How to install a door with a large opening. How to install interior doors: a step-by-step guide

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors is done in strict sequence; every moment, even the most insignificant, turns out to be important. If you make a minor mistake, it will result in major problems during the further operation of the building. The main condition for installation is a perfectly level vertical and horizontal position.

Only if these parameters are observed will normal opening and closing of doors be ensured. Step-by-step instructions for installing interior doors will help you get the job done. The first thing you need to pay attention to is the installation of the door frame.

Complete sets of interior structures

Installation of interior doors is carried out after finishing the ceiling and walls. At the installation stage, a subfloor and a finishing coating are required. Installation of skirting boards is carried out after installation of doors. Door components:

Canvas without box and lumber. In this case, everything is purchased separately. Lumber is purchased, strips are cut to the size of the doorway and the corners are filed. If a standard box is used, a cloth of the same size is used. Before purchasing, it is necessary to take all measurements so that you do not have to modify the elements. In this case, installing interior doors with your own hands will be as cost-effective as possible.
Box and canvas. In this case, both elements will fit together, you just need to buy additional lumber, make planks and assemble the structure. It may be necessary to install extensions on interior doors. This point needs to be thought through in advance.
Assembled block. All components have been assembled and adjusted; all that remains is to install the block in the opening, level it and secure it.

If you know how to install an interior door with your own hands, you can purchase any kit. The latter is suitable for beginners, as it is the easiest to install. For more experienced craftsmen, the first one is best, it is also the most economical. Such structures are not subject to additional adjustment.

Door frame sizes

Each country has its own standards; they differ, sometimes significantly. Width of swing doors according to Russian standards:

600 mm;
700 mm;
800 mm;
900 mm.

The same standards are in some European countries (Spain, Italy). The French differ by 1 cm (690, 790, 890 mm). The choice of standard depends on the owner, but it is best to use Russian ones, since they have a clear advantage - a wider choice.

If you happen to buy non-standard doors, it will be difficult to change them later. According to GOST, the width of the opening and the door leaf installed in it depends on the room in which the installation is carried out:

For the kitchen, the height should be 2000 mm, width 700 mm.
In the bathroom, the height is 1900-2000 mm, the width is at least 600 mm.
For residential premises, the opening width is 600-1200 mm, the height is 2000 mm.

But these are standards; in reality, it happens that you need to adapt to a certain building. Sometimes it is better to choose a sliding door. To determine the dimensions of the box and canvas, you will need to measure the opening. After this, the dimensions of the block are selected. The size should be slightly smaller to allow mounting of fasteners and spacers. You need to take these parameters into account before installing the interior door yourself.

At the measurement stage, it is necessary to carefully inspect the walls and, if necessary, carry out repairs and strengthening. In this case, the door frame will be able to stay in the opening much better. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the walls if you plan to install heavy doors. You need to attach the wooden beam to the wall and plaster it, if possible. This approach will allow you to install interior doors in any opening without any difficulties. The thickness of the block should be 5 cm. After such an improvement, installing a door frame with your own hands will be much easier, and the reliability of the structure will increase.

Anyone can install doors from scratch with their own hands if they understand the nuances and parameters of the design. One important parameter of boxes is depth. According to GOST, the standard is 70-80 mm, but if the wall thickness in the house exceeds this figure (and this is in most cases), then you need to cheat. Installation of a door frame without a threshold is carried out flush with one wall, but with the condition that the slopes and opening will not interfere with opening. The remaining part of the wall is plastered and finished like the walls in the room. But it can be done with additions: a plank is mounted to match the canvas and trim. You can learn how to assemble the platbands from the instructions for them.

Assembly of door frames

How to install an interior door correctly? The horizontal strip is the lintel, the vertical ones are the jambs (posts). These are the main elements of door frames. If you bought them separately, you need to put them together. To do this, spread oilcloth, paper, cardboard on the floor, lay out the slats. All elements are connected.

If the box and canvas are purchased assembled, then the dimensions will all match. In most cases, installing an interior door threshold is not required. But you need to double-check so that you don’t have to start all the work again. All elements are laid on the floor of the box, with a canvas between them; the correct installation of interior doors must be done exactly this way.

Ideally, there should be an equal gap around the entire perimeter of the canvas - about 3-4 mm. With such a gap, normal opening and closing of doors will be ensured. Similar requirements apply to double-leaf interior doors.

A separate story is adjusting the height, regardless of whether you are installing doors in an apartment or in a bathhouse. The jambs of the box are 12-15 cm larger than the canvas. For proper installation, the racks rest against the joists. But during construction, such an installation is used extremely rarely, so the door jambs are shortened to the required size. Installation of the interior door frame is carried out using self-tapping screws.

But be sure to make a hole with a thin drill before screwing in the fasteners. If the planks are sawn at 45°, it is necessary to drill holes on the side plank. Then you apply it to a horizontal beam and fix it with self-tapping screws. Similarly, you install the doors in the bathhouse yourself. You just need to pay attention to the material - the wood must withstand high temperatures and humidity.

How can you install an interior door yourself if the edges of the frame are filed at right angles? In this case, all the work is much simpler. But you still need to drill holes, especially if the box is made of MDF. Place the top one on the side beam, align the edges and make two holes.

There is a through hole in the top beam, and an end-to-end hole in the side. After that, connect the planks and you get a box. During construction, the lower bar is used extremely rarely. Make sure that the assembled box exceeds the dimensions of the canvas in length and width by 3-4 mm. Builders prefer a door frame without a threshold, so the racks have to be trimmed a little. When installing interior doors without a threshold, there are small advantages.

Quite often it happens that there are more jambs than necessary. Measure the height of the opening, subtract 2 cm (for filling with polyurethane foam). This value will be the height of the box. Take measurements from all sides, mark the values on the assembled structure and draw a line along which the cut will be made. The excess part is cut off. Installing interior doors with extensions is not much different. The differences are only in small details, which manifest themselves in several points.

Loop selection

Before purchasing accessories, be sure to decide which type you need - left or right. Stand near the opening in which you plan to install (the door should open toward you). This condition is mandatory, try not to confuse the sides. Open it towards yourself and look where the movement is happening - left or right. If to the left, then left loops are needed.

