Nowadays, the requirements for materials are much higher than before.
When deciding to make a heated floor, many people are faced with the question of which laminate is warmer. The flooring must not only serve faithfully for many years, be durable and resistant to mechanical damage, but also be warm. The requirements are especially high for families with small children.
A heated floor is a structure in which heating elements are installed.
A heated floor is a structure in which heating elements are installed, differing in type (convection, infrared) and installation method. In addition, for a warm floor you need a warm underlay for the laminate, which is better depends on the type of heating chosen. The floor covering is laid directly on top of the heating elements. In addition to heating elements and cables, the underfloor heating system includes temperature sensors, a thermostat, and additional parts to speed up installation (corrugated pipes, mounting tapes, etc.). The installation plan for a heated floor depends on its type.
Laminate is a wood fiber board coated with special resins, compounds and impregnations to increase strength.
What is a “warm” laminate?
It is necessary to figure out which laminate is warmer and whether there is a “warm laminate” as such.
Laminate is a wood fiber board coated with special resins, compounds and impregnations to increase strength. Since this material has high strength and density, it conducts heat worse than parquet or solid wood. If you touch such material, it will probably seem quite cold. Therefore, even when purchasing thicker slabs, you cannot be completely sure that the resulting floor will be warmer than one covered with conventional 7 mm tiles.
There is no such material as warm laminate, but there is one specifically designed for laying on top of a warm floor.
All flooring materials have the property of thermal conductivity, that is, they are able to transfer heat from a warm area to a colder one. Thermal conductivity is measured in W/m. Conventional tiles have one of the highest thermal conductivities - 1.5 W/m. Parquet and solid boards have approximately the same thermal conductivity - 0.15 W/m. The thermal conductivity of linoleum is slightly higher, within 0.18. Finally, the thermal conductivity of the laminate is 0.46. Having compared all these indicators, we can conclude that it, just like, for example, linoleum, does not equalize the surface temperature. Therefore, the question of which laminate is warmer is somewhat misleading. There is no such material as warm laminate, but there is one specifically designed for laying on top of a warm floor. Regular laminate can also be installed, but it is unlikely to be able to withstand changing temperatures for a long time, it may become deformed or begin to let in heat.
Thermal conductivity of the laminate - 0.46
To prevent the occurrence of such unpleasant effects, we have developed a special laminate that “works” perfectly together with a heated floor. Such slabs have special properties: they are more resistant to temperature changes, but at the same time their appearance and durability remain at the same level. It’s easy to figure out which laminate flooring you need to buy thanks to the special markings on the packaging. Next to the icon you can see the temperature limit and a recommendation on what type of underfloor heating the laminate can be used with.
Types of heated floors
Having decided on the material, it is worth deciding one more question about which heated floor is best suited for laminate. Technologies do not stand still and at the moment there are 3 main options for installing heated floors:
- electric;
- infrared;
- water.
A water floor is good because it does not depend on electricity, and therefore is safer. If the installation technology is followed, the water floor will serve for a long time without causing any difficulties during operation. At the same time, maintenance will be cheaper than underfloor heating.
A water floor is good because it does not depend on electricity, and therefore is safer
The disadvantages of water heated floors stop many from choosing this option. First of all, the duration of repair work increases significantly, since for installation it is necessary to pour a concrete screed, which must dry well. This may take more than one day. Due to the screed, the floor level rises somewhat, which is a huge disadvantage for apartments with low ceilings.
The main disadvantage of the floor is the complexity of its installation and arrangement. If a pipe breaks, repairs will be slow and quite complicated.
For all these reasons, electric flooring has become a common option. The ease of installation and maintenance prompts many buyers to choose this option, and then decide which laminate will be warmer for a given room.
The advantage of an electric floor is the ability to control the temperature, as well as set different temperature conditions depending on the area of the room. So, to heat a living room, a 150 W cable is enough, while to heat a loggia or balcony you cannot do without a 220 W cable.
The advantage of an electric floor is the ability to control the temperature
The disadvantage of an electric heated floor is that it is less safe compared to a water floor (due to magnetic radiation), as well as depending on the electrical network and the high cost of maintenance.
The most modern option today is infrared flooring. It is more technologically advanced, as it allows the surface to be heated evenly. Thanks to the more comfortable mode, you don’t have to think about which laminate is warmer for this floor. There are not many disadvantages to film infrared floors: the high cost of installation and the impossibility of using them in rooms with high humidity.
It is necessary to choose which heated floor for laminate will be more preferable based on the needs and wishes of the apartment residents.
The most modern option today is infrared flooring.
Choosing a laminate for electric heated floors
The combination of electric heated flooring and laminate remains the most popular today due to the relative ease of installation. But you need to choose which laminate is best suited for a warm floor with electric heating as carefully as possible, having first studied all the technical characteristics of the material.
Important! Laminate is not the best covering for such a floor, as it does not withstand its impact very well.
Like the substrate, this material does not have high heat transfer, so the cable first warms up the floor screed, then the substrate warms up, and only after that the floor begins to warm up. Accordingly, it will take more time to heat the panels, and then the costs of heating the floor will be high.
For electrically heated floors, regular tiles are best suited. But if laminate still seems most preferable, then you need to choose a material with the appropriate markings on the packaging and indicating the appropriate type of heating.
In order for an electrically heated floor to work as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to make the screed correctly
In addition, the material must meet the following characteristics:
- good thermal conductivity;
- abrasion resistance;
- high resistance to mechanical damage;
- safety.
In order for an electrically heated floor to work as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to make the screed correctly; it must be perfectly level. The command and control system must also be reliable. Only in this case can one count on maximum thermal conductivity.
Laminate for water heated floors
There is only one answer to the question of which laminate to choose for a warm water floor - the most reliable. The material must be of high quality, high density and always have a protective coating. If the laminate meets these requirements, then with a high probability it will be able to endure the “neighborhood” with a water floor.
Water-based heating is characterized by certain aspects: humidity combined with a fairly high temperature. Ordinary laminate tiles will not be able to withstand such conditions for long, but high-quality laminate tiles will be able to maintain an attractive appearance and good performance for a long time.
Water-based heating is characterized by some issues: humidity combined with a fairly high temperature
When choosing which laminate is best suited for warm water floors, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:
- high wear resistance (class 33 and above);
- moisture resistance;
- thickness of at least 8 mm (otherwise the laminate will quickly lose its shape);
- marking.
The packaging of laminate for heated water floors always contains the H2O marking
The packaging of laminate for heated water floors always contains the H2O marking. Instead, there may be an inscription - “Warm Wasser” or “Underfloor heating”. You need to choose exactly these and use them for their intended purpose (that is, do not place them on infrared or electric ones).
Attention! When using a heated floor, it is important to observe the temperature regime.
Ideally, the temperature should be around 27°C. It is undesirable to heat the panels above 30°C, as they may become deformed and lose their appearance. An increase in temperature is also dangerous because strong heating will lead to the release of formaldehyde, which will have a bad effect on people’s well-being.
You can regulate the temperature using a special temperature change device. This device displays the difference in temperature between the laminate and the floor. The specified value must be changed smoothly, since sudden heating increases the likelihood of deformation of the laminate.
Laminate and infrared completely
Infrared flooring is considered, although expensive, but modern and the most convenient option for heated floors. And laminate is the most suitable material for this system. Moreover, film floors were created specifically for laying under laminate.
Infrared flooring is considered, although expensive, but modern and the most convenient option for heated floors.
The infrared floor consists of a thin film with stripes (conductive elements). The backing is laid on the film, so heating the screed is not necessary. The material warms up due to contact with heating elements. Due to this, high performance is achieved: the screed does not need to be heated, so the floor heats up better and faster, and its maintenance is cheaper.
When choosing which laminate is best for infrared heated floors, you need to focus on the following characteristics:
- thickness does not exceed 8 mm;
- wear resistance class 33;
- marking.
The most modern development today is considered to be a laminate with a built-in heating system. It became possible to buy it quite recently. The material is perfect for those who cannot decide which laminate is warmer and which type of heated floor is more profitable and reliable.
The total cost of a warm laminate is 3 times cheaper than the cost of an electrically heated floor
The difference is that the heating elements pass inside the laminate slabs, therefore, when installing the flooring, the heating system is also installed at the same time. The advantage of the system is that heat is released into the air more easily. The heating element is located between the HDF board and the thermal insulation, thereby reducing heat loss by 30%.
The total cost of a warm laminate flooring is 3 times cheaper than the cost of an electrically heated floor. It only takes 10 minutes to heat up the stoves, given that the room temperature is 20°C. Finally, warm laminate tiles can be combined with regular ones, creating separate heated zones where it is especially necessary. All these qualities make the new type of material truly unique.
Choosing a underlay for a heated floor
Laminate for heated floors, as you know, must have appropriate markings. The same goes for the substrate.
When choosing laminate flooring for a heated floor, you also have to decide which underlay is best suited for this purpose.
The underlay intended for heated floors has a special marking. The corresponding icon is indicated on the packaging. Next to the marking is the permissible temperature. There you can also find an indication of the possible thermal resistance coefficient.
Cork backing
When choosing a laminate underlay for a heated floor, you will need to take into account such characteristics as sound insulation, thermal insulation, and shock absorption.
Important! The underlay for a heated floor should be no more than 3 mm thick in order to smooth out small irregularities, but not to insulate the heating element.
For heated floors, it is better to choose from cork, polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam.
Laying laminate flooring on a concrete screed
The cork backing should be denser. The optimal thickness is 2-10 mm, but the thicker the material, the better. The cork backing should be laid on good polyethylene.
Are cold floors the first and most unpleasant impression of your day? Everything can be corrected. It is only important to correctly “diagnose” the problem, because the matter is not always just the lack of a “warm floor” system or the unfortunate location of the room - everything is much more interesting. Now we will look at the main causes of cold floors and ways to correct this problem.
Reason #1. Crevices
The first and most common culprit for cold floors is cracks. So what should you do if the floors in your dacha are exactly like this? Try this interesting option, especially popular back in Soviet times. Cheap and cheerful, as they say:
- Step 1. Seal the gaps between the boards with putty. Yes, you can use the most ordinary store-bought paint, paint it with regular floor paint and leave it like that - but it won’t work. The fact is that a person puts pressure on the floorboards with his weight, and they eventually bend - which is why both the putty and the paint fly off quite quickly. That’s why we make putty in our own way: mix finely sifted sawdust with PVA glue (for furniture). Fill the cracks with this compound, having previously lubricated the edges of the floor slats with the same PVA. Stolyar glue is also suitable due to its water resistance.
- Step 2: Now use the blade of an ax to cut away the exposed old paint chips on the floorboards and lightly sand the entire floor with medium grit sandpaper.
- Step 3. In individual problem areas, secure the boards with self-tapping screws. Just “sink” the caps themselves and fill the holes with the same mixture as the cracks.
- Step 4: Thoroughly vacuum the entire surface.
- Step 5. Now purchase thin paper wallpaper with a wood texture (any other option is possible, of course).
- Step 6. Roll out the rolls in a convenient place and cover with a thin layer of parquet varnish (dilute it a little with solvent). This is necessary so that the wallpaper becomes more durable when wetted with PVA glue, also thinly diluted with water. In addition, otherwise the texture of the wallpaper may also be erased during smoothing. And stains will appear from accidental touches. By the way, we varnish the textured surface.
- Step 7. Now we cut individual sheets of wallpaper - the same width as each individual board.
- Step 8. Apply glue to the boards and place the prepared sheets. If the gap is still noticeable, then lightly press the paper into it. But each stripe must overlap the next. By the way, if the varnish between the strips bursts, this will only add decorativeness to the entire coating, imitating a real plank floor.
- Step 9. Press the paper strips tightly and smooth them with a clothes brush to remove air bubbles.
- Step 10. Use a clean rag to remove excess glue.
- Step 11. Let the new floor dry for at least three days. After this, we cover it with parquet varnish in three layers.
This is what it looks like:
Here's what to do when the gaps are too large:
This floor will serve you for a surprisingly long time, but you will forget about drafts through the cracks forever.
But if things are really bad, do this:
And in the absence of funds, like this:
Reason #2. Dampness under the floor
Dampness in the underground can also cause a lot of worries. So, already in the spring, damp and warm air enters the house through the vents, and the basement at this time is still cold. Usually this flow finds its condensation point on the joists, and manages to not only fill the unprotected insulation with moisture, but even hang icicles on it. And this cold dampness directly touches the floor.
What to do in this case? First of all, protect the insulation from below - at least with the same polyethylene board. Secondly, if this happens all the time, stop using vents altogether and organize underground ventilation through a grille in the house itself.
You also need to try to at least somehow insulate the foundation itself with the base so that it does not freeze so much in the winter:
By the way, you will be surprised, but your tailed tenants also manage to make their moves so that you feel a considerable draft near the walls. Control methods: cat, electric cat or ultrasonic repeller.
Reason #3. Lack of insulation
When you do everything in the house with your own hands, would it even occur to you to put half as much insulation under the floor as the instructions indicate? It’s unlikely, you’ll agree. After all, you’ll be freezing later. But it’s easy for a hired construction team. The pie floor looks decent, everything was done, at first glance, professionally, and the lack of building materials is not so easy to calculate. Especially if you yourself don’t understand much about it. But the same balance can be given to the second client, and everything will also look decent. But they paid the foreman for two whole sets!
Result: cold floor. What to do? It’s easy to check the insulation layer: find on the Internet what layer the material you have should have, and check it with a simple metal ruler. An obvious drawback? The floor will have to be completely opened up.
So, it is also possible to completely solve the problem thanks to - this is a lightweight and harmless material that serves as an excellent heat and vapor barrier. Or more complex, but no less effective options for complex cases - we have provided step-by-step instructions below.
When it comes to an apartment, there are many options. But here is the simplest and most cost-effective option to make the floors in a private home much warmer:
- Step 1. At the lowest point of the underground - 10-20 cm.
- Step 2. Place 10 cm of polystyrene foam on top of it, very tightly. This insulation should completely cut off the cold from the ground.
- Step 3. On the foam plastic - a layer of fine expanded clay, up to 70 cm.
- Step 4. Now - an air gap with vents in the foundation. We close them completely for the winter.
- Step 5. Next, we install the wooden floors. Such a floor should lie on the grooves of the log, which are closed with a rubber band (if you have just such walls). The purpose of the tape is to separate the floors from the wall so that the sound of walking on the floors is not transmitted to the walls. Those. basic sound insulation.
- Step 6. Next we lay out sheets of rubber on which the waterproofing is laid.
- Step 7. And finally, if desired, a layer of screed 7 cm thick with warm floors. After that - the floor covering.
If you just have a wooden floor with joists, and underneath there is just damp earth, do this:
- Step 1. Carefully remove the covering.
- Step 2. We treat the logs with a special compound (you can even just use used oil).
- Step 3. Attach a corner to the joists for tensioning the cord. We pull the cord - the foam will be held on it, and the corner can be removed. Attach the cord to the joists.
- Step 4. Lay down 50mm foam sheets. We seal the gaps between it and the tree with foam.
- Step 5. Lay Penofol on top of the foam, thickness 3 mm. We install the floor boards in their place.
- Step 6. Now we fix the foam from the underground. So, we take nylon roofs from cans, and press the foam using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
This is the simplest and most unpretentious way. You can also install heated floors:
Reason #4. Cold foundation
Large heat losses for the floor can also be incurred by the foundation with a plinth. What to do with this, watch the video:
And you can read more about insulating the floor and foundation at - detailed step-by-step photo instructions have been compiled especially for you.
Reason #5. Laminate
Although laminate seems warmer than tiles, children won’t play on it either – it’s unpleasant. Why is that? It's all about the finishing layer - it's a decorative film, not a cut of natural wood. And it has greater thermal conductivity. In a word, cold laminate is a common problem. And it is usually solved in two ways: by placing a technical cork under the coating, which has the property of retaining heat well, or -.
The fastest and most reliable option, of course, is to install a heated floor system. At least, in the absence of cracks and dampness, the floor will not seem cold. Just keep in mind: the “warm floor” system does not mean that your coating will actually heat (with the exception of ceramic tiles), the discomfort will simply disappear, and nothing more.
A heated floor system is good not only because it is pleasant to walk on such a floor barefoot and moisture evaporates easily, but also because some heat will remain even when the electricity is turned off.
What else can you do? If possible, if you installed this flooring using the interlocking method, lift it up and install the underfloor heating system. If it's adhesive, then don't touch it. Instead, pay attention to the heating system: arrange it lower than it is, attach IR heaters to the walls - they warm objects, not air, according to the manufacturer.
Reason #6. Absorption of infrared rays
Also pay attention to such a physical phenomenon as infrared radiation. It happens that floors absorb heat so much that, without knowing it, you heat the underground. Laminate is a good conductor. Therefore, if everything is insulated and there are no gaps in the covering, place a layer of foil material under it, only with the front side up. You will immediately notice the difference, believe me!
Reason #7. Tactile sensations
And finally, one of the most unexpected reasons why the floor can be cold is purely tactile sensations. Simple physics is at work here: cold as a physical phenomenon does not actually exist - it is simply a lack of heat. And different materials do not have the same ability to absorb this heat from other sources. And the absorption occurs for the sake of updating the same balance. And those objects and coatings seem warmer, which take heat away from you more slowly.
So, for example, if you get up from your favorite place, you can feel with just your palm how your body has heated one part of the sofa or bench, while the other remains cold. Moreover, the heated place will be approximately the same temperature as your skin. The same applies to floors - as soon as your foot touches them, a rapid heat exchange occurs. And its intensity depends on the thermal conductivity of the flooring material: the higher it is, the colder the floor will seem, unless, however, you heat it from below.
It turns out that the approximate room temperature is about 18-20°C, and below is about 15-17°C. This is exactly the temperature the floor will have. And now you see what’s the matter: 36.6° - 17°? This is why we can experience quite unpleasant sensations from walking barefoot, even though it doesn’t seem to be cold in the house itself. And this can really make you sick - after all, heat is “downloaded” from us, and the body needs it.
So what to do? And is it then necessary to install “warm floors”? Not at all. If you definitely don’t have any cracks, and the floors aren’t freezing due to an improperly constructed underground, and it’s definitely not a matter of organizing the heating, then work with the floor covering itself. Thus, ceramic tiles have the highest thermal conductivity - they “rob” us of heat the fastest, especially in the bathroom area. And don’t walk around endlessly in rubber slippers, and the rugs in such a room can become damp. Not to mention the fact that no one will tear off the tiles again - there is no other way to put a heated floor system under it.
Here, look how they solve this problem overseas with humor and creativity:
Modern PVC tiles would also be a good option: they have the same low thermal conductivity as cork. You can even take it onto the balcony for the sake of experiment, leaving it there all winter night. By morning, pick it up - it won’t seem cold even then.
Don't endure the cold - the time and effort spent are worth it to greet every morning in comfort!
This is a universal floor covering that is suitable for almost all rooms. However, in winter it needs insulation. We will talk further about which insulation is best to use under laminate.
To insulate laminate floors, you can use one of three methods.
Warm floor system
Heated laminate floors are the simplest, but also the most expensive, method of insulation. Foil or infrared insulation can serve as a heating system. This option is not in demand only in cases where there is a sharp temperature change. This leads to damage to the system.
Installing a “warm floor” requires knowledge of all the intricacies. The system must have a thermostat. After installing heated floors, you should add 5°C daily until the temperature reaches +15 degrees.
Using a warm underlay for laminate flooring
In some cases there is no need to use additional insulating material and a simple underlay is sufficient. It is important to choose it correctly. It comes in several types: cork, isolon, polystyrene, etc. The most environmentally friendly is a cork backing, and the most durable is made of polystyrene.
When laying the substrate, it is important that the surface is smooth, without small flaws and cracks. There are different material thicknesses available to choose from: from 2 to 10 mm. If you have chosen a dense cork backing, then it should be laid on polyethylene.
Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam with backing
If you want to get an insulated laminate floor with a base made of wooden joists or concrete, you must adhere to certain technologies. For flooring, foam or polystyrene foam 20 mm thick is used, which are attached to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. A substrate or plywood is laid on top of this structure, and then a laminated coating.
Cold floors are one of the very popular problems that worries many residents of our state. But any question, even a very nasty one, can be resolved if there is a desire. And cold laminate is no exception. The main thing is to determine the cause of this phenomenon and remove it. After all, the difficulty is not necessarily hidden in the unfortunate location of the room. You don’t even see that your floor can become warm with small modifications.
Laminate floors
The main causes of cold floor coverings
- Very often, cracks and crevices between panels are considered to be the basis for excess cold in the floor area. It's very easy to get rid of them. For example, you can use an ordinary putty compound, and after applying the mixture, veil it with floor paint or varnish. You can also carefully cut out the cracks a little and drive suitable sized pieces of wood into them. After sanding the surface to be repaired and covering it with paint or floor varnish, virtually nothing will be visible.
- Not should be forgotten about the fact that the floor will never be warm if its base is characterized by high moisture and dampness. To remove this problem, it is recommended to lay an ordinary polyethylene film under the insulation material. However, if the issue is not resolved, experts recommend abandoning vents altogether and organizing underground ventilation specifically in the house itself.
Laying polymer ethylene under a heat insulator
- Another disadvantage may be the presence of a reduced layer of material for insulation. Depending on what kind of heat insulator you used, look at the instructions for its use to see what thickness should be provided.
Main! In this case, you do not need to remove the entire coating. To make the floor warm, you can simply remove one panel in a not very noticeable place and measure the thickness of the insulation material with a standard metal ruler.
- Also not should be forgotten about the cold foundation. No one is immune from this.
- Do not forget that cold the laminate flooring itself. This is all due to the fact that its top decorative layer has high heat conductivity compared to a wooden floor. What to do in this option - you ask yourself. Just lay cork material under the laminate. It will provide an opportunity to save heat. Or use, in other words, “underfloor heating.”
- No matter how surprising it may sound, it never should be forgotten about the physical phenomenon of absorption of infrared radiation. Because laminate is very thermally conductive, it allows warm rays to pass through and warms the underground. To prevent this, you can place sheets of foil under the covering.
Laying foil under laminate
- And our tactile senses cannot go unnoticed. Professionals say that the floor covering makes a person feel cold, although this is simply a lack of warmth. Different materials have different characteristic heat absorption characteristics from different sources. All this is supplied to change the overall balance. And that surface seems a little warmer if it absorbs heat more slowly.
You should not endure the constant cold of the floors. You need to make a little effort and turn on your imagination so that every morning begins with pleasant and warm feelings.
To get rid of the problem forever cold laminate, you can insulate it. This is what is discussed in detail in the following video: