How to make a solar battery at home. How to make a solar battery at home from available materials? Preparatory stage: what you need to know about solar panels

Solar energy is just great, but here’s the problem: even one battery costs a lot of money, and for a good effect you need more than one, or even two. That's why the idea comes - to collect everything yourself. If you have a little soldering skill, this is easy to do. The entire assembly consists of sequentially connecting the elements into tracks, and securing the tracks to the body. Let's talk about the price right away. A set for one panel (36 pieces) costs around $70-80. And complete DIY solar panels with all the materials will cost you about $120-150. Much less than factory ones. But it must be said that they will also be less powerful. On average, each photoconverter produces 0.5 V, if you connect 36 pieces in series, it will be about 18 V.

A little theory: types of photocells for solar panels

The biggest problem is purchasing photovoltaic converters. These are the same silicon wafers that convert sunlight into electricity. Here you need to understand a little about the types of photocells. They are produced in two types: polycrystalline and monocrystalline. Monocrystalline ones are more expensive, but have a higher efficiency - 20-25%, polycrystalline ones - cheaper, but their productivity is lower - 17-20%. How to distinguish them externally? Polycrystalline have a bright blue color. Monocrystalline ones are a little darker and they have not a square, but a multifaceted shape - a square with cut edges.

About the release form. There are solar cells with already soldered conductors, and there are kits where the conductors are included and you need to solder everything yourself. Everyone decides what to buy, but it must be said that without skill you will damage at least one plate, and most likely more than one. And if you don’t know how to solder very well... then it’s better to pay a little more, but get parts that are almost ready for use.

Making photocells for solar panels with your own hands is unrealistic. To do this, you need to be able to grow silicon crystals and then process it. Therefore, you need to know where to buy. More on this later.

Where and how to buy photocells

Now about the quality. All Chinese sites like Ebay or Alibaba sell rejects. Those parts that did not pass tests at the factory. That's why you won't get a perfect battery. But their price is not the highest, so you can put up with it. At least at first. Assemble a couple of test solar panels with your own hands, get your hands on it, and then you can take it from the factory.

Some sell solar cells sealed in wax. This prevents them from being damaged during transportation, but it is quite difficult to get rid of the wax without damaging the plates. You need to dip them all together in hot, but not boiling water. Wait until the wax melts, then carefully separate. Then bathe each plate one by one in a hot soapy solution, then dip it in clean hot water. You may need several such “ablutions”; the water and soap solution will have to be changed, and more than once. After removing the wax, place the clean plates on a terry towel to dry. This is a very troublesome matter. So it's better to buy without wax. It's much easier this way.

Now about shopping on Chinese sites. Specifically about Ebay and Alibaba. They are verified, thousands of people buy something there every day. The system is no different. After registration, as usual, enter the name of the element in the search bar. Then you choose the offer you like for some reason. Be sure to choose from those options that offer free shipping. If there is no such mark, then delivery will have to be paid separately. And it is often more than the cost of the product and certainly more than the difference that you gain on the price.

You need to focus not only on the price, but also on the seller’s rating and reviews. Read carefully the composition of the product, its parameters and reviews. You can communicate with the seller, but you need to write messages in English.

Regarding payment. It is transferred to the seller on these sites only after you sign off on receiving the goods. In the meantime, while delivery is underway, your money is in the account of the trading platform. You can pay with a card. If you are afraid to reveal your card data, use intermediate services. They are different, but the essence is the same - your card will not light up. There are also returns on these sites, but this is a long story, so it is better to buy from trusted sellers (with good ratings and reviews).

Yes. The delivery depends on the region. And the point is not so much how long it will take from China, but how soon the mail will deliver it. At best, three weeks, but maybe a month and a half.

How to assemble

Assembling a solar battery with your own hands consists of three stages:

1. Making the frame.
2. Soldering solar cells.
3. Framing and sealing.

The frame can be made from aluminum corners or wooden slats. But the shape of the frame, materials, and manufacturing sequence depend on the installation method.

Method one: installation on a window

The battery is hung on a window, on a frame from inside the room or outside, but also on the window. Then you need to make a frame from an aluminum corner, and glue glass or polycarbonate to it. In this case, at least small gaps remain between the photocells, through which some light penetrates into the room. Choose the frame dimensions based on the size of your solar cells and how you are going to arrange them. The dimensions of the window may also play a role. Please note that the plane must be flat - photoelectric converters are very fragile and will crack at the slightest distortion.

Having unfolded the finished frame with the glued glass face down, apply a layer of sealant to the surface of the glass. Place the rulers assembled from photocells on the sealant, again face down.

Make a mat from thick elastic foam rubber (thickness at least 4 cm) and a piece of plastic film (200 microns): cover the foam rubber with film and fasten it well. It is better to solder polyethylene, but you can also use tape, but all joints should be on the same side. The second one should be even and smooth. The size of the mat should fit well into the frame (without bending or effort).

We laid the mat on photocells embedded in sealant. There is a board on it, which is slightly smaller in size than the frame, and a solid load on the board. This simple device will help expel air bubbles that are trapped under the photocells. Air reduces productivity, and greatly. Because the fewer bubbles there are, the better. Leave the entire structure for 12 hours.

Now it's time to remove the weight and unstick the mat. Do it slowly and without haste. It is important not to damage the soldering and conductors. Therefore, pull smoothly, without jerking. After the mat has been removed, the panel must be left for a while to dry. When the sealant stops sticking, you can hang the panel and use it.

Instead of a lengthy procedure with sealant, you can use a special film for sealing. It's called EVA. Simply spread the film on top of the battery assembled and laid on the glass and heat it with a hair dryer until it is completely sealed. It takes much less time.

Method two: installation on a wall, roof, etc.

In this case everything is different. The back wall should be dense and non-conductive. Possibly - wooden, plywood, etc. Therefore, it makes sense to make the frame from wooden blocks. Only the height of the body should be small so that the shadow from the sides does not interfere.

In the photo, the body consists of two halves, but this is not at all necessary. It's just easier to assemble and lay short rulers, but in this case there will be more connections. Yes. A few nuances: you need to provide several holes in the housing. At the bottom you need several pieces for the condensation to escape, as well as two holes for the conductors from the battery.

Then paint the battery case with white paint - silicon wafers have a fairly wide range of operating temperatures, but it is not unlimited: from -40 o C to +50 o C. And in the summer, +50 o C easily rises in a closed box. That’s why white color is needed so that the photoconverters do not overheat. Overheating, like hypothermia, leads to reduced efficiency. This, by the way, may explain an incomprehensible phenomenon: it’s noon, the sun is hot, and the battery began to produce less electricity. And she just overheated. For the southern regions, you probably need to lay down foil. It will be more effective. Moreover, productivity will most likely increase: radiation reflected by the foil will also be captured.