If the hinges are right, then the canvas should open to the right. Try not to mix up the hinges; mark their installation locations. Keep in mind that in some cases it may be necessary to remove the canvas (to remove furniture), so you need to be sure that this procedure will be painless and quick. Installing hinges on a door is a matter that requires special care, since a slight deviation can cost the door being crooked.

When installing wooden doors, you need to mark the outline of the hinges and remove the layer with a sharp knife. Pay attention to the thickness of the loops. To make the cut convenient, you need to make a vertical cut along the contour. If you make only a horizontal one, then the excess sections of wood will be difficult to separate. The cut is made either with a chisel or a special machine. Do the same with the door leaf. But sometimes a chisel cannot be used to shape a cutout beautifully. If the canopy falls on a knot, it is necessary to move it to the side. Installing doors yourself will not cause difficulties, but the work is painstaking. Now we need to consider how the awnings are installed.

Insertion of hinges

Separately, you need to consider how door hinges are installed. The requirements for them are not very serious; it is enough to maintain a distance of 19 cm from the edges. You need to know how to assemble an interior door with your own hands and what tools are required for this.

To install or dismantle hinges, you will need the following set of tools:

Drills with a diameter of 1-4 mm.
Drill and screwdriver.
Cutter.
Awl.

For MDF doors, 2 hinges are enough, as they are lightweight. For heavy ones you need to put 3 loops - an additional one in the middle. All hinges, regardless of type and price, consist of 2 parts. One half of them has a pin. Important condition: install in such a way that this pin points upward. It will be wrong if it turns out to be directed downwards.

It is best to install hinges and door locks directly on the floor, prior to installation. The fittings are fastened after marking and cutting. Place a loop, mark the outline and use a chisel to make indentations. First fasten the fittings on the jamb, then lay the canvas and mark the position of the second part of the hinge on it.

The installation of interior doors in a wooden house is simplified due to the fact that fastening can even be done with nails. All recesses are made with a milling cutter in a matter of minutes, but in the absence of such a tool, chisels can also be used. When closing, the hinges provide a gap of 4 mm. The installation of laminated doors is practically no different from the installation of wooden ones, there are only minor differences.

Final installation of the box

In practice, it turns out that assembling and installing interior doors is a painstaking task. The racks and ceiling are shaped like the letter “U”; install the assembled structure in the opening. Using a level, set the entire structure to zero. Achieve maximum evenness horizontally and vertically. Fix the position of the box using spacers and wedges, and punch the level from time to time. Be sure to ensure that the jambs are parallel to each other; tilting in any direction should be avoided. The ease of using the doors in the future depends on the evenness.

After checking all the installation parameters, fix the box in the opening using self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. The distance between adjacent fasteners should be 0.25-0.3 m. There should be approximately 2-3 fasteners on the ceiling, and 7-8 on the jambs. In the box you need to drill holes with a diameter of 4 mm, since the screws have caps that are usually 1-2 mm larger. If you installed a beam between the frame and the wall, installation is much simpler. Making interior doors in this case is simple, since the fasteners are more reliable.

If the walls are made of shell, brick or block, then installation is more complicated - you need to install dowel-nails. Please note that they should be in the bricks and not in the joints. It is not recommended to place doors at seams. Use a 4 mm drill to make a hole in the posts, leaving a mark on the wall. Once you have finished marking all the holes, dismantle the box and check if they are in the right place. To avoid getting caught in the seams, pay attention to open areas of the masonry and make marks on the planks. Only after you are sure of the accuracy, make holes for the dowel-nails. This is exactly how they install wooden doors with their own hands. The installation of plastic structures is done in the same way, only it is easier to work with them - all elements are adjusted as precisely as possible.

Installing a doorway with your own hands is done in the same order, so the manual can be used for this case as well. Then you place the box and make sure that the holes in it coincide with the dowels. Adjust the position horizontally and vertically, secure with wedges and spacers, and only then fasten the box to the wall. You don't want to pull too hard as you may damage the wood or bend the jamb. Since the canopies were installed in advance, further installation of the canvas will not cause difficulties.

Installing entrance doors yourself will significantly reduce the cost of work.

Foaming gaps

After final fixation, place cardboard between the jamb and the canvas; you need to install it on the foam. Close the door and install spacers and wedges to prevent the frame from bending. Fill the gaps between the wall and the box 1/3 with foam, since the volume increases during the drying process. If there is too much foam, it will bend the slats. It must be left for a day to dry.

After that, remove the spacers, use a sharp knife to cut off the excess foam and proceed to further work - installing the extension or trim on the interior doors. You can apply a layer of putty to the foam and cover it with decorative elements. Installing interior door frames with your own hands will not cause any difficulties even for an inexperienced craftsman who is encountering such a procedure for the first time. Correct installation of doors is the key to long service life of the product.

Application of fasteners and mortise details

Self-tapping screws are sold along with door hinges. It is with their help that the fastening is made. Before screwing them in, you need to make thin holes in the wood. This will prevent the wood from splitting when screwed in. The fittings can be hidden, their installation is a little more complicated - it is necessary to make deeper mounting holes. The hole is best cut using a milling machine. Decide in advance whether you need to install additional interior doors; anyone can do it with their own hands.

When screwing in self-tapping screws, make sure that the hinges do not move to the side; if necessary, align them. If the hinges are inserted correctly, they will be located at the same level. If there is even a slight bulge, you need to deepen the area for the hinge to the required level. Using a ruler, check whether the canopy is seated correctly.

Press the ruler against the loop and evaluate the position. If it protrudes strongly, then there will be too large a gap between the door leaf and the frame. When the doors are installed correctly, normal opening to an angle of 180 ° is ensured. In this case, the maximum load on the hinges should not exceed 50 kg. Next, insert the loop parts by lifting the fabric. This will allow you to determine as accurately as possible the point at which both canopies will fit together.

When choosing canopies, it is best to choose hidden ones. They look much better, and the mounting rules are the same. After installation, be sure to check the smoothness of the move by engaging the latch on the jamb and the locking plate. If necessary, move the latch. This is required if there is extraneous noise when closing the door. The metal tab needs to be adjusted a little and the noise will disappear. In general, installing hinges on interior doors is quite simple; no difficulties should arise. It is enough to act strictly according to the instructions and use the recommendations.

Advantages and disadvantages of sliding interior doors

Installing sliding doors with your own hands is quite simple and does not require significant costs, and the design is much more attractive than conventional swing doors. There are 2 types of interior door designs:

The hinged ones, the installation of which is discussed above, are attached to the box using movable canopies. This is a traditional option, the range of models on the market is very wide, the look is rich, but there is one drawback - they take up a lot of space. Installing plastic doors with your own hands will not take much time, but using them in a small room will be problematic: they require a lot of space when opening.
Sliding ones are much more convenient, since with their help the space of the room is used more efficiently. And installing sliding interior doors with your own hands will not take much time if you carefully study the specifics of the work.

In turn, sliding doors are divided into 2 types:

Sliding doors built into the wall slide into it and are recessed. The design has a mechanism that allows you to move the door parallel to the wall. Rollers are mounted on the canvas, and guides are mounted on the opening or on top of it. Rollers move along the guides, opening the opening for passage.
A good option would be to install an accordion door yourself. Structurally, they are made of plastic or wooden slats. By moving, they fold and clear the opening. But one drawback is that cheap products are extremely inconvenient and impractical. Therefore, if the choice fell on such a design, then it is better to purchase an expensive and high-quality product.

Regardless of the design, all sliding doors have the following advantages:

Non-standard and unusual, very original appearance.
There are no blind areas; they do not interfere with the placement of furniture in the rooms.
Complete safety, as there is no risk of hitting the corner of the door. But you should make sure that children do not stick their fingers between the door and the wall.
A huge plus is that they do not open with drafts.
Installing an interior door threshold is not required in most cases; only if you need to cover the guide at the bottom, a threshold is installed.

But there are also significant disadvantages:

The prices for installing a sliding door from craftsmen are simply exorbitant. But if you do all the work yourself, you can reduce costs. Installing interior sliding doors with your own hands will minimize costs and compare them with the cost of installing swing doors.
Low degree of insulation. You have to install a felt gasket on the end of the door. This is the only way to get rid of foreign odors, sounds, and light from entering the room.
The pencil case into which the door goes is quite difficult to care for. But if you manage, you can use a vacuum cleaner to get the job done. When installing casings that cover holes, this is problematic.
Repairing such a design is quite complicated, so when purchasing, be sure to take several rollers in reserve. The installation implies that elements that are rarely found on sale will be used. Sometimes people who installed such structures begin repairs after a few years and do not find spare parts in stores. We have to redo the mechanism.

Sliding Door Components

The main difference between sliding and swing structures is the mechanism of their functioning (rollers or canopies). Sliding interior doors can be equipped with the following mechanisms:

In-wall, which allow you to remove the door leaf inside the wall. But there is one caveat: the system must be started at the time of erection of the walls, since voids will need to be left in them. In this case, the thickness of the wall will be greater. Due to this, the area of the room will become slightly smaller, but the walls will be freed up.
External ones, which can be installed at any time, do not require rebuilding the walls. In this design, the canvas moves parallel to the wall. A small drawback: you will need to clear a small distance from the walls.

Guides are one of the important structural elements, runners along which the door leaf moves on rollers. They are placed on top, bottom, or on both sides. The sale and installation of such elements is carried out by stores, but it is better to do the installation yourself. Features of location options:

Only the top guides are used - the most common method. It is used only if the weight of the door leaf is light. The advantage is that the risk of breaking the guides is extremely low, and the service life is high.
If only the lower guides are used, there is a high risk of damaging them during operation. It is extremely difficult to achieve smooth movement of a door without an upper support, and constant clogging of the runners will make itself felt.
Combined structures are assembled when using doors of large mass, or to improve the smoothness of movement.

Preparation for installation of sliding doors

Since the most popular type is the external structure, it is worth focusing on it. Do-it-yourself door installation requires the following tools and materials:

Door leaf, trim, frame.
Accessories (rollers, guides, locks, handles).
Beams measuring 50x30 mm for fastening the guides.
Hardware.
Level, tape measure, ruler if necessary.
Drill and screwdriver.
Hacksaw.
Chisels.

If the door weight exceeds 27 kg, 4 rollers must be used. For lighter structures, 2 is enough. To avoid deformation of the wall and damage to the wallpaper by handles and locks, use hidden doors embedded in the canvas.

At the very beginning, you need to decide on the installation location and opening side. If you plan to install 2 doors, consider how convenient it will be to use them. If necessary, the old door is removed and a new frame is installed. In living rooms, the gap should be maintained at about 10 mm. If there is no finished floor, then the laminate, screed, and leveling are taken into account.

Measure the width and height of the sliding door. It is advisable to do this at several points (bottom, middle and top). The height of the door must be measured open and closed.
The timber is being installed. Draw a straight line across the top of the box. From the line to the edge of the box you need to maintain a distance equal to the width of the guide. The beam is attached to this line. One caveat: the middle of the block must be located above the right half of the frame if the door is sliding to the right.
The upper guide profiles are being installed. The runners are fastened to the timber using hardware. Check how the rollers slide on the runners. If necessary, replace the latter, otherwise the functioning of the doors in the house will be accompanied by inconvenience.
Bottom skids can be installed in several ways. You can remove part of the floor covering, but this is for cases when it is necessary to install a structure with lower guides. You can mount the guide directly on the floor, but you will have to use this design with thresholds. But builders actively use the installation of doors without a threshold, although they prevent the guide from collapsing. But much more often they don’t put rollers at the bottom, they only use a packet knife. With its help, the door holds and does not deviate from the direction of movement.

Doors with a threshold are rarely used, without it it is much easier. The reason is the possibility of normal operation; sliding compartment doors will be able to operate without damaging the floor covering. And this allows you to reduce the time required to maintain the structure.

Sliding doors: assembly and care

Rollers are hung at the upper end of the canvas, and holes are made at the lower end, between which a groove is knocked out. It should be 2 mm wide - slightly larger than a knife. The depth is the same as the height of the knife, in the range of 10-18 mm. The part that does not have a groove serves as a limiter. A door inserted into the grooves with a limiter is difficult to remove beyond its limits.

Installing hardware means installing a lock on an interior door; it’s not difficult to do it yourself. It is enough to have a simple tool - screwdrivers, pliers. Afterwards, one of the important points is completed - installing handles on interior doors with your own hands. All work is done carefully so as not to damage the appearance, otherwise the sliding sliding doors will look unattractive. If you have no experience, then it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

The final installation of sliding compartment doors involves getting into the guides. Finally, rubber stops are installed, which will prevent the doors from falling out during operation and will make the stop much softer. This design is much better than butterfly hinges, as it provides greater reliability and convenience.

For beauty, you can use decorative elements - platbands, which are installed on the box and upper runners. You can read the label on how to install them correctly. It is not necessary to cash out, since the mechanism itself is already a decorative element. To care for sliding doors you need to:

Do not allow water to get on the door leaf or sliding door mechanism, especially if all the elements are made of wood.
Carefully monitor the cleanliness of the runners and remove dirt in a timely manner. If debris gets on them, the door will not move or slide properly.
Try not to jerk the compartment door or slam it, there is no need to apply force, as the rollers wear out more, and sometimes it is possible to “fly” beyond the limiter. Getting them into place can be challenging.
Check the quality of the fittings, change the rollers in a timely manner.
Reinstallation of door locks should be done as carefully as possible.

It is clear that installing interior doors from MDF with your own hands or an accordion is a drop in the bucket. It is much more difficult to maintain them in good condition, prevent breakdowns and make timely repairs. In general, they can last no less than simple swing structures. Installing sliding doors with your own hands is a guarantee that your home will have an element of novelty.

Sooner or later you have to change your interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is necessary to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few self-tapping screws - you can do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here too there are peculiarities. About all the subtleties - in photos and videos with detailed instructions.

Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and frame is different. The door leaf is:

From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. They are a wooden frame to which laminated fiberboard is attached. They have low sound insulation, are susceptible to high humidity, and are easily damaged.
From MDF. They cost much more, but the quality characteristics are much higher. They have better sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, are stronger and more durable.
Wood. The most expensive doors. They are made from different types of wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.

Door frames are also made from the same materials. The worst choice is that fiberboard boxes bend even under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is a real pain. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is another material: laminated wood. It is good because it does not need to be processed or painted, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.

Dimensions and equipment

Interior doors are produced in standard sizes, it’s just a pity that standards differ in different countries. For example, in our country, swing doors are made 600 - 900 mm wide with a pitch of 100 mm. In some EU countries the rules are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. In France, others are standard. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and then in increments of 100 mm.

Is the difference really that important? If you want to change only the door leaf without the frame, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it along with the frame. There is a much greater choice of interior doors of the same standard as in our country, while in France there is much less choice.

What width of doors you need depends on where you are going to place them. If we talk about standards, the following values are recommended:

in the living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, height 2 m.

If, when replacing a door, it is decided to make the opening larger/smaller, permission is not required for this, but it is necessary to remain within the limits specified for each room.

How to determine what width of doors to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest place in the opening, measuring it, you can find out how wide the door block you need. This is a door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame should be less than the measured value. For example, you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters of 700 mm. Wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.

The most complete set of interior doors - with frame, extensions and trims

When choosing a door, pay attention to the equipment. There are three types of assembly:

Door leaf. You buy the box separately.
Doors with frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the hinges yourself.
Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Just cut the sidewalls to the height, align them evenly and secure them.

Even though the quality of the door leaf is the same, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you spend on installation is significant.

Step-by-step installation of interior doors

In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in photo or video material.

Step 1: Assembling the Door Frame

If you did not buy an assembled door block, the first thing you will have to do is assemble the door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.

Connection methods

There are at least two options for how to connect these planks to each other:

Regardless of exactly how you plan to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to cut down the pillars and lintels on one side. Then they are placed in a box on the floor, checking the correct connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.

Determining the dimensions

When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are not always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how level the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the posts will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually this is a few millimeters, but this is also enough for the doors to warp.

When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (including cuts). Make a 1 cm gap under the door if you are not planning to put a rug under it. If there is a rug/carpet/carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are necessary for. Please note once again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the cut. Having cut it off, try on the racks in the doorway.

Now you need to saw off the lintel to length and, if necessary, saw on the other side (if the joint is at 45°). The length of the lintel should be such that when folded, the distance between the posts is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum gap is 7 mm, but more is often done. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. To accommodate these changes, clearances are required. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially in damp rooms. For the bathroom, definitely leave a little more, otherwise in high humidity they may have difficulty opening.

So, we have decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:

for hinges - 5-6 mm;
at the top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
bottom - 1-2 cm.

After you have cut all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box on the floor. If you notice any shortcomings in the joint, correct them using sandpaper attached to a block. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.

Assembly

Regardless of the material of the box and the connection method, holes are pre-drilled for the fasteners so that the material does not tear. The diameter of the drill is 1 mm less than the diameter of the screw.

The box is folded and the angles are set to 90°. Holding the stand and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold it. If you are working alone, temporarily secure the correctly aligned box with two cross bars - closer to the top and one at the bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the correct connection.

If connected at an angle of 45°, make three holes on each side. Two on top - a centimeter away from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.

If you connected at 90°, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, pointing the drill straight down.

Step 2: Inserting the hinges

Most often, 2 hinges are installed on interior doors, but 3 are possible. They are placed 200-250 mm away from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a place so that there are no knots. First, attach the hinges to the door leaf. The operating procedure is as follows:

We apply loops to the selected places and outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise using a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and leaves smaller gaps.
If they have it, if not, take a chisel and select a material for the thickness of the loop. There is no need to make any more sampling, just for the thickness of the metal.
A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Having secured the two hinges, place the door leaf in the assembled frame, set the correct gaps: on the side of the hinges - 5-6 mm, 3 mm on the opposite side and on top. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed using wedges. Place it exactly in the horizontal and vertical plane (you can use pads if necessary).

After setting, mark the locations of the mating parts of the loops. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove an already installed hinge and then install it in place. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.

DIY door hanging is described in detail in the video.

Step 3: Installing the Door Frame

The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very responsible task. Before installing an interior door, knock down everything in the opening that could fall off. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with deep penetration primers with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are sealed with plaster; very large protrusions are trimmed off. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this on your own, make it easier on yourself.

The box is displayed without the door leaf. It is oriented strictly vertically. Verticality is checked not only by level, but also by plumb line. The level often gives an error, so it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.

To prevent the box from becoming warped during installation, install temporary spacers on the floor and bevels in the corners which give a high degree of rigidity. In order for the doors to open, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. This is the only way it will open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise there will be problems with opening or closing the door.

How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane as the wall

Once the position is selected, you can secure it. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the racks. In this way, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes so that they are not tilted forward or backward.

Then install the wedges at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. The crossbar is also wedged in the middle. Check whether the elements of the box are bent somewhere, and correct if necessary. You can start fastening.

Step 4: Attaching the Box to the Doorway

There are also two mounting methods: through directly to the wall and with mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not afraid of the fastener caps in the box, you can attach it all the way through. It's reliable.

To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the lock mate. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or mating part. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and lining.

Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also several interesting nuances regarding the placement of the door frame.

If such a quantity of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to match. Or there is also a special molding made of MDF with removable slats. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strip.

The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for plasterboard, but there are also special ones that are thicker, although when installing interior doors, plasterboard ones will suffice.

Step 5: Foaming

After all the gaps are set and the wedges are installed, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. For better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. Then squeeze out the foam, filling no more than 2/3. Too much foam may cause the box to blow inward. So don't overdo it.

To ensure that the doors are not warped by the foam, spacers are installed. But if you don't overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.

Spacers for fixing the frame - when installing the interior door this way, the frame should stand level

After the foam has polymerized (the exact time is indicated on the cylinder), the spacers are removed, the door leaf is hung and the operation of the door is checked. Next comes the finishing work: platbands, and, if necessary, additions.

You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing overly complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.

There are many installation options depending on the approach of the master and the tools at hand. We will look at one of the simplest methods without the use of special equipment, which is available to everyone.

1. Prepare tools and materials

Door leaf and frame.
Platband and additional strips.
Universal butterfly hinges, handle and lock.
Saw, screwdriver and drill bits.
Pencil, awl and knife.
Chisel and hammer.
Level, tape measure and wedges.
Screws, nails, .

2. Remove the old door

If you are installing a new door rather than replacing the old one, proceed to the next step.

Remove the door leaf from the hinges and disassemble the door frame. Clean the opening from any remaining plaster and other debris.

This is necessary so that you don’t have to bother with narrowing or, conversely, widening the opening. Standard door sizes are 2 m high and 60, 70, 80 or 90 cm wide. Double doors are usually combined from two panels. For example, 120 cm is 60 + 60.

Since the leaf is installed in the door frame, and even with gaps for polyurethane foam, the opening should be a little larger. As a rule, 8–10 cm. This includes the thickness of the frame and all necessary clearances.

Measure the width of the opening and choose a canvas 8–10 cm narrower.
Measure the height of the opening from the finished floor and make sure that it is 6–9 cm greater than the height of the door.
Take measurements in several places and take into account the smallest result. For example, if the width of the opening at the bottom is 89 cm, in the middle - 91 cm, and at the top - 90 cm, then the width should be considered equal to 89 cm.

4. Decide on the opening and hanging side

If the canvas is installed flush with the wall in the corridor, then it will open into the passage. If there is a wall in the room, then the door will open there. Think about what is more convenient and take this point into account.

To open to the right, the hinges must be hung on the right side, and to open to the left, on the left. To avoid mistakes, stand opposite and imagine that you are opening it towards yourself. If it has glass, then the matte side should face the corridor, and the glossy side should face the room.

5. Unpack the door

Remove the packaging by hand or carefully open the film with a knife. Cut not on the front surface, but on the back surface, so as not to damage the coating. Leave one of the side cardboards: it will serve as a lining and protect the end of the canvas from scratches during operation.

6. Hang the hinges

If you are installing a door for the first time, it is better to use butterfly hinges. They are universal and suitable for both right-hand and left-hand drives. But the most important thing is that they do not need to be cut into the box, which is very convenient for non-professionals.

Place the door on its edge with the front side facing you, placing a piece of cardboard underneath.
Measure 250 mm from the edge of the canvas and make a mark with a pencil - this will be the center of the loop.
Place the closed loop on the canvas with the side where the holes in the small part are chamfered.
To determine where to screw in the screws, mark the centers with an awl and carefully drill holes with a diameter of 2–2.5 mm.
Screw in one of the screws. It will secure the loop and make marking easier.
Mark all the holes in this way and screw in the screws.
Remember: the small part of the hinge is attached to the door leaf, and the large part is attached to the door frame.
Repeat the same procedure for the second loop.

7. Embed the lock

Turn the canvas over so that the loops are on the floor, and the opposite side, where the lock will stand, is at the top.
Position it correctly - in the center of the door. The square hole for the handle should be at the top, and the beveled part of the latch should be directed towards the closure. If necessary, the tongue can be easily turned over by simply pulling with your fingers.
Measure the length and width of the lock mounting plate, as well as the thickness of the door. Make a mark and place the bar strictly in the center of the canvas.
Turn the lock around and apply it to the door. Mark the center of the location of the mounting holes, drill, and screw in the screws.
Trace the plank along the contour with a pencil and carefully cut the film with a sharp knife to clearly mark the boundaries of the selection for installation and not damage the edge.
Remove the lock and separate the cut film from the canvas with a chisel.
Attach the mechanism to the door, aligning it with the planned location, and mark the width of the body. Measure the thickness of the lock at its widest point and mark it on the canvas.
Draw boundary lines 2 mm from the edges of the groove on both sides.
Using a drill with a diameter of 6–7 mm, make holes along the contour of the hole for the lock mechanism. To use the maximum area, arrange the holes in a checkerboard pattern. Act carefully and do not protrude beyond the boundaries of the markings.
Slowly cut off the drilled wood with a chisel and trim the edges of the groove so that the lock fits freely, but does not dangle.
Use a chisel to remove the wood little by little until the mounting strip is flush with the wood. Check by applying the lock with the back side rather than pushing it into place - otherwise it will be difficult to remove.
Place the lock on the side and use a pencil to mark a square hole for the pen shaft. Make a mark on both sides and remember that this figure should be on top and not below when the door is installed.
Insert a piece of wood inside the groove as a support and use a drill with a diameter of 20 mm on one side and then on the other.
Place the lock in place and secure it with screws, having previously drilled holes for them.

8. Assemble the door frame

Place the side posts of the door frame along the edges of the door to avoid confusion. They should be facing a quarter towards the door hinge. That is, you should see the seals.
Calculate the height of the post for proper trimming. It consists of the size of the leaf (2,000 mm), the gap between the frame and the door (3 mm), the thickness of the frame itself (22–25 mm) and the gap between the leaf and the floor (8–22 mm). The lower threshold is made only in bathrooms; in other cases, a gap is left for carpets and other coverings.
Calculate the width of the door frame crossbar. To do this, add 6 mm to the width of the door leaf, so that you end up with a gap of 3 mm on each side.
Carefully cut all planks to size. It's better to use a miter saw, but you can also use a fine-tooth hacksaw.
Remove the quarters on the side posts to mate with the top rail. To do this, move the seals to the side, make cuts with a saw, and then chop off the interfering pieces with a chisel. Use scraps of the box as a template for greater accuracy.
Trim the rubber seals on the side posts at a 45-degree angle to avoid an unsightly gap after assembly.
Place the frame strips together, align the edges and fasten with screws. Pre-drill holes for screws and screw two into each rack. Use box scraps for precise markings.

9. Hang the panel on the door frame

Place the door frame on the floor and carefully place the panel in it. Place 3mm thick fiberboard pieces around the perimeter to form an equal gap.
Mark the top of each hinge on the frame with a pencil.
Remove the screws from the side post and “open” it up on its hinges. To prevent the canvas from falling, place the cuttings of the box underneath it on top and bottom.
Align the top of the hinge with the mark on the frame and use an awl to mark the centers of the screw holes. Screw in the screws, having previously drilled holes for the fasteners.
Repeat the procedure for the second loop and fasten it.
“Close” the box and reassemble it, attaching it to the top bar with screws.

10. Place the box with the canvas in the opening

Lift the hinged door and insert it into the opening. Align the canvas with the wall using wedges as spacers. You can buy them or cut them yourself. Insert one wedge into small gaps, two into large ones, turning them towards each other. This is necessary for accuracy of adjustment.
Align the post with the hinges first, then the rest. Apply a level and recess or pull out the door to achieve a strictly vertical position. If the wall is blocked, the canvas still needs to be leveled so that it can be easily closed and opened.
Using pieces of fiberboard or other templates, create 3 mm gaps around the perimeter between the leaf and the door frame. Place them opposite each other. This will avoid deformation of the frame while the polyurethane foam hardens.
Place a level on the edge of the door or two pieces of fiberboard and make sure the door is perfectly vertical.
Fill the gaps between the door frame and the wall with foam, starting at the bottom and moving up. Use high-quality foam with a low expansion coefficient so that it does not deform the box as it hardens and increases in volume.
If the gap is large, for example, above the top bar, then fill the space gradually, moving the gun up and down with a snake. Do not fill the foam flush with the wall - it is better to leave a small gap, the composition will fill it after hardening.

11. Check for correct installation

Not earlier than a day later, cut off the protruding polyurethane foam. It is easy to check the hardening: it will become very dense, and from the cut piece it will be clear that the material is homogeneous.
Carefully remove the fiberboard and wedges. Check all gaps - they should be the same. And also the correct installation: when opening, the canvas remains in one position, without moving in different directions.

12. Mount the lock handles and strike plate

Using the supplied hexagon, loosen the locking screws at the bottom of both handles and insert the square rod into them until it stops. Attach the assembled structure to the door. The distance between the handles should be less than the thickness of the blade. If it is larger, shorten the rod slightly with a hacksaw or grinder.
Remove the decorative rosettes from the handles by unscrewing them counterclockwise along the threads. Insert the handles into their places so that the locking screw is at the bottom, and mark the locations for fastening with a pencil. Drill holes and screw in screws. Replace the decorative rosettes.
Close the door and mark the top and bottom of the latch on the frame with a pencil. Measure the distance from the edge of the canvas to the outside of the tongue. Mark this measurement on the frame and draw a line to the latch boundary marks.
Turn the striker over and align it with the center of the tongue mark. Drill holes and screw in screws to secure the strip to the frame. Trace the contours with a pencil and cut the film with a sharp knife, as you did with the lock.
Remove the bar and use a small drill to make holes along the contour of the future groove for the latch, and use a chisel to make a hole. It’s okay if the sample slightly protrudes beyond the boundaries of the marks; after installing the bar, all the gaps will close.
Using a chisel, carefully remove the film along the outer contour of the striker to make it flush with the door frame. Secure the strip in place with screws. Check: if everything is done correctly, the closed door does not hang loose.

They are mounted from the side of the room when the width of the door frame pillars does not allow covering the entire thickness of the opening. Additional strips are inserted into the frame and attached to the wall with foam, and later trims are nailed onto them.

If your frame thickness matches the dimensions of the doorway, proceed immediately to the next step.

Use a chisel to cut off the pieces protruding from the sides of the frame and use a chisel to keep them out of the way. Remove any remaining foam around the perimeter of the door frame.
Measure the width of the opening and cut the top trim to the appropriate size. Attach it to the desired place and, if it protrudes beyond the boundaries of the opening, mark with a pencil and remove the excess part. Insert the trimmed board into the box, level it and secure it with wedges on the sides.
In the same way, measure, cut and fit the side trim strips. Reinstall them and align them.
Apply a continuous strip of foam at the junction of the door frame and the top and sides. At the outer edge of the additional strip, fill the joint with the wall with small strips. Do not fill the entire space with foam, otherwise it will expand and deform the extension.

14. Stuff the trim

Using a sharp knife, cut off the foam protruding beyond the plane of the door frame.
Attach the trim to the frame from the side of the hinges, close to them, and see what kind of gap there is to the inner edge of the box. The same distance must be maintained around the entire perimeter on other trims.
The joints of the top and side trim strips can be made at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. If you don’t have a miter saw at hand and you’re installing a door for the first time, it’s better to go with the second option. It's much simpler.
Install the side strip, pressing it against the hinges, and nail it with nails in increments of 20–25 cm. Do not hammer them in completely and do not forget to first make a hole in the platband with a drill of a smaller diameter than the nail.
Attach the second side strip and, having maintained the required gap, make a mark with a pencil and cut off the excess to the desired length. Nail the platband with nails as before.
Try on the top bar, cut it to size and fasten it. Important! It should not lie on the sides, but be between them. In this case, the cut end of the upper casing will be hidden.
Using the same principle, fill the trim on the other side of the door. If additional strips are installed, then align the edges of the platbands with them. If there are no additions, maintain the same gap around the perimeter of the door frame as on the opposite side.

In this article, we will step by step understand how to do it correctly. Today, not every person is able to independently install interior and entrance doors into doorways, or at least do it correctly. Turning to specialists will take up quite a bit of money if you need to install, say, 10 doors in your new house or apartment. To save extra money, I advise everyone to read this step-by-step instructions. Special attention: we will talk about wooden doors for internal use. Installing doors yourself from scratch consists of 10 steps.

Step 1.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

We start by unpacking the purchased set of interior or entrance doors and the door frame from it. This should be done extremely carefully, since often at this stage the door receives the first injuries. When opening the package with a knife, sometimes the surface of the door itself is touched, and if the above-mentioned door has a varnish or laminated coating, the defect is very noticeable and is not easy to eliminate. Special attention: Initially, I advise you to unpack only the door frame. It is better to unpack the door itself before direct use, so as not to spoil its appearance even before use.

Step 2.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

The unpacked door frame should be assembled. In the unpacked kit you will find three main components and one additional one. An additional connecting wooden strip is provided for temporary fixation.

At the ends of the door frame panels there are plastic inserts hammered into special grooves.

These inserts must be knocked out, but this should be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the surface of the door frame. To do this, it is best to use a wooden peg rather than hitting the insert directly with a hammer.

Step 3.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

The parts are assembled into a U-shaped groove into a groove. At this stage it is important to maintain the correct geometry. Unevenness is not allowed here! The connected elements are secured with previously knocked out plastic inserts described in step 2. They are driven into the formed holes when connecting the door frame. This work is done using an ordinary hammer. The plank should be finished using a peg, as before, so as not to spoil the wooden surface.

If the elements of the box have shifted when hammering in the insert, they can be aligned with the same hammer. The body should be hit on the wooden plank attached to it.

The final result at this stage should be the same as in the photo.

Step 4.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

At all subsequent stages we will need a special power tool, which includes:

screwdriver;
drill;
milling head.

Having completed all the steps described in step 3 and thus connecting the top of the door frame, we can move on to its bottom part. The same additional element of the kit is used for this - a fixing wooden strip.

Having measured the width along the bottom of the box, we fix it with a wooden plank. We fasten it with screws in places that will subsequently be sealed with mortar into the wall. In this case, you should start screwing in the screw not from the very edge of the plank, since at the fastening point you will only split the plank. We screw it in at an angle approximately as shown in the photo.

See the photo below for the final result of step 4.

Step 5.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

At this point you should measure the height of your doorway. It is necessary to take into account the height of the threshold or its absence. Having decided on the desired parameters, we cut off the bottom of the door frame. This is best done using a miter saw.

Step 6.

We insert the door into the door frame prepared for installation for fitting. Let me remind you that even at this stage it is not necessary to unpack it completely. It is enough to cut only the holes for the handles and the lock. How they are installed will be discussed later. If everything is fine, you can safely proceed to installing the door frame in the doorway.

Step 7

At this stage we proceed directly. To do this, we need to position the door frame perfectly level in the opening. This can be done using a level. After this, we screw the box to the opening. In our particular case, you can use ordinary wood screws, since wooden blocks are laid in the opening made of plasterboard sheets. In other cases, you will have to use a dowel-nail, etc. materials.

The fasteners are screwed in at an angle in those places that will subsequently be hidden under the mounting foam and trim. Under no circumstances should you fasten your frame all the way through the front. This will greatly spoil the appearance and may also cause the door to not function properly, for example making it difficult to open or close.

The gap between the door frame and the opening is foamed with polyurethane foam. Afterwards, a slope is constructed in this place using dry construction finishing mixtures.

Step 8

While the mounting foam we used to seal the gap between the frame and the wall in the opening hardens, we will begin preparing the door leaf. We'll put a lock in it and install handles and hinges.

Using a measuring tool, we mark the location of the door lock at the end of the door. Based on the shape of the lock, we outline a contour along which it will be necessary to remove a layer of wood so that the front part of our lock is flush with the surface of the door leaf. A router saw should be used to remove wood.

In the photo below, there is a lock used in our particular case, as well as a cut layer of wood necessary for the correct installation of the above-mentioned lock.

The working part of the lock requires a deeper hole, which is best made with a drill with a drill of a suitable diameter.

The work on installing the lock does not end there, since it is necessary to make more holes for the handles on both sides of the door being installed. This is done with the same drill and drill bit. As I already said, it is important in both cases to take into account the required drill diameter.

At the same stage we install the door handles. We put the core into the hole in the canvas in which the lock is installed. We put handles on it on both sides. Next, tighten all the necessary fasteners and clamps. In the described case, three screws and a bolt, which is screwed in with a hexagon, act as clamps and fasteners.

The final step in this step is to install the hinges. In the designated places, by analogy with installing a lock, loops are attached at the ends. As with the lock, a layer of wood is removed with a router saw so that the attached surface of the hinge is flush with the door leaf.

Step 9

Having prepared the door, we return to the box. As on the door itself, on the frame we mark the places for screwing the hinges with a measuring tool. Just as in previous similar cases, it is necessary to use a milling saw.

Next, we mark the place where it should fit into the door frame body. In this place, using a chisel, we make a hole of the required depth and attach the plug, which comes complete with hinges, a lock and handles.

Step 10

We hang the door leaf on the hinges screwed to the door frame and, admiring the result, we can deservedly praise ourselves.
The end result is shown in the photo below.

It is better to unpack the door itself just before you start using it.

Generalization: At each stage where wood was sawed, drilled or cut, its exposed areas must be covered with plain paint. This will improve the appearance and also preserve and protect the surface of the wood. Do-it-yourself door installation is real. It also adds to your experience in the repair industry.

I hope this article helped you gain the necessary knowledge and the right level of confidence to begin installing doors yourself. Good luck to you in all your endeavors.

Step-by-step video on how to install doors yourself

The instructions for installing interior doors allow you to install such structures yourself without much difficulty. You just need to strictly follow its points.

We thank our partners for their help in creating this article: the factory for the production of interior doors Porta Prima - www.portaprima.ru

Door structures between rooms in an apartment or private house cannot be called very complex technical systems. However, their assembly and installation require knowledge of a number of nuances. Firstly, a door installed by yourself should not open spontaneously. Secondly, it must close without excessive effort. Thirdly, door structures must have a certain strength and not fall apart in cases where they are installed in the homes of “lovers” of slamming doors.

Do-it-yourself installation of different types is carried out in several stages:

Assembly of the load-bearing structural element - the box.
Installation of the canvas, and then the box beam (a handle, hinges and other fittings are attached to it).
Aligning the frame in the door and securing it securely.
Hanging the canvas.
Finishing doors with platbands.

Types of interior doors

A regular door block consists of two elements – the leaf and the frame. The latter is made of loop and false beams, as well as a lintel. If you install doors with a threshold, the frame is supplemented with a special bottom bar. In most cases, the door leaf is hung on two hinges. There are systems with three loops, but they are used extremely rarely. The set of door blocks, as a rule, includes platbands. If the manufacturer does not provide these, you will need to purchase them separately.

In situations where the door frame is smaller in width than the door opening, you need to purchase additional panels or trim the walls with strips or more elegant slopes from a design point of view. Here you need to know that professionals do not recommend plastering slopes if you are installing structures made from wood materials (for example, MDF) with your own hands. Such doors simply become deformed after applying the plaster composition to them.

An excessively wide opening is often reduced with the help of wooden beams. Its dimensions must correspond to the “extra” width. Such a beam is installed on the side of the door post, where its hinges are located. The beam is attached to the rack with small cross-section universal screws, and it is connected to the wall with anchors. It is recommended to do the installation of interior structures with your own hands after the pre-finishing of the room (it is assumed that you have leveled the walls, carefully and carefully puttyed them, and then plastered them).

Reducing a doorway using a wooden beam

In other words, the assembly and installation of doors is carried out after completion of all “wet” finishing work without exception.

Otherwise, there is a high probability that the system may “float” due to high humidity. You definitely need to arrange the subfloor, as well as decide on the thickness and type of finishing floor that you will make. Without this, you will not be able to accurately mount the door frame to the height of the threshold. If you simply decide to change the interior doors in a room where no repair work is being carried out, the latest recommendations do not matter.

It is very important to install the racks correctly. The door frame is attached to them. If you install it on crooked racks, the operational functionality of such a door will be minimal. The racks are prepared as follows:

The upper parts of the racks must be cut using a hacksaw (it is better to take a saw with small teeth) and a miter box. This operation is easier to do if you have a miter saw.
Measure the required length along the inside of the post (it consists of the bottom gap, the height of the door leaf and the top gap). The bottom gap is usually taken to be about 1 cm, the top - no more than 0.4 cm. Prepare the second rack in the same way.
Now you start processing the lintel. Measure the desired length along the inside. The required length will include the width of the door leaf, a small (about 0.4 cm) gap on the side where you will put the lock on the door, and another gap on the hinge side. You get the length (internal) of the lintel. Note - absolutely accurate.

Installation of interior door posts

Now you can saw off the ends of the lintel with your own hands (again, with a miter saw or miter box). This procedure is done at an angle of 45°. Next we'll work on the door hinges. Their installation should be done as carefully as possible. It is important to determine the exact depth of their depth and the distance between the lower and upper edges of the door leaf. The scheme of work is as follows:

We measure a distance of 20 cm on the stand (along the inside) from the top edge.
Apply the loop to the selected area, outline its outline (use a regular pencil).
When folded, the loop leaves 0.4 cm of free space (gap) from the stand to the canvas. We calculate the installation depth of the fitting element, taking into account its thickness.
Using a chisel (or better yet, a router) we make the area for the loop.
Similarly, we determine the dimensions and installation location of the lower loop. But in this case, you need to add the value of the lower gap (1 cm) to 20 cm.
Having installed the hinges on the stand, we apply this structure to the canvas and make marks about the areas where the hinges are located.
All that remains is to make seats for the loop elements.

You have completed a difficult task on your own. Now you can work on the box and trim. More on this later.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly and installation

Installing the box yourself will be quite simple if you adhere to the following order of work. You need:

Attach (strictly perpendicular) to the ceiling using a stand. If you are installing an interior product made of MDF, in order to avoid cracking, you first need to make holes with a drill and only then install the screws. Important! The holes are made with a smaller cross-section than the diameter of the hardware used.
Place the box in the opening, and then securely fix it using spacers and wedges.
Take a building level and level it along the horizontal and vertical planes of the structure. After that, feel free to use self-tapping screws.
Hang the door on its hinges. It can be inconvenient to perform this procedure on your own, so call an assistant. After hanging, check the quality of installation, eliminate any installation defects, if any.
Close the interior door, install spacers of suitable sizes between the posts and the door leaf. They will protect the box from being squeezed out when blowing out the foam.

The last step is foaming the gap between the wall and the door frame. Once the foam has hardened, the spacers will need to be removed. All you have to do is install the trim yourself. Everything is simple here - you cut a 45° angle and mount the elements in their place. It is recommended to fasten the installed platbands: with self-tapping screws; special nails (they are called finishing nails); on glue.

It is advisable to cover the tops of the screws with decorative plastic plugs. And the heads of the nails are usually rubbed down. Congratulations, you have installed interior doors yourself, saving a lot of money on the services of specialists!