When making cement paving slabs, you can do without specific equipment, and to pave garden paths with your own hands, it is not at all necessary to have professional skills.
The budget option for creating a garden path is based on simple technological solutions that provide a reasonable balance between savings and quality.
Form for garden path. Where can I get molds for casting?
Start reducing your garden path costs with tile molds. Instead of purchasing ready-made plastic molds, stockpile frozen food containers that are made of non-crisp soft plastic and can withstand many casting cycles.
Paving elements made in such substrates differ little from factory ones and are well suited for paving pedestrian paths in the garden.
To cast large concrete products, build wooden forms with a bottom or frames from bars, placed on a flat surface when working. Homemade slabs with a thickness of 80 mm or more, reinforced inside with wire, can withstand significant loads and are suitable for constructing areas for barrels or covering parking lots for passenger cars.
Make round shapes by cutting old buckets (pots, trays, basins) into rings 35–60 mm wide. The elements of the original configuration emerge from narrow tin strips connected by a ring and bent at random. By laying tiles of different diameters, you will get an interesting path.
How to cast paving slabs
Before work, prepare the following equipment:
- Capacity 20–40 liters.
- Measuring bucket.
- Drill with a power of more than 700 W.
- Mixer attachment.
- Master OK.
- Jar and brush.
- Gloves.
Technical oil and a piece of polyethylene will come in handy. When buying cement for casting tiles yourself, take a high grade (400 or 500). Take sand that has been cleared of clay and plant inclusions, and use only clean water.
Operating procedure
Pour one share of cement and three sands into the container, stir the contents. Adding water little by little, continue to work with the mixer until a homogeneous porridge-like mass is obtained.
After letting the solution sit for a few minutes, stir again. Check the consistency - the mixture should be plastic and not slip off the trowel.
To make the product easier to remove, apply oil to the internal surfaces with a brush, carefully coating the corners and protruding edges.
Fill the mold two-thirds full with the solution, compacting thoroughly with a trowel.
Shake and rock the container to distribute the mixture evenly. Try to completely get rid of air voids.
Fill the substrate to the top with the solution, compact again and shake. Smooth the back of the tile, leaving small uneven surfaces for better adhesion when laying.
After filling out all the forms, place them in a shaded, draft-free area and cover with plastic wrap.
At temperatures of 20 °C and above, the tiles can be opened the next day, keeping the containers stationary.
After two days, remove the castings by carefully turning the molds over and lightly pressing on the plastic bottom. Stack them in rows no more than 5 high to dry.
Keep the homemade tiles under cover for three weeks until the concrete solution reaches its design strength.
How to lay cement tiles with your own hands
It is permissible to install a garden path intended only for pedestrian movement without serious preparation of the base if:
- In place of the path lies well-trodden soil, which has not been dug up or added to in recent years.
- The surface level is suitable in height and does not flood with water.
List of required equipment
- Construction car.
- Bucket.
- Shovels.
- Bubble level.
- Roulette.
- Pegs.
- Elastic twine.
- Hammers - rubber and metalworker's.
- Scissors.
- Broom.
- Hose with sprayer or watering can.
- Grinder, stone disc.
The installation of a leveling pad will require sand: one cart (approximately 6-7 buckets) per section of the path 2 m long and about 60 cm wide. The use of geotextiles will prevent possible washing out of the sand layer and reduce the germination of weeds, but even without it the path fabric will be quite durable .
Tile laying sequence
Having estimated the contours of the path, remove the vegetation with a bayonet shovel, cutting off the top layer of soil.
Hammer the pegs and stretch the twine along the border of the path, placing it at a height of 60–80 cm and aligning it in accordance with the planned slope.
Fill the hole with sand approximately 20–30 mm. Level the surface with a level, guided by the rope - create a more or less flat surface without bumps and depressions.
Water the leveling layer with a watering can until puddles begin to form. Add sand where necessary and pour it again. Check the quality of the sand cushion by walking on the surface. Shallow imprints remain - the layer is well compacted.
Cut a piece of geotextile material to size and cover the bottom of the trench with it, leaving small allowances on the sides.
Using sand sifted through a fine mesh, pour the mounting layer with a shovel.
Calculate the height of the tiles - the distance from the sand base to the twine should correspond to the thickness of the paving stones. Pull the sand out with a level and rake the excess towards yourself. Compact the sand layer with water, fill in the depressions if necessary.
Lay the first tile, leveling it with the twine and driving it deep with a rubber mallet.
Add sand when you need to install thinner paving stones. Homemade cement castings often have non-standard sizes.
Lay the remaining tiles end to end, making sure the surface is even. Generously add sand to the sides of the walkway and into the cracks.
Sweep the path with a broom, clearing the surface of the paving stones and pushing excess into the voids. Do not step on the tiles until the joints are completely filled.
Spray the laid paving cloth with a watering can, add sand to the gaps that appear and water again.
For each approach, prepare a strip about 2–2.5 m long. Having filled the area with paving slabs, move on. Lay the paving stones without gaps - over time, the concrete elements will move apart a little and seams of 3-4 mm will appear, necessary for thermal expansion.
If all the requirements of the considered technological chain are met, the result will be a durable garden path.
How to care for a garden path
Monitor the condition of the laid paving slabs, promptly clear leaves and prevent the path from flooding with melt water.
In winter, remove freshly fallen snow, do not let it cake, otherwise, with the advent of thaws, ice will form on the surface, which is difficult to remove without damaging the concrete slabs.
A clean, neat path or naturally overgrown spaces between the slabs with grass is a matter of taste.
Laying weed control material does not completely solve the problem. The vegetation still appears, but it is smaller and it is easier to remove - just pull out the shoots and replace the backfill of the joints.
Caring for a “wild” garden path is not difficult, and the procedure does not have to be performed every year. To return the path to its previous state you will need:
- Bucket.
- Manual weed remover.
- Grass shears.
- Broom.
- Garden fan.
Progress of work on cleaning the path
Remove large weeds on the sides of the path using a puller: stick the tool near the root, twist it around the shoot and pull the plant out by hand.
Tug the grass inside the canvas, first cutting the rhizome deeply with a knife.
Trim any excess plants along the path with garden shears.
Loosen the soil between the tiles with a knife to a depth of 2–3 cm.
Clean the joints with a plastic fan to about half the thickness of the laid pavers.
Walk along the path with a broom, sweeping away grains of earth.
That's all - your path is like new.
A paving layer laid on sand allows water to pass through perfectly, and minor movement of the tiles is eliminated by re-lining the damaged area. Any garden path sags during use, but the soft base allows you to correct defects quickly and with a minimum of effort.
If the owners plan to equip paths on their country plot or areas around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.
However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially since losses are possible during transportation, which means purchasing tiles with a reserve will also be an extra expense. That’s why many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount of money.
Advantages of making tiles yourself
It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable in design and color.
If you decide to start making paving slabs yourself, then you need to be prepared for quite labor-intensive work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the appearance that the owners intended when developing the landscape design of their properties.
The advantage of making it at home is that you can create an exclusive version of the tile yourself, which is not produced on an industrial scale, nor in general, nor by anyone else.
In the process of developing your own tile version, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even shapes, since casting matrices can also be made independently.
Molds for making paving slabs
If the store did not find a tile of the required configuration, or it was found, but the price is too high, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in quantities of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for landscaping paths and areas on the site.
paving slabs
To do this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, from which the molds are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern or a stone you like with its shape can be used as a starting sample.
The matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but during the production of the tiles the work will go much faster.
To make the mold you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.
The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20÷30 mm in height and 12÷15 mm in width. It must be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35÷60 mm. A plywood box, cardboard box or any other material that can withstand the pouring of plastic mold composition is suitable as formwork. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound or silicone sealant.
Polyurethane compound mold
In the assortment of construction stores you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stones and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them is the domestic composition “Silagerm 5035”, as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding compound is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table
| Hardness 30±3 | Hardness 40±3 | |
|---|---|---|
| Time for the formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more. | 45÷100 | 45÷100 |
| Viability (min), no more. | 60÷120 | 60÷120 |
| 3.0÷4.5 | 3.5÷5.0 | |
| 450÷600 | 400÷600 | |
| Shrinkage (%), no more. | 1 | 1 |
| Viscosity (cP). | 3000÷3500 | 3000÷3500 |
| Density (g/cm³), no more. | 1.07±0.02 | 1.07±0.02 |
The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:
- The sample for making the matrix must be thoroughly washed and dried.
- Next, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax lubricant.
- Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in a 2:1 ratio, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to maintain the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.
If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer attachment, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will end up with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.
- The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is placed face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
- Upon completion of pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the pouring should sit for 5-7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
- After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the form can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to be used for its intended purpose only 72 hours after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80÷120 degrees.
- The mold made from the compound will last a long time if it is treated with the special composition “Tiprom 90” before filling it with mortar for making tiles.
This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.
brick paving slabs
Silicone matrix
The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general, similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as sealant. You need to buy as much of it as you need to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, you should open the original packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. Regular grease is most often used as a lubricant.
A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.
If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.
To distribute the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which is dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.
A thick layer of silicone takes much longer to dry than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the mold for the tiles in advance, for example, devoting winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or at least at positive temperatures .
When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.
The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:
| Main indicators of the material | Normalized values | Test results |
|---|---|---|
| Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (min) no more. | 30 | 5÷25 |
| Viability (h), no more. | 8 | 6÷8 |
| Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less | 0.1 | 0.4÷0.6 |
| Elongation at break (%), not less. | 300 | 400÷600 |
| Flow resistance (mm), no more. | 2 | 0÷1 |
| Water absorption by mass (%) no more. | 1 | 0.35÷0.45 |
| Density (g/cm³), no more. | 1200 | 1100÷1200 |
| Durability, conventional years, no less. | 20 | 20 |
It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to make matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on a suburban site may not differ at all from those in the neighborhood.
When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (unless particularly necessary, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.
Making paving slabs at home
Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do it. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, you cannot do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.
Making square tiles using a plastic mold
Square tiles can be called traditional. It never goes out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and neatness. It is especially important to use this tile option to design the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | In this case, a plastic mold measuring 300x300 mm and 30 mm thick is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is called “California shagreen”. Plastic molds are convenient because they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during laying of the solution, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and to make it easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with a greasy lubricant before pouring the solution. |
 | To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg. |
 | In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml. |
 | To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile may change. |
 | Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose this mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed. |
 | So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment. |
 | The next step is to mix water, dry dye and plasticizer until smooth in a separate container. |
 | As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained. |
 | The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture. |
 | All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer - this process must be carried out for at least 3-5 minutes. |
 | After kneading, you should get a fairly thick, viscous, coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density during the process of laying it out in the mold and compacting it. |
 | Next, the resulting mixture is poured into a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix. |
 | The mass must be distributed as evenly as possible over the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix. |
 | Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed using a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with solution, it must be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled. |
 | Next, the matrix is “shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaken, air bubbles will emerge from the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops escaping completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table yourself. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and may change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally. |
 | After the required period of time has passed, the matrix is turned over and the tile is carefully removed from it. |
 | If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold to make the product come away from it more easily. |
 | The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must completely dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying a full load to the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production. |
Production of original paving slabs “pine cut” in polyurethane form
The original design of platforms and paths is the laying of round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual rotting and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles that imitate a cut of wood will be an excellent replacement for natural material.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to do than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called “pine cut” because it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and a relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of roughened pine bark. |
 | To manufacture such products, a flexible polyurethane mold is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which will later help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult. |
 | To get a core with “annual rings”, one such tile will require white cement 100÷150 g, medium sand - 300÷350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20÷25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water. |
 | Water, colorant and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well. |
 | Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All ingredients are mixed well until smooth. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water. |
 | The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture. |
 | The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax lubricant. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a deceptive impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only over the inner part of the form, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side separating the middle part of the “round timber” from the improvised “bark”. |
 | The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. The mixture cannot be diluted, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid one below, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile. |
 | Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, after the initial distribution the mold is moved back and forth across the table surface and gently shaken. |
 | Next, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly onto the mold. |
 | After this, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allocated for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above. |
 | The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60÷70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg. |
 | Sand and cement are mixed well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer. |
 | Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, part or all of the remaining solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly. |
 | Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in the matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree. |
 | Then, the mixture is laid out over the entire surface of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue; one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made. |
 | Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it. |
 | The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden. |
 | After 24 hours, the matrix is carefully turned over. |
 | Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high. |
 | The finished tile must completely dry and gain strength; this will require at least 2-3 days. When drying, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable. |
 | If you decide to make a mold for such tiles yourself, then as a basis you need to take natural round timber from any wood you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound during the manufacturing process of the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not be achieved. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small edge will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can carefully fill it yourself with a grout or regular cement composition. |
Paving slabs made “on site” using a stencil
Another affordable way to arrange garden paths is to fill them with concrete using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly improve not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.
This instruction can help you figure out how to properly prepare the space for paths and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.
cobweb paving slabs
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | For such work, you will need to prepare the following tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing the solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable to deliver the mixture to the pouring site. After familiarization with the work process, each master can add tools to the list that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list. |
 | Materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for laying on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it must be taken into account that from one 50 kg bag of cement you can get 6 ÷ 7 slabs measuring 600 × 600 mm and 60 mm thick. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unfenced area the path will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse. |
 | A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after concrete is poured into it and it gains strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, separated by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are attached, which will help you easily remove the stencil from the set concrete. |
 | In order for the path to serve for a long time and not be overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for filling it. To do this, first of all, the fertile layer of soil is removed from the marked area, approximately 100–120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the sprouting grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again. |
 | If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the path is formed. |
 | Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared area, treated from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its unique reinforcement, coarse crushed stone can be laid in the internal space of the mold. |
 | The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be made as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, a dye is added. |
 | If 5-6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is mixed in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement you need to prepare 250 grams. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine crushed stone, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Add enough water to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are being made, then it is permissible to add color in an amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be. |
 | The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners. |
 | The solution is spread with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, it will be easy to place the mass in the corners under the stencil bridges. It is better to add more mixture than required than not to add it, since the excess can be easily removed with a trowel. |
 | The solution is leveled along the upper bridges of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of future tiles to perfect smoothness, since their wear resistance and durability will depend on this. |
 | After waiting 20-30 minutes for the solution to set, the stencil is removed from the tile by grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet hardened completely, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile if you move awkwardly. |
 | The result should be a concrete slab. |
 | The form removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, maintaining a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, sand bedding or a support made of flat stone or ceramic tiles is made in one or two corners. |
 | Next, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed. |
 | If the path is framed by borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the slabs and borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of special lawn grass, which rises only 30-50 mm. |
 | The spaces between the slabs can also be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, which can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs. |
 | If desired, during the manufacturing process of such a coating it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula. |
 | If you want to add some color to your garden plot, you can make the tiles multi-colored by filling the cells of the stencil with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always lift your spirits. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. This way the work will be more efficient, since a solution of the same color can be used to fill areas in several stencils at once. |
When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must definitely ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all the work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.
The stencil will greatly facilitate the work of arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, having only two or three similar matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the areas of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.
Another important point. When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying them correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if you can’t do the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will be at least equal to the cost of the tiles themselves.
The stencil will not allow you to make serious mistakes. Even without any experience in this field, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality, neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased care is shown, and the novice master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.
Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs to look like natural wood
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Paving slabs are an element of decorative design of residential areas. Recently, it has become a real calling card of local areas.
Paving slabs, just like paving stones, differ relatively low cost, and if the hard road surface is made by hand, then the total cost of consumables is significantly reduced. How to make paving slabs at home? Before you start making paving slabs at home, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical aspect of the issue.
Production of paving slabs at home: manufacturing principles
In industrial conditions, the process of producing paving slabs is put on stream. In a short time, huge quantities of tiles and paving stones leave the plant. When making paving slabs at home production principles somewhat change. The basic technological algorithm remains unchanged, only the volume of produced material and its type are adjusted. High-quality work will allow you to achieve paving slabs that are not much inferior to the factory model.
Manufacturing technology DIY paving slabs are based on two directions: vibration casting method and vibration pressing method. Both can be used at home with special equipment. You can build individual devices with your own hands.
Undried tile material contains a small amount of liquid. In both production methods, the wet concrete mass is exposed to a vibration wave to eliminate accumulated air bubbles. When vibrocasting, the solution acquires a more liquid consistency, so it is served in flexible forms. There it is kept until the initial drying. The second method, as its name suggests, involves applying pressure to form tile segments in a matrix. For this, a special vibration platform is used. After such mechanical influences, the workpieces are removed and placed to dry.
Necessary equipment and materials
Since the tiles are made of concrete, the first thing you need to do is purchase concrete mixer. It is better if it is a forced-action concrete mixer that functions like a mixer. You can’t do without a vibrating table, molds for casting and lubrication, concrete mix, metal rods for reinforcement, and racks for drying finished products.
Drying in one layer under a canopy requires a large free space. Completed forms must not be stacked on top of each other. The products are placed on shelves so that there is a gap of at least 20 cm between them.
In construction hypermarkets you can purchase molds for casting of any size and various configurations. There are forms from:
- rubber (the most durable);
- plastics;
- polyurethane.
The assortment is very wide, the manufacturer produces them according to individual orders, be it forms with drawings, textured surface or mold for glossy paving slabs.
Lubricant is needed to carry out problem-free stripping of workpieces after the concrete has hardened. It can be purchased ready-made or made with your own hands. simplest lubricant recipe: 100 g of mineral oil is mixed with three liters of water until an emulsion is formed.
The main thing: it is necessary to achieve the required level of fat content, otherwise the lubricant can give the finished tiles an unpresentable appearance.
How to prepare a solution for paving slabs?
Making mortar for hard road surfaces – key moment the entire technological process. The solution consists of:
- hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 2-10 mm or granite screenings or gravel;
- purified washed sand;
- Portland cement;
- concrete plasticizer;
- dry dyes;
- water.
The composition of the solution for paving slabs varies depending on what properties of the finished product are of interest to the consumer.
There is nothing complicated in preparing a mixture for paving slabs or paving stones, but careful preparation of the components and methodical adherence to all stages are required. The amount of each ingredient is easily calculated when the required proportions of the volume of substances are known.
First of all, prepare additional components– plasticizer and concrete dye. The latter is used for the production of colored paving slabs. When making products of the usual gray color, there is no need for it.
The plasticizer, as a rule, makes up no more than a percentage of the total amount of all parts of the mixture. To mix 80 liters of concrete you need 400 g of plasticizer. It should be noted that it is not added dry. In small portions, 400 g of plasticizer is poured into 2 liters of water heated to 70 degrees.
The dye accounts for approximately 2% of all components of the polymer mixture. Approximately 700 g of dye is added to water (2.5 l), heated to 50 degrees, and stirred thoroughly.
The inner walls of the concrete mixer must be moistened. For this purpose, the device is rinsed from the inside, then the water is drained. The ratio of the cement mixture to the liquid determines how strong the concrete product will be.
To make high-quality paving slabs, the concrete being mixed must be half wet. This effect is achieved by adding 25% less water than cement. An illustrative example: for six buckets of cement (this includes plasticizer and dye) you need four buckets of water.
First, water is poured into the concrete mixer, after which a portion of cement is added. As a result stirring You should get a homogeneous emulsion. After adding screenings to the resulting emulsion, a solution is obtained that must be thoroughly mixed. Next, you should pour in the pre-diluted plasticizer and dye. The polymer composition is kneaded until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
You can make a mixture for paving slabs using manual stirring, but this method requires good physical preparation and additional time.
