The service life of an incandescent lamp varies widely, because it depends on many factors: on the quality of the connections in the electrical wiring and the lamp, on the stability of the rated voltage, on the presence or absence of mechanical impacts on the lamp, shocks, shocks, vibrations, on the ambient temperature, on the type of switch used and the rate of increase in current when power is supplied to the lamp.
When an incandescent lamp operates for a long time, its filament gradually evaporates under the influence of high heating temperatures, decreases in diameter, and breaks (burns out). The higher the heating temperature of the filament, the more light the lamp emits. In this case, the filament evaporation process becomes more intense and the lamp service life is reduced. Therefore, for incandescent lamps, the filament temperature is set at a temperature that ensures the required light output of the lamp and a certain duration of its service.
The average burning time of an incandescent lamp at the design voltage does not exceed 1000 hours. After 750 hours of burning, the luminous flux decreases by an average of 15%.
Incandescent lamps are very sensitive to even relatively small increases in voltage: with a voltage increase of just 6%, the service life is halved. For this reason, incandescent lamps that illuminate staircases burn out quite often, since at night the electrical network is lightly loaded and the voltage is increased.
In one of the German cities there is a lantern with one of the first incandescent lamps screwed into it. She is already more than 100 years old. But it was made with a huge margin of reliability, so it still burns. Nowadays, incandescent light bulbs are produced en masse, but with a very small margin of reliability. The surge of current that occurs when the lighting is turned on often damages the light bulb due to low resistance in a cold state. Therefore, when turning on the lighting, the light bulb must be heated with a low current, and then turned on at full power. An incandescent lamp usually fails when turned on due to the low resistance of the cold filament.
Let's look at some small tricks to extend the life of incandescent lamps.
Taking into account the rated voltage
Currently, the industry produces incandescent lamps, which indicate not one voltage (127 or 220 V), but a range of voltages (125...135, 215...225, 220...230, 230...240 V) . Within each range, the incandescent lamp produces good luminous flux and is quite durable.
The presence of several ranges is explained by the fact that the operating voltage in the network differs from the nominal one: at the power source (substation) it is higher, and away from the power source it is lower. In this regard, in order for the lamps to serve for a long time and shine well, it is necessary to correctly select the required range. Obviously, if the voltage in your apartment network is 230 V, then it makes no sense to buy and install incandescent lamps that indicate the range of 215...225 V. Such lamps work with overheating and will not last long - they burn out prematurely.
Effect of vibration on lamp life
Incandescent lamps that operate in vibration and shock conditions are more likely to fail than those that operate in a quiet state. If there is a need to use a carrier, it is better to move it when it is turned off.
Prevention of a socket in which lamps often burn out
Sometimes it happens that the same lamp burns out in a chandelier, and when the lamp is operating, the socket is very hot. In this case, it is necessary to clean and bend the central and side contacts, tighten the contact connections of the wires suitable for the cartridge. It is advisable to install all the lamps in the chandelier with the same power.
Using a diode to protect the lamp
It is very beneficial to turn on incandescent lamps through a diode on the landings of houses, since the quality of lighting in this case is not significant, and the lamps, as operating experience shows, last for years. And if you can “attach” a resistor in series with the diode, then you can completely forget about the incandescent lamp on the landing.
Advice. For an incandescent lamp with a power of 25 W, it is enough to use a 50 Ohm resistor of the MLT type
The article describes a simple way to extend the service life of a household incandescent lamp using a small-sized diode assembly of the KTs407A type.
It is known that an ordinary household incandescent lamp does not last forever - it takes a certain period of time, determined by many different factors, before it fails to work. True, you can try to restore its functionality, as described in, if only this is possible after an inspection of the burnt out lamp.
Restoration is carried out by welding the ends of the broken (burnt out) filament. As a result, the incandescent lamp will last for some period of time, although it should be noted that this period may exceed the previous service time. We already have such experience.
However, you can extend the life of an incandescent lamp before “repair” work by welding the ends of the filament quite simply using a conventional diode, which is installed on the patch of the central electrode of the lamp by soldering with a soldering iron.
Technical solutions for implementing this method are given, for example, in, as well as in other periodicals. In this case, diodes of type D226B were used as diodes, which were subjected to significant alteration, or diodes of type KD105 with any letter index with minimal labor and time required for alteration.
In "Radioamator" 7/1998 it is proposed to use disk diodes of type 2D213A-6 with a permissible reverse voltage of only 200 V, which, naturally, cannot but affect the reliability of the operation of such a device. To this should be added the scarcity of these diodes.
It is advantageous to use incandescent lamps with a soldered diode for illuminating entrances and staircases, where the service life of the incandescent lamp, rather than the quality of lighting, comes first.
The service life of the lamp in this case is at least two years, with a power of up to 100 W inclusive, and in closets, bathrooms, corridors, etc. it results in a two-digit figure. Thus, the author of these lines has had incandescent lamps in good service since 1982, i.e. almost 22 years old.
You can also extend the “life” of an incandescent lamp by using a small-sized diode assembly in a plastic case of type KTs407A (case dimensions are only 7.5x6x3 mm with a diameter of the patch of the central electrode of the lamp 9 mm) for a current of 0.5 A and an allowable reverse voltage of 400 V, which Commonly called "spider". (Fig. 1, a).
Rice. 1. Diode assembly KTs407A.
The procedure for implementing the technical solution is as follows. AC terminals 2 and 5 of the diode assembly are completely broken off at the points where they exit the plastic housing. Then, using sandpaper, reduce its thickness to 1.5...2 mm, grinding the assembly evenly and carefully on both sides.
After that, terminals 1 and 6 are bent and pressed to the plane of the diode assembly, as shown in Fig. 1.6, and they are soldered at the intersection with each other. Do the same with pins 3 and 4, but from the opposite side. Next, the diode assembly is installed on the central electrode of the incandescent lamp.
To do this, the patch of the central electrode is heated with a soldering iron, the diode assembly is tinned and pressed into the molten solder, and it must be kept pressed against the patch of the lamp until the solder cools (Fig. 2). Then they check the one-way conductivity of the entire lamp-diodes circuit, screw the lamp into the socket and turn it on.
The absence of a glow indicates that it is necessary to slightly bend the side electrodes of the socket so that they touch the base of the screwed-in incandescent lamp. This concludes the modification of an incandescent lamp by using a “spider”.
Rice. 2. Connecting and fastening the diode assembly to an incandescent lamp.
A second option for attaching the diode assembly is also possible - by soldering its shortened leads 3 and 4 to the opposite sides of the central electrode of the incandescent lamp. For remodeling, it is better to use incandescent lamps with krypton filling (type BK), which have a mushroom-shaped bulb and increased luminous flux.
For example, a 60 W krypton lamp at a voltage of 220 V gives a luminous flux of 790 lm, while conventional lamps of type G (monospiral) and B (bispiral) of the same power at the same voltage - 650 lm. The difference is 140 lm, which exceeds the luminous flux of a conventional 15-watt lamp (110 lm) by 30 lm.
Those. A 60-watt krypton lamp is equivalent in luminous flux to a 75-watt conventional one. Working through a diode, a krypton lamp will naturally shine brighter than a regular 60-watt diode.
When installing the diode assembly on an incandescent lamp, you must be careful and careful, while observing safety regulations, having first wrapped the lamp bulb with a thick cloth. The “spider” can be quite easily installed in threaded sockets for incandescent lamps with E27 and E14 sockets (“minion”) by soldering on the central spring contact of the socket using pins 3 and 4 of the “spider”, which wrap around the central contact and are soldered to it with the opposite side. When screwed into the socket, the incandescent lamp with its central electrode is pressed against the crossed and soldered together terminals 1 and 6 of the diode assembly (Fig. 1, b).
K.V. Kolomoytsev, Ivano-Frankivsk, Ukraine. Electrician-2004-12.
Literature:
- Kolomoitsev K.V. Long-lived incandescent lamp//Electrician. - 2002. - No. 2. - C9.
- Pocharsky V., Danilenko L. Tablets for a light bulb // Inventor and innovator. - 1992. - No. 5-6. - P.23.
- Kolomoitsev K.V. Tablet for incandescent lamp//Ra-1996-3.
- Kolomoitsev K.V. Once again about “aspirin” for a light bulb and its variations // Ra-1999-9.
- Kolomoitsev K.V. Base - adapter for incandescent lamp//K-2002-4.
We'll tell you how to connect a regular incandescent lamp through a diode. Such a light bulb can be used, for example, to illuminate corridors, entrances or any other rooms that do not require very bright light. In this process, the question arises: what kind of diode do you need to buy to put 220 volts on a light bulb? This depends on the power of the light bulb; below in the article is an example of a diode for a 100-watt lamp, and formulas are given for calculating the parameters of the diode.
Fascinating electronic gizmos are sold in this Chinese store.
First, a little theory. It is no secret that to transmit voltage over long distances without loss, alternating current is used, which powers our light bulbs. To understand what alternating current is, just pay attention to the graph of voltage versus time for alternating current. As you may have noticed, the current changes its direction with a certain frequency. If we exclude one period of oscillation, then we can reduce their amplitude by half, which in practice will give us a 2-fold reduction in the supply voltage and, in turn, will allow the light bulb to work much longer than usual, and will also protect the light bulb from power surges and reduce the risk of burnout at the moment of switching on.
Such a lamp will not attract the attention of those who steal energy-saving and ordinary light bulbs on staircases.
The simplest way to cut off the half-cycle of mains voltage fluctuations is to install a semiconductor diode in series with the load, which will pass current only in one direction. In our case, it is necessary to select a diode according to three main parameters: maximum forward current, maximum forward current per pulse and maximum reverse voltage.
The maximum forward current can be found by dividing the power of the light bulb by the supply voltage. The maximum forward current in the pulse must be at least 20 times greater than the maximum forward current so that the diode is not knocked out when the light bulb is turned on. The value of the maximum reverse voltage should be 3 times the root of the supply voltage.
In our case, since the diode will be placed inside an additional patch base, do not forget that its length should be less than its length. For example, in this case it is used diode 1N5399, which costs about 8 cents. It is ideal in all respects for a 220 volt incandescent lamp with a power of 100 watts.
In order to make an eternal light bulb, we will need:
Old light bulb or socket.
New light bulb with a power of up to 100 W.
Diode.
Soldering iron with a power of at least 20 W.
Solder.
Side cutters or nippers.
Pliers.
Hammer.
Plastic bag.
Needle or straightened paper clip.
How to connect a light bulb via a diode
We need to take a diode, bite off one of its legs, and solder it to the contact on the lamp base. For ease of use, the lamp can be left in its packaging for this time so that it remains on the table.
Next, we prepare the second overhead base from an old light bulb. If the base is bent, use pliers. Next, you need to attach it to the main base by soldering the second contact of the diode to the patch base, or more precisely, to its central contact.
By the way, if you decide to make the light bulb eternal and you are not so interested in making a separate light bulb exclusive, an easier solution would be not to touch it, but simply screw the diode into the wires inside the switch. This is done much faster and easier.
Recently, authors have increasingly come out against the use of a diode in the power supply circuit of incandescent lamps. The arguments are different− from saving energy to maintaining health. Yes, diode lamps flicker, you can see it. But for indoor lighting, we can propose a circuit for switching on two lamps in one lampshade (Fig. 1).
According to my observations, glasses are worn mainly by those people who love bright artificial light and set their TV screens to unnaturally high brightness. Perhaps this is not a cause, but a consequence, I will not insist, but the cooling of the metal occurs nonlinearly (Fig. 2),and temperature output
Spirals from the visible zone occur more rapidly than from the infrared zone. Increasing the efficiency of the lamp with increasing temperature leads to a reduction in operating time. I think that if the light bulbs have an efficiency of not 10%, but 9%, then this is not as important as the regular replacement of lamps and hassle about this that have already become commonplace.
I don’t argue, when they talk about saving light bulbs, electricity and people’s health, integrated approaches that are seen in are important. But if we examine the problems of economy more closely, the true cause of our troubles becomes clear. It’s not the long-suffering diode that’s to blame, but our total ignorance of the wise use of electricity. Achieve triple energy savings lighting can be achieved by localization (using local lighting, for example, table lamps), as well as using fluorescent lamps with a large phosphor afterglow, as has long been done abroad.
The point is that the heat of the light bulb does not disappear anywhere. And it is used... for heating. That's right, 90% of the energy consumed by incandescent light bulbs is released as infrared radiation, heat. During work, this heat is considered lost. But we use artificial light mainly in cold seasons. At this time, houses have to be heated, and light bulbs simply do their bit. We don’t feel this because we don’t have heat meters in our homes (many don’t even know what it is). In the summer, it’s even easier to save on lighting; you have to go to bed and wake up with the sun, and that’s all, and no energy-saving technologies.
Whether there is a savings when using a diode? I will answer: “Yes, and what kind!” American experts claim that the use of a diode extends the life of a light bulb by 100 times, and many have already been convinced of this. In addition, in many cases, 60 or 100 W lamps are simply not needed, so they try to buy a 15-25 W lamp, and its flimsy spiral quickly burns out or simply breaks off. The price of some of our light bulbs already exceeds the cost of electricity, which they manage to consume during their short life. Therefore, it makes sense to use a more powerful light bulb, powering it through a diode. The use of thyristor power regulators also extends the life of light bulbs. Therefore, I consider it advisable not to waste time and paper fighting diodes and thyristor power regulators.
Yu.Borodaty
Literature
1. Kolesnik E.S. Are there any savings?//Radioamator-Electric. -2000.- No. 12. -P.25.
2. Titarenko Yu.I. What we save...//Radioamator-Electric. -2000. -No. 3. -P.44.
Despite the fact that classic incandescent lamps are being successfully replaced by more efficient light sources, they are still quite popular. These lighting devices are simple in design, inexpensive and do a good job of their functions. Perhaps the only drawback of an incandescent lamp is its service life. It is very small, but there are many ways to significantly extend the life of the Ilyich light bulb, and you will get acquainted with some of these methods today.
Operating principle of the lamp
Before you can address low life problems, you need to understand what an incandescent light bulb is and how it works.
Structurally, the device consists of a sealed glass flask into which two electrodes are soldered. The so-called working fluid is connected to the electrodes - a tungsten filament coiled into a spiral. A base of various designs is attached to the same flask, with the help of which the light bulb is connected to the lighting network.
Lamp designIn the first designs of light bulbs, the air was pumped out from the bulb so that the heated spiral did not oxidize. Later they began to do things simpler: fill the flask with inert gases. Usually it is a mixture of nitrogen and argon.
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Ask a question to an expertAfter connecting the lamp, the spiral, under the influence of electric current, heats up to 2,000 degrees Celsius and begins to glow, and inert gases prevent tungsten from oxidizing and burning. The temperature of the coil is such that, on the one hand, the lamp has the highest possible light output, and on the other, its service life is quite long (the higher the temperature, the faster the tungsten evaporates from the coil).
Reasons for failure of incandescent lamps
Today, the average lifespan of an incandescent lamp is about 1,000 hours. This is not very much for an electronic device. Moreover, you probably noticed that many light bulbs do not even last this long. What are the reasons for such a short life? Here are the main ones:
- Tough start.
As you probably know from your school physics course, when a conductor is heated, its resistance increases, and when it cools, it decreases. For a light bulb, this law is very problematic, since the resistance of a cold spiral is 12 times lower than that of a heated one. This means that at the moment of switching on, a current flows through the device that is 12 times higher than the operating current (remember Ohm’s law: I = U/R)! This effect is called electric shock, and an ordinary light bulb that you screw into a chandelier or table lamp has no protection against it.
You've probably noticed that light bulbs most often burn out the moment they are turned on. This happens precisely because of their difficult start.
- Increasing supply voltage.
As the supply voltage increases, the temperature of the coil increases, which means it evaporates faster - after all, the nitrogen-argon mixture only protects tungsten from oxidation. As a result, the service life of the overheated coil becomes shorter, as it becomes thinner faster. At some point (usually the next time you turn it on), the spiral cannot withstand the current shock and burns out. How critical is the increase in supply voltage? You will be surprised, but if you increase the supply voltage by only 6% (from the nominal 220 this is only 10-12 volts), then the average service life of an incandescent lamp will be halved! - Shocks and vibrations.
A very pressing problem for portable devices and lighting devices operating on vehicles. The spiral itself is a rather fragile thing, and when heated literally to white heat, tungsten, like any other metal, loses its mechanical strength. It is enough to shake a table lamp or carrying case vigorously for the filament to break and the service life of the device to suddenly end. Designers solve the problem of increasing service life by shortening the length of the spiral and increasing the number of hangers. But all this is done to create special lighting devices, for example, automobile ones. Ordinary “apartment” light bulbs are practically not protected from this disaster. - Light fixture malfunction.
If the supply wires, socket or switch have poor contact, then the lighting device is constantly exposed to voltage surges, and therefore to current shocks. In this case, it can work out the service time of several hours measured by the manufacturer. - Poor quality.
This refers to the manufacturing quality of the device. Despite its relatively simple design, a light bulb is a technologically complex device that cannot be made “on your knees.” Nevertheless, some craftsmen (I won’t point a finger at the brothers from China, they are no more hacky than others, and lately even less) manage to make quite functional, at first glance, devices from nothing and it is not clear on what equipment. The average service life of such a device is 3-4 starts.
Top 5 ways to extend the life of an incandescent lamp
How to deal with all the above problems and increase the life of the light bulb? The most important of them is electric shock, since it would seem that nothing depends on us here. Therefore, we will leave it for last, but for now we will go through the remaining points.
- Excess of supply voltage The industry produces light bulbs for different voltage types, so this problem is solved by choosing the right device. The most common standard in our country is: 215-235 V, 220-230 V and 230-240 V. Measure it yourself or ask an electrician you know to measure the voltage in the apartment sockets. This must be done several times throughout the day: morning, afternoon and evening. The maximum voltage that the tester will show is the operating voltage in your apartment. It is this value that the light bulbs you buy should be designed for. Typically, the operating voltage range is indicated on the base or bulb of the device. You can, of course, play it safe and take light bulbs with a higher voltage.
- Shock and vibration This issue can be easily resolved: do not move the lighting device when it is on. If this is necessary due to operating conditions, use low-voltage light bulbs - they have a shorter spiral. An ideal option to increase the service life of baby carriers: use special light bulbs, for example, car bulbs.
- Lighting network fault If you notice that the same lamp burns out in a multi-arm chandelier, pay close attention to the serviceability of the lamp. Poor contact in the socket or lead wire can cause voltage surges, which causes constant current shocks that burn out the light bulb. The same applies to multi-section switches. If the lamps in one section of a chandelier have a suspiciously short service life, clean and tighten the switch contacts.
How to deal with electric shock
Now let's deal with the main problem, which we left for last - electric shock during switching on. As I already said, they are not protected from it in any way. The lamp designers reached an acceptable service life of the light source, and left everything like that. Meanwhile, the switching current can be successfully combated. How to extend the life of incandescent lamps, which, due to their design features, are not ready for long-term use? Let's consider the main methods of dealing with heavy starting, which reduces the service life of light bulbs. Among them:
- Reduced supply voltage.
- Smooth heating of the coil.
Each of the options for increasing the service life of an incandescent device has its own advantages and disadvantages, but both have the right to life.
- We increase service life by lowering the voltage Surely you know that alternating current changes its polarity: first it flows in one direction, then in the other. First, in the socket on the phase wire relative to the zero one there is positive, and then negative, and so on 50 times per second. Now let's look at a diode - a semiconductor device you know from school. Its main property is the conductivity of current in only one direction. What happens if you connect a diode in series with a light bulb? Absolutely right - on a lamp connected through a diode, there will be approximately half of the effective voltage; alternating current will not be able to flow in the other direction. This means that at the moment of switching on, the current through the lamp spiral will be lower, which will significantly extend the service life of the lighting device. And here is a schematic solution to the problem:
Extending the life of a light bulb using a diode If the lamp power does not exceed 100 W, then almost any diode designed for a reverse voltage of at least 400 V and a forward current of at least 0.8 A can be used as D1. If the lamp is more powerful or weaker, then the forward current of the diode must be proportionally increased or decreased.
You can embed the diode itself into the wiring almost anywhere: in a lighting fixture, in a switch. Or you can simply connect the diode to the break in the wire powering the lamp. In this case, there is no need to look for the “plus” and “minus” of the semiconductor; the polarity of the diode does not matter and will not affect the service life of the light bulb in any way.
A simple and seemingly ideal way to extend service life, but it has a significant drawback. Since the diode cuts off one half-wave of the mains voltage, its frequency (voltage) is halved. This leads not only to an increase in the life of the lamp itself, but also to a very noticeable flickering of the light. This reduction in lighting quality is unpleasant to the eyes and harmful over long periods of use. Therefore, the option of increasing the service life of a light bulb using a diode is suitable only for emergency light sources, in particular, for illuminating utility rooms and staircases, where people stay for a short time.
Let's try to eliminate the flickering of the lamp, while maintaining the service life unchanged. To do this, we will use the properties of alternating current. Let's turn on a capacitor instead of a diode.
Extending the life of a light bulb using a ballast capacitor Since the capacitor resists alternating current, some voltage will drop across it. As a result, the light bulb, as in the case of a diode, will shine with underheating. But since the capacitance does not simply cut off one half-wave of alternating voltage, but limits the current in both directions, the lamp will not flicker. Its service life will be the same as when the diode is turned on. If you decide to assemble this circuit, then you will have to take a paper capacitor with an operating voltage of at least 400 V and a capacity of 2 to 10 μF. Moreover, the higher the capacity, the brighter the lamp will shine and the shorter its service life.
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.
Ask a question to an expertExample from life:
A capacitor has reactance when operating in alternating current circuits; a choke can work similarly, but with the opposite situation in terms of voltage leading current and vice versa. Thus, a 500 W lamp was connected in series with the inductor from the burned-out DRL400 (or DRL1000). This was done due to a lack of diodes of the required power. Nevertheless, it shone a little brighter than in similar spotlights with a diode, but without pulsation. The service life, in turn, has become significantly longer - 2 years every day in the dark (from 7 to 14 hours a day)
There is another method that allows you to reduce the supply voltage without increasing ripple and significantly increase the service life of the lighting device. To do this, just turn on 2 light bulbs of the same power in series.
Increasing the service life of lamps by switching them in series In this case, the voltage between the bulbs will be divided in half, and each will receive 110 V. Of course, you will have to splurge on buying a second lamp, but they are inexpensive, and the increased service life of such a light will more than cover all costs.
These two methods of increasing service time are the simplest, but, alas, not the best. In both cases, the lamp operates at a reduced voltage. This, of course, increases its service life, but significantly affects not only the quality of lighting, but also the energy efficiency of the light source. As I said, the optimal filament temperature of the tungsten filament, at which the lamp efficiency is maximum, is 2,000 degrees Celsius. But with the voltage reduced by almost half, the light output of the lighting device will drop by 4 times!
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.
Ask a question to an expertBear in mind! When using voltage reduction, there can be no talk of any energy savings. The light bulb consumes half as much, but shines 4 times worse. The only benefit from these methods is a significant (by years) extension of service life.
- We provide a “soft” start
Since the heaviest mode for a lamp, which significantly reduces its service life, is the moment it is turned on, it is not necessary to constantly power it with a reduced voltage. It is enough just to increase the duration of the filament of the spiral. Under normal conditions, the lamp heats up in milliseconds. But if you increase this time to a second, temporarily limiting the current through the spiral, then the problem of increasing the trouble-free service life of the lighting device will be solved.
One of the simplest and most inexpensive options for increasing operating time is to connect a thermistor in series with the light bulb. A special feature of this device is the strong dependence of the electrical resistance on the body temperature. There are two types of thermistors: with positive and negative TCR (Temperature Coefficient of Resistance). As the temperature increases, the resistance of the first type increases, and the resistance of the second decreases. I think you already get the idea.
If you place a device with a negative TCR in series with the lamp, then at the moment of switching on its resistance is high, and the current through the lamp is greatly limited. As the spiral heats up, the thermistor itself heats up by the flowing current. Its resistance drops and after a while becomes minimal. This stops the work of limiting the current through the lamp, which by this time has already warmed up. The scheme for the practical application of this method is extremely simple and almost everyone can assemble it:
Extending lamp life using a thermistor Finding such a thermistor is not difficult; it was widely used in almost all domestic televisions of 2-5 generations for the demagnetization system, and it is quite inexpensive. The effect of such a modification is obvious: a significant increase in the service life of the lighting device without deteriorating its other characteristics (efficiency and luminous efficiency).
The scheme for increasing lamp life is ideal, but what's the catch? The fact is that during operation the thermistor heats up to 60-70 degrees Celsius. You can no longer insert it into a switch or a plastic chandelier base. The only possible installation location is in the area of the lamp base, which is not always convenient or aesthetically pleasing. And, of course, electricity is constantly spent on heating.
On a heated thermistor, with a lamp power of 75 W, about 2.5 V drops. It is easy to calculate that the power consumed by the resistor will be about a watt. The overexpenditure is not that big, so the scheme can be considered quite economical.
There are also more complex soft start circuits that increase the service life of light bulbs. But their repetition requires some knowledge of electronics, so I will not consider them here. In such designs, semiconductor devices are used as a regulating element: thyristors or transistors.
If you don’t want to pick up a soldering iron at all, then you can use a ready-made solution. For example, a dimmer with a rotary knob or a special protection unit (those used for halogen lamps are also suitable for ordinary lamps), which can be found in any specialized store. They are not cheap, but over time they will pay for themselves, since the service life of the light bulbs will increase significantly. Any electrician can install the purchased device. You can do this yourself if you know what a screwdriver is for and what a voltage indicator (indicator) is.