How to sand a parquet floor with your own hands. Do-it-yourself parquet sanding

Despite the fact that parquet is considered one of the most beautiful and durable types of flooring for interior design, it requires regular maintenance to maintain its quality at the proper level.

In addition to treatment with special parquet care products, which improve the appearance of the floor covering and also protect it from premature destruction, periodic repair work is also necessary. This includes sanding and scraping the parquet surface.

Regardless of quality, over time, parquet boards lose their inherent shine. To prevent an expensive replacement procedure, a procedure such as parquet scraping is most often used.

This type of repair work involves removing the top varnish layer. If necessary, elements that have received serious damage are replaced, after which they are polished and coated with a fresh layer of parquet varnish.

After assessing the quality of the parquet flooring, the need for work is determined.

IMPORTANT! In some situations, even high-quality grinding carried out by specialists will not save you.

These include:

Tools and materials

Sanding parquet with your own hands can be done either exclusively by hand or using a special machine. We are interested in manual processing.

Carrying out grinding manually will require huge costs in terms of time and labor, but the savings will significantly affect the overall budget.

To perform this type of work, you will need various paints and varnishes, sandpaper or a scraper. A scraper is a tool used in construction work to manually scrape parquet flooring, with curved and pointed edges, which allows you to conveniently remove the entire top layer of wood.

Carrying out manual scraping of parquet requires a lot of time, as well as significant expenditure of physical effort. Using a hand scraper, remove the top layer of wood along the grain. After complete completion, the finished surface is treated with fine-grained sandpaper to eliminate unevenness.

Final work

The last stage involves eliminating chips and cracks by using putty, after which the surface is coated with varnish or oil. The varnish is applied in three layers, and after the first application, the surface should be sanded again by hand to eliminate the lint raised by the wood varnish.

Recently, the use of natural building materials has become very fashionable, which makes us take a fresh look at the origins. And what could be more traditional and, of course, natural, thanwooden floor in a house or apartment? Wood can fit perfectly into any interior design, regardless of whether it is in the form of parquet or ordinary boards. Moreover, modern technologies make it possible to paint wood in any color, preserving its original texture.

And whatever the final result, the work always begins with grinding. Only after this can the surface be tinted and covered with a protective layer. In addition, both the new and the restored old floor will have to be sanded.

Unfortunately, when sanding wood, you won’t be able to use the usual means at hand. A special device is required (or better yet several), which is quite expensive. Of course, there is no point in buying this device for home decoration. Then what to do in such a situation?

There are two options:

• rent equipment and carry out all the work yourself;
• resort to the help of specialists who will carry out high-quality grinding, but will require a considerable amount of money for it.

It is quite obvious that the first option is more convenient. But to make sure of this, you need to familiarize yourself with the approximate cost of each option.

To find out how much it will costparquet sanding, you should first study the list of services offered. The fact is that companies involved in repair work always indicate what this or that cost consists of. But let’s not be unfounded, let’s look at everything using an example.

Cost of services of repair organizations.

1. Pre-treatment, sanding and three-layer varnishing - about 650 rubles. per m².
2. Separate grinding with a drum machine – 210 rubles. per m².
3. A similar procedure using surface grinding equipment costs 210 rubles. per m².
4. Separate putty – 90 rub. per m².
5. Separate matting – 90 rub. per m².
6. Additional varnishing – about 90 rubles. for each “unplanned” layer.
7. Applying gel to parquet – 90 rubles. for each layer.

Now let’s determine how much all this work will cost for 20 m². We will assume that the gel was applied in two additional layers, and the varnish in four. It turns out the following:

210x20 + 210x20 + 90x20 + 90x20 + 90x2x20 + 90x4x20 = 4200 + 4200 + 1800 + 1800 + 3600 + 7200 = 10,800 rub.

It turns out that the services of a repair company for grinding will cost approximately 10,800 rubles.

Now let's see how much similar work done by hand will cost.

1. Rent of a grinding machine – approximately 1200-2400 rubles. per day.
2. Renting a portable device – another 720 rubles. per day.
3. Abrasive material “number forty” – 210 rubles. per linear meter.
4. Abrasive material “number one hundred and twenty” – 165 rubles. per linear meter.
5. Putty – 3600 rub. for five liters.
6. Special varnish – 12,000–18,000 rubles. for ten liters. The varnish consumption is usually 100 g. per m².
7. Tinting – 3000 per liter. Approximate consumption is liter per m².
8. Other materials (brushes, roller, etc.) – another 4,800 rubles.

Let's see what happens.