Molds for making paving slabs
An important role in the manufacture of paving slabs is played by the molds for the production of such a building product. The most common among them are plastic, rubber, and polyurethane. Each type has its own characteristics and technical characteristics. Thus, molds made of rubber can withstand about five hundred production cycles. Rubber molds are not steamed and do not require any additional equipment.
Often when paving paths they use paving stones, which has a relief surface. In such cases, it is advisable to use polyurethane forms. The mortar in them quickly sets, and the finished elements are easily removed. Polyurethane synthetic fibers, being high-strength, practically do not allow the appearance of defective products. Forms made from this modern structural material can withstand about a hundred cycles without any complaints. How to make molds for tiles with your own hands?
Instructions for making a mold for paving slabs with your own hands:
- To make plastic molds, a special frame is prepared. The internal dimensions of the wooden frame must correspond to the dimensions of the tiles. The plastic is melted and poured into the structure. After the plastic has hardened (approximately 40–60 minutes), the finished mold is removed. The uneven edges of the resulting product are processed using sandpaper.
- If pouring silicone is used to make molds, then a pre-prepared container matrix is required. It can be made from some durable material. The seams are sealed with sealant. Screws are used to fasten the walls of the container. The frame is cleaned and degreased. The silicone ingredients are mixed in the required ratio: base, hardener, catalyst. Sculptural plasticine is placed in a thick layer into the matrix. A model is placed on top of the plastic material, which is used to take an impression. Before this, it is lubricated with sunflower oil. Next, silicone is poured in in a thin stream. After 24 hours, the materials will harden and the finished forms will be removed from the container. Small defects and irregularities are removed using scissors.
- You can make a wooden mold without a bottom using bars. From prepared wooden planks, fastened with metal corners, you can get a rectangular, square or hexagonal molding structure.
Why do you need a vibrating table?
The procedure for manufacturing paving slabs involves the use of an equipped vibrating table. Beginners in this business are strongly recommended to use vibrating table, since it is unlikely that without its use it is possible to obtain high-quality paving slabs or paving stones. This is explained by the fact that even the most plastic material is not able to tightly fill the mold without the formation of air voids.
Not everyone can afford expensive equipment, so you can make a vibration table yourself. You will need an unnecessary electric motor in working order and two thick plywood sheets. The engine is attached to these sheets of plywood on two opposite sides. A metal disk is attached to the rotating motor shaft, which creates vibration when the mechanism is turned on. The homemade structure is placed on car tires.
The forms filled with cement composition are laid out on a vibrating table, which is turned on for 15-20 seconds. This time is enough for the solution to thicken and air cavities to disappear from it. Elimination of air space and compaction of the mixture significantly improves strength future paving slabs. A finished paving element that has not been compacted by vibration will soon collapse. Such tiles are used only as a temporary path. This fact must be taken into account when the question is how to make a tiled paving so that it lasts for many years.
How to properly reinforce paving slabs?
Increases the strength of the pavement covering tile reinforcement metal elements. They use both construction reinforcing mesh, hot-rolled wire, and pieces of ordinary reinforcement. The metal pieces are covered with unpainted cement mortar, compacted and the surface is smoothed.
With the described technology for the production of paving slabs, the front side is placed at the bottom of the mold. This circumstance creates difficulties: it is impossible to monitor the design, color and condition of the front side.
To be able to control everything, it is necessary to lay the cement mixture and reinforcement in the reverse order. This will allow you to accurately apply the pattern to the tile, deepening each piece to the desired level.
If desired, perform ironing of the workpiece. Thanks to this procedure, the product acquires special strength, and its surface becomes more even and smooth. Dry cement is poured onto the damp surface and smoothed with a spatula. You can also rub in a small amount of cement with a brush.
Drying and stripping
The forms with the solution are placed on racks for further drying. It lasts approximately 2-4 days. The place for drying products is chosen so that it does not receive direct sunlight, there should be good ventilation. To reduce the rate of moisture evaporation from the cement composition, the forms are covered with a polyethylene film.
If the forms were made with your own hands from wooden planks, then the fastener is removed at some joint, after which the frame is moved apart and the tile is removed. The tiles are laid in one layer and dried for ten days in a ventilated area to become more durable.
To release the tile from the polyurethane mold, it is lowered into a bath of water heated to 70 degrees. The polymer will soften and the tile can be easily removed from the mold. The product is dried in a cool place. After ten days, the paving elements are ready for use.
Every person who has his own private home knows about cement and concrete production technology. Based on this, making paving slabs at home will not be an innovation for him.
Since there are several types of production, the vibration casting method will be the most profitable and simplest for self-production. In this case, the solution is placed in molds and subject to compaction on a special vibrating table.
Technology for home production of paving slabs
The technology for producing paving slabs is very simple. But you need to know some points when planning the production process. To carry out the manufacturing process, you need to know 2 main directions: .
Block making machine diagram
They have some differences between themselves. This is subsequently reflected in the prepared products.
The technology for making paving slabs at home will require the purchase of an expensive unit, namely a heat chamber and a vibration process.
The solution with water is poured into the mold, then compaction occurs using vibration and pressure. At the end of these procedures, the workpiece is sent to the drying chamber. The strength is obtained due to the fairly high humidity and temperature, which is excellent for installation in places with heavy loads.
Making paving slabs with your own hands helps compact the mixture under vibration, that is, it spreads evenly over the shape and is compacted. The mold is moved to the racks for drying.
The workpiece is dried in molds
After two days, the finished tiles are pulled out.
Vibration casting at home
Vibratory casting is suitable for the production of paving slabs at home. To do this, you need to purchase inexpensive equipment and tools. As for the vibrating table, it is not difficult to build it yourself. To start making tiles, you must follow these steps:
- preparation of molds;
- mixing the solution;
- forming in a vibrating table;
- holding and drying in molds;
- removal of tiles.
Paving slabs, which were made using vibration technology, are excellent for garden paths. If we are talking about a car park, then it is best to use pressed products.
Pressed tiles are best used for installation in car showrooms
Equipment and tools for the production of paving slabs
Before starting work, you need to prepare equipment and tools. If a person can make a vibrating table on his own, then a vibrating pressing machine must be purchased ready-made.
Then you need to choose a shape for the tile. According to the standard, it is square or in the form of a brick. For this type it is necessary to make formwork from plywood or wood. If we consider the production of paving slabs at home as more complex options, then it is better to use polyurethane or silicone molds. With their help, the tiles turn out just like in the store. It is also possible to make tiles similar to natural stone.
Material for production
The basis of any technology is concrete. The following components are required for this:
- water;
- cement;
- crushed stone;
- river sand;
- slaked lime or other plasticizer;
- additives and colors.
To end up with a homogeneous mass, you need to use additional tools: a concrete mixer or a construction mixer. The first tool is designed for large volumes.
Before preparing concrete, you need to prepare a dye. It is necessary for making colored tiles. If ordinary paving slabs are made in gray color, then there is no need to use color.
Manufacturing instructions
The walls of the concrete mixer must be slightly damp, so the inside is rinsed with water and then drained. The proportion of water and cement to obtain the required solution must be accurate, otherwise the concrete product will be fragile.
Proportions for making paving slabs
Making paving slabs with your own hands requires mixing the concrete half wet. This is done as follows: there must be 30% less water than cement. For example, 3 buckets of cement are filled with 2 buckets of water.
First, water is added to the concrete mixer, and then the required amount of cement is added. After this, the components need to be mixed and brought to a homogeneous mass. Screenings are added, then a ready-made solution is obtained. After thorough mixing, slaked lime, previously well mixed, is poured in, as well as dye, if necessary.
You need to stir until you get a homogeneous mass. Mixing the solution is easy to do by hand. This requires good physical preparation, as well as a reserve of time.
So that later cleaning and stripping does not bring additional fuss and does not take time, it is necessary to lubricate the mold with a special lubricant.
Be sure to grease the mold for easy removal.
The layer thickness should not be too large, as the product will deteriorate due to bubbles. To successfully carry out the process, it is better to use aerosol lubricants.
Faster and higher-quality tiles can be done with your own hands if a person uses the help of another assistant. He will help you quickly bring the necessary tool or thing.
As for the dye, it must be dissolved in hot water in advance.
You can make paving slabs at home without a vibrating table, but in this case the quality will not be achieved.
After the forms are filled with the solution on the vibrating table, they must be removed and placed on the rack. Hardening occurs within 2 days. When it gets hot, the molds need to be moistened with a sprayer to prevent the concrete from hardening prematurely.
The process is completed by a stage such as stripping.
It occurs three days after pouring. Care must be taken here, because the tiles have not yet completely dried and have not gained sufficient strength.
To make the product as strong as possible, it is recommended to dip the molds in hot water at a temperature of 50 to 70 degrees. After 5 minutes, the paving slabs are removed, but before that you need to tap them with a rubber mallet.
After completing the process, the tiles should dry and lie for another 7-8 days. Shrink film is designed for this purpose.
The nuances of tinting hand-made paving stones
To paint tiles, you must use organic or mineral pigments. Artificial colors have a fairly high coloring power and are resistant to temperature changes. Using natural pigments you can create muted natural tones.
There are 2 tinting options:
- diluting the dye in the raw mass;
- painting on the finished product.
Painting paving slabs
The first method will require a lot of cash investment. The price of dry dyes that are water-repellent is quite high. And for the color to exceed all expectations, you will need to add 7% of the total mass of concrete.
The second method is more difficult. The quality of painting depends only on time. To make the task easier, it is recommended to use a spray gun. This option has one drawback - uniform coloring will be very difficult to obtain.
The form is filled with colored concrete, but only up to half. Regular cement goes on top. The time between fillings should not exceed 20 minutes.
