DIY cabin boat step by step instructions. Wooden boat

One of the most common materials for building a boat with your own hands is fiberglass. Using such raw materials, you can independently construct a fairly large boat: from 7.5 to 18 m in length.

General information

One of the most common models of boats made from fiberglass material is the WaveRunner-285 boat. It is considered a full-fledged planing vessel, which is quite suitable for walking on the sea or tourism. The ship, which is characterized by the fact that it has an increased freeboard, as well as a fairly large width, is also convenient in that its bow can accommodate a comfortable salon with an adjacent toilet and galley. In the stern of the boat, you can make a double cabin with your own hands, the location of which will be located strictly under the cockpit. The unit control department will be located above the engine compartment, and it will also be protected from wind and water splashes by inclined glass.

Boat power

When equipping a boat with your own hands, you need to consider which engine will be installed on it later. This particular model is designed to install either one or two motors. However, it is important to consider here that the total power for the normal functioning of the facility should be in the range from 250 to 500 hp. With. They must also have a direct reverse gearbox, which will allow them to reach a speed of 15-30 knots, which in km/h ranges from 28 to 56. In addition, the vessel may also have propulsion systems or additional outboard motors.

It is worth noting that building a boat with your own hands saves from 50 to 75% of material resources from the amount that would have been spent if the unit had been purchased at a shipyard and not built independently. It is also worth noting that the given technology for building a small vessel is not the last word in shipbuilding. This is just a practice-tested, established method that will allow you to construct an acceptable fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Beginning of work

Starting the construction of a small fiberglass boat is no different from building from any other material. The first step is to lay out the theoretical frames, as well as the contour of the stem, on a plywood panel or on a sheet of cardboard. The breakdown should be carried out in the actual size of these parts.

It is also important to note that the board or plaza on which the layout is made must have a width corresponding to the width of the boat, plus 300 mm. The height of this object must be 400 mm higher than the expected height of the housing. Experts recommend first creating drawings of the boats, on which all the necessary parts will be marked with dimensions. This is done in order to avoid mistakes during the manufacturing process.

Another important detail is that the upper ends of all frames must be extended to the height that is shown as a horizontal line on the plaza. It is perpendicular to the DP line and is called the Shergel line.

Assembling patterns

When carrying out work on plasma marking of patterns, it is very important to take into account factors such as the thickness of the slats and the thickness of the sheet metal that will be used as lining of the inner surface of the matrix. In other words, when drawing up a drawing of a boat and subsequent assembly, it is necessary to set aside from the theoretical line of each of the frames the distance inward that will correspond to the total thickness of the slats and sheet metal. It is this marking option that should be used when cutting out patterns and their further assembly.

The individual parts of the transverse patterns must be connected using materials such as linings and brackets made from pieces of plywood with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm. A similar indicator is suitable for a boat whose length will be around 10 m. It is best to glue the linings to the patterns, and then additionally screw them with screws or nail them.

How to make a boat: plating and matrix

Next, before assembling the existing patterns into a matrix, it is necessary to attend to the creation of the outer cladding of the structure. In order to create the most comfortable conditions when working with the outer skin of the boat, it is necessary to provide a part that ensures the tilt of the matrix on both sides of the ship.

If you do everything correctly, you will be able to work while standing on the floor next to the workpieces. The matrix itself, in any case, must have a very strong and rigid structure. This is necessary so that during the construction of the unit the shape of its body is not distorted.

How to make a boat with a strong matrix? Large structures are assembled from longitudinal beams, which will form the horizontal base of the boat. Inside the resulting frame, it is necessary to install walkways that will facilitate the work of gluing the body. After the longitudinal beams, which are the base of the matrix, have been installed, the future position of all the patterns is marked on them, and a steel wire is stretched along the beams, which will be a string indicating the vessel’s DP.

Installation of patterns

It is recommended to start the process of installing blanks from the midship frame. Before securely fastening this element, it is very important to make sure that the pattern is strictly vertical and perpendicular to the DP. It is attached to the beams that serve as the base. After all the other workpieces have been mounted, the stand located in the transom DP has been installed, and all the elements have been braced with braces to avoid any movement, you can proceed to the stage of covering the inner surface of the matrix using longitudinal slats.

To perform this task, material with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm and a width of 50 mm is most often used. To equip the bottom of the boat, it is better to use slats with the same thickness, but greater width - up to 100 mm.

Aluminum water boat

The low cost of raw materials, as well as lathes, has led to the fact that many owners have decided to independently manufacture certain parts and elements from metal. It is believed that the production of an aluminum boat is one of the most difficult tasks, which is practically impossible, but at the factory they are created without difficulty, since they have special tools for this. However, this is not so.

The most difficult thing in making this type of boat yourself is making its pattern from metal. This term refers to the marking of exactly how it is necessary to cut out the necessary parts from aluminum.

When making such a unit from metal, the whole process comes down to assembling a kind of construction set. This is true if the blanks are not cut out yourself, since this still requires a lot of skill and high-precision equipment, but a computerized model of the boat is purchased. Yes, the cost of such a model will also be quite high, but if you compare it with buying a ready-made vessel, you will see significant savings.

High-speed small craft

Another option for a vessel that you can make yourself is a speedboat. A rather important part in the construction of this type of unit is the choice of engine and its location. This part can be placed in the cockpit of the vessel, and the part that will protrude can be covered with a hood.

This definition of the place was not chosen by chance. It will expand the range of devices suitable for installation. You can use engines from cars such as Zhiguli or Volga. In addition to these models, it is quite possible to install a diesel engine from a tractor. However, this is only possible if additional hot air removal is provided. You can use a fake chimney for this.

