Stun gun— the device is very useful, but what is sold in the store will not protect you in real “combat” situations. It is worth recalling once again that according to GOST, civilians (mere mortals) cannot carry and use electroshock devices whose power exceeds 3 Watts. This is ridiculous power, which is only enough to scare away dogs and drunken winos, but not for defense.
An electroshock device must be highly effective in order to protect its owner in any situation, but alas... there are no such devices in the store.
So what to do in this case? The answer is simple - assemble a stun gun with your own hands at home. Some of you may be wondering: is it safe for attackers? It's safe if you know what to collect. In this article we will offer a shocker that has a titanic output power of 70 watts (130 watts at peak) and can kill any person in a split second.
In the passport data of industrial electroshock devices you can see the parameter - EFFECTIVE EXPOSURE TIME. This time directly depends on the power. For standard 3-watt shockers, the impact time is 3-4 seconds, but naturally no one has yet been able to hold it for 3 seconds, because due to the insignificant output power, the attacker will quickly figure out what’s wrong and attack again. In this situation, your life will be under threat and if there is nothing to defend yourself with, the consequences can be tragic.
Let's move on to assembling a stun gun with our own hands. But first, I want to say that this material presented on the Internet for the first time, the content is completely original, thank you good friend Evgeniy for the proposal to use a push-pull multiplier in the high-voltage part. A series multiplier (often used in stun guns) has a fairly low efficiency, and in this case the power is transferred to the attacker's body without much loss.
Below we present the main parameters of the stun gun:
| Rated output power | 70 Watt |
| Maximum output power | 100 Watt |
| Peak output power | 130 Watt |
| Output voltage on arresters | 35000 Volt |
| Spark frequency | 1200 Hz |
| Distance between output electrodes | 30 mm |
| Maximum air breakdown | 45 mm |
| Flashlight | It has |
| Fuse | It has |
| Nutrition | battery (LI-po 12V 1200mA) |
Inverter
A powerful push-pull inverter circuit using N-channel power switches was used. This simple multivibrator circuit has a minimum number of components and consumes current up to 11 Amps, and after replacing the transistors with more powerful ones, the consumption increased to 16 Amps - quite a lot for such a compact inverter.
But if you have such a powerful converter, then you need an appropriate power source. A few weeks ago, two sets of lithium-polymer batteries with a capacity of 1200 mA at 12 Volts were ordered from an ebay auction. Later we managed to dig up some data about these batteries online. One of the sources reported that the short-circuit current of these batteries is 15 Amperes, but then from more reliable sources it became clear that the short-circuit current reaches up to 34 Amperes!!! Wild batteries with fairly compact sizes. It should be noted that 34 A is the short-term short-circuit current supplied.
After choosing a power source, you need to start assembling the stun gun filling.
In the inverter, you can use field-effect transistors IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48, or more powerful ones - IRL3705, IRF3205 (it is the latter option that I used).
The pulse transformer was wound on a 50-watt core. Such Chinese transformers are designed to power 12-Volt halogen lamps and cost a penny (a little more than 1 US dollar).
The primary winding is wound with 5 strands of 0.5 mm wire (each). The winding contains 2x5 turns and is wound with two tires at once, each bus consists of 5 turns, as mentioned above.
We wind 5 turns at once with two buses throughout the frame, because we end up with 4 outputs of the primary winding.
We carefully insulate the winding with 10-15 layers of thin transparent tape and wind the step-up winding.
The secondary winding consists of 800 turns and is wound with 0.1 mm wire. We wind the winding in layers - each layer consists of 70-80 turns. We install interlayer insulation with the same transparent tape, for each row there are 3-5 layers of insulation.
The finished transformer can be filled epoxy resin, which I never do, since the winding technology has been worked out and so far not a single transformer has broken through.
Multiplier
We continue to assemble the stun gun with our own hands. In the high-voltage part, two push-pull multipliers connected in series are used. They use fairly common high-voltage components - 5kV 2200pF capacitors and KTs123 or KTs106 diodes (the former work better due to the increased reverse voltage).
There is nothing special to explain, we assemble it stupidly according to the diagram. The finished multiplier turns out to be quite compact; it needs to be filled with epoxy resin after it is mounted in the housing.
From such a multiplier you can remove up to 5-6 cm of clean arc, but you should not move the output contacts far apart to avoid undesirable consequences.
Housing and installation
The body was taken from a Chinese LED flashlight, although it had to be slightly altered. The batteries are located at the back of the case.
The power switch is used as a fuse. You can use almost any with a current of 4-5 Amps or more. The switches were taken from Chinese night lights (price in the store is less than a dollar).
A non-latching button should also be used with a large current. In my case, the button has two positions.
