Photos of this undoubtedly interesting sawing table were provided to us by Alexey Kuznetsov, for which we thank him very much.
Let's take a closer look at it: Classic table with four legs, reinforced with several drawers. The tabletop is two-layer. In it, a groove for the carriage is selected on the left.
The carriage has a U-shape with triangular slopes.
Another view from the other side. There is a switch on one leg of the table.
There is a rip fence on the right original design. There is also a step in the tabletop for it.
The fixation of the stop is quite original. The thumbscrew pulls back the hook, which presses the stop against the table.
The mounting of the Elitech PD 2000 saw itself is even more original. The standard base from the saw is dismantled, and the saw itself is mounted on a movable plywood tripod with two degrees of freedom. This frame is attached to the tabletop with a pair of card loops. 0
You can adjust the depth of cut, as well as the inclination saw blade. By loosening and tightening the “wings” in the arched holders.
In order not to lose the cutting depth, a niche was selected in the tabletop from below 
into which the base of the bed goes. That is, the engine literally lies on the tabletop from the inside at maximum reach of the saw blade. 
Another plan for mounting from the inside. 
I think that from the photo all the main points are clear. If you have any questions, you can ask them in a group or on a website page, the author will definitely answer.
I’ve been using this table all the time, for about a year now. The saw mount works very well, I didn’t expect such a result. The cut is always precise. It is necessary to redo the guide groove, I will make two of them from an aluminum profile, plus tilt and lift elevators. Honestly, even if it were possible to buy a circular one, I would not buy and overpay a lot of money because the result is the same. The main thing when fastening the saw is to very accurately calculate the parallels and perpendiculars, and that’s all.
The question is how to make your own milling table, many home craftsmen ask. This is understandable: equipment on which the milling cutter is fixed motionless and the workpiece moves on a work table specially equipped for this purpose is in many cases much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a manual router, the workpiece is fixed on a regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which makes it impossible to maintain precision processing.
A router table significantly increases labor productivity and efficiency when working with a hand router. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home. It is much more economical to make a milling table yourself. It won't take long and will require very little financial costs. Any home craftsman can cope with this task if desired.
Using a homemade table for a manual router when processing wood products, you can achieve results that can be obtained with professional milling machines. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed efficiently: cutting shaped holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.
You can see the structure of a factory-made milling table in the video below. We will try to do no worse, and in some ways even better and, most importantly, cheaper.
A homemade milling table, which you will equip your home machine with, will give you the opportunity to perform processing not only wooden blanks, but also products made from chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With the help of such a homemade milling table, you can make grooves and splines, process elements of tongue-and-groove joints and tongue-and-groove joints, chamfer and create decorative profiles.
A homemade table for a router, the production of which does not require large financial expenditures, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It will only be necessary to secure the tool itself - a manual milling cutter, for which you can use the stand of a drilling machine or a workbench. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies have started manufacturing milling tables and accessories for them, but you will have to pay a decent amount of money for such a device. A homemade table for equipping a milling machine, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior in functionality to models produced in production conditions, and it will cost much less.
Milling table drawings: option No. 1
Milling table drawings with detailed analysis designs of main components and their dimensions.
Blueprints homemade table for hand router (click to enlarge)
Dimensions of parts Sectional table Double-layer table cover Cutout in the first layer of the table
Marking the cutout of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cutout according to the markings of the second layer Drawing of the rip fence
Stop end plate Dust extraction pipe 
Plexiglas safety shield Comb clamp and locking block
Milling table design
If you wish, you can make a homemade milling table from a regular workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a milling cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the bed used to fix the milling cutter must be different high stability and reliability. It should also be taken into account that milling device attaches to the bottom of the router table top, so there should be enough free space underneath.
When attaching the device to the top of a homemade table for a manual router, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity, or special clamps for a milling machine. Such a plate can be made from metal sheet, textolite or durable plywood. The bases of most router models already have threaded holes; these are what are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads into them, or use special clamps for a milling machine.
The clamps for the milling machine or the mounting plate must be located at the same level as the tabletop; for this purpose, the latter is sampled with the appropriate dimensions. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary to connect it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others so that such a plate can be fixed to the base of the router. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must have a countersunk head.
To make turning on your device more convenient, you can place a regular button on the tabletop, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device safer in operation. To improve your convenience home machine You can attach a long metal ruler to the surface of a milling table made for a manual router with your own hands.
Before you start designing a milling machine coordinate table with your own hands, you need to determine the place where it will be located, and also decide what type milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate router with your own hands (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serving as its extension), compact table machine, free-standing stationary equipment.
You can opt for compact benchtop equipment for working with wood and other materials if you access it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. This installation, which is distinguished by its small size, takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.
If the size of your workshop allows, then it is better to adapt the base of a stationary milling machine for the milling machine, which is much more convenient to work with than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be placed on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.
Simple homemade router ny table. There are questions about the overall strength, but it’s cheap and cheerful.
A simple milling table or table for a drilling machine can be made very quickly. To make such a structure, which can easily be placed on a regular desktop, you will need a sheet of chipboard on which the guide elements are fixed. As such a guide, which can be used as a parallel stop for a milling table, it is suitable regular board small thickness, which is attached to the tabletop using bolted connections. If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.
To insert a router into a table, you will need to make a hole in a sheet of chipboard to accommodate it, and it will be fixed to the tabletop using two clamps. After this, the manufacture of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of this design more convenient, you can place simple clamps for a milling machine on the tabletop.
Manufacturing of bed and table top
The bed of a homemade milling installation must be highly stable and reliable, since it will bear the main loads. Structurally, it consists of a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame, frames can be connected by welding metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare drawings of such a device. They must indicate all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.
The lower part of the bed from the front side must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the milling machine operator. If you are going to process linings for doors and the ends of facades for them on your homemade machine, then the dimensions of the frame can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).
One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the ease of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height for equipment used while standing is 850–900 mm. It is advisable to make the lower parts of the frame supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table. For the manufacture of turntable With your own hands it is enough to fix special wheels on its legs.
The assembly of approximately such a table is discussed in option No. 2
You can make a milling table, characterized by a low price and high reliability, from the tabletop of an old kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of chipboard sheets 26 or 36 mm thick, coated with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens vibrations that occur during operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for a machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) boards with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.
Milling table drawings: option No. 2
Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional retractable drawers, which can be made from timber and plywood (or MDF). A list of parts with dimensions and recommended materials of manufacture is presented in the table.
Table of table parts and their sizes Frame Upper corner of the frame bottom corner frame
Guide for sliding drawers Guide layout diagram Table top Stop drawing
Big drawer Small Drawer Front of Small Drawer Table Side Panels
How to make a mounting plate
Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine has enough large thickness, then the mounting plate for attaching the router must have a minimum thickness. This will allow you to make maximum use of the reach cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate minimum thickness must have high strength and rigidity.
The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. Using previously prepared drawings, cut out from such a sheet rectangular piece, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the milling cutter sole.
The connection of the plate with the base of the router and the table itself, as mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the corresponding threaded holes in the base of the router. Holes for fixing the plates to the table surface, which are used as clamps for the milling machine, are made in their four corners.
The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate to the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the tool base. In order not to make a mistake when manufacturing a plate, you must first prepare its drawing, on which you need to indicate dimensions this part, the diameters and location of all holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the table surface using clamp brackets.
Video from a detailed story about building a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most craftsmen, such a table will be unnecessarily complex, but perhaps someone will learn useful ideas when creating your own equipment.
Milling table assembly
A universal milling table or begin to assemble by attaching the table top to the finished frame. The mounting plate is applied to the place on the tabletop where it should be placed according to the drawing, and its outline is traced with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the marked contour, for which a manual milling cutter with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate fits into it at the same level as the surface of the tabletop.
It will not be possible to make a recess with right angles using a round cutter, so the corners on the plate itself must also be rounded using a file. After fixing it in the countertop, it is necessary to do mounting plate hole with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router sole. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the tabletop itself.
When the requirements for equipment are small and there is no desire to mess with homemade products, you can buy something similar to that, which is shown in the photo below.
PROMA, priced at about 6 thousand rubles, is one of the cheapest factory milling tables
To perform such an operation you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high precision. WITH reverse side table tops, it is also necessary to select a certain amount of material, since a dust collector casing and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the operations described above, you can rely on the drawings or photos posted in this article.
The final stage of assembling a homemade milling table is connecting all of it structural elements. First, the router is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its base is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the upper surface of the tabletop using screws with countersunk heads, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations is the tabletop itself securely fixed to the frame.
Milling table drawings: option No. 3
Compact benchtop router table and detailed analysis its creation in the photo below.