Air-cooled engines can also be installed. Since a high-speed boat must have good stability when moving quickly through the water, it is recommended to place this part closer to the center of gravity of the entire vessel. The greater weight of the engine will give greater stability to the entire structure.

Do you want to assemble a boat with your own hands? This is a tourist boat () simple in design, but to build it you need some experience. The dimensions of the boat allow you to accommodate 6 people in three cabins, one of them is located in the stern of the boat, since the length of the boat hull is 8.5 m. To place a double berth in the aft cabin, it is necessary to make an “inset” into the cockpit. And the partition above the legs lying in the berth serves as a seat in the cockpit. You can also place the berth across the boat right at the transom; the width of the boat allows this to be done

But due to the pitching and roll of the ship, this arrangement is not very convenient for passengers. The engine can be placed in the cockpit by covering the protruding part with the hood. This engine arrangement will give you freedom in engine choice. You can install an engine from a Volga or Moskvich car with its original gearbox. You can also supply a diesel engine from a tractor if you install a hot air outlet - as an option, install a fake chimney; an air-cooled engine is also suitable. The location of the engine is close to the center of gravity of the boat, this has a good effect on the landing of the boat on the water, and does not cause a strong running trim to the stern. Before building a boat with your own hands, finally decide which engine you will install.

The best option is a diesel engine; of course, it is not easy to find a marine diesel engine, and they have a considerable weight. But they have a reverse gearbox and can be cooled with sea water. A diesel engine from a tractor is easier to find, but you will have to install a reverse gearbox on it and change the cooling system. More affordable car engines, but they are less economical. If you modify the gearbox and cooling system, you can easily install them on a boat that you build with your own hands. 50 - 60% of the engine power is more than enough, while the speed will be 15 -17 km/h and the fuel consumption will be approximately 0.5-0.6 kg/km.

The contours of the boat are sharp-cheeked and they are pinched for swimming at a relative speed - Froude number Fr = v: vgL = 0.40 - 0.57. The transom is partially immersed in the water, which gives a smooth flow around the boat's hull without strong turbulence at low speeds and stalling the flow at maximum speed when the boat goes into planing mode. If you have a diesel engine with a power of approximately 20 hp and with a gearbox that provides a propeller shaft speed of approximately 1000 rpm. This will be the best option. The speed of the boat may drop to 12 km/h, but the large-diameter mushroom propeller will provide the necessary thrust to overcome strong headwinds and currents. And if you manage to lengthen the boat hull by 1 -1.2 m, then I advise you to do so.

It's not difficult, move the transom back 1-2 spaces. You will not only increase the useful volume of the boat hull, but also reduce the share of wave resistance. At the same time, due to the increase in size and weight, the speed of the boat will not decrease. It is not recommended to install a motor more powerful than 50 hp on a boat that you make yourself. There won't be a big increase in speed, but fuel consumption will increase significantly. And the boat will sail with a large trim to the stern. In order for the speed to be higher, other contours of the stern of the boat are needed. An important part of the hull is the fin, which is attached to the keel. The fin gives stability to the boat in strong side winds.

And it protects the steering wheel from damage if you run aground. If you want to simplify the design of the steering wheel, then place it on the transom. Then you will not need a helmport device with an oil seal, and direct cable wiring will become easier. Good stability and high freeboard allow the boat to withstand waves of up to 3 points. Do you want to make your boat flood-proof? Make the cockpit platform watertight, and provide 150mm high coamings in the engine hatch opening and cutouts in the door bulkheads. Since the cockpit platform is higher than the waterline, install drain scuppers to remove water that enters the cockpit overboard.

The engine installed in the cockpit is very easy to service, just open the hood. Separate the fuel tanks from the engine using longitudinal bulkheads. The compartments where the tanks are located must have good ventilation. To make it more convenient to get to the tanks, make removable sheets over them, which are attached with screws, but without glue; there should be a sealing gasket for sealing. Place the exhaust pipe on the starboard side, or better yet, make a hole in the transom by running the exhaust pipe along the right cheekbone to the coma. The cabin in the stern has a height of 1.25 m, but this is quite enough since its purpose is to serve as a sleeping place. If you are on a boat with your family, provide it to the children. The salon is the brightest and highest room, about 2 meters.

On the left is the galley and control station of the boat, which you assembled with your own hands. On the right there is a table, which it is advisable to make removable, which will free up sleeping space for two people. The double bow cockpit is separated from the salon by double partitions. Between them there is a toilet and a wardrobe. The cockpit has a height of 1.6 m. Make a hatch in the roof of the cabin for ventilation and work with towing and mooring ends, which are attached to the bow cleat.

The boat's hull is covered with waterproof plywood - bakelized, 7mm thick, or aircraft-grade, 8-10mm thick. The boards will also be used for sheathing a boat that you make yourself; there are two options here - to sheathe it with grooved connecting slats, where from the inside all the grooves are blocked by slats that are embedded in the frames and bulkheads. The thickness of the boards is 12-15 mm; they are glued together with the edges of the groove slats. The distance between the frames is the same as when sheathing with plywood - equal to 630 mm. Except for the stern, since the sleeping cabin bulkhead is installed between frames 9 and 10, so they do not coincide with the theoretical ones. Groove batten sheathing is strong, lightweight and waterproof.

Option number two is diagonal double cladding with planks 7-8 mm thick. You can use short planks, unlike the first option. Select short boards without knots or other defects. Fit and secure at a 45 degree angle from the keel and bilge stringers to the bottom and from the bilge stringers and fender to the sides. After installing the first layer of sheathing, plank the outside and lay a thin layer of fabric over the paint to seal it. And cover it with a second layer of planks, but at an angle of 90 degrees to the planks of the first covering. Rivet the strips of both layers together. Careful protection of the ends of the keel strips and stringers from moisture is necessary. And installation is very labor-intensive. To ensure the rigidity of the skin, install bottom and side stringers, which divide the skin panels into sections of equal width.

Important! Before you start making frame frames and other parts, work out the installation of exactly the engine you will install. To do this, you can draw a longitudinal section of the boat’s stern on a scale of 1:5 or in full size and put a tracing paper there with the dimensions of the engine and reverse device, also on a scale of 1:5 or in full size. Make sure the propeller shaft line is acceptable. The position of the aft end of the shaft is the starting point. Its location is where the propeller shaft disk is located. Vins have a diameter of 400 – 420 mm.

The engine tilt angle is no more than 12 degrees, which ensures normal operation of the carburetor and lubrication system. Then, on the same scale, draw 2-3 cross sections of the body. This is necessary to clarify the location of the engine relative to the hull and to clarify the required height of the longitudinal foundation beams and how they are spaced from the DP (indicated “A” on the frame drawings). Typically, the engine is secured to the foundation using traverses - these are transverse steel beams. This installs the engine as low as possible and allows you to maintain the required height of the longitudinal engine support bars. The under-engine beams must be securely attached to the longitudinal connections - stringers, which carry the load from the engine to the frames and the rigid bulkhead. Otherwise, when the engine operates for a long time, the bottom structure will become loose. Also, a strong connection with the stringers will ensure alignment of the propeller shaft line under different loads.

General view of the boat Sivuch 1 – outboard ladder: 2 – mooring cleat: 3 – tubular handrail for fencing: 4 – flashlight for distinctive light: 5 – wooden handrail: 6 – porthole on the starboard side: 7 – stack for the masthead light: 8 – porthole for the toilet: 9 – ventilation head: 10 – emergency hatch: 11 – bow railing: 12 – anchor rope roller: 13 – bale strip: 14 round porthole: 15 – porthole for the front wall of the wheelhouse: 16 – neck for filling fuel tanks; 17 – engine casing: 18 – locker – seat: 19 – cockpit: 20 – enclosure from the sleeping cabin; 21 – sliding hatch cover 22 – life ring: 23 – platform for mooring and swimming

Boat layout: 1 – steering device: 2 – tiller compartment: 3 – sleeping cabin: 4 – sliding hatch: 5 – berth enclosure in the cockpit: 6 – cockpit: 7 – engine hood: 8 – salon: 9 – dish shelf: 10 – folding seat for the driver: 11 – handle for driving the throttle: 12 – reverse control handle: 13 – cabinet door: 14 – bow cockpit: 15 – folding hatch: 16 – shelf: 17 – forepeak: 18 – locker: 19 - payol board 20 mm: 20 - driver's footrest: 21 - cupboard for provisions: 22 - space for a trash can: 23 - cupboard for provisions and dishes: 24 - engine: 25 - stern tube: 26 - seat: 27 - double berth: 28 – fuel tank: 29 – gas stove: 30 – sink: 31 – shelf for navigation: 32 – table for maps: 33 – net for personal belongings: 34 – bunk: 35 – shelf in the forepeak: 36 – toilet pumped with sea water: 37 – sofa: 38 – table: 39 – battery: 40 – chest of drawers: 41 – locker: 42 – painting: 43 – door to the cabin: 44 – for dishes: 45 – ladder: 46 – niche for mooring ends and fenders: 47 – door to the salon: 48 – porthole: 49 – folding seat: 50 – removable flooring over the tank: 51 – engine compartment; 52 – porthole: 53 – forepeak door: 54 – door: 55 – driver’s seat, partition: 56 – helm: 57 – porthole: 58 – porthole: 59 – back of the sofa: 60 – niche for dishes: 61 – shelf for clothes: 62 – wardrobe: 63 – door to the toilet: 64 – porthole: 65 – washbasin: 66 – porthole: 67 – additional portholes.

