I want to weld a workbench for the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and to sharpen, and to fasten a vice, and to put tools in drawers.
I managed to visualize my intentions. I spent a long time going through different layout options and estimating the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.
Blue indicates metal parts, yellow indicates wooden parts.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, surrounded by a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from a 60x40x2 profile pipe. Stiffening ribs will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. The shelves and side panels will be made from 30mm thick boards. Guides for attaching the side panels will be made from a 40x4 strip. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.
To purchase metal, we agreed with Dikiy to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to drag it out over the whole day, we went to the metal depot.
The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea coat, who looked to be suffering from a hangover, was taking out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slush puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.
Don’t call me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry the grimy, rusty pieces of freshly purchased metal. You still need to clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with.
On that harsh January morning the following were purchased:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal worth 4,000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.
Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.
Now you can calmly put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, stinking, sticky quagmire of your daily hopeless routine.
Welded brackets for the tool panel above the workbench.
And the base for the homemade table top was welded.
The cross members of the base for the table top are welded flush with the corner. For this purpose, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of what it looks like:
In the meantime, I welded the instrument panel brackets.
Reinforced loaded joints with 4mm strip overlays.
I welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.
The brackets provide additional rigidity to the entire structure.
I want to cover the tabletop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces left (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the required sizes.
If such pieces will be useful to someone, then let’s cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.
I made boxes from 15mm plywood. I assembled it with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solid, just the way I like it.
The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m
The slides were secured by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that TIG was too lazy to uncover. Moreover, it holds securely anyway.
Now I'm thinking about different options for facades.
This completes the welding stage. There's carpentry and painting ahead. Some other little things like plumbing and electrical wiring.
Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wow, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, handing over a can of rust paint with metal chips for 500 rubles.
I covered the tabletop with a 150x40 edged board. I fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. In total I used 60 self-tapping screws.
I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay more tightly.
He talked about protecting wood from fire. Impregnated wood cannot support combustion on its own.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.
Of course, this does not allow you to weld metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards will still char if they don’t catch fire. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grill that will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from heat.
After drying, I will cover the tabletop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.
Covered the tabletop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was held to a wooden base by rows of countersunk screws. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.
I used 10mm plywood shields to cover the extra openings in the workbench frame.
The photo shows a paint shop.
I registered permanent residents on the tabletop - a sharpening machine and a vice. They get lost on a hefty tabletop.
1) What is the best way to cover the bare metal on the countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a durable protective film and is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a durable chair with adjustable height?
P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Following the links you can find the manufacturing process of everything presented.
Still, I took the plunge and coated the countertop with rust converter. Apply a thin, even layer.
While the tabletop was drying, I finished with the shelves in the left drawer
Well, in general, greasing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if it was covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because... the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries again, hiding all old damage.
From the large one, all that remains is to make a panel for tools and place fasteners for everything, everything, everything on it.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid furniture panel 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest exchanging it for a 4mm sheet of metal 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the countertop).
Well, actually, that’s why...
Test passed
Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.
Mounted the tool panel. Solid, made of 21 mm plywood.
4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals hanging tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking anything
I made the fronts for the drawers from the remains of 21-gauge plywood.
That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. Some things came out a bit crooked in places, but I'm very pleased with the result.
The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. The tabletop area is 1.65 square meters, the toolbar area is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right cabinets is almost one cubic meter. The special feature of the workbench is that you can sit at it while working with TIG, and the table top covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and panels allow me to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient, quick access to them.
This is the homemade workbench of your dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will also work on it.
P.S. And after a little modification you will get an excellent makeup table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/
Well, to put the finishing touches on the project, a few more photos.
The screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).
Over time, I’ll add wrenches, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Fortunately, there is room to turn around on two square meters. I made an awesome thing. Satisfied like an elephant.
Firstly, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.
Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of manufacture. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last me as long. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.
The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching a vice to bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vice and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop using anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds up to death.
Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would have been better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.
Otherwise it turned out great. All tools are in one place, visible and always ready. There is also room to spread out on the large tabletop.
You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:
All photos from the article
When carrying out carpentry work in your home, any amateur craftsman should have a convenient device for it. It will guarantee the comfort and safety of your activities, and will also significantly intensify them.
Our article is devoted to how to make a woodworking bench on your own.
Typical desktop design
A carpentry workbench, in essence, is a massive and extremely stable work table on which wooden workpieces of various sizes are processed. The larger the device, the heavier and larger elements can be processed on it.
At the same time, you can work on it with hand tools: saw, chisel, brace, etc., as well as mechanical ones: electric jigsaw, plane, drill, etc.
Layout of elements
A workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.
- The working surface (tabletop, lid) is made of boards. They must be dry and have a thickness of at least 5 - 6 cm. The best option is to use impregnated drying oil: oak, hornbeam, beech. Otherwise, the cover will wear out quickly.
- A vice is installed on the front side of the tabletop to secure the workpieces.
Note! If the length of the workbench is more than one meter, it is best to hang a couple of different vices for processing small and large elements. Large vices can be made of wood, and small ones can be made of metal.
- The supports (legs) are usually made of soft wood: linden, pine, maple, etc. They are connected to each other by longitudinally spaced planks. This way the structure gains strength and stability.
- Fixed on supports in the space below the workbench cover, you can place pull-out or tightly fixed shelves, drawers or cabinets for tools.
- On the front side of the tabletop, before making a workbench for wood, you should drill holes for mounting wedges, clamps and other devices for fixing large workpieces.
- A recess should be made on the back side of the cover, necessary for processing small parts.
This woodworking bench has a sturdy frame, a durable work surface and plenty of compartments for convenient storage of tools and accessories. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will add various useful additions gradually.
Tools for work
To process solid wood and sheet materials you will need the following tools:
- Hacksaw.
- Electric planer.
- Circular saw.
- Grinder machine.
- Drill and drill bits.
- Clamps.
- Screwdriver.
- Pencil.
- Square.
- Roulette.
- Brush.
Carpentry workbench frame
Take smooth pine boards without large knots with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for comfortable work by a craftsman with a height of 170–180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.
Table 1 - list of frame parts
|
Name |
Finish dimensions, mm |
Material |
Quantity |
|||
|
Leg detail |
||||||
|
Lower spacer |
||||||
|
Upper spacer |
||||||
|
Cross leg |
||||||
|
Cover cross member |
||||||
|
Longitudinal leg |
||||||
|
Longitudinal drawer |
||||||
|
Bottom shelf |
||||||
|
Table top spacer |
||||||
All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a 150 mm wide board at once.
Saw all the wooden pieces to length, with the exception of the spacers: it’s easier to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later “in place.”
Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Unfold the boards exactly in the middle.
Sharpen the parts and sand them with medium-grit sandpaper.
File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces from dust, apply glue to the small leg and to the end of the leg.
Squeeze the parts together with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.
Fasten the workpieces with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the remaining legs of the woodworking bench frame.
Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting when the workbench moves.
Prepare the joints connecting the legs with the longitudinal legs for gluing. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.
Screw all four legs into place.
Place the frame halves and longitudinal drawers on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.
File the parts and secure them with glue and screws.
Assemble the top frame of the woodworking bench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling guide holes for them.
Assemble the lower frame of the workbench, using clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.
Replace the top frame and level the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.
Cut out the bottom shelf from sheet material 16 mm thick and secure it to the bars
Workbench table top for carpentry work
Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the slabs in two layers and get a tabletop 32–40 mm thick.
Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 – edge strips (birch, maple); 2 – working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 – load-bearing board (chipboard, plywood or MDF).
For the countertop, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe will do. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the carpentry workbench lid measures 670x1940 mm.
Place narrow slabs toward the back wall and toward the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in the top layer of the countertop. Glue the cut pieces together.
Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges with a hand-held circular saw 20mm from the edge.
Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.
Sharpen slats for edge trims. Saw off the 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and secure it all with clamps.