Computer model
Appearance assembled Rear view Front view
The cutter is raised, the sashes are moved apart The cutter is lowered, the sashes are moved Manual frezer Vacuum cleaner hose for removing dust and chips
Attaching the router and removing chips Adjusting the lift of the cutter Lifting the cutter is carried out by rotating the screw Adjusting the lift of the cutter
Setting the extension of the cutter Plexiglas platform before installing the router The glass is precisely adjusted to the tabletop The router is screwed to the support platform
Making the top clamp
Wondering how to do homemade machine safer to use and to ensure the convenience of processing large workpieces on it, it is possible to equip such equipment with an upper clamp. To create this device, made on the basis of a roller, it is also necessary to prepare drawings.
A ball bearing of a suitable size is often used as a roller for the pressing device. Such a roller is mounted on a holding device that allows it to be fixed at any distance from the tabletop. With this simple universal device the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the work table.
In the video below, a man shows his homemade milling table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.
Drive for a homemade milling machine
In order for the homemade wood router you made to be different high performance and functionality, it is necessary to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine to process wood parts with shallow recesses, a 500 W electric motor will be sufficient for it. However, equipment with a low-power drive will often shut down, which will negate any savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.
The optimal choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power varying between 1–2 kW will allow you to use your homemade device like a real one milling machine processing of wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on this machine. To equip the machine drive, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, drilling machines), as well as on hand tools(drills, grinders, hand routers).
Welcome to our page " Multifunctional workshop table - idea Festool table MFT 3 (Festul MFT)"!
In this overview photo and video gallery, Arsenal Masters specialists have made a selection ofoto and video on the topic of variations of the multifunctional table Festool MFT 3: modifications, improvements, adaptations and homemade options.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product. You can print this page yourself and for free.
You have interesting photos, ideas, suggestions? You can send for inclusion in this review (with an explanation and your data as the author) via or email: . You can write your comments in the reviews on this page.
It is not for nothing that the Festool MFT /3 table has gained popularity all over the world among Craftsmen working both in workshops and on the road. MFT - Multi Function Table is a combination of a mobile desktop and a workbench.
Its main advantage: versatility and ease of use.
Its popularity is due to the fact that the manufacturer combined the convenience of joinery solutions (with fastening stops and clamps on the tabletop in mounting holes) with a solution? came from the machine tool industry, where aluminum profiles Almost any equipment can be installed with a T-slot.
You can see the idea and possibilities of use in the video from Festool on the MFT/3 table:
View all purchase options in the catalog with prices
We have divided this collection into topics:
1. Improvements to the Festool MFT3 table and expansion of its capabilities
If the Master lacks the standard capabilities of a product or something seems unfinished, then he begins to improve it at his own discretion. And the main thing here is not to overdo it. But if you approach the matter with all passion, you get a successful solution. We will show you some of these successful solutions.
MFT3 table is initially mobile. Accordingly, its legs are not stable enough for stationary serious work, even with a diagonal crossbeam. But I would like to use its capabilities to the fullest. So the first thing we came up with was to install the MFT table on another more stable desktop. And MFT with legs folded or removed allows this. There are many options, but the essence is the same:
The same one with “adult” wheels:
Base on aluminum profiles:
And compounds:
Video:
The process of making such a table can be seen in the video:
An extended version of the MFT/3 table, assembled using original components. Side extended profiles 2 meters long are custom items that you can order from us.
Additional "body kit":
2. Homemade table options
An interesting implementation of the idea of the MFT 3 table from Nizhny Novgorod master Maxim G. Here, instead of standard round holes V top panel The table tops are cut out into rectangular windows. Clamping the workpiece using these windows is much faster than using holes. A standard machine profile with a T-slot is installed in the side trim board of the tabletop. It ensures work with the same clamps.
The idea of a table with a framed cellular underbench is interesting. Simple and functional. The table can be made using the Kreg miter jig: 
By table with frame cellular underbench:
Another interesting option cellular workbench from mirock's woodshop:
Video: how to make a cellular workbench from mirock's woodshop
Semi-stationary multifunctional table Masters from their native Fatherland. Simple design, available materials- an excellent budget solution:
And a video review of it:
One of the most popular tables in the image and likeness of MFT 3 is the project mobile table Multifunction workbench (MFTC for short) by Timothy Wilmots.
Video of homemade multifunctional table MFTC
Stationary options:
Stationary MFT table options require a good, stable base. Craftsmen use a variety of solutions.
The simplest ones are, of course, the most budget-friendly:
The simplest can also be in the form of a cabinet:
For example, when using even inexpensive materials(plywood, MDF, pine bars and plain wood), you can achieve excellent results. You just need to be careful, fit all the parts well with the help, sand them well and coat them. And here it is, the embodiment of a craftsman’s budget but decent-looking dream of his own multifunctional workbench. 
The following option takes advantage of only the benefits of working with . 
MFT stationary desk made with German thoroughness (below detailed video presentation on it) further revealed the idea of versatility and capabilities of the Festool MFT table:
A few more solutions from European and American craftsmen, which take advantage of all three options for clamping on a workbench: using rail profiles, using a regular vice and using stops installed in holes in the tabletop:
Version on standard machine-made aluminum profiles: it is quickly assembled and, due to standard profiles, has greater versatility in the implementation of your ideas. For greater stability, it is better to install corner inserts.
Another interesting project stationary workbench on casters from Peter Parfitt from England (below is a video on it):
Video:
And the most thorough, in our opinion, development of the idea of the MFT table is the workbench table from Holzwerken.
A thorough and thoughtful solution with interesting ideas:
Video review of this workbench:
3. Homemade devices for the MTF table
Drawers and shelves:
Such a table can be very useful if there is a shortage of storage space and if you do not work with wood every day, but on occasion.
Step 1: Dimensions and Part Identifications
Many parts have only one dimension. This is because the second one is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or, depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this method was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.
You will need:
4x8 sheet of plywood. I used bc. e. and it was designated 18mm.
4 pipes about 32″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25" aluminum plugs from onlinemetals.com. They are a bit pricey with shipping but were needed as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1″ electric pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have available and what drills you have access to. A tight fit will give better results.
8pcs x 2 3/8″ bolt
Wing nut 3/8 8pcs
Washer 3/8 16pcs
Adhesive & Double Stick Tape Carpet
cookies and or drywall screws
3/4 oak dowel 36″ long
Notes:
The blue pieces and one short yellow piece support the pipe. These are shown here, but installed under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.
Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.
The bolts are overkill, but larger sizes are easier to use.
Step 2: Cut the Sequences
The idea here is to have similar parts without moving the saw. Tabletop a circular saw can be used, but it was done with a circular saw and rip fence that came with him.
First cut: Rip 24″ off short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. Using some of the cut is important. Track seen, straight edge, etc.
Second cut: From the other end, use your 24″ piece and subtract 4 thicknesses of plywood. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the feet are placed on inside top of the table and outside the shelf.
Cutting them off either side gives greater precision.
Set these two aside and continue cutting.
The pieces are color coded, and if they have a color or a color dot they have one common dimension. Remember, save on on the right side your line.
Leg Note: The legs should be 3″ x 3″ when finished. This sheet cut has the short side measuring long for the rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1/4, or 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood!
Once all the strips are cut go back to the first 24″ wide piece you made and cut that 37″ long. We cut carefully, with a guide or straight to some edge. Save the cut for later when the short skirt ends and comes out of it.
The next section of the shelf from above is the length. This was done using the second piece. Use the top one you just made as a template and subtract four thicknesses of plywood. Should be about 34″. Save cut off like a short skirt, the ends will be made from this.
Step 3: Drilling Holes, Long Boards
1. Take two long 3-3/4. To get the length, lay them out on top and subtract two thicknesses of plywood. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or Miter saw. Set aside.
2. Cut two short 4-1/2s and the remaining 3-3/4s. This aspect should be 32-3/8″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when everything is assembled. Clamp and cut all three at once.
3. Next, drill the holes required diameter depending on which pipes you choose. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all “bottoms” for later installation. Drill the holes as evenly as possible. For this I used double tape and drilling machine. All the pieces were put on flat surface with the marked link side down. In short, they were in the center and everything fit.
If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3/4 wide ones in one group, remember the center is shorter and make your marks longer. They should be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter ones as a template, drill two 4-1/2 wide holes. I would still recommend using double-sided adhesive tape.
Please also note. If your plywood has a good side/and a bad side that is important to you, flip the boards appropriately. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.
Step 4: Drilling Holes, Short Boards
1. The board is supportive. Cut the remaining 4-1/2 boards to approximately 24″. I did this by cutting the 4-1/2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1/2 and cut all three at once on the miter saw until maximum length Maybe.
2. The pipe supports. Cut long 3-3/4 into two pieces 22-3/8 +/-. They fit under the table so that their actual size is 24″ minus the thickness of the plywood*2.
Similar to long boards, these should be laid and stuck together. Ideally 4-1/2, 4-1/2, 3-3/4, 3-3/4, 4-1/2 with 3-3/4 in the center. Remember the bottom marks. If you need to break that I would do 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 and mark them as A. do everything else and mark them as B. You don't want to have to bend the pipe to get things to fit.
Pay attention to the holes:
My first holes were for 1″ emt conductor. This material was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus expensive aluminum. However, 1.25 aluminum through a 1-1/4 hole drilled with a fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a feather drill and some sanding.
Step 5: Optional Rigor
In my table I have mortised the leg room. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to the stability. It's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, the worse thing is to add a few more bolts!
If you choose this should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, the front of the skirt is added before making holes and making a show of it.
Step 6: Assemble the top
This should go pretty quickly. I used a biscuit jointer. If you do this, be sure to tag the boards and links to correct angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails/screws work as well.
All your pieces had a stamp on the bottom. Make sure it is visible when you collect these pieces.
Step 7: Drill at the top
Two ways to do this.
1. Draw a 2-1/2 line all the way around the top. From this line the centers of the holes are 4-3/4 apart in the short direction and 5-5/16 apart in the long direction. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 is possible. With some fancy geometry you could cut the lines if you really wanted to. 3/4″ fostner bit for best results
2. I built a jig. 9-3/4 x 37 plywood scraps. Draw line 2-1/2 all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5/16. Install the 2-1/2 link on the drill press. Drill one line of the hole and just opposite the two corners.
Place the template on your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, clamp securely. Drill. Then turn it over and line up the two corner holes with the template from the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4-inch dowel into each of the two corner holes. Clamp and drills on line again. Next, I wound the fishing rods, move the template of one line, placing it in the corners.
It worked quite well. The holes looked good, but were not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!
Step 8: Legs
A couple of ways to make legs.
Cut all legs to 32″. It's not critical. If you have other machines you can use in combination with this table I think that the changes that. Cut as many as you can safely at once for greater accuracy. Make sure you don't use more than 3″ wide boards. The ones on the shelf.
We use 3″ strips and either 2-1/4″ or 2-1/2″. According to these plans 2-1/2 since there was a rabbit and a dado. If you want to use other methods, then use 2-1/4″. Or technically 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case 18mm.
Step 9: Assemble the Shelves
We've cut before. It should be about 34″ (37″ minus 4 plywood thicknesses).
We take the remaining 3 long” wide boards. Lay them out on the shelf on top and place two pieces of plywood at the end to shorten the overall length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both at the same time. Should be about 32-1/2″.
Assembling the shelf is simple, just like you did the top one. There is no need for additional holes or spikes.
Additionally:
Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I'm in the center of the shaft at 3″ of the board and about 4″ from the end. I did this much however it would be of more use if several holes are drilled into the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.
Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Holes
This guide drills holes in the top and in the shelf exactly. This is not necessary, but if you have all holes turned off, then your legs will be detected specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.
Directory
The scrap is approximately 3x10. Cut 3″ for the top. Cut the remaining piece in half a short way with a 45 degree cut.
Two lines up at the 45 degree end and tape them together as shown in the picture. Cut off the 90 degree end so they are the same. Drill a 3/8″ hole 1-7/8 from the 45 degree end and 2-1/4 down from the top (measured before sticking the actual jig on the top).
Use a square to make sure everything is 90 degrees. Glue and brad or clamp together.
Use a jig to drill 2 holes in each of the four corners of the top and shelf.
DRILL HOLE LEGS
With the table upside down, position the legs using a temporary clamp. If you decide to go rigor, you don't need clamps. I counted the legs and angles to be safe.
On the outside, use holes drilled in the top to drill through the legs. Run the bolt and washers down to the washer and nut at each corner.
Mark the height on the shelf measuring from the top along the foot. Mark each leg. Remember that you are working upside down and turning the shelf upside down and using it as a tray will effectively lift things up. The plywood surface is about 12″ from the ground to my finished table. Install shelves inside the legs. This should stay with friction, but clamp to make sure the corners stay on line. Through the holes drilled before you drill from the inside shelf through the legs. Add bolts as above. If you wanted adjustable height move the shelves and mark the shelf, drill, repeat.
Eat additional holes. If you want to bolt them you will need another set of bolts and adjust the hole placement. Wing nuts can conflict with each other.
Step 11: Shutters