Longitudinal section of the boat Sivuch 1 - deckhouse coaming made of 8 mm thick plywood: 2 - deckhouse roof 6 mm thick plywood: 3 - internal lining for the cockpit 4 mm thick plywood: 4 - seat on the enclosure from the sleeping cabin 6 mm thick plywood: 5 - layouts for oak coaming 25 x 12: 6 – strapping for coaming 15 x 25: 7 – stand for coaming 25 x30: 8 – Carling tube 25 x 50: 9 – beam for cutting 22 x 30: 10 – plexiglass 6-8 mm thick : 11 – post 25 x 30: 12 – rib to increase rigidity 25 x 60: 13 – carlengs 25 mm thick: 14 – oak coaming lining 8 x 90: 15 – DP post 50 x 35: 16 – side stringer 20 x 60: 17 – side sheathing made of plywood 8 mm thick: 18 – fender: 19 – shelf made of plywood 6 mm thick: 20 – stem: 21 – glued from slats 6 x 80 buttons: 22 – bilge stringer 20 x 60: 23 – keel 40 x 180 : 24 - bottom plating made of plywood 8-10 mm thick: 25 - foundation for the engine stringer 50 mm thick: 26 - beam for the foundation 50 mm thick: 27 - fin assembled from beams 75 x75: 28 - deadwood pipe: 29 - berth wall made of plywood 6 mm thick: 30 – bracket mounting pad 6 mm thick: 31 – starknitsa-helmport: 32 – filler – cushion for various things: 33 – deckhouse bimps 25 x 30: 34 – deckhouse coaming, 25X60: 35 – fender beam 30 x60: 36 – deck stringer 24x40: 37 – beams 22X50: 38 – midships, 180X28: 39 – bottom stringer 20x60: 41 – platform decking made of plywood 8 mm thick: 42 – plywood floor on both sides 6 mm thick: 43 – sheathing bottoms made of grooved slats 14 mm thick: 44 - grooved slats 12x35: 45 - floortimbers 22x70: 46 - plywood bracket 6mm thick: 47 - bookcase filler: 48 - toptimbers 22x70: 49 - side cladding made of boards: 50 - collar made of oak or ash: 51 – decking made of plywood 9 mm thick: 52 – decorative strip 25x30: 53 – shelf 25 mm thick: 54 – glazing bead 20x20:55 – handrail made of blank 28x65: 56 – oak trim 16x35: 57 – stainless steel strip 2.5x25: 58 - fiberglass on epoxy resin: 59 - oak bead 20x20: 60 - coaming trim 25x30: 61 - layout 8x40: 62 - bulkhead sp. - block 30x30: 70 – hatch coaming for the engine compartment: 71 – bulkhead for the engine compartment: 72 – rack 20x25 for the bulkhead: 73 – block 35x69 for the door frame: 74 – floor 20 mm thick: 75 – support rail: 76 – panel for bulkheads: 77 – strip for bulkhead: 78 – glazing bead 12x12: 79 – strip 12x12: 80 – beams 20x80: 81 – filler δ=20: 82 – toptimbers and flortimbers 20x70: 83 – flortimbers sp 1, 3 20x80: 84 – bulkhead post in the closet 30x30: 85 – bulkhead decorator 20x70: 86 – frame bulkhead beam 3 20x180: 87 – rack for the latrine bulkhead: 88 – oak layout 8x28: 89 – support rail for the bunk: 90 – bracket for tying the bunks δ=4: 91 - bracket of the end wall of the shelf δ = 6: 9 2 - beam frame 1 25x80: 93 - transom floor 28x150: 94 - stand 28x30: 95 - berth support shelf: 96 - bracket δ = 6: 97 - stand for transom 40x150: 98 - transom lining made of plywood 9 mm thick: 99 – stand 30x50: 100 – parts for transom trim δ = 25

Sections of frames and bulkhead structures

Bulkheads and transom

The stem and keel assembly: 1 - upper part of the stem: 2 - button: 3 - boat keel: 4 - oak trim 150x15: 5 - lath and oak 50x15

Many residents of modern megacities try to be closer to nature. And some of the most fascinating places are the banks of rivers, lakes, and seas. But the most romantic, of course, is an evening spent with your significant other, slowly sailing past picturesque landscapes.

However, here the question arises: where to get a vehicle to spend the evening in comfort and silence, alone with each other. Buying your own boat can put a strain on your budget. Therefore, if you want to save money, read this article about how to make a boat with your own hands.

First, think everything over carefully: prepare a detailed drawing of a plywood boat with all the features. Pay special attention to details, proportions, calculations - everything should fit together well. Otherwise, all sorts of breakdowns are inevitable.

Photographs of boats (including those made by yourself) often show damaged models, most often due to errors in calculations.

Materials

Now start preparing your materials. Choose the best quality possible. Inspect each board very carefully and try to avoid any with cracks or other visible defects.

Describe each of them at an angle of 45 ° - this will be the bow of the future product. Press the parts of the structure as tightly as possible to each other so that there are no cracks or gaps. Soak in several layers of antiseptic.

Nose

The base for the nose must be made from a triangular block. It should be about one and a half times wider than the sides of the boat. It also needs to be covered with an antiseptic layer. This will help protect the boat from all kinds of pests and extend its service life.

Tailgate

Make it from very wide boards. Be sure to leave some extra space at the bottom and top.

Assembly

Now that the base is ready, you should begin the final assembly of the structure. Particular attention must be paid to the correct shape of the boat. To do this, first install the spacer and bend the sides on the sides. For this you may need a rope and a couple of helpers.

So, now the most time-consuming part is adjusting it to the desired size and shape. This can take a long time. But, little by little, you will achieve the desired result. Now it’s time to secure the sides and cut off the excess.

Seats

Now all that remains are the finishing touches - the seats and exterior trim. During work, it is worth making holes in the boards in advance. This will help prevent cracks from appearing in the future.

Exterior finishing

The finishing touches will be covering the homemade boat with an antiseptic coating and paint.

Anchor

In addition, it will be very useful to make an anchor for the boat. It will help keep your homemade boat in place even in strong winds. This can be very useful if you like to go fishing.

Anchor cat

One of the best models for a homemade watercraft is a grapple anchor. It has a fairly high level of reliability. To strengthen the structure and reduce the risk of damage, secure the device to the stem.

For fastening, you can use cotter pins made of copper plates. The paws are attached using a hinge mechanism, which increases the efficiency of their use.

In addition, for more convenient transportation, you will need to make wheels for the PVC boat with your own hands. It's not very difficult.

Manufacturing

Many people probably have a lot of unnecessary materials in their garage that are ideal as material for making wheels. You can make them from several pipes and fasten them with metal fasteners. Or you can use a ready-made design.

Repair

For boats that you have built, your best option is to do the repair work yourself. You should first inspect the boat, find the cause (hole, etc.) and be sure to correct the existing defect.

You can repair the hole with pieces of boards, after degreasing the surface and gluing a new piece of wood. If the problem is more serious, then it would be best to contact a specialist who can carry out professional repair work.

