Brick kitchen slabs for home.
Based on their design, kitchen stoves are divided into simple and complex. The stoves are of simple design and have neither a hot water box nor an oven. Complex stoves include stoves that have an oven or hot water box, as well as stoves with both at the same time. The firebox of the stove can be located either on the front side or on any side. The size of the slab is influenced by the design, the size of the cast iron flooring (in a cast iron slab) and the dimensions of the stove appliances. As for the drawings of kitchen stoves, they were developed for cast iron stoves and stove appliances certain sizes. And for this stove, you cannot change the dimensions of the stove appliances.
Before you start laying, you need to buy stove appliances in accordance with the specifications. Sometimes stove appliances - hot water boxes, ovens - are produced in a handicraft way. Their dimensions must correspond to the drawings.
Along the eleventh row of brickwork, a frame is made of angle steel. With its help, the slab acquires a finished look, and also protects the upper working plane from destruction.
In the event that the slab does not adjoin to the chimney or heating panel, then the piping is done on all sides, if the slab is adjacent, then on three. It is advisable to lay the frame and cast iron plate on a clay-asbestos mortar. It is necessary that their upper planes are at the same level.
When the binding is done on four sides, there is no need to install any clamps on the frame. When the strapping is carried out on two or three sides, the ends of the frame are placed in the masonry of the shield, and clamps can be placed on the ends.
Kitchen stove of simple design.
The plan size of the stove without oven is 51x89 centimeters, the height with an average five-millimeter seam thickness is 77 centimeters. Heat output with two fireboxes per day is 700 kcal/h. The slab is placed under a cast iron flooring measuring 71x41 centimeters. It can be connected to the chimney or heating panel in several ways: from the side opposite the firebox, and from any side.
The hole for connection to the heating panel or chimney is made in the third row of brickwork (its cross-section is 13x13 centimeters).
The combustion chamber is 26 centimeters wide and 35 centimeters high. Smoke gases wash over a cast iron decking slab. Then they descend downwards through a vertical channel having a cross-section of 13x26 centimeters (half a brick per brick) and fall into the connecting channel.
The cleaning door is installed opposite this channel.
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Stove heating is not going to become obsolete at all. Wood-burning stoves made of brick continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a master stove-maker to build it and buy the necessary materials. The only way to save money is to build a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - procedures presented later in the article. Of course, a beginner cannot build a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench, but you can overcome a heat source of a simple design.
Projects of simple brick stoves
The first thing you should worry about is choosing a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven by many years of practice:
- duct-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch stove;
- hob with oven and tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
- Swedish - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.
Duct stove - Dutch
Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture yourself is quite simple. It is small in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two- or three-story small house or cottage if you build a Dutch oven with a passage through the ceilings. A duct stove successfully burns wood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats rooms, although it cannot be called economical.
Reference. The Dutch oven warms up quickly, and after extinguishing it does not give off heat for long; the duration of combustion from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Its strengths are its ease of construction and low fuel requirements.
The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a country house or a small home in the village, including for use in the summer. A tank installed in the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for the heating system or household needs.
Swedish brick stoves combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, release accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well with wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swedish stove is much more complicated than a hob, plus it requires more bricks and purchased iron fittings.
Swedish oven built between the walls
Drawings and orders of stoves
Stove order - Dutch 
Cross-sectional diagram of a Dutch woman 
The procedure for laying the hob 
Schematic structure of the plate 
Ordering a Swedish oven
Any brick stove transfers heat into the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating it is necessary that the heater, or at least part of it, be located in the heated room. Taking this requirement into account, we will give some tips on choosing a location for a building in a rural house or country house:
- If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to place the stove in the middle, with a slight offset towards the outer wall, where the cold comes from.
- To heat 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling some of the interior partitions.
- Suppose there are 1-2 small rooms adjacent to the hall. There you can install water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a furnace heat exchanger or tank.
- Do not plan to install the heater close to external walls. There is no point in warming them up; some of the heat will simply go outside.
- The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and the hob should go into the living room or bedroom.
Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the ridge of the roof. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.
Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials located closer than 500 mm from the body of the stove must subsequently be protected with sheets of metal. It is advisable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard under them. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden roof elements located next to the chimney.
Procurement of materials and components
The main building material from which a do-it-yourself stove is built is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and must be solid; stones with voids inside are not used in the stove business, except perhaps for the construction of outdoor grills and barbecues.
Advice. The Dutch one is so undemanding in terms of the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it be necessary to refine it, for example, cover it with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.
To assemble a small-sized Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and fittings:
- red burnt brick – minimum 390 pcs.;
- grate size 25 x 25 cm;
- loading door 25 x 21 cm;
- small cleaning and blower doors 14 x 14 cm;
- metal flap 13 x 13 cm.
Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch oven can be laid out to any desired height. The specified number of bricks is enough for construction in a one-story private house.
List of components and building materials for the hob:
- solid ceramic brick – 190 pcs.;
- grate 25 x 5 cm;
- two-burner cast iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with disks;
- fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
- metal tank - boiler with dimensions 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
- oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
- cleaning doors 13 x 14 cm – 2 pcs.;
- chimney valve;
- steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm – 4 m.
To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water yourself - simply weld it from metal 3, or better yet, 4 mm thick. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is necessary to organize constant circulation using a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.
To build a Swedish heating and cooking stove, you will need the same set of materials as for a stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare fireproof (fireclay) bricks for laying the firebox. To install fittings, find soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.
Advice on masonry mortar. Preparing natural clay, which experienced stove makers use to lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are recommended to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for constructing stoves, which are commercially available.
Laying the foundation
Before folding the stove, you need to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so placing it directly on floors, even those covered with cement screed, is unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or building a corner fireplace, you need to make a retreat of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.
If the floors in the house are covered with screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for installing a stove foundation:
- Dismantle the screed section and dig a pit protruding beyond the dimensions of the stove by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsidence soil.
- Pour a sand cushion 100 mm high and compact it. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
- After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt and install formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
- Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay reinforcement mesh there.
After 3 weeks (the time for the concrete mixture to completely harden), place a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After this, you can begin to lay the body of the furnace.
Scheme of the base structure for wooden floors
To properly lay the foundation of a stove under wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (used) up to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or crushed stone and concrete on top. Next is a sheet of metal, felt soaked in clay and a solid first row of stove masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video
If you are planning to build a country house, maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then you usually cannot do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.
In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are suitable for both a small home and a novice stove maker. – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.
To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.
General requirements for brick kilns
The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:
- The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
- In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.
For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.
- The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
- When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of the rooms, but also to their location and the number of external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:
| Room area, m² | Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Furnace surface opening into the room, m² | ||||
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- There is no need to play it safe and choose a massive stove for a small house, since warming it up will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
- Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.
If you plan to save on fuel while receiving high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.
How to choose the right place for the stove?
The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.
- If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of the buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
- In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain against cold currents.
- Placing a firebox close to the front door will eliminate excess debris in living rooms, since you won’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
- The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.
- If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the attic floor beams, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite, or simply sand.
- The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.
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Models of simple-designed small brick ovens
Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.
Oven "Krokha"
The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, if the structure is installed correctly, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be an ideal option, as it can create coziness in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.
This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640x770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for a small room where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.
The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of 18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 2030 mm |
| Oven weight | 1260-1280 kg |
| Firebox depth | 746 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat transfer with a disposable firebox | 1760 W |
| With a three-time fire | 2940 W |
| Hob | Single burner |
The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.
In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.
Up to the level of the stove, the stove has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under the hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.
According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.
Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.
| Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 | 21 | |
| Red brick (without chimney pipe) | 352 | |
| Curly (rounded) red brick | 124 | |
| 350×250 | 1 | |
| Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S) | 210×250 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| 410×340 | 1 | |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 40×40×5×520 | 4 |
Compact stove model - “Baby”
The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.
When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.
If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.
The first heating of the finished stove should be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7–9 days.
After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and carefully.
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If you plan to decorate the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of using the stove.
The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:
- Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
- By embedding a steel pipe into it and connecting it to the main chimney;
- An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.
This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.
The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:
| Oven parameters | Numeric parameter values |
|---|---|
| Width and length at base | 505×760 mm |
| Height of structure to pipe | 725 mm |
| Oven weight | 360÷370 kg |
| Firebox depth | 737 mm |
| Chimney duct cross-section size | 100×100 mm |
| Efficiency | Up to 70-75% |
| Heat dissipation | 1210 W |
| Hob | single burner |
To build the Malyshka stove, you will need the following materials and ready-made elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox | 37 | |
| Red brick | 62 | |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×140 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Single burner cast iron stove | 410×340 | 1 |
| Cast iron grate | 350×200 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| 550×800 | 1 |
Prices for fireclay bricks
fireclay brick
It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.