After the paint has dried, you can lay the assembled paths. But this time face up. How to attach them? Place a drop of heat-resistant sealant in the middle of each plate. Why not apply it over the entire surface? Due to thermal expansion, the plate will change dimensions. If you glue it only in the middle, nothing will happen to it. If there are at least two points, it will burst sooner or later. Therefore, carefully apply a drop in the middle and gently press the plate. Don't press - it's very easy to crush.

In some cases, the plates were first attached to a base - a sheet of fiberboard painted the same white color. And then they were fixed to the body with screws on the base.

After all the rulers are laid, connect them in series. To prevent the conductors from dangling, they can be fixed with a few drops of sealant. You can remove the wires from the elements through the bottom or through the side - whichever is more convenient. Pull them through the hole, and then fill the hole with the same sealant. Now you need to let all the connections dry. If you cover it too early, a coating will form on the glass and photocells, which will greatly reduce the battery's efficiency. Therefore, we wait at least a day (or as long as indicated on the sealant packaging).

Now all that’s left to do is cover everything with glass or transparent plastic. How to attach it is up to you. But don't seal it at first. At least until the test. There may be a problem somewhere.

And one more nuance. If you plan to connect batteries to the system, you will need to install a diode that will prevent the battery from discharging through the battery at night or in bad weather. It is best to install a Schottky diode. I connect it to the battery in series. It is better to install it inside the structure - at high temperatures its voltage drop decreases, i.e. in working condition it will reduce the voltage less.

How to solder elements for a solar battery

A little about handling silicon wafers. They are very, very fragile and easily crack and break. Therefore, you need to handle them with extreme caution and store them in hard containers away from children.

You need to work on a flat, hard surface. If the table is covered with oilcloth, place a sheet of something hard. The plate should not bend, but its entire surface should rest firmly on the base. Moreover, the base must be smooth. Experience shows that the ideal option is a piece of laminate. It is hard, even, smooth. They solder on the back side, not on the front.

For soldering, you can use flux or rosin, or any of the compounds in the soldering marker. Everyone here has their own preferences. But it is desirable that the composition does not leave traces on the matrix.

Place the silicon wafer face up (face is the blue side). It has two or three tracks. You coat them with flux or a marker, an alcohol (not aqueous-alcohol) solution of rosin. Photoconverters usually come with a thin contact tape. Sometimes it is cut into pieces, sometimes it comes in a reel. If the tape is wound on a reel, you need to cut a piece equal to twice the width of the solar cell plus 1 cm.

Solder the cut piece onto the flux-treated strip. The tape turns out to be much longer than the record; the rest remains on one side. Try to hold the soldering iron without lifting it off. As much as possible. For better soldering, you should have a drop of solder or tin at the tip of the tip. Then the soldering will be of high quality. There should be no unsoldered areas; warm everything up well. But don't push! Especially around the edges. These are very fragile products. Solder the tapes to all tracks one by one. Photoconverters turn out to be “tailed”.

Now, actually, about how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands. Let's start assembling the line. There are also tracks on the back of the record. Now we solder the “tail” from the top plate to the bottom one. The technology is the same: we coat the track with flux, then solder it. So we connect the required number of photoelectric converters in series.

In some versions, on the back side there are not tracks, but platforms. Then there is less soldering, but there may be more quality complaints. In this case, we coat only the areas with flux. And we also solder only on them. That's all, actually. The assembled tracks can be transferred to the base or body. But there are many more tricks.

For example, a certain distance (4-5 mm) must be maintained between photocells, which is not so easy without clamps. The slightest misalignment, and there is a possibility of breaking the conductor or breaking the plate. Therefore, to set a certain step, construction crosses are glued onto a piece of laminate (used when laying tiles), or markings are made.

All the problems that arise when making solar panels with your own hands are related to soldering. Therefore, before sealing, and better yet, before transferring the ruler to the case, check the assembly with an ammeter. If everything is fine, you can continue working.

Results

Now you know how to make a solar battery at home. The matter is not the most difficult, but it requires painstaking work.

Ecology of consumption. Science and Technology: Everyone knows that a solar cell converts the sun's energy into electrical energy. And there is a whole industry for the production of such elements in huge factories. I suggest you make your own solar battery from readily available materials.

Everyone knows that a solar battery converts the sun's energy into electrical energy. And there is a whole industry for the production of such elements in huge factories. I suggest you make your own solar battery from readily available materials.

Components of a solar battery

The main element of our solar battery will be two copper plates. After all, as you know, copper oxide was the first element in which scientists discovered the photoelectric effect.

So, for the successful implementation of our modest project you will need:

1. Copper sheet. In fact, we don’t need a whole sheet, but small square (or rectangular) pieces of 5 cm each will suffice.

2. A pair of alligator clips.

3. Microammeter (to understand the amount of current generated).

4. Electric stove. It is necessary to oxidize one of our plates.

5. Transparent container. A regular plastic mineral water bottle will do just fine.

6. Table salt.

7. Regular hot water.

8. A small piece of sandpaper to remove any oxide film from our copper plates.

Once everything you need is prepared, you can proceed to the most important stage.

Preparing the plates

So, first of all, take one plate and wash it to remove all fats from its surface. After this, use sandpaper to clean off the oxide film and place the already cleaned bar on the switched on electric burner.

After that, we turn it on and watch how it heats up and changes our plate.

Once the copper plate has completely turned black, keep it on the hot stove for at least another forty minutes. After this, turn off the stove and wait until your “fried” copper has cooled completely.

Due to the fact that the cooling rate of the copper plate and the oxide film will be different, most of the black deposit will come off on its own.

After the plate has cooled, take it and gently wash off the black film under water.

Important. However, you should not tear off the remaining black areas or bend them in any way. This is necessary so that the copper layer remains intact.

After this, we take our plates and carefully place them in the prepared container, and attach our alligator clips with soldered wires to the edges. Moreover, we connect the untouched piece of copper to the minus, and the processed piece to the plus.

Then we prepare a saline solution, namely, we dissolve a few tablespoons of salt in water and pour this liquid into a container.

Now we check the performance of our design by connecting it to a microammeter.

As you can see, the installation is quite working. In the shade, the microammeter showed approximately 20 μA. But in the sun the device went off scale. Therefore, I can only say that in the sun such an installation clearly produces more than 100 μA.

Of course, with such an installation you will not even be able to light a light bulb, but by doing such an installation with your child, you can stir up his interest in studying, for example, physics. published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.

The sun is an inexhaustible source of energy. People have long learned how to use it effectively. We will not go into the physics of the process, but will look at how this free energy resource can be used. A homemade solar panel will help us with this.

Operating principle

What is a solar cell? This is a special module that consists of a huge number of the most basic photodiodes. These semiconductor elements were grown using special technologies in factory conditions on silicon wafers.

Unfortunately, such devices are by no means cheap. Most people cannot purchase them, but in this case there are many ways to make solar panels yourself. And this battery will be able to compete with commercial models. Moreover, its price will not be at all comparable to what stores offer.

Building a battery from silicon wafers

The kit includes 36 silicon wafers. They are offered in sizes 8*15 centimeters. The overall power figures will be about 76 W. You will also need wires to connect the elements to each other, and a diode that will perform the blocking function.

One silicon wafer produces 2.1 W and 0.53 V at a current of up to 4 A. The wafers only need to be connected in series. Only in this way will our energy source be able to produce 76 watts. There are two tracks on the front side. This is the “minus”, and the “plus” is located on the back side. Each panel must be positioned with a gap. You should get nine plates in four rows. In this case, the second and fourth rows must be turned in the opposite direction relative to the first. This is required so that everything is conveniently connected into one circuit. The diode must be taken into account. It allows you to prevent the storage battery from discharging at night or on a cloudy day. The “minus” of the diode must be connected to the “plus” of the battery. To charge the battery you will need a special controller. Using an inverter, you can obtain a normal household voltage of 220 V.

DIY solar panel assembly

Plexiglas has the lowest refractive index of light. It will be used as a body. This is a fairly inexpensive material. And if you need it even cheaper, then you can buy plexiglass. In the worst case scenario, you can use polycarbonate. But it is not very suitable for the case in terms of its characteristics. In stores you can find special polycarbonate with a coating that is protected from condensation. It also provides the battery with a high level of heat protection. But these are not all the elements that will make up the solar panel. It’s easy to find glass with good transparency with your own hands; this is one of the main components of the design. By the way, even ordinary glass will do.

Making a frame

During installation, silicon crystals must be mounted at a short distance. After all, you need to take into account various atmospheric influences that can affect changes in the base. So, it is desirable that the distance is about 5 mm. As a result, the size of the finished structure will be somewhere around 835 * 690 mm.

A solar panel is made by hand using an aluminum profile. It has the maximum resemblance to branded products. At the same time, a homemade battery is more sealed and durable.

For assembly you will need an aluminum corner. A blank for the future frame is made from it. Dimensions - 835*690 mm. In order to fasten the profiles together, it is necessary to make technological holes in advance.

The inside of the profile should be coated with silicone-based sealant. You need to apply it very carefully so that all places are coated. The efficiency and reliability that the solar panel will have depends entirely on how well it is applied.

With your own hands, you now need to put a sheet of pre-selected transparent material into the profile frame. It could be anything else. An important point: the silicone layer must dry. This must be taken into account, otherwise a film will appear on the silicon elements.

At the next stage, the transparent material must be squeezed well and fixed. To make the fastening as reliable as possible, you should use hardware. We will secure the glass around the perimeter and at four corners. Now the solar panel, made by hand, is almost ready. All that remains is to connect the silicon elements to each other.

Soldering crystals

Now you need to lay the conductor onto the silicon plate as carefully as possible. Next we apply flux and solder. To make it more convenient to work, you can fix the conductor on one side with something.

In this position, carefully solder the conductor to the contact pad. Do not press on the crystal with a soldering iron. It is very fragile, you can break it.

Latest assembly operations

If making solar panels with your own hands is your first time, then it is better to use a special marking substrate. It will help position the necessary elements as evenly as possible at the required distance. In order to correctly cut the wires of the required length connecting individual elements, it should be taken into account that the conductor must be soldered to the contact pad. It is slightly placed beyond the edge of the crystal. If you make preliminary calculations, it turns out that the wires should be 155 mm each.

When you assemble all this into a single structure, it is better to take a sheet of plywood or plexiglass. For convenience, it is better to pre-position the crystals horizontally and fix them. This is easily done using crosses for laying tiles.

After you connect all the elements together, stick double-sided construction tape on the back of each crystal. You just need to press the back panel a little, and all the crystals will be easily transferred to the base.

This type of fastening is not additionally sealed in any way. Crystals may expand at high temperatures, but this is not a big deal. Only individual parts need to be sealed.

Now you need to use it to secure all the tires and the glass itself. Before sealing and completely assembling the battery, it is advisable to test it.

Sealing

If you have regular silicone sealant, you don’t need to completely fill the crystals with it. This way you can eliminate the risk of damage. To fill this structure, you need not silicone, but epoxy resin.

This is how you can easily and easily get electrical energy for almost nothing. Now let's look at how else you can make solar panels with your own hands.

Experimental battery

Efficient systems for converting solar energy require huge factories, special care and a significant amount of money.

Let's try to make something ourselves. Everything you need for the experiment can be easily purchased at a hardware store or found in your kitchen.

DIY solar panel made from foil

For assembly you will need copper foil. It can be easily found in the garage or, in extreme cases, can be easily purchased at any hardware store. To assemble the battery you need 45 square centimeters of foil. You should also buy two alligator clips and a small multimeter.

To get a working solar cell, it is advisable to have an electric stove. You need at least 1100 watts of power. It should heat up to a bright red color. Also prepare a regular plastic bottle without a neck and a couple of tablespoons of salt. Get a drill with an abrasive attachment and a sheet of metal from the garage.

Let's get started

The first step is to cut a piece of copper foil of such a size that it fits completely on the electric stove. You will be required to wash your hands to avoid any greasy fingerprints on the copper. It is also advisable to wash the copper. To remove the coating from the copper sheet, use sandpaper.

copper foil

Next, we place the cleaned sheet on the tile and turn it on to its maximum capacity. When the tile begins to heat up, you will be able to observe the appearance of beautiful orange spots on the copper sheet. Then the color will change to black. It is necessary to hold the copper for about half an hour on a red-hot tile. This is a very important point. Thus, a thick layer of oxide peels off easily, while a thin layer will stick. After half an hour has passed, remove the copper from the stove and let it cool. You will be able to watch how pieces fall off the foil.

When everything cools down, the oxide film will disappear. You can easily clean most of the black oxide with water. If something doesn't come off, it's not worth trying. The main thing is not to deform the foil. As a result of deformation, a thin layer of oxide can be damaged; it is very necessary for the experiment. If it is not there, a solar panel made by yourself will not work.

Assembly

Cut the second piece of foil to the same dimensions as the first. Next, very carefully you need to bend the two parts so that they fit into the plastic bottle, but do not touch each other.

Then attach the crocodile clips to the plates. The wire from the “unfried” foil goes to the “plus”, the wire from the “fried” foil to the “minus”. Now take salt and hot water. Stir the salt until completely dissolved. Let's pour the solution into our bottle. And now you can see the fruits of your labors. This homemade solar panel, made with your own hands, can be slightly improved in the future.

Other ways to use solar energy

Solar energy is no longer used. In space, it powers the famous Mars rover on Mars from the Sun. And in the United States of America, Google data centers operate from the sun. In those parts of our country where there is no electricity, people can watch the news on TV. All this thanks to the Sun.

This energy also makes it possible to heat houses. A do-it-yourself air-solar panel is very simply made from beer cans. They accumulate heat and release it into the living space. It's effective, free and accessible.

There is probably no person who would not like to become more independent. The ability to completely manage your own time, travel without knowing boundaries and distances, and not think about housing and financial problems - this is what gives you a feeling of true freedom. Today we will talk about how, using solar radiation, you can relieve yourself of the burden of energy dependence. As you guessed, we will talk about solar panels. And to be more precise, about whether it is possible to build a real solar power plant with your own hands.

History of creation and prospects for use

Humanity has been nurturing the idea of ​​converting solar energy into electricity for a long time. Solar thermal installations were the first to appear, in which steam superheated by concentrated solar rays rotated generator turbines. Direct conversion became possible only in the mid-19th century, after the Frenchman Alexandre Edmond Baccarelle discovered the photoelectric effect. Attempts to create an operating solar cell based on this phenomenon were crowned with success only half a century later, in the laboratory of the outstanding Russian scientist Alexander Stoletov. It was possible to fully describe the mechanism of the photoelectric effect even later - humanity owes this to Albert Einstein. By the way, it was for this work that he received the Nobel Prize.

Baccarelle, Stoletov and Einstein are the scientists who laid the foundation of modern solar energy

The creation of the first solar photocell based on crystalline silicon was announced to the world by employees of Bell Laboratories back in April 1954. This date, in fact, is the starting point of technology, which will soon be able to become a full-fledged replacement for hydrocarbon fuel.

Since the current of one photovoltaic cell is milliamps, to generate electricity of sufficient power they have to be connected in modular structures. Arrays of solar photocells protected from external influences are a solar battery (due to its flat shape, the device is often called a solar panel).

Converting solar radiation into electricity has enormous prospects, because for every square meter of the earth's surface there is an average of 4.2 kW/hour of energy per day, which saves almost one barrel of oil per year. Initially used only for the space industry, the technology became so commonplace already in the 80s of the last century that photocells began to be used for domestic purposes - as a power source for calculators, cameras, lamps, etc. At the same time, “serious” solar-electric installations were created. Attached to the roofs of houses, they made it possible to completely abandon wired electricity. Today we can observe the birth of power plants, which are multi-kilometer fields of silicon panels. The power they generate can power entire cities, so we can say with confidence that the future lies with solar energy.

Modern solar power plants are multi-kilometer fields of photocells capable of supplying electricity to tens of thousands of homes.

Solar battery: how it works

After Einstein described the photoelectric effect, the whole simplicity of such a seemingly complex physical phenomenon was revealed to the world. It is based on a substance whose individual atoms are in an unstable state. When “bombarded” by photons of light, electrons are knocked out of their orbits - these are the sources of current.

For almost half a century, the photoelectric effect had no practical application for one simple reason - there was no technology for producing materials with an unstable atomic structure. Prospects for further research appeared only with the discovery of semiconductors. The atoms of these materials either have an excess of electrons (n-conductivity) or lack them (p-conductivity). When using a two-layer structure with an n-type (cathode) and a p-type (anode) layer, the bombardment of light photons knocks electrons out of the n-layer atoms. Leaving their places, they rush into the free orbits of the atoms of the p-layer and then, through the connected load, return to their original positions. Probably each of you knows that the movement of electrons in a closed loop represents an electric current. But it is possible to force electrons to move not thanks to a magnetic field, as in electric generators, but due to the flow of particles from solar radiation.

The solar panel works thanks to the photoelectric effect, which was discovered at the beginning of the 19th century.

Since the power of a single photovoltaic module is not sufficient to power electronic devices, a series connection of many cells is used to obtain the required voltage. As for the current strength, it is increased by parallel connection of a certain number of such assemblies.

The generation of electricity in semiconductors directly depends on the amount of solar energy, so photocells are not only installed in the open air, but they also try to orient their surface perpendicular to the incident rays. And in order to protect the cells from mechanical damage and atmospheric influences, they are mounted on a rigid base and protected with glass on top.

Classification and features of modern photocells

The first solar cell was made based on selenium (Se), but the low efficiency (less than 1%), rapid aging and high chemical activity of selenium solar cells forced the search for other, cheaper and more efficient materials. And they were found in the form of crystalline silicon (Si). Since this element of the periodic table is a dielectric, its conductivity was ensured by inclusions of various rare earth metals. Depending on the manufacturing technology, there are several types of silicon photocells:

• monocrystalline;
• polycrystalline;
• from amorphous Si.

The first ones are made by cutting off the thinnest layers from silicon ingots of the highest purity. Externally, monocrystalline photocells look like single-color dark blue glass plates with a pronounced electrode grid. Their efficiency reaches 19%, and their service life is up to 50 years. And although the performance of panels made on the basis of monocrystals is gradually falling, there is evidence that batteries manufactured more than 40 years ago remain operational today, delivering up to 80% of their original power.

Monocrystalline solar cells have a uniform dark color and cut corners - these features prevent them from being confused with other solar cells

In the production of polycrystalline solar cells, less pure, but cheaper silicon is used. The simplification of technology affects the appearance of the plates - they do not have a uniform shade, but a lighter pattern, which is formed by the boundaries of many crystals. The efficiency of such solar cells is slightly lower than that of monocrystalline ones - no more than 15%, and the service life is up to 25 years. It must be said that the decrease in basic performance indicators did not at all affect the popularity of polycrystalline solar cells. They benefit from a lower price and less dependence on external pollution, low clouds and orientation to the Sun.

Polycrystalline solar cells have a lighter blue tint and a non-uniform pattern - a consequence of the fact that their structure consists of many crystals

For solar cells made from amorphous Si, it is not a crystalline structure that is used, but a very thin layer of silicon, which is sprayed onto glass or polymer. Although this production method is the cheapest, such panels have the shortest lifespan, which is caused by fading and degradation of the amorphous layer in the sun. This type of photocells is also not pleased with its performance - their efficiency is no more than 9% and during operation it decreases significantly. The use of solar panels made of amorphous silicon is justified in deserts - high solar activity offsets the drop in productivity, and the vast expanses allow the placement of solar power plants of any size.

The ability to sputter a silicon structure onto any surface makes it possible to create flexible solar panels

Further development of photovoltaic cell production technology is driven by the need to reduce prices and improve performance characteristics. Film photocells today have the highest performance and durability:

• based on cadmium telluride;
• from thin polymers;
• using indium and copper selenide.

It is too early to talk about the possibility of using thin-film photocells in homemade devices. Today, only a few of the most technologically “advanced” companies are engaged in their production, so most often flexible solar cells can be seen as part of finished solar panels.

What are the best photovoltaic cells for a solar cell and where can you find them?

Homemade solar panels will always be one step behind their factory-made counterparts, and there are several reasons for this. Firstly, well-known manufacturers carefully select photocells, eliminating cells with unstable or reduced parameters. Secondly, in the manufacture of solar electric batteries, special glass with increased light transmission and reduced reflectivity is used - it is almost impossible to find this on sale. And thirdly, before starting serial production, all parameters of industrial designs are tested using mathematical models. As a result, the effect of cell heating on the battery efficiency is minimized, the heat removal system is improved, the optimal cross-section of connecting busbars is found, ways to reduce the degradation rate of photocells are explored, etc. It is impossible to solve such problems without an equipped laboratory and appropriate qualifications.

The low cost of homemade solar panels makes it possible to build an installation that allows you to completely abandon the services of energy companies

Nevertheless, self-made solar panels show good performance results and are not so far behind their industrial counterparts. As for the price, here we have a gain of more than twice, that is, at the same cost, homemade products will provide twice as much electricity.

Taking into account all of the above, a picture emerges of which solar cells are suitable for our conditions. Film ones are no longer available due to their lack of availability on sale, and amorphous ones due to their short service life and low efficiency. What remains are cells made of crystalline silicon. It must be said that in the first home-made device it is better to use cheaper “polycrystals”. And only after testing the technology and getting the hang of it, you should switch to monocrystalline cells.

Cheap, substandard solar cells are suitable for testing technologies - just like high-quality devices, they can be bought on foreign trading platforms

As for the question of where to get inexpensive solar cells, they can be found on foreign trading platforms such as Taobao, Ebay, Aliexpress, Amazon, etc. There they are sold both in the form of individual solar cells of various sizes and performance, and in ready-made kits for assembling solar panels any power.

Sellers often offer so-called class “B” solar cells, which are damaged mono- or polycrystalline solar cells. Small chips, cracks or missing corners have virtually no effect on the performance of the cells, but allow you to purchase them at a much lower cost. It is for this reason that they are most profitable to use in homemade solar energy devices.

Is it possible to replace photovoltaic plates with something else?

It’s rare that a home craftsman doesn’t have a treasured box of old radio components. But diodes and transistors from old receivers and televisions are still the same semiconductors with p-n junctions that produce current when illuminated by sunlight. By taking advantage of these properties and connecting several semiconductor devices, you can make a real solar battery.

To manufacture a low-power solar battery, you can use the old element base of semiconductor devices

An attentive reader will immediately ask what the catch is. Why pay for factory-made mono- or polycrystalline cells when you can use what is literally under your feet. As always, the devil is in the details. The fact is that the most powerful germanium transistors allow you to obtain a voltage of no more than 0.2 V in bright sunlight at a current measured in microamps. In order to achieve the parameters that a flat silicon solar cell produces, you will need several dozen, or even hundreds of semiconductors. A battery made from old radio components is only suitable for charging a camping LED flashlight or a small mobile phone battery. To implement larger-scale projects, you cannot do without purchased solar cells.

How much power can you expect from solar panels?

When thinking about building your own solar power plant, everyone dreams of completely abandoning wired electricity. In order to analyze the reality of this idea, we will do some small calculations.

Finding out your daily electricity consumption is easy. To do this, just look at the invoice sent by the energy supply organization and divide the number of kilowatts indicated there by the number of days in the month. For example, if you are offered to pay for 330 kWh, this means that daily consumption is 330/30 = 11 kWh.

Graph of solar battery power depending on illumination

In your calculations, you should definitely take into account the fact that the solar panel will generate electricity only during daylight hours, with up to 70% of the generation occurring between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. In addition, the efficiency of the device directly depends on the angle of incidence of sunlight and the state of the atmosphere.

Slight cloudiness or haze will reduce the efficiency of the solar installation's current output by 2–3 times, while a sky overcast by continuous clouds will cause a drop in performance by 15–20 times. Under ideal conditions, a solar battery with a capacity of 11/7 = 1.6 kW would be sufficient to generate 11 kWh of energy. Taking into account the influence of natural factors, this parameter should be increased by approximately 40–50%.

In addition, there is another factor that forces us to increase the area of ​​​​the photocells used. Firstly, we should not forget that the battery will not work at night, which means that powerful batteries will be needed. Secondly, to power household appliances you need a current of 220 V, so you will need a powerful voltage converter (inverter). Experts say that losses on the accumulation and transformation of electricity take up to 20–30% of its total amount. Therefore, the actual power of the solar battery should be increased by 60–80% of the calculated value. Taking an inefficiency value of 70%, we obtain the rated power of our solar panel equal to 1.6 + (1.6×0.7) = 2.7 kW.

Using high-current lithium battery assemblies is one of the most elegant, but by no means the cheapest, ways to store solar electricity

To store electricity, you will need low-voltage batteries designed for voltages of 12, 24 or 48 V. Their capacity must be designed for daily energy consumption plus transformation and conversion losses. In our case, we will need an array of batteries designed to store 11 + (11×0.3) = 14.3 kW×hour of energy. If you use regular 12-volt car batteries, you will need a 14300 Wh / 12 V = 1200 Ah assembly, that is, six batteries rated at 200 amp-hours each.

As you can see, even in order to provide electricity for the household needs of an average family, you will need a serious solar-electric installation. As for the use of homemade solar panels for heating, at this stage such an idea will not even reach the limits of self-sufficiency, not to mention the fact that something can be saved.

Battery size calculation

The size of the battery depends on the required power and the dimensions of the current sources. When choosing the latter, you will definitely pay attention to the variety of photocells offered. For use in homemade devices, it is most convenient to choose medium-sized solar cells. For example, polycrystalline panels measuring 3x6 inches are designed for an output voltage of 0.5 V and a current of up to 3 A.

When manufacturing a solar battery, they will be connected in series into blocks of 30 pieces, which will make it possible to obtain the voltage required for charging a car battery of 13–14 V (taking into account losses). The maximum power of one such unit is 15 V × 3 A = 45 W. Based on this value, it will not be difficult to calculate how many elements will be needed to build a solar panel of a given power and determine its dimensions. For example, to build a 180-watt solar electric collector, you will need 120 photocells with a total area of ​​2160 square meters. inches (1.4 sq.m).

Building a homemade solar panel

Before you start manufacturing a solar panel, you should solve the problems of its placement, calculate the dimensions and prepare the necessary materials and tools.

Choosing the right installation location is important

Since the solar panel will be made by hand, its aspect ratio can be any. This is very convenient, since a homemade device can be more successfully integrated into the exterior of the roof or the design of a suburban area. For the same reason, you should choose a place to install the battery before starting design activities, remembering to take into account several factors:

• openness of the place to sunlight during daylight hours;
• absence of shading buildings and tall trees;
• minimum distance to the room in which storage power and converters are installed.

Of course, a roof-mounted battery looks more organic, but placing the device on the ground has more advantages. In this case, the possibility of damage to roofing materials when installing the supporting frame is eliminated, the complexity of installing the device is reduced, and it becomes possible to timely change the “angle of attack of the sun’s rays.” And most importantly, with a lower placement it will be much easier to keep the surface of the solar panel clean. And this is a guarantee that the installation will work at full capacity.

Mounting a solar panel on a roof is driven more by space constraints than by necessity or ease of use.

What you will need during the work process

When starting to make a homemade solar panel, you should stock up on:

• photocells;
• stranded copper wire or special busbars for connecting solar cells;
• solder;
• Schottky diodes, designed for the current output of one photocell;
• high-quality anti-reflective glass or plexiglass;
• slats and plywood for making a frame;
• silicone sealant;
• hardware;
• paint and protective composition for treating wooden surfaces.

In the work you will need the simplest tool that a homely owner always has at hand - a soldering iron, glass cutter, saw, screwdriver, paint brush, etc.

Manufacturing instructions

To make the first solar battery, it is best to use photocells with already soldered leads - in this case, the risk of damage to the cells during assembly is reduced. However, if you are skilled with a soldering iron, you can save some money by purchasing solar cells with open contacts. To build the panel we looked at in the examples above, you will need 120 plates. Using an aspect ratio of approximately 1:1, 15 rows of photocells of 8 each will be required. In this case, we will be able to connect every two “columns” in series, and connect four such blocks in parallel. This way you can avoid tangled wires and get a smooth, beautiful installation.

Electrical wiring diagram for home solar power plant

Frame

Assembling a solar panel should always begin with making the housing. To do this, we will need aluminum corners or wooden slats with a height of no more than 25 mm - in this case they will not cast a shadow on the outer rows of photocells. Based on the dimensions of our 3 x 6 inch (7.62 x 15.24 cm) silicon cells, the frame size should be at least 125 x 125 cm. If you decide to use a different aspect ratio (for example, 1:2), the frame can be further strengthened with a crossbar made of lath the same section.

The back side of the case should be covered with a plywood or OSB panel, and ventilation holes should be drilled in the lower end of the frame. The connection between the internal cavity of the panel and the atmosphere will be needed to equalize the humidity - otherwise, fogging of the glass cannot be avoided.

To make a solar panel housing, the simplest materials are suitable - wooden slats and plywood.

A panel of plexiglass or high-quality glass with a high degree of transparency is cut according to the external size of the frame. In extreme cases, window glass up to 4 mm thick can be used. For its fastening, corner brackets are prepared, in which drillings are made for fastening to the frame. When using plexiglass, you can make holes directly in the transparent panel - this will simplify assembly.

To protect the wooden body of the solar battery from moisture and fungus, it is impregnated with an antibacterial compound and painted with oil paint.

For ease of assembly of the electrical part, a substrate is cut out of fiberboard or other dielectric material according to the internal size of the frame. In the future, photocells will be installed on it.

Soldering plates

Before you start soldering, you should “figure out” the placement of photocells. In our case, we will need 4 cell arrays of 30 plates each, and they will be located in fifteen rows in the case. Such a long chain will be inconvenient to work with, and the risk of damage to fragile glass plates increases. It would be rational to connect 5 parts each, and complete the final assembly after the photocells are mounted on the substrate.

For convenience, photocells can be mounted on a non-conductive substrate made of textolite, plexiglass or fiberboard

After connecting each chain, you should check its functionality. To do this, each assembly is placed under a table lamp. By recording current and voltage values, you can not only monitor the performance of the modules, but also compare their parameters.

For soldering we use a low-power soldering iron (maximum 40 W) and good, low-melting solder. We apply it in small quantities to the lead parts of the plates, after which, observing the polarity of the connection, we connect the parts to each other.

When soldering photocells, extreme care should be taken, since these parts are highly fragile.

Having collected the individual chains, we turn them with their backs towards the substrate and glue them to the surface using silicone sealant. Each 15-volt photocell unit is equipped with a Schottky diode. This device allows current to flow only in one direction, so it will not allow the batteries to discharge when the solar panel voltage is low.

The final connection of the individual strings of photocells is carried out according to the electrical diagram presented above. For these purposes, you can use a special bus or stranded copper wire.

The hanging elements of the solar battery should be secured with hot-melt adhesive or self-tapping screws.

Panel assembly

The substrates with photocells located on them are placed in the housing and secured with self-tapping screws. If the frame is reinforced with a cross member, then several drillings are made in it for mounting wires. The cable that is brought out is securely fixed to the frame and soldered to the terminals of the assembly. To avoid confusion with polarity, it is best to use two-color wires, connecting the red terminal to the “plus” of the battery, and the blue one to its “minus”. A continuous layer of silicone sealant is applied along the upper contour of the frame, on top of which the glass is laid. After final fixation, the assembly of the solar battery is considered complete.

After the protective glass is installed on the sealant, the panel can be transported to the installation site

Installation and connection of a solar battery to consumers

For a number of reasons, a homemade solar panel is a rather fragile device, and therefore requires a reliable supporting frame. The ideal option would be a design that would allow the source of free electricity to be oriented in both planes, but the complexity of such a system is most often a strong argument in favor of a simple inclined system. It is a movable frame that can be set at any angle to the light. One of the options for a frame made of wooden beams is presented below. You can use metal corners, pipes, tires, etc. to make it - whatever you have at hand.

Solar battery frame drawing

To connect the solar panel to the batteries, you will need a charge controller. This device will monitor the state of charge and discharge of batteries, monitor current output and switch to mains power in the event of a significant voltage drop. A device of the required power and required functionality can be purchased at the same retail outlets where photocells are sold. As for powering household consumers, this will require transforming the low-voltage voltage into 220 V. Another device - an inverter - can successfully cope with this. It must be said that the domestic industry produces reliable devices with good performance characteristics, so the converter can be purchased locally - in this case, a “real” guarantee will be a bonus.

One solar battery will not be enough to fully power your home - you will also need batteries, a charge controller and an inverter

On sale you can find inverters of the same power, differing in price several times. This scatter is explained by the “purity” of the output voltage, which is a necessary condition for powering individual electrical devices. Converters with the so-called pure sine wave have a more complicated design, and as a result, a higher cost.

Video: making a solar panel with your own hands

Building a home solar power plant is a non-trivial task and requires both financial and time costs, as well as minimal knowledge of basic electrical engineering. When starting to assemble a solar panel, you should observe maximum attention and accuracy - only in this case can you count on a successful solution to the issue. Finally, I would like to remind you that glass contamination is one of the factors affecting productivity. Remember to clean the surface of the solar panel in a timely manner, otherwise it will not be able to work at full capacity.

are photovoltaic converters (solar modules) that convert the energy of sunlight into electricity. In order to use household appliances in a house using a solar battery, there must be quite a lot of such modules.

The energy generated by one module is not enough to meet the energy needs. Photoelectric converters are connected to each other by one series circuit.

Parts that make up a solar battery:

1. Solar modules,combined into frames. From units to several dozen photovoltaic elements are combined in one frame. To provide electricity to an entire house, you will need several panels with elements.
2. . Serves to accumulate the received energy, which can then be used in the dark.
3. Controller. It monitors the discharge and charging of the battery.
4. . Converts direct current received from solar modules into alternating current.

Solar module (or photovoltaic cell) is based on the p-n junction principle, and its structure is very similar to a transistor. If you cut off the cap of a transistor and direct the sun's rays onto the surface, then a tiny electric current can be determined with a device connected to it. The solar module works on the same principle, only the transition surface of the solar cell is much larger.

Like many types of transistors, solar cells are made from crystalline silicon.

Based on manufacturing technology and materials, three types of modules are distinguished:

1. Monocrystalline. Manufactured in the form of cylindrical silicon ingots. The advantages of the elements are high performance, compactness and longest service life.
2. Thin film. Layers of a photoelectric converter are sputtered onto a thin substrate. The efficiency of thin-film modules is relatively low (7-13%).
3. Polycrystalline. Molten silicon is poured into a square mold, then the cooled material is cut into square wafers. Externally they differ from monocrystalline modules in that the edges of the corners of polycrystalline plates are not cut off.

Battery. Lead-acid batteries are most commonly used in solar panels. A standard battery has a voltage of 12 volts; to obtain higher voltage, battery packs are assembled. This way you can assemble a unit with a voltage of 24 and 48 volts.

Solar charge controller. The charge controller operates on the principle of a voltage regulator in a car. Basically, 12 volts produce a voltage of 15 to 20 volts, and without a controller they can be damaged by overload. When the battery is 100% charged, the controller turns off the modules and protects the battery from boiling.

Inverter. Solar modules produce direct current, but to use household appliances and appliances, alternating current and a voltage of 220 volts are required. Inverters are designed to convert direct current into alternating current.

Selection of components for manufacturing

To reduce the cost of a solar station, you need to try to assemble it yourself. To do this, you will need to purchase the necessary components; some elements can be made yourself.

You can assemble it yourself:

• frames with photoelectric converters;
• charging controller;
• voltage inverter;

The biggest costs will be associated with the purchase of the solar cells themselves. Parts can be ordered from China or on eBay, this option will be cheaper.

It is prudent to purchase functional converters with damage and defects - they are simply rejected by the manufacturer, but are quite serviceable. You cannot buy elements of different sizes and power - the maximum current of the solar battery will be limited by the current of the smallest element.

To make a frame with solar cells you will need:

• aluminum profile;
• solar cells (usually 36 pieces for one frame);
• solder and flux;
• drill;
• made fastenings;
• silicone sealant;
• copper busbar;
• a sheet of transparent material (plexiglass, polycarbonate, plexiglass);
• sheet of plywood or textolite (plexiglass);
• Schottky diodes;

Assembling the inverter yourself makes sense only if the power consumption is low. A simple charge controller is not that expensive, so there is little point in wasting time on making the device.

DIY manufacturing technology

To assemble solar panels you will need:

1. Design a frame (case).
2. Solder all solar cells in a parallel circuit.
3. Attach solar cells to the frame.
4. Make the housing hermetically sealed - direct exposure of photovoltaic cells to atmospheric precipitation is unacceptable.
5. Place the battery in the area of ​​greatest sunlight.

To meet the energy needs of a private home, one solar panel (frame) will not be enough. Based on practice, you can get 120 W of power from one square meter of solar panel. For normal energy supply to a residential building, you will need about 20 square meters. m. area of ​​solar cells.

Most often, the batteries are placed on the roof of the house on the sunny side.

Housing assembly

The body can be assembled from plywood sheets and slats, or from aluminum corners and sheets and plexiglass (textolite). You need to decide how many elements will be placed in the frame. It should be taken into account that a gap of 3-5 mm is required between the elements, and the size of the frame is calculated taking into account these distances. The distance is necessary so that during thermal expansion the plates do not touch each other.

Assembling a structure from aluminum profile and plexiglass:

• a rectangular frame is made from an aluminum corner;
• Holes for fastening are drilled in the corners of the aluminum body;
• silicone sealant is applied to the inside of the housing profile along the entire perimeter;
• a sheet of plexiglass (textolite) is installed in the frame and pressed tightly against the frame;
• Mounting corners are placed in the corners of the case using screws, which securely fix the sheet of transparent material in the case;
• the sealant is allowed to dry thoroughly;

That's it, the body is ready. Before placing solar cells in the housing, you must thoroughly wipe the surface from dirt and dust.

Connection of photocells

When handling photoelectronic elements, you should remember that they are very fragile and require careful handling. Before connecting the plates in a serial chain, they are first carefully but gently wiped - the plates must be perfectly clean.