The flashlight is assembled using regular white LEDs. 3 LEDs from the flashlight are connected in series and connected to the battery through a 10 Ohm limiting resistor. This flashlight shines quite brightly and is quite suitable for illuminating the road at night.
After final installation, it is worth once again checking the entire circuit for serviceability.
To fill the voltage multiplier, I used epoxy resin, which is sold in syringes; it weighs only 28-29 grams, but one package is enough to fill two such multipliers.
The finished stun gun is very compact and wildly powerful.
Due to the increased frequency of sparking, more joules per second are supplied to the human body, so the time of effective shock exposure is microseconds!
Charging is carried out using a transformerless circuit, the design of which we will talk about some other time.
The finished shocker was covered with 3D carbon fiber (price about $4 per 1 meter).
This is how you can make a stun gun with your own hands, and it will be significantly better compared to factory versions.
For the first time, I have prepared several detailed video tutorials on assembling this stun gun.
On the Internet you can find many videos and text materials on production. The production of most of them requires considerable Money and knowledge. In this material we will look at the method of manufacturing what is probably one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns. As a result, we will get a good means of self-defense.
Let's watch a video on making a stun gun
So, we will need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two AA batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.
Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.
First of all, we take the electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the fly swatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.
All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, power supply, a start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.
Since the factory solution for the button location may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.
The exact location of the button must be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.
We will use the most common self-tapping screws as contacts. When searching for them, you need to make sure that they are as identical as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.
On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.
Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace AA batteries with rechargeable batteries.
You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor removed from the camera flash, but we will not do this.
We insulate the inside of the box to prevent short circuits.
Technical characteristics of homemade
stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 g.
Device design:
The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to electrodes and placed in a housing made of dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetrical multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on by button SB1. The load of transistor VT1 is the primary winding of transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the button SB2 is turned on is the supply for the second converter on the trinistor VS2. Charging capacitor C7 through resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dinistor VS1 leads to the switching off of the trinistor VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the polarity of the voltage on the battery C2-C6 is reversed, after which it is restored due to redischarge through the primary winding of transformer T2 and diode VD5. When capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistor VD1, the thyristor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.
All elements are installed on a board made of foiled fiberglass, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The body can be any suitable sized box made of material that does not allow electricity to pass through.
The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal fur. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.
The device does not require adjustment and operates reliably only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of standard size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEV-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. Transformer T2 is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with internal diameter 8 mm, external 10 mm, long 20 mm, cheek diameter 25 mm. The magnetic core is a section of a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.
Winding I contains 20 turns of PESH (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. First, winding II is wound onto the frame, through each layer of which a varnished fabric gasket is placed (otherwise a breakdown may occur between the turns of the secondary winding), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The secondary winding leads are carefully insulated and connected to the electrodes.
List of necessary elements for self-assembly
stun gun:
C1 - 0.047 µF;
C2...C6 - 200uF*50V;
C7 - 3300pF;
R1 – 2.7 kOhm;
R2 - 270 MOhm;
R3 - 1 MOhm;
VT1 - K1501;
VT2 - K1312;
VS1 - KH102B;
VS2 - KU111;
VD1...VD5 - KD102A;
VS1 and VS2 - P2K (independent, fixed).
Application:
If there is a perceived threat to your safety or in advance, press the VS1 button, after which the device begins charging, at which time there is no voltage on the electrodes.
After 1-2 minutes, the electric shock will be fully charged and ready for use. The readiness state is maintained for several hours, then the battery gradually discharges.
For any person, the issue of protecting oneself and loved ones is quite acute. And although the market offers many options for solving it, not every one of them can suit you, and this entails the need to look for ways to resolve it yourself. One of the good options for ensuring your own safety is an electric shocker, which other craftsmen manage to make at home.
The concept of "electric shocker"
A stun gun is a special electrical device used as a weapon of self-defense to stop or neutralize an attacking person or animal by giving electrical discharge high power. Such a discharge causes numbness in the aggressor’s muscles and a strong pain effect, which paralyzes the attacker for some time. They release this device different forms, capacities and price category. Persons who have reached the age of majority are allowed to purchase and carry a stun gun with a power of up to 3 W, without the need to present any additional documents, certificates or permits. More powerful devices are intended for special services.
The most reliable are, naturally, factory-assembled devices, but people who are well versed in radio engineering can try to make a stun gun with their own hands, since there are plenty of manuals and diagrams, and getting the necessary parts is also not difficult.
Parts required to assemble a stun gun
The main part of the device is a voltage converter made in accordance with the blocking generator circuit. In this case, one field-effect transistor with reverse conductivity of the IRF3705 brand is used (you can take a transistor IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48 or IRL3205). It is also necessary to ensure the presence of a 100 Ohm gate resistor with a declared power of 0.5-1 W, high voltage capacitors having a capacitance of 0.1-0.22 μF (for series connection of two 630 V capacitors) and with an operating voltage above 1000 V, a spark gap (industrial or homemade from two pieces of wire 0.8 mm thick located one above the other, with a gap of 1 mm), rectifier diode KTs106. If you have all the necessary components, the task of how to make a stun gun will not cause any difficulties for a true craftsman.