2400 + 720 + 210x2 + 165x2 + 3600 + 12000 + 3000x2 + 4800 = 14,600 rub.

Of course, some materials (such as varnish or putty) will remain in significant quantities after work, and they can be used in the future. However, self-grinding will cost almost 4,000 rubles more than if it was done by specialists.

But if this is not a very strong argument for you and you still intenddo it all yourself, then familiarize yourself with the step-by-step technology for carrying out the work.

What will be required at work

Before renting a machine, you need to take care of all the necessary tools (why would a grinder sit idle for paid hours?). Here is a list of everything you need:

Stage one. Preparation

Before you start sanding, you need to carefully prepare the wooden floor for this. For this:

• all furniture is removed from the room;
• old nails are removed or recessed;
• baseboards are dismantled;
• the strength of fixation of all dies is checked (if reconstruction of the old parquet is planned).

Note! Every modern grinding machine is equipped with a special dust bag. But this does not mean that there will be no dust at all - to prevent it from penetrating into neighboring rooms, you need to cover the doorways with a damp cloth.

Second phase. Surface treatment

First you needfill the sander with sandpaper. For the first pass, the coarsest abrasive is often used (often “number forty”). The first pass must be carried out diagonally, moving in the direction of the “grain” of the parquet.

The device has a special screw with which the pressure of the drum on the floor surface is adjusted. It is very important that the pressure is correctly adjusted before starting work, because if it is not enough, the quality of grinding will deteriorate significantly. If the pressure is too high, the engine will be subjected to greater stress. It is very easy to determine that the engine cannot cope: its speed decreases, the sound of the device changes.

Note! The grinding machine consumes 2.5 kilowatts per hour. Therefore, you need to make sure that the electrical wiring and equipment in the building can withstand this load. Also, do not forget about the starting load that is created by the engine of the device.

As grinding progresses, the sandpaper needs to be changed, visually determining the degree of its wear. The engine of the device can only be turned on/off while driving. The fact is that if you stop a working device, then noticeable marks will remain on the floor covering, which will be extremely difficult to eliminate.

Grinding with coarse abrasive must be continued until the surface is completely leveled and the differences between the dies are leveled out. Each time the machine is moved for a new pass, it must be moved half the width of the drum.

Third stage. Grinding work

After completing the pre-treatment of the parquet, you should proceed directly to sanding it. At this stage, all defects resulting from preparation are eliminated. The surface of the material must be smoothed until the unevenness and roughness disappear completely. As a result, the parquet should be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

To do this, it is necessary to use sandpaper with a smaller grain size, gradually reducing the grain size. If the gaps between the dies were putty, then before starting sanding you should also remove the remaining putty.

Fourth stage. Treatment of hard-to-reach places

Actually, this can hardly be considered a separate step, since it must be carried out in parallel with grinding. To sand the floor in corners, stairs and under heating radiators, it is advisable to use a portable sander, also called a “boot”. Such a device will allow you to treat even the most difficult to reach places.

Another important point: it is recommended to carry out such grinding in stages, that is, the passage through the center of the room is completed → the corners are processed.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding. The final touch

For the last stage you need to use fine-grained sandpaper. It is used to remove minor imperfections remaining after previous surface treatment steps. It is characteristic that pressure drum in this case should be minimal. The sanding machine must be moved in the direction of the “grain” of the parquet.

Note! To check the quality of this work, you just need to run your hand over the material - it should be smooth.

First you need to thoroughly vacuum the surface to ensure even application of the varnish. If you do not do this, then in the future dirt will be visible under the varnish layer.

Varnishing is perhaps the most important stage of sanding parquet, because if you do something wrong, you will have to carry out repeated pre-treatment (and sanding, of course).

The varnish should be applied in at least three layers, taking a four-hour drying break after each application. Waiting longer won't hurt—quite the opposite, in fact. You can apply a primer first. The varnish must be applied with a roller; the procedure should be performed quickly and immediately throughout the entire room (the fact is that the varnish dries very quickly). If hardening occurs unevenly, the entire procedure will have to be repeated again.

After the first layer has dried, the parquet needs to be sanded again to remove any raised lint. To do this, a special device must be used - it is called an angle grinder - and abrasive material “number one hundred” or “number one hundred twenty”. Then the parquet should be vacuumed again, as well as the walls and ceiling - it is likely that some of the dust has become electrified and stuck to them.

After this, the remaining layers of varnish are applied, after which the floor needs to be vacuumed once again.

