the coils ensures proper distribution. The poles seem to slide around the rotor, pushing it in the desired direction.

That is why, to ensure reverse mode, it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply to any winding. The rotor in this case is called the armature, and the stator is called the exciter. The beauty is that these circuits can be connected either in parallel to each other or in series. And this will significantly change the characteristics of the device. This is all described by the so-called mechanical characteristics, take a look at the attached drawing to get an idea of what we are talking about. Here, rather roughly, graphs are shown for two cases:

Graph of changes in device characteristics

When the exciter (stator) and armature (rotor) of a commutator motor are powered in parallel with direct current, its mechanical characteristic is almost horizontal. This means that when the load on the shaft changes, the rated shaft speed is practically maintained. This is used on processing machines, where a change in speed would not have the best effect on quality. As a result, the part rotates when touched by the cutter as quickly as at the start.
if the hindering moment increases too much, then the movement stalls. The engine stops. For us, from all this we need to extract the following: if you want to use a motor from a vacuum cleaner to create a metalworking (lathe) machine, then the windings should be connected in parallel. Because in household appliances another type of switching dominates. But this was done for a reason. When the windings are powered in parallel with alternating current, too much inductive reactance is formed. Therefore, this technique should be used with caution.
When the rotor and stator are powered in series, the commutator motor has a wonderful property - high torque at the start. This quality is actively used for moving trams, trolleybuses and, most likely, electric trains. The main thing is that when the load increases, the speed does not drop. But if you start the commutator motor in this mode at idle, the shaft rotation speed will increase immensely. If the power is low - tens of W - there is nothing to worry about: the friction force of the bearings and brushes, as well as the increase in induction currents and the phenomenon of magnetization reversal of the core, together will slow down the growth at a certain value. But in the case of industrial units or the same vacuum cleaner, when its engine is removed from the housing, the increase in speed occurs like an avalanche. In this case, the centrifugal force is so great that the loads can break the anchor. Be careful when starting series-wound brushed motors.

Commutator motors with parallel connection of stator and rotor windings are highly adjustable. By introducing a rheostat into the exciter circuit, the speed can be significantly increased. And if the same one is attached to the armature branch, then the rotation, on the contrary, will slow down. This is widely used in engineering to obtain the desired characteristics.

The design of a commutator motor and its connection with losses

When designing commutator motors, several considerations regarding losses must be taken into account. In this case, they come in three types:

Read also: How to connect a grounded outlet

Typically, when powering a commutator motor with alternating current, the windings are connected in series. Because otherwise you get too much inductive reactance.

To the above, we can add that when a commutator motor is powered with alternating current, the inductive reactance of the windings comes into play. That is why, at the same effective voltage, the speed will decrease. In addition, the stator poles and the housing will need to be somehow protected from magnetic losses. The need for this can be verified by a simple experiment: power a low-power brushed motor from a battery. His body will remain cold. But if you now apply alternating current with the same effective value (that is, according to the tester’s readings), then the picture will change. Now the housing of the commutator motor will begin to heat up.

Sketch of stator assembly in cross section and side view

That is why they even try to assemble the casing from sheets of electrical steel. By riveting it or gluing it using BF-2 or its analogues. Finally, let’s add one more statement: the sheets are collected along a cross section. Very often the stator is assembled according to the sketch shown in the figure. In this case, the coil is wound separately according to a template, and then insulated and put in place. This helps simplify assembly. As for the methods, the easiest way would be to cut the steel on a plasma machine, and it is better not to think about how much it will cost.

The easiest way is to find (in a landfill, garage, etc.) a ready-made form for assembly. And then wind coils of copper wire with varnish insulation under it. To do this, the diameter obviously must be larger. First, the finished coil is pulled onto one protrusion of the core, and then onto the other. Then the wire is pressed so that a small air gap remains at the ends. It is believed that this is not critical. To keep it all in place, the sharp corners of the two outer plates are cut off, and the remaining core is bent outward, pressing the ends of the coil outward. This will help assemble the engine the way it is usually done in factories.

Is it difficult to make an electric motor with your own hands?

To understand how to make an electric motor with your own hands, you need to remember how it works and how it works.

If you follow the instructions step by step, it is not so difficult to make an electric motor yourself. The motor will serve for your projects.