How to make a transformer correctly
To assemble the converter, you need to properly make its main component - the step-up transformer. To do this, take, for example, a core from a switching power supply. Having carefully freed it from the old winding, carefully wind the new one. The primary winding is made with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.8 mm, applying 12 turns and moving away from the middle (wind 6 turns, twist the wire, make another 6 turns in the same direction). Then you need to insulate it with transparent tape, making 5 layers of it. A secondary winding is placed on top, making 600 turns with a wire with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm, applying two layers of adhesive tape for insulation every 50 turns. This will protect the transformer from breakdowns. Both windings are made strictly in the same direction. For better insulation You can fill the entire structure with epoxy resin. A wire with stranded insulated wires must be soldered to the terminals from the secondary winding. It is recommended to place the resulting transistor on an aluminum heat sink.
The procedure for assembling a homemade stun gun
After manufacturing the converter, it is tested by assembling a circuit that does not include the high-voltage part. If the transformer is assembled correctly, the output will be a “burning current”. Then the voltage multiplier is soldered. Capacitors are selected with a voltage of at least 3 kV and a capacity of 4700 pF. The diodes in the multiplier are high-voltage ones, grade KTs106 (these are found in multipliers from old Soviet TVs).
By connecting the multiplier with the converter according to the circuit, you can turn on the resulting device, the arc should be 1-2 cm with the required characteristics and fairly loud clicks with a frequency of 300-350 Hz should be heard.
Lithium-ion can be used as a power source battery, how in mobile phones(their capacity must be at least 600 mA), or nickel batteries with a voltage of 1.2 V. The capacity of such batteries should be enough for two minutes of continuous operation of the device with an output power of up to 7 W and a voltage across the dischargers of more than 10 kV.
Mount the circuit in some suitable plastic case, covering the high-voltage section of the circuit with silicone for reliability. You can use a cut fork, nails or screws as bayonets. The circuit must also contain a switch and a non-latching button to prevent accidental switching on. As can be seen from the above, assembling a high-quality, reliable and powerful device requires quite serious skills, therefore, first of all, people versed in radio electronics should think about how to make a stun gun on their own.
How to make a stun gun from a battery
If you need a simpler way to assemble a stun gun, you can literally make it from available radio parts. To do this you will need: a regular nine-watt Krona battery, a transformer (you can take it from the mains adapter or charger), ebonite rod 30-40 centimeters long. A do-it-yourself stun gun is assembled as follows: two pieces of steel wire about 5 cm long are attached to the end of the ebonite rod using electrical tape, connected by wires to a transformer and a Krona battery. The battery is connected to the two-pin terminal of the transformer (where a current of 6-9 V comes out). A small push-button switch is attached to the other end of the rod, when pressed, a high-voltage arc appears between the steel antennae (it jumps at the moment when the circuit with the battery in the small winding opens, that is, to create a visible arc you need to press the switch 25 times per second ). Despite the high voltage created in this design, the current strength will be very small, so such a stun gun can become more of a means of intimidation than protection.
How to make a stun gun from an electric lighter
If you know how to make a stun gun, then a small low-power intimidation device can be assembled using a simple electric lighter to gas stoves. How to make a mini stun gun using it is described below.
In addition to the electric lighter itself, you will need a metal clip and glue, as well as a soldering iron, and everything you need for soldering. First of all, they disassemble it and cut off the tube using a metal blade, leaving only the handle with two wires sticking out. They are cut with wire cutters to a protruding length of 1-2 cm. Having exposed the wires and treated them with flux, two pieces cut from a metal clip are soldered to them. The antennae are bent slightly with pliers and glued to insulate the entire finished design glue on the front. Such a shocker is low-power and is not suitable for serious self-defense.
Stun gun made from electric lighters for gas stoves
Knowing the structure of electric lighters and having a little understanding of radio technology, you can understand how to make a stun gun from a lighter. To do this, you need to take four electric lighters (more precisely, high-voltage coils and converter boards), three AA batteries or accumulators, a flashlight body or a tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Craftsmen suggest connecting these parts together, adding arresters and a switch to the circuit, which will allow you to assemble a stun gun with your own hands without much hassle. Each of the transformers is connected to two separate contacts, and the entire contents are placed in a plastic case. It is assumed that with this method of assembly, four flashes should be produced simultaneously on the spark gaps.