Thus, now you know how to make a boat yourself and repair it at home.

DIY boat photo

Just recently, homemade plywood boats were at the peak of popularity. Currently, quite a large number of various techniques for processing plywood have appeared. But since the watercraft in question plans to be small in size, nothing complicated will be needed to create it.

The affordable cost of materials, mobility and simplicity of design are the undeniable advantages of a homemade plywood boat.

Main works

The main material needed is plywood. It makes no sense to list all the advantages of plywood sheets. It should just be noted that FSF sheets of different thicknesses (from 5 to 15 mm) are needed for the manufacture of individual parts. This moisture-resistant material will be processed several times during work. It is important to pay attention to the fact that the plywood is of high quality: it does not have cracks, all kinds of knots, and various delaminations. The reliability of your boat or boat, including your safety, depends on this.

To make a boat with your own hands, you need to prepare sheets of high-quality plywood of different thicknesses.

Pro tip: the larger the sheet, the more convenient, faster and easier it is to work with.

Also in the process, in addition to plywood, you will need:

Wood. Necessary for the design of internal struts, sides and seats. The choice should be made on edged planed boards. As a rule, lighter types of wood are suitable for this.
Suture material. Necessary for fastening the cladding parts into one whole. A thin wire, a plastic clamp or a nylon line (thicker) can help with this.
Glue. It is necessary to ensure that the seams have proper tightness. In the age of progressive technologies, more and more craftsmen prefer polymer resins.

This list can be continued, but if we stop at the essentials, then we can supplement it with various varnishes and impregnations that serve to prevent swelling and rotting. To cover the seams you will need fiberglass or its equivalent - fiberglass. And don't forget about beauty. Paint will help you with this.

If we talk about choosing a tool, the list can be considered almost standard:

saw for working with wood:
jigsaw/jigsaw, set of blades of various sizes;
grinding machine;
hammer, chisel, pliers, etc.;
various brushes: varnishing, impregnating, for painting material (plywood).

It’s difficult to give advice on choosing a model. After all, each master has his own preferences. You can take medium sizes:

The length of the average swimming structure will be 3.5 m.
Width – 1.35 m. This is quite enough for a boat/boat.
Side height – 50 cm.

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Cutting, making parts

All markings are made on plywood sheets, after which the material is cut along it. For this you will need an electric jigsaw. Do not attempt to cut plywood with other tools. Otherwise, it will result in poor cut lines and chipped material.

The tailgate and frames are glued to the required thickness and strength.

At the beginning of assembling the boat with your own hands, you need to make calculations, and then mark and cut the plywood with a jigsaw.

If it is still a boat or motor boat, then the transom must be additionally covered with fiberglass and reinforced. A hardwood board will help with this. To increase strength, some connections can be further reinforced with self-tapping screws.

Professional advice: if you still decide to do the design yourself, do not make a mistake with the calculations of the carrying capacity, otherwise later you will only be able to boast of a decorative “vessel”.

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Before assembling the boat, all elements must be processed with a plane, or better yet, with an electric plane. Next, you need to drill holes, which will subsequently help “sew” the body together.

When assembling all the elements of the boat together, you must carefully ensure that the dimensions of the parts match.

A transom needs to be installed. Goats will help with this. After this, you can begin to attach the bottom and sides. They need to be brought together on the nose. Sheathing material and parts made from it are attached in 2 ways. This is either seam material or glue. In this case, you need to join the edges of the plywood with your own hands at a certain angle.

Always ensure that the resulting parts match in size. Because to eliminate the resulting gap you will have to disassemble everything and trim the frames.

Frames are peculiar ribs that give rigidity to the craft. They can be cut from 6 mm thick plywood. You will need 4 of them, which are attached at intervals of 80 cm. Another important detail is the fender, located along the side line. It can run along both the outer and inner edges of the structure.

If there are clamps available, that's very good. It will be easier to work if you use them at least at the control points, pressing the fender beam. Binders are very useful in this case if you use them between clamps.

The frame is sewn in next. You can experiment and make it not solid, but from small fragments of the remaining plywood, forming a hole in the middle.

Covering it with a deck creates a small enclosed space that you can use comfortably. For example, storing things there. The deck is also made from leftover plywood. Specific sizes are not indicated, as this is an optional condition.

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a basic necessity, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boatmen make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small vessels are not classified as goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how to make a boat with your own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is clear: yes, and much simpler than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made away from the water without a boathouse or slipway, in any room of suitable size. And how - there is this article about this.

In the preparation of materials for this publication, the books “300 tips on boats, boats and motors” were of great help. Compiled and scientific editor G. M. Novak L. Shipbuilding 1974, “Boats, boats and motors in questions and answers” Handbook ed. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and “Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of ships for amateur construction” L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses deep gratitude to the authors of these informative manuals. Further in the hints for the illustrations they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational issues

The reader probably already has some questions: is it really that simple? Build it and float? With your wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a wake on your rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

A boat just for yourself, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for the materials used in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A small body of water is considered to be a body of water in which the distance from the shore is possible no more than 500 m, and the boat is only for one person;
A boat for yourself, a navigable body of water of any size - additionally a certificate of the right to operate a small boat (analogous to a license for motor transport) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by local transport (water) inspection authorities. On board the boat, its registration number must be indicated in the prescribed form;
The same as in paragraphs. 1 and 2, the boat can have free passengers - except for the documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
Everything is the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - additionally a license for the right to transport passengers or cargo by water;
Everything according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing boat or sail-motor boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman’s certificate or other certificate for the right to operate a sailing vessel;
The boat was made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to produce small watercraft.