The cost of manufacturing an electric motor will be minimal, since you can make an electric motor with your own hands using available materials.

Materials

First of all, you need to stock up on the necessary materials:

bolts;
bicycle spoke;
nuts;
electrical tape;
copper wire;
metal plate;
super and hot glue;
plywood;
washers.

You can’t do without these tools:

electric drills;
stationery knife;
pliers;
grinding machine;
hammer;
scissors;
soldering iron;
tweezers;
sewed

Manufacturing process

You need to start making an electric motor with your own hands by making five plates, in which you later need to drill a hole in the center using an electric drill and put it on an axle - a bicycle spoke.

Pressing the plates tightly against each other, secure their ends with electrical tape, cutting off the excess with a utility knife. If the axles are uneven, they need to be sharpened.

When electric current passes through the coil, the latter creates a magnetic field around itself, which is no different from the field of a conventional magnet, but disappears when the current is turned off. This property can be used to attract and release metal objects by turning the current on and off.

As an experiment, you can make a circuit consisting of a button and an electromagnet, which this button will help you turn on and off.

The circuit is powered by a 12V computer power supply. If an axis with plates is installed next to an electromagnet and the current is turned on, they will be attracted and one of their sides will turn towards the electromagnet.

If the current is first turned on and turned off at the moment when the plates are as close as possible to the electromagnet, then they will fly past it by inertia, making a revolution.

If you constantly guess the moment and turn on the current, they will rotate. In order to do this at the right time, a current breaker is needed.

Current breaker manufacturing

Again you will need a small plate, which you need to secure to the axle, pressing it with pliers so that the fastening is secure. This video will help you understand what it should look like:

Video: How to make an electric motor

One of the contacts is connected to a metal plate, and an axis is installed on top of it. Since the axle, plate and breaker are metal, current will flow through them. By touching the contact of the breaker, the circuit can be closed and opened, which will allow the electromagnet to be connected and disconnected at the right time.

The resulting rotating structure, made by hand, is called an armature in DC electric motors, and a stationary electromagnet interacting with the armature is called an inductor.

The armature in AC motors is called the rotor, and the inductor is called the stator. The names are sometimes confused, but this is wrong.

Frame making

This must be done so that you do not hold the electric motor structure with your hands. The material for making the base is plywood.

DIY inductor

We will make two holes in the plywood for an M6 bolt 25 mm long, on which we will later place the electric motor coils. Screw nuts onto the bolts and cut out three parts to connect the bolts (supports).

The supports have two functions: the axis of the armature of a self-made electric motor will rest on them, and secondly, they will serve as a magnetic circuit that will connect the bolts. You need to make holes for them (by eye, since this does not require much precision). The plates are connected together and placed from below, pressing with bolts. By placing it on the coil bolts we get a kind of horseshoe magnet.

To secure the electric motor armature in a vertical position, you need to make a frame from sheet metal (bracket). We drill three holes in it: one along the diameter of the axis and two on the sides for screws (for fastening).

Making coils

To make them, you will need a strip of cardboard and thin paper (see dimensions in the drawing). Having removed the bolt from the base, we wrap a thick strip of 4-5 layers around it, securing it with 2 layers of electrical tape. The strip stays on quite tightly. Carefully remove it to wind the wire.

After the wire is wound, we take out the paper from the inside with tweezers, cut off the excess layers so that the coil fits easily onto the bolt. We cut off the excess from the coil, taking into account the fact that there will still be cheeks at the top and bottom, which are necessary so that the wire does not slip during operation of the electric motor. In the same way, we make the second coil with our own hands and proceed to making the cheeks.

How to make cheeks with your own hands?

We place thick paper on the nut, and punch a hole on top with a bolt. It's easy to do. Then put the paper on the bolt, place a washer on top and cut it out, after tracing it with a pencil. It turns out to be similar in shape to a washer.

In total, you need to make 4 such parts to install on the bolt from above and below. We screw the nut onto the upper cheek, placing a metal washer and fix both cheeks with hot glue. The frame, which you made yourself, is ready.

Now all that remains is to wind varnished wire (500 turns) with a diameter of 0.2 mm around it. We twist the beginning and end of the wire so that it does not unwind. After unscrewing the nut, removing the bolt, what remains is a beautiful little coil.

We remove the varnish from the ends of the wire using a utility knife, tin it, and install it on the bolt. You need to do the same with the second coil.

To prevent the plates and the current breaker from rotating on the axis, it is recommended to glue them with superglue.

Now let's connect the coils in series to check the operation of the electric motor. We connect the plus to the beginning of the winding (from the side of the bolt head). Using a sliding contact, we find the position in which the electric motor operates most efficiently.

In electric motors, such contacts are called brushes. To avoid holding the latter with your hands, you need brush holders that are glued with superglue, lubricating the friction points of the axle with oil.

By connecting the coils in parallel, we will increase the current (since the coils have resistance), therefore, the power of the electric motor will increase. That is, you can imagine the coils as resistances.

And when they are connected in parallel, the total resistance decreases, which means the current increases. When connected in series, everything happens exactly the opposite.

And, since the current through the coil increases, the magnetic field is greater, and the armature of the electric motor is more strongly attracted to the electromagnet.

Video: Electric motor in a few minutes

Interesting materials:

How to assemble a simple electric motor at home?

We continue to discover new useful electronic homemade products for you and today we will tell you how to make a motor from a battery, copper wire and a magnet. Such a mini electric motor can be used as a fake on the table of a home electrician. Assembling it is quite simple, so if you are interested in this type of activity, then we will provide detailed instructions with photo and video examples so that assembling a simple motor is understandable and accessible to everyone!

Step 1 – Prepare materials

To make the simplest magnetic motor with your own hands, you will need the following available materials:

1.5 Volt battery;
working holder with contacts for a AA battery (as in the photo below);
small magnet;
a piece of enameled copper wire, 1 mm in diameter (assembly will require no more than 80 cm);
30 cm of bare wire, 1 mm in diameter.

Having prepared all the necessary materials, you can proceed to assembling a perpetual electric motor. Making a small electric motor at home is not difficult, as you will now see!

Step 2 – Assembling the homemade product

So, to make the instructions clear to you, it’s better to look at it step by step with pictures that will help you visually understand the principle of operation of a mini electric motor.

We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you can invent the design of a homemade small engine in your own way. For example, below we will provide you with several video lessons that may help you make your own version of the engine from a battery, copper wire and a magnet.

What to do if the homemade product does not work?

If suddenly you have assembled a perpetual electric motor with your own hands, but it does not rotate, do not rush to get upset. Most often, the reason for the motor not rotating is that the distance between the magnet and the coil is too large. In this case, you just need to trim the legs a little yourself, on which the rotating part rests.

That's the whole technology for assembling a homemade magnetic electric motor at home. If you watched the video lessons, you are probably convinced that you can make an engine from a battery, copper wire and a magnet with your own hands in different ways. We hope that the instructions were interesting and useful for you!

It will be useful to know:

autofluids.ru

Features and benefits of the device

The name “electric motor” contains the essence of the device it denotes. An electric motor for boats means a unit that drives a boat due to the movement of the blades. Its action is based on physical laws. A special feature of electric motors is the resource they consume to perform their functions.

Today, fuel-powered boat engines are common throughout the world. An electric motor for a boat, unlike similar units, operates by consuming electricity rather than gasoline. There is a widespread belief among some boat owners that such devices are ineffective. However, it is wrong. When properly designed, an electric motor can provide sufficient traction to propel a boat through the water at normal speed.

In addition, a homemade engine has a number of advantages, for example:

The final costs of creating such a device will be significantly lower than the market value of factory gasoline engines and electric motors.
The country's environmental legislation strictly regulates the use of electric motors for boats. These rules do not apply to homemade units.
The device operates with virtually no noise. This feature will be especially useful for fishermen, because any loud sounds can scare off a potential catch.
Electricity is cheaper than fuel materials. In addition, devices equipped with internal combustion engines consume incomparably more resources than homemade electric motors.
The boat owner has the opportunity to independently select the power of the unit that is suitable for him. The basis of a homemade motor is a drill or other devices. The characteristics of the future engine depend on their power. Which device the master chooses, these will be the performance of the electric motor.

Creating a homemade electric motor is quite simple. It is enough to strictly follow the instructions. However, you will need certain materials and tools. There shouldn't be any problems accessing them. Most of the necessary tools are already available to any owner. All materials can be found freely available in retail outlets. It is easy to find the drawings necessary for the work.