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Heating stove with a small footprint
This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, there is an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.
It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building the stove into the wall between them.
The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, with the front and rear walls accounting for 210 W, and the side walls accounting for 895 W each.
The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.
The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:
In this case, the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming the entire area of its side walls.
To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:
| Name of materials and components | Size in mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick | 260 | |
| Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department | 130 | |
| Cast iron grate | 250×400 | 1 |
| Cast iron ash door | 140×200 | 1 |
| Cast iron fire door | 200×300 | 1 |
| Cleaning doors | 140×200 | 2 |
| Chimney damper | 130×310 | 2 |
| Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing | 1000×600 | 2 |
| Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.
Prices for chimney valves
chimney valves
This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.
- Roofing felt is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, the boundary of the base can be drawn on the waterproofing material with chalk using a long ruler.
- When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
- As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
- On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
- On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.
Prices for roofing material
roofing felt
- The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and a combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
- Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.
- On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
- On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
- The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.
Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying
General description and required materials
In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. It was chosen for a detailed description because, with its simple design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.
This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.
The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of up to 30 square meters. m.
The presented version of the “Swede” was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating a country house, 4000x7000 mm in size, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.
- Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
- For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
- In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
- In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.
If you decide to use this development, first you should consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.
You may be interested in information about which one is best to use when building fireplaces and stoves.
Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:
| Name of materials and components | Size(mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red solid stove brick (excluding pipe height) | 250×120×60 | 551 |
| Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8 | 250×124×65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140×250 | 1 |
| Fire door | 210×250 | 1 |
| Doors for cleaning chambers | 140×140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450×250×290 | 1 |
| Cast iron two-burner cooking stove | 410×710 | 1 |
| grate | 200×300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130×130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45×45×5×1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×650 | 2 |
| Drying rack | 190×340 | 1 |
| Metal sheet covering drying chambers | 800×905×0.5÷1 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500×700×1.5÷2 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements. | 5mm thick | 1 |
Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"
| Illustration | Description of the work procedure |
|---|---|
 | The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented. |
 | The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams. |
 | On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones. |
 | When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks. |
 | The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base under the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the oven niche and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For the laying of this row and the internal arrangement of the niches, 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks will be required. |
 | For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed. |
 | On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to be formed - the internal lining is made of fire-resistant brick, and the external masonry is made of red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks. |
 | Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks. |
 | On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks. |
 | Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step cut out of fireclay bricks along the entire perimeter of the internal space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45x45x1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and generally strengthen the row. |
 | On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick. |
 | For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks. |
 | After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other. |
 | The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues. |
 | The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks. |
 | After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry. |
 | On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks. |
 | The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown. |
 | The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks. |
 | After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf. |
 | 23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks. |
 | On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks. |
 | On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks. |
 | The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern. |
 | Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers. |
 | A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, into which smoke will flow from all other ducts. The chimney pipe will be built above it. |
 | On the 27th row, continuous brickwork is laid on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks. |
 | The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks. |
 | Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven. |
 | The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar. |
 | The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above. |
The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.
So, building an efficient brick oven quickly and inexpensively is a completely doable task. This publication did not say anything about masonry mortar, but only because this issue is well covered in another article on our portal.
Which mortar is best for laying the furnace?
The question is serious, since not only the strength of the structure being built depends on the quality of the solution; the issues of safe operation of the furnace come first. About which ones and when they are used – in a special publication on our portal.
You may be interested in information about how to build
In conclusion, as a “bonus” - another option for a small heating and cooking stove, well suited for country conditions:
Video: compact multifunctional brick oven for a summer house or small house
Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor
Author of the publication 16.10.2016
At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a home, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.
Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.
Main types of furnaces
Before you start laying a stove yourself, familiarize yourself with the features of existing varieties of such units. The stoves are:
- heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have an extremely simple design and can be installed in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
- heating and cooking. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;
There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in stove or even a full-fledged oven.
Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is an excellent option for a modern private home. Such designs do an excellent job of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.
The diagrams of modern stoves distinguish them not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.
Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove
Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.
If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore, you need to make your own decision in this regard.
Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-frequented room.