As a conclusion

If you study all the available information about grinding work and have all the necessary equipment, you can easilysand the parquet yourself. But if, after reading this material, you have any doubts about the advisability of such a step, we once again recommend that you seek help from specialists. After all, there is no better assistant for quality work than many years of experience.

Video – Sanding parquet

Stages of polishing parquet

All stages of parquet sanding are clearly presented in this article. Let's list them briefly:

• initial grinding with a belt (drum) type machine, which allows you to remove the old protective coating;
• grinding with an angle grinder in hard-to-reach places (near walls, in corners, under radiators, etc.);
• basic grinding with a surface grinder using abrasives of various grain sizes;
• parquet putty, which consists of filling the cracks with a specially prepared composition: fine wood dust mixed with the base putty material;
• final grinding, which is performed with a surface grinder;
• in hard-to-reach places, final grinding is carried out using a vibrating apparatus or a manual cycle;
• cleaning the floor surface with a powerful vacuum cleaner;
• initial application of varnish, by agreement with the customer it can be done twice;
• intermediate sanding, necessary to make the surface uniform and eliminate defects, for example, air bubbles formed when the varnish comes into contact with unprotected wood, or raised wood “lint”;
• final varnish coating.

Principles of work of the craftsmen of the Parquet 03 company

A distinctive feature of our company is a responsible attitude to all orders, regardless of their volume. We perform parquet work equally well, including sanding, both in a one-room apartment and in numerous office premises of a reputable company.

The principle of our work is to provide the customer with the highest quality at a reasonable price. How could it be otherwise if we are talking about a company that is considered the best in its field?

In this photo report we will clearly show and explain how sanding, puttying and varnishing of parquet should be carried out.

To remove old varnish or oil, two types of grinding machines are used: SO-206 (Ukraine) or Hummel (Germany). This version uses SO-206

After removing the old protective layer from the parquet along the main “field”, you can begin to remove the remaining varnish or oil along the walls and hard-to-reach places (under radiators, near door jambs, etc.)

To do this, you will need a Flip or Elan angle grinder (Germany), which is capable of processing parquet along walls and built-in furniture as closely as possible. In this case, the Elan machine is used.

For complete sanding of parquet, a Trio surface sander is required. With its help, parquet is sanded with different types of abrasive paper, which makes it more even and smooth. When the parquet is almost ready for varnishing (80% of the work), you can begin to putty it.

To prepare the putty mass, a fine fraction of wood dust is used. As a rule, it is taken from the dust collector of the grinding machine and mixed with a special base composition for putty.

In this case, a solvent-based “base” is used, which, after drying, has excellent strength and resistance to drying out.

When puttying, the master rubs the composition into the parquet with a special wide, spring spatula. With this technique, the putty composition fills wide and thin cracks very deeply.

In order to remove excess putty from the surface of the parquet, you will again need a Trio machine, which will remove it and prepare the parquet for varnishing.

A vibrating machine is used for final preparation of parquet in hard-to-reach places. We use professional Bosch machines.

In special places, the master uses a “tsiklu” - a professional hand tool.

After the parquet floor is ready for application of varnishes, it is necessary to thoroughly clean it of dust using a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Applying the first layer of varnish is a very important stage in the work. Applying varnish in an even, uniform layer is not an easy task.

The difficulty lies in the rapid penetration of the first layer into the wood. If the varnish layer is uneven, sagging, streaks and stains may appear.

Applying a second coat of varnish, preferably within 40-90 minutes after the first.

The second layer of varnish is applied in the same uniform layer as the first. On average, 80-120 grams of varnish are consumed per square meter. It depends on the porosity of the wood and the varnish itself.

After the second layer, a technological break of 10-12 hours is required. It allows the first two layers of varnish to dry well. Now you can start intermediate sanding of the varnish. It can be carried out: manually, with a special mesh; vibrating machine or a special Columbus single-disc grinding machine. Here we use the Columbus machine. The choice depends on the evenness of the floor and the varnish used.

After intermediate sanding of the varnish, the floor surface is again carefully cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. If two-component varnishes are used, then a filter mesh is placed on the neck of the jar with varnish.

The third or any finishing coat of varnish is final and, accordingly, indicative, requiring attentiveness and accuracy.

We have been working towards becoming the best for many years!

Features of parquet sanding

Drum or belt machines are usually used for sanding parquet. However, they do not level, but only “smooth out” unevenness in height between adjacent planks. In addition, such machines unevenly remove soft and hard layers of wood, and besides, drum machines also leave serious “shot” on the floor surface. After applying the varnish, all these shortcomings begin to clearly catch the eye and spoil the mood of the customer.

