Is this a chisel or chisel? the right tool, which is always useful when working with wood. Especially if you. However, during operation, its blade quickly becomes dull and the efficiency of work drops significantly. You can restore functionality by “sharpening” - the simplest method is “emery”, but not all of us have it. Why go far here, there isn’t even a whetstone for sharpening knives. Then a fair question arises: how to sharpen it then? Calm down, there is one old-fashioned and very cheap way …
The chisel consists of durable metal, you can sharpen it with a “knife sharpening stone” if you have one at home. However, many simply do not have it. But wait, what is a block - essentially a very strong stone composition, simply a rough stone that can grind down metal and at the same time very slowly collapse. Then let's think about what can replace it?
What to replace the block with?
Honestly, with anything, even a brick. However, the surface must be rough and durable. By the way, you can also sharpen it on asphalt. But I didn’t go outside, my balcony is made of very strong concrete blocks, and there is also a slab on the floor. It is about them that you can focus.
What was the chisel like before?
To be honest, it was very worn out, because they simply worked on it mercilessly, and by the way, they wanted to throw it away. But I revived her! Here's a photo.
It can be seen that the main incisor is not only blunted, but also broken in the middle - dented small area. It’s simply impossible to work with such a tool when I wanted to “continue” wooden door locked, she simply crushed - but did not “cut”. Of course, sharpening with emery would be done in five minutes - but there’s nowhere to get it. So, let's start sharpening at home.
STEP 1
First you need to remove the rough layer, so to speak, that is, remove the “groove” in the middle of the blade. We just take a chisel, place the blade at an angle towards the stone (in my case it’s a balcony wall and slab) and start “rubbing” with effort.
Yes, it’s really difficult, and you need to rub hard and quickly, but the effect will not take long to arrive; after 20 minutes, the blade has ground down and the “groove” has gone away.
Then I turned the blade over and also rubbed it on the stone so that all the “bulls” went away from the back. Sharpening may be enough for many here, because essentially we have removed the crumpled layer! But they did it roughly, and the knife is not so sharp, so you need to fill the “mirror”.
STEP 2
You will need “sandpaper” (sandpaper), just don’t say you don’t have it! As a last resort, it is sold in any hardware store; it is a really common product. Buy “zero” fine sandpaper, it will be easier to fill the “mirror” of the chisel. I didn’t have a small one, so I’ll have to clean it up; I have a “two”. We also begin to sharpen on the surface, first on one side.
Then on the other.
As a result, we get a mirror on the incisor, although not as we would like (the sandpaper is rough), but it will still work. The chisel knife is already sharp.
For a “full mirror”, you can also move it along the leather belt (preferably along), then you can look into the blade. BUT for me this is not important - I’m not going to the exhibition!
I tried to cut through a wooden door, everything works great - it just cuts through, and does not crush!
Thus, we sharpened the chisel, with our own hands and at home, without any complex equipment. Need a little force, have a piece sandpaper(not necessarily big) and that's it.
Video version of the article (watch)
It’s so easy and simple, I think it will be useful to many. Read our construction blog.
- Materials and assembly rules
- Assembling a sharpening machine
- Edit
If you are passionate about carpentry and make wood products, then you know how uncomfortable and even dangerous a dull tool can be. It is advisable to have sharp cutters on hand, for sharpening which you can make a special device yourself.
On a sharpening machine, with the proper approach, in 10–15 minutes, depending on the hardness of the steel, you get a sharp tool. The process may take a little longer if the cutting edge is significantly damaged. Once straightened, the chisel will cut wood easily without the risk of damaging the surface being worked on or, worse, causing injury.
Advantages of a homemade sharpener
There are devices on sale designed for sharpening chisels and plane knives. They differ in type and material of manufacture. These can be synthetic or diamond shards, natural minerals and other mechanical objects. For carpentry workshops they often purchase special electrical machines vertical or horizontal design. However, sandpaper is in no way inferior to all these advertised devices. It does an excellent job of grinding down metal, giving it thin and clear edges, and its cost is extremely low.
Materials and assembly rules
An excellent result is guaranteed by black sandpaper, the abrasive side of which consists of silicon carbide. It is suitable for wet and dry grinding, and due to the hardness of the material, which is superior in similar parameters to garnet or aluminum oxide, it copes with the task better and wears out longer.
Sharpening a chisel at home requires sheets of paper with different grain sizes (from 100 to 600 units). The final grinding of the cutting edges is carried out with a fine abrasive powder, which can be replaced with a kitchen cleaner containing feldspar, soda or oxalic acid.
To ensure comfortable work on sharpening tools for wood carving, the master needs to create an even base from thick plywood or MDF, on which sheets of emery will be laid. To enhance the adhesion between the paper and the smooth base, you can spray the plywood with water.
No matter how sharp the vision of a craftsman may be, it is difficult to complete the job without the help of a magnifying glass. Therefore, it is better to play it safe and purchase a simple lens with eight times magnifying power. Such an optical device does not obscure the light and makes it possible to see most of the flaws in the cutting tool.
When working with sandpaper, it is necessary to maintain the sharpening angle, which is not easy to do manually without special device. This problem is solved wooden device, providing control over the process at all its stages. With its help, the blade will be fixed at a given angle, deviations will be excluded. In this case, the chamfer of the product will acquire an optimal plane. In this way, it is possible to ensure uniform abrasion of the sandpaper when performing movements in opposite directions.
Assembling a sharpening machine
Below in the picture you can see a device used to sharpen carpentry chisels and plane blades with a length of 75 mm at an angle of 25°. Such drawings are also suitable for assembling a similar machine for straightening blades at different angles. Sharpening semicircular chisels is performed using other equipment.
The beginning of assembly involves sawing out the base from hardwood with a margin of length. We recommend focusing on workpiece dimensions of approximately 13x76x255 mm. At a distance of 19 mm from the back of the workpiece, it is necessary to cut out a tongue and groove (5x45 mm - DxW), for which a groove-forming cutter is installed in the sawing unit. Then, using a longitudinal cutting disc, a bevel is sawed at an angle of 25°, and the workpiece itself is fixed with double-sided tape to the load-bearing surface. Now a vertical cut sets the final length of the product to 190 mm.
To make a trolley holder, you will need a workpiece measuring 19x45x255 mm, on which a bevel is sawed off at an angle of 25° and vertically cut to a length of 190 mm. Then with her bottom side At a distance of 32 mm from each edge, two holes are drilled with a recess for the nut. After this, a groove 102x1.5 mm (WxD) is made with a groove disk, in which a chisel or chisel will be fixed at a right angle.
On next stage The clamp is cut out and holes are made for screws in the middle of the workpiece at a distance of 32 mm from each edge. The handle of the device is glued to the clamp, and after drying adhesive composition carried out final assembly. So that the sharpening machine can function normally and the holder slides without unnecessary effort, a special wax composition is applied to the tongue of the base.
The process of sharpening on a homemade machine
To sharpen a dull tool, you need to place the device on coarse sandpaper. Cutting part The chisel is installed in the holder under the clamping mechanism with the chamfer down, after which the nuts are tightened to secure the tool tightly. The blade should be perpendicular to the working plane.
When you start sharpening the cutter, pay attention: characteristic marks will be visible on the sandpaper, so you need to move the structure so as to continue the process on the untouched part of the material. The work is carried out until the cutting segment acquires a uniform matte surface. Before changing the sandpaper to a finer abrasive, walk around a couple of times. reverse side blades on coarse paper, removing any burrs. Each time you change the abrasive, repeat the process until the sharpened tool becomes optimally sharp.
Edit
Sharpening the chisel is completed by straightening it using leather belt, grated with GOI paste. The cutting edge is polished to mirror shine. The paste can be replaced with a kitchen cleaner, which does the job just as well as the paste. The powder is poured onto a flat wooden surface. This will come in handy manual machine, which need to be sharpened according to the previously discussed principle.
Device for sharpening semicircular chisels
Sharpening a semicircular chisel is performed on wooden block with an edge processed to the shape of the tool. During the work you will need:
- silicon block;
- plywood;
- abrasive powder;
- leather;
- sandpaper of different grits (400, 800, 1000, 2000).
You need to start the process by wetting the bar in a soap solution, and then you can start working by pressing the chamfer to the touchstone and performing sideways movements (as in the photo below).
After the formation of a burr, take wooden blank with a rounded edge on which sandpaper is glued (replace it, gradually moving from coarse to fine abrasive).
At the final stage, the chisel is polished and straightened using leather. When the blade acquires a smooth, sharp edge, it is necessary to check its cutting ability.
Sculptural composition, work by Novoselov A.V.
For all types of carvings, various elements Decorating your home, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts requires a special tool.
Tools for carving can be distinguished as main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Various electrified household tools and devices based on an electric motor that the master can make himself.
All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can carry out the work smoothly carvings of any complexity.
The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that wood cuts like butter, and it should be kept in perfect condition.
A dull tool crumbles, crushes, and does not cut the wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This ruins your mood and often discourages you from finishing your work. It’s easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool; the drawing turns out clean, precise, and beautiful. By finished product You can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also how and how he performed the work.
Cutting tool
Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.
Bogorodsky knife
Knife-jamb(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0;45°;60°), used for flat-notched, flat-relief, relief, openwork carvings.
Knife-jamb
Knife cutter- used as auxiliary tool For various types threads.
Knife cutter
Straight chisels(sharpening angle 18-20°); used as an auxiliary tool for various types of carvings.
Straight chisel
Semicircular chisels- the main tool used to perform all types of wood carving. There are: - flat (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).
Semi-round chisels
Sameski - cranberries These are chisels with a curved blade which allows, when carving, not to touch the surface being processed with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel and a cranberry-corner. cranberry-semicircular chisel.
Cranberry chisels
Ceramic chisels resemble cool semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2…3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the cross-section of which corresponds to the profile of the tool.
Ceramic chisel
Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to make a V-shaped groove, used to make elements of contour threads.
Corner chisel or Geismus
Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used for sampling various veins when making engravings.
Stichel
Klepiki. The rivets come in the most different sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: sword, leaf and nail. The first two are called: sword rivet and leaf rivet.
They are used in flat-relief and volumetric carvings to clean up the background in hard to reach places.
Rivet-sword, rivet-leaf
Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the shape of their sharpening. It resembles a fingernail to them. The purpose of the marigolds is to clean hard-to-reach places and make elements of staple threads.
Chisel-nail
Spoonmen(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a rod welded to it. Spoons are needed for removal large volume material in recesses and for processing internal walls in the manufacture of dishes.
Spoonmen
Punches and coins- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for embossing backgrounds in flat-relief and relief carvings.
The cutting tool is made of tool steels:
1-carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, are identified by a white beam of sparks with individual stars.
2-Alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened they produce yellow or orange sparks.
3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened they give dark red sparks.
Sharpening and dressing tools
Of great importance for performing high-quality wood carving is correct sharpening tool.
Tool sharpening consists of two stages:
1- chamfering;
2- edits.
1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed using an electric sharpener (see fig.), a sharpener with manual drive or manually on an abrasive stone.
Electric sharpener for sharpening and dressing tools: a - mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement clamp; 2 - movable platform for selecting the sharpening angle; 3 - bolt - vertical movement clamp; c - device for straightening and polishing tools (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.
The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.
Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; c - on corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.
Position of the chisel when sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and flat; 3 - chisel - corner;
When sharpening you must:
Maintain the specified sharpening angle;
Maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be smooth without signs of bending;
Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevented by periodically wetting the instrument in water).
2. Editing. Tool straightening means increasing the cleanliness of blade sharpening, removing burrs, and improving sharpness. Microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), sandpaper, and leather are used for straightening the instrument.
Sharpening the joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -
chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;
b - hand position when working;
For semicircular cutters, a dressing board is made from linden, and transverse grooves are made on its surface for cutters of different sizes (Fig.).
Dressing boards and belts
1 - board with a set of profile bars and touchstones;
2 - straightening board with chisel profiles;
3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.
Before straightening, rub GOI paste into the straightening board. The inner surface of semicircular incisors is adjusted with round wooden rods wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.
A properly sharpened tool must have a given sharpening angle, blade shape, and be free of burrs.
When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.
Literature:
1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.
House carving - M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.
2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.
Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Ekaterinburg: Ural. state forestry engineering univ. 2012.
With the help of a knife we cook food, cut food and do other housework. Therefore, it is very important that the knife blade always remains sharp. Theoretically, there is nothing difficult in sharpening knives, but in practice it turns out that not everyone can sharpen a blade well. To have an idea of what to sharpen knives with and how to do it correctly, we recommend reading our article.
Before you start sharpening a knife, you need to find out what material it is made of. There are several types of knives:
- Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made from an alloy of iron and carbon, easy to sharpen and remain sharp for a long time. Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that the knife blade oxidizes from interaction with food or an acidic environment, due to this, rust and stains appear on the knife, and food acquires a metallic taste. Over time, after plaque forms on the blade, oxidation stops.
- Low carbon knives of stainless steel- made from an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in hardness to carbon steel, so they quickly become dull and require regular sharpening. The advantages include corrosion resistance.
- Knives made of high-carbon stainless steel are a higher class of knives, with a higher carbon content and additions of cobalt or vanadium. Due to the higher quality alloy, this type knives do not require frequent sharpening and are not subject to corrosion.
- Damascus steel knives are mainly made as edged weapons, but there are also kitchen options. Damascus steel knife is a multi-layer blade made of different alloys High Quality. The disadvantages include high cost knives.
- Ceramic knives have gained popularity due to their sharpness and ability to long time don't be dumb. But besides the advantages, Ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which is their fragility when dropped from a height and poor resistance to fracture.
Sharpening tools
Touchstone (sharpening stone)
Sharpening stones are available with different amounts abrasive grains per square millimeter. Therefore, for rough sharpening and finishing grinding, you need to use bars with a minimum and maximum abrasive content. In foreign-made whetstones, information about the number of abrasive grains is on their labeling. Sharpening stones domestic production you have to choose “by eye” or ask the seller which whetstone to use for initial sharpening and which for final sharpening.
Mechanical sharpener
Mechanical sharpeners mainly used for sharpening kitchen knives. Although the sharpening process is quick, the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, for hunting and sporting knives, it is recommended to use other sharpening methods.
Electric sharpener
Modern models electric sharpeners allow you to achieve high quality sharpening due to the built-in function, automatic detection blade angle. The electric sharpener is perfect for both household use and for sharpening knives in catering establishments. The lineup There is a wide range of electric sharpeners, so the price may vary, but if you want your knives to always remain sharp, then buy more “advanced” and expensive models.
Musat
Musat - designed to maintain the sharpness of the knife edge. In shape, the musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musats are included in knife sets, and many owners often confuse them with a tool for fully sharpening a blade. Please note that with the help of musat you can maintain the sharpness of a sharpened knife, but if the knife has become completely dull, you will not be able to sharpen it with musat.
Sharpener "Lansky"
This sharpener is used for sharpening small and medium-sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade at the angle you choose. The Lansky sharpener consists of a rod with a removable touchstone and two corners connected to each other. The corners simultaneously serve as a vice for the knife and a scale for selecting the sharpening angle. The sharpener kit also includes sharpening stones of different grits with ANSI markings.
Sharpening and grinding machines
Sharpening machines are used mainly in production for high-precision sharpening of rotating shaft blades. In addition to high-precision machines, there are abrasive wheels with electric drive and rotating discs for grinding. Sharpening knives on such machines should only be done by an experienced craftsman, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and high temperature heating, with any unsuccessful movement, the knife blade will become unusable.
Do-it-yourself blade sharpening
Sharpening a knife with a whetstone
Sharpening a blade made with a sharpening stone is considered to be of the highest quality, provided, of course, that it was carried out by an experienced craftsman. To sharpen a knife on a whetstone, do the following:
How to sharpen a knife using a sharpening stone, see also in the video:
Sharpening a hunting knife on a Lansky sharpener
Hunting knives are made of hard steel, so their initial sharpening requires sharpening stones with a low content of abrasive grains.
How to sharpen knives in a Lansky sharpener, watch the video:
Sharpening scissors
Sharpening of scissors must be done on a special sharpening machine. Sharpening blades using improvised materials (sandpaper, the edge of a glass, etc.) can temporarily improve the sharpness of scissors, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to sharpen scissors from a professional, you can try self-sharpening on an abrasive stone. When sharpening you need to follow a few simple rules:
When sharpening scissors, do not rush; patience will be your ally in this matter.
You can also watch the video on how to quickly sharpen scissors:
Sharpening plane and chisel blades
Sharpening the blade of a plane and a chisel are practically no different from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:
Besides manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disk:
Do not forget that when sharpening products on a machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are generated that can get into your eyes, so be sure to wear safety glasses. To avoid damaging your hands on the rotating disk, wear gloves.
You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:
Tips for quickly sharpening a blade using improvised tools
Stone
You can quickly sharpen a knife on a hike or on a picnic using an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a whetstone and run the knife blade along its surface. You won't achieve razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to working condition.
Second knife
Sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones and devices, it is quite possible. To do this, you need to take a knife in both hands and begin to sharpen the blade of one knife on the blade of the other. After 5-10 minutes of this work, the knives will become sharper than before.
Glass objects
The knife blade can be slightly sharpened on the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, about the bottom of a glass or the edge tiles. The main thing is that the surface is rough.
Leather belt
A leather belt is more suitable for finishing and giving the knife blade a razor sharpness than for rough sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand except a belt, then you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do this, you need to tighten the belt and start moving the blade along it; you may not achieve strong sharpness, but you will polish the knife to a shine. 
By learning to sharpen knives and tools yourself, you will acquire a skill that will be useful to you throughout your life!