This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the tabletop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.
Move the device to the other side and install the remaining pads. Sand the slats with a sander.
Drill a hole in the corner of the slab so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of its recess when replacing it.
Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, secure them with double-sided tape. Place a carpenter's vice on your workbench.
Boxes for storing tools in a carpentry table
When filling the space under the cover of a carpentry workbench, use a modular principle. It’s easier to make individual blocks and more convenient to change them later when you need space for a new tool. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.
Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 – full extension drawer; 2 – spacious plywood box; 3 – chipboard container; 4 – wide box; 5 – compartment for a portable tool box; 6 – space for cases and workpieces.
Use boxes from old furniture
Select suitable sized drawers from an unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.
Label the wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and eyes.
Trim the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on a circular saw.
Assemble the box “dry”, adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles to accurately assemble right angles.
Once the glue has dried, sand the corners and sides of the box, securing it in place for ease of work.
Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.
Calculation of a block for three drawers
File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw the guide rails with screws.
Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the drawers. Place the block inside the workbench with supports underneath it.
Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten the screws. Attach the chipboard to the top beams and to the legs of the workbench.
Install front covers on the drawers. Having marked the location of the housing, secure it with one screw. Insert the drawer into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the remaining screws.
Secure the remaining linings - the module with wide drawers is ready.
Carpentry table compartment for portable box
The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to enhance the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the body, take 16 mm thick chipboard and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.
Middle module housing: 1 – frame diagram; 2 – side wall; 3 – lower and upper panels.
Attach the guide strips to the sides, assemble the frame with screws and install it close to the right block.
Prepare the parts for the drawer.
Drawings of box elements: 1 – long wall; 2 – short wall; 3 – bottom; 4 – front trim; 5 – rail.
Use a circular saw to select grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts through. Move the saw fence 2 mm and make a test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the workpieces.
Assemble the module and install slats at the bottom that protect the edges of the chipboard from chipping and provide a “smoother” operation.
Secure the front panel with screws and place the drawer in place.
How to make modules with convenient drawers
The design of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the installation gap, so its width will be 26 mm less than the internal size of the case (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).
Module structure and box parts: 1 – assembly diagram; 2 – back and front walls; 3 – front panel; 4 – bottom; 5 – side walls.
Before assembling the case, secure the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides to the sides.
Installation diagram of guides on the walls of the housing.
Secure the finished module under the workbench lid.
To install the drawer rails, unclip the latches and pull out the small rails.
Fasten the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and the 10 mm gap between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.
Pull out the middle rails all the way.
Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the drawer is too tight, take it out and try again.
Replace the front trim.
How to make a carpentry workbench drawer from plywood
Saw the box body blanks from 10mm plywood, and for the bottom take a 5mm thick sheet.
Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 – front panel; 2 – rear liner; 3 – side wall; 4 – front liner.
Sand the workpieces with a grinder.
Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.
Glue and screw together the parts of the front and back walls.
Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.
Assemble the structure using angles and clamps.
Fasten the parts with screws, drilling guide holes.
Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.
Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench designed to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.
Cover the drawers and cut ends of the particle boards with finishing compound.
Connect power to your homemade workbench and start filling the containers with tools.
When we start renovation work or simply want to equip our home, we often face a number of problems and obstacles. And if we approach this issue professionally, then we should start with the correct equipment of our workplace. And in order to carry out all the necessary work around the house as efficiently as possible, you should first take care of the carpentry machine.
It is entirely possible for you to build a carpentry machine with your own hands, because this, in addition to the fact that a very useful little thing will appear in your household, is also a valuable experience, so to speak, an improvement in your skills. And if you can handle the carpentry machine, then there will be no point in doubting the success of your future endeavors.
So, let's get to work.
What will we need during the construction process?
To begin with, let's define that a carpentry machine is a kind of ordinary table, created for the convenience of working with wood. The minimum height for such a machine is about 70 centimeters.
Of course, in the process of work we will need lumber. It is advisable to stock up on planed timber, pre-processed and made in a single size (for this you will need a thickness planer). Thus, the construction of the structural frame will be significantly facilitated - a kind of foundation for the entire machine, which should have maximum strength. To fix the rigidity, we will need wedge elements that will be driven into the corresponding holes on the drawer ties. Such a simple manipulation will allow you, if the need arises, to dismantle the structure extremely quickly.
Let us note that the main condition for any kind of machine is functionality, which should be put in first place when making a workbench yourself. It should be as comfortable and easy as possible.
We build a carpentry workbench
First stage.
All jumpers must be cut into the legs, and then secured with screws or glue. As a cover we will use a ready-made canvas with dimensions of 40 by 610 by 1980 millimeters. We mark the installation height, checking your height.
We fix the thicknesser to the lower jumpers. We press the clamp to the surface of the table and cut out the corresponding marks on it, using a file with fine teeth. Where there will be a groove, we make several vertical marks. We remove all excess using a chisel. All this must be done with each of the four legs.
Workbench - photo
Jumpers must be carefully fitted to each leg. To fasten these jumpers, screws should be used, the length of which is 6.5 centimeters. We start with the lower ones and work up to the upper ones. There is an option for a simpler design, in which no grooves are required, and the jumpers will be directly attached to the legs using the same screws. In this case, they should protrude somewhat beyond the leg (by about one more thickness).
Third stage.
Actually, the end frame of the structure is assembled in the same way (as can be seen from the image below).
Fourth stage.
We fix the side frames in a horizontal position and install jumpers (we use the same method to fasten them). Each jumper is secured with three screws.
Next, we clean the frame, doing it so that everything - both the edges and the top jumpers - are on the same level. Then we take two bars, the length of which will be the length between the legs of our structure, we attach one of them to the back, and the other to the lid. The lid must be placed so that its back part protrudes beyond the limits by 1.2 centimeters. To fix the lid we use clamps.
Fifth stage.
Now it's time to attach the vice. We measure the vice, remove the cover and make a corresponding hole with a jigsaw. The bars that will pass in this place also need to be sawn. We put the lid back, fixing it with glue (you can use the same notorious screws) and install a vice (for this you will need to make through holes in the lid and the bars). Important: washers must be placed under the screw heads!
Sixth stage.
At the end, you can install overhead jaws, which are designed to ensure that the workpiece is not damaged during processing. They need to be glued to steel jaws.
Possibility of dismantling
I would also like to note that it does not make sense to build a monolithic structure in all cases. Often a person simply does not have enough space, so even at the preparatory stage it is necessary to find out whether the workbench will be moved, or whether it will be installed forever. If you dismantle it, it will take up much less space.
Video - workbench assembly diagram
The carpenter's workbench is the cornerstone of a woodworker's workshop. It allows you to properly organize your workspace, increase productivity and improve the quality of work, regardless of whether you are a fan of manual or electromechanical tools. In this material we will tell you how to make a classic wooden workbench with your own hands.
About carpentry workbenches
Design and purpose of the workbench
A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. A traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.
A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.
There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.
Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.
How to choose the optimal workbench height?
The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal table height is selected based on the height of the craftsman. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.
What materials are best to make the structure from?
A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.
Coniferous wood is traditionally used to make the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.
About making a workbench cover
Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.
When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.
Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls
The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.
The figured cutouts of the frames and supports (part A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.
In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.
On the outside of the legs, a conical recess is machined for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.
Sawing out tenons and eyes
Tenons and lugs are made on a sawing machine or by hand, following the basic principles of creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.
The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.
Side panel assembly
Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.
In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.
Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves
According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.
The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.
The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the supports.
According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.
Installation of the bench cover
On the back side of the bench board, blind holes d19 mm and depth 32 mm are drilled for dowels (L).
Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.
Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.
Installation of a bench vise
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter’s vice ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.
Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram of typical structures. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.
Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, the lead screw, the socket for the bench stops and the holes for the mounting screws.
The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.
Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.
Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.