To avoid unpleasant “surprises”, the specialists of the Parquet03 company use a TRIO three-disc surface grinder and a Flip angle grinder. Thanks to three special discs on which the abrasive is installed, the layers of wood are cut evenly and the floor surface is perfectly flat and smooth. This grinding is also called Euro grinding. For intermediate oil polishing and varnish sanding, we use a Columbus single-disc machine.

You can find out more about parquet sanding and the cost of providing services by calling our managers by phone. Contact us, and we will perform the work entrusted to us with high quality and professionalism.

High-quality wooden parquet is a very durable coating. But even despite gentle operating conditions and careful care, sooner or later its surface ages. The varnish becomes dark or dull, scratches and cracks appear, the parquet becomes darker and, most offensively, unevenly, i.e. spots. And there is no need to talk about the condition of the parquet after long-term use in extreme conditions, such as walking in street shoes, furniture on wheels, heavy cabinets and bedside tables without stands, frequent flooding and much more. The result is deep potholes and furrows from the wheels, peeling or cut varnish in places, and large gaps between the slats. What to do? Change the flooring? Not worth it. Most problems can be resolved by sanding the parquet, updating it by removing the top layer and sanding and varnishing the surface. This type of work is quite complex, very labor-intensive and responsible, but it is quite possible to master it on your own if you have patience. A great help is also the variety of special equipment that greatly simplifies the task.

Before you finally decide that you need parquet sanding and all the work it includes will be sufficient, you need to check the condition of your flooring. There are times when cosmetic repairs to a wooden floor are useless.

It makes no sense to sand parquet if:

• The parquet has dried out so much that the gaps between the planks are 5 mm. The entire covering is a mesh of dried planks.
• The parquet swelled due to getting wet. This problem cannot be solved.
• The most passable place is too worn out. For example, near the threshold of a room in the area where a person passes, there is always a height difference between the parquet planks. So, if there is less than 5 mm left from the top of the worn planks to the connecting tongue, grinding is pointless.
• There are visible deep uneven spots or potholes.
• The wooden floor constantly gets wet from the fumes from below. In this case, it is necessary to completely remove the covering, waterproof the base and only then lay a new one.
• Some of the wood has been worn away by a beetle grinder.
• There is mold or rot in the room.

The problems listed above are associated with various factors: initially incorrect installation, under-dried wood, non-compliance with the technology for laying wooden floors and too harsh operating conditions. In all other cases, it will be quite sufficient to qualitatively remove the top varnished layer of parquet, and the renewed parquet will shine with fresh wood.

Tools and materials for sanding parquet without dust

Parquet sanding can be done either manually or by machine. The latter, although more expensive, is less labor-intensive and faster.

If you don’t have enough finances even to simply rent equipment, then you can scrape the parquet hand scraper. This tool is a metal plate, one edge of which is bent and sharpened to make it convenient to remove the varnish layer, and the rest of the plate is enclosed in a wooden handle. Working with manual cycles is very difficult and difficult, the hand gets tired quickly, and working in a “on all fours” position leads to back pain. However, it can be used to treat the entire surface, even in particularly hard-to-reach places. When sanding parquet using a scraper, a fairly large layer of wood is removed, but there is not a lot of dust, as fine as during machine work.

In addition to manual sanding, you can use sandpaper. It is attached to the sole of the shoe and then the parquet is rubbed with feet. This method can also hardly be called easy.

That is why grinding machines for mechanized performance of such work are becoming increasingly popular.

Equipment and tools

Sanding old parquet consists of several stages, and each of them uses a different type of equipment.

Drum type parquet sanding machine used for deep sanding of any wooden floors. These machines are in demand in the Russian Federation; they are reliable, durable and relatively cheap. The most common grinder of this type is the SO-206 unit, which is produced at the Odessa plant in Ukraine. It is equipped with a convenient 200 mm wide drum and a pump that collects dust generated during the grinding process into a special dust bag. The weak point of the SO-206 parquet sanding machine is the rubber glued to the drum. It can be damaged if the abrasive (sandpaper) is not clamped tightly or the machine runs over a nail or screw protruding from the floor. The total cost of such a grinder is about 1300 - 1700 USD.

Surface grinders There are single-disc and three-disc ones. Used for fine sanding of parquet floors and solid wood floors, for sanding before tinting or tinting, for interlayer sanding when varnishing the surface, as well as during the tinting process or for applying oil. The cost of such a machine is simply fantastic, so they buy it not for personal use, but for high-quality professional work. Surface grinders are in demand not only due to their reliability, but also ease of use, versatility and the ability to carry out almost jewelry work on parquet. The most common is the German Lagler Trio sander, the cost of which is 8500 - 10000 USD.