The finished brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.
Furnace design features
Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high levels of productivity and efficiency.
The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking stoves are additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.
The firebox is the main part of the stove unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. When determining suitable dimensions, several important factors need to be taken into account, such as:
- type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
- required performance;
- required volume.
To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.
The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.
At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
An important element in the design of a brick kiln is the ash chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.
What mortar should I use for masonry?
The reliability and durability of the finished stove directly depends on the quality of the masonry mortar. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.
There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.
Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.
Main stages and important features of furnace laying
From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for the work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.
The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.
First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from brick. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.
Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.
Third stage. Install a grate over the ash pan chamber.
Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.
Fifth stage. Continue standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.
Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.
Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.
Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in the inner corner of the cooking compartment.
Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave the required number of holes in the solid masonry for the summer passage and lifting channel, as well as the vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.
Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.
Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.
Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.
Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.
Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.
At the end, all you have to do is lay out the entire chimney and, if desired, finish the exterior of the stove. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.
Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And stove designs that have been tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will efficiently heat your home for many years without any problems or complaints.
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams
Today there are many options for heating a dacha: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.
But if it is not possible to implement all this due to the area’s remoteness from civilization, a do-it-yourself brick stove for a summer cottage will be an excellent solution.
Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.
The services of a good stove maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick stove project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the operating principle, features and layout of the stove structure.
A brick stove can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior if it is used correctly. Today there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone stove.
No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove designs and no matter how far home heating technologies have come, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood burns out.
According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:
- heating;
- cooking;
- multifunctional;
- combined.
- combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made or lined with fireclay bricks;
- an ash pit where ashes are collected;
- chimney.
This type of design also includes a fireplace with an open or closed firebox. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room of 15-20 square meters. meters.
Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.
The most popular type of stove is the one-brick design. This allows the walls to be heated to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.
In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and flat, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of the room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.
For cladding such a stove, tiles, decorative plaster, and decorative stone are usually used.
Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner cannot implement this option, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly at 60 0.
Round stoves, which are laid out according to the design of the famous Russian furnace engineer V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace operates on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is covered with sheet metal. Such a stove can heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.
The design of the stove consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).
- A heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.
This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:
- combustion chamber;
- chimney;
- ash pan;
- hob;
- oven.
The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for dachas where there is no other heating option.
In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and prepare a delicious dinner for the whole family.
It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes in this chamber.
By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots in one night.
Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable bench, drying for firewood, an oven, and a water-heating tank.
Construction of a stove for a summer residence and its features
The main elements of any brick stove for a summer residence are:
10 basic rules for laying a country stove
Which brick stove to choose for your dacha?
The choice of stove design determines the size and type of room. Large cottages will require a massive stove structure with thick walls, which will take a long time to heat up, but at the same time be able to maintain the temperature for a long time. Building such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.
But even a beginner can handle a small stove for heating a small dacha if you strictly follow the diagram and do not change the laying rules.
The first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily taken by the Swede, which enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove makers.
This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface and a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.
For the location of such a stove, the place most often chosen is between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.
Today you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob on the Internet, so it won’t be difficult to implement it for your dacha. Many stove makers have added additional options to the standard masonry scheme, so each design is called by the name of its creator: the Buslaev, Kuznetsov stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.
Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky, massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious bench.
This stove is not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place for relaxation. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, and has a beneficial effect on the human body, thanks to which the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.
The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the oven, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and there are no particularly strict requirements for the materials for laying a Russian stove.
A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by the little V.A. Potapova, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. To lay it, you need only 211 bricks, and the dimensions of the stove are only 630 * 510 mm.
Moreover, this little thing contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This type of stove would be an excellent solution for a small garden house or one-room cottage.
In this article, we invite you to study the rules and main points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.
Do-it-yourself stove laying
Step 1. Select a brick and prepare tools
Which brick to choose for laying a small country stove? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (at least M-150). You should not skimp on materials; the further performance properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.
Fireclay brick can be easily recognized by its yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumbs. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.
Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber must be made exclusively of this material.
The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.
But it’s also not worth laying out the entire stove from fireclay bricks; the outer part of the structure does not heat up much, and red ceramic bricks look more attractive.
When choosing bricks for the stove, pay attention to color and shape.
You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters and it doesn’t break, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when falling.
The brand of brick for lining the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1cm 3 .