Materials and tools

When selecting equipment, you need to pay attention to two things: power and voltage. These parameters are fundamental, and the quality of operation of the finished electric motor depends on them. The power depends on the selected drill (in this case this tool is taken as the basis), so first of all you need to select this equipment.

When selecting a drill, you need to focus on its power. This figure must exceed one hundred and fifty watts. It is not worth taking a tool with lesser characteristics. In this case, the finished device will not work effectively in moving water (that is, it will not be possible to swim with such a unit on the river). It is best to use a cordless hammer drill.

The hammer drill is equipped with reverse and has several operating modes. This circumstance is important for the motor that will move the watercraft, since it will allow in the future to control the speed of the electric motor.

The second important parameter is voltage. Eighteen volt batteries should not be used. They are difficult to find and expensive. The best choice would be a drill that operates at ten or twelve volts. Such a battery is comparatively cheaper, and, most importantly, it is much easier to find on sale.

After choosing the optimal equipment, you can collect materials. To create an engine you must first acquire:

An electric drill that will act as a motor.
Clamps with which the drill will be attached.
Gearbox. You can use an element from an angle grinder if you intend to install the motor on the transom of the boat.
Round tubes with a diameter of twenty millimeters.
Profiled pipes (20*20 millimeters).
A round metal rod. It will be used to create an electric motor shaft.
Sheet metal from which the screws will be made.

You will also need some tools:

scissors for cutting metal;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
electric drill with a set of drills;
self-tapping screws with a screwdriver if wood will be used to create the motor.

After all the elements have been collected, you can begin to create an electric boat motor with your own hands. The whole procedure consists of several stages. Work should begin by creating a lifting mechanism for the impeller. In order for the future device to work properly, it is recommended to carefully follow the instructions provided below.

Creation of an electric motor

As mentioned earlier, you need to start making an electric motor with your own hands by creating a lifting mechanism for the impeller. It will allow you to lift this element above the water. To create it, you need to weld a metal tube to pre-prepared clamps.

You must first attach a base to this tube (a frame shaped like a pyramid, with its smaller base pointing in the direction of the water). A frame is attached to a large base, and another tube is welded to the lower edge. A bearing is installed on the frame. The shaft must be passed through it and the tube welded at the bottom.

You can use a tube or wire as a shaft. However, the first option is more successful:

firstly, bearings can be attached to the tube (at both ends), which will reduce the friction force;
secondly, it is desirable that this shaft be thin but strong. In the case of wire, you will have to use a large diameter product.

After all actions are completed, you can move on to the next stage. The next step is to install the gearbox and propellers.

Gearbox/propeller

It is recommended to attach gearboxes to the sides of the shaft. It is advisable to first create them yourself, focusing on the parameters of the electric motor. However, this process can take a very long time. Therefore, you can buy a device or use gearboxes installed on an angle grinder.

Depending on the specific engine, one or two gearboxes may be needed. When choosing a device, you need to focus on one basic rule - it is desirable that the transmitting number be small. It is optimal if the gearbox is capable of reducing the speed by 5 times. This will ensure the normal running of the boat.

The lower gearbox is necessary for horizontal mounting of the screw. If you use a gearbox from a tool such as an angle grinder, it will be enough to clamp it in a drill chuck. Elements of other devices can also be used as a propeller. If there is none, you can make a homemade screw. To do this you need:

Cut a square (the length of one side is thirty centimeters).
Drill a hole in its center.
Make slits diagonally (the distance between the slits should be at least five centimeters).
The resulting blades must be given a rounded appearance. It is important that the size of the blades is the same, otherwise third-party vibrations may occur.

The propeller can be secured to the shaft using a bolt and nut. It was for this purpose that a hole was made in the center of the metal sheet.

Latest improvements

Next, you need to connect the gearbox to the motor, that is, to the drill. This is easy to do - just clamp the gearbox in the drill chuck, as mentioned earlier. If the base does not match the size of the drill, you must use an additional tube.

The tube must be placed tightly onto the shaft. To prevent the latter from rotating in it, reliable fixation is needed. This can be achieved by making a through hole in the tube and shaft. Next, both elements must be secured with a pin. This fixation will prevent rotational movements of the shaft.

