How to cover an installation with plasterboard

Hi all! Today I want to tell you how I decorated the toilet at home: although the toilet and installation took up a lot of space, drywall came to the rescue again. Initially, I was happy with the work of the bathroom, but the appearance upset me. When I was doing the next renovation, I decided to take care of stylish design. I bought an installation, spent money on high-quality plumbing fixtures, and now instead of an abundance of pipes and a cistern, there’s just a button on the wall. Let me tell you how to properly cover a toilet installation with plasterboard.

However, despite easy installation such a detail, covering the installation with plasterboard can create difficulties, because you need to mount the toilet somewhere else, which requires solid foundation. In fact, there is nothing complicated, you just need to adjust the finishing technology using the frame in accordance with the current conditions.

What is a toilet installation

What is a toilet installation and what are its advantages compared to traditional bowls?

It's all about the device, because this design is a system hidden in the wall that ensures the operation of the device; only the bowl attached to the plasterboard wall is visible.

This element consists of a steel frame on which the tank is fixed; it is additionally equipped with retractable rods that regulate the height, a water drain outlet and a panel for fastening. This entire device can be easily placed in the space behind the wall.

This compactness is ensured by the shape and features of the cistern. It is flat, and the plastic housing is enclosed in an insulating shell to prevent condensation. From the entire structure, only the button for draining water from the container remains externally. In addition, such a device has a huge margin of safety and is designed for a load of up to 400 kg!

What are the benefits of using the installation? The main thing is compactness, because the rather large structure that ensures the functionality of the device is hidden, and the bowl is moved towards the wall. But, in addition to saving space, such an orientation of the toilet in space makes cleaning easier, opening access to all areas of the walls and floors. However, in order to obtain the proper quality, it is worth following the appropriate technological rules and standards, as well as select the necessary material.

Covering a toilet installation with plasterboard: all the nuances

To hide the installation in the wall, plasterboard based on a frame made of metal profiles is most suitable. Therefore, you will need appropriate materials, as well as a set of drywall tools.

Plasterboard for covering the installation

It is known that plasterboard panels come in three main types, which should be used for finishing surfaces in certain conditions. For finishing the walls of the bathroom, due to the specifics of the room - high humidity, a material is required that can withstand such impacts.

It would be ideal to use a moisture-resistant type of plasterboard to finish the toilet installation. It has a green color on the front surface.

Its peculiarity is that, in addition to gypsum, there are antiseptic additives inside as a filler that prevent the formation of fungus and mold in high humidity, and also preventing intensive accumulation of water inside the casing.

With additional finishing ( decorative plaster, tiles, PVC panels) acquire excellent waterproof characteristics. By strength moisture resistant drywall not inferior to other analogues.

Profiles for installation

To assemble the frame on the wall for finishing the installation with plasterboard, it is strongly recommended to use only a metal profile with a high-quality zinc anti-corrosion coating. Usage wooden slats for assembling the base is unacceptable due to the specifics of the room (humidity). Two types of profiles are required: guides (marked with the letters UD) and rack-mount (designated CD).

Products are marked with Latin letters according to the Knauff company designation system; you can also find domestic abbreviations PN (guide profile), PP (ceiling profile) and PS (rack-mount).

To attach frame elements to load-bearing walls and to each other, appropriate hardware will be required.

Installation fasteners for the toilet

Such materials can be divided into two groups:

for fixing plasterboard sheathing;
assembly and installation fasteners for the frame.

In the first case, drywall screws with a length of at least 18-20 mm and a thickness of 4.6 mm are used. Such parameters are necessary to ensure that the tip is screwed in at least 5 mm into the profile, followed by reliable fixation of the sheet.

Screws must have an anti-corrosion coating. The frame is assembled using two types of fasteners: dowels - nails and small metal screws (the so-called bugs or fleas). The first guide bases are connected to the load-bearing walls. And the second type of hardware provides connection metal parts between themselves.

Another element of the frame is direct hangers. These are metal perforated plates that additionally secure assembled structure to the walls, due to which greater rigidity is achieved.

However, before purchasing necessary materials, it is worth planning and marking future design hidden installation.

Installation of the frame of a hidden installation for further finishing with plasterboard

Initially, it is worth carrying out rough finishing work load-bearing walls, and also check the quality of communication lines, because after finishing is completed, full access will be possible only after dismantling the entire gypsum plasterboard structure.

When everything is ready, you can begin assembling the frame base for sewing the installation into drywall.

The finished base can be sheathed. Watch the video for the process of installing the installation and covering it.

In fact, the finishing technology using gypsum plasterboard is practically no different from the standard one. It is important to know that when covering hidden plumbing, a double layer of drywall is used!

First of all, the sheet is installed directly on the installation. You first need to make holes in it for the mounting pins. Installation of drywall is ensured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 250-300 mm. Moreover, the caps are slightly sunk into the surface without damaging the cardboard of the sheet. It is worth considering that drywall is also attached to the installation frame, for which you need to drill holes for self-tapping screws in the steel corner.
After installing the main panel, others are attached. The sheets are placed with a small gap of up to 3 mm. From the floor and ceiling 5-10 mm.

After covering, you can begin finishing work. In some cases, it is possible to cover the installation with plasterboard in the form of a box made using frame technology.

Finishing of an installation covered with plasterboard

The created surfaces will have to be prepared for further finishing. Especially if you plan to use tiles on plasterboard as cladding.

First of all, the joints between the plasterboard sheets are sealed. To do this, a putty mixture is prepared, which is used to coat the gaps, and a sickle mesh is glued on top. Then such areas are covered again thin layer plaster (1-2 mm);
When the joints are dry, they are rubbed down. The entire surface of the drywall is primed and puttied with a layer gypsum mixture thickness 1-2 mm;
After drying, the surfaces are rubbed with a grater.

If the installation was enclosed in a plasterboard box, then its edges are additionally strengthened plaster corners. And the finishing process is the same as the walls. This scheme can be changed depending on the conditions in which the installation is installed. So that the installation of plumbing and its finishing does not create problems during the work process.

Designers' quest for improvement appearance toilets, the creation of stylish bathrooms contributed to the popularization of block and frame structures with a hanging bowl.

The installation itself is not cheap, and you will also have to pay extra for its installation. Therefore, many home craftsmen hone their plumbing skills and carry out installation work on one's own. Agree, would it be nice to save money by attaching the toilet to the installation yourself?

We will help you resolve this issue. In the article we describe in detail the device, operating principle and types of structures, and also provide step-by-step technology and photo instructions for installing the toilet.

If the view external elements installation depends only on the imagination of the designer, then its arrangement internal structure can be divided into 2 options: frame and block.

Image gallery

The drain button frame is secured with latches and can be easily removed. Underneath there is a hole for connecting a water hose with a compact tap. Within this “installation” window on the front wall of the tank there is and, which can be unscrewed from the tank by hand and repaired without dismantling the box.

Myth No. 3. A wall-hung toilet takes up minimal space.

Block and frame installations require an additional 20-25 cm of bathroom space. Therefore, these structures take up even more space than a floor-mounted toilet. The only option for reducing space is to place the installation in a wall niche.

Myth No. 4. There are no spare parts for block installations.

The sizes of components are standardized by most manufacturers, because repairable models have priority when purchasing. In plumbing stores, picking up a broken part will not be difficult. In addition, you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step installation of the installation and toilet

Installing a plumbing installation yourself is not difficult. The main danger is that the joint leaks sewer pipe and toilet pipe after final installation.

To avoid such problems, you must follow all the rules step-by-step installation installations. Next, installation schemes for toilets with various designs will be considered.

Required Tools

To install the installation and attach the toilet to it, the following tools and materials are required:

Screwdriver.
Adjustable wrench.
Hammer drill with drills.
Pliers.
Dowels and bolts.
Hammer.
Level.
Roulette with marker.
Silicone.

The minimum tools and materials that will be useful when installing the installation itself are listed. When installing the box, other devices are needed, but this work is best left to professionals.

Installing a block installation

There are two ways to install a block installation:

In a specially prepared niche in the wall.
On a concrete slab, which is then covered with plasterboard.

Regardless of the type of installation, the list of steps to assemble the installation remains the same.

Step one. Applying markings in the bathroom. In small narrow rooms The toilet is installed along its axis, and in large ones it is better to place the bowl along the axis of the drain.

First you need to draw a line with a marker or chalk from corner to corner of the room along the wall where you plan to install the installation. Then, along the axis of installation of the bowl, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the first, using a construction corner.

Step two. Formation of attachment points. In accordance with the intended axis of installation of the bowl, the locations for fixing the block structure are determined. If the axis of the bowl and the wall are distorted, wooden or plastic gaskets to achieve an angle of 90 degrees.

In loose concrete slabs, preference is given to fastening with dowels, which provide maximum contact area between the fasteners and the wall

It is necessary to center the location of the dowels relative to the middle drain hole toilet. If the distance between the mounting points of the block is 60 cm, then each hole for the dowel should be drilled at a distance of 30 cm from the axis of the bowl.

After marking, you need to drill holes with a drill and insert the fasteners supplied with the product into them.

Step three. Fixation of block structure. The drain tank is screwed on with screws or anchor bolts to Wall. After this, the structure is supplied water hose, and connect the pipes that will connect to the toilet bowl.

Inside the “mounting” window is usually located the included flexible hose, into which water is supplied through an adapter with a tap

Step four. Screwing in the bowl support pins. After fixing the block mechanism, the toilet bowl is attached to it. Insert into the holes for its fastening metal rods and the places for their attachment on the wall are determined so that the height of the toilet seat is 40-48 cm.

The rods are made of ultra-strong, rigid steel and can withstand loads of up to 450 kg without deformation. Change their location later without dismantling decorative box will not work

After this, the toilet is removed and holes are drilled in the concrete slab under the rods, which are then fixed in the wall with fasteners.

Step five. Installation of sewer drain. The toilet bowl is hung on support pins and a pipe for draining water from the tank is inserted into it. After this, the sewerage scheme is determined and its installation is carried out with rigid fixation of the 110-mm outlet pipe.

Rigid fixation of the sewer line is mandatory, because when installing the toilet bowl, the pipe should not change its position

Step six. Covering a block installation and installing a toilet bowl. After installing the sewer system, the toilet bowl is removed and decorative cladding of the entire plumbing structure with tiles or moisture-resistant plasterboard begins.

The drain button and its frame are installed in last resort. But the operation of the drain mechanism should be tested only after the sealant has dried at the sewer joint.

When the cladding work is completed, the drain button is installed, and the bowl is placed on the drain pipes and metal support pins. After this, the toilet is attached to the wall with nuts.

Instead of lining the drain hole of a block structure, support rods and sewers, they are sometimes filled with concrete.

When mixing concrete for pouring, it is necessary to buy only certified materials, and also follow the technology, because the structure will experience heavy loads

To do this, after the fifth step, a common wooden formwork is installed around these structures, and its internal volume is filled with concrete. 5-7 days after pouring, the formwork is removed, and the toilet bowl is docked with support pins rigidly fixed in concrete, sewer pipes and a cistern drain.

Installation of a toilet with frame installation

The installation of a frame installation with a toilet can be carried out in any place in the bathroom. Single-frame structures are attached simultaneously to the wall and floor, and installations with a double frame can be installed in the middle of the room in a special partition.

The installation of both design options differs only in the location of the metal frame and the shape of the decorative cladding, so their installation will be discussed in one step-by-step instruction.

Step one. Assembly of the frame structure. Installation of the installation begins with the assembly of the metal frame. To compensate for uneven floors and walls, the frame design includes retractable legs. After adjusting the position of the frame according to the level, the legs are rigidly fixed in the required position.

To adjust the distance between the wall and the frame, there is special mechanism. The position of the foot must be fixed firmly to avoid possible distortion of the frame

The installation is applied to the installation site, and a marker marks the places where it is necessary to drill holes for dowels.

Step two. Installing the tank on a metal frame. The height of the water tank can also be adjusted, but not in all installation models. The recommended height of the release button is 1 m from the floor surface.

The height of the drain button is not of fundamental importance for the operation of the mechanism, but surveys indicate that 100 cm is the best option

Based on this parameter, the level of location of the drain tank inside the metal frame is selected. Fittings for draining water are installed together with the tank.

The frame structure often has a height-adjustable horizontal metal strip. It has holes or clips for attaching the support rods of the toilet bowl, pipes for draining water from the tank and sewerage.

Step three. Sewerage installation. A 110 mm sewer pipe is laid to the frame.

Step four. Fastening the frame structure. Holes are drilled to attach the metal frame, and then it is screwed with screws or anchor bolts to the wall and floor at the designated points. Optimal distance from the frame frame to the wall – 140-195 mm.

It will not be possible to screw the frame close to the wall, because a sewer pipe measuring 110 mm must still be placed behind the metal legs

The sewer pipe is fixed to the frame using available fasteners.

After the frame installation is completely assembled, it is necessary to ensure that the supporting heights of the pins and pipes are adjusted correctly. To do this, a toilet bowl is hung on the structure.

Step five. Checking for leaks. Connects to the drain tank water pipe and the tap opens. After filling the tank, a test drain is performed. If there are no leaks, the toilet bowl is removed and the installation begins.

Step six. Forming a box around a frame installation.

There are two ways to close a metal frame:

sew up with plasterboard;
cover with bricks and tiles.

Before insulating the installation, it is necessary to close its pipes with plugs or plastic bags. For cladding it is necessary to use moisture-resistant plasterboard sheet 12.5 mm thick. The box will be decorative element, which bears no supporting load.

The front panel of the box must be reinforced at the back with a metal profile so that if you accidentally press the drywall with your hand, it will not burst or fall through

When covering, it is necessary to provide in advance the formation of holes for the pipes and support pins of the toilet bowl.

Step seven. Attaching the toilet to the installation frame. You can begin installing the toilet bowl immediately after plastering and painting. plasterboard box. If metal carcass lined with bricks and tiles, then the toilet should be installed on it 10 days after completion of the work.

Between the bowl and the wall, instead of silicone, you can place a 1-2 mm thick insulation gasket to prevent cracking of the ceramic coating under load

Before placing the toilet on the support pins, it is necessary to lubricate the rubber gaskets of the sewer pipes and the drain hole of the tank with silicone. Also, a layer of sealant is applied to the back wall of the toilet at a distance of 5 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter of contact with the wall.

The bowl is fixed to the wall with two bolts screwed onto metal pins. After a day, you can perform a test drain to check the operation of the entire installation.

Block and frame installations do not necessarily require the installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl. It can be installed classically on the floor. Installation diagram floor-standing toilet differs from the above methods only in the location of the fastening elements and the sewer pipe.

When installing the toilet on the floor, it is fixed both to supporting horizontal rods and screwed to the floor. Bowl manufacturers choose the type of fastening based on the shape of the product.

When fixing the toilet to the floor, it is necessary to mark and drill in floor tiles two holes for mounting. After covering the installation with a box, the toilet bowl is mounted to the sewer and cistern drain pipes, and then screwed to the floor using the existing fasteners.

After final fixation of the toilet, it is necessary to coat the perimeter of the base silicone sealant to prevent water and dirt from getting under the bowl

You can additionally use it to connect the sewer pipe and the toilet bowl.

The frame must be bolted in at least 4 places.

The water supply pipe must have a separate shut-off valve in a convenient location for access.

Following the proposed instructions will protect the apartment from flooding and prevent the need to dismantle the decorative box during the first years of operation of the toilet.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The videos will allow you to put together a complete picture in your head in just a few minutes. puzzle scheme assembly of toilet installations. After viewing them, the step-by-step instructions described above will become more understandable and meaningful.

Frame installation assembly process:

Installing a block installation in a niche:

Attaching the toilet to the installation frame:

The proposed step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet with frame and block installations take several hours of work, if you do not take into account the time to create a decorative box.

The essence of the installation comes down to smooth and strong fastening of the frame, connecting the pipes and docking the toilet bowl with the flush block. This can be accomplished by every business person who knows how to handle the necessary tools.

Do you have practical skills in attaching a toilet to an installation? Share your own installation experience or ask questions about the topic of the article. The comment block is located below.

Installations – modern way installation of toilets is increasingly used when renovating a bathroom. The installation system for wall-hung toilets consists of a metal frame from which the bowl is suspended, and all supply communications and systems that ensure the functionality of the device are hidden behind decorative cladding. Most often, the box for installing a toilet is lined with plasterboard and lined with ceramic tiles. Let's consider general principle And step by step instructions, how to properly sheathe the installation.

In addition to the installation itself (frame and all necessary components), for hidden installation wall hung toilet You will need galvanized profiles to construct the frame and moisture-resistant plasterboard to cover it. Often the casing of the installation is part general finishing bathroom. In such cases, complex frame systems are created, so it is impossible to do without the involvement of a specialist. It is quite simple to carry out the cladding directly to the installation. You can do this yourself, which will require the following tools:

Bubble or laser level, tape measure, square and marker for marking.
Screwdriver.
Drill, drill bits for concrete and metal.
Metal scissors.
Knife for cutting plasterboard, sandpaper for rubbing corners.

Note! Before installing and covering the installation with plasterboard, rough work must be carried out in the bathroom: the walls must be prepared and leveled, communications laid and checked for leaks.

Performing markup

When all preparatory work completed and the structure for concealed mounting of the toilet is installed, make markings for attaching the frame:

In the example under consideration, the top sheathing is done to a minimum, so the mark is placed flush with the metal frame. If not laser level To align in one plane as indicated, the line is transferred using a square or a building level.
Then the plane of the front frame post is transferred to the walls.

Frame installation

Assembling a simple frame is also not difficult even for novice craftsmen:

Note! To attach the jumpers to the metal frame of the installation, a small section of the guide profile is first screwed to it using self-tapping screws and a drill.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Now all that remains is to sheathe frame structure drywall. General technology similar to the cladding of others frame systems, but is produced in two layers: this is necessary to enhance the strength characteristics of the cladding.

First, two strips are cut out of drywall and mounted on the top “shelf.”

Then the first layer of the front casing is installed, in which holes are pre-cut for mounting and connecting the toilet, as well as for the flush mechanism. Fastening to the profiles is done with ordinary black self-tapping screws, and to the frame - with self-tapping screws and a drill.

When the first sheet of drywall is secured, prepare the second sheet. Holes are also cut out in it, after which it is installed on top of the first gypsum board. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws of suitable length, and care must be taken not to get into the heads of previous hardware.

How to make a collapsible box

If it is necessary to provide access to communications, there is interesting way make a collapsible box from plasterboard and tiles. The general technology for constructing a collapsible structure is no different from cladding the installation:

First, a profile frame is assembled around a metal frame.
Then blanks from the plasterboard sheet are measured and cut out to cover the frame.
Then the plasterboard sheathing is attached to the frame, which is performed at several points: usually two self-tapping screws are screwed in from each edge of the gypsum board, top and bottom. When the casing is “stuck”, stick on it ceramic tiles. At the same time, during tiling, the screws securing the plasterboard sheet are unscrewed. First, the tile is glued from below, the lower screws are first unscrewed, after the glue sets, the fixation is made through the tile: to do this, a hole is drilled in it, into which the self-tapping screw is then screwed, then the upper part of the tile is glued. The screw caps are then closed with plastic plugs that match the color of the tile.

This design of the “screen” allows, if necessary, to remove decorative plugs, unscrew the hardware and carefully remove the front panel and thus provide free access to the communications hidden behind the cladding.

Note! To prevent the tile from cracking when fastening through it, the screws are very carefully tightened by hand with a screwdriver.

Installation dimensions

When choosing and determining the installation location of the installation, attention is paid and its dimensions are taken into account. This is especially important if you decide to install the installation in a niche in the wall. The dimensions of the product depend on the type of structure. The main parameters depending on the type of installation are as follows.

Frame products have the following dimensions:

height: 80–140 cm;
width: 50–60 cm;
depth: 15–30 cm.

The dimensions of block-type structures are as follows:

height: 80–120 cm;
width: 50 cm;
depth: 10–15 cm.

The installation fits perfectly into any modern interior and allows you to save bathroom space. In order for the structure to last a long time and not fail, during installation and cladding of the installation you must follow the rules and recommendations of the manufacturer.

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Let's see how else you can make a box. IN in this case we make a box for the installation and at the same time we make a box for the pipes that go to the tulip and the bathtub.

In order to assemble a box for installation, we will need moisture-resistant plasterboard, a 27*28 profile (we will make a frame from it), metal/metal screws No. 13, plasterboard/metal screws 3.5 * 25 mm, dowel-nail 6 * 40. Since the box needs to be made as narrow as possible, I will use a 27*28 profile.
Our bathroom has already been prepared, waterproofing has been done (developer's requirements), pipes have been removed, and the installation has been installed.

Let's make a box.

1. To sew up the installation, it is necessary to align the profile so that the drywall, when screwed to the profile, is flush with the frame of the installation. To do this, using a level and a square along the installation frame, we draw a drawing of the lines along which the profiles will be installed.

2. Using the applied markings, we attach the 27*28 profile to the wall. We attach it to a 6*40 dowel-nail.

Fasten the profile, check with a level

3. After the profile is screwed to the wall, we extend the profiles from it to the installation body. The profile is fastened together using metal/metal screws No. 13. In this case, I did not screw the profile itself to the installation, but only attached it to each other. If the profile needs to be screwed to the installation to make the box more rigid, then you need to screw it with the same metal/metal screws only with a drill. Such self-tapping screws are drilled into metal up to 5-6 mm thick.

4. Now we are making a box that will cover the pipes going to the tulip and the bathtub. We screw the 27*28 profile as close as possible to the pipes both on the wall and on the floor.

5. Since this box will pass between the wall and the tulip leg, its width with the glued tiles should not be more than 8 cm. To achieve such a narrow box, we do it as shown in the photo.

The profile protrudes only slightly beyond the pipes
From above, where possible, we attach the profile to the drywall

The invention of drywall revolutionized finishing works. Plasticity, lightness, environmental friendliness, fire resistance and ease of installation have provided the material with well-deserved popularity. Drywall in the country, in the apartment, production premises will help you quickly and correctly make repairs yourself.

A plumbing installation system is a design that provides the opportunity to do hidden installation appliances, when only the toilet and drain panel remain in sight. Everything else - the frame, the cistern, the pipes and the hose - is hidden in the wall.

The plumbing installation system also guarantees reliable fastening of the wall-hung toilet, thanks to which the device can withstand a load of up to 400 kg.

The main advantage of a wall-hung toilet is its compactness. Compared to a floor-standing counterpart with a bulky cistern, the installation structure is 2 times smaller, so it can be installed in a wall covered with gypsum board.

After such installation of a wall-hung toilet, free space remains underneath, making cleaning easier.

Sheathing the installation with plasterboard is done using different materials, but the simplest of them is double GKLV.

To properly install the installation yourself, you first need to check the serviceability of the installation system. To do this, fill the toilet bowl, open the valve, fill the tank with water and drain it.

If there are no leaks anywhere, you can safely proceed to the sheathing:

Sheathing the installation with plasterboard begins from the front. The marking is carried out according to the template, which is shown on the packaging of wall-hung plumbing fixtures or in the instructions for the system or toilet.
A restrictive cuff and a protective cover, which protects the tank from foreign objects, are installed in the front cutout of the tank. Now you can do the cladding.
The installation must be covered with plasterboard on each free side.
First, you need to drill holes in the system frame (you can use self-tapping screws with a drill tip), and the casing is secured through them. After laying to the system frame, the drywall is fixed with screws.
On the sides and top, it is necessary to provide an overlap from the frame stand of 3 cm or more, then a wall profile is attached to the wall and the gypsum board, on which the side fragments and the top are fixed.

How to sheathe the inside of a house

To cover the inside of a house with plasterboard yourself, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

profiles (ceiling and guides);
suspensions for them;
plasterboard sheets;
scissors or grinder for metal;
knife for cutting drywall;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
screws and dowels;
drill or hammer drill;
marker, level, plumb line and tape measure.

A master class on covering the inside of a house with plasterboard looks like this:

First you need to make drawings of the type of walls and ceiling indicating the dimensions of the planes.
Then they prepare a calculation of the amount of gypsum boards for cladding. When making calculations, it is necessary to avoid horizontal gypsum board joints; it is best to place them in a checkerboard pattern.
Next, mark the walls, floor and ceiling for the guides metal profiles. The plumb line and level must be constantly monitored to ensure that the structures are positioned correctly vertically and horizontally.
Using a grinder, the guide profiles are cut into the necessary parts, which must be secured with dowels in increments of 60 cm.
In accordance with the plan, a guide profile for the ceiling is marked. Attach the ceiling profile starting from the wall.
After marking all the vertical profiles on the floor, you need to project all the marks onto the ceiling. For control you need a plumb line and a level.
Now determine the position of the hangers with which the vertical profile is secured to the wall. To do this, the ceiling profile must be placed in the guide, aligned with the marks on the ceiling and floor, and a suspension must be applied. There should be a vertical gap of 80cm between the hangers. Holes are drilled using a puncher or drill and the hangers are secured in them using dowels.
The next step is to attach it to the hangers and guides. vertical profiles. The center of the profile is aligned with the mark on the guide. Align the profile with a thread stretched horizontally.
You can proceed to fixing the horizontal profiles. They are attached to pieces from the guides or to special fasteners - “crabs”.
When the frame is secured, you can cover the house with plasterboard. The thickening of the first sheet is cut off along the edge and placed in the corner.
Correctly position the first gypsum board sheet so that it covers half the width of the profile.
Fix the drywall with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 cm at the edges and 20-30 cm in other places. To prevent the edges from breaking off, the screws are screwed in with an indentation.

Using this method, all whole sheets are secured, then inserts are cut out from the scraps and secured.

It’s easy to cut gypsum board correctly: the master draws a cut line on the sheet and breaks it along it on the work table or on the edge of the beam.

After the entire surface is covered, the seams and screw heads are puttied with a special putty for working with drywall. The minimum width of the seams that remain during sheathing should be 5 mm.

How to cover a staircase

Craftsmen choose to cover stairs with plasterboard in houses where the steps are mounted so that the railings are built into the wall or where it is necessary to hide a stair ledge or flight into the interior.

In order to sheathe the staircase of a gypsum board house, at the first stage a metal frame is prepared according to the dimensions of the future sheathing of the span.

When fastening the frame and gypsum board with screws, if cracks and irregularities appear, they must be eliminated immediately to avoid deformation of the cladding.

stairs ( outer side staircase opening) is usually decorated with a balustrade. If the interior allows, you can do the cladding with your own hands and without a balustrade, closing it perforated corners both from below and from the side.

To avoid moisture getting on the stairs and subsequent deformation of the gypsum board joints and internal corners glued with non-woven fabric.

If the steps are wooden or covered with laminate, drywall will help with additional sound insulation.

Durable material can withstand any decor – lamps, paintings, etc. “Windows” look great - niches built into the staircase from the inside where you can place accessories or a collection.

How to make a ledge

Tools and materials:

aluminum profile;
putty knife;
drywall;
drill;
self-tapping screws;
roulette;
plumb and level;
pencil;
Bulgarian;
special glue;
reinforcing tape;
putty.

Step-by-step instruction:

Where do serious repairs begin? Of course, from design. First you need to choose a place and take measurements, taking into account the thickness of the frame and gypsum board. If the niche is intended for household appliances In order to design it correctly, it is necessary to take into account the space for free air circulation and the laying of communications.
Now they calculate the amount of material, purchasing it with a small margin.
Prepare a drawing of a niche at any scale and transfer it to the wall actual sizes. Mark the place where the frame is attached. Don't forget to design space for cable, lighting and other communications.
Then you need to set aside the distance for the ledge and make markings on the floor for the profile and gypsum board.
Using a plumb line, the resulting markings are transferred to the ceiling. Assemble the frame from the profile, securing the guides according to the markings.
Using a grinder, cut the profile into the required pieces and attach it with self-tapping screws to the vertical posts opposite the horizontal markings.
Mount the base of the niche, connecting the wall with the profile vertical posts and checking the result with the level.
When the assembly of the frame is completed, they proceed to covering it with plasterboard. They begin installing the sheets from the sides, securing them with self-tapping screws.
Then the openings are measured again and pieces of plasterboard are cut out. The plasterboard installation can be secured to the base wall with a special adhesive.
The remaining parts are secured to the front part of the frame. After installation, finishing is carried out. To hide the joints, you need to lay down reinforcing tape and cover it with putty. Then a sickle mesh is laid and dried. After drying, apply a second layer of putty and decorative layer(wallpaper, paint).