It must be said that on non-navigable water bodies, violations under paragraphs. 1-3 are widespread, and in sparsely populated areas - endemic. The water inspection has neither the legal nor the organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or criminal prosecution begins only after the consequences of the accident.

What's a yes and a no?

There are countless designs of small vessels, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype need to be guided by the following. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

The boat must be built according to a proven design and/or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, spacious in weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given sailing conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in a river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
The boat must be light enough so that the owner can pull it ashore or launch it alone, and load it for transportation with an adult and moderately developed assistant;
The technology for building a boat should not include operations that require special qualifications or production equipment, but should forgive the mistakes of a beginner and the replacement of standard materials and manufacturing methods available in the given circumstances;
It is desirable that the boat can move well and stay on the wave with oars, under a motor and sail - to save fuel and have a complete beneficial rest;
The costs of building a boat should be minimal;
If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meets the requirements for cartop vessels, i.e. allowed transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car.

Based on all the qualities, in addition to the price of materials, the best choice for your first vessel would be a plywood boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be the same number of times heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Taking into account all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

All-metal welded and riveted boats.
Planing ships.
Small pleasure catamarans.
Boats made of foam plastic, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and rectangular planks, etc. exotic.
Inflatable boat.

The reasons for this “truncation” are as follows. All-metal homemade vessels are not inspected or registered by transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in makeshift conditions.

Building a speedboat is not for a beginner. The standard dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take it on after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, I must say, with some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a cartop boat that goes on planing on a small wave with an engine of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade planing boat and its testing

A small catamaran, let the reader know, is easier to build than a boat of equal capacity, and the restrictions on the choice of materials for it are softer; for example, polystyrene foam can be widely used. On the catamaran bridge (the platform connecting the float hulls) you can stand, walk, tumble as you please, you can put up a tent there and even cook a barbecue. However, a catamaran is not a boat and the issue of homemade catamarans requires separate consideration.

Exotic boats made from scrap materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull boat made of foam plastic will turn out to be either something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a fenced “paddling pool”, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by current or wind.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “rubber” boat on a navigable body of water, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection turns a blind eye to it. However, this in no way applies to homemade inflatable boats.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of a simple inflatable boat (see Fig.) to be convinced: properly gluing its seams in artisanal conditions is much more difficult than building a more spacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost much more than the best plywood and epoxy glue.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) glue safety bulkheads into the cylinder. A homemade “elastic band” will be single-cylinder: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not wearing a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the pond is very overgrown - you will only have to mentally take stock of your life. For its end is near.

Note: If you absolutely want to glue your boat, not build it, then it’s better to make it from... scraps of water pipes. Such a boat cannot be blown away and hidden in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat from PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: example of a homemade boat made from PVC pipes

Which one should I do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder/navigator can navigate this diversity. For example, boats such as a canoe (item 1 in the figure), kayak, canoes or domestic boats are very fast, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, managing them requires not just experience, but great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top ranking among small boats. In addition, such boats with a rigid skin are technologically complex, because their contours are double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and can be driven by a green newbie. The twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well able to ride waves when fully loaded, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a recessed transom, it is capable of traveling quite quickly, up to 20 km/h or more, under a fairly powerful engine in transitional (semi-planing) conditions. ) mode. But, as we see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to move the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The Russian tuzik pleasure-fishing boat (item 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghi tuzik boat, see below) is light, but again with double-curvature contours. The same applies to the sea sailing boat, pos. 5, although under sail she stays steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Bend once!

So, we have decided on one more requirement for a homemade plywood boat: its contours must be single curvature, i.e. The surfaces forming the body must be curved planes. For small, quiet inland waters, the optimal choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. Scythians in such conditions have proven themselves to be the most reliable ships. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, and lightweight: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the skiffs handle well in currents and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: Contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! In rough weather, the skiff, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In slightly more difficult sailing conditions, with waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, dinghies can be easily recognized by the bow transom-forestpigel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter allows the dinghi to ascend the wave more easily, and the forespire makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghi almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghi is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places remote from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghi on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a passenger car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, a dinghy is even simpler than a skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) simply on the floor of an apartment.

The sailing dinghy (item 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and is therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. Once you have learned how to control one, you can safely move on to the tiller/wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, “Goldfish” dinghies were widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas you can often find seaworthy, sharp-nosed dingas. Outwardly, they look like a fofan compressed along its length (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their hull are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespigel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know big water and want to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be a dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and continue to catch fish with them 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of the dory are phenomenal: there are many cases where large, reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and the dory then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing and sailing (pos. 9). To drive a bank dory, you need to be a thoroughly salted sailor since childhood, because... their static stability is low. A sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of how a vessel moves under sail can learn to sail it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Equipping a boat with a motor well is, of course, more difficult than strengthening the transom for the motor (see below), but the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and repairing the motor on the water will be possible without fear of drowning a part or tool.

Basic truths

To make a boat correctly, you need to choose a technically competent design suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Sales rate

The performance of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the ship increases rapidly, see figure:

In this case, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The engine goes into “fuel guzzling” mode, at the same time quickly burning out its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not capable of pulling the ship to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by installing an overly powerful motor on it. You will only make sailing more dangerous and waste your money on fuel. If the boat design does not indicate the recommended motor power, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Moving at a value of Fr that is too high for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to slide back from the bow wave and bury its stern in the water. If, frightened by a wave rising in front of the bow, you sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern by the next wave coming in: once formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The energy consumption of the ship's propulsion for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves generated. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability are reduced. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its formation along the frames (see below) should be as flat as possible. Thirdly, with overlapping skin (see items 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent performance of the Viking warships, drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, the sheathing is technologically complex, susceptible to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (while stationary) and dynamic while underway. The stability of the vessel is determined by the interaction of the capsizing moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the vessel.

The amount of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see figure). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with a sharp roll, i.e. overly stable. With a continuous increase in the roll angle Θ, the metacenter first “runs away” upward from the center of gravity and then moves back. When M is below G, the capsizing moment will exceed the righting moment and the ship will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the angle of decline. The critical list for undecked ships will be that at which the ship draws broadside. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

Stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small ships, this is, on the one hand, bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat sails with a critical list, then the list of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barque is almost invisible. When in the old days captains of sailing ships, trying to escape from a storm, ordered to “set sails as long as the masts can bear,” they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable when parked, to capsize while moving, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns by shifting the rudder. The ship turns the oncoming flow of water slanting towards its bow, and the rudder only helps it to stand under it, see fig. on right. There, however, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually a projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). From here there is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on the rudder feather being too small. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of the hull amidships, i.e. across at the widest part. Check and, if it does, then either you did something wrong, or you chose an unimportant project.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CG and C already horizontally. In a perfectly controlled ship without heeling, the CG is located exactly above C, which is what designers strive for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because... The ship's controllability decreases, which increases the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general this is correct. For diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under an oblique sail, see Fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CP and the CB are greatly spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the design of the boat does not provide for sailing equipment, do not install a “homemade boat”. As a last resort and under completely favorable circumstances, you can construct an emergency sprint sail from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the engine died, it’s a long way to the shore, you’re exhausted from rowing, but the wind is weak and the waves are insignificant.

The interaction of the thrust forces of the sail and the lateral resistance of a properly designed vessel also creates a moment that tends to bring it towards the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take the wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the central steering system, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will begin to drift towards the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to trouble.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the central axis shift. If the CPU ends up behind the central station, the ship will begin to fall into the wind (“wants” to become its stern), which threatens disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: do not experiment with sails without proper knowledge of seamanship! You risk making an “overkill turn” in light winds on calm water!

So that a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sails can carry sailing rigs, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but no centerboard drawings, we reject it, ignorant. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sail by stuffing false keels and longitudinal steps from boards on the bottom, incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of the hull). Technically, this is the same as cutting the wings off an airplane or trying to fit them, the tail, and the jet engine onto a bus.

Outlines and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 Fig., and on pos. 2 – the main planes of his theoretical drawing. The midsection plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how the theoretical drawing is constructed. Sectioning with diagonals and constructing fish are used in drawings of fairly large ships, carried out on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On theoretical drawings of small ships, instead of fish, they often give drill lines along the frames, see below.

Just by looking at the theoretical drawing you can estimate at what Froude numbers a given vessel can sail. For example, a boat at pos. 5 – semi-planing. Next you need to check the coincidence of the drawing lines:

The distances from the DP to the overhead line waterlines on the half-latitude projection must coincide with the distances from the DP to the frame lines on the hull projection, respectively. levels from OP. Taking into account the scale, because the body projection required for constructing patterns and frame templates is most often given on an enlarged scale (see item 4).
The distances from the OP to the buttocks must be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of the frames and waterlines on the same cutting plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the ship's performance: using the trapezoidal method, determine the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part along the frames and segments, respectively. lengths are laid out along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. distance between sections along frames. The envelope of segments, the so-called. marching along the frames, should form a semi-contour of some streamlined body.

The formation of a formation along frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water its effect affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship’s hull is only partially immersed in water and therefore excites gravitational waves rather than pressure waves in motion. Therefore, the formation along the frames should look like half of not a drop, but an ogive-shaped body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the line along the frames, the more efficient the ship will be, and a wide line indicates its good handling. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk at significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good ability to ride waves, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: In addition to the frames, the true contour of the inclined transom is built according to the theoretical drawing, see figure:

Materials

Wood and plywood

Basic construction materials for a boat require some pre-processing. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be generously saturated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. It won't be oily, it won't be exposed to air!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several stages with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the wood veneer is as is. Next, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the type and quality of the wood, are three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in Fig. higher. They are different from construction ones!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are glued together in advance into strips of the required length using a miter joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. We can only advise you to rough out the mustache with a plane, and finish it with a grinder or a smooth block wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the fastening is checked next. way:

Cut a strip approx. wide. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because Curvilinear parts will be cut out.
The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere except it.

Stacked boat hulls are assembled using red copper nails (you need to drill holes for them), galvanized or conical screws. Red copper nails are bitten and riveted into washers; galvanized ones are bent. Holes are drilled for the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and fastening tables, see Fig.

Note: Lately, quite a lot of amateurs have been assembling boats using confirmed furniture screws, using the same technological techniques as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchen corners, etc. For now, these boats are floating, but not for long enough to judge their long-term reliability.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about it: they say, I didn’t swim until the fall - it started leaking. The reason is the wax that is used to coat the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. You can’t burn it, the fabric will become fragile! Boil the fiberglass in a clean container for at least half an hour, then allow the container and contents to cool completely, remove the paraffin crust from the surface of the water, and only then remove the fiberglass.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in Fig. Gluing set parts from extruded polystyrene foam EPS is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing with epoxy glue is technologically simple and produces a completely reliable vessel. The staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

Cut out parts without allowance;
The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a width of 1.5-2 mm at the base;
If the bottom is keeled, staple its parts together, place the blank on keel blocks (see below) and sew on the sides. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the trestles, the sides are sewn on;
Align the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see figure above). There is no need to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the putty holes from the staples are a potential source of water leakage;
When the last sizing has hardened, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
Remove the body from the keel blocks (traces), bite the brackets flush from the outside and cover the seams on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass;
They glue into the hull the frames, centerboard well, cans (seats), breshtuk (see below), gunwale, fender beam, etc., which is necessary for the project;
They carry out additional equipment and finishing.