"Boot" Used for sanding hard-to-reach areas under radiators, in corners and near edges. All machines of this type are unified; abrasive wheels with Velcro with a diameter of 150 mm are used, and they are also equipped with a dust collector. The most common models are SO-401 (Odessa, Ukraine), Lagler Flip and Lagler Elan (Germany).

Sanding machines are expensive; they are purchased only by companies involved in parquet work or renting out equipment. It is the latter service that should be used by those who want to do the work themselves. If you order a polishing service from companies specializing in this, you should know that prices for parquet sanding in different organizations depend on the equipment used. The more expensive and better quality it is, the more expensive the work.

Industrial vacuum cleaner necessary to remove all dust from the surface and crevices of the parquet floor. If this is not done, the opening with varnish will be of poor quality.

In addition to all of the above, you will need scissors for cutting sandpaper, tools and keys to secure the abrasive to the drum.

Consumables

In the process of sanding parquet, you will need materials, the amount of which depends on the area of ​​the room and the complexity of the work.

1. Sandpaper. At different stages of sanding, paper of various grain sizes No. 40, 60, 80, 100 and 120 is used. At least one sample is used for a 20 m2 floor, which is enough to put into the machine. For example, for a drum-type parquet sanding machine, you need paper No. 40 with a length of 2000 mm and a width of 200 mm.

1. putty for sealing cracks (approximately 5 kg). It can be selected to match the wood or prepared independently from the liquid component and wood dust that remains after sanding.
2. Varnish or oil. Consumption of parquet varnish is approximately 5 kg per 10 m2. The most common are Forbo, Resident, LOBA, Flow and others.
3. Rollers And brushes for applying varnish.
4. Rubber spatulas for applying putty.

It is better to purchase consumables with a reserve, since it is impossible to calculate the exact consumption.

Parquet sanding: cost of work and equipment rental

For comparison, let’s consider two options: if you order a grinding service and if you do everything yourself.

If you are wondering how much it costs to polish parquet, then you should immediately pay attention to the list of services provided. Repair organizations always indicate what is included in a particular cost. Let's give an example.

Parquet sanding services:

• Work package 1: sanding with a drum-type machine, puttying and varnishing in 3 layers will cost 10 - 11 USD. per m2.
• Work package 2: sanding with a drum machine, grinding with a surface grinder, filling of cracks and opening with varnish in 3 layers - 12 - 13 USD. per m2.
• Separately, grinding with a drum-type machine - 2.5 - 3.5 c.u. per m2.
• Separate grinding with a “Trio” surface grinder - 2.5 - 3.5 c.u. m2.
• Separately puttying of cracks - 1.25 - 1.5 cu. per m2.
• Separately matting 1.25 - 1.5 USD m2.
• Applying an additional layer of varnish - 1.25 - 1.5 c.u. per layer.
• Floor covering with gel - 1.25 - 1.5 USD per layer.

Let's calculate how much such a list of works will cost for 20 m2: sanding with a drum machine, sanding with a surface grinder, filling cracks, matting, additional 2 layers of gel and 4 layers of varnish. We will calculate at the minimum rate.

2.5x20 + 2.5x20 + 1.25x20 + 1.25x20 + 1.25x2x20 + 1.25x4x20 = 150 + 50+ 100 = 300 USD

In total, parquet polishing services will cost us 300 USD for 20 m2.

Now let's calculate how much it will cost us DIY parquet sanding:

• Rent of a parquet sanding machine - 18 - 20 USD per day.
• Rent of a surface grinder - 37.5 - 40 USD per day.
• Rent a “boot” - 10 - 12 USD per day.
• Sandpaper No. 24, 30, 36, 40 - 3.25 - 3.5 c.u. per linear meter.
• Sandpaper No. 60, 80, 100 - $2.875 per linear meter
• Sandpaper No. 120, 150 - 2.75 USD per linear meter
• Putty for parquet - 60 USD for 5 l.
• Parquet varnish - 150 - 300 USD for 10 l. Consumption 80 - 100 g per m2.
• Toning composition for parquet - 50 USD for 1 l. Consumption 1 l up to 40 m2.
• Consumables (rollers, brushes, etc.) - 60 - 80 USD

We count: 18+38+10+3.25x2+2.87x2+2.75x2+60+150+50+60 = 403 USD.

As you can see, even if you complete the work in one day, i.e. You won’t have to overpay for rent; anyway, taking into account the materials, you will spend more than when ordering polishing services from professionals.

Sanding parquet with your own hands - stages of work

Carrying out work on sanding old parquet is a responsible and time-consuming task; it is better to entrust it to professionals. But if you want to do everything yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists, then you will need exact instructions on what to do. In addition, even if you decide to order grinding from a repair organization, knowing the sequence of work and nuances, you will be able to control the quality of workmanship.

Preparatory work before grinding

The very first task that needs to be completed is to check the quality of the parquet and whether it makes sense to sand it. What criteria were described at the beginning of the article.

Before starting work, all the furniture is removed from the room, the baseboards are removed, and the floor is checked to see if there are any loose strips or not. Quite often, wooden baseboards in old houses are nailed tightly to the floor. To avoid damaging the coating, they can be left. We glue the torn parquet strips back. If it is necessary to repair the parquet - eliminating creaks, dips, etc., we carry out repair work.

We inspect the entire surface of the parquet floor for protruding nails or screws. They must be recessed into the wood by at least 2 - 3 mm so that they do not damage the abrasive. The final touch is to wash and vacuum the floor.

Only after all the preparatory work can you purchase materials and rent equipment. It is most convenient to make a rental early in the morning. Please note that the weight of grinding machines is very large (about 70 kg); for work you will need at least two such heavy machines. Don't forget to stock up on a mask-robe type suit, earplugs or headphones and a respirator. Despite the presence of a dust bag, you cannot do without dust completely. There will be less of it than without it, but it will be small and very dangerous, as it can easily get into the respiratory tract.

Deep scraping of parquet

Before starting work, open all windows and close doors. On the drum parquet sanding machine SO-206 Apply with coarse sandpaper.

No. 16 is used to remove old drying oil or varnish from the floor.

No. 24 - 40 is used to remove paint and the top layer of wood.

No. 60 - universal paper for rough sanding.

Most often, they start with #40 paper. First, we make a pass with the machine diagonally across the room, from one corner to the other. Then we move the machine to the wall and begin passes along the wall and parallel to it. The drum width is 200 mm, so each subsequent pass must be shifted by 100 mm.

Important! The movements of the parquet sander should be along the wood fibers. Only on turns is short-term lateral movement allowed. For artistic parquet, the movements should be circular in a twisting spiral.

At this stage, corners and hard-to-reach places are not touched. It is better to start from the far wall and move towards the most passable area. Dust from the dust container can be poured into a plastic or polyethylene bag.

Important! Raising and lowering the parquet sander must be done while moving so that a depression does not form on the floor.

It is imperative to monitor how hard the drum presses on the floor surface. This can be adjusted with a special screw. If the machine removes too little wood and the engine speed is normal, it is necessary to increase the pressure of the drum on the floor. If, on the contrary, it removes too much, reduce it.

The abrasive should be changed as necessary.

Sanding hard-to-reach areas under radiators, corners and edges

After rough sanding, varnish stains should remain in the recesses, in hard-to-reach places, near pipes and edges. We polish the untreated surface angle grinder (“boot”). We fill the skin with No. 40 or No. 60.

Remove varnish stains in the middle of the room using circular movements, moving from the edges of the stain to the center.

In the corners and near the edges, remove the top layer of wood, moving the machine from the edge of the treated surface to the wall and back, using pendulum movements.

Primary sanding work is carried out until the entire floor surface and its shade are leveled.

Now it starts working surface grinder, a good option is a machine with three TRIO discs. With its help, it is necessary to remove all irregularities, burrs, scratches and potholes that remain after deep sanding.

Sandpaper is put on the discs in the following sequence: first No. 40, then No. 60, 80 and the final one - 100. Using a surface grinder, we pass over the floor surface only 3 - 4 times (each time with a different piece of sandpaper).

Each time we make two passes - in one direction and in the opposite direction. Discs of the same grit change as they wear.

After processing the flat surface, we begin grinding hard-to-reach places with the same angle grinder. It can only hold one disc. First with grit number 40, then 60 and 100. We sand until the surface becomes smooth.

Puttying parquet cracks

Before you putty the cracks in the parquet, you need to vacuum it thoroughly. Despite the dust collector, there will still be wood dust. It needs to be removed.

To putty parquet, you can use ready-made putty to match the color of the wood, or you can mix the liquid component with wood dust that remains after sanding and sanding, and prepare the putty yourself. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions on the package.

The entire floor surface putty the resulting composition. To do this, we use a rubber putty spatula. The solution should be distributed evenly, filling all the cracks, both between the planks and on their surface.