After the device is ready, the homemade boat electric motor must be checked. It is enough to fill the bathtub with water and start the electric motor in it. If pressure is felt by hand, the engine is operating normally. You can attach it to a boat and test it in a body of water.

Motor control and other design options for its creation

Although the electric motor is ready, it is not yet capable of cornering. In order not to turn with the help of oars, it is necessary to make minor modifications to the design. It is enough to attach a bolt to the central part of the mount, onto which you then put a pipe. This will make it possible to make turns by changing the position of the base and, accordingly, the electric motor.

You can weld another handle to the base, connecting it to a regulator responsible for supplying current to the motor. It would be advisable to use a rheostat. However, in this case, you will have to slightly change the drill itself by connecting the motor located in its body to a rheostat. This will allow you to create a more functional design.

Screwdriver as a motor

There are several ways to make an electric motor. Instead of a drill, you can use a screwdriver. In design, it is almost no different from a device with a drill. A distinctive feature of the product is its lower maintenance cost. So, one twelve-volt battery will be enough to operate the device for six hours. However, you will have to sacrifice speed due to less power.

In order for a sailing vessel to move faster, larger pitch propellers can be used. In addition, as in the previous case, the electric motor based on the screwdriver can be equipped with handles that make it easier to control.

Trimer electric motor

A trimer is also perfect for this purpose. The process of creating a motor using this device will be significantly easier. The only thing the technician will need to do is shorten the length of the device and attach a screw to it. There is no need to mount the gearbox.

There is also no need to modify the control and system responsible for powering the motor. The only difficulty that may arise along the way is the problem of attaching the device to the boat. Especially for the inflatable one. But it can also be solved.

As an electric motor, you can use the units that power the windshield washers, or a simple electric motor. In the latter case, power supply difficulties may arise, since standard motors operate on an alternating voltage of two hundred and twenty volts. The problem is solved by installing an inverter.

Thus, the owner of the watercraft can create an electric motor for the boat with his own hands. You don't need any special skills for this. You just need to purchase the necessary materials and prepare some tools. It is recommended to use a drill with a power of more than one hundred and fifty watts as a motor. This indicator will allow you to move the boat both in still water and along the river.
In addition to a drill, you can use a trimmer or a conventional electric motor. Another option is an electric motor based on a screwdriver. Such a device is cheaper to maintain, but problems may arise with the speed of movement of the craft.

Who would have thought that a simple inverter could be made without the use of transistors, microcircuits and complex circuits. Last time I showed . As it turns out, this is not the only way to build an inverter. I will show how you can convert electrical energy from 12 V DC to 220 V AC.

What will you need?

Step-up transformer. Naturally, before it worked as a buck, but we will use it in reverse. Such transformers can be found in receivers, electronic watches, and old tape recorders.

Inverter assembly

In fact, our circuit consists of only three parts connected in series to each other. This is a transformer connected to the circuit with a low-resistance winding (the high-resistance winding is the output of the inverter). Batteries - batteries or accumulators. And a switching element, in the role of which an electric motor will be used, which can be removed from broken children's toys.

Here's the motor itself. You can’t just insert it into the circuit - it won’t perform switching. We need to refine it.

To do this, we disassemble the motor.

We remove the back part, first bending the holders.

The anchor needs to be improved. This consists of disconnecting one winding from the contacts. To do this, we cut off the wires of any one winding.

We assemble the motor.

After such modification, the motor will not be able to rotate fully, since one winding will be turned off. But if you start it by hand, then the motor has enough power to maintain rotation. And the absence of one winding will periodically break the power circuit between the power elements and the transformer, where the motor is connected in series.
We connect it to the circuit.

We connect a multimeter to the output of the transformer. Then turn on the power. It happens that the motor starts on its own, but usually it doesn’t. Then we start the shaft by hand, turning it lightly.

The inverter is working! The multimeter readings jump from zero to about 250 V. This is normal, since this is a technical inverter for powering primitive devices.

We try to connect the charger. Everything works fine - the phone is charging.

We connect the light bulb - the lamp shines.

Of course, there is no need to talk about the quality of the converted energy, but in difficult life situations such a craft may well come in handy.

Many deep water fishing enthusiasts prefer to install motors on boats. Making an electric boat motor with your own hands is quite simple and cost-effective. This is caused by the high (one might even say prohibitive) cost of modern boat engines. The price of some is comparable to the cost of a car. It is not profitable to purchase an old outboard motor that has been used frequently. It costs a lot, but bringing it into working condition will require a lot of effort and money.

An electric boat motor can be purchased either in a specialized store or made on your own using various devices and tools.

Operating principles of electric motors

Despite the development of technology and production, a boat motor remains a rather expensive thing that not every owner of a small boat can afford. The lower price limit for the cost of a new motor is about 30,000 rubles, while the upper limit can reach the same figures, only in dollars. Therefore, a homemade electric motor for a boat based on electric motors from various household devices is a good solution that will save money. In addition, you will gain good experience in design.

Electric motors have a number of advantages over other types of motors:

The electric motor is the most common type of motor and can be found almost everywhere.
They make little noise when operating (compared to internal combustion engines), which is especially important when fishing.
They are safe to use. Low probability of fire, do not explode.
Cheapness. Asynchronous electric motors are the cheapest motors that exist.

Disadvantages of electric motors:

The electric motor is afraid of water; accordingly, it should not be in water and should not be flooded.
The speed when sailing on a boat with a motor should be about 7-10 km/h under load. Therefore, the minimum engine power should be at least 1.75-2 hp.
You should think about power sources in advance. Since the electric motor requires electricity, you should purchase batteries in advance and prepare a place in the boat for their installation. If you have the funds, you can purchase a generating solar panel that can be installed on top of the batteries and connected to them. Important: the solar panel should not be the only source of energy, it must work in conjunction with batteries (which may be the only sources of energy). You should take into account the weight of the batteries (they are quite heavy) and after installing them, do not overload the boat.
Determine the operating conditions. For example, speed will naturally drop if you swim against a current or wave, or in a strong headwind. It is important to determine the purpose of installing the engine. If the main goal is to sail “race” with other boats, then an electric motor will not be suitable for this purpose. If sailing under unfavorable conditions (wind, waves, currents), you should take an engine with a power reserve.

When the necessary technical requirements are formulated, you can proceed to the implementation of the project. It's worth starting with calculations.

How to calculate parameters

The first thing you should pay attention to when calculating engine power is the conversion of units of measurement from one system to another. Often, when calculating the power of a propulsion system on boats, horsepower is used, and the power of all electric motors is indicated in watts. To convert watts to hp. it should be remembered that 1 kW = 1.36 hp. or 0.74 kW = 1 hp.

To calculate power, please refer to GOST 19105-79. To calculate power, you should measure the length of the waterline, deadrise, side height and the maximum possible weight of the boat (weight of the boat + weight of all passengers + weight of the engine, power supplies + weight of equipment and equipment). The 1 HP formula will work for most boats. per 25 kg weight. For punt, PVC and planing boats, the calculation formula is 1 hp. for 35 kg of weight. For example, consider the option with a two-seater PVC boat.

The weight of the boat is about 25 kg. Weight of 2 adults: 80x2 = 160 kg. The weight of the motor and batteries is about 20 kg. In addition, the weight of the equipment is about 15 kg. The result is: 25 + 160 + 20 + 15 = 220 kg. Motor power is 220/35 = 6.3 hp. Let's convert horsepower to watts: 6.3 * 0.74 = 4.66 kW.

The capacity of the battery is calculated using the formula: P/(Uх0.7), where 0.7 is the battery charge coefficient (since it is not possible to charge the battery 100%). Actually, for 5 kW and 12 volt power supply, 5000/(12x0.7) = 595 Ah is required. Let's round it up to 600. This battery will keep the engine running for 1 hour. If there is no battery of such capacity, then you can take 2 x 300 A*h, 3 x 200 A*h or 6 x 100 A*h and connect them in parallel. If it is necessary to ensure the engine operates for a longer time, then the resulting ampere-hours are multiplied by the number of operating hours.

Necessary materials

Once the calculations have been made, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and materials. To make a motor you will need:

Electric motor. It can be removed from various household tools or purchased from appliance repair shops. Motors from a screwdriver, drill, grinder, circular saw, etc. can be used. If the power of the selected engine is less than necessary (for example, if you take a screwdriver engine), then you should take 2 or 3 pieces of the same power from several screwdrivers. Several pieces should be connected in parallel, and it is not necessary to mount them on one bracket.
Batteries. Selected by ampere hours. How to do this is described above.
Materials for the bracket. Can be any. It is recommended to use PVC pipes as they are cheap, durable and easy to work with.
Gearbox. Can be used from household appliances or purchased separately.
Screw (propeller). You can remove it from an old Soviet fan (models with steel screws) or make it yourself.
Speed controller. There is no point in installing it on such a vessel, but if you wish, it is worth purchasing a mechanical one.
Clamps. Several pieces for attaching the bracket to the boat.
Consumables: glue, self-tapping screws, screws, tape, etc.

How the work is carried out

The first thing to do is attach it to the boat. It is made from clamps to which clamps are welded under PVC pipes so that the clamp of the clamp is fastened to the side of the boat. A PVC pipe must be inserted into the clamps, inside which there will be a shaft. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the side and should ensure that the propeller is immersed below the waterline (preferably with a margin of 10-15 cm) and raise the engine to a height inaccessible to waves. The diameter of the pipe must ensure free movement of the shaft. As a shaft, you can use any rod (preferably made of stainless steel) with drilled holes at the ends. Such a transmission shaft can be mounted on the engine shaft and on the propeller axis without transmission links. It is important to seal the lower end of the pipe with a sleeve.

Next you need to tackle the underwater part. You should use a PVC pipe of larger diameter (preferably a tee), in which the gearbox with the propeller shaft is installed. It must be attached to the rack by soldering to ensure a tight connection. The ends of the pipe with the gearbox installed are sealed with bushings or a thick layer of silicone (the first is preferable).

The propeller shaft outlet should be sealed. Next you need to connect the upper and lower gearboxes with a shaft.

At the final stage, a structure is made for installing the engine and gearbox (upper). The structure for installing the engine must be sealed on the water side (so that the engine does not flood), and on the boat side there must be ventilation holes and a power supply. Its dimensions and shape depend on the size of the engine and how it is mounted.

With such a motor you can safely go out into calm waters or calm seas.

Let's consider individual aspects of design. We will not promise the production of a perpetual motion machine, similar to the type of creation attributed to Tesla, but the story is expected to be interesting. We won’t bother readers with paper clips and batteries; we suggest we talk about how to adapt a ready-made motor for your own purposes. It is known that there are a lot of designs, all of them are used, but modern literature leaves the basic principles behind. The authors studied a textbook from the last century, learning how to make an electric motor with their own hands. Now we invite you to plunge into the knowledge that forms the basis of a specialist.

Why are commutator motors often used in everyday life?

If we take the 220V phase, the principle of operation of the electric motor on the collector allows us to produce devices 2-3 times less massive than when using an asynchronous design. This is important when making appliances: hand blenders, mixers, meat grinders. Among other things, it is difficult to accelerate an asynchronous motor above 3000 rpm; for commutator motors there is no such limitation. What makes the devices the only ones suitable for implementing designs of centrifugal juicers, not to mention vacuum cleaners, where the speed is often no lower.

The question of how to make an electric motor speed controller disappears. The problem was solved long ago by cutting off part of the supply voltage sinusoid cycle. This is possible, because it makes no difference to the commutator motor whether it is powered by alternating or direct current. In the first case, the characteristics drop, but the phenomenon is tolerated due to obvious benefits. The commutator type electric motor operates in both the washing machine and the dishwasher. Although the speeds are very different.

It's easy to reverse too. To do this, the polarity of the voltage on one winding changes (if both are touched, the direction of rotation will remain the same). Another problem is how to make an engine with a similar number of components. It is unlikely that you will be able to make the collector yourself, but rewinding it and selecting the stator is quite possible. Note that the rotation speed depends on the number of rotor sections (similar to the amplitude of the supply voltage). But the stator has only a couple of poles.

Finally, when using the specified design, it is possible to create a universal device. The engine runs easily on both alternating and direct current. They simply make a tap on the winding; when switched on, the entire turns are used from the rectified voltage, and when the voltage is sinusoidal, only a part is used. This allows you to save the nominal parameters. Making a primitive commutator-type electric motor does not look like a simple task, but you will be able to completely adapt the parameters to your own needs.

Features of operation of commutator motors

In a brushed motor there are not too many poles on the stator. To be more precise, there are only two - northern and southern. The magnetic field, as opposed to asynchronous motors, does not rotate here. Instead, the position of the poles on the rotor changes. This state of affairs is ensured by the fact that the brushes gradually move along the sections of the copper drum. Special winding of the coils ensures proper distribution. The poles seem to slide around the rotor, pushing it in the desired direction.

To ensure reverse mode, it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply of any winding. The rotor in this case is called the armature, and the stator is called the exciter. These circuits can be connected in parallel to each other or in series. And then the characteristics of the device will begin to change significantly. This is described by mechanical characteristics, take a look at the attached drawing to visualize what is claimed. Here are conditionally shown graphs for two cases:

When the exciter (stator) and armature (rotor) of a commutator motor are powered in parallel with direct current, its mechanical characteristic is almost horizontal. This means that when the load on the shaft changes, the rated shaft speed is maintained. This is used on processing machines, where changes in speed do not have the best effect on quality. As a result, the part rotates when it is touched by the cutter, as quickly as at the start. If the hindering moment increases too much, the movement stalls. The engine stops. Summary: if you want to use the motor from a vacuum cleaner to create a metalworking (lathe) machine, it is proposed to connect the windings in parallel, because a different type of connection dominates in household appliances. Moreover, the situation is understandable. When the windings are powered in parallel with alternating current, too much inductive reactance is formed. This technique should be used with caution.
When the rotor and stator are powered in series, the commutator motor has a wonderful property - high torque at the start. This quality is actively used for moving trams, trolleybuses and, probably, electric trains. The main thing is that when the load increases, the speed does not drop. If you start a commutator motor in this mode at idle, the shaft rotation speed will increase immensely. If the power is low - tens of W - there is no need to worry: the friction force of bearings and brushes, an increase in induction currents and the phenomenon of magnetization reversal of the core will together slow down the growth at a specific value. In the case of industrial units or the mentioned vacuum cleaner, when its engine is removed from the housing, the increase in speed occurs like an avalanche. The centrifugal force turns out to be so great that the loads can break the anchor. Be careful when starting commutator motors with series excitation.

Commutator motors with parallel connection of stator and rotor windings are highly adjustable. By introducing a rheostat into the exciter circuit, it is possible to significantly increase the speed. And if you attach one to the armature branch, the rotation, on the contrary, will slow down. This is widely used in technology to achieve the desired characteristics.

The design of a commutator motor and its connection with losses

When designing commutator motors, considerations regarding losses are taken into account. There are three types:

Typically, when powering a commutator motor with alternating current, the windings are connected in series. Otherwise, too much inductive reactance results.

To the above, we add that when a commutator motor is powered by alternating current, the inductive reactance of the windings comes into play. Therefore, at the same effective voltage, the speed will decrease. The stator poles and housing are protected from magnetic losses. The necessity of this can be easily verified by a simple experiment: power a low-power brushed motor from a battery. His body will remain cold. But if you now apply alternating current with the same current value (according to the tester’s readings), the picture will change. Now the housing of the commutator motor will begin to heat up.

Therefore, they even try to assemble the casing from sheets of electrical steel, riveting or gluing using BF-2 and analogues. Finally, let us supplement what has been said with the following statement: the sheets are assembled along a cross section. Often the stator is assembled according to the sketch shown in the figure. In this case, the coil is wound separately according to a template, then insulated and put back on, simplifying assembly. As for the methods, it is easier to cut steel on a plasma machine and not think about the cost of the event.

It’s easier to find (in a landfill, in a garage) a ready-made form for assembly. Then wind coils of copper wire with varnish insulation under it. Obviously the diameter is selected larger. First, the finished coil is pulled onto the first protrusion of the core, then onto the second. Press the wire so that a small air gap remains at the ends. It is believed that this is not critical. To keep it in place, the sharp corners of the two outer plates are cut off, the remaining core is bent outward, pressing the ends of the coil. This will help assemble the engine to factory standards.

Often (especially in blenders) there is an open stator core. This does not distort the shape of the magnetic field. Since there is only one pole, you can’t expect much power. The shape of the core resembles the letter P; a rotor rotates between the legs of the letter in a magnetic field. Circular slots are made in the right places for the device. It is not difficult to assemble such a stator yourself from an old transformer. This is easier than making an electric motor from scratch.

The core at the winding site is insulated with a steel sleeve, and on the sides - with dielectric flanges cut from any suitable plastic.