Advantages of paving slabs
At this moment, paving slabs are in great demand. It has some advantages:
- vapor permeability and moisture permeability of the coating;
- constructing paths using a more complex method independently;
- suitability of repair;
- aesthetics. It appears in all sorts of colors and shapes. If desired, craftsmen can lay out an ornament or some kind of pattern on the path in the garden or dacha.
Schemes for laying paving slabs
Decorative tiles with stone
Paving stones with stones in the landscape style of a private house look quite interesting. The method for making paving slabs at home is quite simple. The usual composition of the solution will help to build attractive country paths. It is often used in combination with natural materials.
To make decorative tiles with stone, you should prepare molds of various sizes. Boards will help you make large squares, and plastic containers are perfect for miniature tiles. River stones must be thoroughly cleaned and all the necessary components must be prepared to prepare the mixture.
It is very important to maintain the ratio of mixing sand with concrete, water and dye. After preparing the solution, you should take care of the form. It is required to lay out a horizontal platform of boards and put polyethylene under the formwork.
Thoroughly coat the mold itself with machine oil. The mixture should be evenly distributed over the area of the mold; a trowel will be useful for this. Then the stones are laid out, they must be selected by color and size, and then placed over the entire area of the mixture. Upon completion, the stones must be added to the solution.
The forms are covered with cellophane and dried for 4 days. The preparations must be sprayed with water 2 times a day. At the moment when the tile begins to move away from the formwork, it should be pulled out and dried without a form.
Making paving slabs with your own hands is quite a fascinating process. With the help of precise instructions, everyone can easily make high-quality and original tiles. It will serve for a long time in the garden or yard. If a person is unsure that the product will be durable during the manufacturing process, then he should study the topic in more detail.
Video: DIY paving slabs
Landscape design has long and firmly entered our lives. I want to make the suburban area not only useful, but also beautiful. And for this it is necessary to introduce original and beautiful elements there.
The uniqueness of the site is given by original paths, if the paving slabs are made and laid with your own hands according to your own sketches. It can be used to lay out not only paths, but also playgrounds and patios.
Paving slabs are a modern covering for city streets, squares, sidewalks, paths. A more environmentally friendly material compared to asphalt - it does not melt in the heat, does not emit harmful substances, does not interfere with plants, and can withstand large temperature changes. Very convenient to use.
Unlike gravel paths, tiled surfaces are more aesthetically pleasing. If you have an artistic education or just good skills, you can lay out entire mosaic paintings on the road. Original hand-made porch tiles will decorate the entrance to the house. In addition, such a surface will be easier to clean.
This coating is easy to repair by replacing the damaged element with a new one. You can let your imagination fly and create surfaces of any configuration and pattern. And anti-slip paving tiles, made with your own hands from modern components, will help you avoid falling even in rain or ice.
The original solution is paving slabs for the lawn. It turns out to be a kind of “lattice” on the lawn. The grass continues to grow, but you can walk on it without trampling it, because there is now a special path there.
Often, plastic paving slabs are used for these purposes to allow grass to grow. So there are now a lot of modern options for designing paths and playgrounds in country houses, for every taste and income.
Benefits of homemade tiles
Now on the market there is a wide selection of various tiles, all colors, shapes and materials. You can find craftsmen who will make paths of any complexity. Why do you need hand-made paving slabs?
The homemade version has a number of significant advantages:
- Availability of raw materials and inexpensive equipment.
- Originality. There are endless options for coloring, shapes and arrangement of individual elements.
- Lower cost compared to purchased materials.
- Savings on laying paths, delivery and unloading of materials, etc.
- High-quality samples will not be inferior to factory ones. And they will surpass them in diversity.
- By using imagination and artistic taste, you can achieve such a variety of colors that cannot be found in store samples.
- If technology is followed and quality materials are used, such paths are very durable.
- You can achieve 100% uniqueness and exclusivity in design.
- We must also take into account that the purchased material, despite the high price, is not always highly reliable. As a result, the coating will quickly become unusable and will need to be replaced. Again, additional time and costs. If you install it yourself, you can be sure that the coating will last the required period.
- Having mastered the technology, you can make tiles to order, for friends, acquaintances or for sale.
Disadvantages of the method
It should be noted right away that the manufacturing process is quite labor-intensive. If a person does not have free time and the skill to do something with his own hands, then this method is not suitable. Craftsmen should take note of this.
Homemade tiles are unlikely to withstand large trucks or heavy equipment. At home, it is unlikely that it will be possible to comply with the rules for paving stones.
But for designing paths on a personal plot, this is an ideal option.
Casting molds
First you need to decide what configuration the future tile will be, based on this, and you need to choose the appropriate shape. For example, the simplest and most budget option is plastic food boxes - containers.
DIY mold for casting paving slabs - video
If you use them, you will get rectangular paving slabs. Or square, depending on the container. In the same way, brick paving stones are made with your own hands.
A square or rectangle is the simplest configuration.
For a novice master, it is best to start with a simple option. But if you want something more sophisticated, you can offer a hexagon option - a honeycomb tile. They are also easy to make, but look more interesting.
How to make simple forms for paving slabs - video tips, drawings
For more sophisticated configurations, you will have to purchase purchased “molds”. They are available in stores and come in rubber, plastic or polyurethane. The price varies depending on how long they will last and how many fills they will last for.
Skilled craftsmen do not spend money on purchased forms. And they are made right on the job site, separating places for future fillings with planks, planks or other similar material.
Paving slabs without special shapes - video
But for beginning craftsmen it is better to purchase ready-made matrices. In addition, they already have a design that will be imprinted on the finished tile. In this case, you can try to make figured and relief blanks, such as turtle tiles.
Necessary materials
- Cement. To make cement-sand tiles durable and high-quality, you need to take cement grade M400, or better yet M500. Then the solution will be reliable, water- and frost-resistant. You should only use fresh cement; after a short storage period, it significantly loses its properties.
- Filler for solution. This is crushed stone, slag, pebbles, sand. The sand must be fine, clean, sifted and free of impurities.
- Water, preferably distilled.
- Plasticizer for tiles. Served in stores.
- Dye (add optional).
- Fiber fiber to increase the strength of the product (especially if it is made of color).
- Mold lubricant. Any machine oil (can be used), soap, vegetable oil (if you don’t mind). If you do not lubricate, the frozen product will stick to the walls and will be difficult to remove without spoiling it.
- Vibrating table for vibration processing of a future product.
Material ratio:
- cement – 23%;
- sand – 20%;
- crushed stone – 57%;
- plasticizer – 0.5% of cement;
- water – 40% of dry ingredients.
Note!
The solution should not be liquid! A minimum of water will make the concrete stronger and prevent cracking in cold weather. When laying and compacting properly mixed concrete into a mold, milk will not form on its surface!
Operating procedure
To prepare the solution at home, use a tool with an attachment in the form of a mixer or, if available, a concrete mixer. If the volume is very small, you can mix with your hands.
The main thing is to achieve homogeneity of the mixture. There should be no lumps in it, the consistency should resemble dough - not too thick, but not liquid either. Therefore, you should not overdo it with adding water.
It is recommended to first mix sand, cement and plasticizer. Then add crushed stone (or whatever replaces it). All mixed ingredients are poured into a container with water carefully and in a thin stream. You need to stir constantly.
DIY paving slabs - video
Before pouring the mixture, the surface of the mold should be treated with some kind of oil, for example, machine oil. Immediately after pouring the matrix, you need to place it on a vibrating table.
Why is vibration processing of fills needed?
At this stage, the smallest air bubbles are removed from the mixture. If they are not eliminated, water will get into them in winter and the tiles will begin to crack.
At home, you can try replacing the vibrating table with a washing machine, after first placing one wet rag in it to create vibration. If pouring is done directly on the spot, then the container with the solution must be shaken thoroughly before use.
The molds filled with the solution must be immediately installed on the machine and turned on. The main thing is to make sure that the fills do not fall due to vibration. Approximate time: 3 minutes. Do not shake for any longer, otherwise the solution will begin to separate. When the solution “settles down”, you should add more solution.
When the vibration is over, the forms removed from the machine should be removed for two days, allowed to stand so that they do not dry out too much, and then covered with film. The room should be warm and dry, moisture ingress is unacceptable.
After two days, carefully remove the finished product and store it in some room for 10 days. You cannot stack tiles on top of each other or store them in a pile; they are not yet strong enough for this.
To ensure durability, they should then be kept for at least another month in the open air, and only then used.
Coloring paving slabs
If you want to get a colored coating, then you need to take care of purchasing suitable dyes. Choose ones that will withstand any weather conditions.
You can paint in several ways. 
- Add liquid or dry dye to the concrete mixture. If you mix completely, the mixture will become uniform. But you can also achieve multi-colored stains if you do not mix completely.
- Pour paint into the mold, in this case you will get a material with partial coloring.
- You can also paint the finished coating using a spray gun to ensure that the painted layer is even.
Errors in the manufacture of paving slabs
If the master is still just a beginner, it will be difficult to avoid mistakes during work. But it is necessary to list the main ones, then the work will be easier.
- Unsuitable cement. An attempt to save money will lead to the fact that the finished product will quickly begin to deteriorate.
- Unsuitable sand. It must be sifted, otherwise excess inclusions, even completely unnoticeable ones, will create voids. Which will lead to rapid wear.
- Excess or lack of water. The wrong amount of liquid spoils the quality of the product.
- Poor quality lubricant. Grease the mold with a thin layer. Often machine oil can produce black spots. So it's better to test it first.
- Failure to use plasticizer. It significantly improves the quality of the coating, so it’s better not to give it up.
- Demolding too quickly, earlier than two days.
- Improper storage - in the rain, sun, cold.
- Using too quickly. Finished products should be kept for three weeks to a month, only then they should be laid out on paths. If they are dried in very hot weather, they should be moistened with water to prevent them from drying out and cracking.