Do not use sand-lime or hollow bricks. It's not even a matter of the ability to withstand high temperatures - they can handle that. Sand-lime brick does not conduct heat well and a room with such a stove will not be very comfortable.
For masonry mortar you will need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. When frozen, it should not fall off or crumble.
The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not escape quickly.
You can also use ready-made masonry mortar for construction, which is sold in stores. Usually it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.
The consistency of this solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, you need to add more dry mixture. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.
So, to build a furnace, we will need the following materials:
- Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
- Red ceramic brick M150 – 120 pieces.
- Fireclay bricks – 40 pieces.
- Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
- Ruberoid.
- Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
- Plywood or boards for creating formwork.
- Reinforcing mesh for foundation construction.
- Grate.
- Metal stove for one burner (cast iron).
- Ash pan and ash pan (blower) door.
- Cast iron firebox door.
- Chimney duct damper.
- Chimney view.
- Metal chimney cap.
Tools needed to build a furnace.
- Building level.
- Shovel
- Construction marker.
- Goniometer.
- Spatula, rule.
- Master OK.
- Measuring tape (roulette).
- Construction plumb.
Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which has been in the open air for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can handle in “1 go”. The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.
Step 2. Preparing bricks for laying the stove
Before starting to lay the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the bricks in advance and prepare them according to the ordering scheme.
This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners.
Study the diagram carefully and see which pieces of bricks you will need for each row.
If necessary, you can number the brick so that later it is easy to navigate which row to insert it into.
How to properly split a brick? Before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove. This can be done using a hacksaw or file.
To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.
For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, make a groove on all sides of the brick.
Step 3. Choosing a location for the oven
This is a very important stage in laying the stove, which is advisable to carry out at the stage of building a house.
But there are times when the decision to lay a stove arises among home owners already in the process of using the dacha. In this case, determine the place where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.
It is also important to evaluate the distance between the stove and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.
In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.
The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.
- The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
- The chimney must not pass through beams.
- The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
- It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.
An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, unless there is an entrance door opposite the corner, from which cold air will blow out the flame.
Step 4. Construction of the foundation
To build a brick kiln, it is necessary to make a separate foundation. If it is laid during the same cycle as the construction of a house, completing it is not a difficult task.
If you decide to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.
Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape or design of the stove.
That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.
Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out all the bricks “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see difficult moments at the draft stage that you will have to pay special attention to.
Step 5. Laying the stove
Attention! Before laying the stove, place the bricks in a bowl of cold water so that they absorb moisture. This way they will not draw water from the masonry mortar.
Fill this gap with sand. The entire area under the stove will be practically occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy care of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.
We block the ash door with a brick.
Installation of the combustion door
We install the combustion door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord. To make it easier to install, place the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.
- 6th row. Closes the furnace door.
Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.
We lay the base of the firebox, which is made of fireclay bricks.
- From rows 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the diagram.
In this row, two bricks covering the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Row 10 - cover the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. We are preparing a place for installing a hob.
It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately place the slab on a dry surface and number the bricks - this will make it easy for you to later lay the brick on the mortar and avoid making mistakes with the correct recesses for the slab.
We lay an asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).
Step 6. Exit the chimney through the roof
This is a responsible step that should ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.
Follow the SNIP standards when installing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.
Around the place where the pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to insulate it with thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection from cold air blasts and ensure reliable fire safety.
If the stove is being installed in an already residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After installing the pipe, you will need to completely ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.
To waterproof a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of slate and metal plate is done using sealant.
If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to make using steel sandwich pipes. They have a stylish look and are easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than brick and will not create as much pressure on the foundation.
When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.
The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of draft directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.
The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.
We complete the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.
We put a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.
Step 7. Furnace lining
There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer cottage.
The decorative material can be clinker tiles, tiled tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc.
Or you can simply leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought high-quality, beautiful brick.
Keep in mind that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.
Step 8. Lighting the stove
After completely lining the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.
When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test firing of the stove. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, light the firewood.
Premature lighting of a damp stove can cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the firewood, add small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.
- Do not use trash for kindling.
- The firebox door must be closed when lighting.
- Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately turn on high heat.
- Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.
For ease of use of a country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in your home.
As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to build a beautiful and high-quality country stove.
Video: Laying a brick kiln “dry”
Below we provide a detailed master class on laying a brick stove for a summer cottage.
Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence