The jigsaw is a famous tool manual type, designed for cutting patterns on various surfaces. In terms of its importance, it is as important as a drill or hammer drill.
A jigsaw is used for sawing various types of materials (wood, metal, etc.).
They can make straight and curved openings in wood of any species and other non-natural materials, precise cuts geometric shapes with a complex trajectory. The tips and recommendations listed here will help you figure out how to cut a circle with a jigsaw.
Properties of metalworking tools
The jigsaw is intended for household and professional needs. Devices of the first type are characterized by low power and are designed for work in small volumes. The purpose of using special equipment is the professional orientation of the tool, its productivity and a long period of work.
Usually Appliances have standard set functions:
- frequency of moves;
- method of fixing a sheet for cutting;
- pendulum type movement;
- turning the saw.
A jigsaw is used for finishing surfaces, cutting out uneven edges, internal holes, and making furniture. The processed material is securely fixed to the base. Marks are made on it in advance, then the holes are sawed. Rotational vibrations of the shaft are converted into translational movements. The saw is fixed on the rod, its quality determines the life of the product. When choosing a device, preference should be given to round shapes and thickened stems.
The jigsaw is distinguished by such positive qualities, How:
- Cutting holes in any samples.
- A simple device allows you to quickly replace saws.
- Possibility to make round or rectangular cuts.
- Ease of use.
- Does not require special knowledge or skills.
- Availability significant amount saws with different step limits of action, tooth shapes allow for different kinds work in conditions of one device.
- Reliable fixation of the cut sample allows any distance from the edge of the product.
- Device universal action allows you to cut to any depth.
- During the work, the material is practically not damaged.
Disadvantages:
- The shortened movement of the blade ensures slower operation of the device.
- Possibility of injury.
- Possibility of cord failure.
- Checking the battery charge level.
The jigsaw has a built-in protection system, pneumatics and an electric drive.
The new products being released are equipped with improved functions: reducing the number of vibrations, improving productivity indicators, and equipping the device with convenient functions. Depending on the method of fixing the cutting part, saws are:
- with holes;
- with a cross-shaped element;
- with a smooth base.
A jigsaw can in some way replace a router, hand saw, circular, chain saw, corner grinding machine. The tool is necessary in any household; it allows you to carry out wood carving.
The current supplied to the device from the network gives an impulse to the motor, causing it to move. Together with the gearbox, it transmits the impulse to the gear, which secures the rod. The circular action of the shaft is modified into the movement of the working element of a reciprocating nature, moving up and down. The saws are fixed using screws or clamping mechanisms. Such fasteners help to change the canvas in a short time.
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Rules for working with a jigsaw
To understand how to properly saw a circle in wood, it is important to study the features. This carpentry tool helps to cut out ovals, wavy patterns, figures with uneven outlines, non-standard carved boxes, shelves with end-to-end patterns. To ensure that interaction with a jigsaw is organized and safe, it is important to adhere to the following rules:
In order for work with a jigsaw to proceed quickly and safely, do not forget to fix the product before work.
- To avoid inconvenience, special stands should be prepared during work. A slot is made up to the middle of the support, somewhat reminiscent of a lock hole.
- The stand is fixed with clamps or screws to the workbench.
- At the time of work, you need to sit down, position the file strictly vertically relative to the floor and perpendicular to the surface.
- The workpiece is placed in the middle of the stand, holding it with your left hand; you can saw the plywood with your right hand. The location of the cuts should be in the middle part of the support hole.
- The tool does not tolerate strong pressure: just a small touch and gradual movement up and down, and it will begin to work effectively.
Attributes:
- pencil;
- drill;
- drill;
- jigsaw
Small diameter holes (up to 10-12 mm) in wood and chipboard are most often drilled with ordinary metal drills. They cope with their task quite successfully. But if every millimeter is important for the position of the hole, then you need to use special drills.
When entering wood, a metal drill may deviate slightly to the side, even if a recess is made with an awl at the site of the future hole.
In general, drilling wood can be done even with an ordinary nail or a piece of wire with a flattened end. You only have to resort to special wood drills when you need to drill a hole large diameter, or when increased demands are placed on surface cleanliness and precision. There are several types of such drills:
- spiral (a);
- twisted or single-spiral (it is sometimes also called spiral) (b);
- feather (in);
- annular (crown) (d);
- Forstner cylindrical drill (d).
Wood drills are made from alloy tool and carbon tool steels; metal cannot be processed with them.