If the photocells were purchased with soldered conductors, this simplifies the process of connecting the modules. But before assembly, in this case, it is necessary to check the quality of the finished soldering, and if there are any irregularities, eliminate them.

Photovoltaic plates have contacts on both sides - these are contacts of different polarities. If the conductors (buses) have not yet been soldered, you must first solder them to the contacts of the plates, and then connect the photovoltaic elements to each other.

To solder busbars to photovoltaic modules, you need:

1. Measure the required length of the tire and cut the required number of strips into pieces.
2. Wipe the contacts of the plates with alcohol.
3. Apply a thin layer of flux to the contact along the entire length of the contact on one side.
4. Place the busbar exactly along the length of the contact and slowly move the heated soldering iron over the entire soldering surface.
5. Turn the plate over and repeat all soldering operations on the other side.

Do not press the soldering iron too hard against the plate; the element may burst. It is also necessary to check the quality of soldering - there should be no irregularities on the front side of the photocells. If the bumps and roughness remain, you need to carefully go over the contact seam with a soldering iron again. You must use a low-power soldering iron.

What needs to be done to correctly and accurately connect photovoltaic cells:

1. If you have no experience in assembling elements, it is recommended to use a marking surface on which to place the elements (plywood sheet).
2. Position the solar panels strictly according to the markings. When marking, do not forget to leave a distance between elements of 5 mm.
3. When soldering the contacts of the plates, be sure to monitor the polarity. The photocells must be correctly assembled in a series circuit, otherwise the battery will not work properly.

Mechanical installation of panels:

1. Make markings for the plates in the body.
2. Place the solar cells in the housing, placing them on plexiglass. Secure it in the frame with silicone glue at the marked places. Do not apply a lot of glue, just a tiny drop in the center of the plate. Press carefully so as not to damage the plates. It is better to move the plates into the housing together; it will be inconvenient for one person.
3. Connect all the wires along the edges of the plates to common busbars.

Before sealing the panel, you need to test the quality of the soldering. The structure is carefully brought closer to sunlight and the voltage on the common buses is measured. It should be within expected values.

Alternatively, sealing can be done as follows:

1. Apply beads of silicone sealant between the plates and along the edges of the body, carefully press the edges of the photocells against the plexiglass with your fingers. It is necessary that the elements fit as tightly as possible to the transparent base.
2. Place a small weight on all edges of the elements, for example, heads from a car tool kit.
3. Allow the sealant to dry thoroughly, the plates will be securely fixed during this time.
4. Then carefully coat all the joints between the plates and the edges of the frame. That is, you need to lubricate everything in the body except the plates themselves. It is permissible for sealant to get on the edges of the back side of the plates.

Final assembly of the solar battery

1. Install a connector on the side of the housing, Connect the connector to Schottky.
2. Cover the outside of the plate with a protective screen made of transparent material. In this case, plexiglass. The structure must be sealed and prevent moisture from penetrating into it.
3. It is advisable to treat the front side (plexiglass), for example, varnish (varnish PLASTIK-71).

What is a Schottky diode used for? If the light falls on only part of the solar battery, and the other part is darkened, the cells may fail.

Diodes help avoid structural failure in such cases. In this case, power is lost by 25%, but you can’t do without diodes - they shunt the current, the current bypasses the photocells. To keep the voltage drop to a minimum, it is necessary to use low-resistance semiconductors, such as Schottky diodes.

Advantages and disadvantages of a solar battery

Solar panels have both advantages and disadvantages. If there were only one advantage from the use of photoelectric converters, the whole world would have switched to this type of electricity generation long ago.

Advantages:

1. Autonomy of the power supply, there is no dependence on voltage interruptions in the centralized power grid.
2. No subscription fee for the use of electricity.

Flaws:

1. High cost equipment and elements.
2. Dependence on sunlight.
3. Possibility of element damage solar battery due to adverse weather conditions (hail, storm, hurricane).

In what cases is it advisable to use a photovoltaic cell installation:

1. If the object (house or cottage) is located at a great distance from the power line. It could be a country cottage in the countryside.
2. When the property is located in a southern sunny area.
3. When combining different types of energy. For example, heating a private house using stove heating and solar energy. The cost of a low-power solar station will not be so high, and can be economically justified in this case.

Installation

The battery must be installed in a location with maximum sunlight exposure. The panels can be mounted on the roof of the house, on a rigid or rotating bracket.

The front of the solar panel should face south or southwest at an angle of 40 to 60 degrees. During installation, external factors must be taken into account. The panels should not be blocked by trees or other objects, and dirt should not get on them.

1. It is better to buy photocells with minor defects. They are also functional, just not as beautiful in appearance. New elements are very expensive; assembling a solar battery will not be economically justified. If there is no particular rush, it is better to order the plates on eBay, it will cost even less. You need to be careful with shipping from China - there is a high probability of receiving defective parts.
2. Photocells need to be purchased with a small margin, there is a high probability of their breaking during installation, especially if there is no experience in assembling such structures.
3. If the elements are not yet used, you should hide them in a safe place to avoid breakage of fragile parts. Do not stack the plates in large piles - they may burst.
4. During the first assembly, you should make a template, on which the locations of the plates will be marked before assembly. This makes it easier to measure the distances between elements before soldering.
5. Soldering must be done with a low-power soldering iron., and under no circumstances apply force when soldering.
6. It is more convenient to use aluminum corners for assembling the case, wooden construction is less reliable. It is better to use plexiglass or other similar material as a sheet on the back side of the elements; it is more reliable than painted plywood and looks aesthetically pleasing.
7. Photovoltaic panels should be located in places where sunlight will be maximum throughout the daylight hours.

House power supply diagram

The sequential power supply circuit for a private solar-powered home is as follows:

1. Multi-panel solar battery, which are located on the slope of the roof of the house, or on a bracket. Depending on energy consumption, there can be up to 20 panels or more. The battery produces a direct current of 12 volts.
2. Charge controller. The device protects batteries from premature discharge and also limits the voltage in the DC circuit. Thus, the controller protects the batteries from overload.
3. Voltage inverter. Converts direct current to alternating current, thereby allowing household appliances to consume electricity.
4. Batteries. For private houses and cottages, several batteries are installed, connecting them in series. Serve to store energy. Battery energy is used at night when the solar battery cells do not produce current.
5. Electricity meter.

Quite often in private homes, the power supply system is supplemented with a backup generator.

In general, assembling a solar battery with your own hands is not that difficult. All you need is certain tools, patience and accuracy.

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