Since ancient times, the construction of houses and baths was made using log houses. This is the one with ancient technologies, which has survived to this day and is in demand among developers. Similar designs have increased environmental friendliness, and thanks to natural material a special microclimate is created.
Logs from coniferous species, which are used in manufacturing, have a beneficial effect on the nervous and cardiac systems. But how to build a log frame and what material is best to choose - this question remains open, since laying and cutting is a purely individual job.
Some features
Work on the manufacture of the system is done almost manually; erecting structures using timber is easier, since the logs need to be cut through the gutter and collated. When installing, logs must be of the same cross-section.
The log house is technological process in construction, where logs are used as a material. This name also applies to the house itself. Making a log house from round timber is considered the most economical option.
The structure is durable, resistant to seismic changes (unlike brick). Additional processing logs protects against moisture and damage by insects. Before considering how to make a log house from round timber, you need to familiarize yourself with its properties and choose suitable material for construction.
Houses built from round timber are not exposed to the external environment.
In addition, they are durable because hand-processed logs retain their protective layer, and a log that has been rounded does not have a protective layer. Log houses installed using round logs have an individual appearance due to different diameters, and when laying them they alternate. Baths look especially good when using round timber.
Houses built from rounded logs have excellent thermal insulation. They are warm even in the deepest frosts and cool when it is very hot outside. The installation of houses of this type is carried out quite quickly, since the logs are processed on woodworking machines and are ready for assembly. They are made exactly to measure and fit well together. After installation, such buildings do not require additional insulation.
Glued laminated timber is considered much stronger than solid wood. There are no cracks in it, and the knots look pretty decent. Such timber is covered with special natural impregnations, which protect the wood from moisture and insect damage. In addition, they make it resistant to impact ultraviolet rays and flame retardant. As for the financial side of a house made of this material, it will be much cheaper to build a log house from timber than from natural logs.
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Log house made of timber: characteristics
A timber frame is made from material natural humidity and is cut at the place of its installation. The installation technology consists of laying beams on top of each other, and the use of dowels imparts rigidity to the structure.
The dowel looks like a stick round shape with a cross section of 25-30 mm from durable species such as birch or oak. A through hole is simultaneously drilled in several beams at once, into which the dowel is driven.
The hole is made 50-70 mm longer than the length of the dowel, this is necessary so that when the log house shrinks, the crowns do not hang and gaps do not form between them. The gap between the dowels should be up to 2 meters.
Install dowels near corners, as well as at door and window openings, maintaining a distance of at least 10 cm from the edge. When installing between the beams, it is necessary to lay insulation, which is jute, flax tow or moss.
Cold corners located on the north side are connected with tenons, but if the corners are warm, then they are joined with grooves.
To assemble a log frame, you often have to join them, since the main working length is 6 m. The beams can be joined in 3 ways:
- A horizontal joint is when a part of one beam is superimposed on another. This joint is cold, because when applied, a gap is formed from the outer to the inner edge.
- A vertical joint is considered to be the imposition of one beam on another in a vertical position, and the joint is formed warm.
- The beams are joined at the end side, and a flat tenon is made in the inner part of the joint. This joint is also warm.
Once the entire frame is assembled, only after that the window and door openings are cut out. In the center of the openings, to avoid deformation during shrinkage, it is necessary to lay timber.
All photos from the article
Wood blocks are one of the most common types of lumber, which is widely used in construction and manufacturing. wooden structures. In the article we will look at the types and methods of connecting timber, and also find out whether it is possible to attach drywall to wooden beams.
Features of timber
Varieties and sizes
Wooden beams are lumber with regular rectangular shapes sections. In GOST terminology, there are differences between timber and timber. Thus, timber with a side of 100 mm or more is called timber, and a beam can have a thickness of up to 100 mm and a width that is no more than twice the thickness.
Timber is produced by trimming logs or by gluing lamellas. Lamels are boards from which beams of the required section are assembled.
Lumber is usually made from boards by sawing them to length. If at least one face or both edges of the product are processed by planing, then it is called planed. The timber, depending on the number of processed planes, can be two-edged, three-edged or four-edged.
If the material is processed and dried to the specified dimensions and moisture content, then it is called calibrated. Lumber can be produced from deciduous and coniferous wood.
The following dimensions are typical for softwood timber: 16, 19, 22, 25, 32, 40, 44, 50, 60 and 75 mm in width and thickness. The length can vary from one meter to six and a half in increments of 250 mm.
Often there is a need to get timber from a log rectangular section. It's not that difficult to do.
If you already know how to cut logs correctly, then cutting out timber will also not be difficult for you. The main thing is to mark the log correctly in order to obtain a beam of the required size.
We have already discussed cutting a log into two edges in the article on preparing logs.
Let's see now how to cut a rectangular or square beam from a log.
Marking logs to obtain a rectangular beam
When marking, you should be careful and take into account that the diameters of the butt and apical parts differ. Therefore, it is best to start marking from the end with a smaller diameter.
Secure the log in any way convenient for you, as described in the article on preparing logs.
Draw a circle, then mark its diameter in the form of a vertical line connecting the top point of the circle to the bottom. For work, use a special carpenter's compass with hardened metal ends.
The resulting diameter must be divided into three equal segments and perpendiculars drawn through their ends so that they intersect with the circle.
After this, connect the intersection points with the circle to form a rectangle.
The most advantageous aspect ratio is 5:7, that is, 10:14, 15:25, 20:28, etc. – these will be profitable sections.
Marking logs to obtain a square beam
In some cases, it is necessary to obtain a square beam. In this case, the circle is divided by two diameters perpendicular to each other, after which the intersection points of the diameters with the circle are connected by straight lines.
All basic operations for marking the ends of logs to obtain rectangular and square beams are shown in the figure below.
Basic operations for cutting timber from a log
First, mark the central axis (diameter).
Then the ends of the log are marked as described above.
After this, chamfering lines are marked along the ends of the log marked with a chalked cord.
To do this, the cord is secured along the edges of the log in pinches made with an ax, so that the cord is taut. After this, the cord is pulled back a little, like a bowstring, and released. When the cord hits the log, it leaves a line. The cutting will be done along this line.
First, along the side to be hewn, cuts are made with an ax every 20-40 centimeters, not reaching the hew-off line a few millimeters.
After this, a rough cut is made with an ax, removing the main layer of wood, moving from cut to cut. When the main layer of wood being removed has been removed, the surface to be hewn is cleaned either with careful clearing blows of an ax or with a sherhebel.
Today, beams are rarely hewn out of logs with an ax. For this purpose, there are milling-canter lines that produce timber on an industrial scale. However, when building a bathhouse, you may encounter a situation where you need to cut out flat surface on one or more sides of the log. Therefore, you need to know the basic techniques for cutting a beam out of a log or cutting a log by 1-2 edges.
In the construction of bathhouses, hand-held electric and gas-powered tools are currently widely used. If you make a plane with a chainsaw, then the sequence of operations will be the same - marking, making cuts along the side to be cut, rough removal of a layer of wood, and only then finishing to the cutting line using an ax or electric plane.
Now you know how to cut a log, how to hew timber from a log. In other articles we will talk about how to correctly make a groove in a beam or log, how to saw wood correctly, how to plan boards and beams.
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Dowels and round insert tenons are often used to assemble joinery products. When making furniture at home, it is easier to work with dowels; there is no need to cut out tenons at the ends of the parts and hammer in sockets.
Dowels, that is, round blanks, are sold in stores and there is even a choice of diameters. Only the accuracy is not enough, but to do quality furniture It is necessary to precisely adjust the dowels to the diameter of the socket.
You can make dowels yourself using a hand router and drill.
To get started we need square bars, with a cross section of 0.5-1 mm. more required diameter dowels For example, for making dowels with a diameter of 10 mm. , bars with a cross section of 11/11 mm are suitable. , or 10.5/10.5 mm. .
You can round the edges of the workpieces manual router, installed “in the table”. We place the cutter under the rounding and set the height to the cross section of the bars.
The cutter should cut off less than half of the block, there is no need to be greedy.
To hold the dowel while working, comb-shaped clamps are useful.
On a planed strip, cut the end at an angle and make cuts one after another, like a comb.
We fix the clamps to the router table with clamps at the entry of the part. We go through each workpiece on the router from all four sides.
As you can see, it doesn’t have a perfectly round cross-section, but we don’t need that. We simply prepared the material for further work.
For clean processing dowels to the required diameter, you need to make a small device. We take a planed block of hardwood and make a jig.
Drill from the edge side through holes to hold the workpiece. The hole has two diameters, the entrance one is 12 mm. and output 10 mm. . An expanded entrance is needed to install the primary workpiece, and the exit is exactly the diameter of the dowel.
We cut the upper part of the block at an angle so that part of the hole is exposed on the cut plane large diameter. On the cutting area, place a wide, sharp chisel at an angle and fix it together with the block with clamps or a vice.
We clamp the workpieces, slightly rounded on the router, at one end into the drill chuck, insert the other end into the inlet hole, start the drill and pass through, pressing the block inward.
The drill with the dowel must be held exactly in the direction of the hole channel.
You may first need to adjust the height and installation angle of the chisel to the exact specified diameter. But then we will be able to make any number of identical, perfectly accurate dowels in diameter.
In this way, you can make dowels of different diameters, but for each diameter you will need a separate block with the necessary holes.
Idea from woodgears.ca
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