How to install rafters on a hipped roof. Hip roof rafter system

The roof is no less important element houses than the foundation and walls. Its design sets the mood for the entire architectural ensemble, making the building neat and attractive. The hipped roof has gained wide popularity not only because of its high reliability and external attractiveness, but also due to the opportunity to equip additional structures - attic and dormer windows, bay windows, etc. Despite the fact that the installation of such a roof is a little more expensive and more complex than a gable structure , it is still easy to build it with your own hands.

Advantages of hip roofs over gable structures

One of the main tasks that appears at the design stage own home, is the choice of roof type. The presence of many options among gable and hipped structures requires an answer to the question of which roof to give preference to. And although the aesthetics of the structure plays an important role, the criteria of reliability and practicality still come to the fore.

A gable roof is a classic structure that is formed by two opposite slopes and a pair of vertical end parts called gables. The spacious under-roof space allows you to equip an attic, living space or use the attic for domestic purposes.

Classical gable roof easy to recognize by a pair of rectangular slopes that adjoin each other along the central axis of the building, and two triangular pediments at its ends

Structures of this type due to their simplicity and practicality long time remained the most popular in individual construction. At the same time, the dependence of the roof geometry on the size of the building, as well as the complication and rise in cost of the structure when arranging the attic, forced the search for other, more practical and functional options. And they were found in the form of various four pitched roofs, which are based on a pair of triangular and two trapezoidal slopes. The latter are often called hips, and the roof itself is called a hip roof. When erecting a structure of this type, there is no need for gables and it becomes possible to make the building more modern and original.

The slopes of the simplest hip roof define surfaces in the form of two trapezoids and a pair of triangles

There are several advantages of hip roofs over traditional gable structures:

the possibility of installing attic windows directly on the slopes;
increased strength, reliability and stability of the rafter system;
increased resistance to weather factors;
possibility of increasing the area attic space simply reducing the width of the hip base;
more uniform distribution of roof weight;
improved temperature conditions when arranging the attic space.

Don’t be fooled by the many advantages of a more stylish hipped roof - it also has disadvantages. These include a more complex design, a slight reduction in the size of the attic space and wasteful use of roofing material. As for expenses, the budget required for the construction of one and the other roof differs slightly.

The hipped roof is not a know-how in architecture - its design has been known since ancient times

Classification of hip roofs

Differences in the shape of buildings, as well as the requirements for functionality and practicality of the traditional hip roof, have led to many variations. If we do not consider the most exotic of them, then we can distinguish several main types of hipped roofs.

Traditional hip roof, the side slopes of which reach the level of the cornice. To construct its main surfaces, straight rafters are used, and the ribs of the hips form beams extending from the ends of the ridge. The elaborate design and distribution of the weight of the roof over a larger area allows not only to position the overhangs on the same line, but also to increase their reach. Thanks to this, the façade of the building is reliably protected from rain even in strong gusts of wind.

Glazing elements are often built into the slopes of a classic hip roof.
A hip roof can be installed on a house that has a square shape in plan. A feature of this design is the slopes of the same configuration. Their ribs converge at one point, and their hips have the shape of isosceles triangles.

Hip roofs are widely used in modern individual construction
Half-hip roofs got their name because of the shortened hips. Unlike traditional roofing, their length is reduced by 1.5–3 times compared to the size of the main slopes.

The side slopes of half-hip roofs have a shortened length, so they do not reach the eaves line
The Danish half-hip roof has a small gable under the ridge and a short hip on the eaves side. This design allows you to install ventilation and lighting elements directly into the vertical end of the roof, thereby eliminating the need to install skylights.

The Danish project is good because it allows you to easily equip attic spaces
A half-hip Dutch roof has a vertical gable that divides the hip into two short slopes. Rafter system“Dutch”, although it has increased complexity, but allows you to make the attic space more spacious and practical. In addition, this design is excellent for installing vertical glazing in the attic.

A roof built according to a Dutch design is still rare in our area.
A sloping hip roof has several slopes different sizes on one slope. Thanks to their different slopes, it is possible to increase the volume of the under-roof space. Although a broken structure cannot be called simple, houses with such a roof are very common. The reason for its popularity is the opportunity to arrange additional living rooms on the upper tier. For this reason, a roof with broken slopes is often called an attic roof.

The sloping roof makes the architecture of the building somewhat heavier, but it makes it possible to arrange several living spaces in the attic space

There are also more complex structures consisting of many hips, as well as those in which a hipped roof is combined with other types of roofing systems. The design and installation of such a roof requires many years of experience and knowledge, so it is better to entrust the construction of a sophisticated roof to specialists.

Design of hip roofs

When developing a hip roof, all types of loads that will affect it are taken into account. To do this, you must first resolve several important issues:

special purpose attic space;
roofing material;
degree of atmospheric influence in the construction region.

Based on these factors, the degree of slope of the slopes and the roof area are determined, the loads are calculated and a decision is made on the design and parameters of the rafter system.

Geometric parameters of slopes

The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the snow and wind load, therefore it varies within a very wide range - from 5 to 60 degrees. In areas with rainy weather and high snow cover, roofs with a slope of 45 to 60 degrees are erected. If the region is characterized by strong winds and minimal precipitation, then the slope can be reduced to the very minimum.

When determining the angular parameters of the roof, it is necessary to take into account what material it will be covered with:

slate sheets, ondulin, roofing metal and roll materials laid on slopes with a slope of 14 to 60 degrees;
the tiles are mounted on a surface with a degree of slope from 30 to 60 degrees;
Roll coating is used on sloping slopes - from 5 to 18 degrees.

Having decided on the angle of the roof, it is not at all difficult to calculate at what height the ridge will be. To do this, use simple trigonometric formulas for a right triangle.

Roof area

Even the most complex hip roof consists of individual slopes that follow the contours of the simplest geometric shapes, so most often for calculations it is enough to know the linear dimensions of the base and the angles of inclination of the hips.

To determine the square footage of the roof, it is necessary to add up the areas of the slopes of which it consists

The total roof area is calculated by summing the square footage of the individual hips. Slopes of complex configuration are divided into several simple surfaces, after which separate calculations are carried out for each of them.

The principles for calculating the geometric parameters of hip roofs are based on calculations for simple surfaces

Load calculation

Loads acting on a hipped roof are divided into two types:

permanent,
periodic.

The first includes the weight of roofing materials, rafters, sheathing and other frame parts. The second is the forces exerted by precipitation and wind force. In addition, when calculating, one should take into account the payload in the form of various engineering systems and communications attached to the elements of the rafter system.

Based on SNiP, when designing a roof it is necessary to assume a snow load of 180 kg/sq.m. m. If there is a danger of snow accumulation on the roof, this parameter increases to 400–450 kg/sq. m. If the roof has a slope angle of more than 60 degrees, then the snow load can be ignored - precipitation does not linger on surfaces with such steep slopes.

The force of wind loads is much less - up to 35 kg/sq. m. If the roof slope is from 5 to 30 degrees, then the effect of the wind can be neglected.

The above parameters of atmospheric influences are average values accepted for the middle zone. When performing calculations, correction factors should be used depending on the region of construction.

Calculation of the rafter system

When calculating the rafter system, the pitch of the rafters and the maximum load they can carry are determined. Based on these data, a decision is made to install braces, which help redistribute the load, and tie-downs, which protect the frame from loosening.

The main load of the hip roof falls on the diagonal rafters

The presence of hips on hipped roofs, in addition to the usual rafters, requires the installation of diagonal rafters (in other words, slanted ones) - those that are attached to the ridge and directed to the corners of the building. Their length is greater than the transverse node elements of the roof. In addition, shortened elements - sprigs - are attached to the diagonal ribs. Compared to conventional rafters, slanted legs experience a load increased by 1.5–2 times, so their cross-section is doubled, and to ensure multi-span they are supported by one or two racks.

Often, hip roofs have a complicated rafter system, which, in contrast to a simple hipped structure, places additional load where vertical supports are installed. This feature must be taken into account when calculating the strength wooden frame roofs.

The distance for laying the rafters is called the pitch and is determined based on the length of the rafter leg and the cross-section of the lumber used. It is most convenient to determine this parameter using special tables, one of which is given below.

Table: dependence of the cross-section and pitch of rafters on their length

Manual calculations are quite labor-intensive. To reduce design time, you can use one of the online calculators to determine the parameters of hip roofs. With its help, you can determine not only geometric parameters, but also a lot of others no less important factors:

amount of moisture and heat insulation, taking into account overlaps;
amount of roofing material, including waste generated during cutting;
the volume of lumber required for arranging the rafter system;
length of overhangs, etc.

Video: using a construction calculator to calculate a roof

What materials will be needed to assemble the rafter system?

For the construction of a hip roof, timber and boards made of larch, pine and other coniferous wood are best suited. When choosing material for construction, it is necessary to carefully reject defective boards. Fungal damage, knots and cracks reduce the strength of the boards and affect the durability of the roof. When the wood moisture content is more than 22%, the lumber is stacked in the open air and dried. It should be understood that under-dried boards can warp, and this, in turn, will lead to a violation of the geometry of the roof with possible damage finishing coating.

To assemble a wooden frame, a rectangular beam with a cross-section from 80x80 mm to 150x150 mm is used - the exact parameters are determined by calculation or using the table above. As an alternative, you can use a board with a section of 50x100 mm or 50x200 mm. If there is a need to strengthen the rafter leg, then paired boards are used.

For reliable fastening, as well as increasing the rigidity of the wooden frame, steel brackets and other metal elements are used. Often, steel supports, rather than wooden ones, are installed under particularly loaded ridge girders. Combined frames have increased strength and reliability.

Features of the rafter system

In order to correctly design and install a hip roof, it is necessary to understand in detail its design, as well as the design features of the most common types of hip roofs.

The structure of the rafter system in detail

The frame of a hip roof consists of most of the same parts as a gable roof, but a more complex rafter system requires the installation of additional elements. Upon closer examination, the following components can be found:

All these elements can be found in any type of hip roof. The only exception is the hip roof, which does not have side rafters or ridge beams.

In wooden and frame houses, the rafter system is installed without a Mauerlat. In the first case, its functions are taken over by the outer crowns, and in the second - by the upper trim.

Types of rafter systems for hip roofs

Since the basis of the hip roof rafter system is made up of slanted rafters, when installing the roof frame, you must adhere to the following rules:

In structures where the slanted legs experience increased load, timber of double thickness is used for their manufacture.
Splice individual parts diagonal rafters are performed in places with maximum load(most often in their upper part) and are strengthened with the help of struts and vertical posts installed at an angle of 90° to the rafter legs.
When making slanted rafters, allowance should be made for local trimming, therefore effective length timber is increased by 5–10%.
Critical connection points of slanted rafter legs must be reinforced with metal fasteners - staples, twists or perforated construction strips.

When choosing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building and the presence of internal supports or permanent walls. Based on specific conditions, a scheme with hanging or layered rafters is chosen.

Hanging rafter system

A hanging rafter roof structure has no centerline supports, so the bulk of the weight falls on the outer perimeter walls. This feature manifests itself in the redistribution of internal forces - the rafter system is subjected to compressive and bending loads. As for the walls, significant pushing forces are transmitted to them. To eliminate this factor, each pair of rafters is connected to each other by so-called ties - jumpers made of wooden beams or rolled metal.

The tie can be located either at the base of the rafter legs or above. In the first case, the lintel will also act as a transverse beam, which is a good option for construction mansard roof. If the tightening is installed in the area of the midline or above, then it will only serve as a securing link. It should be noted that the cost of the rafter system depends on such a seemingly insignificant moment as the installation height of the tie rods. The higher the transverse jumpers are located, the larger the cross-section of all components of the wooden frame should be.

Hip roofs with layered and hanging rafters have differences between the supporting elements of the structure

Construction with layered rafters

A hip roof with layered rafters is suitable only for those houses inner space which are divided into two equal parts by a main wall or support pillars installed to support the ceiling. In this case, the lower edge of the rafter legs rests on the mauerlat, and the middle part rests on the load-bearing partition. The presence of additional support points allows you to relieve the elements of the rafter system by removing alternating horizontal forces from them, as well as from the walls of the building. Like roof beams, rafters begin to work only in bending. A frame with layered rafters becomes more rigid and durable compared to a structure that uses unsupported rafters. And this despite the fact that in the first case you can use timber of a smaller cross-section. And this helps reduce the weight of the wooden structure and reduces the cost of purchasing lumber.

Installation of a hip roof

The assembly of the rafter system must be carried out in a strictly defined order. This is necessary in order to correctly install and secure everything structural elements roofs.

To redistribute the load exerted on the walls roof structure, wind and precipitation, mauerlat is laid on the external walls. In individual construction, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm is used for these purposes. For fastening longitudinal beams designs use anchor studs. They must be laid in the upper rows of the masonry at the stage of wall construction. Waterproofing of the Mauerlat is carried out using two layers of roofing material, which is laid on top of the load-bearing walls.

The Mauerlat is attached to the load-bearing wall using bolts or anchors
If it is necessary to install vertical supports, beds are laid on the load-bearing walls. Wooden pads are used to horizontally level the elements of the rafter system. In the future, this will greatly simplify the installation of racks and purlins. If capital partitions are not provided for in the building plan, then vertical supports are mounted on floor beams. To do this, they are strengthened by joining two 50x200 mm boards or using one 100x200 mm beam.

Support of vertical posts on beams is allowed only if the structure rests on a permanent pier
Set up support posts. To level them, use a plumb line or laser level, after which temporary supports are installed. Metal angles and plates are used to attach the vertical support to the beam or horizontal beam.
Purlins are laid on top of the racks. A traditional hip roof requires the installation of one purlin, which, in fact, forms the ridge. Tent structures require the installation of four purlins. As with the installation of racks, fastening is carried out using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

The ridge purlin can be attached either directly to the rafter leg or using wooden plates
Preparing the rafters. The side rafters of simple hipped roofs are mounted in exactly the same way as the rafters on a gable roof. First you need to make a template. To do this, from the side of the outer support, apply a board of the same width as the rafters to the ridge. Its thickness should not exceed 25 mm - the template should be light. On this board, mark the notch necessary for reliable support and precise fit of the rafter leg to ridge beam, as well as a cutout corresponding to the junction with the Mauerlat. The marked areas are cut out and then used for quick preparation of the rafter legs.

Making a template can reduce the time it takes to prepare rafters for installation
By applying the manufactured sample to the purlin, it is necessary to check whether precise adjustment of the rafters is necessary. If there are gaps, cuts in the rafters are made taking into account the amendments. After all the supporting legs are ready, they are set in increments of 50–150 cm and attached to the Mauerlat and the ridge. For installation, staples are best suited, but strong metal corners can also be used.
As already mentioned, diagonal rafters are made from spliced boards or timber of increased cross-section. To install them, you will also need a template, which is prepared in full accordance with the method described above. Since the slanted rafters are adjacent to the corner of the mauerlat on one side, and rest on the racks on the other, the cut is made at an angle of 45° to the plane.

The layout of rafters and soffits on a hip roof is carried out according to a template
In the gaps between the sloped rafters, sprigs are attached. Their step corresponds to the distance between the rafters, and the diagonal legs and the mauerlat act as support points. The load experienced by the rafters cannot be compared with the weight that falls on the rafters, so the former can be constructed from boards 30–50 mm thick. To speed up installation, you will need a template with notches on the side of the diagonal rafters and the mauerlat, but the cutouts on half of the frames must be made in a mirror image.

The use of metal fasteners makes the rafter system more rigid and stable
If there is a need, fillies are attached to the rafters and frames. The ends of the rafter elements are cut along the cord.

Attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat can be done in several ways
Strengthens mowing and side rafters. In the first case, vertical trusses are used, and in the second, struts installed at an angle of 45° are used. They are supported on beds or beams.
After the rafter system is assembled, a roofing pie is installed on top of it.

The rafter system is prepared for installation of roofing materials

Lathing and insulation

Before proceeding with the installation of the sheathing, a vapor barrier and, if necessary, rolled thermal insulation are laid on top of the rafters. The top layer of insulation is covered waterproofing film, which is mounted with an overlap of 10–20 mm wide and secured to the beam with a construction stapler. After this, counter battens are nailed to the rafters. If the roofing pie is installed without insulation, then a vapor barrier is not required - a layer of moisture-resistant material will be sufficient. Of course, additional slats will not be needed in this case, since the boards supporting the roof will be attached directly to the frames and rafter legs.

Depending on the type of roofing material, one of two types of sheathing is used on hip roofs:

continuous;
sparse.

The first one is most often equipped for soft roof and only in some cases - for arranging the attic space. This type of lathing is made from boards with a width of 100 to 200 mm and a thickness of at least 20–25 mm. Installation is carried out without gaps. In addition, the use of plywood sheets and OSB boards. Their advantage is an extremely flat surface, which allows you to lay roofing material with minimal costs time and effort.

Under a soft roof they equip continuous sheathing from OSB, plywood or boards packed without gaps

For sparse sheathing, the same boards are used as in the first case, but they are mounted with a gap. Since this type of base is used for laying slate, corrugated sheets, metal tiles and roofing iron, then the distance between individual boards should take into account the characteristics of the roofing material.

The sheathing is fastened with nails, the length of which is equal to triple the thickness of the boards. If self-tapping screws are used for fixation, then a shorter threaded fastener with a length corresponding to double thickness lumber.

To fasten slate, ondulin and other sheet materials, use sparse lathing

Wooden base roofing pie mounted from bottom to top, with the first board of each slope being aligned parallel to the Mauerlat. First, the sheathing is stuffed on the hips, after which the protruding edges are cut off with a hacksaw flush with the diagonal ribs. Next, they begin to fasten the lumber on the main slopes, releasing the edges of the boards beyond the sloped rafters. After this, the ends of the boards are sawed down similarly to the first case.

Video: building a hip roof with your own hands

Typical hip roof design

When building a simple hip roof, you can use a standard project developed by specialists. Project documentation includes:

technological map;
roof plan;
rafter system diagrams;
drawings of sections and corner connections;
statement and specification with a complete list of materials used.

As a sample, below is documentation for a typical hip roof design for a house with an area of 155 square meters. m.

Gallery: drawings and diagrams of a hipped roof

The drawing indicates exact dimensions of all roofing elements Triangles lie at the base of the rafter truss Rafters of trapezoidal slopes rest on the long load-bearing walls of the building Tie-downs are installed at the base of the rafters and act as floor beams When creating a project, it is necessary to take into account the length of the rafters, their pitch, the recommended cross-section of timber or boards To fasten the rafters, wooden and metal products Fastenings allow you to transfer the load from one element of the system to another

Despite the apparent complexity of a hipped roof, building it with your own hands is not much more difficult than a gable structure. It is only important to carefully understand the purpose of the individual elements and the principles of constructing the rafter system. Otherwise, the reliability and durability of the roof will still depend on adherence to technology and careful installation. As for the additional difficulties and costs, they will be repaid with complete satisfaction from the work, which will make the building brighter and more attractive.

Roofs with four slopes have higher reliability and resistance to loads. This design is much more complex than a conventional gable one, and installation takes longer. And yet, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely doable task if you prepare properly and study in detail the intricacies of its construction.

The hip roof has many variations. The simplest design consists of 2 slopes trapezoidal shape, connecting in the center of the roof, and 2 triangular slopes on the side of the gables. Sometimes all four slopes are made triangular, then the ribs of the roof converge at a central point. More complex designs involve the presence of broken lines, a combination of short slopes with pediments, built-in straight and inclined windows, as well as multi-level slopes.

Without appropriate experience, it is impossible to build a rafter system of such a configuration, so it is better to pay attention to a standard hip roof.

The slope of the slopes can have an angle from 5 to 60 degrees. To calculate the optimal slope value, the following factors must be taken into account:

Gentle slopes are not suitable for arranging an attic, since they take up too much free space. Therefore, if an attic is planned in the house design, the roof slope should be 45 degrees or higher. You can select the angle of inclination depending on the type of roofing using the table.

Atmospheric loads are also of great importance. Where there is a lot of snow, you cannot make a slope of less than 30 degrees, otherwise the rafter system will not withstand the loads. If the angle of inclination is more than 60 degrees, the snow load can be ignored. In addition to these factors, you should consider the location of objects such as water tanks or ventilation chambers. They are usually suspended from the rafters and place additional stress on them. After preliminary calculations, you can begin drawing up a drawing of the rafter system.

Materials for roof installation

Like a gable roof, a hip roof consists of a mauerlat, tie rods, rafters, support posts, ridge beams and sheathing. The difference between the second design is the location of the rafters and their length. For a hipped roof, it is recommended to use lumber from pine or larch, good quality, without defects, with a maximum humidity of 22%.

The rafters are made from boards with a section of 50x100 mm; if the roof area is very large, it is better to take 50x200 mm boards. For Mauerlat you need solid timber with a cross section of at least 150x150 mm. Additionally, you will need metal threaded studs for fastening the Mauerlat, boards for sheathing and overhead metal plates, which are used to connect wooden elements.

Before assembling the roof, lumber must be impregnated with an antiseptic agent.

During the work you will need the following tools:

hacksaw;
building level;
plumb line and tape measure;
hammer;
drill;
screwdriver;
chisel;
Circular Saw.

Rafter system installation technology

Step 1. Laying the Mauerlat

In houses made of timber, the functions of the Mauerlat are performed the last crown a log house in which special grooves are cut for the rafters. IN brick houses The Mauerlat is laid on the walls around the perimeter of the box, having previously secured metal studs with threads between the bricks of the last rows. To more accurately mark the holes for fasteners, the timber is lifted and laid on top of the tips of the studs, and then hit with a hammer. After this, clear marks remain on the tree, along which holes are drilled.

Having removed the timber for drilling, the surface of the walls is covered with one or two layers of waterproofing material, usually roofing felt. It is placed directly on the studs and pressed downwards. Next, lay the Mauerlat, aligning the holes with the studs, align them horizontally and screw the nuts tightly onto the threads. At the corners, the beams are connected with metal plates or brackets. After fastening, the beam should not move even a millimeter, because the reliability of the entire rafter system depends on this.

Step 2. Installation of racks

If the house does not have a central load-bearing wall, it is necessary to lay the support beam perpendicular to the load-bearing floor beams. Connect two boards with a cross section of 50x200 mm, leaving a gap of 50 mm between them. To do this, short bars 50 mm thick are inserted between the boards and nailed. The distance between the bars is about 1.5 m; the beams are not fastened at the ends. Having measured the middle of the attic, lay the support beam so that its ends extend beyond the boundaries of the Mauerlat by 10-15 cm.

Now take 3 boards 50x150 mm, cut them to the height of the roof, and install them on the support beam using a plumb line. Each post should rest against the beam where the boards are connected by a block. The racks are temporarily reinforced with beams made from beams. The top of the racks is connected by a ridge beam, for which a 50x200 mm board is used.

Step 3. Attaching the central rafters

They take a rafter board and attach it with one end to the ridge beam and the other to the mauerlat on the front side of the building. Immediately adjust the length of the eaves overhang and cut off the excess. Mark the lines of the cuts with a pencil, after which they cut off the upper end of the board and make a groove in the mauerlat 1/3 of the width of the rafter. The board is nailed to the ridge, the lower edge is inserted into the groove on the Mauerlat and secured with metal plates.

The rest of the rafters are made in the same way and installed in 60 cm increments from the facade of the house. The outer boards should be positioned perpendicular to the ridge beam and attached to its ends. On the opposite side of the building, everything is done in the same way. On the hips there is only one rafter on each side: the board is placed on its edge and attached with the upper end to the ridge beam, and the lower end is inserted between the boards of the support beam and secured with nails.

Step 4. Attaching the corner rafters

To make corner rafters, two boards with a section of 50x150 mm are usually connected. In one of the upper corners of the box, at the point of connection of the mauerlat beams, a nail is driven in and a thin cord is tied to it. At the point of connection between the ridge and the central rafter, a nail is also driven in from the hip side, a cord is pulled to it and secured. This is how the line of diagonal, or corner, rafters is designated. Their length must be the same, otherwise the roof will be uneven. The prepared rafter is lifted up, placed along the markings and connected to the ridge beam and mauerlat. The overhang of the rafters is approximately 50-70 cm.

Step 5. Installation of spigots

To secure the diagonal rafters, they use spigots - shortened rafters, the lower end of which rests on the mauerlat and located at right angles to the ridge beam. They are attached in increments of 60 cm, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter. As they approach the diagonal, the narozhniki make everything shorter. Now it is necessary to strengthen the structure with ties and braces, as well as install additional vertical supports.

If the span under the diagonal rafter is more than 7 m, you need to install another support at a distance of a quarter of the span from the corner of the attic. The lower end of the rack should rest on the floor beam. In the case when the beam is located further than the designated place or is completely absent, instead of a vertical post, a sprengel is attached - a horizontal jumper made of timber, the ends of which are nailed to the sprocket.

Step 5. Installation of the sheathing

When all the supports are installed, you can fill the sheathing. For a hipped roof, the sheathing is done in the same way as for a gable roof. First, a waterproofing membrane is attached to each slope separately. The joints are carefully taped, and then thin slats are stuffed over the membrane to provide an air gap. The boards are laid in increments of up to 40 cm, depending on the type of roof, and always perpendicular to the rafters.

At this point, the assembly of the rafter system is considered complete. All that remains is to insulate the structure, lay the roofing, install wind strips and sheathe the overhangs. To make a hipped roof look more stylish, it is recommended to install inclined or straight windows on the slopes.

Video - DIY hipped roof

The problem of choosing the most successful roof frame design is always accompanied by two conflicting desires. No matter what type of building is planned for construction, any developer would prefer to get the most attractive, strong and durable structure possible, at relatively low construction costs. The hipped roof rafter system most fully meets the above requirements, which today is one of the optimal design solutions for the housing stock.

Advantages and disadvantages of using hip roofs

Even a superficial glance at a hipped roof system suggests that such a rafter frame system of two pairs of symmetrical slopes will look much more elegant and prettier than the simplified design of a gable structure.

It is clear that most future customers prefer to build a rafter system for their home not only because of a more interesting design, although appearance buildings are also important. First of all, such a design solution is chosen because of the tangible advantages of the four-slope system:

The use of two additional opposing slopes instead of roof gables reduces the wind load on the entire structure of the rafter system;
Installing two additional inclined surfaces makes it possible to remove and dump any amount of rainwater, snow and ice from the roofing pie, the most dangerous type of moisture - water condensate;
Using a hipped roof system allows you to reduce heat loss by reducing the total area of the roofing and gable surfaces.

Important! A roof with four slopes cannot be built “by eye” and using the fitting method, therefore, before making rafters for the roof, the dimensions of the rafter beams of the four-slope system must be calculated using tables and checked by lengths and joining angles before cutting and assembly.

The four-slope rafter system is a balanced structure in which the loads on the roof frame from the roofing pie, snow and wind are mutually compensated, like in a house of cards. If you try to assemble the frame without careful project preparation, instead of maximum strength and stability, you can get an emergency object.

The four-slope rafter system also has a lot of disadvantages. Most often, problems arise due to the need to take additional measures to protect the joints on the mating line of the slopes. In addition, 30% more roofing material, insulation and expensive long timber will be required.

Options for a hipped roof scheme

In addition to the classic version, which uses two triangular and two trapezoidal planes, a roof with four slopes can be built using one of the types of frame:

All modifications of the hip or hip scheme are designed for specific climatic conditions of roof operation. For example, Danish roofs resist wind well and a large number snow, while “Dutch” boots are designed to withstand heavy rain and snowfall in urban areas. Tent structures with small slope angles are used for buildings in open, windy areas. The classic version can be used for any conditions, but in this case you will need to carefully check the position of the building relative to the wind rose.

Construction of a rafter frame for a hipped roof

The easiest way to understand the structure of the rafter system of a hipped roof is from the drawings. In a conventional gable structure, the weight of the rafter beams was partially transferred to ridge run and on timber lining of walls or mauerlat.

Balancing the two roof slopes is relatively simple by simply adjusting the rafters and installing struts.

In a four-slope rafter system, everything is much more complicated, therefore, in addition to ordinary rafters, a significantly larger number of power elements have to be used in the roof frame:

Sloping or diagonal rafters. With their help, the side slopes of the roof are formed, the rafter system is balanced in the direction along the main axis of the roof;
Central rafter beams. Often the strength and stability of diagonal rafters is not enough, especially on large roofs, so you have to use central rafters installed on the same axis with the ridge girder;
Roofs are short rafters that form the side slopes of the roof. The length of each frame is calculated and cut at the location where the rafter is installed on the frame.

In addition to rafter elements, when building a hipped roof, trusses, struts and struts must be used. With their help, the load is strengthened and redistributed in the roof’s load-bearing elements.

For your information! The result is a rather complex multi-element design; in order to take into account all the requirements for the strength and stability of the rafter system, it is best to use a ready-made software package, even the simplest one.

Of course, you can build a rafter system without any design and calculations. For example, you can use timber and boards of increased cross-section, and instead of the recommended strength coefficient of 1.4 units, get a two or three times safety margin bearing capacity. But it is worth understanding that in this case the weight of the rafter system and the cost of building a hipped roof will increase by 3 and 8 times, respectively.

Methodology for calculating the lengths of rafters of a hipped system

For the simplest buildings, for example, a gazebo, barn or small garden house, you can use a simplified version of calculating the lengths of rafter beams. To do this, you will need to draw up drawings of the rafter system of the hipped roof. To simplify the calculation, we choose the classic version with two side triangular hips and trapezoidal main slopes.

The basis for calculating the roof truss structure is a system of right triangles. Each rafter represents the hypotenuse of a right triangle. The smaller leg is equal to the height of the ridge posts, and the larger leg coincides with the projection of the rafter onto the plane ceiling, which is also called mortgage. The projection line intersects with the axial or projection of the ridge beam at an angle of 45°, which greatly simplifies the calculation.

Initially, you will need to select the angle of inclination of the slopes, usually 20-35 o, depending on the design of the hipped roof and the type of roofing. For calculations, you can use the Pythagorean theorem for a right triangle or standard tables with ready-made conversion factors for rafter lengths for given angles. In such tables, the angle value is indicated as a decimal fraction, for example, 3:12. This means that for a given angle and laying length of 12 m, the height of the rack will be 3 m. The conversion factor for a diagonal rafter is also given here; it is enough to multiply the laying length by the value of the corresponding table correction.

At the first stage, we will determine the installation coordinates of the vertical posts of the ridge and its length. To do this, measure the distance from the corner to the intersection point of the center line and the Mauerlat, then lay off the resulting segment from the corner along the ridge axis and draw a line parallel to the wall. The intersection point of the axis and the drawn line will give the installation location for one of the ridge posts. A similar procedure will need to be performed again on the opposite wall, as a result we will obtain the installation point of the second rack and the length of the ridge beam.

At the second stage, using a plumb line, you will need to measure the position of the diagonal rafter with a ruler, knowing the angle of inclination of the slope, you can calculate the length of the slanted rafter beam. The length of row and central rafters is calculated in a similar way.

The calculation of the moneymakers is a little more complicated. First, the diagonal rafter beam is marked with the step of installing the flanges, as a rule, this is 70-90 cm. Each flange can be considered as a leg of a triangle. Knowing the size of the leg and the height of the junction point of the outer rafter to the diagonal beam, you can easily calculate the size of the outer rafter.

If trusses are used in the design of a hipped roof to strengthen the diagonals, then their size can be calculated even more easily. Most often they are installed at a distance from the corner of 1/3 of the laying length.

Features of assembling a hipped roof frame

The process of assembling the rafter system of a hipped roof always begins with the installation of the central element of the frame - the ridge girder and vertical posts. A ridge bench can be assembled from timber with a cross-section of 70x100 mm, but most often the racks are made from a pair of 50 mm boards. To increase the rigidity of the entire system of ridge beams and posts, metal plates are stuffed into the corner joints, and the frame itself is reinforced with internal bracing.

Typically, the assembly of rafter beams is carried out using nails, and the places where they are reinforced with steel plates are fixed with bolted connections. Before installing the rafter beams, a sawing template in the form of a right triangle is usually made from a sheet of plywood. The acute angle should correspond to the angle of inclination of the slopes. Using a template, mounting areas for supports on the mauerlat and ridge are cut out on the rafters.

The process of installing rafters begins with the installation of central rafter beams, which will provide the necessary rigidity of the ridge frame in the axial direction. Sometimes they do without them, in which case they immediately proceed to the installation of the outer pairs of ordinary rafters, but the timber is only grabbed with nails, without final fixation to the ridge.

After strengthening the ridge frame, corner diagonal rafters are installed. Typically, the length of a beam or beam is cut with a margin, since the upper edge will need to be sawed at a double angle, first at the angle of inclination of the slope, then the oblique edge is beveled at an angle of 45 degrees. At the last stage, they install the trusses, struts, fill the frames and ordinary rafters.

Conclusion

The most difficult stage of assembling the rafter system of a hipped roof is the joining of two diagonal beams with the ridge. The strength and stability of the entire hipped roof depends on how accurately the diagonals are inserted, so most of the time has to be spent on adjusting and trimming the size of the rafters. The rest of the assembly operations are practically no different from the construction of a gable rafter system.

Classic - the design with four slopes remains unusual for Russians, evoking associations with the overseas way of life. They build it when they want to use interesting architectural solutions, to achieve a special effect that is perceived differently, the house compares favorably with monotonous buildings.

The photo of a hipped roof shows a wide variety of options, the main thing is to build in accordance with all the rules, then you can take advantage of the numerous advantages.

Types of hipped roofs

Making drawings of hipped roofs yourself is a difficult task: specialists will be able to correctly perform the calculations. The slopes are made as isosceles triangles; when the roof looks like a square from above, it is hipped, and if it resembles a rectangle, the variety is called hip.

Classic variation

The classics include a hip or Dutch roof, which is resistant to adverse weather conditions: strong winds and heavy snowfalls.

The surface of the structure is formed by 2 slopes in the form of a trapezoid on the long sides and 2 slopes with a triangular shape on the short sides.

Many modern architects believe that, aesthetically, a Dutch roof looks more presentable compared to a hip roof. The rafter system is formed by 4 support bars; they descend from the slopes to the upper corners of the structure.

2 types of half-hip roof:

Dutch - a part is cut off from the side slopes from the end upper side.
Danish - a part is cut off from the side slopes from the end bottom side.

Dutch roof design

The half-hip combines the characteristics of a gable and hip roof: the end slopes are presented in the form of triangles, the length of the hip is 1.5 - 3 times less than the length of the side slopes.

The design allows for the installation of a vertical window; it does not have a sharp protrusion characteristic of a gable roof, so the roof can withstand high wind loads.

Danish roof design

This type of hip roof is characterized by ease of installation; it is necessary to mount the end slope from below, leaving a small pediment under the ridge.

The Danish design provides the following benefits to users:

No need to install problematic skylights who require high-quality waterproofing.
The option provides good natural light to the attic floor thanks to vertical glazing.

Hip roof design

This type of roof is installed on buildings with a square perimeter; an important nuance is that all slopes must have the same shape. The construction of a hip structure is more complex when compared to a hip structure: it is necessary for the rafters to meet at one point.

Rafter system

DIY hipped roof - optimal solution for everyone who wants to save money on their family budget. Sequence of construction work:

The planning and design phase is time consuming and every detail needs to be carefully considered. No matter how easy the installation of the roof may seem, be sure to make a drawing, which will help identify defects and shortcomings.

If the calculation of a hipped roof is done incorrectly, it will be quite difficult to correct the situation - as a result of the error, the diagonal rafters will not connect at the ridge. It is better to use the best option; prepare a drawing using one of the special graphic programs.

Creating a 3D model allows you to see what the future roof will look like; to prepare a detailed drawing, seek professional help.

Preparation of structural elements

The Mauerlat is laid on top along the perimeter of the walls, its task is to serve as a support for the rafters; the material used is 15x10 cm timber.

The slope of the roof is made using rafter legs, standard rafters are made from boards 50X150 mm, diagonal ones - 100X150 mm.

Special tightenings do not allow the rafter legs to move; they are fixed, and their ends are connected at the bottom; a 50X150 m board is taken for manufacturing.

A beam made of timber 100x100 mm or 100x150 mm is a transverse beam that serves as a support for the posts that hold the ridge girder.

The slopes do not allow the rafters to move; they are installed at an angle to the racks; the material used is timber with the same dimensions as for making the beam.

On vertical stand the ridge rests on it; it is made from mauerlat material.

The horizontal wind board connects the rafter ends from below; it is nailed to the rafters from the inside of the roof using a 100x50 mm board.

A filly is attached to the outside of the structure - a board made of exactly the same material.

The most complex element is considered to be the truss; it gives rigidity to the roof, connecting the horizontal and vertical components. The sprengel is made from timber with dimensions of 100x100 mm; it must be installed at an angle.

Rashes or shortened rafters are found only in hip roofs; they are made from 50x150 mm boards.

Attic floor installation

It is better to make roof hangers from steel; they are used for fastening special clamps and purlins, suspended ceilings significantly reduce the load.

If the trusses are steel, then the ceiling is made fireproof, and steel is laid between the beams. reinforced concrete slabs prefabricated type, and light insulation is placed on them.

The optimal material for the manufacture of load-bearing structures is large-sized factory-produced panels with high fire resistance.

Installation of a ridge run

It will be necessary to make 2 runs if the structure has permanent longitudinal walls or there are internal pillars in 2 rows. When the building has internal supports, construction trusses are made and the ceiling is suspended from them. When the width of the house is large, the structure is suspended on steel clamps to the truss belt below.

Installation of rafters

The diagonal rafter legs must rest on the ridge; they are additionally secured with metal wire.

When one purlin is made, the diagonal legs are nailed to the console, and when there are two purlins, they are attached to a truss structure made of a horizontal beam with racks.

Photo of a hipped roof

Construction of a frame for a roof with four slopes is a complex process with characteristic technological features. During construction, our own structural components are used, the sequence of work is different. But the result will amaze with its spectacular shape and durability when repelling atmospheric attacks. AND House master will be able to be proud of his personal achievements as a roofer.

However, before you decide on a device similar design, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the algorithm according to which the rafter system of a hipped roof is constructed and with the specifics of its design.

The class of hipped roofs combines two types of structures that resemble a square and rectangular envelope in plan. The first variety is called tent, the second - hip. Compared to their pitched counterparts, they are distinguished by the absence of pediments, called gables in the roofing industry. In the construction of both versions of hipped structures, layered and hanging rafters are used, the installation of which is carried out in accordance with standard technologies for the construction of pitched rafter systems.

Characteristic differences within the four-slope class:

U hip roof all four slopes have the shape of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which converge at one highest point. There is no ridge as such in a tent structure; its function is performed by the central support in layered systems or the top of a hanging truss.
For a hip roof, a pair of main slopes has a trapezoidal configuration, and the second pair has a triangular configuration. The hip structure differs from its tent-type counterpart in the obligatory presence of a ridge, to which the trapezoids are adjacent at the upper bases. Triangular slopes, also known as hips, are adjacent to the ridge at the top, and their sides are connected to the inclined sides of the trapezoids.

Based on the configuration of the roofs in plan, it is clear that hipped structures are usually erected over square buildings, and hip structures over rectangular houses. Both soft and . Characteristic square or rectangular shape repeat the drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof with a clearly marked arrangement of elements in the plan and vertical projections of the slopes.

Often, hip and hip systems are used together in the construction of one building or effectively complement gable, lean-to, sloping and other roofs.

Structures with four slopes can rest directly on the upper crown of a wooden house or on the Mauerlat, which serves as the top frame of brick or concrete walls. If you can find upper and lower supports under each rafter, roof frame It is constructed using layered technology.

Installation of layered rafter legs is simpler and more accessible for an inexperienced home roofer, who needs to take into account that:

When rigidly fastening the upper and lower heels of the rafters with metal corners or using a supporting wooden plate, reinforced fastening of the Mauerlat will be required, because the thrust will be transferred to it.
If the upper heel is rigidly fixed and the bottom of the rafter is hinged, there is no need to strengthen the fastening of the Mauerlate, because if the load on the roof is exceeded, a hinged fastening, for example on sliders, will allow the rafter to move slightly without creating pressure on the mauerlat.
When the top of the rafters is hinged and the bottom is rigidly fixed, expansion and pressure on the Mauerlat are also eliminated.

Issues of fastening the Mauerlat and the closely related method of installing rafter legs according to the rules are resolved at the stage of designing a house. If the building does not have an internal load-bearing wall or it is not possible to build reliable supports for the central part of the roof, nothing will work other than a hanging rafter system assembly scheme. True, in most cases the layered construction method is used, for the implementation of which it is necessary to provide in advance a load-bearing support inside the structure.

In the construction of rafter systems for hipped and hipped roofs, specific structural elements are used, these are:

Diagonal rafter legs forming the spinal connections of the slopes. IN hip structures diagonals, also known as slanted rafters, connect the ridge girder consoles to the corners of the roof. IN tent systems slanted legs connect the top to the corners.
Spreaders, or rafter half-legs, installed perpendicular to the eaves. They rest on diagonal rafters and are located parallel to each other, therefore they differ in different lengths. Narozhniki form the planes of tent and hip slopes.

Diagonal rafters and flanges are also used for the construction of valleys, only then concave corners of the roof are arranged, and not convex ones like hip ones.

The whole difficulty of constructing frames for roofs with four slopes lies in the installation of diagonal rafters, which determine the result of the formation of the structure. In addition, the slopes must withstand a load one and a half times greater than ordinary rafters of pitched roofs. Because they also work as a hobbyhorse, i.e. support for the upper heel of the runners.

If we briefly describe the procedure for constructing a layered frame for a hipped roof, then it can be done in several stages:

Construction of a mauerlat on brick or concrete walls. The process of installing a mauerlat on walls made of logs or timber can be eliminated, because it can be successfully replaced by the upper crown.
Installation of the central support for the hip structure or the supporting frame of the main part of the hip roof.
Installation of conventional layered rafters: a pair for a hip roof and a row determined by the design solution for a hip structure.
Installation of diagonal rafter legs connecting the corners of the systems with the top of the support or the extreme points of the ridge.
Manufacturing to size and fastening of spigots.

In the case of using a hanging frame scheme, the start of construction tent frame There will be a triangular roof truss installed in the center. The installation of a four-slope hip rafter system will begin with the installation of a number of roof trusses.

Construction of a hip rafter system

Let's look at one of the common examples of a hip roof with layered rafter legs. They will have to rely on floor beams laid on top of the Mauerlat. Rigid fastening with a notch will be used only to fix the top of the rafter legs on the ridge girder, so there is no need to strengthen the Mauerlat fasteners. The dimensions of the box of the house shown in the example are 8.4 × 10.8 m. Actual sizes The roof plan will increase on each side by the amount of the eaves overhang, by 40-50cm.

Installation of the base according to the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is a purely individual element; the method of its installation depends on the material of the walls and the architectural features of the building. The method of laying the Mauerlat is planned according to the rules during the design period, because for reliable fixation of the Mauerlat it is recommended:

Lightweight foam concrete, gas silicate and similar walls should be equipped with a reinforced reinforced concrete belt, poured around the perimeter, with anchors installed during the pouring period to secure the Mauerlat.
Edge the brick walls with a side of one or two bricks along the outer edge so that a ledge is formed along the inner edge for laying a wooden frame. During laying, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks to secure the Mauerlat with brackets to the wall.

The mauerlat is made from timber measuring 150×150 or 100×150mm. If you intend to use the under-roof space, it is advisable to take thicker beams. The timber is connected into a single frame with oblique cuts. Then the connection areas are reinforced with self-tapping screws, ordinary nails or wood grouse, and the corners are reinforced with staples.

Floor beams are laid on top of the horizontally leveled mauerlat, constructed in the optimal way for a particular building. A beam with a cross section of 100×200mm is used. The first step is to lay a beam running exactly along the central axis of the building. In the example, the length of the timber is not enough to construct solid beams, so they are assembled from two beams. The docking point must be located above a reliable support. In the example, the support is an internal load-bearing wall.

The pitch between the floor beams is 60 cm. If the box being equipped does not have ideal parameters, as is the case in most situations, the distance between the beams can be changed slightly. Such an adjustment allows you to slightly “smooth out” the flaws in construction. Between the outer beams on both sides and the walls of the house there should be a gap of 90 cm wide, necessary for installing the outriggers.

Because the floor beams can independently form only two eaves overhangs; short half-beams of the floor - extensions - are attached to their ends. They are first installed only in the area of the main part of the hip roof, exactly where the rafter legs are to be mounted. The extension is nailed to the mauerlat, fastened to the beam with screws, large-caliber nails, dowels, and the fasteners are reinforced with corners.

Construction of the ridge part

The central part of the hip roof is an ordinary gable structure. The rafter system for it is arranged according to the rules dictated by. In the example there are some deviations from the classical interpretation of the pitched principle: the bed on which supports for the ridge run are traditionally installed is not used. The work of the beam will have to be done by the central floor beam.

In order to build the ridge part of the hip roof rafter system you need to:

Build a support frame for the rafter legs, the top of which will rest on the ridge girder. The purlin will rest on three supports, the central one of which is installed directly on central beam ceilings To install the two outer supports, first two cross beams are laid, covering at least five floor beams. Stability is increased with the help of two struts. For the manufacture of horizontal and vertical parts of the supporting frame, a block with a cross-section of 100x150mm was used, the struts were made of boards 50x150mm.
Make rafter legs, for which you first need to make a template. A board of suitable size is applied to the installation site, and lines for future cuts are drawn on it. This will be the template for the continuous production of rafters.
Install the rafter legs, resting them with the notch on the ridge girder, and with the lower heel on the stem located opposite.

If the floor beams were laid across the frame, then the rafters of the main part of the roof would rest on the floor beams, which is much more reliable. However, in the example they rest on the stem, so it is necessary to arrange additional mini-supports for them. These supports should be positioned so that the load from them and the rafters located above is transferred to the walls.

Then three rows of outriggers are installed on each of the four sides. For the convenience of further actions, the roof contour is formed with a cornice board. It must be nailed to the floor beams and extensions strictly horizontally.

Installation of corner extensions

In the space limited by the eaves board, there were corner areas left unfilled with parts of the rafter system. Here you will need corner offsets, for installation of which is carried out as follows:

To indicate the direction of installation, pull the string. We stretch from the point of conditional intersection of the outer support of the frame with the floor beam to the corner.
On top of the lace we place the block in its place. Holding the block, we draw cut lines from below where the block intersects the floor beam and the corner connection of the eaves boards.
We attach the finished stem with sawn off excess to the mauerlat and to the floor beam with corners.

The remaining three corner extensions are manufactured and installed in the same way.

Installation of diagonal rafters

Diagonal, or also slanted, rafter legs are made from two boards sewn together with a cross-section equal to the size of ordinary rafters. In the example, one of the boards will be located slightly higher than the second due to the difference in the angles of inclination of the hips and trapezoidal slopes.

Sequence of work for the manufacture and installation of slopes:

From the highest point of the skate, we stretch the lace to the corners and to the central point of the slope. These are auxiliary lines along which we will mark upcoming cuts.
Using a carpenter's goniometer, we measure the angle between the lace and the upper side of the corner stem. This is how the angle of the bottom cut is determined. Let's assume it is equal to α. The angle of the upper cut is calculated using the formula β = 90º – α.
At an angle β we cut off one edge of a random piece of board. We apply it to the place of the upper fastening, aligning the edge of this workpiece with the lace. We outline the excesses that interfere with a tight installation. You need to cut again along the marked lines.
At an angle α we saw off the lower heel on another piece of board.
We make the first half of the diagonal rafter using templates for the upper and lower support. If a solid board is not long enough, you can join two pieces together. They can be spliced using a meter-long piece of inch mounted on self-tapping screws; it should be placed on the outside of the bevel leg being constructed. We install the finished first part.
We make the second part of the sloped rafter in the same way, but keep in mind that it should be slightly lower than its first half. The area where the boards are joined into one element should not coincide with the area where the boards are joined in the first half of the slope.
We sew two boards with nails at intervals of 40-50 cm.
Along the cord stretched to the center of the slope, we draw a line along which it will be necessary to adjust the cut to connect it with the adjacent rafter.

Following the described algorithm, you need to install three more diagonal legs. Supports should be installed under each of them at the point where the corner extensions are connected to the beams. If the span is more than 7.5 m, another support is installed diagonally closer to the ridge.

Manufacturing and installation of hip rafters

The lace between the top of the skate and the center of the slope is already stretched. It served as an axis for outlining the cuts, and now you need to measure the angle γ using it and calculate the angle δ = 90º – γ. Without deviating from the proven path, we prepare templates for the upper and lower supports. We apply the top trim to the place intended for it and mark the cut lines on it for a tight fit between the diagonal rafters. Using the blanks, we make the central leg of the hip and fix it where it should be.

We install short extensions in the space between the corner extensions and the cornice board to add rigidity to the structure and to ensure strong fixation of the outermost, shortest extensions. Next, you should start making templates for the makers themselves:

We cut the piece of board at an angle δ and attach it to the place of attachment to the diagonal rafter.
We outline the excess that needs to be cut down again. The resulting template is used in the manufacture of all flaps, for example the right side of the hip. For the left part, the upper template will be filed from the opposite side.
As a template for the lower heel of the splices, we use a piece of board sawn off at an angle γ. If all previous steps were performed correctly, then this template is used to make the lower attachment points for all other springs.

In accordance with the actual length and “indications” of the templates, the splices are made, which are necessary for forming the planes of the hips and the parts of the main slopes that are not filled with ordinary rafter legs. They are installed so that the upper fastening points of the spigots to the diagonal rafters are spaced apart, i.e. the upper connecting nodes of adjacent slopes should not converge in one place. The splices are attached to the slanted rafter leg with corners, to the floor beams and outriggers in the way that is more reasonable and convenient: with corners or metal toothed plates.

The technology for installing a hip roof is based on the already familiar hip principles. True, there is no ridge part of the rafter system in their design. The construction begins with the installation of a central support, to which the rafters are attached, and then the frames. If hanging technology is used in the construction of an envelope roof, then the finished truss is installed first.

We invite you to use our free online calculator to calculate building materials when installing a hip roof - and follow the instructions.

Useful video instructions

The video will briefly introduce the sequence and rules for installing the rafter system of a hipped roof of the hip and hip categories:

Having become familiar with the specifics of the device and having mastered the intricacies of installing roofs with four slopes, you can safely begin to implement plans for its construction.