How to make a boat?

Sew

In projects of cartop dinghy and skiff boats, patterns of their parts are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on keel blocks or trestles, see fig. The dry-sewn body is aligned along the contours using templates and temporary mounting spacers. The seams of the sheets, being the most durable, are placed closer to the nose, as it is the most loaded and susceptible to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of greater than sewn capacity with single-curvature contours begins with the manufacture of the stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of sewn boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is uneconomical - too much of the rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane onto which the projections of the theoretical drawing on a scale of 1:1 are transferred. If the contours of the boat are simple and there is little space, only the hull projection can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in Fig. The grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (item a in the next figure), aligned vertically, along the contours, and the keel beam, stem (see below), fender beam and stringers are attached. After this, the body set is closed with a flat strip (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka is, firstly, to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked in somewhere, etc. trim the bottom edges of the floortimbers. Then the skin is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After this, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: Some amateurs, after the fry, are hacking against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the milled set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then there is no need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, and the boats float.

Nose

Forteven is the most loaded and important part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of navigation safety says: if danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on board. Therefore, the manufacture of a boat stem should be taken with full responsibility.

The designs of boat stems are shown in Fig. Waterstop plugs made of solid, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the housing. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false bow is used in cartop boats with a narrow stem.

In rough seas and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads that tend to push the hull apart, so it is reinforced with a bridge insert. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; This is one of the significant reasons that homemade boats last much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motors up to 10-12 hp. is given in Fig. on right. The total thickness of the transom, with reinforcement, is from 40 mm. Possibly more: the mounting clamps on some outboard motors do not converge by less than 50-60 mm.

Unsinkability

A radical way to avoid the serious consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite easy to make an undecked vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the cans and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and stern, you can fence off the corresponding. forepeak and afterpeak and fill them with foam. Volume of unsinkable blocks in cubic meters. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cubic. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons you will need 0.324 cubic meters. m or 324 cu.m. dm foam plastic. It seems like a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such a quantity can be accommodated without any noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a pleasure and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring line and, in case of sailing in the dark, a white bow or masthead (on the mast) all-round visibility navigation light. The latter is often neglected, which is unforgivable in our time: now on sale there are autonomous LED lamps the size of a child’s fist with a built-in solar panel and battery. The anchor from this set deserves special attention.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called anchors “honest pieces of iron,” and no wonder: an anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with grapple anchors, but this is far from the optimal option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are grapple anchors on sale with legs that fold back during a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously unmoor just when it needs to be firmly held on. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit with its bottom on the arm of the anchor sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall and Matrosov anchors and lightweight Trident anchors with increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself; you need cast parts. You can make a Kurbatov welded anchor yourself (see figure), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. If it is impossible or undesirable to weight the anchor with a chain, on rocky soils a weight is lowered to it along a cable on a pin (thin cable or thick fishing line). pig of 2-3 kg.

What if Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the rocks; the pig needs to be lifted before it can be freed. The anchor, which is completely stuck, is released with a strong sharp tug on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with the help of a hammer and pliers.

About securing the anchor

During manufacturing, you need to insert an eye into the butt of the anchor - a steel ring that dangles freely in it. The eye is also supplied with the cud-tack - the attachment point for the anchor cable/chain to the hull of the vessel. Eyelets greatly reduce wear on the cable/chain and the likelihood of sudden breakage.

The chewing tack is attached to the outside of the stem. You need to attach the chewing tack lower, above the waterline. In this case, the boat at anchor will be able to play better on the wave, not bury its nose in the water during waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Examples of projects

There are enough good projects of cartop boats, dinghies and skiffs in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will focus on more spacious boat designs.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the skiff boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the top trunk of a passenger car, are given in Fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and the bottom is small, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, these days the seams between the boards can be caulked with construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will be reduced to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. Drawings of the parts of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, which is also very economical: on a simplified slipway using templates. Under the motor, the transom is strengthened as described above.

Next in Fig. the sailing rig of this boat and drawings of the oars for it are shown. The sail is a rack sail (emphasis on the “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing any theory at all. But – don’t set this sail in a fresh and stronger wind! The CPU of a rack sail is significantly higher, it heels the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats move very easily without oars, therefore, to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades become of great importance.

About the iron day

Skiff boats are sometimes made with a bottom made of galvanized iron. Firstly, such a boat with plywood sides weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. you can move it any way you want alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic water reaction, of which there are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil glue and protective coatings. Homemade boats with a steel bottom have one disadvantage: it is useless to submit them for inspection for the purpose of registration, and they will not be examined.

Dory

The same author also developed a design for a dory sailing boat made of plywood, see figure; According to the table of plaza ordinates, the sheathing is cut, but, see above. In shallow sea waters with a short, steep “angry” wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis Puddle in the Baltic), this boat showed itself better than a sea dinghy or an Azov longboat.

Below in Fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on a slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the kit are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots or defects, because... The wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Figure shows drawings of the dory's sailing rig. Since a dory can be sailed in quite strong winds, provision is made for taking one reef on the sail. Observe the specified dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and central nervous system!