Twist drill drill holes of small and medium diameter. It can easily be replaced with a metal drill bit, although the hole will be cleaner if you use a wood twist drill bit.
Single twist drill has an acute cutting edge and a screw shape, which removes chips well. It is used when you need to get an accurate deep hole with a clean surface of the walls.
Feather drill They are usually used when drilling holes with a diameter of 10 to 25 mm, although there are drills with a diameter smaller than 10 and larger than 25 mm. This drill is the simplest in design and the cheapest, so it is reasonable to use it in all cases where the quality of the hole is not required high requirements. To the disadvantages feather drill include poor direction, low diameter accuracy, rough surface of the hole walls, the need to periodically remove chips by stopping drilling and removing the drill from the hole. The advantages are simplicity and low cost.
Crowns used when drilling large diameter holes - up to 100 mm or more. The kits contain one mandrel with a shank and a centering drill and several bits that are inserted into the mandrel.
Forstner drill has a centering point and a sharp scorer. Thanks to the latter, it is distinguished by precise cutting geometry. Typically used for drilling blind holes with exact dimensions in soft wood, chipboard or laminate for the installation of furniture canopies.
Forstner drill bits can be short or long pointed.
A Forstner drill with a long point is more difficult to make blind hole for a hinge in a thin door, as the point can make through hole. But a drill with a short tip is more prone to moving to the side. In addition to differences in the length of the tip, the Forstner drills shown in the photo above differ in their maximum rotation speed. So a drill with a short point has welded knives made of high speed steel and is suitable for working at high speeds, and a drill with a long tip has a maximum rotation speed when working with soft wood equal to 1000 rpm.
There is another device for cutting large holes - this ballerina, designed for cutting large (up to 300 mm) holes in thin pieces of wood, chipboard, fiberboard and other materials.
The ballerina consists of a centering drill and two cutters that are used to cut out a circle. The displacement of the cutters along the guide sets the diameter of the circle being cut. To rotate the ballerina, use a brace or drill with a low speed. You can also rotate it manually.
How to drill wood and chipboard
To prevent the drill from going to the side at the very beginning of drilling, you need to make a small depression in the center of the future hole with an awl. Drilling wood is carried out at low and medium speeds of the drill. The main problem when drilling through holes is chipping at the drill exit. There are two ways to deal with them. First drill a thin hole and drill along it from both sides of the part to the middle with a drill of the final diameter. In this way, it will be possible to avoid chips that occur at the exit. The second method is to firmly press a piece of wood onto the side where the drill comes out, which is removed after drilling.To make the drill perpendicular, jigs are used. The latter are especially convenient for making holes in cylindrical parts.
Drilling chipboard requires special attention due to its fragile structure. The presence of laminated or veneer coating complicates the task. To avoid their peeling, use drills with a sharp edge (in particular, a cylindrical Forstner drill) and a backing plate at the exit. To mark holes, be sure to use an awl.
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Industry furniture production provides a huge number to choose from various furniture for kitchen. Sometimes a dishwasher is offered separately and is installed by the buyer independently. This does not require any special knowledge or skills.
To make a hole correctly, you need the simplest tool. The question of how to cut a countertop for a sink is not very difficult. However, if you don't follow certain requirements During installation, the installed equipment can be damaged.
The sequence and manipulations performed are similar to cutting a hole in chipboard.
To make a hole correctly, you need the simplest tool.
It's better to do it on outdoors, since there will be a lot of dust during the sawing process.
Relative to level work surface The sink can be installed in the following ways.
- Below the table top. This arrangement looks very impressive, but will additionally require the use of a special tool. The sink itself must have a certain form. In this case, it is attached from below using special fasteners. They are usually sold as a set. The open end must be impregnated with a water-repellent agent. At the same time, it must have sufficient thickness.
- On the same level. In this situation, it is very important to correctly make the required recess equal to the thickness of the side. It should be perfect around the entire perimeter of the sink being installed.
- Above tabletop level. For this type of installation you need the simplest tool. Special Effort will not be required for this installation.
You will need to wear protective gloves on your hands, and protect your face with a special transparent mask.
Sometimes a dishwasher is offered separately and is installed by the buyer independently.
The sealant is used to prevent moisture from entering the areas of contact between the sink and the countertop. Water can greatly damage chipboard. For different surfaces its own sealant is intended. When working with artificial stone Only silicone is used. Sealants containing alcohol are more often used for wood and plastic.
If you decide to cut a hole in the countertop for a sink yourself, you will need special tool– “grinder” with a diamond wheel.
Using a sealant not only prevents unwanted water penetration. This also serves as additional strength to the connection.
If the sink is purchased separately and requires installation, it is advisable to entrust this work to professionals.
Required tools:
- electric drill
- electric jigsaw
- wood drill with a diameter of 10 mm.
- set of wrenches
- brush
- adjustable wrench
- rasp
- screwdriver
Before cutting a hole in the countertop for the sink, mark the required hole. To do this, a template is made from cardboard or thick paper. Some manufacturers and manufacturers of sinks include a template with the product itself. If you have chosen the option of installing on a tabletop and the sides are of sufficient width, you can mark without a template. For this, the sink is used as a template. The upper surface is applied to the plane and traced along the contour with a marker or pencil. For ease of installation, it is advisable to remove the tabletop. Having stepped back 0.5 - 1 cm from the drawn line, a working contour is drawn along which the cut is made.
It will look more solid, but it will be more difficult to install a sink into it yourself.
Having marked the cut line, the template is removed and you can begin the process of cutting out the place for washing. A drill is used to drill a place for an electric jigsaw file, approximately 10 mm in diameter. For a quadrangular or triangular sink, holes are made in all corners. If the product has a round or oval shape, one will be enough for the job.
Installing a sink in a countertop made of wood or chipboard is not difficult if you have the required tools and basic handling skills.
The hole and cut are made from the side of the laminate, this will prevent it from chipping. Use a jigsaw to carefully cut out the required hole along the drawn contour. The electric jigsaw must be pressed firmly against the surface. The saw blade should go exactly at a right angle.
The sink is covered with a sealing tape supplied with the product.
The inner part being cut must be supported while doing this work. Or position the tabletop so that when cutting is completed, this part does not fall. If the remaining and removable parts are abruptly separated, the laminated coating may crack. Or a part will break off from the chipboard.
You can use a drill with a special drill - a furniture crown, just immediately take a drill of the required diameter.
If there is no room for such an arrangement, or the tabletop has not been removed, use construction tape. Sawing is done in this case with stops. A 10-15 cm cut is made, which is then taped on both sides.
A drain and, if provided for by the design, a mixer (water tap) are mounted to the bowl.
After the cutting is completed, the sink is first tried on. It should fit freely, but the gap should not be large. If it fits too tightly, you should widen the installation site with a rasp or jigsaw.
Having marked the cut line, the template is removed and you can begin the process of cutting out the place for washing.
Now you should carefully “sand” the inner end to which the sink will adjoin. It's done sandpaper with fine grain. The resulting dust is removed and applied to the contact area using a brush. thin layer sealant.
For ease of installation, it is advisable to remove the tabletop.
Installation of sink and connection of communications
A drain and, if provided for by the design, a mixer (water tap) are mounted to the bowl. All gaskets are installed in the required sequence. Typically, the layout of the gaskets is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the mixer and drain siphon. Threaded connections stretch well wrenches or, if necessary, with an adjustable wrench.
When purchasing kitchen furniture with such a surface, it is advisable to already have ready product, which will only require connection to the water supply and sewerage system.
If the structure on which installation is planned does not have holes for water supply and sewerage, they should be cut out. They are done in the same way as for washing. Drilled with a drill and electric jigsaw an opening of the required size is cut out. You can use a drill with a special drill - a furniture crown, just immediately take a drill of the required diameter.
For this, the sink is used as a template.
The sink is covered with a sealing tape supplied with the product. A small gap is left from the edge, which is subsequently filled with sealant. Fastenings are being installed.
Some manufacturers and manufacturers of sinks include a template with the product itself.
Reapply the sealant to the contact areas and let it dry a little, 2-3 minutes. Place the product in place and tighten the fasteners. Secure the tabletop together with it in its place and connect the water hoses. Connect the drain. Once again, go over the joints with sealant, the excess must be removed.
Before cutting a hole in the countertop for the sink, mark the required hole.
Installing a sink in a structure made of other materials
Installing a sink in a countertop made of wood or chipboard is not difficult if you have the required tools and basic handling skills. A tabletop made of artificial or artificial wood installed in the food preparation area will be more durable. natural stone. It will look more solid, but it will be more difficult to install a sink into it yourself.
The use of sealant not only prevents unwanted water penetration
When purchasing kitchen furniture with such a surface, it is advisable to have a ready-made product that will only require connection to the water supply and sewerage system.
Sealants containing alcohol are more often used for wood and plastic.
If the sink is purchased separately and requires installation, it is advisable to entrust this work to professionals. In a stone processing workshop, craftsmen will perform the required work without damaging the surface. To do this, they have the appropriate skills and have the entire set of necessary tools.
There is a different sealant for different surfaces.
If you decide to cut a hole in the countertop for the sink yourself, you will need a special tool - a grinder with a diamond wheel. Great care is required when working with this tool. You will need to wear protective gloves on your hands, and protect your face with a special transparent mask.
The sealant is used to prevent moisture from entering the areas of contact between the sink and the countertop.
It is better to do this outdoors, as there will be a lot of dust during the sawing process. The sequence and manipulations performed are similar to cutting a hole in chipboard.
The location for the cutout is selected taking into account minimum distance for draining water into the sewer and connecting the water supply.
VIDEO: Installation of a washer video. Embedding the sink into the countertop.
If the holes you make look like bullet holes, like in an action movie, read these tips to avoid disappointment in future work.
1. Choosing the right drill
Regular twist drills are inexpensive. They are considered universal and are designed for drilling wood, metal and plastic. Typically, their tips sharpen the floor at a 118° angle for most applications.
But due to such an obtuse angle, the drill can deviate to the side at the beginning and tear out wood fibers at the exit, so reserve these drills for plastic and metal, as well as for holes with a diameter of less than 3 mm in wood (thin drills have less pronounced drawbacks). For holes with a diameter of 3 to 13 mm, choose drills with a central point designed specifically for wood. The tip of such a drill prevents it from moving to the side at the beginning of drilling, and the side cutting projections (the so-called trimmers) help reduce chipping.
To make holes with a diameter of more than 13 mm, use Forster drills. Like center point drills, they have a guide tip in the middle and cut very cleanly. Forster drills with a serrated cutting rim work much more aggressively, but the result of their work is no worse. When using such drills, you should reduce the feed and securely fix the workpiece with clamps.
2. Support the workpiece from the reverse side
Regardless of the type of drill bit, when metal penetrates wood, the unsupported wood fibers on the back of the workpiece are torn, resulting in chips. Therefore, you should not forget to support the back side of the material with a trim
boards. The backing scrap supports the fibers where the drill exits and prevents a sharp increase in feed at the end. Making holes on drilling machine, simply place the cutting under the workpiece, and when using an electric drill, secure it with clamps. If at the beginning of drilling the fibers around the hole rise or small chips form, stick to the surface masking tape, and then mark the center and start drilling.
3. Drill from both sides
If the location of the hole makes it difficult to install the support trim (for example, when drilling holes for wires in the back wall of a cabinet), the counter drilling method will help, when the hole is made from opposite sides so that there are no chips on the edges.
To make clean holes of different diameters, you need all three types of drills - twist, center point and Forstner.
Make a through hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, which will guide a Forstner drill or a center point drill to the middle of the thickness of the part.
Continue drilling with reverse side, reinserting the tip of the drill into the pilot hole. Two large holes should meet in the middle.
On a note:
Milling without chipping
At the exit of the material the tooth saw blade or cutters often chips - in wood, plywood or chipboard. The most common way to combat this phenomenon is to have the cutting tooth emerge from the material inside the groove. For example, if you move the workpiece as the disk rotates. But it is absolutely impossible to select grooves to their full depth in this way. The energy of the rotating cutter is enough to tear the workpiece out of your hands. After which it will fly with great speed in the direction of rotation. The consequences can be the most unpredictable!
But nevertheless, this principle is used in some machines for cutting laminated chipboards. Only in them the disk, which rotates as the material is fed, makes only a shallow cut. When forming it, the impact of the scoring disk on the part is insignificant, so the work is safe. Following the scoring disk is the main working disk, which rotates, as expected, towards the feed of the part. The disc cuts the material cleanly, without chipping, since it uses an already selected shallow groove (the cutting tooth comes out of the material inside the groove). I use this principle in my work. For those who decide to try my method, I would like to remind you that milling machine installed in a table is a high-risk tool. And when working with it, you must strictly follow safety rules - use protective screens and clamps and not exceed the recommended workpiece feed speed and cutter rotation speed. The table should be free of foreign objects and well lit.
1. If you put slot cutter onto the router and skip the workpiece, there will definitely be chips!
2. So first I attach the plywood trim to the guide milling table so that the cutter protrudes only 2 mm beyond the surface of the lining. And I skip the parts in the direction of rotation of the cutter. This results in a shallow groove without chipping.
3. Then I remove the cover - now the cutter protrudes to the specified depth. And I pass the workpieces, as expected, towards the rotating cutter.
4. There are no chips!
Wherever plasterboard walls are installed, it becomes necessary to make one or more holes in them.
The most common case is the installation of a cylindrical box for a socket or switch, ceiling (and not only) lamps or fuse boxes.
That is why it is important to learn how to make such holes correctly, and not just know.
To ensure that the finished hole is smooth and beautiful, and the process itself does not take a lot of time, you need to prepare necessary tools and know how to use them.
If you plan to make holes in an old one and don't know anything about cable and piping layout, use a metal detector to avoid cutting electrical wiring or anything else important.
Cutting round holes
To create round holes, you can use special hand saws for drywall if the diameter of the hole is large (for example, about 15 cm) or it can be special attachments for a drill (see photo).
Required tools and materials:
- Tape measure or ruler;
- Pencil;
- Compass (for large holes);
- Square;
- Drywall saw or drill with attachment.
Using the Drill Attachment
With this tool you can make a hole in a matter of seconds. You only need to select the desired diameter of the saw (the rest need to be removed from the mount) and accurately determine the location of the center of the future hole.
Note: In construction stores you can purchase attachments for drills with saws from 2.5 to 15 cm.
Before cutting a hole in the drywall, determine its intended location. Accurate measurements in in this case are no less important than the accuracy of the drilling itself. If it's a new sheet of drywall, you'll have an easier time making the hole without damaging the service (as discussed above).
Using a square and a ruler or tape measure, measure the required distance from the bottom edge of the slab to the center of the future hole. Place a dot at this point. This will be the height at which the center of the future hole will be placed.
Place the ruler at the level of the point you marked in the previous step. Now measure the required distance from the side edge of the slab.
Mark the center of the hole with a cross so as not to make mistakes in the designations. Before drilling, make sure you measure everything correctly.
If you plan to make a hole larger than 15cm in diameter using a drywall saw, you should draw a circle required diameter compass.
If you plan to use a drill to drill holes, choose a model with adjustable rotation speed and a special attachment (see photo).
Install average speed rotation on the drill. Start drilling the bits with a drill bit in the place marked with a cross. Hold the drill strictly perpendicular to the surface of the slab and try not to move it to the sides. To do this, use the overhead handle.
As the bit of the attachment sinks into the slab and the saw gets closer to it, increase the rotation speed of the attachment. The saw will make a hole in a sheet of drywall very quickly.
Note: A saw at high speeds creates a lot of dust, so use safety glasses and a respirator during the process. The floor can be covered, for example, with old newspapers.
Please note that the circle you cut will either fall down or remain on the drill bit.
Carefully remove all plaster dust and cardboard crumbs using a broom or vacuum cleaner.
The round hole is ready!
Rectangular holes
If you plan to make a rectangular hole on old wall, use a narrow drywall saw. Don't forget about possible wires behind the wall. On new stoves, it is most convenient to use a jigsaw.
Required tools:
- Construction knife;
- Square;
- Pencil;
- Roulette;
- Narrow hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Drill with drill bit.
A successful final result depends on correct measurements and careful cutting. Using a square and a ruler (tape measure), mark the location of the right and left sides of the rectangle - the distance from the beginning and end of the future hole to one edge of the slab.
Draw the length of each side of the future hole at the required distance from the other edge of the slab.
Note: Measure and check at least twice that the measurements and drawing are correct.
Connect the ends of the drawn lines, creating a rectangle or square.
Now take a drill with a large drill bit and drill 4 holes in the center of each drawn line, in the inner area of the rectangle. This will make it possible to insert a hacksaw or jigsaw blade (see photo).
Note: Make holes in the drywall as close to the rectangle lines as possible. This will make it easier to cut along the drawn line.
Remove crumbs after drilling holes with a broom or vacuum cleaner.
Turn the drywall sheet front side up. Secure it so that it does not move with cutting tool. Insert a jigsaw or narrow hacksaw into one of the holes.
Begin sawing while holding the tool firmly perpendicular to the plane of the slab. Move strictly along the line.
It is almost impossible to make a neat rectangular hole by continuously moving around the perimeter of the rectangle. Therefore, you made four holes with a drill. When you reach the corner of the rectangle, stop sawing and move the blade to the next hole.
Note: There will be a lot of dust during the work - use protective equipment.
Take your time, cut slowly but carefully. You should end up with approximately the same hole as in the photo.