When the putty dries a little, i.e. will not be picked up by hand, but will still be soft, you need to do it quickly imitation of joints. This is done with an awl under a metal ruler. Curved joints can be made with the edge of a ruler, pressing lightly on it. The gelatinization period of the putty depends on its composition. For example, with alkyd and uralkyd materials, hardening begins literally minutes after application, so you will have to hurry.

Finish sanding of parquet

To remove excess putty from the floor surface, it is sanded again using a surface sander with No. 100 sandpaper. This work can only be done after the putty composition has completely dried. When finishing sanding, the drum pressure is reduced, the machine is moved only in the direction of the wood fibers. Finish sanding is carried out until the surface becomes perfectly smooth; this can be checked by running your hand over the floor surface.

Opening parquet with varnish or oil

Before applying varnish to the parquet, it must be thoroughly vacuumed, otherwise the varnish will lie unevenly. And under the varnish layer, accumulations of dust or dirt will be noticeable.

Coating parquet with varnish is the most important task in sanding work. If you do it poorly, you will have to scrape and polish again.

The varnish is applied in 3 - 4 layers, each of them takes about 4 hours to dry, but if you wait longer, it's okay. A primer or tinting composition can be applied under parquet varnish. The varnish is applied with a roller to the entire surface of the floor at once and quickly spreads over it, as it dries very quickly. If it hardens unevenly, you will have to redo everything.

After applying the first layer of varnish and its complete drying, it is necessary to sand the surface again, removing any raised wood fluff. We do this with a surface grinder or angle grinder with sandpaper No. 100 or No. 120. Once again we vacuum the floor, walls and ceiling - suddenly the fine dust becomes electrified and sticks to them.

Now apply the remaining layers of varnish. When the last layer has dried, vacuum the floor surface again.

In conclusion, I would like to note that grinders are very noisy; you can only work during the day, with the permission of your neighbors, when children are not sleeping and always wear headphones. In addition, the power and starting current of such machines are very high. Quite often there are situations when the old wiring is not capable of ensuring full operation of the grinding machine and you have to use a generator or a powerful stabilizer. The heaviness and high vibrations of such machines do not allow fragile women to use them. The limited period of equipment rental may force you to rush and make mistakes. Consider all this, it may be better to turn to specialists.

Sanding parquet: video instructions

Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. Its presence in the house is not a cheap pleasure, but you cannot find a better material for finishing the floor. It will last for decades if it is take proper care.

The maintenance process itself consists of two stages: sanding the parquet and covering it with a protective material, usually varnish. Grinding is not an easy procedure; it is performed mainly by professionals, but you can try and gradually do everything yourself.

Equipment

The main tool for sanding parquet is Sander.

It is presented on the market in several types, differing from each other in the working part:

• drum type. The design uses two drums with abrasive material mounted on them;
• tape It differs from the previous model in that it uses a fairly wide abrasive belt. This provides greater coverage of the grinding area;
• disc or surface grinder. Typically used for sanding hard-to-reach areas (for example, under radiators) and for finishing floors. There are professional three-disc machines;
• vibration This is a subtype of the disk model, but more universal. With its help you can carry out both rough and fine grinding;
• eccentric The most modern type of grinders, working quickly and efficiently due to a special design (displacement of the axis of rotation of the grinding body relative to the axis of the shaft);
• corner This is a subtype of the disk model, which is used for processing hard-to-reach areas.

It should be noted that a grinding machine is expensive equipment. It is better not to purchase it for one-time use. Usually it is rented, fortunately this service is provided in many cities today. In addition to this apparatus, for sanding parquet you will need sandpaper, a vacuum cleaner, brushes and a roller.

Preparing the premises

First of all, the room must be cleared of furniture that is on the floor. Since there will be a lot of dust, it is advisable to cover everything that cannot be removed with film. Then the baseboards are removed. After that, it is necessary to examine the parquet floor itself for the strength of fastening of each block to the floor base. If such defects are found, they need to be repaired.

Usually the die is removed (it can be replaced with a new one if the old one turns out to have large defects), and the base under it is cleaned. And then they are laid on the adhesive composition.

If repair operations have been carried out, then it is necessary to give time for the installed elements to stick well to the floor.

First stage

The grinder is loaded with sanding tape or a disk is mounted. For the first pass, that is, roughing, you will need sandpaper with coarse grain. Typically material number 40 is used.

Note! The first pass is carried out along the wood fibers. This will ensure an even cut of the top layer without difficulty.

An important point is the correct setting of the working part of the machine. Or rather, its degree of pressure against the parquet. To do this you need to use a clamping screw. Here it is important to find the golden mean: if you over-pressed it, you got overheating of the device’s engine and a thick cut of the top layer of the floor covering; if you didn’t press too hard, it would reduce the quality of polishing the parquet.

Periodically you need to stop the machine to check the wear of the abrasive. A stop can only be carried out with a moving device; if the shutdown is carried out on non-moving equipment, then there is a high probability that a depression will appear on the floor where it stopped.

Sanding with coarse sandpaper should be carried out until the floor is completely level. You can move the machine for a new pass by half the width of the sanding drum.

Second phase

Before proceeding to the final sanding of the parquet, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the wooden dies. For this purpose, special acrylic-based putty solutions are used. After they have dried, you can proceed to the final treatment of the floor, which is based on the operations of smoothing out minor flaws remaining after the initial grinding.

To do this, you will have to change the abrasive material on the machine to a finer-grained one. Usually they use number 120 and make the first pass, removing small defects. The surface of the parquet can be brought to maximum smoothness using sandpaper number 150-180. For household use, these are the optimal sizes; there is no point in using smaller ones. In this case, the transition from larger grains to small ones must be carried out smoothly.

Sanding hard-to-reach areas

This operation cannot be considered a separate stage. Sanding hard-to-reach places on the parquet is carried out in the same way as the main surface of the floor. That is, first an abrasive with large grains is used, then they are puttied, and lastly, finishing is done using a fine-grained abrasive material.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of work performed. First, the main surface of the parquet is sanded, then hard-to-reach areas. If it is not possible to grind some areas with machines, then you will have to do everything manually. To do this, use a scraper for the first stage and sandpaper mounted on a grater or other device for final sanding.

Varnishing the floor

The easiest way to check that a parquet floor is one hundred percent ready for varnishing is to run your palm over its surface. If your hand does not feel any flaws and feels the smoothness of the surface, then we can assume that the parquet is ready.

The next operation is dust removal, for which a regular vacuum cleaner is used. It should be noted that all models of modern sanding machines are equipped with bags for collecting dust. But small particles of wood will still find their way out of the gaps and crevices, so that a thin layer of them will eventually settle on the floor. We need to get rid of him.

Now about varnishing the parquet. This stage is not easy, because the varnish is applied in several layers. In this case, it is necessary that each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next one. This may take at least 4-5 hours. But the longer the varnish dries, the better. The stages of coverage are as follows:

• primer treatment;
• after it dries, it is necessary to grind it using a diamond mesh number 220;
• applying two layers of varnish, each of which is also sanded;
• The last layer should dry well. After which it is additionally treated with a special gel, which fixes the varnish.

The process of applying varnish is done with a roller; in hard-to-reach places, a brush is used. There are several requirements for carrying out the varnishing process. Windows and doors in the room must be closed and drafts must not be allowed. The optimal temperature for parquet varnishing is +22…25 ℃.

As for the choice of varnish, the market today offers several types, which are based on different raw materials: acrylic and urethane, linen and wood resins. The most environmentally friendly are water-soluble varnishes. Acid-curing and polyurethane varnishes are more durable.

It should be noted that resin-based varnishes are toxic and take a very long time to dry. The ideal option is water-soluble, but with a caveat: they can only be used in heated rooms.

When there is no point in sanding a parquet floor

There is no point in updating the coating only if it is badly damaged. Factors that make it impossible to sand parquet include:

• flooding of the floor, due to which the wooden dies swelled and warped;
• the parquet flooring has dried out to such a state that gaps larger than 5 mm have formed between them;
• the floor is completely or partially covered with mold or fungi, it has been eaten away by wood-boring beetles;
• large defects in the form of potholes, chips and cracks;
• the parquet was worn out to such a state that the thickness of the tiles became less than 5 mm.

All these defects are the causes of improper or heavy use of the floor covering. Often the reasons are illiterate installation of the material and the use of low-quality parquet, for example from unseasoned wood.

Features of polishing parquet boards

It should be noted right away that to sand a parquet board with your own hands, you must already have some experience in handling sanding machines. The board is covered with decorative wood veneer on top, and it is important not to rub it through. Sanding parquet boards is a gentle type of renovation, since a very thin layer of material is removed.

Note! It is not recommended to sand the parquet board of a floating floor yourself, as this can lead to the locks between the dies coming loose or the drum slipping.

It is also not recommended to process material coated with special protective layers of wear-resistant varnish, patina, or tinting. Sanding will damage the protection and it will be impossible to restore it. A simple, natural-colored board is sanded in the same way as parquet, but even more carefully and with more precise adjustment of the thickness of the removal of the top layer.

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