Film camera stun gun
To figure out how to make a stun gun with your own hands, you can remember an old unnecessary film camera - a “soap box”. It can be converted into a device that produces one-fourth the energy of a professional shocker. To do this, you need to unscrew the camera, remove the batteries and find a small flash bulb. After this, it is disconnected from the wires, and in place of the flash, two pieces are attached to these wires copper wire- with a thick layer of insulation and a length of 8-10 cm - using soldering. You need to make sure that these wires protruding from the camera do not touch. Place the batteries in place, and after the manipulations are completed, the camera body is insulated with some kind of plastic coated, so that only the spark gaps in the form of copper antennae and the flash and shutter buttons are visible from it. Now, when releasing the shutter, you can get sparks on the arrester wires.
Thus, there are several ways to make a stun gun at home, it all depends on knowledge of radio engineering, skill and available source material. When working, it is imperative to observe safety precautions, since the work is mainly associated with high voltage and power electric current.
What is most important in a person’s life, besides family happiness, a secure existence and the realization of one’s own ambitions? Naturally personal security and self-confidence. Of course, it’s good to be confident when you are two meters tall, have sloping shoulders, and you are fluent. But what about those who do not have such wonderful physical characteristics? For this we came up with one very effective adaptation, called a stun gun. Today we will try to assemble a stun gun with our own hands. It turns out that there is nothing complicated about this self-defense tool. You can make a stun gun with a minimum of knowledge in electrical engineering, but maximum diligence, however, just like when creating any other homemade weapons. I would like to warn you right away that I did not assemble this device myself; I found the assembly instructions on the Internet and posted them on the website purely for informational purposes. So, I cannot vouch for the reliability of the information. If anyone finds errors in the device, please leave a comment and we will correct it.
So for electroshock device assembly, we will need:
- converter
- capacitor
- arrester
- transformer
The principle of operation is quite simple: the igniting capacitor gives a discharge to the spark gap-transformer pair and the fighting capacitor, resulting in a fairly powerful electric pulse at the output.
Let's start with making the converter transformer. We will need a B22 core made of 2000NM ferrite, onto which we need to wind thin enameled wire with a diameter of 0.1 millimeters. This device looks like a bobbin from sewing machine and can be purchased at an electrical supply store.
We wind until there is 1.5 millimeters left to the edge. You should get five or six layers of winding. Between each layer you need to lay electrical tape. Next, we completely wrap everything with electrical tape in a couple of layers and make the winding with thicker wire with a diameter of 0.9 millimeters. Somewhere on the third layer we make a layering and wind the remaining turns. We connect the bobbin covers and wrap everything again with electrical tape.
Now we are waiting for the manufacture of a more complex part - the output transformer. We buy a polypropylene tube with a diameter of 20 mm at a plumbing store. Cut a piece five centimeters long. Now we need to make a frame out of it; to do this, insert a bolt suitable for the diameter of the tube into the drill, wrap electrical tape around it and insert it into the tube. In place of the cutter, you can use a metal file or sharpened steel plastic. We make grooves two millimeters deep and wide, but be careful not to cut through the tube. Then use a knife to cut a groove along the entire tube, two or three millimeters wide.
Now we need a ferrite rod with a diameter of ten millimeters and a length of fifty millimeters. It can be taken from the horizontal scan transformer of an old TV. We break off the pieces we need from it and glue them together to form a rod the right size. You can sand it until it is round. However, you can buy ferrite rings in the store and glue them together with superglue.
We wrap the rod with a layer of electrical tape and wrap a 0.9 millimeter wire around it, departing 5-10 millimeters from the edges. Be sure to wind it in the same direction as on the sections of the tube. Next, we insulate it with electrical tape, but so that the rod with the winding can freely enter the tube. We insert the rod into the tube from the side where there is no wiring outlet, and connect the two windings together. The result should be three outputs: the end from the first winding, the common connected end and the HV output. The winding phases must be in the same direction. Next we will place the transformer in cardboard boxes and fill it with paraffin.
The figure below shows a diagram of a stun gun.
The ignition capacitor is charged through the bridge, and at the same time the combat capacitor is charged through the diodes. Diodes are needed to divide the capacitor circuit into two different ones.All parts used in the circuit can be bought at the store and placed on a 40X45 mm board.
You will need:
- transistors IRFZ24; IRL2505
- Resistors
- 3300 peak capacitor
- batteries 6 pieces NicD size 1/2 AA
Now let's start the assembly process.The stun gun case can be made from cardboard.We insert the “insides” of the shocker there and fill it with epoxy.
I did not describe in detail the entire assembly process, because everything that is needed is indicated in the diagram above. Those who can understand such circuits and hold a soldering iron in their hands will easily cope with the task without these “valuable” instructions, those who cannot... well, they are unlikely to succeedmake a stun gun with your own handsand it’s better to let them buy it in the store.
After the epoxy has hardened, you can begin test homemade stun gun on annoying neighbors (joke)